The Ngari region of Tibet is located in the west of Tibet and the south of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau (Qiangtang Plateau), with an area of ​​345,000 square kilometers and an average altitude of 4,500 meters. It is known as the roof of the world, and its capital is Shiquanhe Town, Gar County. Many places here are uninhabited areas, but the Himalayan orogeny has created beautiful and original ecological mountain topography, and the scenery is extremely ancient and rare.

I have been to Tibet in 2007, but Ngari has always been one of my next travel destinations. An outdoor advertisement in XX in early summer attracted me, and I immediately asked my donkey friend Lao Cai to sign up.


September 15:

Because the 48-hour nucleic acid certificate is required for entering Tibet, we chose the plane + train mode. First fly from Hongqiao to Xining, and then take the train to Lhasa, which not only guarantees the validity period of the nucleic acid, but also saves some money. Figure 3 shows the first snow when the train passed through Nagqu.


September 16:

Train Z21 arrived at Lhasa Station at noon. I booked the hostel near the business district of Jokhang Temple and stayed at the Home Inn Parkview Hotel. After the pick-up car sent by the travel agency arrived, we first visited Barkhor Street according to the plan, then went to Yaowang Mountain to photograph the Potala Palace, and then took a taxi to the Lhasa River near Nanshan. mother river.

September 17:

Today is the gathering day. After moving to Minshan Silver Bridge Hotel, we first went to the Sera Monastery, one of the three major temples in Lhasa. First, we wanted to take a panoramic view of Lhasa, and second, we wanted to see the so-called "debating scriptures", but the main hall site is not allowed to take pictures . In the rest of the time, take a taxi to the Lhasa Museum, which is now called "Tibet Million Serfs Liberation Memorial Hall". Although the collection is small, it is of great educational significance.

Stay at Minshan Silver Bridge Hotel


September 18:

Today is the departure day for the "14th 13th Night Ali Grand Ring Road". The driver is Tenzin, a Tibetan youth, and the car is a Toyota Land Cruiser. The other two tourists, one is also from Shanghai and is approaching retirement; the other is from Hubei and is also a photography enthusiast.

Today's itinerary is: Lhasa - Yamdrok Lake - Karola Glacier - Shigatse (370 kilometers, 10 hours)

Crossing Gangbala Pass (4441 meters)


The first scenic spot: Yajiang River Valley.


Yamdrok Yongcuo is one of the three holy lakes in Tibet, with an altitude of 4,441 meters, a total length of 250 kilometers of shoreline, and a total area of ​​638 square kilometers, spanning multiple counties and cities. We watch and shoot in multiple dimensions (mountain top, lakeside and other locations). The weather today is very good, with blue sky and white clouds, and the beautiful scenery of Yamdrok Yongcuo is unobstructed. It made up for the shortcoming of seeing nothing in the foggy valley in 2007.


After 4 hours, drive to the "Dakaruola Glacier" (this glacier can only be said to see the snow-capped mountains, and did not see the typical ice tongue)



View "Naiqin Kangsang Snow Mountain" from afar


Overlooking the "Manla Reservoir"


Dubu Gyantse "Zongshan Anti-British Site"


Stay in Shigatse "Sheli Bieyuan Hotel"


September 19:

Today's itinerary: Shigatse - Lazi - Gyatso La Pass - Everest Base Camp (352 kilometers, 7 hours)

In order to reach the base camp of Mount Everest before sunset, we gave up visiting "Zabrun Temple" and went all the way. After 5,000 kilometers on National Highway 318, you will arrive at Lazi, the origin of Tibetan knives, and then pass through the Tingri border inspection station to arrive at "Mount Everest National Park". Tickets are 130 yuan per person, and free for those over 70 years old. After crossing the 5,200-meter Gyatso-la Pass, I saw a very shocking scene on the viewing platform: a panoramic view of the four 8,000-meter peaks of the Himalayas. After a few hours of driving, I arrived at the Everest bus interchange station, and the ticket was 120 yuan for a round trip. The Jingjiao bus arrived at "Rongbuk Temple" in one hour, which is very close to the base camp of Mount Everest. At this time, the sky is still bright, and there are not many people in the scenic spot. Xusou, the night is sinking to the west, and the setting sun shines on Mount Everest, showing a piece of golden yellow, which is still eye-catching in the clear blue sky. Rizhao Jinshan, you're done! That night, the driver and I stayed in Basong Village, while Sun and Zhang lived in tents and camped in the camp.

