foreword
Travel notes three.
Last year, I planned to take the Sichuan-Tibet line. Because of a miscalculation of my own situation, I turned back when I walked to Xinduqiao. After less than a week of rest, I started the Qingan-Gansu Ring Road, a route with a suitable altitude. Autumn scenery in the Northwest.
In the name of the former glory of Mugu Silk Road, with the cherishment and admiration for cultural treasures, you can walk and see and feel.
Itinerary (12 days, 6000+ kilometers)
Day1 Chengdu-Jiangyou-Guangyuan-Xi'an (self-driving mileage: more than 700 kilometers, duration: 10-11 hours)
The whole journey is on the way, passing through countless tunnels along the way, passing the hometown of Shixian, the hometown of a generation of queens, and arriving in Xi'an when the lights are on.
I live in the Courtyard, except that there is no swimming pool, the others are no less than five-star, and the standard is very high. The location is good, close to the subway entrance, there are also supermarkets and restaurants around, and the hotel is also next to a cool and artistic Mall.
Day2 Xi'an-Xining (self-driving mileage: 800+ kilometers, duration: 11-12 hours)
When I went out, I felt the severe smog in the northwest. I walked all the way to Gansu to see the blue sky.
I also saw the frenzied traffic jam on the Fuyin Expressway (we took the Fuyin Expressway-Qinglan Expressway-Beijing-Tibet Expressway), my friends try to avoid it, and you can transfer from Lianhuo to Qinglan. Because after the past, we discovered that it was not a traffic jam caused by an accident at all, but a traffic jam at the toll station at the junction of the two provinces all the way for more than ten or twenty kilometers. The slow traffic efficiency is really speechless.
Staying in Wanfeng at night, regardless of dinner, if you are too tired to go out, you will eat what you bring. The hotel is very nice, but the location is biased, and the entrance and exit of the garage is more troublesome. It takes several hands to get in or out if the car is bigger. Like the buffet breakfast, the service is also very good.
Day3 Xining-Datong-Qilian Mountain (self-driving mileage: 40+ kilometers, duration: <1 hour, if it does not snow)
From Xining, take the Ningda Expressway for about 40 kilometers to reach Datong. If it is not snowing, it will take less than an hour.
This was an unplanned stop. It was just passing by, but God kept people away. When we arrived at noon, it was snowing heavily. National Highway 227 was blocked by snow, and Daban Mountain could not be crossed. I wanted to detour to Menyuan County by way of Provincial Highway 105, so I saw the rare invincible snow scene of the Qilian Mountains. Also, we had to turn back in the middle of the journey. After the heavy snowfall, the temperature on the shady side of the mountain cooled down and froze at three or four in the afternoon. We didn’t have snow chains, so we couldn’t walk in the second half of the road. Finally, we turned back to Datong and stayed overnight.
The hotel I found temporarily was just enough, the conditions were really not that good, luckily I didn't have a cold. There is also a copycat version of Star Papa next to it, haha. Of course, the most speechless thing is that there has been so much snow this day, and in the evening, the city has melted as if it had never fallen at all, and there is no snow at all.
The big plate chicken meal in Datong City at night is still very satisfying, the portion is full, and it is finally packed.
We tried the local food, yogurt, and wine as usual, and it felt pretty good. There are a chair and a bucket outside many residential quarters where they sell their own milk, serious yak milk (high in calories, but very mellow, and cheap). Unfortunately, we did not bring any tools for boiling milk. There is no problem of sterilization, and I am afraid that I will get angry if I drink it. It is a pity to miss it.
Generally speaking, Datong feels more comfortable and is a city with relatively reasonable prices. I saw the sales advertisement near the hotel, and it was only more than 5,000 square meters.
Day4 Datong - Dabanshan - Jiayuguan (self-driving mileage: 520+ kilometers, duration: 8-10 hours)
Laoxiguan Beef Noodles for breakfast is full of portions, about 10 yuan per person. (additional noodles are free until full)
We waited until noon before we set off for Daban Mountain again. It was estimated that the snow on the mountain had been cleared, so we let go directly. Take National Highway 227, cross Daban Mountain, and take Lianhuo Expressway.
Although the road surface was cleared, due to the two-way road blockade the day before, there was a huge backlog of vehicles. It took us 3-4 hours to fully pass this section, and the section of the tunnel on the top of the mountain was blocked for almost half an hour. The bend is too sharp, and the passing of large vehicles is very slow and difficult. On the way up and down the mountain, it is often necessary to stop to let the opposite large vehicles go first.
