At the beginning of 2017, it was the first time I drove to Liangshan Prefecture by myself. The warm sunshine in winter on the plateau was deeply imprinted in my mind.


Then, almost every year, our family will arrange a self-driving trip to Xichang in winter. As a lover of in-depth tourism in Sichuan, Xichang is always not enough for us to see, so we decided to go a little farther, and suddenly remembered that my friend recommended several to me. The next Dechang, which is only half an hour's drive from Xichang, has the reputation of "three hundred days in spring and autumn, four seasons health preservation place".


Winter in Dechang is definitely the best time to live in seclusion. The annual average temperature is 17.7 degrees, the annual sunshine exceeds 2000 hours, and the annual average precipitation is 1049 mm. People feel very comfortable.

So this weekend, I'm here.


Itinerary: transportation, board and lodging


🚗 Self-driving——From Chengdu, you can arrive at Dechang County in about 5 and a half hours. Most of the attractions are around the county, which is very convenient

🚌 Bus——Shiyangchang Bus Station has a bus to Dechang

✈️ Airplane - the airport is in the urban area of ​​Xichang ~ It takes only 1 hour to arrive at Xichang Qingshan Airport from Chengdu, and then take a bus from the airport to Dechang
🚄 Train——The high-speed rail from Chengdu to Liangshan has just opened! Now it only takes more than 3 hours to escape from the cold Chengdu and go to Dechang, where the sun is warm in winter, to spend a warm winter.


"Phoenix Crying" Phoenix Pavilion:


Before arriving in Dechang, you can see a towering attic far away, bright and brilliant, guiding the way forward in the dark night.


The information says:

Dechang was called Fenghuang City in ancient times, because there is a character library tower on the "Fenghuangzui" mountain in the north of the city, and the four characters "Phoenix Mingyi" are engraved on the four sides of the tower. Its origin is related to a pair of golden phoenixes. For thousands of years, there has been a strong "Silk Road" legend of "reaching Gyeonggi in the north and Mengzhao in the south", because the Phoenix Pavilion was originally one of the important stations on the Southern Silk Road.

I remember that when I asked Dechang’s friend where it was worth visiting, he specifically told me to go to the Phoenix Pavilion to have a look...


As the oldest building in Dechang, I thought it was a beautifully built attic, but when I came here, I found that under the exquisite carvings, there are historical legends about this ancient city everywhere. I walked all the way up from the mountain and met a few tourists. , They are all recommending to me to go up and have a look. It is really spectacular and the scenery is really beautiful.


Pushing open the gate of the Phoenix Pavilion Museum, every piece of antiquity I see in front of me is constantly telling me about the long history of Dechang...

The Phoenix Pavilion has a total of 9 floors, including 7 floors above, 2 floors below, and the five floors from the second floor to the third floor respectively display the history and legend of Dechang to the current high-speed flying.


Entering the first floor of Phoenix Pavilion, you are facing a picture of a phoenix flying high and a poem about Phoenix Pavilion. On the side, there are six font towers in Dechang. Nine palaces and eighteen temples, all of which were built when Dechang was in the heyday of the Southern Silk Road when a large number of immigrants flowed in.


But what I am most interested in is the history of the Lisu people in Dechang on the second floor. It turns out that it is not only in Yunnan, but Dechang is also the largest county in Sichuan Province where the Lisu people gather. Clothing, the ancient living habits of the early Lisu people, their ecological fireweed weaving skills, wedding customs, and rich seasons are all very precious cultural heritages today.



If you observe carefully, you can also find that the Phoenix Pavilion is actually an excellent viewing point. Press the elevator to the seventh floor and stand on the commanding height of the Phoenix Pavilion. At a glance, it turns out that Dechang and Anning River Valley are connected together. A phoenix that only spreads its wings and soars high. But I advise you not to take too much memory, thinking that the wind is really strong.




Font towers in history:


What is Font Tower? As soon as my companions arrived at the gate of the Phoenix Pavilion, they pointed to this building and asked me? In fact, it is because the paper written by scholars in ancient times could not be discarded at will, so towers were specially built for burning this kind of paper. Fewer and fewer people know.


Today, six well-preserved font towers can still be found on the map of Dechang, but the easiest one for tourists like us to see is the Cangsheng Palace Font Tower in the county, which is located in the middle of Cangsheng Palace and Phoenix Pavilion , built in the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty, has a total of three floors of hexagons. Now they no longer need to be "burned", but continue to accompany the "Phoenix City" on the Southern Silk Road in another form.


Ziku Tower has a history of hundreds of years in Dechang. It was basically built between Daoguang and Guangxu, with a history of only 200 years.

I was thinking that if one day I am interested, I can go to the township of Dechang to find the other five buildings. Perhaps such a search for the history of historical buildings will reveal another interesting historical story of Dechang.




