written in front
This travel note has been dragged on for almost a year, and if it is delayed again, many stories and fun will be forgotten. The reason for this trip was to go to Changbai Mountain to see Tianchi, but Changbai Mountain was too far away, so I played some places along the way and rushed all the way to Changbai Mountain. This trip was short but very fulfilling. Fortunately, I saw the most beautiful Changbai Mountain Tianchi. At the mouth of the snow-capped volcanic lake, the blue sky reflected on the blue lake, surrounded by towering and forbidding mountains, its beauty exceeded my expectations, and the satisfaction that followed is still fresh in my memory.
Although I walked through Tianjin, Shanhaiguan, Shenyang and Changbai Mountain on this road, of course the most memorable day in Changbai Mountain was the day in Changbai Mountain. I still remember that evening, in the empty square in front of Baihe Station, I ordered a few dishes at an open-air Korean restaurant. , drank a can of beer, the fire cloud was burning in the west, and the Baihe River in the evening was a bit chilly. Backpacking alone made me feel like I had returned to the green years of college. The long-lost freedom and freedom made me fall into those years alone Memories on the road.
Look at the pictures first
About the itinerary
[D1: Tianjin] Runaway in Tianjin, looking for the past and present of Tianjin in the streets and alleys
Tour route: Marco Polo Square - Tianjin Ancient Culture Street (Tianjin Hometown) - Five Avenues - Porcelain Houses - Haihe River
Accommodation: youth hostel
[D2: Shanhaiguan] Xiongguan is a long road, standing at the foot of the Great Wall to appreciate the heroicness of the world's first pass
Tour route: Shanhaiguan Great Wall - Wang Family Courtyard
Accommodation: on the train
[D3: Changbai Mountain] From autumn to winter, the snow-capped Tianchi makes people cry
Tour route: Changbai Mountain Tianchi - Changbai Waterfall - Changbai Mountain U-shaped Valley - Julong Spring
Accommodation: on the train
[D4: Shenyang] From the Forbidden City to the Shuai Mansion, Shenyang has been here for 400 years
Tour route: Shenyang Forbidden City - Marshal Zhang's Mansion - Middle Street
Accommodation: youth hostel
[D5: Shenyang] September 18! September 18! A history of scars belonging to the country
Tour route: September 18th Memorial Hall - return from Shenyang Airport
strategy information
This trip has gone through Shenyang, Tianjin, Shanhaiguan, and Changbai Mountain. Among them, I will focus on sharing the strategy of Changbai Mountain. Because Changbai Mountain is far away, it is not easy to go there, so it is necessary to do a good job in the Raiders without leaving any regrets.
Changbai Mountain is located in the southeast of Baishan City, Jilin Province. The total area of the entire mountain range is 1964 square kilometers, and the core area is 758 square kilometers. The highest peak of Changbai Mountain, Jiangjun Peak, is located in North Korea. At present, Changbai Mountain has opened three entrances to scenic spots in China, namely the North Slope Scenic Area, West Slope Scenic Area and South Slope Scenic Area. The most mature ones are the North Slope and West Slope, and the North Slope has the largest number of tourists and the most scenic spots.
On this trip, I mainly went to the North Slope Scenic Spot of Changbai Mountain, so this guide mainly focuses on the North Slope Scenic Spots.
[How to get to Changbai Mountain? ]
Of course, the plane is the most convenient way to travel to Changbai Mountain. Changbai Mountain has its own airport; and the nearest station for tourists taking the train to the North Slope is Baihe Station in Erdaobaihe Town, Antu County, Yanbian Autonomous Prefecture. This train station goes to the North Slope Scenic Area. The entrance is only 35 kilometers away, and it takes 1 hour by car. There is a Changbaishan special line bus at the gate of the railway station. If there are many people, you can also take a taxi.
[How to buy tickets for Changbai Mountain? ]
The ticket for Changbai Mountain is 105 yuan, plus the transportation fee in the scenic spot is 85 yuan, a total of 190 yuan.
[How does Changbai Mountain go to Tianchi Lake? ]
To visit Tianchi, you need to go to the tourist service center at the foot of Tianchi to buy tickets. The cars up the mountain are jeeps or Mercedes-Benz vans. The round-trip ticket is 80 yuan, and the one-way journey takes about 30 minutes. The road up the mountain is a winding winding road, which is relatively swaying. Here I want to emphasize that if you go to the foot of Changbai Mountain, if the Tianchi Lake in Changbai Mountain is very poor, I personally suggest not to go up the mountain because you may not be able to see the Tianchi Lake when you go up.
[What Changbai Mountain must know in advance is the weather]
When planning to go to Changbai Mountain, you must do your homework, especially the weather, especially the rainy season from July to August and the winter from December to March of the next year, because you can't see anything on the top of the mountain in rainy days, and the mountain may be closed at any time in winter risks of. The best tourist season is autumn, with a high probability of sunny days. All in all, be sure to check the weather forecast when planning a visit.
[D1: Tianjin] Runaway in Tianjin, looking for the past and present of Tianjin in the streets and alleys
Sleeping overnight, from Huai'an to Tianjin, the weight gain made it difficult for me to turn over on the hard sleeper berth. Although the berth is not friendly to me, I enjoy lying on the berth listening to music and watching the constantly passing by the window. landscape.
It was early in the morning when I arrived in Tianjin. I used to think that Tianjin was like Beijing, full of old flavors, old sounds, and old streets at the foot of the imperial city. But when I really walked into Tianjin, I found that Tianjin is more diverse. It has both the soil of Tianjin Wei. culture, the foreign culture of the colonial period, and the trendy culture of the new era.
As one of the four major municipalities directly under the central government in China, Tianjin's development has benefited from the fusion of various cultures in the past 200 years. As the port where the British and French allied forces attacked Beijing more than 150 years ago and the first port city to open to the outside world, Tianjin has gradually developed in the torrent of history. Growth and development, Tianjin's overall pattern and architectural style were also slowly formed during this period.
On the way to Marco Polo Square, I came across the memorial hall of Mr. Liang Qichao by chance. As a bourgeois reformist and one of the leaders of the reformers, Mr. Liang Qichao and his master Kang Youwei launched the "public letter" that shocked the whole country. Although the Hundred Days Reform It was eventually destroyed by Cixi, but the Chinese people have truly awakened on the road of saving the country.
