I do not recommend the hotel! ! ! Ctrip added it after reviewing the travel notes! ! ! Friends who know how to remove it, please let me know
I. Introduction
In November 2018, I took my father on a 9-day trip to Yunnan. Autumn and winter in Yunnan are off-seasons for tourism, air tickets and hotels are relatively cheap, and the flow of people is less than in peak seasons. The following introduces the pre-departure preparations:
1. Clothes: Most of Yunnan belongs to the plateau, among which Lijiang and Dali are more than 2,000 meters above sea level, and Shangri-La is more than 3,000 meters above sea level. The temperature difference between morning and evening in the three places is close to 20 degrees. It is recommended to wear a thick coat + thin shirt + long T for daytime clothing. Sunscreen products and hats are necessary. You don’t need to bring too much clothes, they are too heavy. There are no buses in Lijiang Old Town, and it is very tiring to drag your luggage on the stone road. I made this mistake and told my dad that Yunnan was very cold, but the two of them didn’t wear any clothes except the clothes they were wearing and their underwear.
2. Air ticket: This trip was decided by seeing the special air ticket by chance. The round-trip air ticket from Nanchang to Lijiang was 700 yuan per person, and the bus to the airport was 65 yuan per person; the return trip arrived in Nanchang very late because of the flight delay, so I refused In a black car, I took the airport bus to Nanchang Station to go home by train. When I came back, I was still very tired, because the road was too much toss.
3. Hotel: The south gate/north gate of the ancient city is recommended for Lijiang accommodation. It is convenient to go to various scenic spots or other places by car, and it is close to the exit without dragging luggage for a long time. The marked waterwheel and bar street are near the north gate; the south gate is closer to the bus station and Zhongyi market, and quieter than the north gate. If you just come to Lijiang for a daze, the inns inside the ancient city are better and the scenery is better. In terms of price, it depends on personal choice. In the off-season, ordinary inns (with a small yard and general conditions) have a minimum of dozens of dollars, and there is no upper limit for boutique hotels. The price/performance ratio: folk houses outside the ancient city < Shuhe inn < hotels inside the ancient city < small inns near the north and south gates. I personally don't recommend Shuhe Ancient Town. This is a village for local residents, and you can experience life, but the roads are narrow, and travel is all by chartered cars. There are also buses, but you have to walk. There is also Baisha Ancient Town, which I saw on the way to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The customs and customs there are better preserved, but I won’t comment if I haven’t been there.
4. Local transportation: To go to the scenic spots, you have to sign up for a small group, and all transportation is included in the group fee. The driver or tour guide will determine the boarding location and time one day in advance, and tell the license plate number to pick it up when the time comes. Generally, the time is around 6:00 or 7:00 in the morning. This is to avoid hitting the time with large tour groups. Go to Dali and choose to make a car, and order it online, the same as above. Reminder: You have to find a car by yourself, and if you haven't arrived, you must call the driver.
DAY1 departure
The plane at 3:00 p.m. arrived at Nanchang Changbei International Airport by bus at around 11:30 p.m., which took an hour and a half. There is nothing to eat at the airport, just eat on the second floor, the food is really average, mainly salty.
It was the first time I flew by plane, ticket collection, check-in, security check, and waiting for the plane. Except for my dad's lighter being confiscated, everything else went smoothly.
The plane arrived in Lijiang at about 7:00, and the airport bus was 20 people, only accepting cash. The journey took nearly an hour, and we arrived at the Minhang Lantian Hotel not far from the North Gate. The airport bus can only sit here, and the price of the private car is negotiated by yourself.
I took Didi to the south gate, and chatted with the driver for a while. The driver is a local, and also works part-time in tour group business and oxygen sales. Lijiang is really a tourist city.
The inn has been booked in advance, and the boss called and said to pick us up, but we walked in and no one picked us up, which led to getting lost in the end, and! ! ! The inns in the ancient city formed an alliance. We dragged our heavy luggage to the inn with the right name. The younger brother said that it was in another one. Later, I carefully checked the room information. It turns out that the name of the room hides the name of the inn. For example, XX single room, this XX is the name of the inn you actually stayed in. The boss gave us a free upgrade to the family room, which is very ethnic.
Seeing that we didn't eat, we introduced another restaurant that eats Nasila pork ribs. The price is very reasonable, and the two of us ate more than 80 yuan.
Lijiang has the largest number of Naxi people among the ethnic minorities, and its food is characterized by various hot pots. The most famous ones are pork ribs and local chicken, which are similar to northern hot pot meals. In Lijiang, I ate a bowl of rice noodles for dinner, and I ate all kinds of pots. Water-borne poplar is a characteristic of vegetarian dishes. It is said that it is an aquatic plant in Lugu Lake. It has extremely high requirements on water quality, so you can try it.
