The south of the colorful clouds is recognized as magical and beautiful. As my hometown, from its 6740-meter Kawagebo to the 77-meter Nanxi Estuary, from its most lively Dali Lijiang to the most remote Shaxi Yubeng, I am all the same. set foot. Only Bingzhongluo, which has been famous for a long time, has blocked my footsteps because of the rough and difficult roads, mudslides and road landslides. But the yearning for it in my heart is like a seed, which sprouts quietly, entangles in my heart like silk, and keeps cutting it and making it messy.
In December 2019, the highway from Liuku to Bingzhongluo was finally opened to traffic. This nearly 300-kilometer road has a beautiful name - Beautiful Highway. With the guidance of this road, Bingzhongluo gradually lifted the mysterious veil, revealing a beautiful face.
D1 Kunming - Liuku (545 kilometers, eight and a half hours)
D2 Liuku - Fugong (more than 130 kilometers, two and a half hours)
D3 Fugong--Bingzhongluo (more than 150 kilometers, three hours)
D4 Bingzhongluo (Wuli Village, Qiunatong)
D5 Bingzhongluo--Liuku
D6 Liuku - Kunming
Starting from Kunming, 545 kilometers, after eight and a half hours of driving, arrived at Liuku, the capital of Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture. Looking down at this land from a high altitude, you can see that among the high mountains here, there are three big rivers that never dry up running in parallel. They are the Jinsha River, Lancang River and Nujiang River in the Hengduan Mountains. Such a scene of three parallel rivers running in parallel without converging and converging is rare in the world. The three parallel rivers have been rated as a world natural heritage by UNESCO, and the Nu River, thanks to the efforts of non-governmental environmental protection organizations, the media and the government, has finally become a cultural heritage in China. The last big river that flows naturally, without the interception of hydropower stations, the Nu River, shows its unique natural beauty to the world.
The night in Liuku is sultry and quiet. It is a typical river valley climate. In the middle of March, the temperature has already reached 29 degrees Celsius. On the pedestrian street by the river, crowds of people in twos and threes are walking, and the Nu River flows quietly beside it, like a shy little girl, completely making people forget its roar and gallop in the rainy season.
Don't worry about the difficult conditions in Liuku. There are everything from Hilton to boutique hotels along the pedestrian street; hot pot, milk tea, barbecue and stir-fried vegetables are all available, just like any other city.
Riverside Pedestrian Street, bars and restaurants with European flavors
12 kilometers away from Liuku, the mountains are empty and the mist is light. Attracted by the morning light on the ridge, we stop to watch.
A row of red kapok trees on the side of the road, against the bright blue sky of Yunnan, is warm and hot. The fallen flowers meandered along the road and scattered all over the ground. Following the falling flowers and descending the stairs, I accidentally found several hot spring pools below. I went down to have a look out of curiosity, but unexpectedly came across the famous Bathhouse Club. The bathing party is a traditional festival of the Lisu people in Lushui. It has a certain scale in the second year of Yongli in the Ming Dynasty. It is an important form of preserving and continuing the traditional culture of the Lisu people. For more than 100 years, the Lisu people, in accordance with traditional customs, take a spring bath in Denggeng Town, Luzhang Town, Lushui County every year from the second day to the sixth day of the Spring Festival. In the shed, activities such as singing in antiphonal, shooting slaves, going up the mountain of knives, going down into the sea of fire, performances and material exchanges are carried out. Take a hot spring bath every morning and evening to eliminate the diseases and fatigue of the whole body, wash away the dust and dirt on the body in the past year, and welcome the coming of the new year with abundant physical strength and full spirit. There is no road sign for the bathing pond, so it is easy to miss it. Be sure to pay attention to the odometer. The fork on the right hand side is 12 kilometers away from Liuku, just go straight down. Bring your own swimsuit, bathing is free.
It's a pity, with such a beautiful scenery, so few people, and such clear water, it's a pity that I didn't bring a swimsuit, so I had to soak my feet. In my imagination, I was soaking in hot springs while grilling, watching the hot springs rippling up close, and the river rushing in the distance. In the gentle breeze, there were small white unknown flowers falling leisurely. Soaking and soaking, it became a flower bath.
Continue along the beautiful highway and see a mountain peak from a distance. I heard it is called the Great Man Mountain. It looks like a head of a great man lying on his back. It is reflected in the distant river. It looks really similar, especially the nose.
The famous tiger jump. A rock by the river looks like a tiger jumping over the boulder in the river to reach the opposite bank. Forgive me for not seeing it, but looking at the river and the boulder in the water from the viewing platform also has the taste of Tiger Leaping Gorge.