辛亥革命后,梁启超结束长达15年流亡生活,归国后便在天津定居下来,这也就有了这座梁启超纪念馆.走进这个院落,院落里坐落着两栋建筑,一座是梁启超先生的故居,另一座便是"饮冰室"书斋.
展馆主要以"梁启超与近代中国"为主题,将12个展室分6个部分再现了他传奇的一生.从初露锋芒公车上书到人生巅峰的戊戌变法,再到归国后在北洋政府中任职参与的护国战争,巴黎和会等.在近代中国,梁启超先生是不能不提的人物,他的影响力和人格魅力也远超他的老师康有为.
This modern academic giant is not only powerful in himself, but also very successful in educating his children. He can be said to have three academicians and nine sons are all talented. Among them, the story of the eldest son Liang Sicheng and his daughter-in-law Lin Huiyin may be the most familiar to everyone.
故居旁边的"饮冰室"书斋是梁启超晚年进行学术研究和写作的地方,楼内再现了当年梁启超先生治学的场景.室内陈设中西相兼,在这里梁启超先生完成<中国文化史>,<儒家哲学>,<辛稼轩年谱>等著名文章.
Mr. Liang Qichao's life is undoubtedly successful, whether in terms of academic studies, resumes, or educating children.
在马可波罗广场中心矗立着一座和平女神雕塑,主体建筑主要由喷泉水池,基座,罗马柱,和平女神像组成.在雕塑的基座上装饰了4个欧式人物雕像,而柱顶则是展翅飞翔的和平女神铜像,她手里拿着一枝橄榄枝,象征着"友谊和平".
This sculpture was designed and built by the famous Italian sculptor Giuseppe Boni to commemorate the victory of the First World War. Today, this sculpture has also become the symbol of Marco Polo Square and the most romantic place in the entire square block.
In Marco Polo Square, you can not only appreciate the unique Italian style, but also taste a lot of Tianjin specialties, such as Goubuli steamed buns, pancakes, etc. You can see it everywhere here, and of course there are many bars and western restaurants that are also very stylish.
It only takes 20 minutes to walk from Marco Polo Square to Tianjin Ancient Culture Street, and you can see the grand occasion of the Haihe River along the way. As the largest river in North China, the Haihe River runs through Tianjin, forming a perfect leisure scenery belt in Tianjin.
There are many bridges across the Haihe River. These bridges have different shapes and unique characteristics, which fit well with the city of Tianjin. The cruise ship is walking on the Haihe River, driving slowly, and the past and past of Tianjin are all told. I like this kind of river very much, it is clear and clean, beautiful and comfortable.
As one of the ten scenic spots in Jinmen, Tianjin Ancient Culture Street has always adhered to the operating characteristics of "Chinese taste, Tianjin flavor, cultural flavor, and ancient flavor". There are nearly a hundred time-honored shops in Tianjin here. Craft shop. Delicious food such as steamed stuffed buns, ear and eye fried cakes, pancakes and fruits, old Zhai medicine candy, nuts Zhang Tianjin Mahua, etc., and handicrafts such as clay figurine Zhang Caisu, Yangliu Qingnian painting, Zhang Xiaoquan and so on.
The most distinctive feature of Tianjin Ancient Culture Street is of course the Chinese elements. The most direct manifestation of these Chinese elements is the building itself. The red gatehouse sculptures, whether it is wall bricks or wood carvings, all reflect a strong folk flavor and auspicious and festive meaning.
At the north and south intersections of the Ancient Culture Street, there is a memorial archway respectively. The books read "Jinmen Hometown" and "Gushang Yiyuan". "Jinmen Hometown" means the old place of Tianjin Wei, and "Gushang Yiyuan" means The meaning of the cultural birthplace of Tianjin Wei.
The entire main cultural street is actually not long, only more than 600 meters. There are various plaques and couplets along the way, which is exactly what it looked like in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Because it is the National Day, the Ancient Culture Street is full of people, it is really a sea of people, there are you and me.
At the end of the Ancient Culture Street, there is an ancient building nearly 800 years old. It is the Tianhou Palace in Tianjin, which is also the Mazu Temple in the south. Since Tianjin is also near the sea, Tianjin people have the belief in Mazu. Every temple fair, there will be a It is very lively, and today's Tianhou Temple also assumes the function of Tianjin Folk Museum. Through this window, everyone can also have a good understanding of Tianjin's historical changes and folk customs.
Although the history of Tianjin is not long, Tianjin has a strong sense of existence in the past 200 years, and this ancient cultural street has also witnessed the changes of this period of time.
Compared with Beijing's well-regulated, crowded and busy, I prefer Tianjin's leisure and romance. Tianjin's Five Avenues are like Qingdao's Badaguan and Xiamen's Gulangyu Island. This place was once the British Concession, and century-old buildings that combine Chinese and Western styles can be seen everywhere. As the street with the most historical value in modern Tianjin, many generals or writers from Beiyang and the Republic of China lived here.
The Xiannong Compound on Five Avenues is a villa area developed and established by Westerners in the 1920s. Here I have to mention one person, that is, Hoover, the 31st President of the United States. Hoover was one of the seven promoters of Shannon Company. This president also made a lot of money in China. However, in terms of politics, he did not perform well as a president. The US economic crisis before World War II discredited him, and then he also achieved the legendary life of President Franklin Roosevelt.
Today's Xiannong Compound has been transformed into a creative and cultural block, where there are performances or exhibitions every day.
There is an exhibition hall of Ma Zhanshan's former residence in the Xiannong compound. Ma Zhanshan used to be the general of the Northeast Army, the commander of the Heihe garrison, the chairman of the Heilongjiang Provincial Government, and the commander-in-chief of the Northeast Advance Army. There were two bright moments in his life, one was the Jiangqiao Anti-Japanese War, which was a classic battle in 1931 when the Chinese fired the first shot of the Anti-Japanese War; the other was the peaceful liberation of Peiping.
