Self-driving tour of Lugu Lake in 2014 (2) Traveling with grandson
Lugu Lake·Xichang→Lugu Lake
Today is Sunday, November 19th, sunny all day.
Try to stay in Lugu Lake Scenic Area tonight. The whole journey from Xichang City along the S307 Provincial Highway to the east gate of Lugu Lake Scenic Area is about 251 kilometers, and the self-driving tour is estimated to take about 6 hours to reach.
To get to Lugu Lake, you have to go through Yanyuan County to get there from Xichang. There is no expressway from Xichang to Yanyuan, let alone to Lugu Lake. There is only one ordinary mountainous third-class highway S307 provincial road.
At 9:15 in the morning, I got on the expressway from the Xichang toll station, and after running for about 25 kilometers, I got off the expressway at the Ximu toll station and got on the S307 provincial road. After crossing the Anning River, the driveway slowly began to climb towards Mopan Mountain. Mopan Mountain is the watershed between the Anning River and the Yalong River. It is located in a large fault zone, and the rocks are highly broken. It used to be an area with serious mudslides, landslides and soil erosion. It is common to see mountain instability along the road. Landslides fill the flood drainage ditch on the roadside, and sometimes the road surface is covered with sand, so you have to be careful and slow down.
After passing the 3430-meter Mopan Mountain, not far from the road, in a valley called Xinshaofang to Qiaotou Zhangjia, a large section of gravel road about ten kilometers long is being repaired and asphalted, and it has been delayed for half a year. many hours. Jinhe Township is not far away after passing the 1,300-meter Meimeigou Tunnel. The road conditions in Jinhe Township are flat and easy to walk. Jinhe Township Government is located in a small valley. The forest vegetation on the mountain is not very good, but the small villages and towns look fresh and natural.
After passing through Jinhe Township, the driveway spirals down along the creek, and the mountains on both sides become steeper. There is a long turning-back bay, bypassing the bend of the mountain, and suddenly flashes in front of you. A big river with steep slopes on both sides, mottled trees, clear and green stream, rushing forward, piled up with rocks at the bottom of the river, surging turbulence, and the Jinhe Bridge flying across the banks, the momentum is extraordinary. Let me tell you, you are already by the Yalong River.
After crossing the Jinhe Bridge on the Yalong River, you will arrive at Pingchuan Town. After crossing Pingchuan Town, we started to climb a big mountain. The name of the pass on the top of the mountain is Jinding. There are parking, water filling, car repair shops and small shops on the roadside at the entrance of Jinding. After crossing the mountain, it is all downhill. After passing Weicheng Town, after running for more than ten kilometers, you will arrive at Yanyuan County. The altitude of Yanyuan County is about 2,550 meters, and it takes about 135 kilometers from Xichang City to Yanyuan County, which takes 4 hours.
Yanyuan County is surrounded by high mountains and canyons, and the county seat is located in the central hilly basin, flat and open. Yanyuan County is the largest apple production base in Southwest China, and many mountainous areas along the road are full of apple trees. However, Yanyuan County is as homogeneous as other counties without much ethnic characteristics.
After lunch in Yanyuan County, we continued on our way. The road from Yanyuan County to the west to the east gate of Lugu Lake Scenic Area is about 115 kilometers, and it takes at least three hours. Leaving Yanyuan County, the highway goes west along the Yongning River Valley. The Yongning River is turbulent and has a large drop. Two cascade hydropower stations are currently being built. However, soil erosion in the basin is also serious, and the river water is abnormally turbid. Provincial Highway S307 overlaps with Provincial Highway S216 in Meiyu Town, Yanyuan County (S216 Provincial Highway is the provincial road from Yanyuan County to Panzhihua City, referred to as Yanpan Highway), and then continues to the southwest, about 20 kilometers away. At the mouth of the Chaqiu River, the S307 provincial road is separated from the S216 provincial road. Turn left on Provincial Highway S216 and go south along the Chaqiu River towards Panzhihua City. We continue on the S307 Provincial Highway and go straight to the west. Continue along the Meiyu River to reach Boda Township, then follow the Yantang River to cross Yantang Township, continue along the Jiami River and Yongning North to Changbai Township, Changbai Township is about 2100 meters above sea level, and after passing Changbai Township, it starts to slow down. Going uphill slowly, you will reach the archway at the east gate of Lugu Lake Scenic Area not far from Gaizu Township to the west. The altitude here is about 2710 meters. It took us seven hours and ten minutes from the time when we set off at 9:10 am in the urban area of Xichang City to the present.