DAY2 Jade Dragon Snow Mountain
A one-day trip to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in a treasure newspaper, including tickets, travel expenses, lunch and oxygen. The tour guide and driver - a Naxi brother confirmed the time and place with me last night. Because of the time difference, the dawn in Lijiang is later than in Beijing, and it is always dark when you come out in the morning. Arrived at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain at 9 o'clock, and played the big cableway + Blue Moon Valley. Before going up, each person received a bottle of oxygen and a down jacket. The tour guide reminded me how to use oxygen and the importance of oxygen. Altitude sickness is not covered. All public transportation in the scenic area is included in the ticket, and the routes are different, so you must confirm when you get on the bus.
About chocolate: High altitude mountaineering is very exhausting, so I brought a Snickers bar. There is no need to buy the ones in the scenic area, which are more expensive than outside. You don’t need to buy too much, one is enough for one person, and there is also food at the rest stop on the mountain.
It took about fifteen minutes to ride the cable car. As soon as a gust of cold wind came out, the temperature dropped to below zero in an instant. The zipper of my down jacket was broken. Fortunately, I was wearing a jacket inside and I was not frozen to death. My dad didn’t notice that he only wore a pair of trousers today, and he didn’t want to climb the mountain anymore, so he kept warm at the rest station. It is said that the yak milk sold there tastes good.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is currently open to the highest altitude of 4680 meters. Although it is snowing and the visibility is low, tourists are still scrambling to take photos on it. I also met three couples who took wedding photos on the mountain. I admire it. I eat chocolate while walking, without using oxygen, and my body is fine. It's better to come in summer, when the sky is fine, you can see the top of the snow mountain.
At noon, the tour guide brother took us to the village to eat local chicken hot pot. It is self-service, don’t waste it, there are a lot of vegetables, and the taste is similar to that in the city.
In the afternoon, visit the Blue Moon Valley. Blue Moon Valley is located halfway up the mountain, where you can see the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain in the distance. There are three lakes and two waterfalls in total, and the water quality is blue-green, so beautiful. There are more people taking wedding photos.
In the evening, I ate at Yongxia Snacks in Zhongyi Market. There are many local people, the price is cheap and delicious, and the rice is full. Most of the meals in Lijiang will be eaten here.
TIPS: The formation of the summit is usually done in the morning, because the local weather is changeable, and the cable car will be out of service if the weather is bad in the afternoon. For example, there was a hailstorm when we were eating at noon.
DAY3 Ancient City Tour + Lijiang Eternal Love
I originally planned to go to Lugu Lake. On the way back from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain yesterday, my dad saw the advertisement for the performance of Lijiang Eternal Love. After arriving at the inn where I will stay today, I reported a two-day trip to Shangri-La with the boss, and I gave Eternal Love/label Choose one of the two for one night. Since I was really not interested, my dad watched the show and I chose the accommodation.
Lijiang Eternal Love will receive a text message after booking a ticket, and you can take a free bus at a designated station by text message, and you can also collect tickets by text message. My dad got on the bus at the bus station closest to the south gate, and the last bus departed at 1:40 in the afternoon. According to my dad, the performance was very good, the story and stage effects were good.
I visited the whole ancient city alone. The ancient city of Lijiang in the eyes of tourists is actually the ancient city of Dayan, the center of ancient Lijiang. Strictly speaking, the ancient city has no gates or walls, but it is actually open. The entire ancient city is centered on Sifang Street, extending all around in a series of alleys. Now there are shops and no local residents live in the ancient city. The river network inside the ancient city is densely covered, and the water quality is clear. You can see flowers and grass within a few steps, and you can sit and rest when you are tired, and the pace of life will slow down.
I have no interest in shopping. Flower cakes, dry cakes, silver jewelry, and snacks are sold everywhere. The Naxi architecture consists of three squares and one screen wall. Three sides of the courtyard are residential houses and one side is a wall. If you are interested in architecture, it is recommended to visit in the morning, because everyone is not up. Overlooking the whole picture of the ancient city, you can go to Lion Mountain or Dayan Flower Lane. The steps of Lion Mountain are steep, and the viewing platform on the mountain charges tickets. There are also many teahouses on the mountain where you can order tea and enjoy the beautiful scenery in the store. Dayan Flower Alley is newly developed. When I went there, many shops were not open, and the view can only be described as so-so.
