D1-12.1: Arrive in Kunming, visit Golden Horse and Jade Rooster, taste Kunming delicacies, rent a car
D2-12.2: Self-drive Kunming - Maitreya, visit Keyi Ancient Village, Dongfengyun Town, Honghe Winery, and enjoy Maitreya's private hot spring
D3-12.3: Self-drive Maitreya-Mengzi, visit Bisezhai, the filming location of "Fang Hua", and taste authentic cross-bridge rice noodles
D4-12.4: Visit Nanhu Park, visit the site of Southwest Associated University, self-drive Mengzi-Yuanyang Rice Terraces
D5-12.5: Yuanyang terraced fields and other fog cleared, enjoy the pastoral scenery
D6-12.6: Sunrise at Duoyishu Terraces, Xunai Chunlan Terraces, Laoyingzui Red Terraces, Quanfuzhuang Terraces, drive Yuanyang-Jianshui
D7-12.7: Visit Jianshui Ancient City, Jianshui Seventeen-Arch Bridge, chase Tuanshan train, drive Jianshui-Fuxian Lake
D8-12.8: Enjoy the time of the Internet celebrity inn by the lake, self-drive Fuxian Lake-Kunming Airport, return the car, return
Colorful Yunnan, a place that people say "I want to go more than once", in addition to the well-known Lijiang with a thousand-year-old reputation as an ancient city, Dali surrounded by Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake, Kunming with four seasons like spring, and Shangri-La, a paradise on earth, there is also a place with a long history, The beautiful Honghe Prefecture lives in the mysterious hills and has a rare simplicity and original ecology. The mountains and rivers contain rich and profound humanistic customs. It is known as "the commercial port in southern Yunnan" and "the famous state of literature". It has a good reputation and has tasted delicious food on the tip of the tongue. It is a niche travel destination where the eyes, body and mouth are all in heaven. Especially in December, the terraced fields in Yuanyang entered the flooding period. The terraced fields in the flooding period are like countless pieces of mirrors, broken on the ground, reflecting the sky, and truly recording every sunrise and sunset, and every piece of cloud rolling and relaxing. In the off-season in the golden season of Yang, we will go to the southwest with some friends.
December 1
Arrive in Kunming at noon, the subway goes directly to the hotel, free in the afternoon, first ride a shared bicycle to the nearby Golden Horse and Jade Rooster. The Golden Horse and Jade Rooster Archway is exquisitely carved and painted, which is a symbol of Kunming. It was first built in the Ming Dynasty and has a history of nearly 400 years. Although there are many tall buildings and mansions around, this does not conceal the brilliance of the two squares, which are only a dozen meters high. .
In the evening, my friend arrived at the airport, and the car rental company met me after picking up the car, and went straight to Laodian Village to taste Yunnan ethnic specialties. The fresh fish is tender, the purple yams are deep-fried and crispy, the coconut-flavored glutinous rice chicken is soft and glutinous, and the stir-fried yellow beef is tender and refreshing.
December 2
Starting from Kunming, we did not follow the expressway directly to the city of Mile, but turned into the depths of the mountains, looking for the hidden ancient village of Keyi. At the end of the winding mountain road, there are khaki villages built on the mountain The houses come into view, and the green trees are well-arranged. If you say hello to the security guards and tell you to come to the village for dinner, you can drive directly into the village without tickets. Park the car in front of the Keyi Impression Restaurant, and let the beautiful Yi ethnic proprietress help us slow down first. Slowly stewing the local native chicken, we wandered around the village.
Keyi, in the Axi language of the Yi nationality, means "auspicious place". 99.6% of the aborigines are Axi people, a branch of the Yi nationality. The birthplace of "Yue" (dancing around a bonfire under the moonlight) has a history of more than 360 years and has been rated as "the most beautiful leisure village in China". Surrounded by mountains, the environment is quiet, the folk customs are simple, away from the hustle and bustle, and a pool of clear water adds a bit of aura, just like a paradise on earth...
Walking among them, I found that the walls of every household are covered with corn and peppers. They can be dried and eaten, and they are also unique decorations in rural areas, filled with the joy of harvest in autumn.
Of course, the most eye-catching thing in the village is the vivid wall paintings. The murals on the khaki-yellow walls are lifelike and vivid, depicting the daily life of Axi people. Wall paintings are used for publicity, and Alibaba’s Taobao elements can be seen everywhere, as if to build itself into a modern Taobao village, to facilitate the villagers’ modern life, and at the same time bring the village’s special products out of the mountains and to the whole country. Every day at noon, there should be villagers singing and dancing performances in the square, but because of the epidemic and the off-season we didn't enjoy it, so we had to go back to the restaurant.