Ma Zhanshan was not highly valued during the Kuomintang period, and he had been idle in Tianjin for a long time. This house was his former residence in Tianjin from 1934 to 1937.
Ma Zhanshan's life is well suited to several titles in the exhibition hall, the first shot of the soul of the country, the first shot of the soul of the army, the great cause of China's map of China, the relationship between Yan'an and the new life, the patriotism and peace, and the loyalty in the sky. It reflects his life's lofty pursuit and great insight.
Although there are many tourists on the Five Avenues, its space is large enough to accommodate tens of thousands of tourists. Of course, the best way to visit such a large scenic spot is to take a horse-drawn carriage or ride a shared bicycle, which can be very good energy saving.
Today's Five Avenues are mainly historical blocks with Dali Road, Munan Road, Changde Road, Chongqing Road, and Chengdu Road as the core. There are many unique historical buildings in each street.
During the Northern Expedition and the Anti-Japanese War, it also became a safe haven for many celebrities and wealthy people. Sun Dianying, the thief of Dongling, Zhang Xueming, the second brother of Zhang Xueliang, Yan Huiqing, a modern diplomat, and Zaizhen, the former Prince of Qing Dynasty, all bought real estate here. However, the most interesting building in the Five Avenues today is the Geda Building.
Gedalou should be a low-profile version of Porcelain House. In the 1990s, Zhang Lianzhi, a famous businessman and collector, bought the Geda Building, and on the basis of the original, decorated the Geda Building with porcelain pieces and stone tools from the Ming and Qing Dynasties in China, although today's Geda Building is not It is not open to the public, but we can still appreciate Zhang Lianzhi's design. Although this design has no aesthetic feeling, it is indeed very special.
Through the window holes in the wall, there are white marble carvings and architectural products of various periods piled up everywhere in the courtyard. Some people think that Gedalou and Porcelain House are like brothers, but one is really beautiful and the other is ugly.
The predecessor of Gedalou was an Italian-style townhouse built by the British Shangnong Company. It was in 1937. At that time, the designer deliberately chose over-fired bricks from Tianjin Xiqinglongtan Kiln Factory, because these bricks It is overcooked, so there are many lumps, which is why the Pimple Building got its name.
The most spectacular and core building in the Five Avenues is the Minyuan Stadium. Looking at the Minyuan Stadium from the outside, it looks like a grand palace building, like the Colosseum in ancient Rome, and also like a modern stadium, although this stadium has existed for nearly 100 years. Walking into the stadium, because it is the National Day, it is like a park, where tourists sit on the lawn, chatting and relaxing.
When A-A was popular all over the country, Minyuan Stadium was the football hall of Tianjin. As the home stadium of Tianjin people, it has witnessed the joys, sorrows, sorrows and joys of Tianjin football, and it also carries the fond memories of a generation. By the time of the Chinese Super League, the Minyuan Stadium was also abandoned.
On the second floor of Minyuan Square, Tianjin Heping District Government has specially set up a Tianjin intangible cultural heritage exhibition hall. The pavilion is divided into four parts: "Jin Taste", "Hundreds of Operas", "Medical Way" and "Work Skills", fully displaying 48 existing intangible cultural heritage protection items in Tianjin.
In the "Jinwei" exhibition area, we can see all kinds of traditional delicacies in Tianjin, as well as their production techniques and historical origins, such as Tianjin's Goubuli steamed buns, pancakes, roast ducks, biscuits, etc. The inheritors of material cultural heritage are carrying forward.
In addition to food, Tianjin is very famous for its various skills, which can be seen in several production areas of "Baixi", "Medical Dao" and "Gongqiao". Through these pictures, we will travel back to history and feel the unique leisure and comfort of Tianjin.
Tianjin's cross talk, Pingju, Hebei Bangzi of Wei School, Jingyun Dagu of Luo School, Kuaiban Shu of Li School, and Leiqin La Opera all have local characteristics. I have watched a variety show related to intangible cultural heritage on Beijing Satellite TV before. Demonstrated the classical tricks of Tianjin. Classical tricks are traditional Chinese magic. Although they are not as mysterious as modern magic, they are all original Chinese classics. Therefore, Chen Daoming, who grew up in Tianjin, fully praised it .
Intangible cultural heritage is not as stylish as other heritages, but as an important part of cultural heritage, it is also the skills or lifestyles that people have accumulated in their production and life, inherit and develop these intangible cultural heritage, and for the inheritance of characteristic culture, Carrying forward the national spirit plays an important role.
From the Five Avenues, it takes 20 minutes by car to reach the Porcelain House, an internet celebrity attraction in Tianjin. The "Huffington Post" of the United States once listed the Porcelain House together with world-renowned art museums such as the Louvre and the Denver Museum of Art as one of the top 15 uniquely designed museums in the world.
The porcelain house itself is a small French-style building with a history of more than 100 years. Zhang Lianzhi, the owner of the house, decided to build this small western-style building into this porcelain house because of a flash of inspiration.
The entire Western-style building is covered with tiles and porcelain. It is hard for us to imagine how many ancient porcelains are needed to make it. Walking in the porcelain house is like being in a kaleidoscope, dizzying. The value of the porcelain house is mainly reflected in these tiles. It is said that the entire porcelain house is inlaid with more than 700 million pieces of tiles, including celadon from the Jin Dynasty, tri-colored porcelain from the Tang Dynasty, Jun porcelain from the Song Dynasty, Longquan porcelain, blue and white porcelain from the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, and colorful porcelain from the Qing Dynasty. etc., among them there are some high-quality official kilns.
We all know that the English of porcelain is CHINA, which is also the English of China. To a certain extent, porcelain embodies the great creativity and craftsmanship of the Chinese people, so we are endowed with CHINA.
Chifeng Road, where the Porcelain House is located, is also very famous, because 15 warlords including Zhi, Feng, and Anhui once lived on this street, so it was also called Dujun Street. When Zhang Xueliang lived in Tianjin, he lived in the Marshal's Mansion next to Li Ci's house.
In the evening, walk to the Haihe River to see the river view, feel the breeze on the lake and the neon lights of the city. Above the Haihe River, there is a famous landscape, which is the landmark of Tianjin-Tianjin Eye. Tianjin Eye is actually a Ferris wheel. Sitting in the Ferris wheel, you can overlook the beautiful scenery of Tianjin.
