Wednesday, November 26, 2008 morning cloudy
Yunnan Tourism in 2008 (Travel Notes, 22)
Travel to Lijiang, Yunnan: The location of the summer palace where the chieftains of the Mu family in Lijiang spent the summer - Snow Mountain Yuhu
The temperature is getting colder day by day, and the tourists are all from Kunming, where the weather is better and the temperature is warmer. Spring City, the four seasons are like spring.
When we arrived in Lijiang, the altitude increased, and it was a mountainous area again, so the temperature dropped significantly. I didn't bring too many clothes with me, and I couldn't go to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. In addition, this group of tourists has been traveling around Kunming for more than a week, and some have been for half a month, and they are too tired. They canceled the plan to go to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain due to their unbearable health. The tour guide was also very happy, so he took everyone to a few small and exquisite scenic spots scattered around Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to have a look!
I also got up early today. After lunch, I have to go back to Dali to take the evening train back to Kunming. It only takes a few hours here, and I can't visit a few scenic spots.
The first place to visit is the Yuzhu Qingtian Scenic Area, which is known as the lake like jade. It is located in Yuhu Village, Baisha Town, at the south foot of the main peak of Yulong Snow Mountain in the north of the ancient city of Lijiang. , Yuhu, cliff stone carvings, Naxi people's favored holy land, Yulong Academy, Shenquan and other natural scenery in one, Dongba culture, Tibetan Buddhism and rich and colorful ethnic customs complement each other. There is a home for the soul, a pure land for the soul to take refuge.
Yuhu Village is about 15 kilometers away from the ancient city of Lijiang. There is a Yuhu Village (formerly known as Xuesong Village) known as "the first village in the snow mountain". Xuesong Village is called "Wuluken" in Naxi language, translated as "Silver Stone Foot", which is the foot of Yulong Snow Mountain. Yuhu Village is indeed a magical and beautiful mountain village. The temperature is about 5°C lower than that of the ancient city of Lijiang. It is like the Chengde Mountain Resort, which was once a summer resort for the chieftains of the Mu family in Lijiang. The Mu family built a summer resort by the lake, and to the east of the village there was a deer farm for Mu's chieftain guarding the palace. Yuhu Lake and Xueshan Deer Farm are well-known among Naxi people, and they often appear in Naxi folk songs. This village under the snow-capped mountain is incomparably beautiful. You can look up to the world-famous mountain "Eluju" and bend down to the fairyland Lijiang "Yegudui". ". To the west of the village are the "Xuesong Nunnery", the famous landscapes "Jade Pillar Qingtian" and "Jade Wall Jinchuan". Yuzhu Qingtian is about 3,000 meters above sea level. It is the summer palace where Mu’s chieftain spends his summer vacation. The main tourist attractions here include Mu’s chieftain’s summer palace, cliff carvings, Yulong Academy, Karmapa Living Buddha’s retreat, Dongba Temple of the Gods, Prince Cave, Guanyin Rock, thousand-year-old trees, Longtan Waterfall, etc.
The car continued to move in the direction of the snow-capped mountains. The sun on the right side of the car gradually rose, and a ray of morning glow instantly covered the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, like a ray of bright lights. Immediately brightened up. Gradually, the ray of sunlight became brighter and brighter, and the snow peak began to be crystal clear and sparkling. It took only 20 minutes to arrive at the Yuzhu Qingtian Scenic Area. Not far from the gate of the scenic spot, you can see Yuhu Lake.
At the foot of the stone cliff, the thousand-year-old ice and snow have melted, and a clear spring is like jade, known as Yuhu. The lake is not very big, about 200 meters long and 70 to 80 meters wide. There is water in four seasons, and the amount of water changes with the seasons. The thousand-year-old trees on the lakeside are dense, and the cliff is close to the lake. It is dense and deep, and it is like a pair of giant umbrellas obliquely covering the lake. This lake is an artificial lake built by Mu's chieftain before the Ming Dynasty. Yuhu Lake got its name because the snow peaks and forests of Yulong Mountain were reflected in the lake. .
