D1-D3 (2012.9.6~9.8), Nanjing-Lhasa, departure from Nanjing at 22:16 on September 6th, take train T164, arrive in Lhasa at 11:00 pm on the 8th, and stay at Balangxue Hotel.
D4 (9.9), Lhasa-Qushui-Langkazi-Gyantse-Shigatse, Xingkai Lake Hotel.
D5 (9.10), Shigatse - Sakya - Lazi - Jilonggou, staying at the North Hotel.
D6 (9.11), Geelong Town - Saga. Suxianghao luxury hotel.
D7 (9.12), Saga - Mapang Yumcuo - Laangcuo - Taqin, live in Taqin.
D8 (9.13), the first day of Taqin tour, stay at Zhire Temple.
D9 (9.14), on the second day of Taqin's turn around the mountain, live in Taqin.
D10 (9.15), Taqin-Zada, live in Eji Family Hotel.
D11 (9.16), Zada - Guge Dynasty - Tuolin Temple - Piyang Ruins - Shiquan River, stay at Hengyuan Hotel.
D12 (9.17), Shiquanhe-Ritu-Pangong Co-Shiquanhe, stay at Hengyuan Hotel.
D13 (9.18), Shiquanhe - Geji - Gaize, live in Gaize.
D14 (9.19), Gaize-Cuoqin-Zari Nanmu Co-Dangre Yum Co-Wenbu South Village, stay at Wanghu Hotel.
D15 (9.20), Wenbu South Village - Dangqiongcuo - Wenbu North Village - Nima, live in Nima.
D16 (9.21), Nima - Serin Co - Nam Co - Damxung, live in Damxung.
D17 (9.22), Dangxiong-Yangbajing-Lhasa, Subalangxue.
D18 (9.23), visit Tibet Museum, Drepung Monastery, Subalang School.
D19 (9.24), stroll around Lhasa, study in Palang.
D20 (9.25), visit Samye Monastery, Changzhu Monastery, Subalang School.
D21-23 (9.26-9.28) take train T166 and depart for Nanjing at 11:30 am
Ngari, Tibet, known as the roof of the world, is the closest place to the sky in the world. Anyone who has a little knowledge of outdoor knowledge knows that Ngari is one of the three uninhabited areas of Lop Nur, Hoh Xil and Qiangtang. Besides, one of the most difficult routes to walk. We chose to take this route, not because of religious beliefs, nor for the challenge of survival in the wild, purely because of the heavenly beauty along the way. A person’s life can last more than 30,000 days at most. If you take 20 days to go to Ali, breathe in the thin air there, and feel her primitive and desolate beauty, it is not in vain to come to this world.
Potala Palace
To Lhasa, the train is definitely a value-for-money choice. Not only can you enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, but you can also adapt to altitude sickness in advance. Of course, there was no scenery outside the car window for more than 30 hours. I had nothing to do but sleep and sleep. After the train passed Golmud, Tibet at 8:30 am on September 8, the scenery along the way began to become more beautiful, and the altitude became higher and higher. The high altitude sickness hit my body unconsciously, and my lips began to turn purple due to lack of oxygen. , I had a splitting headache, and I persisted and persisted, because experience told me that without a few days of torture, I couldn't adapt to the plateau.
At 8 o'clock in the evening, the train arrived in Nagqu. When I got off the train, my lips were already dark and purple due to lack of oxygen, but Faye, who was traveling with me, seemed to be in good condition.
After two days and two nights of driving, the train finally arrived in Lhasa at 23:00 on the night of the 8th. Because it was delayed for 2 hours, the chartered driver who picked up the station persisted and stayed at the exit, and finally sent us to Balang School Hotel (standard room 100 yuan).
We were supposed to set off the next morning, but because we had to wait for our companions to return, we changed to set off on time at 12:00 noon. Using the time in the morning, we bought 4 bottles of oxygen, a box of biscuits, a box of apples, and a box of cucumbers. , a box of Nongfu mountain spring water, three packs of Shaqima and a can of wet wipes, a total of 222 yuan was spent.
At noon at Zhulanji Maocai Family, we ordered Chinese cabbage, water spinach, scrambled eggs with tomatoes, and eggplant. The total cost was 80 yuan. After lunch, we set off by car. The road conditions along the way were good, but we could only drive It is different from the interval speed measurement on the inland expressway, because Tibet implements section speed measurement, but it records the time of entry at the previous checkpoint, and checks the arrival time at the next checkpoint. As a result, in the hidden road section in front of the checkpoint, vehicles often stop there to waste time.
Two and a half hours after we set off, we arrived at Gangbala Mountain Pass. The driver stopped the car on his own initiative. We got off the car and went straight to the three mani piles full of khatas and prayer flags. The reason why Tibetans like to hang prayer flags on the mountain pass is because there is wind on the mountain pass, and Buddhist scriptures are usually printed on the prayer flags. When blown by the wind, they make a "squeaky" sound, as if they are reciting scriptures. There is particularity in hanging prayer flags. The five colors of blue, white, red, green and yellow are arranged from top to bottom and cannot be reversed. Because the five colors symbolize five phenomena in nature, representing the sky, auspicious clouds, flames, rivers and the earth respectively.
gambala p.
It didn't take long to drive down from the Gangbala Pass, and we arrived at Yamdrok, one of the three holy lakes in Tibet. Yamdrok Yumco means "coral lake above" in Tibetan because it is shaped like a coral branch. Under the sunshine, Yamdrok Lake has a unique lake color like turquoise, and the surrounding Ningjin Kangsha Snow Peak, which is covered with snow all the year round, makes the scenery look particularly beautiful.
Yanghu Lake is a rich natural "fish bank". It is said that the fish reserves are as high as more than 800 million kilograms. Because many Tibetans practice water burial after death, Tibetans generally do not eat fish, and Han people are not allowed to catch fish from the lake to eat. In addition, Yanghu Lake has a lot of plankton and rich bait, making it a paradise for fish. The plateau naked carp that abounds in the lake can be sold for more than 100 yuan per catty on the black market. If it is fished, it will be a big item of GDP.
For the next hour or so, we walked along the shore of Yanghu Lake. By the time we arrived at the Carola Glacier, it was already around 5 pm.
Because I have been to Carola Glacier before, when I met again, I no longer had the excitement of the first time. To watch the Karola Glacier, you don’t need to go through mountains and rivers like other glaciers. It is just a few hundred meters away from the road. The huge glacier extends from the cloud and mist on the top of the mountain. Whoosh feeling. Due to the influence of dust on the road for many years, the glacier as a whole has a black and white layered shape, but the upper half of the glacier shines like a giant diamond hanging on the mountain wall under the sunlight.
Carola Glacier
Laman Reservoir
After snapping a few photos, we continued to Zongshan Ancient Castle in Gyangze County. Zongshan Castle is well known for its anti-British history. In 1904, when the British army attacked Gyantse, the Tibetans resisted bravely according to the ancient castle, but finally failed due to factors such as backward weapons. In order to commemorate the anti-British heroes a century ago, a Monument to the Heroes of Gyantse Zongshan stands on the square under Zongshan today. The movie "Red River Valley" starring Tranquility was shot based on this historical fact.
Zongshan Castle
The Baiju Temple near Zongshan Ancient Castle is a relatively famous temple in Tibet. During our visit to the ancient castle, we found that there were many believers who turned around. We don’t know whether they turned around the ancient castle or Baiju Temple. .
