Saturday, November 22, 2008 sunny

Yunnan Tourism in 2008 (Travel Notes, 11th)


Goodbye, beautiful Xishuangbanna

Farewell, beautiful "Twelve Thousand Fields"

Farewell, green peacock feathers!


Today is the third day after arriving in Xishuangbanna. After breakfast, I will return to Kunming. It is estimated that I will arrive in Kunming at around 5 o'clock in the afternoon. I spent the whole day on the bus from Jinghong to Kunming. It was very difficult. Oh, but I still wish you a smooth journey and a safe arrival!

After breakfast, the tour guide "Sao Duoli" jumped into the car to bid farewell to everyone (the tourism department of Yunnan Province stipulates that tour guides in various regions are not allowed to leave the city or city).


"Everyone, Sao Duoli, Moodoli, I have been very happy to guide you in the past few days. We have spent many good times together in the past few days. I hope you are as happy as I am, and hope Everyone feels that this trip to Banna is happy and complete. If I have the opportunity in the future, I hope to be a tour guide for you again. I wish you a happy return journey. Thank you for coming to Xishuangbanna and accepting my service! Thank you!"

The bus departed from Jinghong City, the city of dawn, and headed north along Xuanwei Avenue. The bus drove slowly. We once again had a look at the street scene of Jinghong City, the Lancang River and the Xishuangbanna Bridge.




The Lancang River is like the Danube River in Europe, with a complex basin. The Lancang River passes through six countries, China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. When it reached the lower reaches of foreign countries, it was renamed the Mekong River. The Lancang Jiangxi Shuangbanna Bridge adopts a two-way cable-stayed structure, which is very magnificent. It was my first trip to Banna to have close contact with this magnificent building.



After dinner last night, I went shopping a few streets, enjoyed the night of Jinghong City again, and stopped by the night market on Mengla Road to buy some memorable things, and returned with a full load.

The bus got on the Kunming-Xiamen Expressway and headed north. The Kunming-Xiamen Expressway is the section from Kunming to Xiaomengyang in the Kunming-Bangkok International Passage. It is the first expressway in my country that passes through a national tropical rainforest nature reserve. The 100-kilometer section from Pu'er City to Xiaomengyang has 37 kilometers to pass through the tropical rainforest reserve, and one-third of the mileage will pass through the secondary forest belt in the experimental zone of Xishuangbanna National Nature Reserve. This section is known as the "ecological high way". It feels like the beauty of "the car is driving in the forest, and the person is swimming in the painting".

After lunch yesterday, I ran up and down the Lancang River (Jinghong City - Olive Dam) twice, with a distance of 70 to 80 kilometers. I saw this piece of green and pure land on the Tropic of Cancer gave them simple local customs, The mighty Lancang River has nurtured the industrious and wise Dai people. After spending half a day visiting the Dai Nationality Park, I have to admit that it is the epitome of the Dai Nationality in Xishuangbanna, where the essence of Dai national culture is concentrated, just as a certain poet said: "When you visit Olive Dam every day, you dream of returning to the Dai Nationality Garden every night."

The Dai people have a long history. They worship peacocks and elephants. They are a nation with language and written records. In the long-term life, it has created a splendid culture, especially famous for the Dai calendar, Dai language and colorful folk literature and art.







As early as more than 1,000 years ago, the ancestors of the Dai nationality wrote many beautiful and moving myths and legends, fables, novels, poems, etc. on beiye and tissue paper; The words engraved on monstera leaves after cooking can be preserved for a long time; the beiye culture of the Dai people seems to be a unique and accidental phenomenon in the whole Chinese culture, but it is important to the Dai people. In other words, it does represent all of their humanistic thoughts, so it is an inevitable choice for a nation. The Beiye Jing and the Dai people complement each other, and the Dai society can maintain a complete and unique characteristics, so it is not assimilated by the adjacent culture like other ethnic groups in history.

Bayeux culture is a symbolic reference to the traditional culture of the Dai people. The reason why it is called "Baye Culture" is because it is preserved in the Bayeux scriptures made of Bayeux.