enter the sanctuary


Looking at Mount Everest from the viewing platform


park gate


103 turn on the road to heaven


Gyatso La Mountain Pass Observation Deck:


Everest Base Camp (5200m)



Rongbuk Monastery


Rizhao Jinshan perfect process:


September 20:

Today's itinerary: Basong Village - Gangga - Shishapangma Reserve - Pekutso - Saga (390 kilometers, 6 hours and 30 minutes)

Today is a long journey. After bidding farewell to Mount Everest, we will drive along National Highway 219 to Old Tingri County. After lunch, enter the Shishapangma Reserve, Shishapangma Peak, 8027 meters above sea level. Consisting of three sister peaks with similar heights, it is an 8,000-meter-level mountain completely in China, with well-developed glaciers. Then drive into "Peku Lake" to enjoy its lake and mountains up close. In the evening, stay at the "Yizhan Manor Hotel" in Saga County.



Tibetan Hotel


Early morning in Basong Village


State Road 219 is neat and straight


shishapangma



uncommon sheep


The wild donkey that often breaks into the camera


Pekutso:,



Saga's hotel lobby


September 21:

Today's itinerary: Saga - Payang - Manasarovar - Gang Rinpoche - Tarqin (510 kilometers, 11 hours)

This is a relatively straight road to the northwest. Get up early in the morning, pass a pass, there are lakes and wetlands, sand dunes and grasslands, this is the vast Zhongba grassland. After lunch in Payang, you will officially enter the Ngari area after crossing the Mayumu Pass. At this time, the terrain is more open and there are many wild animals. In the evening, I finally saw the sacred lake "Manasabad Yumcuo". We drove in from the torii temple in Manasarovar, then went down to the lake, then went to "Ang Lacuo" (ghost lake) not far away, and then returned to another viewing point of Manasarovar, having fun and drinking Then turn around and drive to Tarqin Town at the foot of the sacred mountain "Kang Rinpoche", and stay in "Himalayan, Kailash Mountain Hotel". Today happens to be the Mid-Autumn Festival. The bright moon is like a plate, if you want to take pictures of the starry sky, you can only give up.

Reflection in the lake on the way:


sand dunes, snow mountains, lakes


Payang Town, lunch here.


Enter Ali area:


Passing through "Gongzhucuo"


Scenery on the way


"Manasarovar Yongcuo" is 4588 meters above sea level and covers an area of ​​412 square kilometers. It is the second largest freshwater lake in my country and one of the three holy lakes in Tibet. It is backed by the Namunani Snow Peak and adjacent to the Kailash Sacred Mountain in the east, with beautiful scenery. It is the "holy lake" designated by Tibet's Bon religion and Hinduism.

Torii Temple



Adjacent to the holy lake is the ghost lake "Ang Lacuo", but it is a saltwater lake, the kind of lake where there is no wind and no waves. The two lakes that are close to each other have different expressions, which is really magical.


Another entrance to Manasarovar:


Stay at Gang Rinpoche Hotel during the Mid-Autumn Festival


September 22:

Today's itinerary: Tarqin - Colorful Mountain - Zada ​​Earth Forest - Guge Ruins - Zada ​​(280 kilometers, 12 hours)

Kailash Rinpoche is 6,638 meters above sea level and is the main peak of Mount Gangdise. It is considered a "divine mountain" in many countries in West Asia and is the center of the world. Therefore, many people come here to worship and turn around the mountain. We went to the service center of the scenic spot early in the morning, but the clouds were thick and it was difficult to see the real face, so we can only hang up the photos taken yesterday. The colorful mountains and soil forests were all photographed on the way to Zada. It was past 2 o'clock in the afternoon for lunch in Zada ​​County, and then I checked into the hotel. After a short rest, I went to visit the "Guge Dynasty Ruins", which is about 17 kilometers away from here.