The restaurant is a quaint small courtyard, decorated with ethnic flavors, basking in the warm sunshine, eating mellow local chicken pot, we chatted casually with the proprietress, and enjoyed the lazy time at noon.
Leaving the ancient village of Keyi, on the way to Maitreya, you can see the Maitreya Buddha on the top of the hill (borrowed from the picture) from a distance. Provence" oriental charm.
Pass through the lake area and go straight to the sea of flowers on the hillside. Every sleeper of the imitated "meter-gauge railway" here is engraved with "I love you" in multiple languages, making people feel that every step they take is like a confession , beautiful and romantic, although it cannot pass through the train, it is like a love railway that goes straight into people's hearts.
Moving forward, buildings made of red bricks appear in front of you, like works of art growing from the red soil, with the color of Western magicism.
The core of Dongfeng Charm is the Kaleidoscope Art Manor, which was designed and constructed by Luo Xu, a local sculpture artist of Maitreya. The design concept comes from "kaleidoscope". Made of red bricks, the exterior is a building shaped like a wine bottle. The lighting on the roof and four walls of the pavilion is designed according to the characteristics of the Mitsubishi mirror in the kaleidoscope. The brick is used as the tube and the window is used as the mirror. Different, the light in the museum will also change the beauty of light and shadow accordingly. The fairy-tale castle exudes a strong exotic style, which amazes everyone's eyes, especially against the blue sky and white clouds. It is even more charming, and people are amazed at the designer's whimsy, which turned a pile of messy red bricks into such a wonderful work of art.
"Legs" is also a very important part of Luo Xu's works. They are called "Dongfeng Venus". The plump and sexy peach buttocks, smooth long legs, and exquisite and graceful pointed feet are indeed full of imagination!
Maitreya is known as the "Hometown of Red Wine in Yunnan". It is located just near the Tropic of Cancer, with an average altitude of 1880 meters. The unique environment of low latitude and high altitude is very suitable for grape growth. Every summer when grapes mature, the air is everywhere. Filled with the rich aroma of grapes, before the sun set, we came to the nearby Yunnan Red Winery (need to buy tickets, free wine tasting explanation, tickets can be deducted when buying wine), and walked into the winery under the guidance of the guide , the garden is full of verdant trees, verdant trees, fresh air, and beautiful environment. Under the bright sunshine of the Yunnan Plateau, the cartoon-shaped red alcohol scattered in the garden is charmingly naive, cute and lively. Walking in the winery, you will not be surprised at all. It makes people feel that this is a production enterprise, more like a beautiful manor enjoying life...
The statue of the "Goddess of Red Wine" carrying the dreams and hopes of Yunnan Red is the image of the elves of the Hani and Yi ethnic groups transformed into the wine god of Yunnan Red Winery, dancing joyfully with grapes and fine wine in their hands. It is said that there is wine hidden under the "Goddess of Red Wine". The 100 bottles of wine produced by the village in 1997 will not be opened until 100 years later.
The sculpture "Spirit of the Plateau" reflects the history of red wine in Yunnan. Mitreya had been planting grapes as early as the 1960s. In 1958, Maitreya Dongfeng Farm introduced black grapes, crystals and other varieties for trial planting. In 1990, Dongfeng Farm's black grapes, After the identification of authoritative botanists, it was confirmed that it is one of the oldest wine-making varieties in France, rose honey. According to experts' research in the early 21st century, rose honey has degenerated and become extinct in France, and the vineyard of Mile is the only one that retains the ancient and fine wines of France. Vineyards of the grape variety Rose Honey.
The "Nantian No. 1 Village" here is the largest oak barrel wine cellar in southern China. The oak barrels are imported from France and can accommodate 5,000 standard oak barrels. The wine storage capacity reaches 1,200 tons. Walking into the wine cellar is like walking into the In a luxuriously decorated castle, thousands of oak barrels store mysterious vintage wines, and there is an exclusive room for wine tasting. The rich and intoxicating aroma of wine can be smelled everywhere. At the end of the tour, we came to the tasting area. The wine tasting process was not humanized enough, but here you can buy some special varieties that are not available in the market. Most of the wine can be bought in Maitreya streets and alleys. The price is equal, and women prefer it. For grape juice and sparkling wine, men prefer Yunnanhong's original grape spirits, which are smooth in the mouth, full-bodied, fragrant on the lips and teeth, with a long aftertaste and endless aftertaste.
Hot spring hotels can be seen everywhere near the Huquan Ecological Park in the urban area. When you come to Maitreya, you will unconsciously slow down your pace. There is no impetuousness in the city, and there are no passers-by in a hurry. My heart calmed down, and I would rather stop time at this moment and choose a private soup to enjoy. Although it is not as good as the Japanese hot spring town, it is still a good vacation spot.