The scenic spots inside the ancient city are marked on the ancient city tour signs, and it is easy to find. In addition, the public toilets in the ancient city are maintained very clean, not inferior to those at home.
In the evening, we returned to the inn after eating near the big waterwheel, and watched a bonfire dance on Sifang Street.
The inn brother talked about the precautions for going to Shangri-La tomorrow. Although the report is a low-cost group, it is not a shopping group. If there is a mandatory consumption, let us contact the inn. The tour guide is a Tibetan. Because the evaluation of Shangri-La in the news was not very good, I was a little worried about the trip to Shangri-La tomorrow and the day after tomorrow.
DAY4-5 Shangri-La
As usual, we set off in the morning. The Tibetan tour guide + the Han driver. The tour guide on the bus introduced the itinerary for the two days. He spoke Chinese very well, did not bring a knife, did not swear, and did not force shopping, but! The most irresistible show of weakness is coming! Why is the economic level in Tibetan areas not good? Consumption drives economic development. In the end, the entire tour group bought something and didn’t buy anything. The Tibetan compatriots didn’t curse or beat anyone in the end. There is no such thing as a knife holder The situation in the neck arises. However, according to our tour guide, there are still some tour guides who will swear at people. It’s okay not to buy anything, and you can give you the travel expenses to get a ride back. You still have to be careful when reporting to the group.
The first day was pure fun. I went to Tiger Leaping Gorge in the morning. On the way, the tour guide pointed to a long and narrow road in the mountains opposite the road and said that it was the Ancient Tea Horse Road. There are still people walking it. Glancing at the rushing river, it was really dangerous. What Tiger Leaping Gorge is looking at is the river, and the viewing platform can meet the needs of taking pictures. The tiger stone carvings are all tourists taking pictures, so they don't join in the fun.
Lunch at the designated restaurant is very satisfying, with vegetables and meat. This can't help but remind me of the group meal that cost 20 yuan in Guilin, which is really heaven and earth.
After entering Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in the afternoon, the scenery directly transitions to alpine meadows, and the number of houses gradually decreases, but they are all Tibetan-style houses. Diqing Prefecture is divided into a new city and an old city. The old city is the ancient city of Dukezong, which is the place for shopping tomorrow. There is a store on the road that specializes in selling products for high altitudes. It can detect the content of oxygen bottles. I have both oxygen and rhodiola. Just in case, I bought another bottle. Oxygen 68, Lijiang has a maximum of 20. I don’t know if it is The content is different.
Fortunately, it was a sunny day when we visited Pudacuo Forest Park, and the temperature did not drop so badly. As the name suggests, this scenic spot is looking at the lake. The lake is surrounded by grass, without any artificial traces. In autumn and winter, you can only see trees, which are not as beautiful as spring and summer flowers. I saw several squirrels in the scenic area, and they ran very fast.
The tour guide has been telling us about Tibetan customs and stories on the road, and at night, we go to the restaurant of the local people to eat Tibetan food. It is not accurate to say Tibetan food, because it is a combination of small hot pot + tsampa. First of all, I entered the door to send Hada and took a photo with the Tibetan grandma. The photos were purchased voluntarily. In the middle of the hall is a square stage, surrounded by long tables and benches, no matter which tour group it is, it is full. First taste the tsampa, wash your hands, scoop some highland barley, pour a little butter tea, knead it into a piece with your hands, eat it, the taste is not bad. The hot pot is self-service again, and there is really too much meat. The climax was in the song and dance performance. The children in the Tibetan area were singing and dancing. The grandma who took the picture just now is over 70 years old. She sang really well, especially our audience shouted after the guys on the stage. In the end, everyone came together. HAPPY circles around.
I stayed at the business hotel next to the Xincheng Court at night. It was very cold at night. Lijiang and Dali don’t have to use electric blankets. Shangri-La must use electric blankets! ! !
On the second day of Shangri-La, I went to the ancient city of Dukezong. The shops in the ancient city were basically closed in the off-season, and I only admired the Tibetan architecture. I still bought things, my dad bought jade, and I bought saffron and Gastrodia elata. What is very annoying is that when I buy medicinal materials, I completely stand on the same front with the merchants. Buy more, this place must be authentic. The pit must be jumped, anyway, let people make a lot of money. Still a word: buy a hammer for non-shopping groups. I will go back to Lijiang after buying it. Before leaving, go to the prayer wheel to turn the prayer. This thing is really super heavy. It is recommended that multiple people turn it at the same time.