Gang Rinpoche's majestic mountain

Kailash Service Center


Colorful Mountain:


Capture on the way


"Zada Soil Forest", according to textual research, it was a big lake millions of years ago. After the Himalayas orogeny and crustal changes, the lake water receded, and the bottom of the lake was washed by rain and water, and it became what it is now. This is the vicissitudes of life in the long river of history. For life is just a fleeting meteor in the vast starry sky, I sigh, the universe is vast, and life is small.


Shiquan River:


"The Ruins of the Guge Dynasty", Guge was founded in the ninth century and experienced sixteen generations, but it disappeared strangely in the seventeenth century. This abandoned palace standing on the top of the mountain has been lost for three hundred years. It's brilliant now.


Stay at "Tiln Castle Hotel":


September 23:

Today's itinerary: Zada ​​- Xiayi Valley - Shiquanhe Town (370 kilometers, 7 hours)

After a night of rest, the fatigue gradually subsided. In the desolate yellow, passing through a white soil forest, it is abrupt and conspicuous. It is Xiayi Valley (no ticket required, no one to manage). The "Piyang Dongga Cave Ruins", which was originally scheduled to go, was temporarily changed to "Piyang Grotto Ruins" due to maintenance. Because there is no restaurant, I ate cooked instant noodles at the small shopping department of the Tibetan family at the Piyang ruins, and stayed at "Tibet Ali Hotel" late.

phone selfie


"Xiayi Valley" soil forest is a soil forest ditch with unique landform discovered in recent years. Its color is much richer than other soil forests, and its shape is also very magical. The key is that you can drive in without buying a ticket. It is an ideal place to shoot the stars at night. It has been listed as one of the 100 best photography spots in Tibet by China Geography magazine. Today's weather is bad, there is no sunshine, guess if there is a morning and evening glow, it is simply an alien planet.


"Piyang Grottoes Ruins" is also located in Zada ​​Tulin Valley. Thousands of caves of various shapes are scattered on the mountain wall. It is a large site composed of temples, castles, grottoes and tower forests. In nearly a thousand years. Experience the ups and downs of the Guge Dynasty. Gradually integrated with the yellow hills behind, this is history.

Murals have been around for thousands of years


Over the mountains:


Enter Shiquanhe Town, Gar County


Stay in "Tibet Ali Hotel"


September 24:

Today's itinerary: Gar (Shiquanhe Town) - Pangongcuo - Ritu - Gar (300 km. 5 hours)

Today, we mainly go northward along National Highway 219, to the "Pangongcuo" at the border of China and India 150 kilometers away, and then return via Ritu County.

Pangongcuo is an international lake, one-third of which belong to foreign countries. It is narrow and long from east to west, about 155 kilometers, and the narrowest point from north to south is only 55 meters. The water in the east section is fresh water, while the west section (Kashmir controlled by India) is salt water. It is surrounded by mountains, the water quality is crystal clear, and the scenery is very beautiful.

The scenery beside the national road (stop to take pictures):


"Pan Gong Cuo":

The lake water is clear, the visibility is 3-5 meters, and the fish in the middle of the lake are clearly visible.


Bird Island is 300 meters long and 200 meters wide. It is a paradise for birds from May to September every year.


The cruise is 60 yuan per person, about 50 minutes.


Panorama


Rock Carvings of Ritu


September 25;

Today's itinerary: Shiquanhe Town - Geji - Yare - Rendo (425 kilometers, 8 hours)

This is the beginning of the Ali North Line. We will go deep into the no-man's land of Qiangtang. From this point on, the road conditions will become worse and worse until there is no way to go. You can only drive according to the rut of the vehicle in front. Because it is no man's land, the scenery is the most primitive, giving people a kind of desolate beauty. All the way through Cuonacuo, Daban, Salt Lake, and plateau meadows, I have encountered wild donkeys, black-necked cranes, and Tibetan gazelles. The driver, Tenzin, also showed off his special skills, driving a Toyota cruiser and galloping in the wilderness. "No Ali, no Tibet". Damei Ali will make you unforgettable forever. Stay at "Renduo Xinyue Inn" that night.