Because Baisha is the birthplace of the Naxi Tusi Mu family, many cultural relics and historic sites closely related to the history of the Mu clan and the Naxi people are distributed throughout Baisha. This lake has a great influence on the Naxi people in history, and it is often mentioned in traditional folk songs. , such as "Jade Lake Reflection" is one of the famous "Twelve Views of Jade Dragon".
The reflection of Yuhu Lake depicts the wonderful landscape of Yuhu Lake. In the crystal clear Yuhu Lake, the shadows of snow-capped mountains are clearly visible. Whenever the breeze blows, on the sparkling lake, snow-capped mountains, blue sky and white clouds, green trees and white bridges They all seem to be rippling in the water waves, and people seem to be walking in the fairyland of the fairyland in the sky.
It is said that after the chieftain of the Mu family built the lake, he could not store water due to water leakage at the bottom of the lake. Later, he buried a jade pot at the bottom of the lake to store water into the lake, so Yuhu is also called Yuhu. Later, because there was a natural small lake on Yulong Snow Mountain, the spring water never dried up for thousands of years, so it was called Yuhu in ancient times. There is a bridge across the lake, which is called "Lover's Bridge". Standing on the quaint wooden bridge, looking at a pool of blue water like jade, people's thoughts will flow like the lake water. At this time, people become bridges. The bridge becomes a person, and the bridge becomes a witness of beauty.
The most representative and widely circulated Yuhu legend is the story about the "Princess Tree".
According to legend, in order to achieve his own intentions, King Naxi wanted to "befriend" the Ba people in Yongning (one said it was Yanyuan), and betrothed his most beautiful daughter to the prince of Ba. After the princess arrived in Pa Kingdom, she often said in front of the prince that it was not as good as her hometown, and always wanted to go back to the Naxi Kingdom to have a look. So, after discussing with each other, the couple agreed that the wife should go back during the Naxi festival. But after the daughter came back, King Naxi locked her up and deliberately revealed the secret to her. The passionate Naxi girl who always loves first wants to send a letter to the husband of the Ba people, asking him to save her, so she quietly puts a letter in the bell of the dog she brought back, and tells the dog to return the letter quickly, asking the prince to come. save her. When the dog returned to the prince's house, everyone noticed that the dog's bell did not ring, so they found the letter. The insidious thing is that the Naxi king asked the people to sacrifice to heaven in advance, and mobilized craftsmen from Lijiang and Heqing counties to make a large number of iron nails. buried on the road. Then set up an ambush with heavy troops to devour the Ba people who came to rescue them. The prince of Ba has really come, and he also brought soldiers and horses. After the soldiers and horses of Ba Kingdom came here, the hoofs of the horses hid in the iron pot, and the people stepped on the iron nails. At that moment, they turned their backs on their backs. People and horses, the prince of Pakistan died in battle. Since then, Baisha has been called "Bengshi" in Naxi language, which means "the place where the Ba people died".
King Naxi imprisoned his daughter who betrayed him in the Youchun Pavilion on the island in the middle of Yuhu Lake in the snow mountain. He gave her dried meat and salty fried rice every day, but did not give her water to drink, so that she looked at the sweetness of Yuhu Lake every day. Listening to the rippling sound of Yuhu water, told her to look at the lake but not let her drink a drop of Yuhu water. The princess had long braids, so she hung them down to draw water from the lake. King Naxi found it strange that his daughter's face remained unchanged after many days without water, so he secretly sent people to spy and discovered the secret. So he asked someone to shave the princess' hair, and the princess finally died of thirst on the pavilion.
This passionate Naxi woman died of love alive and slowly just looking at the snowy water of Yuhu Lake. Of course, we know that love does not die. The caring Naxi people quietly burned down the pavilion and rescued the princess who dedicated herself to love. In the second year after his death, a big tree with dense foliage grew on a small island in the center of Yuhu Lake. The local people called this tree "Luzhu". Everyone also calls this tree the Dragon Girl Tree. Once the Dragon Girl Tree grows up, it will be full of charms, broken flowers like stars, and infinitely lovely. As long as you have the heart to go there, every flower, leaf and leaf of the Dragon Girl Tree will be right for you. You are blinking with amorous light, and the infinitely secluded water of Yuhu Lake and the gurgling Huaxue Spring seem to be swallowed like mysterious tears of love. It is said that the flowers on the tree are turned from the tears of a passionate Naxi woman. The tears turned into flowers fall in the Jade Lake. If someone drinks the water from the Jade Lake, even a woman with a heart as hard as iron will become Soft-hearted and passionate. The branches and leaves of this tree hang down to the center of the lake, which reminds people of the tragic scene of the princess dying of thirst while looking at the lake. According to legend, on a night when the moon is white and the wind is clear, the faint cry of the princess can be heard near Yuhu Lake. According to legend, the "Princess Crying" in the ancient Naxi music "Baisha Xiyue" is the movement singing about this event.