DAY5-7 Dali
Depart in the morning and take a car for more than three hours to the north gate of Dali Ancient City. Note: Dali Station is located in Xiaguan Town, Dali Ancient City is in Dali Town, you can take a bus to get there. The variety of vegetables here is much more than that in Lijiang, and many restaurants put fresh vegetables outside for customers to watch and order. The meal I ate at Cang'erchun in the city at noon, the most memorable one is the carved plum meat, the meat has turned sour, so it is not recommended. The cold snails are delicious and served with rice. But it didn't meet Dad's taste, he didn't eat well this meal.
Because Shangri-La's funds were almost used up, it directly caused the subsequent formation level to plummet. The inn map is cheap and I booked an inn in the village one kilometer away from the west gate of the ancient city. We were tired enough, and we still had to consider comfort when we brought the elderly out. We were supposed to go to the Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple after the rest, but because we arrived too late and had to charge tickets, we changed our itinerary and took the bus to Caicun Wharf to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Erhai Lake at close range. The sun is setting, the wind is blowing, looking at the blue sky and white clouds, leaving all the troubles of the city aside, it is comfortable.
I went directly back to the restaurant in the village for dinner. It was cheap, good quality, home-cooked food, and my dad was very satisfied with it.
On the second day of coming to Dali, we split up after breakfast. At the innkeeper, I signed up for a one-day tour of Erhai Lake on a cruise ship for my dad, and I rented an electric car to go around Erhai Lake. The electric car rented in the village requires 80 yuan with two batteries. The boss said that it can go around. Cycling all the way along the national road, stopping at the Zhou Baozhong Memorial Hall, Xizhou Ancient Town, and Shuanglang Wharf, the time problem is only half a circle.
The Zhou Baozhong Memorial Hall commemorates General Zhou Baozhong, a general of the Bai nationality. There are few places to actually visit. It just happened to meet middle school students doing patriotic education, so we will withdraw~
Xizhou Ancient Town retains a large number of characteristic buildings of the Bai nationality, and is still the living place of the Bai people. There is no commercialization, and many old houses are still inhabited. The owners of the houses have written a reminder of 2 yuan to visit at the door. As an iron rooster, it's fine to pat on the side of the road. I couldn't find a place to park my electric scooter, so I parked in the alley next to the market to save a parking fee. Going to the market to join in the excitement, people in different places have different lifestyles, just like to find this kind of difference, life needs fireworks.
The Yan Family Courtyard Museum next to Sifang Street in Xizhou is the ancestral home of the Yan family. The tour guide who rubbed against others learned about the family history and architectural features of the Yan family, especially the four windows at the four corners of the second floor of the No. 4 courtyard. The small Western-style building in Building No. 5 is my favorite Western-style building in the Republic of China. It is well preserved, but it is a pity that I cannot live in it.
At noon, it was so hot that it exploded at 20 degrees, and I simply ate shredded bait, which was a spicy appetizer. Twenty-one thinks it's not worth it if he didn't eat the famous crispy cake.
Continue to ride to Haitong Park. This place is named after the shape of a tongue. In the village, you don’t need to think about the supporting facilities. You can take a villager’s carriage from the main road to the small road. I walked for more than one kilometer under the scorching sun and entered the park road The green trees on the side blocked the sunlight and finally breathed a sigh of relief. In fact, there are not many viewing areas, especially there is a piece of reed mud that cannot be walked through at all, and you can come if you have enough time.
Next, I went to Shuanglang Ancient Town non-stop. There are two roads to go here. Anyway, I walked blindly and finally arrived. I saw beautiful scenery on the road and stopped to take pictures. The commercial atmosphere of Shuanglang is stronger than that of Xizhou, and many of them have been repaired. Yang Liping's villa and Nanzhao style island are all here. Originally, there were many homestays here, but because of the pollution problem, the government dropped a lot in order to protect Erhaiguan. Nanzhao Customs Island is another ticket, and there is a parking lot for electric vehicles. After buying the ticket, board the boat. To be honest, there is nothing interesting about this island, except that the statue has a beach with a transparent ball chair on it, which is very nice to take pictures.
After visiting Nanzhao Customs Island, it was already very late and we had to return immediately. Passing through many villages on the road, watching the elderly slowly go home is really a kind of quiet and peaceful feeling. BUT! ! ! It was getting dark soon, and the road was obviously getting colder and colder, and the wind started to pick up. After dark, I was still riding on the dark national road, and my nose was coming out.
My dad was much happier. He watched the three-course tea performance of the Bai ethnic group on the cruise ship, and took a group photo with the younger sister of the Bai ethnic group. He disembarked and visited Shuanglang Ancient Town. In the afternoon, he went to the peacock base to watch the peacock performance.