Compared with the G5 Yaxi Expressway on the S307 Provincial Highway, it takes less than 300 kilometers to take the S307 Provincial Highway from Xichang City to Lugu Lake, but the time it takes is similar to that from Ya’an to Xichang. Places like the Jinhe Bridge on the Yalong River are very beautiful, but the two large sections of winding mountain roads are really exhausting, not to mention a large section of extremely bad roads that can only be crawled slowly at a speed of 20 to 30 kilometers per hour, which is a reminder to people. How difficult the Shu road used to be is what makes people praise the feat of the Yaxi Expressway.
A few tens of meters across the archway is the ticket office and tourist center at the east gate of Lugu Lake Scenic Area. After buying tickets for the scenic spot at the ticket office, each person will be presented with a Lugu Lake "Daughter Country" passport and then enter the scenic spot. Five kilometers further is the location of Luguhu Town. The bus that goes around Luguhu stops at the three-way intersection in Luguhu Town, and the long-distance bus station from Sichuan is also here.
After entering from the east gate of the scenic spot, according to the plan, in order to watch the sunrise tomorrow morning, we will stay in the west of Lugu Lake tonight. After entering the scenic spot, we started to tour counterclockwise along the road around the lake. Lugu Lake has a wide surface, and the lake water is pure and sweet, as transparent as a mirror. Waterfowl are playing in the lake, and occasionally there is a small boat in the lake, which adds agility to Lugu Lake.
Although it was afternoon when we entered Lugu Lake, the lake surface under the reflection of the sun and blue sky and white clouds was still colorful and breathtaking. The Mosuo people who have lived here for a long time are also immersed in the freedom and clarity of Lugu Lake, and they greet every tourist with a smile.
This is the first time I came to Lugu Lake. We drove slowly along the S307 Provincial Highway, admiring the scenery and customs on both sides of the road along the way. The first sight of Lugu Lake shocked me, and I kept stopping the car. Take pictures and play with grandchildren.
Lugu Lake is like a dream, like a dream, like a poem and a painting. It is clearly by your side and burned in your heart, but you don’t know how to express it... It seems that Lugu Lake is a mysterious place that can be understood but cannot be described. It is a place where it is easy for people to have whimsical ideas, more like a jar of old wine, once you touch it, you will be intoxicated.
Lugu Lake is located at the junction of Yanyuan County, Xichang City, Sichuan Province, and Ninglang County, Lijiang City, Yunnan Province, under the jurisdiction of both Sichuan and Yunnan. The northeast of the lake is under the jurisdiction of Luguhu Town, Yanyuan County, and the southwest of the lake is under the jurisdiction of Yongning Township, Ninglang County. However, the joint management of Sichuan and Yunnan is implemented in the scenic area, which unifies the management and service of tourism charges, and sets up a tourist reception center in Sichuan and Yunnan respectively, enclosing Lugu Lake Scenic Area. Buy the Lugu Lake joint ticket to enter the scenic spot, and you can play in the scenic spot all the time. Judging from the area of Lugu Lake, Sichuan accounts for about 40% of the total area, Yunnan accounts for about 60% of the total area, and the lake shoreline of Sichuan is about 30% longer than that of Yunnan. 2/2.
Lugu Lake has been built as a road around the lake, all paved with asphalt, and now you can drive around Lugu Lake very conveniently. The Huanhu Road in Sichuan is very flat, and there are many pedestrians on the road, some walking around, some riding around on bicycles, some riding around on motorcycles, battery cars and so on. The traffic department has placed dense speed bumps on its roads, telling you to slow down.