At around 8 o'clock in the evening, we arrived at today's accommodation, the Xingkai Lake Hotel outside the city of Shigatse (standard room 110 yuan), and had dinner at a home-cooked restaurant near the hotel. We ordered potato shreds, eggplant, Chinese cabbage, and twice-cooked pork. paid 100 yuan. Signed a charter agreement with the driver at night. For this chartered tour, I rented a Toyota off-road vehicle, which costs 1,200 yuan per day. The driver is responsible for fuel costs, parking fees, and road and bridge fees.
The next morning we set off at seven and arrived at Sakya Monastery at 9:30 am. I saw an endless stream of believers turning scriptures outside the walls of the square-shaped temple courtyard. Unlike the Gelugpa monasteries that are more common in Tibetan areas, the Sakya Temple belongs to the Sakya sect. The white color symbolizes the blue color of Vajrapani painted on the temple wall, so the Sakya sect is also commonly known as "Flower Sect".
The Sakya Temple is divided into two temples, the South and the North. The North Temple was built in 1073 A.D., and the South Temple was built in 1268 A.D. according to the wishes of King Phagspa. The South Temple still has many precious cultural relics. Because of the rich and beautiful murals, the Sakya Temple is also known as the "Second Dunhuang".
During the visit, we saw many believers holding a thermos bottle in one hand and a one-yuan or dime bill in the other. They opened the thermos bottle and added ghee in front of each Buddha statue, and took out the banknote to offer the previous one, and bowed down one by one. , pious and pious. The stray dogs here seem to have also been contaminated with Buddha nature, quietly only focusing on observing tourists, and forgetting their nature of foraging.
Sakya Monastery
After leaving Sakya Monastery at 11:00 noon, we rushed to Lazi County and had lunch at a Sichuan restaurant in the county. We ordered scrambled eggs with leeks, kelp pork rib soup, tiger skin green peppers, and vinegared cabbage. The total cost was 80 yuan. After dinner, we passed the Gyatso-la pass, which is also the pass of the Mount Everest National Nature Reserve. A huge signboard of the reserve was erected on the road, and countless prayer flags fluttered in the wind. At the Gyatsola Pass, it is said that when you are lucky, you can see the four peaks of Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse and Makalu that are more than 8,000 meters above sea level, which is unique in the world. landscape.
Not long after passing the Lulu checkpoint, we entered the Mafeng Reserve of the Xixia Gang. After paying the entrance fee of 65 yuan per person and the vehicle toll of 40 yuan, we moved forward, and the scenery became more and more magnificent.
On the way, I also met enthusiastic Tibetans.
Pekutso, located beside the only way to Jilong, the blue lake lies there quietly, contrasting with the surrounding brownish-yellow ground, and the snow-capped Xishapangma Peak in the distance is reflected in the lake, beautiful round Beautiful, this is the largest lake in the Shigatse area.
peku co
Next, the 80-kilometer road to Geelong is extremely bad, and roads are being repaired everywhere. It took us nearly 4 hours to arrive at Geelong at 9:45 in the evening. We checked into the North Hotel (standard room 100 yuan), and dinner was in the hotel building. I spent 50 yuan to buy 2 catties of dumplings.
Geelong is only over 2,000 meters above sea level. The high altitude of the past two days disappeared without a trace, and people were revived with full blood. After getting up the next morning, I first went to Paba Monastery. The morning in Tibet was relatively late, and it didn’t light until after 8 o’clock. When I arrived, the sky was not completely bright, and the Paba Monastery was shrouded in mist. Added a touch of mystery.
Due to Tibet's proximity to India and Nepal, there have been many cultural exchanges in the history of the three places, which are also reflected in the architectural style of temples in Tibetan areas. Although the Paba Temple is relatively small, it is a witness of cultural exchanges between China and Nepal. It is said that it was originally built to enshrine the Buddha statue brought by Princess Chizun of Nepal. It has an obvious Nepalese architectural style. The whole is divided into four floors, which gradually shrink from bottom to top. There is a circle of prayer barrels outside for believers to pray. There are exquisite murals painted on the outer wall, and Buddhist Eight Treasures Map painted on the steps in front of the temple.
After visiting the temple, we returned to the hotel to have breakfast, and then began our trek to Nomura.
Hiking in Nomura is not very strenuous, and it can be seen as a warm-up for our Gang Rinpoche to hike around the mountain. Nomura is located on the top of the mountain, and it is only connected by a simple winding road. It is difficult for ordinary cars to pass through. If you want to appreciate her beautiful scenery, you can only climb the mountain on foot. The winding mountain road is winding, and a little brother we met pointed us to a shortcut, which can save about one-third of the journey. Everyone laughed and laughed along the way, exploring the road along the bushes at the foot of the mountain, and soon entered the dense pine forest. After an hour of easy climbing in the forest, they arrived at the Panshan Road.
After walking along the winding mountain road for about 45 minutes, we finally arrived at Nomura on the top of the mountain. Nomura's Nai means "seat" in Tibetan, which means "the gods consecrate the holy land", and is known as the paradise on earth on the top of the snow mountain. Viewed from a height, Nomura looks like a roc with wings spread. According to legend, the location of the two wings of the Dapeng has excellent Fengshui and is very suitable for living, so the people who moved here later lived on the "wings" on both sides, and gradually formed the current two natural villages. The village on the left hand side of the mountain is relatively high, and the village on the right hand side is located in the flat valley. I visited the village on the left, but due to time constraints, I did not go to the village on the right. The villagers here are very enthusiastic, and they don’t shy away from taking pictures of me at all. On the contrary, they take pictures with me very generously. The children here are very cute. Almost all the younger children have two long snots under their nostrils. His clothes were also stained and his financial situation looked worse.
The top of the mountain here is flat, and there is a relatively large pasture. According to legend, Master Padmasambhava passed by here when he went to Tibet to preach.
The peak of the mountain is shrouded in clouds and mist. Standing in Nomura and looking down the mountain, it is also covered by clouds and fog. Only the part of Nomura where the clouds clear and the fog clears, the sun is shining brightly, which is very magical.
When returning from Nomura, in order not to waste everyone’s time, I ran all the way down the mountain. It took less than 50 minutes in total. Because the downhill section had to brake all the time, it caused the toenails to be congested and necrotic. It took several months later It just grows back. At 12 noon, we went to the Jeep Grand Canyon to play. After driving for about ten minutes, we came to a suspension bridge, which is the entrance of Jeep Grand Canyon. The suspension bridge floats over the canyon, about 60 meters long and 1.5 meters wide, with a vertical drop of about 250 meters from the bridge deck to the bottom of the valley. The bridge is covered with white hada and colorful prayer flags. Walking on the bridge, the body of the bridge is undulating and shaking, and the Jilong Zangbo River rushes and roars between the cliffs at the foot, which makes people feel a little daunting. In the gap between my photos, there is a motorcycle with a child on the back seat speeding past. I don't know how to write the word "fear" at all.
Walking through the suspension bridge, we walked along the winding stone road, and the Jeep Village hidden among the green hills and trees appeared in front of everyone. Jeep Village is located on a gentle mountainside of a green mountain, like a misty fairyland. There are only a dozen families, and the villagers are all of Nepalese origin, and their living customs also maintain the habits of the Nepalese. It is said that Princess Chizun of Nepal married Songtsan Gampo's entourage. Walking in the village, you can see chickens and dogs strolling leisurely from time to time, as well as the curious and lovely smiling faces of children, everything is so harmonious.
