D1-6.15: Arrive in Kunming, visit Guandu Ancient Town, enjoy the beautiful sunset in Wangguan Wetland Park
D2-6.16: Kunming-Puzhehei, visit the filming location of "Three Lives III, Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms", live in Puzheheiyunbanghuaqingsu
D3-6.17: Wanli Lotus Pond to enjoy lotus flowers, climb Qinglong Mountain to overlook the panoramic view of Puzhehei, watch willow-leaf boat battles, and taste local delicacies
D4-6.18: B&B selfie play, Puzhehei-Kunming, visit Kunming Nanqiang Night Market, taste authentic wild mushroom hot pot
D5-6.19: Buy freshly baked Jiahua flower cakes, return trip
The trip to Honghe Prefecture, Yunnan at the end of 2020 seems to be still in sight. In just half a year, I began to miss my beloved Yunnan again. Yunnan is an addiction that I have been unable to quit. In addition, it is June, and I can taste wild Yunnan mushrooms The season is here again, and I wanted to find a place to relax and relax, so I thought of Puzhehei, which is not far from Kunming. I highly recommend it. Before the peak season of summer vacation comes, let's continue to "fly with our heart" and go to the green hills of the ten thousand mu lotus pond to spend a few days of wonderful days in the fairy world!
June 15
It was noon when I flew to Kunming, so I chose Atour Hotel, which is close to Kunming South Railway Station. The hotel can provide free pick-up service. There is also delicious Fuxian Lake stone pot fish nearby. The clear soup pot retains the original flavor of the fish. , The spicy pot is delicious and delicious, and the Shuangpin can be served with rice and soup, which can be said to kill two birds with one stone.
The hotel is just a stone's throw away from Yihe Road Subway Station. We didn't go out together until the afternoon sun was not too strong, and went to Guandu Ancient Town not far away. Guandu Ancient Town has a pure ancient style and long ancient rhyme. Its area is not large, less than 1.5 square kilometers. It has been a famous ancient ferry in central Yunnan since the Nanzhao Dali Kingdom. Kunming was established as a county at the same time. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it has become a town with developed commerce. In the past, Guandu, where merchants gathered and towers shone, became a treasure land where dignitaries built palaces and villas, and celebrities patronized. Many cultural architectural sites are still preserved. Five mountains, six temples, seven pavilions, and eight temples in the Song, Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties.
The Vajra Pagoda of Miaozhan Temple is the oldest pagoda among the more than ten existing Vajra Pagodas in China. It is the only typical Lama-style pagoda built entirely of sand and stone. In particular, there is a two-story stage on the north side, which complements the two brick pagodas with dense eaves in Miaozhan Temple. Scattered high and low, magnificent and magnificent, constitute the core of the ancient buildings in Guandu Town. The bottom of the base spans the sky, and there are four gates connecting the east, west, north and south, allowing pedestrians and horses to pass by. Conical pagoda, the five pagodas represent the five Buddhas, the main pagoda in the middle represents the Tathagata, the main pagoda is tall and handsome, surrounded by five pagodas, the large and small pagodas are shining, and the carving is exquisite. The whole stone pagoda is soaked in the light of religious culture, It is also full of the charm of architectural art.
The two towers of Miaozhan Temple, one east and one west, are about 15 meters apart. The two towers are light yellow in color and have 13 floors of solid brick towers with dense eaves. They were first built in the Yuan Dynasty and have been rebuilt many times. The east tower remains, and the current west tower was rebuilt in 2001. The tower is 17.5 meters high, and there is a copper garuda on the top to prevent floods. It is said that every 60 years on the evening of the autumn equinox, when the sun sets and the moon rises, the twin towers will complement each other, comparable to the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster.
Today's Guandu Ancient Town has a heavy commercial atmosphere, but the nearby local residents still enjoy themselves, using the ancient town as their entertainment back garden, surrounded by the Legal Temple, Tuzhu Temple, and Miaozhan Temple, there are always groups of people , with silk and bamboo orchestras, blowing, playing and singing is so lively, everyone is intoxicated in the music, Yunnan opera, lanterns, folk songs, minor tunes, I will appear on the stage after you sing, and some take out chess and cards, invite friends and have a leisurely rest .