This story adds strangeness and interest to Yuhu, just as Ashima's story adds infinite charm to Shilin. Because Yuhu Lake is located at the foot of the snow-capped mountains, you can see the reflection of Jade Dragon Snow Peak from the lake. There are vast pastures beside the lake. In spring and summer, countless flowers are dotted on the green grass. You can watch the cattle and listen to the singing of the shepherds by the lake. In the past, Mu's chieftain's summer villa and the former site of the deer farm are also on the lakeside, which makes visitors feel nostalgic for the past. Due to the higher location of Yuhu. From here, you can also enjoy the winding mountains, the vast Baishabazi and the distant view of Lijiang City.
Yuhu Lake is surrounded by Yulong Snow Mountain, facing Baishabazi in the east, and facing Huwen Mountain in the distance. Leaning against Yulong Mountain in the west, the fan of the main peak is steeply reflected in the lake. The blue sky and the lake move in the daytime. "Reflection of Jade Lake" is the first of the twelve shadows of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Throughout the ages, many high-level rhymes, literati and filmmakers have come to the lake to view the scenery, or drink tea, or drink wine, or fish with poles. land. The mountain in the south is steep and piercing into the clouds. It is said that this is the kingdom of love and beauty of the martyrs under the rule of the ancestors of the Naxi people - the holy land of the god of love in the "Third Kingdom of Jade Dragon". In the past, many young men and women who died generously for love spent their last days in this beautiful alpine meadow. And there surrender their whole lives to Eros.
The image left in the history books and the memory of the old people here is even more magical and beautiful. It is a country that is far away from the world and makes people yearn for. The ancient Naxi folk tale "The Third Country of Jade Dragon" imagines the kingdom of love and the paradise of lovers. In order to save his sweetheart A Haimei, Atago dives into the bottom of the lake with a golden feather in his mouth and fetches the Jade Dragon Sword from the tree of Shanhu Lake. ; In "The Legend of the Dragon Girl Tree", the princess of Mu Tianwang interprets the sad Naxi ancient music "Mengmingwu" because of criticizing her husband. In the "Manuscript of Qianlong Lijiang Mansion Chronicle" and many papers handed down to the world, the image of Yuhu is an ethereal and charming realm. Among the twelve sceneries of Lijiang and twelve snow-capped mountains summed up by the ancients, there are "Snow Mountain Autumn Moon" and "Jade Lake Reflection". The lake, looking at the scenery of the lake and mountains, makes people linger and forget to return. Today, when people stand by the Jade Lake, as long as you silently look at the holy place loved by the Naxi children, this paradise on earth where people are fascinated by the "Third Jade Dragon Kingdom" is located in the depths of the tourists' affectionate eyes, in the clouds and mists. In the winding, a kingdom of love and beauty will emerge. In that kingdom of love and beauty, all kinds of flowers are in full bloom, cattle and sheep are in herds, fruits are plentiful, rice is abundant, and those who love each other live a fairy-like life. All the sorrows in the world can be forgotten, and all the pains in the world can be detached.
Now Yuhu Lake is stocked with very large colorful red trout. It is said that it is a cold-water fish imported from the United States. Dishes chosen by tourists.