Looking up, you can see the blue sky, with white clouds pasted on it like cotton, the wild flowers growing everywhere, fragrant and fresh, and the highland barley hanging ears in the farmland, everything is like an oil painting. After passing through the village, we walked forward for about ten minutes, and the surrounding became quieter and quieter. It is said that we will be in Nepal a few hours further. Time was limited, and we didn't know the way, so we had to go back the same way.
For lunch at the Dayi Hotel in Jilong Town, I ordered fish-flavored eggplant, mapo tofu, sliced fungus meat, and fennel shoots. The total cost was 105 yuan. We set off by car at 2 p.m. Ga, staying at the Xianghao Luxury Hotel (standard room 90) is a standard room, but you can only use the public toilet and there is no place to take a shower. For us who are used to city life, it is still a bit uncomfortable. We ate dinner at a Sichuan restaurant in Chongqing. We ordered shredded potatoes, pork trotters in sour soup, tiger skin peppers, and steamed eggs. The total cost was 110 yuan. After the meal, Faye and I took our toiletries and went to a nearby public bathroom to take a shower , the public bathrooms here are not like the bathhouses in the mainland, where many people bathe in the same big pool, but are separated into individual cubicles to protect the privacy of the guests.
Kaire Waterfall beside Geelong Road
Highland barley
Departed early the next morning and arrived at Payang’s lunch in Mianyang restaurant. I ordered roasted beef with potatoes and sour cabbage. The total cost was 130 yuan. During the meal, the driver Master Li suggested that we go to Taqin today by taking the trail, which can save about 300 yuan. The entrance fee for the sacred mountain and holy lake of RMB 1,000 yuan, we had a hot head at the time and followed his suggestion. In fact, in retrospect, the saved entrance fee was not worth it at all. We didn’t stay in Manasarovar for one night, so we didn’t see the most beautiful holy lake. Lake Manasarovar and Mount Kailash.
Abandoned vehicle under the road
When we arrived in Mapang Yumco, since it was not the best viewing spot, there were no tourists or Tibetans around, only the four of us were running around by the huge lake, and there was no building around.
Manasarovar is the most transparent freshwater lake in China. It means "undefeated, victory" in Tibetan, and it is a "sacred lake" with a strong religious color. Every summer and autumn, a large number of believers from India and Tibetan areas come here with their young and old to make a pilgrimage, bathe in the holy water and let their souls fly.
Manasarovar is the center of the world recognized by Hinduism and Buddhism as famous as Mount Kailash, and it is the place where Xuanzang, an eminent monk of the Tang Dynasty, called it "West Paradise" in "Da Tang Western Regions".
On the shore of the lake, there is a place full of prayer flags, which is the only place that can see that this is a holy lake. It seems that God also saw our disappointment and gave us a small compensation. Suddenly, a drizzle began to fall on the surface of the bright lake. Under the sunshine, the drizzle of Feifei formed a rainbow of seven colors on the surface of the lake. This is a very rare and strange sight.
After spending about an hour by the lake, we headed to Laang Co, a ghost lake adjacent to Manasarovar. Laangcuo means "poisonous black lake" in Tibetan. The water of the lake is dark blue. Because it is a saltwater lake, there are no plants, no cattle and sheep around the lake. It is lifeless and lifeless. Compared with the calm sea in Manasarovar, Laang Co is said to have three feet of waves without wind. We did see this spectacle, the waves of the lake one after another, a bit like the sea.
After leaving Laang Co, we set off for Taqin and arrived at Taqin before the sun set. The accommodation in Taqin is very simple. We lived in a simple wooden house. A room cost 105 yuan a night. We ate dinner at the Laochen Sichuan restaurant. Everyone was extravagant. Paid 240 yuan.
Taqin is a small town developed on the basis of turning mountains. From time to time, foreigners can be seen on the streets in twos and threes. Because of Kailash's sacred status in the world's religious circles, there is an endless stream of tourists who come here to turn mountains every year.
The movie "Kang Rinpoche" some time ago brought the topic of turning mountains, a niche topic circulated in outdoor circles, into the general public's field of vision.
The so-called turning around the mountain is to circle around Kailash Rinpoche, the main peak of the Gangdise Mountains. Gang Rinpoche, which means "mountain of gods" in Tibetan, is a sacred mountain recognized by many religions such as Hinduism, Bonism, Jainism and Tibetan Buddhism. This is the dojo of Sakyamuni, known as the world's center. It is said that turning around Gang Rinpoche once can wash away the sins of a lifetime; turning around the mountain ten times can avoid the pain of going to hell in five hundred reincarnations; turning a hundred times around the mountain can become a Buddha and ascend to heaven in this day. In the year of the horse in the Tibetan calendar, it is said that turning around the mountain once is equal to turning around the mountain ten times in a normal year, so every year of the horse, there will be a peak of turning around the mountain.
Every year from May to October during the mountain-walking season, a large number of believers from India, Nepal, Tibet and other places come here to walk around the mountain. Usually, it takes 55 kilometers on foot to walk around the mountain. Many Tibetans use kowtowing to grow their heads way to complete this journey. In recent years, more and more donkey friends from the mainland have also joined the ranks of turning mountains.
Although the route around the mountain is very desolate and there is almost no supply, but because this route is very mature, we did not hire guides and porters, but carried food and drinking water for two days, and left most of the luggage in Taqin , at 9 o'clock in the morning, I went into battle lightly.
The altitude along the way is between 4600-5700 meters. There are towering snow-capped mountains, beautiful canyons, simple temples and magical holy sites along the way. The first day’s journey is 22 kilometers. We stop and go, and take pictures as we go. Although I was tired, I felt bearable. I arrived at the Zhire Temple (bed fee: 50) at 7:00 pm. The conditions here were very simple. There was no bathroom, washing water, or electricity supply. I had to eat some dry food with hot water.
Early in the morning of the second day, when I got up, I saw the misty Mount Kailash. Occasionally, there were black and white peaks in the shape of a pyramid with a round crown, and the entire mountain was symmetrical. What we saw was the northern slope of the mountain, and if it was on the southern slope, we could clearly see the Buddhist "Swastika" grid formed by the huge ice trough vertically descending from the peak and a horizontal rock formation. The peculiarity of Gang Rinpoche is that there is almost no snow on the north slope, while the snow on the south slope does not melt all the year round. This strange phenomenon that violates the laws of nature gives Gang Rinpoche a layer of mystery.
Start at 7:50 in the morning and continue to turn around the mountain. The itinerary for this day is overwhelming. The first is the distance. You have to hike 33 kilometers in high altitude areas in one day. The second is that the uphill section is very long, and you have to climb the 5,700-meter Dolma At the Lashan Pass, it was light rain again in the afternoon. After a night of sleep, the physical strength that was finally recovered was exhausted in less than half an hour. The rest of the journey was almost entirely dependent on willpower. It was around 1:00 in the afternoon. On the Mani stone pile at the mountain pass, there were Tibetans in twos and threes braving the drizzle, sitting there cross-legged and reciting scriptures as if no one was there, completely ignoring the surrounding environment. Some people say that if you drop a personal item here, as long as you are pious in your heart, the thing you throw away represents your old soul, which can eliminate all past sins, obtain a brand new soul, and see your past and present lives. I didn't throw any items because I didn't want to create too much garbage for the fragile ecological environment. Standing quietly at the Zhuomala Pass, I can neither see the overlapping past lives nor the endless future. What I see is the eagle lingering above my head, circle after circle.