Gergi? eat chinese here


Tso Natso


salt lake


Renduo Village


September 26:

Today's itinerary: Renduo - Cuoqin (280 kilometers, 6 hours)

Today, I have been driving in no man's land all day long. Grasslands, Gobi, lakes, and salt lakes can be said to be changing scenery every moment. The majestic atmosphere of Renqing Xiubucuo, the unpredictable Dazabuye Salt Lake, and the sapphire-like water of Dawacuo all show the beautiful scenery of Dali. Measure one after another, it is called one measure after another, ha! ha!

The first "Renqing Xiubucuo" is formed by the fusion of snow water at the northern foot of Gangdise Mountain. The small hills protruding from the lake extend to the shore, forming a semi-arc peninsula, which is extremely beautiful.


difficult road


The second one is "Dazabuye Chaka", which is a salt lake. Here you will find that the surface of the lake is very large, some lakes are as calm as a mirror, and the reflection of the blue sky clouds is clear, some lakes are dry and salty, and some are half lake and half salt like fishing nets, which is very strange.

This golden fox is no longer avoiding people


Chinese food on the spot



Follow along, Tenzin is the leading brother.


The third one is called "Angla Rencuo"


The fourth is "Dawacuo":


Stay at "Cuoqin Xinkun Hotel"


September 27:

Cuoqin—Dangre Yongcuo—Wenbu South Village (322 kilometers, 10 hours)

This is a magnificent day on the Great Northern Line, with scenery worth looking forward to - Zari Nanmutuo, Dangre Yongcuo and Wenbunan Village. Today, I saw 4 lakes, and stayed overnight in Wenbunan Village, a beautiful Tibetan village.

Passing National Wetlands:

"Zari Nanmucuo" is about 54 kilometers long from east to west, 18 kilometers wide on average from north to south, with an altitude of 4650 meters and an area of ​​1023 square kilometers. It is the third largest lake in Tibet. Surrounded by mountains in Zarinanmucuo, the lake is blue all the year round, and the small islands in the lake are like an arc, adding a touch of charm to this plateau lake, but there is a fee, 120 yuan per person.

Family portrait (from left: myself, driver Tenzin, Cai Purong, Zhang Weiping, Sun Yan)



Due to inconvenient transportation, donating clothes and food to children in pastoral areas is also one of the highlights of this trip.


Dangqiongcuo:


Continue to start:


A few hours later, arrive at "Dangreyongcuo". Tangreyongcuo is the fourth largest lake in Tibet, with a water depth of 230 meters and the second deepest lake in my country. It is revered as the "Holy Lake" by the local Bon religion. It is surrounded by mountains on three sides, but there is a gap in Darguo Mountain on the south bank. Darguo Mountain is dark and covered with snow, resembling seven neatly arranged pyramids. kingdom. Looking at the whole lake, the water is incredibly blue, like a fairyland in the Jiuchongtian.


Wenbu South Village (North Bank of Dangre Yongcuo)


Stay at "Nima Golden Dragon Hotel"


September 28:

Today's itinerary: Wenbu South Village - Selincuo - Bangor (58 kilometers, 7 hours and 30 minutes)

Wenbunan Village in the early morning is full of tranquility and serenity. After departure, continue to have close contact with Dangre Yongcuo. After about 2 hours, we passed through the young Nima County. What greeted us at this time was the infinite barren beach and grassland on the northern Tibetan plateau. About another 3 hours, we came to the largest lake in Tibet - Selincuo.


Take a reflection:


welcome the rising sun


Another measure - Yigui measure


"Selincuo" has an altitude of 4530 meters and an area of ​​2391 square kilometers. It is the second largest saltwater lake in China after Qinghai Lake. The Tibetan language of Selincuo is "the devil's lake reflected by the majestic light". Except for the windless three-foot waves, the color of its lake water will change with the light, and the blue and green are different. It is the kind of blue that cannot be described in words. The water and the sky are the same color.