"Bell and Drum Tower" without bells and drums



Because the old county town of Dechang is not big, and the Bell and Drum Tower is just in the very center of the old city, we found it with little effort. It used to be the most prosperous place in Phoenix. But who would have thought that this Bell and Drum Tower has neither bells nor drums. At first glance, you can only see the words "North to Gyeonggi" and "Nantong to Mengzhao" written on the foreheads of the north and south gates.


The eight mottled characters on the Bell and Drum Tower seem plain, but they also have their secrets. The Bell and Drum Tower was originally the middle pavilion of the Kuixing Tower. It was damaged, rebuilt twice, and rebuilt several times before leaving us What I saw today.


If you are interested in looking through the past documentaries about Dechang, you can see the Bell and Drum Tower at that time, which was the core of the main road connecting the Silk Road. At that time, standing on the Bell and Drum Tower and looking down, you can overlook the lively street. The businessmen in a hurry and the women chatting under the corner show the importance of it back then.

Time flies, even after so many years, it still maintains its prosperity, but now we can no longer climb the tower and feel the perspective of the people of the past.


As a necessary station on the Southern Silk Road, the Shangxiaxiang Street connected by the Bell and Drum Tower has been very lively since ancient times. From the sound of horseshoes to the current cars, there has been no time here for thousands of years.


The rows of shops next to the Bell and Drum Tower still maintain a busy rhythm. The owner of the traditional craft shop is buried in trying to polish the crafts in his hands to perfection. Competing with card skills, occasionally when tourists pass by, they will stop and watch for a while.


In my opinion, the Bell and Drum Tower can stand up to more than just the words "North to Gyeonggi" and "Nantong Mengzhao". Iron nails were punched to secure it. The handwriting on the stone tablet at the base of the wall has become blurred, especially the houses built around it and the noisy shops, all proving its "status" on this street.


Unlike many ancient cities I have been to, I like the relaxation when walking through Dechang Old Street. Those stories that come across by chance are just like the sunshine on the plateau, warm and comfortable!

So I have always felt that the best way to experience history is to get along with it in a comfortable way. When we finished taking photos and were about to leave, the old men who were playing cards under the city tower also packed up the tables and chairs and were ready to go home.


Strawberries and loquats are edible


Leaving Dechang County and heading south along the Anning River Valley, the first thing that appears on the horizon is the endless strawberry planting base. enjoying the direct sunlight.


We parked the car on the side of the road and walked along the path to the edge of the field. The boss was busy picking the harvest season. He told us without looking up that he could taste the freshly picked strawberries casually and repeated his comments. We said: Be sure to pick the big one, the big one is sweet.

If you want to pick it yourself, you just need to take a box and go down to the field to pick it. Picking strawberries is not counted on the basis of the head, and it costs 10 yuan per catty. Against the backdrop of the blue sky and white clouds, there is always a kind of spring in a trance. Who can believe that you can pick strawberries in the fields in the winter of December.



Quietly tell you: In addition to strawberries, loquats are also fruits that Dechang cannot miss. Gaofeng Village can be said to be a "net celebrity village" next to National Highway 108. The loquats all over the mountains and plains have turned this place from a plantation into a sightseeing spot. . There are check-in points and viewing platforms inside.


Now it is the season of fruit thinning. Beside the loquat tree, the villagers are busy picking off the fruits that are not growing well enough, and wrapping the big ones in paper bags.

In the past, people were reluctant to stay in the mountains, but with the rise of rural tourism, people here have seen hope again. In the past, people who could only go out to work are now returning to their hometowns to participate in construction, attracting more and more tourists. Come here to taste the fruit and enjoy the view.



The comfort in front of me made me not want to move when I got here, so we started to go to the homestay where we stayed tonight. After driving for half an hour, we arrived at the homestay. The owner of the homestay, Gu Jian, is quite accomplished in painting. A scholar, after working hard outside for many years, he who loves life also wants to have his own yard, away from the city, and be leisurely.


So he returned to his hometown Dechang last year. In the Anning Valley, relying on his love for his hometown, he built this homestay "Guiyuan" on the land of his hometown.


In order to restore his own memories, Gu Jian planted longan, loquat, and bananas in the yard, refurbished the old house in his childhood memory, and put his hopes on his works over the years. He said that there will be More and more people like him are showing their hometown and love of life.


Gu Jian said that he likes this yard, and he prefers to have friends who love old houses and creations come here to enjoy nature, discuss life together, and enjoy the rhythm of life at sunrise and rest at sunset.


Camping valley "Haihuagou"



Not far from the loquat orchard, there is a Haihuagou. With the unique natural climate of the Anning River Valley, the mountains and valleys are full of "sea" flowers, the "sea" of flowers.