On the west side of Yuhu Lake, there are upper and lower deep pools and many cascading waterfalls. The mountain road has been covered with thin frost, and the thousand-year-old trees are dense. , The birds are chirping in the meantime, the birds are singing and the flowers are fragrant, refreshing. Go straight up the steep mountain road and you will find the "Guanyin Cliff", and at the bottom of the cliff is the sweet spring water of Taizi Cave. The surrounding villagers also drink this water. It is a natural low-salinity drinking water. It is said that this water can cure eye diseases, rheumatism and other diseases. A statue of "Zongzi Guanyin" keeps watch here all the year round, and long-married infertile couples burn their offerings here and drink water, which will bring good news to the infertile couples. While experiencing the feeling of returning to nature, along the cliff, there are many scenic spots such as Xuesong Nunnery and giant stone wall characters. On the Shishi cliff, which is about 30 meters high, there is a vertical engraving of the four characters "Jade Pillar Supporting the Sky", which was inscribed by Yang, the first official magistrate of Lijiang during the Yongzheng period of the Qing Dynasty (1724 A.D.). The four characters "Yubi Jinchuan" are engraved horizontally on the lower left, which was inscribed by Lijiang County Prime Minister Nie Rui in 1725. Work and humanities are integrated. Today's people are amazed by the superb stone carving calligraphy skills and wisdom of the ancients. It vividly expresses Lijiang, a beautiful place like countless jade walls towering above Jinchuan, and it has also become a cultural relic directly related to the important historical event of "reforming the land and returning to the stream".
During the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, Lijiang began to have official judges. "Tong San" is the civil servant of the Assistant Prefect. The Mu family, Mu Tusi, since Mu Zeng's sons Mu Yi and Sun Mujing, the power has been declining day by day, going from bad to worse. In the early Qing Dynasty, Yunnan was separatized by Wu Sangui. The Mu family suffered from it repeatedly, and the people also suffered from violent extortion.
In the first year of Emperor Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty, Mu Zhili, a member of the Mu family, was a man of boldness, wit and foresight. He and some Naxi people gathered on the Zhonghai embankment and conspired to appeal to the provincial governor for the pain of the people. The people responded happily and tried their best to help. As a result, Gao Qizhuo, the governor of Yunnan, played a role in the court, and Lijiang realized a new situation of reforming the land and returning to the people. Kong Xingxun, the general judge before the change, wrote in the inscription on the establishment of the Lijiang Confucian Temple: "Ding Chou (1697), at the beginning of Lijiang, saw the beauty of the mountains and rivers, which was different from the humble customs. …
Because of the way of thinking about change, it must rely on ritual and music; the prosperity of ritual and music is building a Confucian temple. ...
Therefore, there are those who are surprised and those who are in danger. It is said that once a business that has not been established in the past and present, once it is self-developed, it will not only eliminate the feelings of the barbarians, but also restore the funds; "
Because Kong Tongpan had no political power at that time, it was very difficult, but he was eager to educate the Naxi people. He generously donated his salary and tried to recruit from various parties.
In the first year of Yongzheng (1723), the first official of Lijiang was Yang Tan. Yang Tan, a native of Liaoning, recorded the situation of Jianfu Chronicles and said: "In the spring of the first year of Yongzheng, he arrived at the county to inspect the affairs, the city and the country, and all the affairs were not neglected. He was the first to investigate the diseases of the people, and was exempted from sending more than ten thousand yuan every year; the second was to send out good people. There are more than five hundred households who are slaves in the farmyard, and the tax and labor are evenly distributed, and the people are encouraged to cultivate.
Other establishment systems, such as strict officials, clearing up salt administration, promoting water conservancy, compiling Baojia, painting scriptures, banning idleness, encouraging customs, and doing everything that herdsmen should do. Over a period of time, withering gradually began. ..."
"Reforming the land and returning to the natives" was a major revolution of the Naxi people in Lijiang. Yang Bi, the first governor of the Liuguan, was also a talented and honest intellectual. The positive measures he wrote in the above diaries, These are all facts that work. This made the people of the whole county grateful and remember. On the cliff beside Hongqing Pool at the foot of Yulong Snow Mountain, he wrote a large stele with four characters "Jade Pillars Supporting the Sky", which is majestic, solid and complete, and the people still admire it.