Bayeux culture is actually a relatively young culture in the nearly 10,000-year history of ancient Chinese culture. It began with the introduction of Theravada Buddhism thousands of years ago and reached its peak in more than 400 years. Through the development of the Dai family, the popularity and universality of the Bayeux Sutra has been fully developed. The Beiye Sutra is the most important tool for them to pass on ideas and learn culture in all strata of the Dai society, and at the same time it has created a specific social education system for the Dai people.

The Dai people put all their humanistic thoughts into it through Bayeux. Throughout the vast Bayeux classics, the content includes a large number of ethics, religious teachings, etiquette, philosophy, history and folk customs, politics and military affairs, economy and production life, astronomy and calendar, seasonal solar terms and agriculture, medical theory and medical knowledge, Arts and crafts and calligraphy and painting knowledge, water conservancy and engineering architecture, literature and art, natural science knowledge, traditional martial arts and sports, etc., are all-encompassing. It can be said that all aspects of the cultural heritage of the Dai people have been fully expressed on the shell leaves, and the fragrant shell leaves are the encyclopedia of the Dai people.

During the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, the Dai people in Yunnan began to use their own characters to write the Beiye Sutra. It is estimated that the Dai language was also produced during this period. It should have originated from the Pali script of ancient India, and after careful transformation by the Dai Buddhist believers, it was finally It formed the "side-by-side" characters that were different from the vertical writing habits of the Central Plains at that time. The bedoro tree grows in Guangdong, Guizhou, especially in Yunnan, China. The Dai people call this tree "Golan", and the bay leaves are naturally called Golan leaves. Bedolo tree, shaped like a palm tree, is a tropical plant belonging to the palm family. It is mainly produced in the south, mostly in India, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, and southwest China. The leaves are long and dense in texture, which can be used for writing scriptures, and are called Bedo or Bayeux for short. This provides inexhaustible writing materials for the Bayeux culture in the Dai area. In addition, for the convenience of writing scriptures, the monks in the Dai area also introduced many Dora trees from the Buddhist country along the route of spreading Buddhism, and planted them in the courtyard of the temple. In this way, the bay leaves can be picked in time. The Dai language in Xishuangbanna calls it "Golan". Historically, every Buddhist temple has a Buddhist scripture pavilion, which is called "Lin Tan" in Dai language, and all Beiye scriptures must be kept here, under the strict supervision of Buddhas and monks. Without the permission of the temple owner, no one is allowed to enter here to take away the scriptures. Therefore, it is rare for Bayeux scriptures to be lost in Buddhist temples.

A classic needs many bay leaves to complete, and its production process includes the steps of picking leaves, boiling, drying, polishing, cutting, perforating, engraving, coloring and binding.

Cut the bay leaf from the bay leaf tree, the leaves should be soft and strong. Use a sharp knife to trim the bay leaves neatly one by one, roll three to five pieces into a roll, tie them up, and put them in a pot to cook. When cooking, tamarind or lemon is added to peel off the skin on the surface of the bay leaf. It usually takes half a day to cook until the bay leaves turn pale green and white, then take them out of the pot, take them to the riverside and wash them with fine sand, then flatten the bay leaves and dry them in the sun, put them away and let them air out for a period of time , and then into a box.

There are two special wooden boxes as standard for making Bayeux scripture boxes. The wooden box is about one and a half feet long and four inches wide. A small hole is drilled about half a foot from both ends of the wooden box, and the dried and ventilated bay leaves are tightly clamped between two pieces of wood. In the middle of the box, the two ends are tied tightly with rope, and then the bay leaves are drilled through the small holes on both sides of the wooden box with special nails. After ordering, use a knife to gently smooth the bay leaf box, and use a special ink line bow to lightly hit the ink line on the bay leaf according to the writing format, and leave it for future engraving.

At first, the Dai characters were carved on the bay leaves along the ink line with a small sharp knife. Later, I felt that writing with a knife was slow and laborious, so I switched to writing with an iron hairpin. After engraving, use vegetable fruit oil mixed with black smoke from the bottom of the pot, apply it on the engraved shell leaves, and then wipe it with a damp cloth, the writing on the shell leaves will appear clearly. After the engraved scriptures are bound into volumes, a layer of gold powder or red or black lacquer is painted on the surrounding edges for protection and decoration.