[D2: Shanhaiguan] Xiongguan is a long road, standing at the foot of the Great Wall to appreciate the heroicness of the world's first pass
In the early morning, depart from Tianjin High Speed Rail and arrive at Shanhaiguan Station soon. Shanhaiguan is located in Qinhuangdao City. It only takes about 10 minutes to walk from Shanhaiguan Station to the Shanhaiguan Gate Tower. The entire small town is almost built around the Great Wall of Shanhaiguan.
Shanhaiguan is named Shanhaiguan because it is close to the mountains and the sea. It also has the sayings of Yuguan and Yuguan. It is one of the northeast passes of the Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty. The Great Wall was rebuilt in Shanghai, and most of the Great Wall we see today is the Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty. Shanhaiguan is the starting point of the eastern end of the Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty, and it is also the first pass of the Great Wall, so it has the reputation of the first pass in the world.
走进城门,取完票,沿着石阶登上城楼,山海关内城全景尽收眼底,关外的原野和丛林一望无际.当年满清的八旗子便是从这里被吴三桂引入关,"京师之保障"一破,明王朝便不堪一击,爱新觉罗家族也开启大清朝300年的统治.
Climb to the Great Wall of Shanhaiguan, the solid city walls, wide trails, crenels extending to the distance, and the potholes on the stone roads of the Great Wall, people can't help but think of the busy and war-torn years, whether it is the Ming Dynasty, Qing Dynasty, or During the Japanese war of aggression against China, Shanhaiguan was a topic that could not be avoided, because after leaving Shanhaiguan, you arrived in North China, and Beijing had no barriers.
Of course, Shanhaiguan is not only a Great Wall, a pass, but also a city. It takes the Great Wall as the main line and the pass city as the center. It has 7 acropolis, 10 passes, dozens of city towers and beacon fires. Complete and strict ancient city defense buildings and military defense system, this is why its location is important.
There are four closed gates in the east, west, north, and south directions of Shanhaiguan: Zhendong Gate in the east, Yingen Gate in the west, Wangyang Gate in the south, and Weiyuan Gate in the north. Among the four city gates, Zhendong Gate is the most famous, because it builds a building on the city platform, and has a huge plaque of "the first gate in the world" hanging in front of the upper archway.
The plaque of "No. 1 Pass in the World" is more than 5 meters long and 1.5 meters high, and each character is more than 1 meter long. These five characters are all in regular script, with vigorous and vigorous writing, but there is no inscription left on the plaque, which has also caused many legends , but it is now recognized that it was written by Xiao Xian, a famous calligrapher of the Ming Dynasty, and Xiao Xian was also a native of Shanhaiguan.
It is said that the real plaque of the "No. 1 Pass in the World" was plundered to Japan by Japanese invaders during the Anti-Japanese War. The plaque now collected upstairs in Shanhaiguan is a plaque engraved in the eighth year of Guangxu, while the plaque hanging outside the building was engraved in 1929.
At the foot of the east gate of the town, there is a military department. The Ministry of Military Affairs is a typical Chinese-style building. Along the central axis, there are mainly the gate of the department, the gate of vertical flowers, the main hall, the hall, the middle hall, the bedrooms, and the study. It mainly shows the old appearance of the ancient Chinese military departments, the military status and historical changes of Shanhaiguan.
The Ming Dynasty was a typical Han regime, and the Confucianism it inherited was just like the active defense policy of our country today, "If you don't attack me, I won't attack you." Therefore, the Ming Dynasty rebuilt the Great Wall on the basis of the original Great Wall, and Shanhaiguan is an important gateway to the Northeast. Since the Xuande period of the Ming Dynasty, the establishment of the Ministry of Military Affairs can also reflect the importance that the Ming Dynasty attached to the stability of the north. As the only branch of the Ministry of War , The army stationed here is very brave and good at fighting.
Looking at the dozens of soldiers in the main hall, Wu Sangui's name may be the most eye-catching. As a famous treacherous person in history, he first surrendered to the Qing Dynasty, and then attacked the Qing Dynasty under the guise of anti-Qing and Ming Dynasty, and finally his family was ruined ,notorious.
Of course, this branch of the military department is not equal to Wu Sangui. It has a great deterrent effect on the later Jin (Qing Dynasty) in history, otherwise Nurhachi would have competed in the Central Plains long ago. Of course, today's city gate is just a historical memory and belongs to this period. The Great Wall also belongs to the small city of Shanhaiguan.
Most of the areas in the old city have been developed into scenic spots, but there are still old streets and alleys in the inner city. Many local residents still live in these old streets and alleys. They have guarded the city for hundreds of years. , These old houses.
There is a typical northern residential building in the inner city. It is the Wang Family Courtyard. Although it is not as famous as the Qiao Family Courtyard, almost no one in Shanhaiguan does not know the Wang Family Courtyard. Because during the Qing Dynasty, the Wang family was the richest family in Shanhaiguan, and its wealth and power occupied "half of the country" in Shanhaiguan, so there is a saying of "the southern half of the city".
The entire courtyard covers an area of more than 10 mu, with a construction area of 2,000 square meters. It is divided into three courtyards with a reasonable layout. There are living rooms, bedrooms of the master's house, kitchens, houses for servants, and vegetable gardens. Today, this royal courtyard is open to the public as a local folk museum. Although the courtyard looks very large, the visit time is only about 30 minutes.
Of course, as far as the northern folklore exhibition is concerned, it is still worth seeing here. After all, this is the compound of rich merchants in Shanhaiguan. The furniture, gold and silver jewelry, candlestick lights, beds, cabinets and tables, copper pots, pearls and jade treasures and the four treasures of the study are all here. Very old.
When I came out of the Wang Family Compound, I ended my trip to Shanhaiguan. Shanhaiguan can be visited for a day, but I only have half a day to take the high-speed train to Shenyang from the station. In the evening, I will take the overnight train to Baihe Station in Yanbian, Jilin, because that is My final destination is Changbai Mountain.
Shenyang has two trains to Baihe every day. It takes about 13 hours, but the price and time are relatively good. You can visit Changbai Mountain directly when you arrive at the station the next day.