When you come to Maitreya, you must taste the local delicacy Maitreya stewed chicken. The history can be traced back hundreds of years ago. Local Chinese medicine skillfully applied traditional Chinese medicine to food cooking, and continuous improvement has led to today's stewed chicken. But our luck is a little bit Not good, it was just sold out just in time. Fortunately, the big brother at the next table gave us a generous gift, so we were able to taste it. The skin is smooth and shiny, which not only maintains the original flavor of the chicken, but also releases the taste of traditional Chinese medicine, making its texture and taste reach the to the extreme.
December 3
After breakfast, take a walk in the Huquan Ecological Park. The fragrance of flowers and the singing of birds are permeated in the clear air. Every step is a scene, and occasionally there is a breeze, gently touching the skin. The ecological garden far away from the hustle and bustle of the city is surrounded by mountains and water. It is picturesque, the white sandy beach is inlaid on the lake, like a silver ribbon, and there is also a hot spring swimming pool where you can swim up and down a few times. I really want to rent a cottage here for a while and enjoy the slowness of Maitreya Life.
From Maitreya to Mengzi, the most unmissable thing is the romantic mini "Oriental Little Paris" - Bisezhai, which is one of the main filming locations of the movie "Fang Hua". Tickets are free, but the gate of the scenic spot has been expanded. The battery car enters. In 1901, France, which obtained the right to build the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway, began to lay meter gauges with a spacing of 1 meter. The opening of the entire Yunnan-Vietnam Railway in 1910 marked the birth of the first international artery in modern China, and nearly 80,000 laborers died because of this. There are Chinese souls under every sleeper.” In 1936, the Gebishi Railway was completed. This is the first private commercial railway in China. The inch-gauge is only 0.6 meters, and the design speed is 25 kilometers per hour, making it the slowest train. The strange sayings "there is no connection between domestic and foreign countries" and "the train is not as fast as the car" are all accurate descriptions of these two railways. The former gave it life and prosperity, and the latter became its dignity and pride. During the self-defense counterattack against Vietnam, Mengzi sounded the clarion call for troops, and Bisezhai became an important channel for transporting the sick and wounded and supplies, recording the iron-blooded demeanor of a generation of youth and an indelible memory of the Republic.
Today, only three or four trucks pass by Bisezhai in a corner every day. On a small land with a radius of two square kilometers, there are 86 Western-style buildings and 11 national-level cultural relics protection units, which vaguely retain the style of a hundred years ago. The station is like an old man with a story, quietly enjoying the loneliness, hiding all the magnificence, the yellow walls and red tiles tell the vicissitudes of time, silently welcoming the coming and going of cold and hot, mottled walls, The painted wooden door, the dial of the French clock is still clearly outlined, but the hands are no longer running, the benches on the platform are no longer the waiting eyes, and the Tropic of Cancer sign in front of the duty room door will be ignored if you don’t pay attention... …Everything here does not require filters or color adjustments. You can feel the leisurely atmosphere of literature and art with just one shot. It seems that I have also transformed into the hot-blooded youth of the past when I put on the old-style military uniform and tie the red rope pigtails. , Traveling back to those passionate youthful years!
Crossing Bridge Rice Noodles has a history of more than 100 years. In September 2009, Mengzi was also officially named the "Hometown of Crossing Bridge Rice Noodles in China". Some people once said that Mengzi's economy is not as good as Maitreya, and its cultural heritage is not as good as Jianshui. The scenery is not as good as that of Yuanyang, and the only memory is the cross-bridge rice noodles. Eating a large bowl of the most authentic chrysanthemum cross-bridge rice noodles is the correct way to open Mengzi. You can suck the soup, meat and rice noodles into your mouth together. Then carefully take a sip of the soup. The delicious and mellow taste lingers in your mouth, which will definitely satisfy your taste buds. The big sea bowl, the wooden bridge with the saucer, and the heroic spirit... are unforgettable!
The "small park" with a story is to Mengzi, just like Green Lake is to Kunming, and West Lake is to Hangzhou. This is the real birthplace of cross-bridge rice noodles, and it is also the frequent gathering place for professors and students of Southwest Associated University. After tasting the rice noodles across the bridge, it is a great pleasure to go to Nanhu Lake at night. The lights on both sides of the bank are beautiful, the breeze is coming, it is comfortable and comfortable, and the charm of the small town is fully revealed!