The beautiful road twists and turns and extends into the depths of the endless mountains. As the road turns, magnificent pictures appear continuously, showing the uniqueness and beauty of the Nu River.
Next to the roadside, there is a huge boulder called Feilaishi. At about 2:30 in the morning on March 19, 1983, there was a loud bang and a huge rock fell from the sky and landed in a small courtyard of the teachers' dormitory of Pihe Minority Middle School in Fugong County. In the corner of the eaves of the house in the north, a dozen teachers who were sleeping in the dormitory at that time were not injured. The next day, people searched the surrounding Biluo Snow Mountain and Gaoligong Mountain, but they couldn't find the origin of this huge stone. So there were various legends about this magical stone. Some people said it was a male stone. I missed the mother stone at the foot of the mountain, so I came to meet with the moon and the wind was high, and then I couldn't go back; some people said that this stone is a god-given stone for the school. In the future, the school will be prosperous and talented.
The divine stone seems to be a star in the sky, envious of the sound of reciting in the world;
Quietly fly to Liyuan, willing to accompany the cold lamp in the long night.
Leaving this magical stone, I finally came to Zhiziluo Village and Laomudeng Church that I was looking forward to. In the Lisu language, Zhiziluo means a good place. It is not an ordinary small mountain village. It used to be the seat of Nujiang Prefecture and Bijiang County. Later, with the continuous construction of roads, in 1974, the capital of Nujiang Prefecture was moved to the current Liuku. In the 1980s, geological experts believed that this place was a huge landslide, which would be buried by mudslides, and there was a danger of the city being destroyed, so Bijiang County was revoked. The famous Bijiang County has since disappeared, and Zhiziluo has also become an abandoned city. . From the right hand side of the beautiful road, you can see the crown mountain in the distance.
According to the navigation, I ran around in the village, knowing that the Old Muden Church was not far away, but it took me a long time to find it. Along the banks of the Nujiang Gorge, as long as there are villages, there are churches built by French missionaries in the past, and they are still in use today. The villages along the line are inhabited by different ethnic minorities such as Nu, Lisu, Bai, and Tibetan, but most of them have the same belief in Christianity. Standing on the viewing platform and looking at the mountains in the distance, I can't help but admire these missionaries. In the era when only caravans and ziplines were available along the Nujiang River, they risked their lives to come to these remote villages deep in the mountains alone. To preach, and to be successful, really makes me admire. The church is not open today. We circled around the church. It doesn't have any outstanding architecture and design. To say it is unique, it may have more to do with the place where it is located. Go around to the opposite side of the church and enjoy the best view of the church with the Coronet Peak as the background and the reflection in the water across the fish pond.
The viewing platform is good, with a first-class view, and there are pea flour, soy milk and a local specialty called lacquer oil for sale next to it. The appearance of lacquer oil looks similar to Shangri-La Tibetan ghee. According to local people, it is made from the oil of lacquer tree and is the main ingredient of the local delicacy lacquer oil chicken.
Overlooking Coronet Peak
The winding mountain roads in the distance are a microcosm of the roads in the province in the earliest period of Yunnan, so many old drivers said that after driving the roads in Yunnan, there are no problems anywhere in the country.
Today, I drove about 130 kilometers, stopped and went, and played all the way. It took almost a whole day to reach Fugong. In the plan, we had to stay in Fugong for one night when we entered and exited Bingzhongluo, but we did not expect Fugong The city is building roads. Except for a small area by the river that is a new poverty alleviation community built by the country, which is relatively clean, the whole Fugong is dusty, traffic jams and messy. I am completely disappointed in it. Recently, In 2019, try not to stay in Fugong, and don’t go in when passing by. The overall feeling is really bad.
Starting from Liuku, you can visit various scenic spots on the road for a while, or stay for one or two scenic spots when you go back, and try to stay in Gongshan. Although Gongshan is not big, it is refreshing and quiet, and you can live there. However, Gongshan is only more than 40 kilometers away from Bingzhongluo. If you can drive to Bingzhongluo in an hour, you will definitely not stay in Gongshan.
Gongshan, which is backed by mountains and facing water, has good Fengshui and beautiful scenery.
Reluctantly stayed for one night, today there are still more than 150 kilometers to reach Bingzhongluo. The main attractions along the way are Stone Moon and Jiangzhong Pine. But I think, apart from these named scenic spots, the scenery along the way is actually too beautiful to behold. As long as you stop the car, the Nujiang Grand Canyon will not disappoint you, and will definitely reward you with beautiful landscape paintings.
