It took 35 days and 16,000 kilometers of self-driving to walk around Xinjiang. During the period, I also traveled to Beijiang and Duku Highway with my middle school friends and family, and I felt like I was back in middle school. Share the itinerary and strategy, and hope that the friends in the future can have more fun.


Xinjiang is the province with the largest land area in China, accounting for 1/6 of the country's land area. The terrain is characterized by "three mountains sandwiching two basins", with the Altai Mountains in the north, the Kunlun Mountains in the south, and the Tianshan Mountains in the middle, dividing Xinjiang into northern Xinjiang and southern Xinjiang. Sandwiched between the three mountains are the Tarim Basin and the Junggar Basin. Northern Xinjiang looks at the scenery, and southern Xinjiang looks at the humanities. This is indeed the case.


This time, I drove from Gansu to Xinjiang. I first traveled from east to west along the northern foot of the Tianshan Mountains, from Hami to Yining, and then walked back to Urumqi along the southern foothills of the Tianshan Mountains to meet my friend’s family. Then go all the way north to Kanas, turn around and take the Duku Highway to the south. Finally, we took a counterclockwise tour in southern Xinjiang, leaving Qinghai from Qinghai, next to the Taklamakan Desert.


Day1-4 on the road

My daughter left after finishing her final exam in the morning. All the way across the Yangtze River and the Yellow River, through the Qinling Mountains and the Hexi Corridor. Stay in Hefei (400KM), Xi'an (910KM), Lanzhou (630KM), and Jiayuguan (720KM) for one night, and complete car maintenance in Jiayuguan.


Day5 Jiayuguan -> Hami City (612KM, 7 hours), Hami Devil City

From the G30 Lianhuo Expressway, it officially enters Xinjiang from Xingxingxia. Once in Xinjiang, nucleic acid and public security inspections are daily compulsory courses. Fortunately, the efficiency is relatively high, and one hour a day is enough.

Hami Devil City is located in Wubao, a 1.5-hour drive on the outskirts of Hami, where you can drive into the garden and have close contact with sand and stones. At the end of the highway in the Devil City Scenic Area is the ancient city of Eskeshaer (about 20KM). The scenery is average, not as good as Urho Devil City and Qinghai Gobi Devil City, but it is better in cheap tickets (25 yuan/person) and close contact. It is more appropriate to go 2 hours before the sun sets, without drying.


Day6-7 Hami City -> Turpan (415KM, 5 hours), Flame Mountain, Grape Valley, Karez Well

The original plan was to stay in the Kumtag Desert in Shanshan for one night, but the nucleic acid testing in Shanshan was particularly strict. Because we passed by Lanzhou, we were not allowed to get off the expressway, so we had to go directly to Turpan.

On the Lianhuo Expressway, I had a glimpse of the desert closest to the city, and planted the seeds of going again next time.

We just took a look at the Huoyan Mountain at the door, it was so hot! And this Danxia landform is common.

Grape Valley is worth a visit. The sightseeing car takes tourists deep into the vineyard, and then the tourists stroll out of the 800-meter grape corridor. During this period, Uyghur music is often played, allowing people to relax physically and mentally in the hot summer. The whole tour takes about three hours.

The raisins dried in the drying room are green as new and sweet.

Karez, the Great Wall and the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal are known as the three major projects in ancient China. There are more than 1,100 Karez wells in Turpan alone, with a total length of about 5,000 kilometers. It is a huge underground water conservancy project that draws groundwater and turns the desert into an oasis.

Both Karez Paradise and Folk Custom Garden have similar introductions. We invited a Uighur lady guide in the park, and the whole journey took about 1 hour. Uighurs will put a pot at the door of their house. The higher the pot, the richer the family. Those who can dig karez are usually rich people.

Visited the still-used Miyim Bayi Karez well. After learning about the craftsmanship and hardships of digging wells, fortunately, after the wells are completed, they can make money by selling water. After tasting a bowl of Karez water, I went back and had diarrhea for several days. It is true that one side of water and soil supports one side of people, and the water quality in Xinjiang is too hard!

Fruits are definitely indispensable in Turpan. Let's go to the Turpan Fruit and Vegetable Wholesale Market to do some shopping and prepare for the follow-up trip.

Six pieces of cantaloupe are only 24 yuan. My daughter said that she used to eat "cantaloupe", but this time it is called "cantaloupe"! I bought some nectarines, flat peaches, apricots, cashews, raisins, and dark plums.