In the mountain depressions soaked by glaciers, only bare rocks are left, a few small pieces of emerald green water lie there quietly, she is the sacred Tuojicuo. According to legend, in the early years, a woman went down to the lake to drink water due to thirst. As soon as she knelt down, the child in the leather robe fell into the lake and drowned. This may be the origin of Tuojicuo Tibetan meaning Lake of Compassion.
We stepped on pieces of moraine gravel and began to descend the mountain. There are unmelted ice on the road from time to time. It is very difficult to walk. We must be careful, otherwise it is very easy to sprain our feet or slip. Fortunately, I am using a pair of trekking poles , all the way without any danger, when we finally braved the rain and went down to the bottom of the mountain, our trousers were completely wet from the thigh down, and our shoes were filled with rainwater. The upper body was not affected much because he was wearing a jacket.
The next 20 kilometers of mountain road, although there is no big climb, but because the front is too exhausted, it is extremely difficult to walk. In the end, I have no intention of admiring the scenery at all, and the world seems to have become black and white, and my head is completely numb, like a walking dead. The legs could no longer move forward, so I had to force my left leg to drag my right leg, and then, switch, my right leg dragged my left leg to move forward step by step. After walking for 13 hours all day, when I finally saw the rows of lit bungalows in the distance at 9 o'clock in the evening, I couldn't believe it.
Back at the hotel, I was too tired to talk, I found my bed silently and fell down. Never, the arduous victory will not bring too much excitement, right? When you exhaust your last bit of strength, the mood of enjoying victory will quietly disappear.
Someone once asked me why I went around the mountain, but I couldn’t answer, maybe the lyrics in the theme song sung by Pu Shu for "Kang Rinpoche" can answer for me: "Can you let go of your hand completely/Dare you , falling so unhesitatingly/falling into the darkness/falling into the mud/the sea and the sky/let me, a pain that penetrates my heart/take it all away, let me be empty-handed again/only the dying/the real me/he can born."
The next morning we slept until 9:00 a.m., got up and had breakfast, and set off for Zada at 10:00 a.m. Around noon, we passed the Zhedabure Monastery known as "Kang Rinpoche's Collar", also known as the Lianhuasheng Temple. In Tibetan areas, there is a saying that if you don’t go to Zhidabure Monastery, you will go to Kailash Rinpoche for nothing. For those of us who have just visited Kailash Rinpoche, we should hurry up and go for a visit. This place originally belonged to the Nyingma Sect temple, which is small in scale but very famous. When we went, it was almost in ruins. There was not a complete hall on the hillside, and all the halls were being rebuilt. On the contrary, there is a long wall of mani piles, which is tens of meters long. It is made of mani stones engraved with scriptures and covered with yak skulls.
Around the evening, we arrived at the Zada Earth Forest Observation Deck. Zhada soil forest is a very unique plateau landform formed by the erosion of the ancient Great Lakes, lake basins and riverbeds over a long period of time. Within a radius of hundreds of square kilometers, there are various "soil forests" scattered high and low. Against the backdrop of the plateau's psychedelic light and shadow, the mountain patterns are bright and dark, vivid and rich, just like a mythical world. Take a closer look, the way is endless. The unparalleled wonders in the world are like majestic and majestic temples, fortified watchtowers, majestic and towering pagodas, extremely luxurious ancient palaces, simple and majestic European-style castles, and some are like galloping horses with their heads roaring. The heavens, such as religious practice, pious meditation, all phenomena of nature, are innumerable.
There is only one small street in Zada County. We found a mountain restaurant on the street. For lunch and dinner, we ordered sauerkraut soup, fried lotus root slices, fungus meat, green pepper scrambled eggs, etc. It cost 130 yuan in total. Go all the way along the road between the soil and forest, and go to the Eji Family Hotel in Zaburang Village near the Guge Dynasty to stay (60 yuan per person), which is convenient for visiting the Guge Dynasty tomorrow. There are more than a dozen beds in the large room here. There are 5 of us, and we can adjust the bed at will, which feels a bit luxurious.
The ruins of the Guge Dynasty are located on an earthen mountain in the Alizada soil forest in Tibet. The whole ruins are built on the mountain. It can be said that the ruins are a mountain, and the mountain is a ruins. Different from the low soil forest around, the mountain where the site is located is towering and abrupt, standing above the wilderness like a flock of chickens. Except for a few temples such as the Red Hall and the White Hall, there are buildings and caves of the same color as the earth everywhere on the ruins, and most of the houses have collapsed, leaving only ruins standing there sadly. Telling history without words.
Along the winding dirt road all the way up, the Red Temple first comes into view, which is also the only place open to visit among the several temples on the mountain. Stepping over the painted porch, an unpainted wooden door appeared in front of the eyes. The door and the door frame were carved with intricate Buddhist auspicious patterns. The two door panels were divided into six equal parts, embossed with six characters The mantra is different from the Tibetan six-character mantra that is common in Tibetan areas. The six-character mantra here is written in Indian script, which shows that the Guge Dynasty was deeply influenced by foreign cultures such as India.
The main hall is empty, there are no monks in it, and there is no statue of Buddha. Only a well-preserved clay sculpture and painted Buddha head is placed on the ruins in the center of the hall. A ray of light projected from the roof window happens to shine on the Buddha head. , giving a very wonderful feeling. Scaffolding was set up around the corner of the hall, and some workers were repairing the murals on the scaffolding. Although these colorful murals have passed through hundreds of years, they are still colorful and dazzling.
We climbed up along the secret passages. It is said that there are four secret passages dug out of the earthy mountain on the mountain. There are holes in the dark passages for lighting. The accommodation in Guge has a strict hierarchy: the top of the mountain is the royal palace, the mountainside is the residence of dignitaries and nobles, the foot of the mountain is the residence of slaves, and some caves are the places of practice for monks. The palace on the top of the mountain is a small building with one bedroom and one hall. It is empty inside, like a rough house waiting to be renovated. It cannot be compared with the Forbidden City in Beijing, which has thousands of houses. It seems that King Guge is still a clean and diligent government. rulers. The royal palace is built on the top of a high mountain. On the one hand, it is for defense, and on the other hand, it also symbolizes the supreme power of the king.
On the mountainside of the ruins of the Guge Dynasty, there is a stone building site more than ten meters high, which is said to be left over from the invasion of the Ladakh people. In order to conquer the Guge Dynasty, which is easy to defend and difficult to attack, the Ladakh people planned to build a stone building as high as the Guge Dynasty to facilitate the attack. The Dak people beheaded all the Guge people who built the stone building. King Guge, who saw this cruel scene, could not bear the suffering of his people and chose to surrender. So far, the unfinished stone building still stands on the mountainside, forming a sharp contrast with the surrounding earthen buildings.