You still need to pay more attention when driving in the snow. We wore sunglasses all the way. If you look at the snow for a long time, your eyes can't bear it, and it is prone to danger.
On this day, I went straight to Jiayuguan. When I passed by Zhangye, I was photographed by a mobile speedometer. (Originally scheduled to settle down in Jiuquan the day before, and planned to go to Zhangye to see the colorful Danxia, Datong was delayed for a day, so all had to be cancelled)
We stayed in an old local four-star hotel. Although the facilities were outdated, it was close to the downtown area, so it was not a problem to find food. The only pitfall is that there is no heating, and the air conditioner is useless. Fortunately, an extra quilt was given.
The two went to Bao Fu Kee Beef Clear Soup Restaurant and ate two bowls of hot noodles.
Day5 Jiayuguan - Suspended Great Wall - The First Pier of the Great Wall - Dunhuang (self-driving mileage: 390+ kilometers, duration: 5 hours) (play duration: 6-8 hours)
The two-person set meal bought at Wumaier Beef Noodles for breakfast is enough for two strong men to overwhelm.
During the day, visit Jiayuguan City, the Cantilever Great Wall and the first pier of the Great Wall. The three scenic spots are not in a straight line. Friends who drive by themselves remember to plan the route. Generally, visit in this order.
They are all places with history, and the civilization of the ancient Silk Road has a long history. It is recommended to buy an audio guide even if you are looking at flowers on horseback. It is better to visit while listening to the explanation.
First stop: Jiayuguan City
Today, people are in it, watching the majestic pass and the long road, hearing about the gold and iron horses, and recalling the glorious years.
Second stop: Cantilever Great Wall
The third stop: the first pier of the Great Wall
It was dark again before arriving at Dunhuang. Although it is a tourist city, the price is very close to the people, and there are flying sculptures everywhere in the city.
Day6 Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes - Mingsha Crescent Lake (self-driving mileage: 50 kilometers, duration: 1-1.5 hours) (play duration: 7-8 hours)
When I checked in the day before, I was going to book tickets online. I was shocked when I saw the price. It cost three to four hundred per person to visit these two attractions, and my whole body felt bad instantly. In the end, I asked the lady at the front desk, and the lady said angrily, how can it be so expensive, Mogao Grottoes can be booked through the official account.
I drove to the Mogao Grottoes early in the morning, and took the scenic bus at the Digital Exhibition Center. Private cars are not allowed. The parking lot is very large, don't worry about not having a place, the parking fee is 10 yuan. The ticket includes the round-trip attraction bus fare.
The B category we bought, 4 caves and 3 exhibition halls, are all lined up for sightseeing. When queuing up, there are staff members repeating the content and allusions of the murals in this cave at the door.
These cultural heritages can only be described as shocking and breathtaking. It is not allowed to take pictures and speak loudly when entering the cave, because photographic flashlights and people's behavior of talking and breathing will affect the environment in the cave and aggravate the damage and disappearance of these murals.
Although the staff repeatedly reminded that there are always some people who don't care about it and want to violate discipline, they are very annoying. I really hope that some people will not be empty for a long time, just like those who are still spitting and littering in Jiuzhai Paradise .
The splendid heritage left by our ancestors has been accelerated by the passage of time and man-made loss. All we can do is to witness it while we can still see it, and do our best to protect and support them So that our descendants can still see them.
Here, I would like to request the little friends who read my travel notes, if you want to go here one day, or your relatives and friends, please remember that these things need us to protect them with civilized behavior.
It’s already noon when you come out from here to Mingsha Crescent Lake, and there are not many people. Tickets are purchased directly at the door. (When playing here, remember to prepare shoe covers that pierce the knees in advance, and make them firmer, otherwise the shoes will not be cleaned. We bought them temporarily before entering the gate of the scenic spot. After parking the car, there are shops all the way out. We bought them 2 pairs of shoe covers are 15 yuan, and the ones in the scenic area are more expensive) (parking here only costs 5 yuan)
This is also a magical place. If Mogao Grottoes is a man-made spectacle, then Crescent Lake must be a masterpiece of nature. The puddle of water that has existed in the desert for many years has never moved.
There are performances in the scenic area. If you don’t want to miss the performance, you must watch the time.