The sun was slanting to the west, and we, who were not used to the hustle and bustle of the ancient town, left in a hurry and rushed to Wangguan Wetland Park to find the beautiful sunset. There are more than ten wetland parks, large and small, beside Dianchi Lake. Among them, Wangguan Wetland is famous for the beautiful sunset pictures in Xiaohongshu. It is known as Kunming's "Little Jeju Island". Going forward, you can also cross the lake along the wetland path, the water plank road, the underwater reflection, surrounded by green trees, no matter which route you choose, you can see the waves hitting the shore, the clouds roll and the clouds relax, and you can feel the comfort and comfort of this moment. A gust of warm wind blows towards the face, with the moisture of water, the smell of flowers and soil, bringing a little bit of refreshment to people walking in the hot summer. Standing on the shore of Dianchi Lake, the water surface is sparkling and stretches as far as the eye can see. The waves beat against the rocks, the dead trees sway in the water, and the old trees stand alone in the water, adding a touch of sadness and desolation.
Beautiful things are worth waiting for, just like the sunset in Wangguan Wetland Park, someone set up a camera early, just waiting for this moment to come, the afterglow of the setting sun sprinkled on the water, the undulating waves are golden, the sky and the earth are like It is dyed and shrouded in an orange halo. When the sun gradually disappears in the arms of Xishan, the color of the sky becomes extraordinarily charming. The combination of warm and cold tones fully displays the charm of the sunset. With a kind of intoxicating magic, warm and soft light and shadow, the picture is beautiful and artistic (some pictures borrowed).
June 16
In the morning, after enjoying the perfect breakfast and hot rice noodles, the hotel sent us a special car to take us to Kunming South Railway Station. There is a direct high-speed train from South Station to Puzhehei. The whole journey takes about 1 hour. It is very convenient. Puzhehei High-speed Railway Station is located at In Qiubei County, you can easily arrive at our inn by Didi - Huazhupuzhe Heiyunbanghuaqingsu.
The courtyard of the inn is clean and elegant, with a large sea of flowers, carefully arranged, 180° perfect landscape and lake view, the lotus lake and Qinglong Mountain show their bodies to the fullest, and you can have a panoramic view of the distant mountains, small lotus, blue sky and white clouds, as if they belong to you Enjoy the beautiful scenery privately, the bedroom on the third floor is designed with large floor-to-ceiling windows, lazily lying on the rocking chair on the balcony, brewing a pot of tea, spreading out a book, drinking tea and meditating, this kind of pastoral life away from the hustle and bustle is exactly what we want Yes, feeling the completely different style of life from the city, laughing at the flowers blooming and falling in front of the court, watching the clouds rolling and relaxing in the sky, making people unwilling to get up again after sitting down. Although the inn is at the end of Puzhehei Village, a certain distance from the lively center of the village, it is precisely because of this that it can enjoy a unique quietness. Although the road in front of the courtyard is full of dust and potholes, the flaws are not hidden, not to mention that the housekeeper has always let us borrow the store for free. The small eDonkey is very convenient to drive anywhere.
Under the scorching sun, go to the nearby Xiayu Lake to taste the special lotus seed soy milk chicken. The bottom of the pot is boiled with fresh soy milk and lotus seeds, and the local chicken is stewed. After boiling, there is a layer of tender bean curd on the surface. The soup is thick and tender. The appearance is not very good, but it is very fresh and sweet when paired with local vegetables. The peach blossom wine and lotus flower wine are both delicious. The five-color glutinous rice has a firm and fragrant taste, accompanied by a faint aroma of bamboo tubes, which symbolizes the unity of people of all ethnic groups like glutinous rice balls. Life is as splendid as a hundred flowers, and the store also thoughtfully gave away its own lotus root powder and egg yolk pastry to taste. The taste is quite good, and you can buy some as souvenirs.
The afternoon sun was too dazzling, the ultraviolet rays were super strong, and it was hot on the skin. I really didn’t have the courage to go out, so I simply hid in the inn, blowing the breeze on the balcony, and sitting on the beautiful scenery. Then I rode a scooter to the filming location of "Three Lives Three Worlds Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms".