Go down the ravine in front of the gate of the Guge Dynasty. After walking about 600 meters, you can see a cave on the cliff more than two meters above the ground that can only be bent down by one person. This is the famous corpse cave. . There are three artificially excavated chambers in the cave. It is said that when it was first discovered, there were two or three layers of human bones piled up in the caves that had not completely decomposed. The strange thing is that all the bones have no heads. It is speculated that this is the place where the Ladakhs massacred the Guges. It is a pity that iron gates have been installed in the corpse cave so that no one is allowed to enter casually, which can be regarded as a rare tranquility for these dead souls.
During the heyday of the Guge Dynasty, a crowd of 100,000 people gathered. Its source can be traced back to the regime established by the descendants of the royal family who exiled to the Ngari area after the collapse of the Tubo Dynasty around the tenth century. The direct cause of the demise of the Ge dynasty was that the younger brother of the last king led Ladakh soldiers to invade. As a religious leader, in order to compete with his elder brother for power, the younger brother of the king vigorously promoted Buddhism, built temples to recruit monks, and gathered people, resulting in insufficient domestic financial resources, labor and military resources. , causing the king's dissatisfaction, so the king supported Western missionaries to spread Christianity to win over the people, and at the same time forced the monks to return to secular life. Seeing that his interests had been damaged, the king's brother took the risk and led the Ladakh army to attack the city. The reason why Ladakh is willing to send troops is that on the one hand, it covets the wealth of Guge, and on the other hand, it has formed a relationship with the king of Guge in the past: the king of Ladakh planned to marry the Guge dynasty and let his sister marry Guge. King Ge, who knew that the team to see off his relatives was halfway there, but there was news that King Guge was unwilling to marry.
Standing at the foot of the mountain of the Guge Dynasty, looking at the devastated ruins in front of you, people can't help but sigh how cruel the Ladakh people were back then. Grab a handful of sand on the ruins and hold it in the palm of your hand. Watching the fine sand flow down from between your fingers and be blown into the air by the wind, I really hope that the resentment of the dead Guge people can be as easy as this sand. The wind is gone.
corpse cave
Back in Zada County, I still had lunch at the Shancheng Restaurant that I ate yesterday, and then went to visit the nearby Tuolin Temple. In Tibetan history, Tuolin Monastery plays an important role. The stories of the famous Yixiwo, Atisha, Rinchen Sangpo and other characters are all unfolded in the background of Tuolin Monastery. Synthesizer.
Tuolin, which means "flying in the sky and never falling", the temple is built in imitation of the first temple in Tibet, Samye Temple. There are four tall pagodas and a row of hundreds of hundreds of meters long around the temple. The ruins of the pagodas, the bases of the four tall pagodas are made of layers of white, gray and ocher, with obvious Indian and Nepalese styles.
After coming out of Tuolin Temple, we went to visit the ruins of Piyang Cave. The Piyang and Dongga ruins are the general term for a group of cave ruins. They are located in the adjacent Piyang and Dongga villages. There are nearly a thousand caves of various types. The specific construction time is unknown, and it has a history of more than a thousand years.
The murals in many caves are very beautiful. It is said that during the archaeological excavation of the Piyang site in the 1990s, several very precious Guge silver-eyed Buddha statues were unearthed in the cave. The so-called ancient silver-eyed Buddha statue is that the whole Buddha statue is made of copper, gold and silver alloy, and the eyes are made of special inlaid silver technology. The white eyes and black pupils look bright and good-looking, very expressive. When it comes to Guge Silver Eye, people can't help but think of novels about tomb robbers.
In the evening we arrived at Shiquanhe Town, Ali, and stayed at the Hengyuan Hotel (a total of 300 yuan for two or three people).
The next morning, we went to Pangong Lake. Around noon, when passing through the Xinjiang-Tibet Highway in the Ritu section, a stone public sign stood beside the highway, and this is where the famous Ritu rock paintings are located. The most conspicuous place on the rock wall depicts the six-character mantra in Tibetan. This sentence, which can be seen everywhere in Tibetan areas, does not have a long history at first glance, but if you look carefully, you can still find many simple and simple depictions. Most of them are hunting scenes. Looking at these clumsy rock paintings seems to open the door of communication with the ancients, which can quite arouse the inner nostalgia for the past.
The surface of Bangong Lake does not look open, and due to the angle of sunlight, the lake water does not look very clear. There are wild ducks in twos and threes on the lake, and I have not seen the spectacular scene of thousands of birds flying together as advertised on the Internet. On the road by the lake, the car drove by and the dust was flying immediately, so it didn't give us a good impression.
At lunch in Ritu County, we ordered Kung Pao chicken, casserole, homemade tofu, etc., which cost a total of 110 yuan. After the meal, we went to visit the ruins of Rituzong not far away. It is 10 kilometers away from Ritu County. Zongshan Mountain is majestic. The entire building is built against the mountain. Although it has become a broken wall, it is very spectacular. The foot of the mountain is the fertile Ritu Plateau. According to folklore, it was originally the residence of Xianba, the general of King Gesar, and later the seat of the Rituzong government. The ruins have been destroyed in a disastrous manner, and no complete building can be found.
After returning to Shiquanhe in the evening, we went to the store to buy the supplies needed for the Great Northern Line, and then went to bed early to recharge our batteries for tomorrow's arduous journey on the Great Northern Line.
Early the next morning, we finally embarked on the journey of the Great Northern Line, which will encounter beautiful scenery again and again. Not long after driving out of the Shiquan River, you can see Tibetan antelopes looking for food from time to time on the side of the road. In a wetland, we also saw a rare red-crowned crane. Wild red-crowned cranes are very vigilant. Since we don’t have a telephoto lens, we want to get closer and take a few photos. Just move forward and the red-crowned crane will fly. , and then fell not far away, always keeping a certain distance from us.
Throughout the morning, we drove close to the Shiquan River. On the wetland beach of the Shiquan River, there were flocks of cattle and sheep. You can see cattle and sheep everywhere without the wind blowing the grass down.
The lunch I ate at Geji at noon included stir-fried vegetables, steamed eggs, steamed pumpkin, fish-flavored shredded pork, etc. The total cost was 130 yuan.
On the way to Gaize in the afternoon, we saw Tibetan wild donkeys again. They were so close to us that we could ride them.
The wild birds in the several wetlands that we passed by made up for the regret that we did not see water birds in Pangong Tso.
Water is the source of life, and human beings long to have close contact with water. However, the ocean is too far away and the rivers are too fast. Humans and water need an adjacent and still connection point. The lake is undoubtedly the most ideal place. The next Wuma Co and Da Rao Co are not well-known, but the scenery is beautiful. Because they are close to the highway, they gave us the opportunity to touch the water from a distance. Washing your face in this godlike lake can not only wash away the dirt, but also purify your soul.
In the evening we had a good night's sleep in Gaize County, and we set off early the next morning. The scenery of lakes and mountains summed up our itinerary for the day. Ali's scenery is so beautiful that just taking a picture can be made into a postcard.
hole wrong
dawa co
Under the bright sunshine, Zari Nanmu Co is blue and blue, as pure as a fairyland. We climbed up a small steep hill by the lake, and the side by the lake was filled with mani stones.