The beiye itself was very common, but it was chosen by the Dai people to develop into a national beiye culture. The beiye, a natural material, has been sublimated, and the history and culture of the Dai people have become romantic and elegant. Practical, primitive and delicate, unique personality, as long as the Lancang River, as deep and broad as the tropical rainforest, as deep and mysterious as Theravada Buddhism. The Bayeux culture of the Dai people is just like cultural phenomena such as their magnificent Buddhist architecture, their unique costumes, their singing and dancing derived from nature, and their crazy and warm Songkran Festival, which together build a unique geographical environment. Colorful cultural landscape.

The dances of the Dai people have a high artistic level and distinct national characteristics. The movements are many analogies and beautifying animal behaviors, such as the popular "peacock dance" and "elephant foot encouragement".

The music of the Dai people is melodious, and besides accompaniment to dances, it is often combined with poetry. Sculpture and painting also have distinct characteristics. The Dai people believe in Theravada Buddhism, and pagodas and Buddhist temples can be seen everywhere in the Dai people's area. Dai folk houses - bamboo buildings, are the most typical stilt-style buildings in my country, with elegant and unique shapes, and it is cool and comfortable to live in. Dai men have the custom of tattooing, which means bravery, beauty, and can attract the love of the opposite sex.

Here, it is green all year round, the big banyan is like an umbrella, and the phoenix bamboo shakes green. When you walk into the Dai Garden, you will see the most distinctive Dai garden-style buildings, as well as the resplendent pagodas and temples with a history of nearly a thousand years. Because the Dai people believe in Theravada Buddhism, the local people believe that only those who have been monks are the most educated people. The Water-Splashing Festival is the most solemn festival of the Dai people. Every year on the Dai calendar New Year (mid-April in the Gregorian calendar every year), water-splashing activities are held in the areas of the Dai people. In order not to disappoint the guests visiting the Dai Nationality Garden, there is a water-splashing festival every day here, you splash me, I splash you, you bless me, I give you blessings, so that every guest who visits the Dai Nationality Garden can experience it every day. To the joy of the "Oriental Carnival". Gardeners say that the Paranasi Garden of the Dai Nationality is a model of garden gardens; historians say that the Paranasi Garden of the Dai Nationality is a living museum of national history; It is the gene bank of the plant kingdom; writers say that Yuanmeng Paranaxi of the Dai nationality is a fairyland on earth, a paradise far away from the busy city and hard to find... What does Mengbala Naxi Dai Nationality Garden look like? Friends, if you haven't been there yet, then come and see if it's the place you yearn for. Is it a beautiful place in your imagination? The green olive dam has a luscious aftertaste. Olive Dam, a land named after olives, has endless aftertaste like green olives.

When I walked into the courtyard of the Dai family, it seemed that I had entered another time and space, and I felt a sudden sense of being separated from the world. The courtyard is full of various tropical fruit trees, and the beauty-loving Dai people also plant a wide range of exotic flowers and herbs, which are fragrant all year round. The dishes served on the table by the Dai people are almost all homegrown poultry eggs, as well as mountain delicacies and wild vegetables picked from outside, which are delicious in color and delicious in taste. This may also be the reason why the Dai girls are slender and have a delicate and handsome face. The long tube skirts of Dai girls are wrapped in ancient legends, not to mention the tenderness and beauty of Dai girls, and the Dai bamboo houses with the fragrance of glutinous rice are also charming. I went deep into the heart of the Dai village with the attitude of a swimming fish, but I was drunk on the fragrant glutinous rice cakes and the enthusiasm of the Dai family. There are so many kinds of customs in the Dai family, and even masters can’t describe them one by one: gentle mountains and rivers, beautiful scenery, peculiar customs and customs, my Dai village is the kind of place that is easy to walk in, but not easy to leave.

In the late autumn, the waves are blooming, the drums are beating like feet, the gourd silk is blowing, the water is splashing and singing, and even the wind is laughing happily. The blessings from Banna people are all in the water splashed on you by barrels. The water in the Dai family is sacred, and splashing water on each other is to offer the most true and beautiful blessings in the world to each other. The ancient program of the Water-Splashing Festival has been continued to this day. Presumably no one is unwilling to accept this blessing as thick as rice wine, and no one is unwilling to wash away the dust of a year!