There are many recreational items in the scenic area, such as camel riding, sand car and so on. The camel is 100RMB/person. It is said to take you to the Crescent Lake, but it is not as fast as walking directly from the gate. The camel caravan has to be full to leave, and many times you have to wait in line. And just like in the photo, the camel is stopped after a short walk, and the camel is not allowed to dismount. The guide takes pictures of the tourists with their mobile phones and charges for them. There is no way to take pictures while riding.
This project depends on personal preference, anyway, I will not choose it again. At least an hour and a half wasted, and the saddle on the hunchback was very uncomfortable, which made it very difficult to climb the sandy slope later.
Mingsha Mountain has specially placed soft ladders on the sand dunes for tourists to climb. It is not recommended to climb wild roads. After all, the sand is not flat. It is super tiring to step back half a step, and it will be dangerous if you step on it incorrectly. Climbing to the top, you can find a better place to take a panoramic view of the Crescent Lake, and you have a feeling of seeing all the small mountains. Only when the wind is blowing and the sand is blowing, can I feel that I am really insignificant in the desert.
Dinner was at Ma's barbecue. I ordered noodles, stir-fried vegetables and skewers.
So far halfway through the journey, I still stay at Weilai J Hotel at night.
Day7 Dunhuang - Dachaidan Emerald Lake - Wanzhang Salt Bridge - Delingha (self-driving mileage: 700 kilometers, duration: 10-11 hours) (play time: 2-3 hours)
There is a section of potholed road that connects to Liuge Expressway via National Highway 215 and is nearly 10KM. It is super difficult to drive. I don’t know if the road surface has been repaired now. In addition, there is a dirt road of about 5KM to Emerald Lake. It is not very easy to drive, but it is better than the road condition mentioned above.
The Dachaidan we arrived at noon, and the Chuanshu Kitchen we ate in the town, the dumplings and wontons are also surprisingly large. Because it is the off-season, there are few people, the shop owner and the chef came to chat with us while we were eating. Dachaidan is a rich place. After all, there is a salt lake that can be mined. The roadsides are basically restaurants and hotels run by foreigners. In the past, the business here was booming in the summer, and the hotels can cost more than 1,000 a night.
The Emerald Lake, which I went to after dinner, was considered a natural scenic spot at the time, but I heard that the gate of the scenic spot was already being repaired, and fees would start soon. It was very windy that day, surrounded by snow-capped mountains, and the color of the lake was indescribable. Just two random photos taken with a mobile phone are fascinating. We stayed in the early two hours and couldn't get enough shots.
The next stop is the Wanzhang Salt Bridge, which is also a card for the name. If you are in a hurry, just drive to the tree sign to take pictures. I also met a super handsome military vehicle on the road.
The destination is Delingha. The altitude is high and the night is very cold. The decoration of the hotel is good. Unfortunately, the heating is not enough. It is enough to take a battle shower. It is better to include two breakfasts. The saddest thing is that after sleeping all night, the corners of my mouth got angry and blistered.
Day8 Delingha-Chaka-Qinghai Lake-Xining (self-driving mileage: 600+ kilometers, duration: 8.5-9.5 hours)
In 2018, I went to both Chaka and Qinghai Lake. This time, I basically just watched while driving, especially Qinghai Lake, where the absolute scenery is on the road.
When we arrived at Chaka, the weather was bad and the clouds were deep, so we didn’t go in due to limited time. When we went to Chaka in 2018, the ticket price was 80 per person. It’s best to go when the sky is blue and white clouds, because the mirror effect is the best. However, it is a good place to take pictures in the off-season, and there are too many people in the peak season. It is also good to buy a few bags of tea card salt and use it as a handicraft.
This road also passed Gahai Lake and Keke Salt Lake, both of which are beautiful, but unfortunately they are all on the side of the highway, unlike Qinghai Lake, where sometimes you can stop to take pictures.
Yan's pickled fish at Wanda Plaza at night was the most expensive meal of the trip.
Day9 Xining - Kumbum Monastery - Lanzhou - Yellow River (self-driving mileage: 300-km, duration: 4.5-5 hours) (play duration: 4-6 hours)
Kumbum Monastery is located in the Huangzhong District on the outskirts of Xining City. It is a very famous Tibetan Buddhist activity center in the northwest region. Tickets can be purchased directly at the local area. It takes at least 3-4 hours to visit here. It may not be open during the epidemic.