The "Kohima Kela Baked Buns" opposite the museum has long dominated the list. The whole family ate 20 of these mutton and onion stuffed buns. I ate 10 by myself, not bad, not inferior to Quzhou scones!


Day8 Turpan -> Wusu (500KM, 8 hours) Anjihai Grand Canyon (closed)

I planned to take a look at the Anjihai Grand Canyon on the way. According to the online strategy, I was going to "Ulan Harga" village, but the county road was still stopped by the police, and the S101 provincial road was also closed. Post a picture of Anjihai taken by other netizens, I can only go next time!

Why don't you have a bottle of "Deadly Wusu" when you arrive in Wusu?


Day9 Wusu -> Yining City (500KM, 7 hours) Sailimu Lake, Guozigou Bridge, Lavender

Sailimu Lake is the mountain lake with the highest altitude (2071 meters) and the largest area in Xinjiang, and it is also the place where the warm and humid Atlantic air flow lasts, so there is a saying of "the last tear of the Atlantic Ocean". You can drive into Sailimu Lake by yourself, and go around the lake for 93KM. The best scenery is in the southwest corner near the exit.

Sailimu Lake can put drones, and two videos were shot here. It's a pity that the drone fell down at the Jonkush Terrace later, and all subsequent photos were taken with mobile phones.

Not long after leaving Sailimu Lake, you can see the Guozigou Bridge.

The lavender near Jieyou Manor is no longer visible on the roadside, and you need to buy a ticket to go deep into the planting base. I gave up on the road that day, and made up a picture of lavender taken in the garden of Yili Hotel.


Day10 Yining City, Yili River, Kazanqi Folk Village

The Ili River Valley is surrounded by the West Tianshan Mountains on three sides, and the Ili River flows through it. It is the wettest place in Xinjiang and is known as Jiangnan beyond the Great Wall. But the Yili River and Kazanqi Folk Village in Yining are disappointing.

The Yili River is similar to the Wuxi River in my hometown. Kazanqi didn't see folk customs, but the ice cream shops that claimed to be the best in China kept us lingering.


Day11 Yining City -> Joan Kush Terrace -> Tekes (320KM, 8 hours)

Originally planned to take the Yizhao Highway (Xiaoduku) to Tekes, but this year the Yizhao Highway has not been opened due to landslides, so it has to be temporarily changed to Qiongkushitai. The village of Qiongkushitai is worse than Hemu, but the scenery on the road to Qiongkushitai is amazing!

After arriving in Turks, I ate lamb chops and kavas, and my wife and daughter were very satisfied.

Day12 Tekes -> Kala Jun -> Gongliu County (140KM, 3 hours)

Kalajun is the northern route of the ancient Silk Road in China. It is also the seat of Wusun Kingdom, the largest ancient nomadic country in the Western Regions of China, and the seat of the largest racecourse in ancient times, "Khan Grassland".

In one day, we chose to only go to the Kalajun Grassland and give up the Kuokesu Grand Canyon. The Kalajun grassland shuttle only stops at three stops: the Heritage Hall in West Kalajun, the Wuhua Meadow and Falcon Terrace in East Kalajun. We only get off at the last two stops. Please be sure to go to the end of Falcon Terrace (about 2KM, 80 yuan for a round trip on horseback). The scenery is absolutely beyond imagination.


Day13 Gongliu County -> Korla (650KM, 10 hours) Nalati, Gongnaisi

Due to the rainy weather, I gave up the Nalati Grassland and took the G218 to Korla one day in advance. The first half of the journey is along the edge of Naiti Grassland and Gongnaisi Forest Park, and the scenery is good. The second half of the journey was full of potholes and poor road conditions.


Day14 Korla Bosten Lake

Bosten Lake is known as the largest inland freshwater lake and huff lake in China, but it is quite ordinary. It is not as good as Taihu Lake, so it is not worth going.

On the contrary, the "Xiao Gazi" in Korla is not bad. The big plate chicken, dried fish and Xinjiang soup and rice are all very delicious, and I ate two meals in a row.


Day15 Korla -> Urumqi (480KM, 7 hours) Meet up with friends

Arrive in Urumqi in the afternoon, meet up with my friend's family, and have a little Gazi for dinner.

It's much easier for adults when children have company.


Day16 Urumqi Xinjiang Museum, International Grand Bazaar

The Xinjiang Museum needs to be booked in advance, among which "Xinjiang Historical Relics Exhibition" and "Xinjiang Ancient Mummy" are more popular. At a fixed time point, there will be a public commentator to explain to everyone, so as to have a deeper understanding of the history of Xinjiang. The whole journey takes about 3 hours.

