Day 9: Tuesday, October 15th, rainy. Ancient Post Road.
After coming to Dali, except for a shower of rain in the first two mornings and some cloudiness on the day of going to Weishan, the weather has always been sunny. However, I decided to go to Yunnan Station today, but it caught up with the rainy day, and it was intermittent, big and small The rain lasted until late at night, and the dense northern people are not used to it. When browsing, I was limited by the umbrella, and the more nervous thing was that my sister had to drive. Although I had the practice of going to Taihe City, after all, I just slipped on the 214 National Highway for four or five kilometers. Today I have to go to the expressway (G56 Hangrui Line), the one-way distance is more than 60 kilometers, and they are all driven in the mountains.
Seeing that the rain would not stop for a while, and the road was relatively long, I decided to go early and return early. I set off at 9 o'clock and took the 214 National Highway. I went south to the Yangnan Flyover and soon I took the G56 Expressway from Hangzhou to Ruili. When I saw the ETC on the car, I didn't care whether it worked or not, so I went straight to the ETC gate of the toll booth, and it was charged with a "ding" sound. Then I went into the mountains. Although the mountains were neither very high nor very steep, they were endless, and it was raining. From time to time, there were warnings of fog and curves on the roadside. I never knew what was going on ahead.
It wasn't until 29.45 was deducted at the exit (why there is still a zero? The old driver said that he might promote ETC's promotional activities), I didn't feel at ease. After all, I arrived at a non-highway, and those who are not capable can drive slowly. Navigating with a mobile phone all the way, it is so convenient to travel now. From Banqiao Exit to National Highway Hurui Line G320, I don’t know if they are all on the high speed, or people don’t come out in rainy days. In short, there are not many cars, and there is nothing on the roadside. Pedestrians, although the village continues. It’s not too far, about a dozen miles or so (it’s nice to have a car, according to my way of playing in the past, this section of the road can only take three rounds of transportation, but it’s rare to see such a means of transportation now), the road There is a large scenic spot sign on the side, and the Yunnan Post has arrived. It was almost 11 o'clock. We walked this way for nearly two hours. Later, we carefully timed the return journey. It took an hour and a half. Maybe it was because my sister was familiar with the condition of the car and adapted to the road conditions.
During this trip to Dali, there were basically no scheduled routes, and only the far ones were crossed out among the attractions recommended by Ms. S. The only thing added was Yunnan Station, because it existed before there was no Yunnan Province. It was established by Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty. The seat of the county government called "Yunnan County", the "Yunnan Xingzhongshu Province" in the Yuan Dynasty opened the concept of "Yunnan Province", but "Yunnan County" was not used until 1918, during the Republic of China, because the county name was the same as the province. It was renamed "Xiangyun County" (but as early as the early Ming Dynasty, the county seat of "Yunnan County" was moved to the current "Xiangyun County" county seat). What an interesting place, I must go to "Yunnan" this time!
Today, there are no traces of the so-called earliest Yunnan on the land of Yunnan Station, but there are still many remains of a station on the Ancient Tea-Horse Road. story. As early as April 8, 2013, Yunnan.com had an article "Yunnanyi, the earliest ancient town called "Yunnan"": In October 2010, Xiangyun County established the "Yunnanyi Tourist Town Development and Construction Headquarters" and launched "Restore the original appearance of history, tap the core potential, seek the combination of old and new, create high-level scenic spots, convey the message of peace, and create a well-known brand" Yunnan Yi tourism town construction. After nearly two years of construction, the total investment of the project is 15.16 million yuan. The sewage pipe network with a total length of about 1,800 meters on both sides of the ancient post road in Yunnan has been completed and put into use. The facade renovation and restoration project of 154 households on both sides of the ancient post road 147 households have been accepted and completed. The historical and cultural excavation team of the command headquarters has collected and sorted out some historical and physical materials and materials by visiting folk elderly people and consulting relevant historical documents.
The tourist parking lot was repaired quite a bit, but there was only one car parked there. Because of the rush after breakfast and two hours of driving, the first thing to do was to find a toilet, and found that the toilet in the corner of the parking lot was locked. , A boss came out of the same quaint souvenir shop on the side, and said: The visitor center over there is also locked, and there is no one there. Only then did I know that the only car parked was his, and our car was the only one.