"Jade pillars support the sky", this sentence can be used as a metaphor for "a politician who supports the country". The four characters "Jade Pillar Qingtian" are engraved in the center of the cliff. On the left side of it is engraved "Yongzheng Jiachen Chunli County Governor Xiangping Yang's inscription". Below it are the four characters "Yubi Jinchuan" in the "Chengjun Nie Rui Inscription". It vividly expresses Lijiang, a beautiful place like countless jade walls towering above Jinchuan.
Climbing and looking down, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is like a jade pillar holding up the sky, propping up a piece of blue sky above the head, turning around and looking around, you can have a panoramic view of the vast and open pastoral scenery - "Wuluken". Yuhu Village is called "Wuluken" in Naxi language, translated as "Silver Stone Foot", which is the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The landform of Yuhu Village is characterized by the undulating edge of Yulong Mountain, which belongs to mountainous alpine or mountainous areas, and the climate belongs to mountainous cold temperate zone. Originating from Yuzhu Qingtian, the Yuhu River, which never dries up in four seasons, traverses the upper and lower villages of Yuhu.
Yuhu Village is named after the Yulong. "There is a large Yimu grass dam beside Yuhu Lake, with beautiful scenery. In the past, there were dozens of wild animals such as deer, wild boars, and bears in the mountains around Yuhu Village.
In 1922, Joseph Locke, an Austrian-American, entered Yunnan from the China-Myanmar border as a National Geographic contributor, botanist, geologist, and explorer, and then moved to Lijiang. Because of the rich and diverse vegetation and geology of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Locke decided to settle in Yuhu Village under the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, hired Yuhu people, and established the "National Geographic Society Yunnan Province Expedition Team". The vast hinterland of China. Locke lived in Yuhu Village most of the time in Lijiang except for his field trips. Locke later became obsessed with the study of Naxi culture, and was the first westerner to introduce Lijiang to the world, known as "the father of Naxi study". Joseph Locke lived here for 27 years (1922-1949). Locke wrote in his book: "Wulukeng, a small village with a beautiful environment, is located on the slope of the pure Daxue Mountain in Lijiang. The main peak has a steep fan, protecting it like a patron saint."
The headquarters of the National Geographic Society’s Yunnan Province Expedition Team is located here. In this village, I treated the villagers for some minor illnesses, or helped them get rid of mental uneasiness based on imagination. trust. "In this village, Locke once watched Dongba's exorcism ceremony, and witnessed Dongba standing barefoot on the red-hot plowshare; licking the scorching plowshare with his tongue, making it make a "hissing" sound; Seeing Dongba's hand dipping into a flaming oil pan and other witchcraft activities. It was in the residence of this village that Locke asked Dongba to perform those important ceremonies in Dongba religion. He took notes and took hundreds of photos Made a movie. Locke also had a complete collection of Dongba scriptures. According to Locke, these scriptures he collected "is a complete series that no Naxi priest can have today. "
The vicissitudes of time have passed, half a century has passed, and human affairs have changed, but the pure snow mountain is still the same, the old residence of Wulukenlock is still the same, and the simplicity and friendliness of the villagers are still the same. Uluken - a village that honors and remembers the best of Joseph Francis Rock. Today, Locke's former residence and a large number of historical photos taken by Locke are still preserved here, as well as some of Locke's relics left in Lijiang.
After enjoying the idyllic scenery of Yuhu Village, we made a detour to Yulong Academy. The palace of Yulong Academy located on the north side of Yuhu Lake is the northernmost part of the summer palace where King Naxi spent his summer. It was surrounded by green mountains and clear waters hidden by green forests, and under the magical and magnificent Yulong Snow Mountain. At that time, the chieftain of the Mu family spent the summer here, chanting among the mountains and rivers, and experiencing the idyllic life.
The "Yulong Academy" for reciting poems, calligraphy and painting was also built in the summer resort, which has become a place for the chieftains of all dynasties to read and study, and has developed their thoughts of advocating culture and being inclusive of all things. It has become a major symbol of the chieftains of the past dynasties respecting culture and valuing reading. The chieftains of the past dynasties spent their leisure time here to escape the summer heat, drank wine and wrote poems, completely forgetting themselves.