Deja vu, the tree-wrapped pagoda, the Dai Buddhist temple surrounded by trees, the graceful Dai girl, the water and wine of deep friendship, the pure frangipani, the waist drum as slender as a Dai woman, and so on. With her, her long black hair, gentle and demure smile, etc., have been deeply engraved in my mind.

... ... ...

Goodbye Dai Nationality Park! Goodbye Olive Dam! ! Goodbye Xishuangbanna! ! !

The first big city to leave Jinghong is Pu'er City (formerly Simao District, Simao City). This city was renamed Pu'er City in Yunnan Province after the State Council approved Simao City in Yunnan Province. On April 8 of the same year, Simao City in Yunnan Province was renamed Pu'er City.






Pu'er City is located in the southwest of Yunnan Province and is the largest city-level administrative region in Yunnan Province. I heard from tour guides and tea shop guides in various places in Yunnan: "Pu'er is said to be the earliest place in the world to grow Pu'er tea, make tea, drink tea, and sell tea. There are nearly 80,000 mu of wild ancient tea tree communities in Pu'er, and the trees are 2,700 years old. The king of wild tea trees in Qianjiazhai, Zhenyuan for more than a thousand years, the transitional ancient tea trees in Lancang Bangwei, which are more than a thousand years old, and the cultivated ancient tea mountains in Jingmai. The remains of fossils and ancient tea trees all prove that Puer is the original place of tea. The center of the country is the so-called 'world tea town'."

This trip to Yunnan has only been for six days, but in these six days, there have been more than ten teahouse supermarkets that have been forced into teahouse supermarkets by tour guides from all over the world. Infusion of Pu'er tea can reduce fat and lose weight, lower blood pressure, lower blood sugar, resist arteriosclerosis, sober up, protect teeth, fight cancer, prevent cancer, and even protect the stomach, nourish the stomach, beautify the skin, beautify, anti-aging, etc. , Some even boast that it can prevent radiation, diuretic, etc. In short, it seems that there are endless effects and benefits. But I have never felt that it is delicious, it is bitter, astringent, and the color seems to be a little cloudy, and I have never felt its goodness.

Pu-erh tea (this tea is also produced in our local area, called eagle tea, which means that the tea tree grows taller, and is usually harvested from tea trees that are several meters or more than ten meters long. There are also black teas. In fact, the original name of Pu-erh tea should be "Puwei" "er tea".) I don't know when, a group of people who disturbed life suddenly fried 500 grams of tea to tens of thousands or even hundreds of thousands. With a great reputation, Pu'er City naturally became the center of the "Tea Saint". The Pu'er tea produced here has grown to tens of thousands or even hundreds of thousands of yuan per catty, which has become a fashion that people yearn for and follow. In fact, the origin of Pu'er tea should be in the area of ​​Nannuo Mountain in Xishuangbanna.

Pu-erh tea is passed on miraculously. The super-efficiency of Pu-erh tea is actually a cure for all diseases. It not only has efficient functions, but also has a magical storage magic weapon. The longer it is stored, the better the quality and the higher the value. As a result, some people even spared no expense to buy and store them for their families.

Everyone on the earth knows the processing process of tea. After the tea is dried, it must be dried in sunlight so as not to damage the useful substances in the tea. The method of drying at high temperature in the dryer. Most experts in the industry believe that the tea baked by the dryer will become more bitter and have no collection value. The more the tea is fried, the more popular it is, and the more it sells, the more expensive it is. Its widely rumored health benefits have played a role in fueling the flames to a certain extent. Many Pu-erh tea distributors promote Pu-erh tea in this way: it can lose weight, fight cancer, diuretic, prevent radiation, etc. It has become a panacea that can cure all diseases. It is said that drinking this tea has the effect of lowering blood lipids. Many teas have the words "lowering three highs" written on the packaging.

The shopping guide lady told me that when purchasing Pu-erh tea, it is impossible to tell the quality and age of the tea just from the surface. You must drink, taste, and compare three steps to distinguish between good and bad.