[D3: Changbai Mountain] From autumn to winter, the snow-capped Tianchi makes people cry
On the overnight train, although the upper bunk sleeps a little uncomfortable, the excitement of the upcoming arrival is getting stronger and stronger. The branches and leaves of the trees outside the window show colorful colors, which reminds me of the time when I went from Harbin to Mohe with a backpack alone The scene, 23 hours of hard seats, double-decker train, there are not many passengers in the car, the loneliness and colorfulness of the Northeast are constantly played in front of the window, and the 23-hour train is actually very short.
After eating a bowl of unsouped soup Daren, I got off at Baihe Station. Baihe Station is located in Erdaobaihe Town, Antu County, Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture. Only 35 kilometers. After getting off the train, the coolness makes people walk into the early winter in an instant. There is a bus dedicated to going to and from the North Slope Scenic Spot of Changbai Mountain at the train station square. The 60 yuan round-trip package takes about 1 hour from the train station to the North Slope Scenic Spot. drive.
There is no ticket window in Changbai Mountain. Tickets need to be purchased online in advance, and then swipe your ID card to enter. I entered the mountain on October 5th. Although there are many tourists, it is generally not crowded. The scenic spots on the north slope of Changbai Mountain mainly include Tianchi Lake, Changbai Waterfall, U-shaped Canyon, Julong Spring, Green Water Yuantan, etc.
The first thing you arrive at by the tourist bus is the next stop of Changbai Mountain Tianchi. The most worth seeing in Changbai Mountain is Tianchi, but the Tianchi on the top of the mountain does not climb all the way up, but you need to take a jeep or a Mercedes-Benz bread. The road up the mountain is very long and tortuous. Various curves make people sway with the car, so passengers must hold on to the handrails because there are many sudden stops and sprints along the way.
Along the way, the scenery outside the window is majestic. Whether it is the winding road or the endless forest sea in the distance, the autumn colors are painted on the forest sea, just like a natural palette.
The cars in the scenic area are running water buses, one after another, shuttling on the mountain every day. When you reach the top of the mountain, you will reach the edge of Tianchi Lake. The thing that surprised me was the white snow on the mountain. The thick white snow made me feel like I had come to winter, but the mountain was not as cold as winter. I was still wearing autumn clothes, carrying a bag, and walking on the snowy road. The top of the mountain.
There are two viewing platforms on the north slope, the viewing platform on the west side is relatively small, and the viewing platform on the east side has a longer tour route. Of course, the scenery seen is basically the same. However, it seems that the observation deck on the east side is more worth seeing, and the tourists line up the most.
Changbai Mountain Tianchi is different from Tianshan Tianchi in Xinjiang. The Tianchi in Changbai Mountain is a dormant volcano, and the crater accumulates water to form a lake. Tianchi Lake is as high as 2,100 meters above sea level, with a water area of about 10 square kilometers and a total water storage capacity of 2 billion cubic meters. It is the largest volcanic lake in China and the deepest alpine lake in the world. Of course, it is also the border line between China and North Korea.
Before I came to Changbai Mountain, I did a guide. Seeing Tianchi is completely dependent on luck, because Changbai Mountain is high in altitude, and rain and fog may occur at any time. Even if the sky is clear and the sun is shining, there may be rain and fog around the Tianchi Lake on the top of the mountain. Fortunately, autumn is the best season in Changbai Mountain, and I also saw the purest Tianchi as I wished.
Changbai Mountain Tianchi is very honorable in the Northeast and even the Korean Peninsula. It is the birthplace of Manchu and the holy mountain of Manchu culture. The Manchu people entrusted the word "Changbai" in Changbai Mountain with the meaning of long-term protection and white head. During the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty, Emperor Kangxi came all the way from Beijing to Changbai Mountain to worship the sky. Later, in order to protect Changbai Mountain, he even issued an order to block Changbai Mountain. Changbai Mountain was blocked for more than 200 years. It was not until 1860 that Changbai Mountain was lifted. For Qing emperors, Changbai Mountain is where their dragon veins lie.
For North Korea, Mount Paektu (Changbai Mountain) is the birthplace of their great leader and the source of the Korean national spirit. Last year, inter-Korean relations eased, and Chairman Kim invited South Korean President Moon Jae-in to climb Paektu Mountain to express national friendship.
Many people may not understand that Changbai Mountain has always belonged to China since the founding of New China. Until 1962, at the request of Kim Il Sung to "establish a holy place for the Korean revolution", the Chinese and Korean governments re-demarcated the border, and the Chinese national border line was set back 30 in the Tianchi area. Kilometers away, Changbai Mountain has also changed from unique to China to the boundary mountain between China and Korea, and Tianchi has become a boundary lake.
Although Changbai Mountain is the border between China and North Korea, most of Changbai Mountain is still in China. The east slope of Tianchi Lake is the border of North Korea. Standing beside Tianchi Lake, we can clearly see the cableway of North Korea. There are often North Korean ships cruising in Tianchi Lake.
The 10-square-kilometer water surface of Changbai Mountain Tianchi is surrounded by 16 peaks, and the reflection of the mountains on the lake is very beautiful. Among the many peaks and rocks in Changbai Mountain, there is a yellowish-brown peak that is very special. It is Jinchanwofeng. It is a magma cone solidified after the eruption of Tianchi Lake. It looks like a huge three-legged golden toad from a distance, looking up to the sky. . Although Changbai Mountain is not a famous mountain in the traditional sense, it is still well-known in the Northeast because it is the birthplace of the Yalu River, Songhua River and Tumen River.
In the rest area by the Tianchi Lake, I bought 3 hot spring eggs. The runaway in Changbai Mountain is also supported by these eggs and snacks, but the taste of this egg is really super good.
At the foot of the mountain, drive to Changbai Waterfall. From the foot of the mountain along the turbulent river, you can hear the roar of the waterfall from a long distance. When you walk to the viewing platform of the waterfall, you can't help but think of the poem describing the Changbai Waterfall: "On both sides of the Baihe River The scenery is beautiful and secluded, and the clear water and cliffs flow forever. It is suspected that the Longchi is spraying auspicious snow, just like flying streams hanging from the sky."