In the afternoon, I went to the International Grand Bazaar, which is a big market. Compared with buying things, looking at the tower is more meaningful.


Day17 Urumqi -> Tianshan Tianchi -> Fuyun City (472KM, 6 hours)

Tianshan Tianchi, known as "Yaochi" in ancient times, contains alpine lakes with a complete vertical natural landscape belt, with the myth of the Queen Mother of Yaochi as the cultural background. It is about 1.5 hours' drive from Urumqi, the ticket is 155 yuan, and the cableway overlooking Tianchi is 210 yuan. There is a very detailed tour introduction on the scenic area bus for about an hour. I personally think Tianchi is beautiful and worth a visit!

We took the Maya Mountain cableway and walked for 50 minutes on the plank road to the top of the 3076-meter viewing platform, overlooking Bogda Peak and Tianchi Lake. The total journey is about 5 hours.

Day18 Fuyun County -> Keketuohai -> Fuyun County (120KM, 3 hours round trip)

Keketuohai means "green forest" in Kazakh. The scenic spot is composed of four parts: the Irtysh Grand Canyon, Kekesuli, Yiremut Lake, and the Karashanger Earthquake Fault Zone. We only went to the Irtysh Grand Canyon, and after taking a 30-minute sightseeing bus, we went to the Shenzhongshan Grand Canyon on the essence section. The whole journey is 7KM, you can walk on foot, or you can choose to walk 1KM and take a 6KM sightseeing car.

The nearby No. 3 pit was abandoned due to sudden heavy rain. There is no place to hide from the rain in the scenic area, and it is quite embarrassing to be drenched!

Day19 Fuyun County -> Burqin -> Jiadengyu (455KM, 8.5 hours)

Eat pike from the Irtysh River in Burqin, fill up the gas and go to Jiadengyu (700 meters from the gate of Kanas). The scenery along the way is quite good.

Day20 Kanas

Kanas is known as the "Garden of the Gods". It gathers mountains, rivers, forests, lakes, and grasslands. It is still very beautiful. Take the shuttle bus (the driver is on the same side with a good view) and change to the center, there are three routes to choose from: Guanyutai, Kanas Lake and Sanwan (Shenxian Bay, Moon Bay, Wolong Bay). Due to the recent renovation of the fish viewing platform, we chose Kanas Lake cruise and hike Sanwan (about 5KM).

Day21 Kanas -> Hemu Village -> Colorful Beach -> Burqin (180KM, 4 hours)

Hemu is a pretty Tuva village embedded in the mountains. After taking the shuttle bus to the transfer center, take the shuttle bus to the "Hospital Observation Platform" station. After getting off the bus, walk 2KM along the village path and the Burqin River to the observation platform overlooking Hemu Village. Eat lunch in Hemu Village, and play for about 5 hours overall.

Colorful Beach is an ordinary Danxia landform. Fortunately, it is on the way and the tickets are cheap, and the scenery is better in the evening and sunset.


Day22 Burqin -> Wuerhe Devil City -> Dushanzi (480KM, 6 hours)

Wuerhe Devil City sits on a small train and listens to the commentary, which is quite comfortable. But if you get off the bus halfway and want to get on the bus again, you will have to stand in a long queue under the scorching sun. The overall play time is about 1.5 hours.


Day23 Dushanzi -> Qiaoerma -> Bayinbulak Town (480KM)

Finally started the Duku Highway, which will be completed in two days and will stay in Bayinbulak for one night. The Duku Highway is a miniature version of the entire Xinjiang scenery. If you don’t have time to visit the Great Xinjiang, you can get a rough look on the Duku Highway.

On the way, we went to the Qiaoerma Martyrs Cemetery to let the children understand the hardships of building the Duku Highway. Qiao Erma's wild mushroom noodles are quite unpalatable.

In the evening, the weather was bad and my friend’s car had a flat tire, so I gave up on the Bayinbulak Grassland to watch the sunset. At night, it is more comfortable to live in a yurt with a private guard and hot water in Bayinbulak. At 12 o'clock at night, you can only see the stars, but you can't see the Milky Way.


Day24 Bayinbulak Town -> Kuqa Grand Canyon -> Kuqa County (245KM)

In the second half of the Duku Highway, the vast Bayinbulak grassland is quite shocking, and the Kuqa Grand Canyon is also quite majestic when viewed from a distance.