There is no trace of human activities around the lakeshore, and the scenery is primitive and natural. Since Zarinanmu Co is a saltwater lake, there are almost no animals and plants in the lake, while Tibetan antelopes and Tibetan wild donkeys appear on the lakeshore, forming a sharp contrast.
zari nanmu co
It is often said that "the peerless scenery must be placed in an inaccessible place, and it will never be appreciated without a difficult trek." Our trip to Dangre Yumco just fulfilled the above sentence. Dangreyongcuo is hidden in the depths of the primitive and desolate northern Tibetan plateau. The population density here is only one person in six square kilometers. There are no roads here. People can tell which is the shortcut or the best route, and only the most experienced drivers can sort out the clues.
Our driver is a frequent visitor to the Ngari line, but after starting from Cuoqin that day, he also lost his way. After running for dozens of kilometers in a daze, he still could not find the correct path and had to return to Cuoqin to start again.
From time to time along the way, Tibetan antelopes and Tibetan wild donkeys ran past the car, and some panicked and ran in the wrong direction, running wildly along the route we were advancing, as if they were going to have a speed race with us.
When we arrived at Dangre Yumco Lake, nature gave us a visual feast. Just as the sun was setting, the unpredictable clouds on the upper part of the Dargo Snow Mountain in the distance were dyed bright red, and the rolling snow mountains below the clouds were also illuminated golden red by the sun. Could this be the legendary "Sunshine Golden Mountain" Is it a spectacle?
Before dark, we arrived at Wenbu South Village and checked into the Wanghu Hotel. It was said to be a hotel, but in fact it was just a few bungalows with bunk beds. There was no bathroom, and we couldn’t take a shower. Dinner was boiled vermicelli in clear soup. The housewife gave each person a Poached eggs made us feel very extravagant, because in other people’s guides, we can only eat instant noodles brought by ourselves, dinner and accommodation, and the proprietress charged us a total of 230 yuan.
After getting up the next day, we first went to Wenbu Temple, the Bon religion temple in the village. The temple is not big. There is a mulberry stove at the entrance. On the left is a prayer barrel room. The outer wall is covered with purple paint. Inside are painted prayer barrels more than two meters high. There is a circle of much smaller copper prayer buckets. There are already early-rising Tibetans pushing the prayer buckets to turn the scriptures in a "squeaky" way, which is different from the clockwise rotation of Tibetan Buddhism, the mountains, the lakes, and the Buddha. The pagoda, the native religion of Tibet here, Bon religion, pays attention to turning the scriptures, mountains, lakes and pagodas counterclockwise, one clockwise and one counterclockwise, giving us religious laymen a clear sign to distinguish Tibetan Buddhism and Bon religion.
Standing on the side of the dirt road opposite the temple, you can see Tibetans slowly turning around the pagoda, repairing the courtyard, and working in the fields leisurely. Under the blue sky and white clouds, Dangre Yumco's silky blue lake water is as pure as a fairyland. Coupled with the Dalgo Snow Mountain wearing a white hat by the lake, there is a feeling of "eyes going to heaven", making people feel like they are in the gods garden. Standing in Wenbunan Village and watching Dangre Yumco, people can have the illusion of "facing the sea, spring is warm and flowers are blooming".
When it comes to Dangre Yumco, we have to mention the ancient Zhang Zhung civilization, which is known as the root of Tibetan civilization. We modern people are familiar with Zhuan Shenshan, worshiping the holy lake, kowtow, Salongda, hanging Colorful prayer flags, stacked stone offerings, fire offerings, water offerings, meeting offerings, simmering mulberry, torma, butter flowers, tscha, diamond knots, as well as Tibetan, Tianzhu and Tiaoguozhuang, etc. are also derived from the ancient Zhang Zhung civilization, in addition, they also created the earliest native religion in my country - Yongzhong Bon religion. The demise of Gu Xiangxiong should be attributed to the talented and generous King Songtsen Gampo of Tibet. I don’t know if it was a conspiracy or a coincidence. At the beginning, he married his younger sister Samaga to Li Mixia, the king of Zhangxiong, as his concubine. Not treating her as a treasure, the concubine, who fell out of favor three years later, contacted Songtsan Gambri to join forces, and wiped out Xiangxiong in one fell swoop. Wenbunan Village was migrated from the capital of the nearby Zhangzhung Kingdom, Qiongzong, after the fall of the ancient Xiangxiong Kingdom.
Dangreyongcuo and Dargo Snow Mountain are regarded as sacred mountains and holy lakes by Bon believers, and are regarded as a pair of lovers who depend on each other for life and death. Dangre and Daerguo are ancient Xiangzhug languages, meaning "lake" and "snow mountain", while "Yongcuo" means "jasper-like lake" in Tibetan. In Tibet, not all lakes can be called "Yongcuo". Even Namtso, which is known as one of the three holy lakes, has not been given the title of "Yongcuo". "What a high standard.
Dangreyongcuo is the fourth largest lake in Tibet. It is known as a tear lying on the surface of the blue earth. Someone once joked: There is Dangreyongcuo in Tibet, why go to the Aegean Sea?
After staying leisurely until around noon, we set off for Wenbu North Village on the side of Dangqiongcuo. Dangqiongcuo and Dangreyongcuo were originally a whole, but they were separated after the vicissitudes of life.
The car went around several hills, and from a distance, the village of hundreds of families on the mountainside by the lake bank was Wenbu North Village. The houses of the villagers are next to each other, and the heights are staggered. Every household can be said to be a landscape house, all of which are built facing the beautiful Dangqiongcuo. There was nothing to visit in the village, so we went straight to Dangqiong Temple, which is high in the village.
Tibet is the place with the most dense religious beliefs. As long as there are people, there will be temples. Dangqiong Temple is considered a relatively large temple in Nima County. The outer wall of the main hall is painted crimson as usual, and there are huge prayer barrels on both sides. A temple is a large rotation center, and each prayer wheel is a small rotation center, revolving in spring, summer, autumn and winter. , endlessly shaking dreams, and endlessly turning six-character proverbs.
There are not many tourists in the temple, so the monks are probably lonely and unbearable, and they are very enthusiastic about the rare tourists. We were also allowed to shoot in the temple as an exception. The top of the patio used for lighting is painted with complex and auspicious patterns, and two circles of exquisite Thangkas are hung below. The main hall is surrounded by Buddha statues, and the confession cases in front of the Buddha statues are full of butter lamps and scriptures. There are several circles of tatami mats on the ground in the hall, and monks sitting cross-legged are sitting on them. They either quietly close their eyes to rest, or shake their heads and recite scriptures aloud. They often smile when we take pictures. With a lot of kindness.
Dangqiong Temple is the best place to watch Dangqiongcuo. Looking at Dangqiongcuo through the gap of the temple has a special taste. Under the bright sunshine, the surface of Dangqiongcuo Lake is blue and green, forming a mysterious pattern, which arouses people's rich imagination.
In the afternoon, we arrived in Nima County early and had lunch and dinner in the county. After the meal, we wandered around the county and went to the big market. In the evening, we stayed in the multi-person room in the county. Not cheap at all.
Walking in Ali is known as "making mistakes again and again", because you will encounter different mistakes from time to time. One mistake after another, one color wins another, the same mistake, but with different colors and styles. Not long after we set off from Nima the next morning, we arrived at Daze Co, and then went to Wuru Co and Serin Co.