Changbai Waterfall is the largest volcanic lake waterfall in the world, with a drop of more than 70 meters from top to bottom. The viewing platform of the waterfall was not built to the foot of the waterfall, so the waterfall can only be viewed from a distance. Even so, the sense of shock is still very strong.
The main reason why Changbai Mountain can become a sanctuary is that there is a natural volcanic hot spring downstream of Changbai Waterfall. This hot spring is Ambergris Hot Spring, also known as Julong Hot Spring.
From the waterfall to the Julong Spring, there are dozens of springs distributed on the ground of more than 1,000 square meters. Countless hot streams gushes out from the ground, like a group of dragons spraying water. The hot spring water here is generally maintained at 60-80 degrees Celsius. place, eggs can be cooked quickly.
The most special feature of Julong Hot Spring is that these springs are rich in iron, copper, magnesium, manganese and other mineral ions. And other mineralized layers, like a natural oil painting, hanging in the Grand Canyon, very beautiful.
Walking on the spring water, the steaming hot spring water exudes mist, like a fairyland. The hot springs in Changbai Mountain belong to volcanic hot springs. It is known as "Shenshui". It can relax muscles and activate blood circulation, dispel cold and eliminate diseases, especially for arthritis and skin diseases. Visitors who have time can stop and enjoy the gift between heaven and earth.
Going down from Julongquan is the U-shaped Grand Canyon of Changbai Mountain. The entire canyon is about 300 meters wide and more than 100 meters deep. Standing on the top of the canyon, overlooking the canyon, the trees on both sides grow tenaciously along the mountain, and the In the canyon, rivers and gravel roads have experienced vicissitudes.
This canyon is the largest canyon on the northern slope of Changbai Mountain. It was formed during the Quaternary glacier movement, and was formed by planing and eroding loose volcanic strata and deep depressions. Due to its large scale and long history, this U-shaped ice valley is in the history of world geology. It also has its own place.
Walking into the depths of the canyon, you have to go through the virgin forest of Changbai Mountain. The roads in the virgin forest are well developed. Walking on the boardwalk and walking through the jungle, although you don't know the way out, you just need to walk along it here.
The Erdaobai River flows in the forest. As the source of the upper reaches of the Erdaobai River, the water of the Baihe River has been integrated into the sulfide water of the Julong Hot Spring Group. Due to years of erosion, the Baihe River has cut into an underground river with a depth of 7-8 meters in the valley. , the channel of the underground river is narrow, hidden in the grass and birch forest, it is easy to miss if you don't pay attention.
This section of water, Changbai Mountain also gave it the name of the underground running river. Walking to the river, the water in the stone stream is white and clear.
Walk out of the birch forest and come to Lvyuantan. Lvyuantan is as quiet as a paradise. There is a pool of green water, and two streams of mountain springs fall into it. Cold-water fish such as golden trout and red trout swim freely in the water. Movement and stillness are perfectly combined here.
After walking the northern slope of Changbai Mountain for a day, I only have one day here for myself, but I completed my expected itinerary perfectly, so I left Changbai Mountain without regret.
It was only after 5 o'clock when I arrived at the square of Baihe Station, and my train returned to Shenyang at 7 o'clock. More than 2 hours, waiting for the sunset, but also waiting for the train. In such a small northeastern station, I chose to have a full meal in an open-air restaurant. After all, I was hungry all day, and the sunset gradually fell, and the sunset in the west was particularly beautiful. Then the curtain of night fell, and the lights on the square lit up the entire train station. Sitting on the stone steps, I enjoyed the solitude and the joy of traveling.
[D4: Shenyang] From the Forbidden City to the Shuai Mansion, Shenyang has been here for 400 years
Returning to Shenyang from Changbai Mountain, I found the capsule hotel I booked in Shenyang Middle Street. Wash off the exhaustion of the night on the train, lie on the chair on the balcony, the warm autumn sun shines on the body, look at the tall buildings, flip through the pictures of Changbai Mountain in the camera, thank such good luck, and meet the best weather .
In the afternoon, I went to the two most worthwhile places in Shenyang with my backpack on my back. One was the Shenyang Forbidden City, and the other was Zhang's Marshal's Mansion.
According to the map, stepping on a shared bicycle, we soon arrived at the street where the Shenyang Imperial Palace is located. In the antique streets and alleys, the red palace walls are very eye-catching. This was once the birthplace of the Qing Dynasty. From Nurhachi to Huang Taiji, they worked hard and worked hard to create the glory of the Aixinjueluo family here.
There are only two Forbidden City in China, one is Beijing Forbidden City and the other is Shenyang Forbidden City. Compared with the household name of the Forbidden City in Beijing, the Shenyang Forbidden City is relatively unknown, because the Shenyang Forbidden City was used as an imperial palace for a very short time, only 19 years, from Nurhachi to Shenyang, and then to Huang Taiji for continued construction, and to Beijing after Emperor Shunzhi Although the current Shenyang Forbidden City is large in scale, many of them were expanded and improved by later emperors.
Today's Shenyang Forbidden City covers an area of 60,000 square meters, and has more than 100 buildings, including large and small palaces, pavilions, and pavilions, and more than 500 rooms. From the perspective of the building itself, the Shenyang Forbidden City is an imperial palace after all, and its texture and delicacy are still very exquisite, especially those glazed tiles and cornice brackets, which may only have such configurations in the imperial palace.
Similar to traditional Chinese palace buildings, the Shenyang Forbidden City is also divided into three entrances. Simply put, it is three parts, East Road, Middle Road, and West Road. On the middle road, Daqing Gate, Chongzheng Hall, Phoenix Tower, Qingning Palace, etc. are distributed on the central axis. This is mainly the bedroom where Huang Taiji carried out political activities and lived after he ascended the throne.
Climbing up the steps and passing through the high Phoenix Tower, you can see five buildings with front and back corridors on the hard mountain. Ning Palace, Linzhi Palace, Guanju Palace, Yanqing Palace, Yongfu Palace, etc.
These five palaces and the Phoenix Tower form a square square, which is like the courtyard structure in the north. Each house becomes a palace, and everyone can see it without looking up. As for which concubine the emperor went to, it is even more obvious at a glance.