Day25 Kuqa County -> Tomur Peak Nature Reserve -> Aksu (355KM, 5 hours)

Early in the morning, we reluctantly bid farewell to our friend’s family. They headed north, while we continued our journey to southern Xinjiang.

Tomur Peak is the highest peak in the North Tianshan Mountains. The whole nature reserve is like an overturned paint dish, colorful. Drive all the way to the foot of the mountain, climb the mountain and camp.


Day26 Aksu -> Kashgar (460KM, 5.5 hours)

As soon as you arrive in Kashgar, you must first apply for a border defense permit for Taxian County. Since it happened to be a three-day holiday just in time for Eid al-Adha, a large number of locals applied for border defense certificates. It will be faster for tourists from outside Xinjiang to go through the process at the tourist service center. Because we live near the old city, we went to the Kashgar administrative service center to go through the process, which took more than three hours. . .

In the evening, I ate the special dishes of southern Xinjiang. The whole family screamed at the spicy food, and the pouches were all spicy! In the evening, watch the sunset in the old city of Kashgar at the hotel.


Day27 Kashgar -> Ta County (290KM, 7 hours), Baisha Lake, Muztag Glacier, Pamirs

The China-Pakistan Friendship Highway (G314) from Kashgar to Taxian County is known as the highest and most beautiful highway in the world, enjoying the natural scenery of the Pamirs along the way: Oytak Red Mountain, Baisha Lake, Karakul Lake and Mu Stag Glacier.

The Pamir Plateau (called Congling in ancient times) scenic spot in Taxian County includes Stone City and Golden Grass Beach, and you can also visit the homes of the Tajik (European race). Watching Tajik performances at night, eagle flute and eagle dance are not bad. It is recommended to live in the Taxian Guest House closest to the show.

Day28 Ta County -> Kashgar (290KM, 7 hours) Kashgar Ancient City

Braving the heavy snowfall on the Pamir Plateau in July, I returned to Kashgar and stayed in a homestay in the ancient city of Kashgar. Drink a cup of tea in a century-old teahouse, eat and watch performances at the Maige Lai Grand Theater, and go shopping and eat.

Day29-30 Kashgar -> Yutian -> Qiemo (1075KM, 16 hours)

We drove on the edge of the Taklamakan Desert for two consecutive days, and as far as the eye could see were the Gobi, desert and Populus euphratica. The scenery of this section of desert road is worse than that of Qinghai desert road.

Day31-35 Qiemo->Mangya->Ulan->Pingliang->Xinyang->Hangzhou

Started the 4000KM return trip. Just after getting out of Qiemo, I drove into the desert 5 meters away to take a picture, and the car got stuck in it. Thanks to three kind-hearted people who helped pull the car out, thank you!

Along the way, I saw Mangya Emerald Lake, Xitai Jinel Lake, and Xiaochaidan. Take a detour to take another look at Qinghai Lake, which has not been seen for ten years, it is still so beautiful. Stayed at the foot of Kongtong Mountain for one night, passed through the super heavy rain in Henan, and finally returned to Hangzhou safely, ending this self-driving in Xinjiang.

postscript

If I were to visit again, I would optimize the itinerary like this:

1. From Urumqi to Urumqi, first to the north, then to the west, then to the south, and finally back to Urumqi, around Turpan and Shanshan, Hami can be canceled. Korla and Bosten Lake will be cancelled, and the desert road along the Taklimakan will be changed to the Tazhong Desert Road from north to south.

2. Arrange to live in Hemu Village on the second night in Kanas, stay one more night in Bayinbulak Grassland, and stay one less night in Yining.

3. The Kuokesu Grand Canyon, Anjihai Grand Canyon, Kumtag Desert, and Nalati Grassland that failed to make the trip this time are all arranged

4. It is best to travel with multiple cars. This time I got stuck in the sand and my friend had a flat tire. Multi-vehicle counterparts take care of each other


Other Notes on Xinjiang

1. Xinjiang is very safe, both in southern and northern Xinjiang. Personally, I feel that southern Xinjiang is a little less friendly than northern Xinjiang.

2. Only the driver can enter the station for refueling, and must swipe his ID card and check the trunk

3. The signal of China Mobile is also okay, there are 4G in the city, and you can make calls on the road

4. Except for Taxian County, which is a little bit high, other areas have not felt it

5. According to the navigation, there is no ticket in Xinjiang. And the high-speed toll is much lower than that of the mainland