Da Ze Cuo
Wu Rucuo
Selin Co, which means "devil's lake that shines brightly" in Tibetan, was originally the second largest lake in the Tibetan area after Nam Co. In recent years, due to the continuous increase of the lake, it has surpassed Nam Co to become the largest lake. Legend has it that Selin Co It was the big devil who used to live in Duilongdeqing, west of Lhasa. He greedily devoured tens of thousands of living beings every day, and no one could do anything about his despotic power. On a fine day after a thunderstorm, Master Padmasambhava, who has slain demons all the way, finally found Sering. Under the hot pursuit of Master Padmasambhava, Serin fled to the vast and turbid lake in the south of Ganni Changtang. The master ordered Selin is never allowed to leave the lake, repent piously in the lake, and is not allowed to harm the aquatic people.
The cool breeze blows by the lake, and the distant mountains are like daisy. People can't think of the level of the devil. The sun is shining here, which is very suitable for basking in the sun. Sitting on the sandy beach by the lake, watching the clouds roll and the clouds are relaxing, and the waves take pictures. On the shore, I wish that time would stand still and stay at this moment forever.
After dazed enough by the lake, we continued to set off. We arrived at Namtso before the sky began to darken after passing through Bamtso. Namtso is the highest saltwater lake in the world. "Namtso" is Tibetan, and the Mongolian name of this lake is "Tengri Sea", both of which mean "heavenly lake".
Bangor County
Bam Co
Standing on the wooden viewing platform by the lake, looking at the blue lake water, the whole soul seems to be washed by the pure lake water. As the sun sets, the afterglow shines on the lake, and the sun shines through the clouds and projects on the mountains on the shore of the lake, dyeing several of them golden and red, forming a very peculiar light and shadow effect. People living in the city will never have the chance to see such a beautiful scenery.
We greedily pressed the shutter one after another until the sun completely disappeared on the horizon.
That night, we stayed in Dangxiong County (100 yuan for a standard room). The next morning, when we passed Yangbajing Hot Spring, we decided to go in for a dip. Yangbajing is a very famous hot spring in China. It is located in the valley basin at an altitude of 4,320 meters. It is bordered by the Nyainqentanglha Mountains in the north and Tangshan Mountain in the south. The top of the mountain is covered with snow all the year round. The hot spring ticket is 158 yuan. There are several indoor and outdoor hot spring pools with different temperatures. It is indeed a kind of enjoyment to enjoy the snow-capped mountains in the distance while soaking. When we were in the hot springs, we heard that hot spring boiled eggs are very delicious. We also bought them and tasted them. They are indeed different from ordinary boiled eggs. The egg whites and yolks are very tender.
After coming out of Yangbajing, we picked up Faye who was waiting outside for a hot spring and returned to Lhasa. In the evening, we all got together for the last dinner and said goodbye to each other. From then on, we all divided up our belongings. Some would fly home the next day, and some would continue their journey in Nyingchi...Only I will stay in Lhasa three times alone. day. I'm going to Drepung Monastery to read the debates; I'm going to the Tibet Museum to see the history; I'm going to Shannan to see the first monastery in Tibet where ordained monks become monks—Samye Monastery...
If the Potala Palace is the living room of Lhasa, the Tibet Museum can be regarded as the study of the city. Even if you only stay in this "study" for a moment, your thoughts will penetrate the magnificent time and space, and peep into every glorious moment in the entire history of the development of the Tibetan nation. Located in the southeast corner of Norbulingka, the Tibet Museum is the first museum with modern functions in Tibet. On the central axis of the museum area, there are preface hall, main exhibition hall and cultural relics warehouse in sequence. The overall layout and structure are rigorous, with distinct Tibetan traditional architectural art features. The Tibet Museum has a rich collection of treasures, such as various types of prehistoric cultural relics, statues of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas in various textures and shapes, handwritten Tibetan classics dipped in gold powder, silver powder, coral powder, etc., and colorful thangka paintings. , all kinds of musical instruments, ritual instruments, handicrafts with distinctive ethnic characteristics, pottery with unique styles and so on.
I entered the museum around 11:20 am on the 23rd and left at 13:30 pm, then went to Drepung Monastery.
Drepung Monastery is a monastery of the Gelug Sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Together with Ganden Monastery and Sera Monastery, they are collectively known as the three major monasteries in Lhasa. The entire temple is large in scale, with rows of white buildings covering the hillside, which looks like a huge pile of rice from a distance, hence the name Drepung. Drepung, which means "rice gathering" in Tibetan, symbolizes prosperity, and its full name in Tibetan means "auspicious accumulation of rice ten directions Zunshengzhou". It is the highest-ranking monastery in the Gelug Sect.
The Drepung Monastery is very large and quiet, and it is worth wandering slowly alone. It can always surprise you inadvertently, and it can also provide you with a unique perspective overlooking the city of Lhasa.
On the second day alone, in the morning, a person followed the Tibetans around the Jokhang Temple. If you ask a Han Chinese where the essence of Lhasa is, I am afraid that most people will think of the Potala Palace. If the same question is answered by a Tibetan, the answer must be the Jokhang Temple.
The Jokhang Temple is the most glorious Tubo period building in Tibet. Its Tibetan name is "Juekang", which means "Buddha's house", and a precious statue of Sakyamuni is enshrined in it. Throughout the ages, countless pilgrims have flocked here from all over the world, and gradually formed the Barkhor Street surrounding the Jokhang Temple, and later formed the Linkor Road that surrounded the Barkhor Street. These outlines have become the basic structure of Lhasa today. . According to historical records, Songtsan Gampo built a temple for each of his five wives. He once gave each wife a ring and asked them to put the ring on the place where the temple was to be built. Unexpectedly, Princess Chizun of Nepal threw the ring into the temple. In the lake, after the ring fell into the water, an auspicious white pagoda was formed. Songtsan Gampo immediately mobilized thousands of goats to carry earth and rocks to fill the lake, and built the Jokhang Temple on it.
The main gate of the Jokhang Temple is generally not open. On both sides of the gate stands a pillar of prayer flags several feet high, which is covered with yak skin and wrapped with layers of prayer flags. In the eyes of Tibetans, it is a root The link between God and man. In front of the wall on the right side of the Monument of the Tang-Tibet Alliance, many people kowtow to the head. It is said that every believer will kowtow to 100,000 long heads at least once in his life. The porch was very dark, and the bluestone paved on the ground was already very smooth due to the infiltration of ghee and the repeated polishing of believers when they threw themselves on the ground. There are several Tibetan women sitting under the column, and they are spreading the five grains mixed with pearls, turquoise and other jewels on a small copper gong repeatedly. Things to support the Buddha.
The main hall of the Jokhang Temple is four stories high. The whole building combines the style characteristics of Tibet, Han, Nepal and India. There are several side halls in the main hall. The layout structure reproduces the ideal model of the universe of the mandala mandala in Buddhism. This is the common ancestral hall of all sects in Tibet, enshrining the legendary figures of various sects in the history of Tibetan Buddhism. You may not be a Buddhist when you visit such a place, but you must never lose the piety in your heart.