December 4
In the early morning, a bowl of hot rice noodles started the whole day, and we walked across the South Lake to the former site of Southwest Associated University. In 1938, due to the lack of school buildings in Kunming, the Standing Committee of the Southwest Associated University decided to establish a Mengzi branch campus. The School of Liberal Arts and the School of Law and Business were located in Mengzi, and the first literary club, Nanhu Poetry Club, was established. Zhu Ziqing and Wen Yiduo Although the two professors served as their mentors for only half a year, it was this small town in southern Yunnan and the beautiful South Lake that gave them temporary tranquility during the years when the smoke was raging everywhere. Strolling along the lake, French-style buildings come into view. The old site of Mengzi Customs, the French Consulate, Gelushi Foreign Firm and Zhou Baizhai’s "Yilou" are all the old sites of Southwest Associated University Mengzi Campus. The curved sign wall The school motto of Southwest Associated University is still engraved with "Fortitude and Perseverance". In the yellow and white French-style building, we feel the prosperity and pain of the past, recall the past, and recall the glorious years.
Leaving Mengzi, we began to enter the mountainous area. There are a lot of fruit markets on the roadside, which is a good place to take a break. As the altitude continues to rise, the fog in the mountains begins to gather. Sometimes the clouds are so deep that the visibility is less than five meters, and sometimes the clouds The fog dissipated, but the good times didn’t last long, and the clouds and fog swept us in again, covering us in layers of mist. As the saying goes, “a mountain is divided into four seasons, and the sky is different for ten miles.” In this way, we moved forward cautiously and with difficulty, and finally arrived at Dayu For lunch in Tangcun, Huawowo Hani Local Vegetable Restaurant is in the same series as the inn we are about to stay in. The storefront is very stylish. The rice flower fish soup in terraced fields is fresh and tender. Fragrant, the special red rice is soft and fragrant. The rice grown in this terraced field is red rice, which is like brown rice and has a hard texture. We bought some on the side of the road and took it home. We mixed it with rice and cooked it. The grains are distinct and very tasty.
It is no exaggeration to say that Honghe is a sanctuary of terraced fields. There are 1 million mu of terraced fields spread across the four counties of Yuanyang, Honghe, Jinping, and Lvchun in Honghe Prefecture. There are 170,000 mu of terraced fields in Yuanyang, where the wisdom and wisdom of the Hani people have been used from generation to generation for 1300 years. The fairyland on earth created by hard work, they reclaimed the mountains into layers of flat land, as if holding a magic pen, when reclaiming, they did not forget to draw poetic curves, layer upon layer, majestic, and carved out the most beautiful and spectacular terraced fields Landscape, "unintentionally planting willows and willows into shade", Hani people's survival wisdom has become a peerless scenery in the eyes of outsiders who stumbled in by mistake. In 1995, a Frenchman came here by accident and faced the ten thousand acres that suddenly appeared in front of him. The terraced fields were so shocked that they couldn’t close their mouths from ear to ear for a long time. Yuanyang terraced fields broke into the eyes of the world. Photographers from all walks of life couldn’t wait to come here to collect scenery. The French independent landscape documentary "Sculptor of the Mountains" made it famous all over the world. Thousands of Chinese and foreign tourists come here especially to watch the sunrise and sunset of the terraced fields, listen to the stories of the Hani people, and stroll on the tiered ridges (some pictures borrowed).
Duoyishu Terraced Fields is 1,900 meters above sea level. It is famous as the "Holy Land for Sunrise". It is also the core area where the Honghe Hani Terraced Fields applied for World Heritage. At the forefront, the angle of watching the sunrise and the sea of clouds is invincible, without any shelter. The inn’s well-designed terrace yard, roof viewing platform, stepped landscape windows, etc. are very creative, and there are three cute and cute resident kittens, Open your eyes to watch the sunrise, turn over to enjoy the terraced fields, and the view room made us very happy. You don’t need to go to the scenic spot at all, just stay in the inn, sipping wine, drinking tea, stroking the cat, basking in the sun, and looking at the terraced fields Going up to the clouds and rolling clouds, enjoying the quiet time, this is a day like a fairy! The inn has a special parking lot on the side of the road. When you arrive at the hotel, call the store. The store will arrange Hani girls to carry the luggage on the back for the guests. The narrow cottage alleys, the mountain roads are not too steep, and the village is completely original. It feels more like the poultry and pigs are the masters here. When you walk to the end, it suddenly becomes clear that it is our inn.
It is said that there will be more than 200 days of fog in a year. Before we arrived at the inn, it was still surrounded by clouds and fog, but not long after we stayed, the miraculous clouds cleared and the fog cleared, and the Duoyishu terraced fields gradually showed their true appearance. Different scenes are being interpreted every minute. I can see that three sides face the mountain and one side falls into the valley. It is like a big bay with a gentle upper part and a steep lower part. The beauty of terraced fields is inseparable from the backdrop of water. Ultimately, under the sunlight, the light and shadow changes are unbelievably beautiful. Unfortunately, the beautiful scenery is always short-lived. Before we have time to recover from the admiration, the clouds and mist come back again, and there is a white mist outside the window. , chasing the sunset will become a bubble, we have to stay in the inn to rest, waiting for a good scene tomorrow.