There is also a legend about the origin of Lugu Lake: According to legend, a long time ago, a young couple became immortals, but they could only go to heaven by riding a divine horse. The pair of immortals came to the northern Yunnan plateau together on a magical horse. They were fascinated by the scenery here and decided to live here. The beautiful girl is very kind-hearted. When she saw that the local poor were very pitiful, she extended her hand to help them, and she did not avoid suspicion of men and women. As a result, her lover got angry. After several quarrels, the lover rode up to the sky alone and left her. The moment the divine horse lifted off, the horse's hoof stepped out of a big pit on the plateau. Unexpectedly, the young man could not return to the world, and the girl could not go to heaven because she did not have a magic horse. So the girl was distraught, tears flowed, and the horseshoe pit was filled, and today's Lugu Lake was formed.
Unknowingly, we ran from the easternmost end of the lake to the westernmost end of the lake, ran another 26 kilometers, entered the territory of Yunnan Province, and circled half a circle around Lugu Lake. The sky was slowly getting dark, so we found an inn named "Lige Spring" on the lakeside under the S307 highway to stay.
It can be seen that the inn is still relatively large, clinging to the edge of Lugu Lake, and gently pushing open the window of the inn, a wide and pure lake will come rippling, and it will come straight to your eyes. In the twilight, with smoke and mist floating, the vast Lugu Lake is more empty, lonely, quiet and mysterious. The black rolling mountains in the distance are like winding dragons, embracing Lugu Lake.
In the restaurant on the first floor, I ate a special dinner of the Mosuo people. The restaurant was full of people, very lively. The owner of the inn is a Mosuo old man in his sixties.
The night at the lake was quiet, the lake was pitch black, and we bravely slipped out of the inn and came to the lake. From a distance, the large black stone gradually became clear, the dark blue lake water gently slapped the embankment, the water plants rolled up and down with the lake water, and a big willow tree on the embankment shed its withered yellow leaves and watched alone, with its hanging branches caresses my cheek. I sat on the boulder and stared at the lake without blinking, as if I had entered the artistic conception of Tang poetry and Song poetry...
Looking up at the starry sky, I seem to have stepped into a fairy tale world. Being here, the fatigue of the day is gone.
We wandered around Reagan, Rieger Bay and Rieger Peninsula and returned to the inn, the diners had all dispersed. The innkeeper heard us say that he had lived in his house in the past. He was a little happy, and told the story of his house with great interest. The boss and his family live in the mountains 6 kilometers away from Lugu Lake for decades. The boss happily introduced us to the history of the Mosuo people and the custom of walking marriage. Speaking of this, I saw the proprietress came out. The proprietress had just finished the work in the backyard. She was wearing very simple national costumes, but the gold rings, gold bracelets, and gold earrings on her hands looked elegant and luxurious. She is the real head of the family, with extraordinary conversation and domineering.
As soon as the proprietress came forward, the "boss" quickly fell silent. From a speaker to an audience, he also followed us to listen quietly. She introduced us to her family's two sons and a daughter. One son runs a business in Lijiang, and the other runs a supermarket in Banna. Only during the Spring Festival will he bring his grandson home to visit.
The proprietress is the head of the family. After the death of her mother, she is the head of the family, and she listens to all matters big and small. The land use rights in the Lige and Luoshui areas have long been allocated to the local Mosuo people, who then lease them out to tenants. After the tenants obtain the land use rights, they build houses on them and rent them out to shopkeepers for operation. The real local Mosuo people generally don't run their own business, they would rather go boating by themselves, although it may be a physical labor, but the income is quite considerable. Rent plus daily labor income, all the locals are invisible rich men.
As for the ethnic custom of walking marriage, the Mosuo people generally focus on intermarriage within the ethnic group, and seldom marry with other ethnic groups. The government only encourages, but does not compel the application of marriage certificates in accordance with the Marriage Law. Village committees and communities also respect ethnic customs and historical facts. But for families like the son who went out to work hard, married a daughter-in-law of another ethnicity, and married and had children in other places, they need to go through marriage registration procedures.