Parked the car in the parking lot of Mizoguchi, and the girls in our car ran straight towards the blooming flowers beside the valley. I have to say that Haihuagou is the most exciting place for me this trip.

This used to be a forest that has never been disturbed, but now several kilometers of river valleys have been built with sightseeing trails, and each step has a different view.

Different from the simple trails, the sides of Haihuagou have been designed with a lot of thoughtfulness. The exquisite garden makes people stop every few steps and take out their mobile phones to take pictures of the blooming flowers and share them with them. buddy.

Compared with the pure hiking plank road, this place really suits my "appetite". After walking a few hundred meters, we found a tea shop with a strange shape beside the river valley. We picked a good location with our friends and clicked on it. With a cup of tea, close your eyes, and enjoy this vibrant environment freely. The worries and anxieties in daily life are all left behind by this tranquility.


Continue to walk up the river and pass through a piece of reed grass. Who would believe that there is a camp and a market hidden under the snow-capped mountains. On a large piece of free grass, adults and children can stretch freely here, basking in the warm sunshine, some driving The camping enthusiasts who came here opened their tents with their friends, made tea around the stove, and laughed without any scruples.

Isn't this the life we ​​yearn for?


Food recommendation:

After talking about the history and life here, it’s time to fill in the stomach. You will find that Dechang people are not sloppy at all when it comes to eating.

It is not the potatoes in our impression at all, but roll noodles, mutton, rice noodles, salted duck, oil altar meat, especially when you search for mutton on the map, there will be a lot of dense piles immediately.


Roll noodles are really delicious


The first meal in Dechang, of course, must be reserved for the roll noodles that I have missed for a long time. Rolled noodles, as the name suggests, is to roll food in noodles and eat it. It is a local specialty snack in Dechang, and it is also an important memory for every Dechang person.


Originally, I planned to go to Xiaji’s time-honored roll noodle recommended by a local friend, but maybe I came at the wrong time. The boss happened to be closed today, but the old copper pot potato was also available across the wall, so I followed the queue and walked over. .


The roll noodles must be made and eaten first in order to enjoy the best taste. The boss simply asked what flavor he wanted, and then he started making it. He took out a sheet of noodles and added chili, kelp, and crushed peanuts according to the procedure , kohlrabi, and then flipped over with your hand. In a few sentences, a burrito has been made.


It’s such a seemingly simple snack. The boss has been selling it for 7 or 8 years. The skill of rolling noodles has long been her specialty, and every one has to be rolled by herself to be at ease. Seeing that I wanted to take it apart after taking it, the boss called me immediately. You must roll it up and eat it to taste the best taste of the roll powder.


After one bite, there is no spicy taste as expected, but a unique taste. It is neither the taste of rice rolls nor the taste of spring rolls, but I think it is worth coming for it.


Mutton powder:


It is no exaggeration to say that the certain mutton powder, which is as famous as the roll noodles, can reopen the taste buds and redefine mutton at any store in Dechang.


Before the cold air in the morning dissipated from the valley, a few of us followed the locals into a mutton noodle shop. Looking in from the door, we saw that there were not many tables in the shop. Mutton noodle is the specialty of the shop. I like it. A way to order food directly by shouting, ma'am, I want a small portion.

Boil the water and add powder, then add two slices of mutton, put a spoonful of the secret soup base, sprinkle with a handful of green onion, and a bowl of refreshing mutton powder is served on the table.


The opening method of mutton powder is actually just started now. Diners need to add chili, winter vegetables, kimchi, and mint leaves according to their own taste. Even if other condiments are not required, they must add a handful of mint with a unique smell. Really, you only know what is delicious when you have a mouthful of noodles!

Noodles can be so delicious......




Mutton House


I think the one that can compete with mutton noodles must be the mutton restaurants that can be seen in the streets and alleys. According to my personal habit of looking for food, I must go to the school to have a look. After all, if it can be liked by the students, it must not be bad. After walking around I was attracted by an ordinary mutton restaurant.


As soon as I entered the door, I could smell the aroma of mutton. According to the recommendation of the boss, I ordered a bowl of mutton, a bowl of mutton haggis, and a bowl of sauerkraut mutton blood. When dipped in the boss's special dipping water, it is so spicy that you can't close your mouth from ear to ear, but once the spiciness is slightly reduced in your mouth, you will immediately pick up another piece.


The mutton soup must be served out alone, sprinkled with chopped green onion, coriander, and mint leaves, it will be rich and delicious in one bite.

In the future, when I hear those who say that they are willing to drive to Dechang to eat a bowl of mutton, I will definitely believe it. After all, the delicacy I tasted here is worth telling my friend that he must not miss it when he asks next time.



Ending: When I think of Dechang in the future, I know that there are not only warm sunshine and fruits, but also a rich history and the roll noodles, mutton noodles, and mutton that I can't forget during this journey.