December 5
Good luck doesn’t always follow, I got up to check when the sky was getting dark, it was pitch black outside, it seemed that there was still sporadic light rain, the sunrise was hopeless, I continued to catch up on sleep, but when we went downstairs to eat breakfast, the sun stubbornly came from the thick In the misty morning light, the sun shines on the paddy fields one by one. The terraced fields are like broken mirrors, reflecting the blue sky. The sea of clouds rises continuously from the valley, and the white The cotton ball rolled bigger and bigger, and the sun disappeared in an instant, leaving us sighing secretly. The red rice noodles and red rice porridge for breakfast in the inn are delicious, and there are simple home-cooked dishes for dinner. Although the variety is not as rich as that in restaurants, it feels like home.
Every winter, there is always smog here, and sometimes there is no sunshine for many days, full of a mysterious atmosphere, and it is the same today, after a short period of sunshine, the rolling terraces appear and disappear in the mist Thick fog and thick clouds entangled and huddled together, covering the sky and covering the earth, hiding the scattered terraced fields in the distance, covering the silent cottages nearby, and swallowing the intermittent crowing and barking of chickens and dogs. It feels like being in a fairyland. It must be old. The sky is deliberately holding back, preparing to give us a golden tomorrow, so it’s better to let it come, and we started to pose for pictures in the inn, killing time aimlessly.
Since we don’t have the chance to see the beautiful scenery, it’s better to pay attention to the delicious food. At noon, we walked to the Hani Huotang restaurant in the mist. We had long coveted the fat ducks in the terraced fields, and we discussed asking the chef to stew the whole duck for us, and shared it with the travel companions we just met at the next table. Terraced fields The duck soup is rich, the duck meat is firm and chewy, and the fried pork ribs with lemongrass is the signature of the store. It is crispy and crunchy, with a unique aroma of lemongrass... The time to stew the duck is relatively long, and we are lazy around the stove Roasting on the fire, chatting with the chef, and buying a lot of smoked bacon from him before leaving.
The little travel companion at the next table who had just shared the perfect meal yelled to go back to the inn to drink and play with us, but when we returned to the inn, the scene from yesterday afternoon was repeated. Yelling, shouting was not in vain, and after another shutter shot, the clouds brought us back to the quiet atmosphere again.
December 6
The pious heart finally waited for the sunrise, the clouds and mists gradually dispersed, and the mountains in the distance began to slowly reveal light. The beautiful outline of the terraced fields loomed in the morning light, like an ink painting with thick ink and light colors. I set up the tripod and set it up. Automatic time-lapse shooting, capturing the light and shadow of clouds and fog in seconds. Clouds and mist are like water, and terraced fields are like God’s palette, reflecting the color of the sky, changing gorgeous light and shadow, from dark red to purple, from purple to light blue, until the blue sky is full, the blue light and shadow are instant The large terraced fields covered with Duoyi trees are magnificent. The sun finally jumped into the sky from the back of the mountain. The sun shines on the water surface of the terraced fields. Gorgeous rhetoric to describe the land of Yuanyang is useless. Even photographers who live in this land cannot perfectly show all of it. Even the three cute cats in the inn, although they are used to The sunrise and sunset here, but also excited with us.
Reluctantly saying goodbye to the inn, we drove to several characteristic terraced fields nearby. The first thing we came to was the Aichun Terraced Fields. The mirror of the sky, the angle of light and shadow before ten o'clock in the morning, the terraced water can just reflect the blue of the sky, the water and the sky are the same color, like a dream. Standing on a high place, looking around, there are blue sky and white clouds above, and blue terraced fields below, like hada strips, comfortable and comfortable, with layers of terraced fields, waves of light, and farmhouses in the distance, located in the middle of the forest clouds, curling up The smoke from cooking, the blue terraced fields, and the erratic sea of clouds constitute a beautiful picture like a fairyland.
The nearby Azheke refers to the most prosperous and auspicious small place according to its literal meaning. The original mushroom house is preserved here, which is the traditional dwelling of the Hani people in Azheke Village. Azheke Village is also a world cultural heritage Honghe Hani Heritage One of the five heritage villages in the district. These houses are built along with the mountain, and they look like mushrooms from a distance. The water conservancy system in the village uses the drop of the hillside to guide water to each house, which is natural. I used to take pictures here (some of the pictures were borrowed).