Friends who have watched fairy dramas such as "Three Lives Three Worlds Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms" and "Three Lives Three Worlds Pillow Book" must be deeply impressed by the Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms in the play, right? Surely they will never forget Bai Qian and Feng Jiu, the two empresses of Qingqiu, right? In fact, as early as in the "Shan Hai Jing", we can find records about the nine-tailed fox in Qingqiu. It was first seen in the pre-Qin period and was passed down as an auspicious beast in the Han Dynasty. The origin of the three lives, waiting for the flowering period, burning peaches, ten miles of fragrance, peach blossoms all over the mountains, distant clear waters and green mountains, quiet bridges and flowing water, luxuriant grasses, and mist. This is the real Xanadu, and this is Puzhehei's "real version of Qingqiu". Drilling through the narrow hole engraved with the word "Qingqiu", the eyes suddenly open up, like a fairyland on earth, surrounded by water on three sides, embraced by mountains, several white gauze pavilions, several dead wood and rattan bridges, a pink peach forest, Endowing this quiet lake with a different enchanting charm, a fairyland island is located in the middle of the blue lake. Under the reflection of the lake, it is so beautiful that it is unreal. There are lingering birdsong in my ears, and even the smell of the air is unreal. So fragrant, I think there must be a few altars of old wine "Peach Blossom Drunk" buried under the trees by the lake, right? Ten Miles of Peach Forest, the only regret is that Peach Blossom is still a fake setting, but this does not hinder its beauty. The beautiful scene makes people enter the play in a second, as if they really flew into a certain fairy and came to Qingqiu Empress's house As a guest, ask Bai Qian for a pot of excellent peach blossom drunkenness, under the peach blossom tree, drink a lot, and lie drunk in the grass pavilion, as the saying goes, "Wake up when drunk, only sit in front of the flowers, and get drunk to sleep under the flowers"!
Back at the inn, you can enjoy the beautiful sunset of Puzhehei by sitting on the balcony. After installing the tripod, you can condescend to take time-lapse photography, keep the thick strokes in the sky, enjoy the golden feast of the gorgeous ending, and look out from the railing , the setting sun gradually restrained its light, shaped like an egg yolk, the sunset was intoxicated with the setting sun, the sky was colorful, sometimes light red, sometimes light blue mixed with a little purple, sometimes light purple mixed with a touch of gold, brilliant like clouds, extremely gorgeous, empty On the misty green hills, the setting sun slowly set, the sunset glow dyed the lake water red, the water and the sky became the same color, and finally the gorgeous glow also sank to the bottom of the water... At night, the butler warmly invited us to a barbecue party, even though we were strangers to each other People, but everyone can still barbecue, drink, and chat in full swing, and compare who can continue to maintain her skin white and beautiful under such strong ultraviolet rays? !
June 17
Puzhehei, which means "a pond full of fish and shrimps" in the Yi language, is the golden season for tourism in Puzhehei from late June to September. It enters the flowering period in mid-May every year, and the flowering period lasts for a long time until the end of September. Here There are more than 270 kinds of world-renowned lotus growing, with a total area of more than 20,000 mu, which is roughly equivalent to the area of the Vatican in three small countries. It can be called the largest lotus garden in the world. .
Waking up in the morning, the warm morning sun shines on the lake, and the air is filled with the unique fragrance of lotus. I walk by the lake, surrounded by emerald greens, and the lotus is swaying and dancing gently, like a slim girl, charming and charming. Pink, crimson, and white petals each have their own charm, and the warm yellow flower core is embedded in them, which is elegant and demure. From time to time, bees fly to collect honey, and large lotus leaves are stretched unscrupulously.
Puzhehei has entered the early summer season, and the lotus has also changed from the charm of "a little red among the green bushes" in May, blooming one after another, one after another, "the lotus leaves are boundless in the sky, reflecting the sun." The lotus is differently red" is the best interpretation of this situation. The endless lotus spreads in the lake of Puzhehei. The breeze blows and makes a "rustling" sound, as if they are whispering something .
There are lonely peaks in the distance, the lake water reflects the blue sky and white clouds, the patchwork farmhouses, a peaceful and beautiful field scenery, I breathe in the fresh air, and freely enjoy the comfort of people swimming in the painting, from the lover bridge along the lake Along the sightseeing path, walk while admiring the flowers, until you reach the Puxin Bridge, which is the center of Puzhehei Village. The Lover's Bridge hidden in the lotus pond is also called the Siting Bridge. The architectural style is very special. There are four pavilions with carved beams and painted buildings. Symmetrically arranged on both sides of the bridge deck, clear reflections in the water, the color is very eye-catching, the water quality here is crystal clear all year round, the average water depth is 3 meters, the deepest is 30 meters, the ripples pass, and the scenery reflected on the smooth mirror-like water surface It will be swung away, revealing the aquatic plants, fish and shrimps below.