One of the five buildings is relatively famous, that is Yongfu Palace, which used to be the place where Empress Dowager Xiaozhuang lived and where Emperor Fulin of Shunzhi was born, so this house is visited by many tourists, but from From the perspective of its interior decoration, there is not much difference between these buildings.
In fact, in the harem of the Shenyang Imperial Palace, the Phoenix Tower is the most magnificent. It used to be the tallest building in Shengjing, and there is a plaque "Purple Qi Comes from the East" inscribed by Emperor Qianlong himself on the upper floor. The main function of the Phoenix Tower is to facilitate observation and keep abreast of the dynamics of Shengjing.
The East Road is mainly the Dazheng Hall and the Ten Kings Pavilion built during the Nurhachi period. Dazheng Hall is the palace built by Qing Taizu Nurhachi. As the most sacred place in the entire Shenyang Imperial Palace, ceremonies such as the emperor's enthronement, the issuance of imperial edicts, and the march of the army are all held here.
In fact, Dazheng Hall is also a pavilion, but it is Nurhachi who sits here, so in order to reflect the status, the size and decoration of this pavilion are more gorgeous and rich, so it becomes a palace, and the Ten Kings Pavilion is located on both sides of Dazheng Hall. The fonts are arranged in order. It used to be the place where Nurhachi discussed and held affairs with the owners of the Eight Banners and ministers.
However, those who are interested will find that this layout and structure are very similar to the tents of Mongolian and other ethnic minorities, and these 11 pavilions are actually the embodiment of 11 tents, reflecting a change in Manchu horse culture.
The Ten Kings Pavilion is a manifestation of the Manchu Eight Banners system, of which the five pavilions on the east side are the Left Wing Wang Pavilion, the Xianghuang Banner Pavilion, the Zhengbai Banner Pavilion, the Xiangbai Banner Pavilion, and the Zhenglan Banner Pavilion, and the five pavilions on the west side are the Right Wing Wang Pavilion and the Zhenghuang Banner Pavilion. Pavilion, Zhenghongqi Pavilion, Xianghongqi Pavilion, Xianglanqi Pavilion. Today, in each pavilion, the glory and history of each flag are also told, as well as some stories of the early Qing Dynasty.
The west road is mainly composed of stage, Jiayin hall, Wensu Pavilion and Yangxizhai. These buildings with relatively leisure functions are mainly the places where the later emperors read, watched plays and stored books. , often work and play here.
During the 150 years from 1671 to 1829, Emperor Kangxi, Qianlong, Jiaqingguang and many other emperors visited the tombs of their ancestors 10 times to express their admiration for their pioneering merits. Feelings.
Nowadays, these palaces have basically been converted into exhibition halls, mainly exhibiting the court culture and ornaments of the Qing Dynasty, as well as some clan systems of the Qing Dynasty, etc. When visiting the Shenyang Forbidden City, we can find some bits and pieces of many court dramas, perhaps also a kind of fun.
To a certain extent, the Shenyang Forbidden City is the exhibition hall of the Qing Dynasty. Visitors who are interested in the history of the early Qing Dynasty can take a good look here.
Walking more than 500 meters south from the Shenyang Imperial Palace, you will arrive at Zhang's Marshal's Mansion, which used to be the official residence and private residence of Zhang Zuolin and his eldest son Zhang Xueliang. It was the power center of the entire Northeast during the Beiyang period.
The entire Shuai Mansion is large in scale, covering a total area of 36,000 square meters, of which the construction area is 27,600 square meters. From 1916, Zhang Zuolin moved into the Shuaifu, and the Shuaifu was expanded to varying degrees, gradually forming the current layout of the Shuaifu consisting of the East Courtyard, Middle Courtyard, West Courtyard and buildings outside the courtyard.
The architectural style of the Marshal's Mansion is very interesting, including Chinese style, Roman style, Nordic style and other architectural styles, which is very similar to the Presidential Palace in Nanjing. Entering Zhang's Marshal's Mansion, the front hall is basically completely Chinese style, with an antique courtyard, spacious and grand, and you must be familiar with some of the scenes here after watching "Young Marshal" starring Li Xuejian and Wen Zhang.
In the commander's mansion, the operation mechanism and layout of the commander in the Beiyang period are highly restored, and the legendary life of the Northeast King is reproduced. In today's Marshal's Mansion, apart from the stylish Chinese courtyard, the most magnificent building is the Daqinglou, the landmark building of Zhang's Marshal's Mansion. Daqinglou was named "Brothel" because it was built with green bricks.
There is a building in Shuaifu called Xiaoqinglou. Xiaoqinglou is located in the garden center of Shuaifu. It is a typical brick and wood structure small building. This building does not have political functions like Daqinglou. This building itself was built for Zhang Zuolin built this house to please his fifth wife Shou.
Of course, there is still a reason why Zhang Zuolin dotes on Mrs. Shou, because of her intelligence and composure, as well as her foresight in the face of major events. After Zhang Zuolin was killed in an ambush by the Japanese in Huanggutun, the body was quickly transported to the small brothel of the Marshal's mansion. Before the big change, Mrs. Shou kept calm and blocked the news of the Marshal's death, and let the Japanese who came to inquire about the news He returned without success, and at the same time quickly notified Zhang Xueliang to come back to preside over the overall situation.
When you enter Daqinglou, you have to pass through a rockery. On the rockery gate, there is a plaque of "Heavenly Law and Human Heart" written by Zhang Zuolin, and on the north side is "Careful Action". There are pavilions and stone steps on the mountain, which are said to be built under the command of Marshal Zhang Zuolin himself.
The whole building adopts Western style, with a construction area of more than 2,000 square meters and a total of three floors. Daqinglou is a combination of office and residence. As an important office during the period when Zhang Zuolin and Zhang Xueliang were in charge of the Northeast, it has experienced two major historical events such as the Zhifeng War, the Northeast Change of Banner, the Yang Chang Incident, and the mediation of the Central Plains War.
At present, the first floor of Daqinglou is mainly Zhang Zuolin's office and meeting room, and the second floor is Zhang Xueliang's office and living room. On the first floor, there is a very famous small conference room, which is the Tiger Hall. This conference room got its name from the two tiger specimens given by Tang Yulin.