Passing through the lively Shengcun market, we came to the colorful terraced fields of Laoyingzui. This is a small secret place that best interprets "the most beautiful mountain carving". Looking from a distance, the terraced fields on the open hillside are magnificent, with layers upon layers of terraced fields, like bright mirrors, dazzlingly bright. The colors are changing, especially the blood-red terraced fields are very eye-catching, red duckweed, green water plants, blue sky, yellow ridges, colorful, this red is actually red algae floating on the water surface of the field, which is the favorite of ducks and geese. love food. There is only one natural viewing platform here, and below it is a cliff more than 100 meters deep. Standing on the edge of the steep cliff, the mountain wind is whistling, and you can look far away. On the top of the opposite mountain are densely packed village houses in Xinjie Town, facing the cliff Overlooking, the Qianpi terraced fields are layer upon layer, dazzling the eyes, the sky is shining, the sun is shadowing, the color pool is shaking, and there are a few wisps of mist floating in the sky from time to time, and it will be more colorful at sunset.
The Bada Terraces are spectacular, with beautiful lines and a strong three-dimensional sense. It is the largest area in the Hani Terraced Fields Scenic Area, and it is also the terrace with the largest drop. From the valley at an altitude of more than 900 meters to the top of the mountain at an altitude of more than 2,000 meters, there are more than 3,700 steps. Layer upon layer, straight up to the sky, especially at sunset, the terraced fields constitute a unique rhythm on the earth, ups and downs, curves and straightness, overlooking from a height, it is like a waterfall pouring down, very spectacular. But because we didn’t buy tickets for the past two days, and we had to go to Jianshui that day, we gave up our plan to go to Bada, and just borrowed Zhang Meitu from the Internet to feel it, otherwise it would be easy to get tired of aesthetics.
Yuanyang terraced fields, the gentle clouds on the stairs, the sea of clouds under the feet is churning, the water waves are swaying around, and the mirror that is broken on the ground is shining in the distance, but the villages of the Hani people are scattered in front of them, and it is hard to tell where is the sky. Where is the world, the bright red of the Laoyingzui terraced fields, the pure blue of the Aichun terraced fields, and the spectacular sunrise and cloud sea of the Duoyishu terraced fields are breathtaking!
Speaking of the ancient city of Yunnan, people only know Dali and Lijiang, but they don’t know that there is Jianshui. They don’t know that during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, there was a saying “Golden Lin’an, Silver Dali”. The Lin’an here is not Lin’an, Zhejiang, but Jianshui before the Republic of China. The name, the millennium Lin'an ancient city was once the political, economic, cultural and military center of southern Yunnan. Its economic prosperity and cultural development are far beyond the imagination of modern people. An ancient building, known as the "Museum of Ancient Architecture" and "Museum of Folk Houses". Saying goodbye to the Yuanyang terraced fields, we headed down the mountain to the ancient city of Jianshui under the scorching sun. As long as we entered the boundary of the ancient city, we felt wrapped in its mellow and dense atmosphere, and couldn’t help being fascinated by it. The magnificent Chaoyang Tower, the third largest building in China The Confucian Temple, the "Zhu Family Garden" known as the Grand View Garden in southern Yunnan, the rare imperial examination room in China, the academic and political examination sheds, the ancient wells that are still in use throughout the ancient city, the purple pottery workshops that can be seen everywhere, and the small trains accompanied by rice gauges The Seventeen-Arch Bridge and Tuanshan Village, the most well-preserved original ecological village, have written the book atmosphere of Jianshui Ancient City everywhere.
The Confucian Temple has a history of more than 600 years since it was built. It is the third largest Confucian Temple after Shandong Qufu Confucian Temple and Beijing Confucian Temple due to its large scale, high architectural level and good preservation. There are many archways in the Confucian Temple, and the birds and beasts carved on each archway are of different shapes, but they are very vivid.
The majestic Chaoyang Tower can be called a treasure of ancient architecture. Its architectural style is a combination of Yuan Dynasty architecture and Ming Dynasty architecture. It is exactly the same as the architectural style of Tiananmen Square in Beijing. It is known as "Little Tiananmen Square". The preserved sign was originally the military fortification in the east of Lin'an Guard in the Ming Dynasty. The city gate was "Yinghui Gate", which was built in 1389.
As foodies, no matter how culturally interesting we are, we can’t match the temptation of delicious food. Hungry, we rushed to the "Jianshui Family" in the alley opposite Zhu's Garden, just for the "intangible cultural heritage" project of Honghe Prefecture - Jianshui Steam Pot Chicken And the most representative Jianshui roast tofu. Steam pot chicken, which was founded in Jianshui, is a unique high-grade dish in Yunnan. It enjoys a high reputation at home and abroad. The chicken also needs Jianshui local chicken, which is prepared in a unique way and needs a long time of simmering. Those who have tasted this dish are all slightly addicted to the mellow and delicious soup, and the chicken is delicate and smooth, with a very good taste.