As time went by, there have been generations of Naxi kings in the summer palace, but the habit of learning to read has been passed down. In Lijiang, the memorial archway of "Tianyu Liufang" ("Go to study" in Naxi language) inspires the spiritual world of Naxi people. The natural design of Dayan (Yan) Town has endowed Lijiang with a kind of aura, creating a legend of Lijiang being born in large numbers. From Zhao Fan's enlightenment teacher Li Yuzhan and other seven fellow-townsmen who raised people in the "eight disciplines", to Kegongfang Yang's "one family and three candidates", from father and son Zhou Wei, Zhou Guannan, to Kegongfang and Gengji came from behind and became a Jinshi in high school, becoming the last Jinshi in the history of the Naxi nationality. According to statistics, during the more than 110 years since the reform of Yongzheng to the middle period of Daoguang, there were 3 imperial examinations in Lijiang, 31 candidates, 5 candidates, and more than 70 tribute students.
Today's Yulong Academy mainly displays the famous poem "Twelve Scenes of Snow Mountain" by Mu Zhengyuan, a famous poet of Naxi nationality in Lijiang in Qing Dynasty. The twelve calligraphy works written with the content of twelve poems are all written by famous calligraphers in Lijiang. Mu Zhengyuan, a poet, was once a Juren during the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty and served as the dean of Lijiang Snow Mountain Academy. Because of his extensive knowledge and noble moral character, he was highly regarded by the national hero Lin Zexu. His famous masterpiece "Twelve Scenes of Snow Mountain" depicts the scenery around Snow Mountain and Yuhu Lake.
The tour guide said: According to legend, from Yuhu Village to the northwest to climb the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, there is a large meadow halfway through the woods for more than an hour. In spring and summer, there are wild flowers in the shade. The giant cliff, soaring into the clouds, with hundreds of caves gathered, is also called "Hundred Cave Cliff". This is one of the Yulong Mountain peaks that can be seen in Lijiang Dam. This imposing and extraordinary giant cliff is called "Xianji Cliff". On the stones at the foot of the rock, there are countless intricate footprints of different beasts. According to legend, Lijiang Tusi Mu Shengbai in the Ming Dynasty (that is, Mu Zeng, Neng Poetry and Prose has been published and handed down in the collection department, with outstanding political achievements, the Naxi people honored him as "Mu Tianwang" and the legend gave him the image of a god). Tired of the world of mortals, he abdicated at the age of 36 and lived in seclusion in the snow-capped mountains alone. For a long time, he knew the birds and beasts in the mountains very well, and could understand the language of birds and beasts. He often played with birds and beasts under this cliff, and finally chose a mount here. He chose a red tiger, leaped over the huge rock, and escaped into the deep mountain clouds and mist. It was left when Mu Tianwang played with the beasts.
Another legend is that King Mu Tian longed for the life of cultivating immortals in his later years, and finally rode a white horse to hide in Yulong Snow Mountain, where he quietly escaped from the world. A large area of dissolution. There are several lines of bowl-sized characters engraved on the lower left part of this "immortal trace", and the handwriting is indistinguishable. There is a ruined house in the lower left corner of "Fairy Trace". According to legend, it was built here by a practicing monk. There is another strange thing on the meadow under the cliff, a lawn of about 5 square meters, which is evergreen in all seasons, but the surrounding grass dies in winter. Therefore, this small grass dam looks like a piece of green jade embedded in it in winter. The hillside on the left side of "Xianji Cliff" is called "Mountain God Slope". When people come to this grassland to graze and dig medicine, they must first sacrifice to the mountain god.
There are also several mysterious places of martyrdom near "Xianji Cliff". In the early 1950s, it is said that a county magistrate and a lover of Lijiang County died in love nearby. , but his body has never been found. Still in the early 1950s, three young men met their lovers to die in love. Because the letter to their lovers was withheld, and when their lovers passed away, the three young men died alone near Xianji Cliff. Along the way, they wrote " On the day when the horse's head grows horns and the stone blooms, we will come back again" and so on. The nickname of the leader who died in love was "Azhang", so this place is called "Azhang Pavilion" (Azhang Grassland). These legends about the mixture of humans and gods add a strange and mysterious color to this place, with the purpose of enhancing the charm of this place and attracting more tourists.