Not far from Fugong is the viewing platform of Stone Moon. The road to the viewing platform is bumpy and bumpy, and we even wanted to give up at one point. Later, we saw a car from other places stubbornly going up, so we thought about it and followed suit. Stone Moon is located at the top of a very high mountain. If you want to climb up to get close to it, you need to climb the mountain for a whole day. We don't have the physical strength, so it's good to see it from a distance.
On the top of Gaoligong Mountain at an altitude of 3,300 meters in the distance, there is a huge perforated hole formed by the dissolution of marble. The hole is 100 meters deep, 40 meters wide, and 60 meters high. On a clear day, you can see the other side of the mountain through the stone hole The blue sky and white clouds are very interesting.
Below the Stone Moon viewing platform, we encountered a caravan. Yes, even today in 2020, there are still caravans in Yunnan, and they have traveled along the ancient tea-horse road countless times for generations, delivering supplies to the villages along the way.
There is no parking place near Jiangzhongsong, so you need to park far away and watch from a distance. I saw a slender pine tree growing on a pyramid-shaped rock in the middle of the river. If you don’t look carefully, it is easy to be ignored. I am a little disappointed. After all, it is such an attractive name, but when I finished taking pictures The moment I turned around, the scenery behind me made me feel that this car was worth parking. Huge snow-capped mountains appear at the end of the Nujiang River. The cover of clouds and mist adds a touch of mystery to the snow-capped mountains. Against the background of the green river, this is the scenery I was looking forward to.
As the distance from Bingzhongluo gets closer, the scenery on both sides of the Nujiang River becomes more and more beautiful. I encountered countless suspension bridges on the road, each of which was fascinating; when I encountered a pool of deep or shallow river water, I stayed for them; when I encountered scattered waterfalls, we also explored After all, there are endless dangerous shoals and boulders, which leave us with one photo after another worth cherishing.
Until, we came to the first bay of the Nujiang River, a place I have seen countless times in pictures.
The pear and peach blossoms in the village do not know whether they have bloomed or not, which makes the whole village look a bit monotonous. If it is in full bloom, how beautiful it would be.
Not far from the first bay of the Nujiang River is the observation deck of Bingzhongluo, where you can see the panorama of Bingzhongluo Town and the Taohua Village below. At first glance, Taohua Village is similar to the first bay of the Nujiang River. If you have never been there, you may confuse the two places. But if you look carefully, you will find that there is a bridge connecting Taohua Village to the outside world. The existence of this bridge is Taohua Village and Taohua Village. The most essential difference is the first bay of the Nujiang River.
Look carefully, there are two ziplines next to it
The accommodation conditions in the town are average, there are no big hotels, but small inns and boutique hotels are also good, clean and tidy, with air conditioning and electric blankets. I heard from friends that when they came here, they lived in Qiunatong. At night, the wooden house was ventilated from all sides. They slept in sleeping bags and had to bury their heads deeply in the quilt to resist the cold wind at night.
Seeing that it was still early, we asked the little girl at the front desk, and she recommended us to go around the nearby Gongdang Mountain. Looking at the navigation, it was only a few kilometers, and I had time to come back for dinner.
Go down the fork next to the viewing platform. This road is the same as going to Wuli Village and Qiuna Tong. There is a narrow village road on the left hand side, which turns left and right. I suspected that I could not pass it several times, but the navigation display should be correct, so we insisted on driving out of the village. As soon as you leave the village, your eyes suddenly open up. In the distance, there are snow-capped mountains, villages, golden-roofed temples, and houses shaded by rape blossoms and peach blossoms. Finally, you can feel the aura of a sacred mountain.
Gongdang Mountain, one of the top ten sacred mountains in Bingzhong Luo, means a white lion, because the shape of the mountain resembles a lion, and the rocks are all milky white suet jade marble, so it got its name. You can take a car up the mountain to see the scenery. The mountain is full of flowers and beautiful scenery. You can see Shuangxiang Peak, Fairy Peak, and Fairy Cave.
The village is very quiet, hardly anyone can be seen. The temple is being repaired, and you can't get in. You can only appreciate its grandeur from outside the wall.
All kinds of peach blossoms, pear blossoms, and rapeseed flowers are blooming in the fields and among the houses, making even the humble huts feel like picturesque and fairyland.
The cold temperature reminds us that it is getting dark, and the countryside is good, but it is time to go back.