The first step is to look at the color of the tea cake and the shape of the tea leaves. Authentic cooked Pu'er is the color of pig liver. After five years of aging, it will turn black and red. If the lines formed by a piece of tea leaves are complete, it is a high-quality tea cake; if there is no obvious shape of tea leaves on the surface of the tea cake, but it looks fine, it means that the quality of the tea cake is low.

Secondly, the storage life of the tea cake can be roughly judged by smelling the smell emitted by the Pu-erh tea cake. The ones with a mellow smell have been aged for five to ten years; the ones with a flat smell and no miscellaneous smell have been aged for three to five years; those with a raw and miscellaneous smell are new cakes.

Finally, look at the color of the brewed tea. Pu'er within three years is turbid, and the older the tea, the brighter the soup. The color of cooked tea will change from brown to red as the storage time increases; raw tea will change from green to yellow, and after more than ten years, the color will change from yellow to red.

... ... ...

Then pass through Ning'er County, and pass through Mojiang County, which is located in the Tropic of Cancer. It is also known as the place where the sun turns around. After passing Yuanjiang County, we saw the world's highest bridge - Honghe Bridge from a distance. Afterwards, we passed through Yuxi City, which is known as the Kingdom of Tobacco, etc., and watched the gorgeous tropical scenery and magical virgin forest along the way. I'm really tired of love!

Back to Kunming at 4:30 in the afternoon, the bus driver said that in order to relieve everyone's fatigue from the journey, he would soak everyone's feet for free. The car drove directly to the "Yunnan Army Reserve Infantry Division Hospital" (also known as Yunnan Nanjiang Hospital) at No. 57 Guanshangguan Road, Kunming City. A group of more than 50 of us were taken into a large room. There were chairs around the wall and two rows of back-to-back long chairs in the middle of the room. After sitting down and waiting for a few minutes, I saw dozens of young men and women in camouflage uniforms put a plastic basin in front of each person, put a large plastic bag on the basin, poured a packet of traditional Chinese medicine powder into the basin, and then they carried Fill each basin with half a basin of hot water in a large kettle, and the young man sitting in front of you will massage your feet after a while. The young man said that my feet have beriberi, and recommended me to buy a pack of foot light powder produced by the hospital itself. Soak your feet, soak your feet in water after the massage. At this time, several elderly people in white coats came in, and the people next to them introduced to everyone that now a famous military doctor is giving free consultations to everyone, and an old woman who called herself Yang SF gave me a pulse and said that I had kidney deficiency , I need to take the No. 1 medicine they produced (point to the copy of the Huangjia Medical Circle medicine briefing that they distribute to tourists), and I inquired about it. A course of treatment costs 600 yuan. Too much money, the old Chinese doctor immediately pulled his face down and gave another tourist a pulse. The young woman who gave me the massage said that I have onychomycosis on my feet, and they have foot bath medicine specially for the treatment of onychomycosis, a box of 70 yuan. I said I didn't have much money with me, but the old woman told me that I could buy a box for trial first, and then send the money to post if it worked. The old woman's doctor wrote me her mobile phone number.

After soaking my feet in the hospital, the driver of the bus said: We got together because of fate, but I know that when we get together, we always have to say goodbye. Parting is also for the next reunion. ...

"Some are about to leave Kunming, and some will leave rice to visit other scenic spots. When you are about to get off the bus, on behalf of myself and my travel agency, I would like to express my heartfelt thanks to everyone for their cooperation in the past few days. If you If you are not satisfied with our service, please tell me. If you are satisfied, please tell your friends. If you are together for a long time, you must divide, and if you are divided for a long time, you must unite. Dashun, seven stars shining brightly, wealth from all directions, ninety-nine concentric, perfect. Thank you! I wish you all a safe journey! Goodbye!" said the bus driver.

The bus master combined several parking spots according to the running route of the bus back to the parking lot and the places where tourists want to get off. I hope that all tourists can get off at various convenient stops. We are also on the South Ring Road near the railway station. After getting off the car at the Orchid Hotel, it was almost half past five.