We didn't pick a time in advance, but luckily, we met the last day of the large-scale puja in September of the lunar calendar (the whole puja lasts for more than 2 hours). The large Tibetan-style building gives people a solemn feeling, and believers express their piety by kowtowing and donating all their own.
The thing that shocked me the most was the Ghee Flower Pavilion. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take pictures. The real art is a collective creation of believers with outstanding skills. The content varies from year to year, and the carving conditions are extremely difficult (the ghee must be condensed at a very low temperature. In order to carve, the sculptor must often dip his hands in ice water to keep the temperature of his fingertips extremely low), the whole completion process is a hard practice, which makes people have to admire deeply besides admiration.
Arrive in Lanzhou in the evening and stay at the Huange Hotel. The hotel has a very young atmosphere. It provides late-night snacks (22:00-23:00) and single breakfast (eat lunch directly for those who sleep late, and it is served until noon).
The hotel is in the downtown area. After dinner, I will look back and eat local snacks.
After dinner, go for a walk by the Yellow River. The night view here is also very distinctive.
If you have enough time here in Lanzhou, it is recommended to arrange 1-2 more days to play and feel the civilization of the Yellow River Basin. By the way, Lanzhou ramen is really good, there are many varieties, and I have learned a lot.
Day10 Lanzhou-Xi'an (self-driving mileage: 630+/800 kilometers, duration: 9-10 hours)
Hurry up and stay at Courtyard by Marriott Blue Sea Breeze at night.
Day11 Xi'an Terracotta Warriors and Horses - Huaqing Pool (self-driving mileage: 0) (play time: 7-9 hours)
Driving in Xi’an is too exciting, so I chose to take a taxi to the Terracotta Warriors and Horses in the morning (a little over 100 yuan), and then take the scenic shuttle bus from the Terracotta Warriors and Horses to Huaqing Pool, and transfer to the subway to return to the hotel (less than 10 yuan for two people).
First stop: Terracotta Army (play time: 3-4 hours)
The second stop: Huaqing Pool (play time: 4-5 hours)
The scenic spot is mainly divided into three parts: related to the Xi'an Incident, related to the bathing of the ancients, and related to performances.
There are programs to watch in the Hall of Eternal Life, but it is a pity that there is a long queue.
There are large-scale performances on the water stage. To watch them at night, tickets need to be purchased separately. It is best to watch the rare friends. It is worthwhile to visit.
In addition, there are still many places worth visiting in Xi'an, such as the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Muslim Street, Drum Tower and other iconic and distinctive places.
Day12 Xi'an-Chengdu (self-driving mileage: about 800 kilometers, duration: 9.5-11 hours)
return trip
PS: The several scenic spots planned in the original itinerary must be added next time. The section from Xining to Jiuquan: Dafo Temple, Colorful Danxia Scenic Spot; the section from Jiuquan to Jiayuguan: Fazhu Temple, East Lake; Jiayuguan to Dunhuang Section: Yumenguan, Millennium Populus euphratica Forest, Yangguan, Dunhuang Airport (seen along the way, a little miniature).
Attraction tickets
1. Daban Mountain
There is a special viewing platform on Daban Mountain. Fortunately, it is unfortunate that it is snowing. It depends on how you see it. When the weather is fine, according to the itinerary of the day, you can climb over Daban Mountain to Qingshizui Town for dinner, and then arrive at Zhangye or Jiuquan.
2. Qilian Mountains
Continuous, regardless of whether it is snowing or not, the road is full of scenery.
3. Jiayuguan City, the Cantilever Great Wall, the first pier of the Great Wall (110RMB/person)
4. Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes (100RMB/person)
Make an appointment 1 day in advance, and most people book B-type tickets (100RMB/person). When we go, we will play 4 caves (half-day tour), and A-type tickets are more expensive, and we can see 8 caves. During the epidemic period, only class B tickets were sold, but 8 caves were open. The specific tour rules were different from ours at that time, but the limit was 1,800 tickets per day. Friends who are going to go read the instructions on the official account in advance.
5. Mingsha Crescent Lake (110RMB/person)
There are not many people coming at noon, climbing Mingsha Mountain, watching Crescent Lake, and some folk performances.
6. Dachaidan Emerald Lake
The rare original ecological salt lake is so beautiful that it is different from Chaka Salt Lake.