On January 10, 1929, Zhang Xueliang ordered the execution of Yang Yuting, a veteran of the Feng Dynasty, and Chang Yinhuai, the governor of Heilongjiang Province, on the charge of "obstructing the New Deal and undermining reunification". This is the "Yang Chang Incident" affecting the Northeast. This incident established Zhang Xueliang's political status in the Northeast, but it also had an impact on the forces in the Northeast.
The Office of the Northeast Political Affairs Committee was once the highest decision-making body in the Northeast, and the members of the committee were the core personnel of the Northeast regime. Zhang Zuoxiang, Zhang Jinghui, Tang Yulin, etc. were all members of it. In "Young Marshal", there are many scenes of meeting places. Meeting here.
On the second floor, Zhang Xueliang's office, Zhang Xueliang and Yu Fengzhi's living room are restored. The exhibition hall on the west side of the second floor mainly displays some pictures and materials of Zhang Xueliang and Zhao Yidi during their lifetime.
Miss Zhao Si Building is located on the east side of the Shuai Mansion. It is a very beautiful single-family villa combining Chinese and Western styles. From 1928 to 1930, Miss Zhao Si lived here briefly. The reason why Miss Zhao Si can be remembered is mainly because of her lifelong guardianship with the young marshal. From the glorious deputy commander-in-chief to being a prisoner, after traveling to Taiwan and then to the twilight years in the United States, they guarded the whole life, plain and full of legends.
The whole building is exquisite and grand, with both traditional Chinese-style gold-painted paintings and European-style carved columns. After all, it is a residence, so the number of tourists that the small building can accommodate is very limited. Walking into the small building, there are living room, dance hall, living room, study, dining room, piano room, office, etc., which highly reproduce Miss Zhao Si and the young marshal. A real scene of living together.
The young marshal was full of vigor when he was young, but he was still plain and simple when he was an octogenarian. He seemed to be indifferent to everything and saw everything clearly, so his life was very long, and he did not die until he was a hundred years old. The relics of the past, let everyone remember him.
Perhaps the evaluation of the young marshal on the Internet is always full of controversy, but our country has given him a high degree of affirmation. No one is perfect, and he can sacrifice himself in the face of big right and wrong, and keep the bottom line. It is worthy of recognition.
Next to Shuaifu, there is a Bianye Bank that belongs to the three northeastern provinces. During the Beiyang period, Bianye Bank was the largest commercial bank in the Northeast. Now it serves as a financial museum for tourists to visit, where everyone can fully understand the operation mode of commercial banks in the past and the development process of the financial industry.
The entire bank building covers an area of more than 4,000 square meters, of which the construction area is more than 7,000 square meters. The main building of the front building has four floors. The first floor is the lobby of the bank. In the lobby, the wax figure reproduces the busy scene of the Bianye Bank during the Republic of China, just like the feeling in the film and television drama. Tourists can take photos with them while walking among them, and also can truly experience the transaction methods of banks at that time.
In the exhibition halls on the second floor of the bank, there are the office of the general manager and the display of some currencies of various periods. At that time, in addition to handling deposit lending, discounting, exchange and other businesses, Bianye Bank also issued currency and acted as an agent for the treasury. When the Zhang family was in charge of the Northeast, it was once one of the largest banks in the Northeast. It accounts for more than 95% of it, so to a certain extent, Bianye Bank is actually the private bank of Zhang and his son.
Of course, the fate of Bianye Bank also changed with the fate of the Zhang family. After September 18, Bianye Bank was taken over by the Japanese army and merged into the puppet "Central Bank of Manchuria". And Zhang Xueliang set up another head office of Bianye Bank in Tianjin, but as Zhang Xueliang was placed under house arrest due to the "Xi'an Incident", Bianye Bank was declared closed that year, ending its history.
Back to Middle Street, which is one of the busiest commercial streets in Shenyang. At night, the neon lights of Middle Street are shining. Walk into the restaurant, eat some local specialties, and watch the people coming and going outside the window.
[D5: Shenyang] September 18! September 18! A history of scars belonging to the country
When I was about to leave Shenyang, I got up early and went to the "September 18" History Museum. As a Chinese, I should keep in mind the "September 18" incident. As the starting point of the Anti-Japanese War, I walked into this museum. It is located in the History Museum of Wanghua South Street, Dadong District.
The entire museum is a history of the humiliation of the Northeast people who suffered from Japanese imperialist aggression, and it is also a history of the anti-aggression, anti-slavery, and indomitable struggle against Japan by the people of the Northeast and the whole country. The residual calendar monument standing outside the exhibition hall is the most classic reflection of the history of September 18th.
This giant residual calendar monument is shaped like a desk calendar with the date of the September 18th Incident. The surface of the monument is covered with bullet marks and skeletons. Looking at this monument closely will make people feel sad.
The entire new hall covers a total area of 35,000 square meters, with an open area of more than 9,000 square meters and an exhibition line of 510 meters long. There are 7 exhibition halls in total, which are the historical background of the September 18th Incident, the outbreak of the September 18th Incident and the fall of the Northeast, the bloody rule of Japan in the Northeast, the anti-Japanese struggle of the Northeast military and civilians, Japan's expansion of invasion of China and the National Anti-Japanese National Salvation Movement. The upsurge, the outbreak of the National Anti-Japanese War and the final fate of the Japanese invaders, the people of China and Japan look forward to peace with history as a mirror.
展馆主要通过图片和实物展示日本帝国主义发动"九一八"事变起因,过程以及奴役中国人民的罪行和沦陷区人民的苦难生活,还有就是沦陷区人民不屈不挠的斗争事迹.
After going through this period of history, from darkness to struggle to victory at dawn, the Chinese have gone through 100 years of humiliation. Now we are walking on the broad road and entering a new era. Looking back on the past, we will not forget the history. This may be the thing our generation should learn the most.
Walk out of the history museum, go back to the hostel, pack up my luggage, and fly directly from Shenyang Xiantao Airport to Huaian Lianshui Airport. At the airport, my lover and son are there to pick me up, thank you!