Walking through the dark and slightly long aisle, after entering the hall, you will be greeted with a strong smell of ghee mixed with the unique smell of Tibetan incense. Near the northeast corner of the hall, there is an unpainted beam and column. It is said that this is the only wooden column that has not been replaced since the Jokhang Temple was built in 1360. I squatted on the ground and observed carefully, and saw that it was covered with deep cracks. Due to the repeated application of ghee and the pious touch of the believers, the surface was fully coated, and the unique luster of wood can be seen even in dim light. There are coins embedded by believers in the wooden cracks, turquoise rings, etc., and many human teeth. In order to be able to come to the Jokhang Temple for pilgrimage, many believers will bring their life savings, step by step from the place where they live, and some even have to walk on the road for more than ten years. When some believers die on the road, their family members will knock out his or her teeth, take them to the Jokhang Temple, and nail them on wooden pillars to fulfill the deceased's unfulfilled wish.
It is said that there are still two life-size Buddha statues of Sakyamuni in the world today, both of which are in Lhasa. Sakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism, opposed idol worship when he was alive, and he did not set up temples to worship images. In order to spread Buddhism widely, believers made three life-size Buddha statues with the face of Sakyamuni when he was the prince before his death. Kamuni personally consecrated it, so in the hearts of Buddhists, seeing the statue is like seeing the Buddha himself. After the death of Sakyamuni, Buddhism gradually declined in India. The king of ancient India sent one of the twelve-year-old gilt-bronze statues of Sakyamuni to China and enshrined it in the White Horse Temple in Luoyang. Later, when Princess Wencheng entered Tibet, in order to compare with the eight-year-old Buddha statue of Sakyamuni brought by Princess Chizun of Nepal, Tang Taizong gave this most precious Buddha statue to Tibet as a dowry and enshrined it in Songtsan Gampo. Inside the Ramoche Temple built for Princess Wencheng.
Jokhang Temple originally enshrined the eight-year-old Buddha statue of Sakyamuni brought by Princess Chizun. When Wu Zetian was in power, there were rumors that the Tang Dynasty would send troops to snatch back the statue of Sakyamuni that was given to Tibet. In order to deceive others, the Tibetans hid the Buddha statue brought by Princess Wencheng of Ramoche Temple in Jokhang Temple, and brought Princess Chizun here. The eight-year-old Buddha statue of Sakyamuni was transferred to the Ramoche Temple, and since then the twelve-year-old Buddha statue has been enshrined in the main hall of the Jokhang Temple by accident.
A row of oil lamps made of pure gold is enshrined in front of the 12-year-old Buddha statue, and the butter inside is burning day and night. This is the place where the golden urn draws lots to determine the reincarnation of the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama. There are as many rare treasures here as grass, and they are filled with the front, back, left, and right sides of the Buddha. It is the ultimate ideal of many Tibetans to dedicate all their belongings to the Buddha. Although I am not a Buddhist believer, standing on this unparalleled In front of the Buddha statue, my heart seemed to be attracted by a huge magnetic field. When I heard that Tibetans regard this place as the center of the world or even the center of the universe, I silently retreated to the last row, leaving the important place for the real believers. The moment I closed my eyes and prayed, I felt like an electric current was being introduced into my body, and the inexplicable emotion was churning in my heart like a tide, and I really wanted to cry.
"Going to Lhasa without going to the Jokhang Temple is equivalent to not having been to Lhasa." These are the words of Nima Tsering, a famous lama in the Jokhang Temple, which resonated with many travelers who left the Jokhang Temple.
On the third day alone, I went to the Jokhang Temple Square in the morning before dawn, and took the bus for the Tibetan pilgrimage to the south of the mountain to go to Changzhu Temple and Samye Temple. Changzhu Temple is located at the southern foot of Gongburi Mountain on the east bank of the Yalong River in the south of Shannan, about two kilometers away from Nedong County, and belongs to the Gelugpa Temple. Built in the period of Songtsan Gampo, it is said that Princess Wencheng once stopped to practice in the temple. Changzhu Temple is one of the first Buddhist temples built during the Tubo period, similar in form to the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa. I didn't go in and visit.
At around 11 noon, the car arrived at Samye Monastery, and we filed in to visit. Sangye Temple, also known as Cunxiang Temple and Boundless Temple, is located in Sangye Town, Zha Nang County, Shannan, Tibet, at the foot of Habu Mountain on the north bank of the Yarlung Zangbo River.
Samye Monastery was built in the 8th century AD during the Tubo Dynasty. It is the first monastery in Tibet where ordained monks became monks, and also the first monastery in Tibet that has the three treasures of Buddha, Dharma and monks. The buildings in the temple are laid out according to the Buddhist cosmology. The central Buddhist hall has three styles: Tibetan, Han, and Indian. Therefore, Samye Temple is also called Sanyang Temple.
The Samye Monastery is composed of 108 halls, and is called the "miniature universe" according to the structural layout of the "big world" of Buddhism.
Overlooking from the air, the thousand-year-old temple looks like a solemn mandala (mandala).
Samye Monastery is modeled on the ancient Indian temple Feifei Temple, and has a large mandala with Tibetan regulations, a scripture hall with Tibetan regulations, Mount Sumeru with Tibetan regulations, four continents, the sun and the moon and other symbolic buildings.
The most distinctive feature of Samye Temple is the Wuzi Hall, which symbolizes Mount Sumeru, the center of the universe. There is a hall on each side of the hall, symbolizing the four continents. The four corners of the hall are rare white, red, green, and black towers, with a total length of 1008 meters. The surrounding wall around the temple symbolizes the iron mountain on the periphery of the world, and there are 1028 small pagodas built on the wall.
In the past, the Tibetan King Trisong Detsan believed in Buddhism and invited two Buddhist masters Jihu and Padmasambhava to Tibet to promote the Dharma. Legend has it that when the temple was first built, Trisong Detsen was eager to know what it would look like after it was completed. Guru Rinpoche created a mirage of the temple from his palm. After seeing it, Trisong Detsen couldn't help exclaiming "Sangye" (meaning "unexpected") .
The Wuzi Hall in the center of the temple is a three-story building that combines Sanskrit, Han and Tibetan. Statues and murals are also painted in their own styles, which is rare in the history of architecture. There are four white, red, green and black pagodas at the four corners of the main hall of Samye Temple. The four pagodas are not only unique in shape, but also elegant in style. They are rare cultural relics.
The White Pagoda, named the Great Bodhi Pagoda, has a style of sound and hearing, and is decorated with eight lions around the pagoda.
The red pagoda, named Falun Pagoda, is in the style of Bodhi, and the body of the pagoda is inlaid with thousands of lotus flowers.
The green pagoda, named Tianjiang Pagoda, is in Tathagata style, decorated with the Hall of Sixteen Gates.
The black pagoda, named Nirvana Pagoda, is in the style of Buddha, decorated with the pagoda such as the Lai Ling Pagoda.
Samye Monastery is like the Bodh Gaya Zhengjue Temple in India, the holy place of Buddha's enlightenment, full of auspicious light.
As long as you can see this temple in person,
It can put an end to all falling into the door of the three evil paths.
If you can circle around the whole temple of Samye Monastery,
Even a butcher can turn for the better.
If we sincerely pray to the Samye Monastery,
In the next life, he can also be reincarnated as a king.
If you have the chance to hear the special legend about the Samye Monastery,
All our sins will be wiped away...
Before leaving Lhasa at noon the next day, Zheng Jun’s singing sounded again: Back to Lhasa/Back to Potala/Back to Lhasa/Back to the Potala Palace/Wash my heart on the Yarlung Zangbo River/Wash my heart on the top of the snow mountain My soul wakes up...Tibet, I really hope you are my dream that never wakes up for thousands of years!