7. Wanzhang Salt Bridge
8. Chaka Salt Lake
Absolutely a holy place for wedding photos! Friends who plan to travel and shoot, you can try here, the morning, afternoon, and night are different scenery. It is recommended to stay in Qingyan No. 2 Hotel in the off-season (it seems to be from November to the end of April of the following year), which is near the entrance of the scenic spot, and you can enter and exit the scenic spot multiple times a day. Just do not accept online booking, it is best to call.
9. Qinghai Lake
No matter how many times you go to a place, the scenery is like an oil painting, and autumn is the most beautiful. The large and small unknown lakes and colorful meadows reflect the blue sky and white clouds. No camera can record these natural scenery.
10. Kumbum Monastery (70RMB/person)
11. Lanzhou Yuantong Yellow River Bridge
12. Lanzhou Zhongshan Bridge
13. Xi'an Terracotta Warriors and Horses, Huaqing Pool (package ticket price 220RMB/person)
There is a shuttle bus between the two scenic spots, 10RMB/person
Catering and accommodation
Day1
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Hotel buffet
Accommodation: Courtyard by Marriott Xi'an Blue Sea Breeze
Day2
Breakfast: Hotel buffet
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Bring your own dry food
Accommodation: Fairfield by Marriott Xining
Day3
Breakfast: Hotel buffet
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Xinjiang Tacheng Large Plate Chicken (78RMB)
Accommodation: Datong Rujia Hotel
Day4
Breakfast: Laoxiguan Beef Noodles (21.5RMB)
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Bao Fu Ji Beef Clear Soup Restaurant (50RMB)
Accommodation: Jiayuguan Hotel
Day5
Breakfast: Wumaier Beef Noodles (16.38RMB)
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Dangji Yellow Noodles with Donkey Meat (62RMB)
Accommodation: Dunhuang Weilai J Hotel
Day6
Breakfast: bring your own dry food
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Mashi BBQ (88RMB)
Accommodation: Dunhuang Weilai J Hotel
Day7
Breakfast: bring your own dry food
Lunch: Dachai Dan Chuanshu Kitchen (36RMB)
Dinner: I can’t remember clearly, a street food, hot and sour rice noodles are super spicy, and the price is high
Accommodation: Delingha Blue Sky Quality Hotel
Day8
Breakfast: Hotel buffet
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Yan’s Pickled Fish in Wanda Plaza, Xining (215RMB)
Accommodation: Fairfield by Marriott Xining
Day9
Breakfast: bring your own dry food
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Looking Back in Lanzhou (40RMB)
Accommodation: Huange Hotel, Lanzhou
Day10
Breakfast: Hotel buffet
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Hotel buffet
Accommodation: Courtyard by Marriott Xi'an Blue Sea Breeze
Day 11
Breakfast: Hotel buffet
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
Dinner: Hotel buffet
Accommodation: Courtyard by Marriott Xi'an Blue Sea Breeze
Day12 (return to Chengdu)
Breakfast: Hotel buffet
Lunch: Bring your own dry food
other considerations
1. Mobile speed measurement: Violations outside the province were only found on the 12315 APP in May this year. It was speeding in Gansu. The location angle seems to be taken by mobile speed measurement, near Zhangye. Navigation must be turned on throughout the journey, and don’t just pay attention to places with cameras, as many mobile speed tests are hard to detect.
2. Necessary items: sunscreen, moisturizing mask, sun hat, dust-proof face towel or scarf, sunglasses, hiking shoes, selfie stick, power bank, change, instant food, Red Bull + coffee.
3. When visiting the Mogao Grottoes, do not talk loudly or take pictures in the caves.
4. Going to Kumbum Monastery, most of the interior of the temple and Buddha statues are not allowed to take pictures. It is very impolite to see believers who are laying mats and bowing their heads. Don't stare at them.
5. When booking a hotel, remember to check the time limit for cancellation and change, do a good job in Plan B, and deal with the impact of weather changes on the itinerary in a timely manner.
6. For places like Kumbum Monastery, Terracotta Army, and Huaqing Palace, if the budget is ok, it is better to ask a tour guide to explain. The electronic tour guide will only give some explanations for some typical scenic spots, but if you invite a tour guide, you will have the opportunity to hear many fresh stories.
Total cost
Tickets: 1355RMB
Board and lodging: 2478RMB
Fuel fee and high-speed fee: 4705RMB
Others: 703RMB
Total cost: 9241RMB