There is a shortcut from the inn to Qinglong Mountain. Take the rice field canal and go straight to the foot of Qinglong Mountain. The climbing path is winding and winding, with cliffs and cliffs. It still takes a certain amount of physical strength to climb to the top of the mountain. It takes about half an hour to reach the top of the mountain. There are multiple viewing platforms, and you can have a panoramic view of Puzhehei. Qinglong Mountain is 1,555.8 kilometers above sea level and is the center of Puzhehei. You can overlook the typical karst landform of Puzhehei at 360°. It has both the beauty of Guilin's landscape and the quaint charm of Jiangnan water town, and the fragrance of lotus flowers is overflowing. , the folk customs are authentic, and it integrates the six landscapes of "water garden, lake and peak forest, Yijia water town, karst wetland, lotus world, and migratory bird paradise". It is known as "the rare and unique karst landscape in China". It can be described as "a dreamland in the sky, a fairyland on earth". 54 lakes are connected, the water surface of 20,000 mu is pure and transparent, and there are many mountains in the distance. It is magnificent and imposing. The meandering waterways surround the vast green hills, and the smoke rises from the well-arranged houses. We are blowing the cool mountain breeze, looking at the lake and mountains in front of us, and we do not want to leave for a long time until one Ye Huaboat rowed across the water, causing ripples in the lake, breaking the tranquility of one side.
Go back to the red clay stove lunch on the main street, where the lotus can do everything, and all kinds of lotus-related dishes make people feel novel, and Panax notoginseng is also one of the local specialties. The fried lotus is sweet and crispy. The lotus petals are wrapped in flour and deep-fried. The seven stewed chicken soup is fresh and tender, with a light medicinal taste, nourishing blood and beautifying anti-aging, and then have a pot of exquisite peach blossom drunk, simply drink to your heart's content... The store's phoenix tea is also delicious, pure wild plant East perilla leaves Dried in the sun, slightly bitter and sweet, clearing heat, detoxifying and anti-oxidation, a cup of it after a meal can also scrape oil intestines.
Continue to go back to the inn to rest in the afternoon, avoid the sun exposure, and go out for a stroll in the evening. We don’t like to take a boat, we stay by the Qiaotou Lake and enjoy the passionate water battles in summer. There are many lakes in Puzhehei, which are like strings of pearls connected together, forming a 19.8-kilometer tourist channel. When you come to Puzhehei in summer, the most attractive activity for children of all ages is to get close to the water. In the depths of the lotus, there is an endless sea of lotus flowers in front of you, the sound of oars is reflected, and there are laughter one after another in your ears. While enjoying the scenery of mountains and rivers in the hot summer, you are excited to have a summer passionate water battle with your friends. Whether you know it or not, water is the best greeting. Washbasins, water guns, water ladles... as long as they can hold water, they can be used as "weapons". Wet your body with water and enjoy the cool fun of playing in the water in summer. It is absolutely hearty. At this time, I looked at the sea of lotus flowers in full bloom in the early morning, only to find that they had closed their petals one after another with the sunset, and returned to the shy state of budding, quietly waiting for another dawn to come, and greeted the next day with full energy. Stretching once, blooming next time... (some pictures borrowed)
Puzhehei at night belongs to barbecue, and I couldn’t find a bowl of rice noodles. The locals said that they only eat rice noodles for breakfast, so we got into the Four Seasons BBQ and ordered a few skewers of roast beef and a plate of grilled roll noodles at random. Surprisingly, I was pleasantly surprised by the deliciousness of the baked roll powder. The minced chives wrapped inside are salty and delicious, with a wonderful taste and unique flavor.
June 18
Before setting off, we made a strategy, and we set the tone for this trip to focus on leisure, so we gave up many scenic spots around us, and we didn’t charter a car. We only rode a small motorcycle or walked around Puzhehei Village, climbed Qinglong Mountain, walked Walking in Qingqiu Taolin, most of the rest of the time is spent in the inn drinking tea and resting, admiring the scenery in the yard... We who are used to the hustle and bustle of the city, coming here is like a fish returning to the water, leisurely and at ease, we can let go of everything , All troubles can be thrown away.