In Jianshui, every restaurant must have such a table of roasting tofu. A group of people and the stall owner sit in front of the iron bar grill, with a brazier underneath. While chatting, I paid attention to the heat of the tofu. When I saw that one was cooked, the skin was yellow and golden, I hurriedly started. There were several small cans on the corner, and each diner had a corresponding one. Every time a tofu was eaten, the stall owner threw it away. A kernel of corn was in the jar, and when he had finished eating and wanted to pay, he would dump the corn kernels in the jar and count the money, which was fifty cents a piece, which meant "throwing beans into money". The freshly baked tofu is very hot. When you take a bite, a bean fragrance will permeate the mouth. The tofu finally reveals the white and tender inside. It is hard on the outside and soft on the inside. In a big move, a group of people sat around the tofu stand, chatting and making jokes, and only then did they eat the most authentic Jianshui roasted tofu.
If the most irresistible thing in Jianshui is steam pot chicken, and the most famous is roasted tofu, then grass sprouts must be the most eye-catching, refreshing and delicious delicacy in Jianshui. Many people compare Jianshui grass sprouts It becomes ivory, not only because the grass buds look like ivory, and the whole is white and smooth, but also because the grass buds are only unique in Jianshui, Yunnan. They are rich in a variety of amino acids and are a kind of food with high nutritional value. , the entrance of the grass buds is absolutely fresh, sweet, crisp and tender.
At night, Zitao Street is brightly lit, and the colorful lights decorate the whole street with brilliance. When the lights of Zitao Street are lit up, they are deep and shallow, reflecting on the ancient bluestone slabs. Slowly, the food on the street is full of delicious food. Of course, the purple pottery here must be recommended. Jianshui pottery products are rich and colorful, exquisite, high in iron content, and the surface is full of metallic texture. With the reputation of being as bright as water, moist as jade, and sound like a chime, Zitao Street attracts more and more people to experience a leisurely time talking with Zitao.
December 7
A long dream in Lin'an, the handmade Jianshui tofu has been mellow for thousands of years. The well is still an indispensable part of the life of Jianshui people. Every aspect of life is inseparable from well water. The secret of Jianshui tofu is not The secret is that you only need a bucket of sweet spring water from the ancient well. The well is the foundation of the ancient city of Jianshui, and the well water is the "root" in the hearts of Jianshui people. There are various wells with unique shapes in the streets and alleys. There are two well holes, some as many as four well holes, and the wellheads have been polished smooth. The grooves worn out by the stone walls and ropes may tell you how long it has been in this city.
Among the 128 ancient wells in Jianshui, Ximen Daban Well is the most famous. "The well water is clear and bright, and it will not dry up for a long time, and it will be filled again after being taken." It has the reputation of "the first well in southern Yunnan". Looking down from the completed well fence, the spring water is bottomless. Hundreds of years have made deep ruts on the bluestone well fence. On one side of the big plate well is a niche dedicated to the Dragon King. When the locals come to fetch water, Often there will be worship first.
Opposite Dabanjing is Zengji Banjing Tofu Square, which became popular because of "A Bite of China". It has been making tofu since the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, and now it has been passed down to the sixth generation. They fetch well water every morning to soak soybeans, and wait for Fresh soybean milk is boiled to make loose tofu, and then the water is drained with gauze, and pressed into small tofu cubes one inch square. After drying, they can be sent to various small stalls in the city for people to taste. We walked into Zeng Kee, tasting the most authentic soy milk and bean curd, while chatting with the proprietress about the past and present of the store. The proprietress recommended us to try the wrapped tofu just out of the pan. The skin is fried very crispy, and it is tender and soft The slippery tofu just pops in the mouth, the taste is better than roasted tofu, and the aftertaste is endless!
Although I have eaten a lot of soy products early in the morning, I still can’t help but want to have another grass sprout rice noodle. In Jianshui, I walked through the streets and alleys early in the morning to eat a bowl of grass sprout rice noodles. Delicious, smooth rice noodles and delicious soup base are definitely the happiest things. Lin’an is famous for its taste in the city. It is semi-self-service. You can order the rice noodles you want at the window. The boss prepares the soup and puts it in a bowl bigger than your face. You need to be self-sufficient for the rest. There is unlimited supply of rice noodles. Seasoning is also optional. The soup is thick pork bone soup that has been simmered for a long time. It is clear in color and sweet in taste. Mint leaves are added to make the rice noodles smooth.