Go up to the observation deck (on the other side of the summit)


water and sky


Bangor County (Stay in Bangor Hotel)


September 29:

Today's itinerary: Bangor - Namtso North Shore Holy Elephant Tianmen - Dangxiong (320 kilometers, 7 hours)

The place to go today is the recently popular "Namtso Sacred Elephant Gate", which is located on the famous Chadorangka Island on the north shore of Namtso Lake, across the lake from Nyainqentanglha Mountain. Looking at the shore of Namtso Lake from the mountain, there are two arcs, and there is a huge stone in the arc, which looks like an elephant from a close view. Between the body and the trunk of the stone elephant, there is a huge door, known as the holy door leading to heaven, and it is a secret place hidden deep in the heart of old Tibet. It is necessary to make an appointment in advance to enter, and there will be an additional car toll.

Climb over "Pile Like Mountains" (5570 meters)


Come to "Bamtso":


Finally saw "Namtso"

Climbing to the top of Chaturanga Island (Moon Bay):

The Holy Elephant Heavenly Gate comes into view


Nyainqentanglha Mountain is majestic


Different "Namtso"


Come to the Holy Elephant Heavenly Gate:

fly the drone


Tianmen, we are here to commemorate


Crossing the Nalagan Pass (5190m)


Stay at "Minshan Kangma Hot Spring Hotel" in Dangxiong


September 30:

Today's itinerary: Dangxiong - Yangbajing - Kuoqiong Gangri Glacier - Lhasa (360 kilometers, 9 hours)

Today is the last day of this trip and we will return to Lhasa in the evening. Take the Qinghai-Tibet Expressway (Naqu-Lhasa) section to Yangbajing early in the morning, then turn up the provincial road to Shigatse, and see a towering snow mountain in the valley. The birthplace of Gangri Glacier. Langqionggangri Glacier, also known as Lhasa Valley No. 1 Glacier, has an average altitude of 5,500 meters. It is a natural park integrating glaciers and meadows, and it is also the nearest glacier (160 kilometers) to Lhasa.

farewell dangxiong


Qinghai-Tibet Highway


Trains on the Qinghai-Tibet Line


Yangpachen Geothermal


Entrance to Glacier Park


Ice Tongue and Melting Pool


falling glacier


ice lake


ice edge


park gate


Qiongmu Gangfeng Snow Mountain


Back to Minshan Silver Bridge Hotel


October 1:

Today is October 1st, and I will leave Tibet by plane in the evening. We chose to fly to Xining first, stay for one night, and then fly to Shanghai the next day, which is economical and effortless. Today, I will spend my time visiting the "Drepung Monastery" in Lhasa, which is far from the urban area. Drepung Monastery is the largest Tibetan temple in the past. It is located in a mountain depression, with a platform for sunning Buddha, and there are several Buddhist colleges alone. It can also overlook the city of Lhasa. I have been to all three temples.

In the afternoon, take a shuttle bus from the Civil Aviation Administration to Gongga Airport, 70 kilometers away, and arrive at Shanghai Hongqiao Airport at noon on the 2nd, ending the 17-day trip to Ali, Tibet.

first-class environment


It's a long way from the gate to the temple


Promenade


Buddhist language


Built on the hillside, the scale is grand


Sun Buddha Terrace


Into the maze


main hall


overlooking Lhasa


Exterior view of Gongga Airport


Fly from Xining to Shanghai in the morning (stopping in Xi'an)


postscript:

The trip totaled 4,300 kilometers (within Tibet), and it took 14 days (counting from joining the group), which gave me a lot of knowledge about Tibet and gave me a new impression of Tibet. The height of the sea and the distance of the distance also tested my mental strength over 70 years old, and I also had a judgment on myself. For this excursion, I only took a Sony a7 kit with one lens to go around the world. Many shots I wanted to shoot did not come true. The videos were also too scattered, and a lot of homework was not done in advance, so it was troublesome to write travel notes later. After more than ten days of hard work (the computer is not powerful), I am finally done. If there is any error in the content, please correct me.

(over)