At night, thinking about seeing Qiu Natong whom I have read for a long time, I was faintly excited, but also a little worried about the rain. I opened the curtains and looked a few times. The night was dark, with no stars and no rain. Until the early morning twilight, I opened the curtains again, and was surprised by the large clouds and mist between the mountains and valleys opposite. They were like huge quilts, indeed, huge, one by one, like cotton in the kingdom of adults, floating lightly on the In mid-air, the mountain peaks were wrapped in groups. In order to see Peach Blossom Island and Wuli Village among the clouds, I washed up in a hurry and wanted to drive there before I had breakfast. , I can’t see the road clearly, even the road is gone.
Obediently go back to eat breakfast, and then set off for Wuli Village in the drizzle.
Encountering Shimen Pass on the road, the lingering clouds and rain-soaked mountain peaks are like a Chinese ink painting, using the earth and sky as the drawing paper, splashing vividly.
Shimen Pass is a cliff like a door, with Biluo Snow Mountain on the left and Gaoligong Mountain on the right. It is the only way to pass between the north of the Nujiang River and the ancient tea-horse road in Tibet. Majestic.
Is it a bit of the charm of Guilin landscape?
Not far from Shimenguan is Wuli Village. Wuli Village is a quiet and beautiful small village on the Ancient Tea-Horse Road. On the way to Qiunatong, it is about 10 kilometers away from Bingzhongluo Town. The National Ethnic Affairs Commission named it "Chinese Minority Characteristic Village". Every morning, the village will be wrapped in mist, looking across the river from a distance, it looks like a dream, hence the name Wuli Village.
To enter Wuli Village, no matter which side you come from, you must cross a bridge. We passed the bridge, and we can see three bridges in different historical periods: the modern cement bridge connecting the two banks to Qiunatong and Tibet, the iron chain bridge for the villagers of Wuli Village, and the wooden bridge used by the villagers before. The bridge has been damaged, and it is only kept as a reference and souvenir for the latecomers. If there is another zip line, then all the tools for crossing the Nu River in history will be complete.
The dilapidated old bridge has a mottled sense of history. I actually like it the most.
After crossing the bridge, there are not many ancient tea-horse roads left in Yunnan. Along the rocks, man-made excavations have been made one by one, and horses have been stamped one by one. Over the years, such ancient tea-horse roads have been formed, telling the story It is the barrier of Yunnan mountains in ancient times.
Green tiles and earthen walls, powder and daisy flowers, grass growing and warblers flying, horses scattered, it looks like a paradise. Anyone can wander around the village leisurely, and no one will disturb them, except for the dogs running around.
When I was about to leave the village, I encountered a large field of enchanting pea flowers, which added a touch of gorgeous color to the quiet village.
The morning dew still lingers on the peas
Walking across the chain bridge at the other end and looking back at Wuli Village is another kind of beauty.
Going on for a few kilometers, you will arrive at Qiunatong, which is known as the most beautiful in Bingzhongluo. The village is located in a deep mountain, and there is a concrete road connected to the outside world. The road surface is flat, but there are many bends and steep slopes, making it difficult to drive. In some places, some soil is scattered on the road due to rain, so novice drivers should be careful.
Qiunatong, a township under the jurisdiction of Bingzhongluo, is known as China's "Little Switzerland". Today's light rain, cool air, and floating clouds make Qiu Natong seem like a fairyland on earth.
This place is much bigger than Wuli Village. Qiu Natong has 10 villager groups under his jurisdiction. After parking the car in the first village, we walked slowly along the cement road to the innermost village. Of course, you can also drive, but the road is really narrow, and the road is slippery in rainy days, so we decided to abandon the car and walk, and walking, we can better appreciate the scenery along the way.
On the mountain on the back of the opposite village, there are clumps of wild flowers blooming, looming in the clouds and mist.
On the top of the mountain in the distance, there is snow, and the pine trees are covered with frost flowers. There should be rime.
I walked about 10 kilometers back and forth. Although I was tired, I felt that the long-cherished wish of many years had been fulfilled, and the tiredness was worth it.
On the last day in Bingzhongluo, this morning, taking advantage of the clouds and fog, we set off early to see Bingzhongluo, Taohua Village and the first bay of Nujiang in the fog. Sure enough, the cloudy Bingzhongluo is the real Bingzhongluo. That kind of hazy, vaguely unreal scene is the fairyland on earth in our mind.
The return journey is nearly 300 kilometers, and we have to rush to Liuku at night. Although we have seen the scenery on the road, but different weather, different angles, and different moods, we will see different scenery.
meet jesus light
Stay in Liuku for one night, and the next day is a whole day's drive. On the way, you can stop by Tiansheng Bridge in Midu to eat rolled hooves, or go to the small town of Yunnanyi to buy some local specialties and fresh food. Vegetables and fruits, back to the warm home in Kunming in the afternoon.