After getting off the bus, we contacted several travel agencies for tomorrow and the following travel itinerary. After comparison, we finally chose the travel agency located on the second floor of Kelden Hotel, General Assembly Office, No. 117, Beijing Road, Kunming—— Yunnan Comfort Travel Agency Co., Ltd. A mature woman named Aunt Zou received us very excitedly, and later I heard that she is a leader here.

We quickly negotiated a one-day trip to Jiuxiang Scenic Area tomorrow (23rd) and a trip to Dali and Lijiang by train tomorrow night.

The price of a one-day trip to Jiuxiang Scenic Area is 110 yuan, including the car price for 90×2 kilometers (go → return ←), tickets for visiting female waterfalls, Yincui Gorge and other areas, and lunch. The two totaled 220 yuan. If you go by yourself, the total should be: 40 yuan/person for going and returning tickets; 90 yuan for sightseeing tickets, 30 yuan/person for one-way cable car tickets; 20 yuan/person for lunch. A total of 180 yuan for several items. Get in the car tomorrow morning and pay.

The tour fee for a five-day and four-night train double-bed tour to Dali and Lijiang is 650 yuan. On the first day (tomorrow, the 23rd), take the train from Kunming to Dali at 23 o'clock in the evening, and live on the train. On the second day, a one-day trip to Dali, the train arrives in Dali at 7:40 in the morning, visit the ancient city of Dali in the morning, the place where young men and women of the Bai nationality love and love - Butterfly Spring Park, and the three holy pagodas that stand out from afar He Cangshan, visit the film and television base of Mr. Jin Yong's "Dragon Ba Bu". In the afternoon, take a luxury cruise ship on the Erhai Lake, watch the scenery of Cangshan Mountain and the Erhai Lake, enjoy the singing and dancing of the Bai nationality, taste the three-course tea of ​​the Bai nationality (one bitter, two sweet and three aftertaste), and live in Dali. On the morning of the third day, take a bus from Dali to Lijiang. After breakfast, take a travel agency coach to the picturesque Lijiang, a "world cultural heritage", and enjoy the plateau scenery along the way. After arriving in Lijiang, you can see the "Plateau Gusu" with "flowing water in front of every house, and weeping willows race south of the Yangtze River"—— Lijiang Old Town, Sifang Street, experience the fairyland on earth with small bridges and flowing water, and a bar street, live in Lijiang. On the fourth day, after breakfast, go to the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which is known as "Oriental Switzerland", and enjoy the panoramic view of Wanglong Snow Mountain, enjoy the virgin forest along the way, visit the "plateau pasture" - Ganhaizi, Baishui River, and visit the Yushui Village of Dayulong , Yuzhu Qingtian, Dongba God Garden, visit Shuhe Ancient Town, etc., watch Naxi residents along the way, return to Dali by car from Lijiang after lunch, and return to Kunming by train after dinner in Dali. Arrive in Kunming early on the 5th day to break up the group. Signed a four-day five-night travel contract between Dali and Lijiang, contract number: YN=H=00●●YWS. The two paid a total of 1300 yuan.

After coming out of Comfort Travel Agency, I calculated the travel schedule for the next few days. After returning to Kunming from Dali and Lijiang in the morning on the 27th, I can visit the Xishan Scenic Area on the same day; on the 28th, I visited Daguan Tower and Green Lake Park in Kunming ; On the morning of the 29th, it took half a day to see the East Tower and West Tower, the Golden Horse and the Jade Rooster, etc., and then return to Chengdu in the afternoon. I decided to buy a ticket to return to Chengdu on the afternoon of the 29th. If you buy it in advance, you can enjoy a higher discount rate .

After going to several airline ticket offices near Yong'an Road, I finally bought a ticket for returning to Chengdu at 18:10 on the 29th with a discount rate of 3 at the Kunhangyi Aviation Ticket Center next to Yihua International Hotel on Yongsheng Road. Among them: The price is 210 yuan, the airport construction fee is 50 yuan, the fuel surcharge is 80 yuan, the total of the three items is 340 yuan per ticket, and the two tickets cost 680 yuan.

Then I found a chicken feather shop nearby for accommodation. The standard room was 60 yuan per room, and I spent 50 yuan for dinner.