In fact, a marriage certificate is just a piece of paper, and family harmony is the best guarantee (we are surprised that she can say this, but agree). Now Lugu Lake is developing rapidly relying on the tourism industry. The local people attach great importance to protecting the ecological environment and sanitation of Lugu Lake. If anyone pollutes the lake water and destroys the environment, it is equivalent to blocking everyone's money, and it becomes people reporting and punishing them. Object.
The water of the lake is still crystal clear now. The level of education in the past was generally poor, and many of her generation were illiterate. When she was young, she worked in other people's inns. She learned Chinese and business management at the same time. What she learned is now in use. Now this inn is nominally the "property" of the eldest son, and the old couple are keeping the stall for their son! Nowadays, the learning conditions and environment for children are very good, but there are too many temptations from the outside world, such as bars, the Internet, mobile phones, and too many things to play, which have a great impact on young people.
Fortunately, the people of Mosuo are simple and simple, and the traditional family philosophy, ethics and morals are still well passed down. The education and influence on young people is still very good, and they can firmly resist gambling, sexual crimes, drugs, etc... talk Coincidentally, it was past midnight, and I wanted to watch the sunrise again the next day, so I had to stop and say goodnight to each other.
The rooms in the inn are all decorated with pine wood veneers. The original wood pattern is light and elegant, and the varnish is also well-made and feels very comfortable. Even the bottom of the shower facility is made of wood, which feels like a Finnish sauna. It's just that the wooden floor will make a friction sound when you step on it. Fortunately, we chose to live on the second floor, and there is no one downstairs.
The nearest route from Ya'an to Hugu Lake Scenic Area
01. Go directly to the Beijing-Kunming Expressway at each expressway toll station in Ya'an City (there are three toll stations available) (we take the Xikang Bridge toll station)
02. Drive 317 kilometers along the Beijing-Kunming Expressway, at the Ximu exit, turn right slightly to the ramp
03. Drive 970 meters along the ramp and go straight into the S307 Provincial Highway
04. Drive along the S307 provincial road for 11.7 kilometers, pass the Lebusheke on the right, and go straight into the Mopanshan Tunnel
05. Drive 3.3 kilometers along the Mopanshan Tunnel and go straight to the S307 Provincial Highway
06. Drive 12.3 kilometers along the S307 provincial road and enter the coal ditch tunnel
07. Drive 1.3 kilometers along the Meimeigou Tunnel and go straight to the S307 Provincial Highway
08. Drive 20.0 kilometers along the S307 provincial road and go straight to Yanhexia Street
09. Drive along Yanhexia Street for 1.4 kilometers, turn slightly right into Yanhe Shangjie
10. Drive along Yanhe Shangjie for 840 meters and go straight to S307 Provincial Highway
11. Drive 56.7 kilometers along the S307 provincial road and turn right
12. Drive 13.1 kilometers, go straight into Shuncheng Road
13. Drive along Shuncheng Road for 1.8 kilometers and go straight to S307 Provincial Highway
14. Drive 22.3 kilometers along the S307 provincial road, turn left and enter Tianbazi Road
15. Drive along Tianbazi Road for 200 meters, turn right in front and enter the S307 provincial road
16. Drive along the S307 Provincial Highway for 9.0 kilometers, pass the Chengmen Cave on the right, and go straight into Heiyantang Road
17. Drive 430 meters along Heiyantang Road and go straight to S307 Provincial Highway
18. Drive 45.3 kilometers along the S307 provincial road, pass the Zhuanshanping on the right for about 110 meters, and go straight into Changbai Road
19. Drive 450 meters along Changbai Road and go straight to S307 Provincial Highway
20. Drive along the S307 provincial road for 22.4 kilometers, enter the ticket office of the east gate of Lugu Lake Scenic Area about 70 meters on the right
(over)