I am about to return today. I woke up naturally in the morning. I don’t want to go anywhere. I just want to stay in the inn quietly. The inn in Nuo Da is empty. The tripod started to take selfies, and they took pictures casually. People were in the scene, and each of them was a big picture. Everything around them became props, such as rattan beds, glass swings, flagons, water guns...the two of them got carried away and had a great time. Almost, I think this is the real relaxation!
Before leaving, ride a scooter, cross the Puxin Bridge, and go to Xiayu Luxuan, which is ranked top in Puzhehei, to eat lotus fish. The meat of the lotus fish is tender, sweet and delicious, and the shape is beautiful. There is more meat and less vegetables, the snail meat is big and full, there is no muddy smell, and the leeks are also very fresh. The pine hair tea in the store is very similar to yesterday's Fengwei tea. In summer, LG can't help but buy it to cool down and relieve the heat. bring some back. We went back to the inn to say goodbye to the butler, but found that Didi couldn’t be called. Fortunately, the butler helped us find a familiar chartered driver to take us to the station, so we didn’t miss the high-speed train back to Kunming.
On the return trip, I chose to live near the subway Tangzixiang Station in Kunming. I can go directly to Kunming South Station and Changshui Airport by subway. There are Nanqiang Market and Pedestrian Street nearby, where I can eat while shopping. There is also a flower that I have been coveting for a long time. Mushroom wild mushroom hot pot, Kunming mushroom hot pot ranks first, must-eat restaurant on the list. In Yunnan, known as the kingdom of plants, when the summer rain falls, wild mushrooms will always arrive as scheduled. It absorbs the essence of nature and emerges quietly in the mountains with a fresh and attractive posture. In this season, eating mushrooms and drinking mushroom soup is definitely a world A great pleasure.
The expected queuing, after taking the number, go to the Nanqiang market next door. In the sultry night, the neon lights flashing on the street are like stars. The shops on both sides of the street are full of literary and artistic atmosphere. The gourmet snacks are enough to eat from the street to the end of the alley. Among the crowds in Nanqiang Market, there are young people who come to experience the trendy lifestyle, tourists from other places to explore the atmosphere of the city, and old Kunming people to find their hearts. Unforgettable taste.
A wild mushroom hot pot, I don’t know all kinds of mushrooms in the wild mushroom platter. The waiter introduced them one by one, and then poured the full pot of mushrooms into the hot chicken soup pot, and put a small The small timer is next to it, telling us not to touch any ingredients in the pot with our tableware before the time is up, so we waited and waited, the overflowing steam was extremely fragrant, and the saliva flowed three thousand feet, and the timer finally rang , in order to ensure the safety of diners, each soup pot must be sampled and kept for 48 hours, and finally it can be eaten. After stirring gently, drink a bowl full of mushroom soup. The soup is rich and delicious, sweet and nourishing, and the freshly cooked mushrooms are delicious Instantly, as far as the taste is concerned, I like the red milk boletus the most. It is fresh, smooth and crispy. After eating the chicken and mushrooms, it is also very delicious. The two-person set includes drinks and desserts. The content is too rich , queued for more than 40 minutes and gave us two cages of matsutake steamed dumplings. Eat it while it is hot. The dumpling skin is crystal clear and chewy, and the dumpling filling has a strong matsutake flavor.
June 19
Before going to the airport, I couldn’t help but went to the Jiahua Bakery opposite the hotel to buy rose flower cakes. I must buy the classic ones that are baked and sold on the day, and freshly baked. The stuffing has a rich floral fragrance, the rose fragrance is refreshing, and it is not so sweet, which makes me, a person who doesn't like sweets, want to stop.
In just five days, Kunming took a rest and wandered in the paradise of Puzhehei. Climbing up to see the panorama, looking at the winding mountains, leisurely gardens and ancient towns, watching small bridges and flowing water, houses with smoke and smoke, strolling by the lake, watching the shimmering waves and blooming lotus flowers Put it aside, although Puzhehei has become popular in front of the world, it is still low-key doing its own fairyland appearance. Only when you come here can you feel the beauty that is indisputable, coupled with the gluttony of wild mushrooms in summer in Yunnan Feast, my attachment to Yunnan is temporarily satisfied, and the next stop is Xishuangbanna...