The archway has a eaves in the shape of three drops of water, which is very old, but it should be repaired by tourism. The couplet facing you: the caravan bell rings and the waiter from the shop greets you, and the mansion reports and flies to tell the officials to leave in the evening. And the inscription "Tea Horse Ancient Road" and the couplet on the back "Walking east and west, the sky and the ground are all arms, and the south and north go to the front of the saddle and the horse behind the horse to only smell the fragrance of tea", there is no ancient style, it is completely a propaganda slogan. Passing through the archway in the rain, I feel more and more deserted. There are neither people living here nor tourists, which fits the atmosphere of being outdated and abandoned. Some online articles say that there are few people because they have all gone out to work, but when asked People who occasionally go out, they point their fingers and say that the village has moved to the upper side, but they don't understand whether the "upper side" refers to the mountain or a certain direction.
The two sides of the street are refurbished at first glance. The ditch and the steps in front of the shop are not badly done, but unfortunately they are too uniform and lose the sense of patchwork of life itself; The shiny and dazzling "Yinma Stone" is the cross-street building not far away. There is a very narrow staircase on one side. Worker W climbed up but was blocked by a locked door. The door facing the street was also closed tightly. The building, because of its dullness, plunged the town into chaos; fortunately, although it is a flat dam, the streets are curved and have some ups and downs in the mountains after all, which makes people believe that it once existed.
There is an elementary school called "Yunnanyi" next to the building. However, when I entered the archway and asked the first villager I met about the toilet, I was led back to National Highway 320 and entered another gate of Yunnanyi Elementary School. If it is not that the villagers intentionally send people from other places to walk more, or the locals are used to thinking that the main entrance of the primary school is on the road, it can be seen that this ancient post road is no longer important in their minds. The primary school has actually moved away, and now it is the headquarters of the Yunnan Yida Project. There are many plans in the yard, but I asked a young man wearing glasses, and he couldn’t find our current location. It seems that Xiangyun County, Or Dali State has a great appetite for taking advantage of it.
On the Internet, I saw the "Announcement on Bidding for Constructive Detailed Planning and Schematic Design of Yunnan Station "The Source of Yunnan" Cultural Town" published on April 23, 2019, in which the project overview: Xiangyun Yunnan Station "The Source of Yunnan" Cultural Town Located on the south side of National Highway 320, 18 kilometers east of Xiangyun County, Dali Prefecture, Yunnan Province, it has a history of thousands of years. It is mainly composed of Yunnan Post from the main street, key courtyards, former residence of Yang Binglin, Yunnan Post Post Office, Caravan Museum, World War II Traffic History Memorial, White Horse Temple, former Yunnan Post Primary School, farm tool factory, Soviet-style grain store and the newly built area in front of Yunnan Post Archway Composed of machine nests, the planned infrastructure area is 3.5 square kilometers, and the planned area of the concentrated new area is 410 mu. Scope of bidding: "Xiangyun Yunnanyi Town Development Master Plan", "Xiangyun Yunnanyi Town Tourism Planning and Industrial Planning Research", "Yunnanyi Town Core Area Planning Plan", "Xiangyun Yunnanyi Town" that have passed the review, "Xiangyun Yunnanyi Town" Town Feasibility Study Report" and "Xiangyun Yunnanyi Town PPP Project "Two Evaluations and One Case"", deepen and refine the design of the construction of Xiangyun Yunnanyi "Yunnan Origin" cultural town (used to guide various The design and construction of a building and facility project), completed the preparation of the "Xiangyun Yunnan Station "Yunnan Origin" Cultural Town Constructive Detailed Planning", and passed the review of the Xiangyun County Planning Committee.
It is a post road, and there are many shops on both sides of the street in Yunnan Post. The shops look roughly similar. No matter where the door is, the rest of the wall facing the street is a "water counter". I don't know how it is called here, but This is how it is called in the ancient towns along the Jianghuai area. The lower part protrudes from the wall, and the upper part has a window panel. After opening, the counter can be connected inside and outside, which is convenient for buying and selling.
On the whole, the style of Yunnan Post is simple, but if you walk a little further in, it will be outrageous. Even the flower windows in the inner room have been installed on the street, which is very inconsistent with the restrained spirit of the Chinese people.
Like Weishan, I saw many funeral couplets and couplets of the third year of Xiaoxiao. One blue one was actually printed. I was afraid that the people who posted the couplets would not be able to tell the left and right. I also used small words on the top of the couplets. It is also marked 1.6 meters, which is convenient for customers to choose, which I have never seen before. Except for this family, the other couplets, regardless of reds and funerals, ordinary routines, woodcut writing, and casual writing, are all handwritten. Perhaps this paper-printed couplet is a precursor to the overwhelming industrial couplets that will fall into the sky and overwhelming in the future. Bar.