The third day plan in Dali is to have a wave in the ancient city of Dali in the morning and take the train to Lijiang in the afternoon. We are separated for shopping, and I also went to Dali University. The bus fare in Dali varies from one yuan to five yuan. I took the one-yuan bus and drove up the mountain to the school gate. After entering the school, I had to climb the mountain again. This school really trains people. Because of the school's terrain, it is a very good viewing platform, overlooking the ancient city and Erhai Lake. The environment in the school is also good. Some students are serious about reviewing in front of the teaching building.
Next, talk about the ancient city of Dali. The ancient city of Dali and the ancient city of Lijiang are compared to the ancient city in people's traditional concept. It has four gates, high walls, neatly planned areas in the city, and the buildings and buildings absorb the architectural style of the Han nationality. There are also many flower cakes in the city, and the overall price is cheaper than Lijiang. In addition, there are Dali milk fans. I bought a baked one, dipped it in rose sauce, and brushed it.
There are still many cultural relics protected buildings in the city. I visited the Dali City Museum and took a tour guide to explain, talking about the real Duan family and stone monuments in history. Although there are many people, it is very interesting.
My father went shopping in the ancient city and bought a stone mortar. Can't this thing be purchased online? Forget it.
In the afternoon, take the bus to Dali Station. You can scan the bus code on WeChat for this bus. I don’t know what else you can do. At Lijiang Station, there are only two trains to Dali a day. I heard that Lijiang will open a high-speed rail at the end of the year. I don’t know if there are any now. I like the massage chair on the second floor of the station very much, it is very comfortable to press.
When I checked the air ticket, I found that I misread the time. I still have to stay in Lijiang for another day.
I have to say that this train is very interesting. It is the first time for me to take a soft sleeper instead of a hard seat. The lower berth of the soft sleeper is equivalent to 4 hard seats for 4 people, and the upper berth is for luggage. Seats are ok, but 8 people in a confined space is a bit stuffy. The uncle and aunt on the opposite side are actually members of the cruise group with my dad. The fate is so wonderful that the conversation started immediately. Because most of the soft sleepers are tourists, everyone exchanged travel experiences together, and got off the bus as soon as they talked.
DAY8 Lashihai, Mufu
I had to arrange activities for the extra day, and reported to the innkeeper for the Lashihai tour. Except for the first night in Lijiang, I stayed in the same inn for the rest of the nights. The proprietress was kind when I went to Lijiang and Shangri-La That saved my luggage.
There are many horse farms in Lashihai Scenic Area, which are divided into several grades according to the riding time and distance. The reported group includes lunch. A private car came to pick me up. I exchanged tickets at the racecourse and entered the venue with the ticket. Those who sell gloves at the entrance do not need to buy them. After riding my hands, there is no problem. The process is to get on the horse, the groom leads the horse up the mountain, down the mountain, eat, and end. Because the boating event has been canceled in Lashihai, the main thing is horse riding. I came to play with my dad, and I am not interested in this. When riding a horse, you must be upright, otherwise you may fall off the horse when going up and down the mountain. Halfway through the ride, there will be a bean seller who sells beans for ten yuan a plate. My dad thought it was free and bought two sets at once. I didn’t believe it when I asked for money. At noon, I ate chicken hot pot. There are really many vegetarian dishes. The main dishes are sweet potatoes and lotus whites. I didn't finish them in the end.
After lunch, I went back to the inn for a rest and went to Mufu. Originally, the people in the inn said that the back door of the Mu Mansion could be entered, but now there are people guarding the back door of the Mu Mansion. Tickets are 40, half price for those over 60 years old. The Mufu as a whole imitates the reduction of the lighting of the Forbidden City, and with years of repairs, the color is brighter than that of the Forbidden City. There are free explanations in the scenic area, and if there are many people, they will talk. It talked about the rise and fall of Mufu and the functions of various houses and components, especially the "overpass" (I really forgot what it was called) in Mufu, which is a manifestation of the chieftain's love for the people. When I went there, Tianlong Babu was filming in the back garden, so I couldn't go in and visit the last house. After watching the filming, it was really stupid, and special effects need to be added in the later stage. The building on the mountain (I still don't remember what it's called) is also good to see the panoramic view of the ancient city.
DAY9 return journey
I packed my things in the morning, had lunch at Yongxia Snacks at noon, and went home.
Finally, let’s talk about the cost, because this is a poor trip, the total cost of the two people is more than 6,000 after excluding the shopping cost. But it can also be seen from this travel note that in fact, the game is not very good, so you still have to consider the needs of the other party when traveling together, don't pick hard, and everyone should have fun when you come out to play.