Jianshui City's retro century-old meter-gauge small train, accompanied by the sound of the whistle, walked all the way through the Seventeen-Arch Bridge, Xianghui Bridge and Tuanshan Village, as if slowly entering a slow time. We don't have enough time to take the whole journey, so why not drive Go chase the footsteps of the little train! Shuanglong Bridge is a seventeen-hole stone arch bridge that spans the confluence of two rivers. It is named because the two rivers look like double dragons. Made of bluestone, it is spacious and flat, and there are 3 pavilions on the bridge, with unique shapes, overlapping eaves, staggered eaves, mottled bricks, vigorous branches of an old tree pointing at the anger, and ruts carved on the bluestone road. All of them remind people of the prosperity of the year.
The station building of Xianghuiqiao Station is the most distinctive station on the Bilinping Railway, and it is also a single-eave modern building combining Chinese and French architectural features. The end point is Tuanshan Station. Tuanshan folk houses are built on the mountain, with clusters of ancient buildings, surrounded by green hills and surrounded by water. The original ecological village style of the 19th century is preserved here.
At Tuanshan Station, we finally saw a small yellow train parked in the distance. The color is extremely bright, like a train bound for spring. Boarding the train to find out, the interior decoration is almost all made of logs, which looks very old. Feeling, very retro, the sun hits the table through the window, and the whole car is warm.
I wanted to go straight to Fuxian Lake from Tuanshan, but I didn’t realize that everyone was still interested in Jianshui’s delicious food, so I turned the car and headed back to the ancient city again. In addition to relishing the steam pot chicken, we also wanted to try Muzi’s Lin’an copper cooking pot. A large pot is covered, layer by layer. When the lid is lifted, the aroma of meat, vegetables, and charcoal is overflowing. The meat dishes on the top layer are matched with the green seasonal vegetables on the bottom layer, presenting a colorful appearance. Tasting The phase is excellent, the soup is rich, sweet and delicious, it is a feast for the eyes.
After a proper food tour, we can finally drive to the last stop of this trip - Fuxian Lake, known as "the Maldives of Yunnan", is the second deepest freshwater lake in China (after Changbai Mountain Tianchi), and the water quality reaches The national first-class surface water standard. The vast expanse of colored glaze is like the blue sea, and Fuxian Lake is like the colored glaze sprinkled on the world. It has the unique gentleness of Yunnan, like an independent fairy floating here, far away from the feasting and feasting of the city, enjoying a moment of peace. "Lake", the style is lingering and beautiful, which is the most beautiful interpretation of this place (borrowed picture).
Fuxian Lake is very big. I went around the lake a few years ago and went straight to my destination - 25°C Blue B&B. There are many B&Bs in the middle of the mountain near the Hilton Hotel, each with its own characteristics. This B&B with the charm of the Greek Aegean Sea has the best location Well, there is no shelter in front, blue and white exterior walls, blue swimming pool, beautiful small garden, a proper "Oriental Little Santorini" experience, sitting on the balcony, you can see the entire Fuxian Lake, the top floor The sky mirror on the terrace, the sky ladder and other photo-taking elements, the scenery is beautiful when the sun sets, and the photos are very artistic. We enjoy the feeling of booking the venue and freeze the wonderful moments to our heart's content...
Just a bit of a literary style, the foodie started to miss the stone pot fish and copper pot potato stewed rice at night again, and I was really curious about how big the foodie's stomach is. I chose Guixinyuan Fishing Village not far away. Stone pot fish is a local delicacy that is completed only by steam. In a stone pot hewn from granite, first steam the pot, put the fish and ingredients, cover it with a straw hat and cook it slowly. Seeing the white steam overflowing from the pot cover, wait for a few minutes to eat, and drink a bowl of fresh fish soup first, because the use of steam maximizes the original flavor of the fish, it can be used as fish soup When it slowly flows down from your mouth, you will feel a fresh and sweet taste beating on your taste buds, without a trace of fishy smell. Of course, the fish meat is also extremely tender. The taste cannot be expressed in words. Express. The braised potato rice in a copper pot is cooked just right, and you can smell a faint fragrance of potato when it comes up. The rice grains are distinct, and the softness and hardness of the potato is just right. Same as rice, charred on the outside and tender on the inside. Although I have tasted stone pot fish and copper pot yam stewed rice more than once, I still feel that this mouthful by Fuxian Lake is unforgettable forever. Only here is the most authentic and most delicious. This time, I will bring my friends together Sharing, watching them eat intoxicated, my heart is even more joyful!
Even though it is the Nth time to come to Yunnan, it seems that there is always an endless journey waiting for us, and every time there will be new discoveries, new scenery, and new insights... Looking forward to the next stop, I think that Maybe it's Puzhehei, the fairyland of Three Lives Three Worlds Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms!