Break through the sense of boundaries, go all the way to Guizhou, and sing happily among the Miaoshan and Dong villages

The frosted glass of memory gradually wiped away the dust, and I saw the past,
When I was a child, the word "boundary sense" was foreign to me,
Because before junior high school, I have been enjoying the warm era of "old residential buildings" in the last century,
As long as there are people around, the door will not be closed. My dad didn’t come back from overtime, so I would visit here and there.
The human touch can be as strong as honey!
Especially during the Chinese New Year, people in the whole street will gather together to have a garden party, and the atmosphere is lively! Greetings and congratulations, smiling faces and hugs, people are full of warmth and cohesion, and there is no sense of boundaries.
I don’t know when it started. The word “neighbor” only has the attribute of location. There are still polite words in the elevator, but once the neighbors from all over the world speak with different accents close the door, it is difficult to have an intersection.

Like a virus, this sense of boundary is also spreading in society, accompanied by various complications,
Business people have become intrigues, ordinary people have become workplace turmoil, and only retired old people retain the right to chat with their parents after dinner.

I hate the sense of boundaries, it tears the society apart, alienates the connection between people, I don’t want to break through it all the time, so I chose a car that breaks through the traditional boundaries, the Haval Big Dog with 3/4 scale, it breaks through It breaks the boundary between SUV and off-road vehicle, it breaks through the boundary of life and travel, it breaks through the boundary of responsibility and dream, I know it can also take me to break through the boundary of city, break through the boundary of geography, all the way to Guizhou, to that hospitality Qiandongnan's Qiandongnan brought back the era without a sense of boundaries, and revisited those humanistic cares that were so warm that people were restless.

about this trip

Qiandongnan is the kind of place that makes people feel "Oh my god, there are so many mountain roads, but everything is amazing". It is said that people who have been there have only two reactions, or they are motion sick to the point of vomiting bile, and they don't want to set foot in this life; Either love to death, go again and again;

And I am the latter!

Perhaps it is the mountains of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau that block the indifferent wind from the developed cities. The Miao and Dong villages in southeastern Guizhou still retain the living conditions of the last century. The Miao people live by the mountains, and the Dong villages live by the water. The Miao villages are proud, while the Dong villages by the water are tender. They don’t have the sense of boundaries that urban residents have. When people come to the village, they are friends. The rice wine is arranged and you can sing loudly. You just need to open your mouth to drink and stand upright. Listen to the music with your ears...

listen! ! !
The singing of the Miao people needs to be fermented with rice wine, and it is roared under the measurement of the horns.
The songs of the Dong nationality, relying on the moonlight to testify, are chanted in the accompaniment of the cicadas.
The people on this land live happily and understand:
Laugh when you want to laugh, cry when you want to cry;
If you are willing to be drunk, you will be drunk, and if you can sing, you will sing.
Even if the tone is not complete, even if the rhythm is scattered. If you don't sing, life will be itchy, listen to others sing, sing for others, and sing for yourself.
Perhaps, singing is the only valuable carrier of life; perhaps, singing is the most just and honest career in life.
Only by singing non-stop can the restrained sense of boundaries be resolved.
Thus, all life has been rhythmized;
All life is composed into a brilliant melody;
All souls resonate into sounds of nature.

Therefore, in this country of Dong songs and Miao dances, there are too many places worth pursuing and too many villages worth visiting, but if you want to perceive their spiritual core, you must not miss several experiences in the trip to Southeast Guizhou. Feel the architectural beauty of mountain tribes in Hu Miao Village, listen to the narrative long poems and ancient songs of the Miao people in Langde Shang Village in Leishan, watch the reed dance of the tribe with guns in Basha Miao Village in Congjiang, and listen to the reed dance in Xiaohuang Dong Village in Congjiang The songs of the Dong nationality that can soothe the soul, experience the intangible cultural heritage handicrafts of Miao Township in Kara Village, Danzhai...
If you are determined to go to Qiandongnan, you must find the best time, and the most lively time of the year is the Miao Nian in November. This is the most important festival in Qiandongnan. In 3 days, the cottage The streets and alleys in the city have become a carnival resort for tens of thousands of people. Food, dance, cockfights, and bullfights, this is a celebration for the New Year, but it is also a hysterical carnival that breaks the sense of boundaries.

From the Tibetan and Qiang Cultural Corridor in Western Sichuan to the Miao and Dong Villages on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau

It took 12 days to drive a Haval dog to explore ten secret places in the Tibetan and Qiang Cultural Corridor in Gannan, western Sichuan, from Kangding to Tagong, to Bamei, to Danba, to Mosca, to Yaqing Temple, and to Seda , to Aba, to Langmusi, to Ganga Grassland, to Zhayana, a very enjoyable road adventure.

After returning to Chengdu to rest for a week, the heart that was always longing to be on the road became agitated again. The motherland is so big and beautiful, and our journey of exploring national culture is far from over. I couldn’t sit still at home, so I dialed again After getting a call from Ken, the two of them searched for the route they were interested in on the map.
There are only two "Asian cultural heritage" travel destinations selected by UNESCO in Asia. One is the Sichuan-Tibet region we just visited, and the other is Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, which is not far from us. Since The United Nations has pointed out the direction for us, so we don’t have to worry about it anymore. Anyway, there are big dogs around, and we don’t have to worry about the rough mountain roads in Guizhou. Let’s pack our bags and go!

Old friends reunited, gave each other a warm look, took a handsome photo when they set off, and bought a bunch of snacks for the children. The rest is full of expectations for Miao Village and Dong Township.

The last trip to western Sichuan was the first time to travel with a Haval dog. In 12 days, 3,800 kilometers, I experienced beautiful scenery, landslides, mudslides, and snowstorms, and drove through mountain roads, muddy roads, and washboards. On the road, using the four driving modes of Big Dog to solve them one by one, full of our good memories and returning smoothly, at this moment, Big Dog has become my most trusted life partner, I want it to take me to more A more beautiful distance.

This time in Southeast Guizhou, a total of 7 Miao villages were visited, namely Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village, Jidao Miao Village, Langde Shang Village, Danzhai Kara Village, Paiyue Village, Paimo Village, Basha Miao Village; There are 4 villages, namely Huanggang Dong Village, Xiaohuang Dong Village, Zhaoxing Dong Village, and Tang’an Dong Village. In addition to harvesting scenery and photos throughout the trip to Southeast Guizhou, what is more precious is those original and simple smiles and hospitality. Attitude, the mountain cuts off their connection with the outside world, but retains their simplicity and the state of life without a sense of boundary between people.

No need to envy the legendary cultural destinations abroad, what you want can be found in Qiandongnan.

Only after crossing thirty-three mountains can we go to Qiandongnan

Located at the junction of the Eurasian plate and the Indian Ocean plate, the orogenic movement a million years ago made Guizhou the only province without plains in the country. In the past, agricultural production was backward, and industry was impossible to talk about. From Guiyang to Southeast Guizhou , It takes eighteen hours to climb over thirty-three mountains.
Today, the country's poverty alleviation policy has brought about the rapid development of Guizhou's infrastructure. Although there is now a highway from Guiyang to Kaili, but with the big dog, I am more like the French traveler Michelin Like that, break through the obstacles of layers of mountains, step by step to approach the paradise in your heart, and see what kind of mountains make the warm and cheerful characters of Qiandongnan people.

There are really many mountains in Guizhou. As soon as you get out of Guiyang, you will see the boundless mountains ahead. It seems that you will never finish walking. Turn on the sports mode of the big dog and enjoy the fun of manipulating in the S-curves one after another. The roar of the motor in the valley, it is said that the land in Guizhou is not three feet flat, and the sky is not sunny for three days. We gave us such a good weather as soon as we set off. Open the skylight, let the wind from the forest blow in, and let me go in the sound of music. Break through geographical boundaries.

In places like the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, the weather in early winter changes quickly. It is cold in the morning and evening, and hot at noon. Some of the comfort settings of the Big Dog can come in handy here. The air conditioners are all independent. Both the main driver and the co-driver can adjust the temperature separately. I am afraid of heat, and Ken is afraid of cold, so that everyone can get what they need. When the cold car starts in the morning, the buttocks will suffer more. With seat heating, it is much more comfortable. After all, travel is not For practice, the comfort configuration of a car is still very important, which can greatly improve the travel experience. In this regard, Haval has always done a good job.

After climbing countless hills, I finally came to the first alpine meadow, 40 kilometers away from Kunming City, called Gaopo Yunding, 1,800 meters above sea level. This is a famous wind power center in Guizhou. There are 152 windmills on the top of the mountain. The photo looks small. , In fact, it is estimated to be 20 stories high, and it is estimated that 10 adults will need to hug the bottom of the tower.

Below the windmill is a large area of ​​rice fields, which is very spectacular. Whether you come to the high slope in spring, summer, or autumn, the scenery of rice fields and windmills will give you a majestic shock.

When we arrived at Gaopo Yunding, it was not far from the sunset time. We planned to camp on the top of the mountain tonight. Since we didn’t plan to continue walking, we slowed down and waited for the sunset. Gou listened to the music on the superb stereo, and began to think about the stories that he would meet in Miao Village, hoping that the people there would be the same as before, and always maintain the life style without a sense of boundaries.

It is said on the Internet that people who drive a Big Dog will never grow old, because its owners are heroes who are brave enough to explore unknown stories. Adventurous love is a trend. In order to match this trend, the interior of the Big Dog is also full of With the taste from the wilderness, the central intelligent large screen embedded in the lake screen first catches the eye, the Stonehenge matrix style air outlet is also shining on the stage, the luxurious knob-style shifting of the Galaxy ring enhances the temperament, and the wild big handle of the jungle arm , the atmosphere in the car is more off-road, and the driving desire is ready to come out.
Exquisite interior with large space, 2738mm super large wheelbase makes family and friends no longer cramped. In addition, Haval Dog also provides 37 storage spaces, which are simply tailored for photographers like us. The lens, The fuselage, car charger, and drone can be used at any time, so you don’t miss every wonderful moment.
Although it is an SUV designed for young people, it does not feel cheap at all. The sincerity of Big Dog is to make us smile with satisfaction every time we drive it.

Different from most places in Guizhou, Gaopo Yunding has a very unique climate. The north-south mountains form a grassland-like open area in Yunding, which is relatively separated from the surrounding mountains, forming an independent and unique landscape. On the alpine platform Yunding Grassland, when you are in it, you can see the endless mountains and seas around you, which has the artistic conception of "being at the top of the mountain and seeing all the small mountains at a glance".

In addition to the exquisite interior, I also like the appearance of the big dog. When I have nothing to do, I like to take photos with it, and I like to take photos with it, and then send it to the circle of friends to envy a group of friends. To be honest, the big dog has been from launch to It is only two months now, but it has already become the Dream Car of countless young people.

I admire its front face the most. The combination of the full LED intelligent headlights of the eyes of the earth and the Olympus layered air intake grille fully highlights the power of the big dog, and also makes the Haval big dog driving on the road. It looks more mighty and domineering. I received likes in the circle of friends, and in reality, it has earned a lot of return rate from passers-by.

Our campsite tonight has an excellent viewing effect. In fact, this Gaopo Yunding is not far from Guiyang, but there is no expressway, but the 2-hour driving time is also very worthwhile for Guiyang people to take a vacation on weekends. Yunding There are also many Miao compatriots living in the village, and the village can also provide board and lodging.

The sunset tonight is beautiful. I hope that such good weather will accompany us all the way. After all, we have experienced too much wind and snow in western Sichuan, and it is time for good luck to come to us.

The reeds are swaying in the breeze, and the big orange dog looks more three-dimensional under the brilliance of the sunset. The retro design has very hard lines, plus a rough-looking rectangular air intake grille and the front surround of the silver fender, off-road The temperament is fully revealed. This is a car for our young people to express their attitude. We not only need to commute to work in a regular manner, but also need a big dog to carry our distance and dreams.

The wind on the top of the mountain blew a song into my mind, "I want to have a chat with you, to have a chat with you...". Yes, I want the big dog to take me to the three mountains and five mountains, take me to all corners of the country, to go to more and farther places to chase the wind, to chase the lifestyle of my dreams.

It is the somersault cloud that leads me away from the boring reality to the ideal world to be an idealistic person, Big Dog, you satisfy all my imagination for an SUV, but what is more valuable is that I can afford you, can Let the years of struggle before can realize the beauty of life.

Through the car window, I glanced back at my "new friend" who I had known for less than a month, and showed a somewhat smug smile. I knew that this kind of scene would repeat itself, and this kind of happiness would last for a long time.
When you choose your own Dream Car and drive it to see the scenery you want to see, you will be like me, unable to control your smile, unable to control your desire to take a photo with it, because you are proud of your own Choose to be proud and content.

The stars are very good tonight, the sky is like a giant-screen movie with a sci-fi movie, sitting on the top of the mountain, watching the scenery with the big dog and friends.
Life always needs some intermittent good times to warm the heart, and the big dog is my time machine.

Lang De went to the village, the twelve bar wines that cannot be denied

When the reeds and sheng firecrackers exploded, the singing had already filled the boiling Miao Village.

Singing started at the roadblock, and the girls came out in their best costumes, their horns filled with clear rice wine, and they held them to the mouths of the guests;
The long bamboo horn blows, bringing the call of the ancestors.
The men in blue long gowns blew various bamboo music and played bronze drums, and the girls covered with silver ornaments held up horns and wine bowls and danced hand-waving.
There is joy among people, and the air is filled with intoxicating fragrance. All the barriers and sense of boundaries have disappeared at this moment.
Let's sing together, forget the troubles of life, dance together, let us enjoy the short happy time together!

Early the next morning, I came down from Yunding on the high slope, and drove the big dog along the rugged mountain road in Guizhou, the valley with twists and turns, the virgin forest with tall trees and dense forests... I am lamenting the uncanny workmanship of nature. We have created such a stunning beauty. At the same time, Qiandongnan, Guizhou, a piece of pure land hidden in the mountains far away from the hustle and bustle of the city, has also become a good place for me and the big dog to flex our muscles. The excellent control and abundant power allow difficult Driving on mountain roads has become a pleasure.
Especially in terms of power, the 1.5GDIT EVO engine equipped with Big Dog has once won the "Top Ten Engines in the World", with a maximum power of 124 kilowatts and a maximum torque of 285N m. The maximum torque output can be achieved at 1400 rpm. The 1.5T Haval Dog is also relaxed on the Panshan Road with a huge drop in the itinerary in Guizhou.
It can be said that Big Dog perfectly balances the practicality of SUV and off-road functionality, and at the same time meets the dual needs of city and travel. As an SUV specially designed for our young people, Big Dog has delivered a job that satisfies the Chinese people. answer sheet.

There is even a surprise to complete the additional questions on this answer sheet, because the roads in Qiandongnan are generally too old, there are many potholes on the road, and stones will fall on the hillside when it is windy and rainy, while Haval The transparent chassis function of the big dog leapfrogs, through the camera at the bottom of the car, the image of the road conditions under the car is transmitted to the large screen in the car. The puddles and stones under the car can be seen at a glance, and the driver can avoid them in time through observation. There is a lot less heartache for the big dog to scratch his belly.

The first village that arrived in southeast Guizhou was called Langde Shangzhai. As I remembered, this village was still made of wooden walls and green tiles, with corn cobs and red peppers. The stone steps stretched into invisible houses.
The dog on the road is very lazy. It seems that he is used to seeing guests from afar, and has despised those novelty gazes. It has become deeper and as wise as the quiet village.

No one was seen at the entrance of the newly built village, driving a big dog, crossing the Wind and Rain Bridge across the river, and arriving at the main entrance of the old village, a grand welcome ceremony was brewing in the calm.

Langde Shangzhai is 17 kilometers away from the north of Leishan County, surrounded by green mountains and clear water. It is one of the earliest Miao villages in the state that opened to the outside world. There are three gates in Shangzhai. The wooden buildings with green tiles and stilted feet are densely built on the slope near the foot of the mountain. The wooden buildings are built with roofs hanging from the top of the mountain. Most of the wooden buildings were built in the Qing Dynasty (1616-1911).

You can see enough of the panorama from the outside, but it is not so easy to enter Langde Shangzhai. It is not because the tickets are expensive, but because you have to drink twelve roadblocks before entering the village.

I saw the introduction in the documentary before: the Miao family is warm and hospitable. Whenever relatives and friends from afar visit, the Miao men and women will go to the entrance of the village, set up cards and line up to welcome them. , The horns are used as cups, and the road is blocked to persuade people to drink. At least one to three cards are set up, and as many as twelve cards. Such hospitality is rare in the world.

Today I finally saw that although there were only a few tourists, all the men, women and children in Miao Village were all dressed up to welcome them. The brewed "road-blocking wine" welcomes guests into the village in this special way.

It is said that according to the rules of the Miao nationality, the road-blocking wine must be drunk at least three times, and at most twelve. However, with the development of Miao villages in recent years, the rules of thousands of Miao villages have also begun to change. I don't want to drink and I don't force it. But such enthusiasm, such a style of handling things that never treat customers as outsiders is still very moving. This is the state of life that has no sense of boundaries that I want to find. Stay in the village.

I actually observed that from Zhaijiao Highway to Zhaitou’s Zhaimen gate, there are really 12 wine cards, and a square table is placed in the middle of the road, with several Miao girls in costumes standing on both sides. Carrying pots and cups, toasting guests, each serving two earthen bowls, means good fortune and longevity.

Those who want to drink all the way into the village must be "massive". But guests who are not good at drinking don’t have to worry, as long as you put your hands behind your back, bend over and touch the wine glass with your lips to leave, and politely say "Doushemo" ("Thank you" in Miao language), you can "pass". up.
Although the owner is hospitable, he will never force others.

This is the first Miao village we arrived at. I actually drank the twelve roadblock wines seriously, and it was not as good as I imagined. The rice wine of the Miao nationality is still mostly sweet from glutinous rice, and the alcohol is less spicy. My emotions adjusted to a more excited height, and I carefully looked at Lang De going to the village.

The brown wooden house does not require special color decoration. Walking in it, you can breathe the aroma of soil, green grass and flowers. Although there is a little smell of poultry manure in the middle, it is not annoying. This is the real taste of the countryside.

There are also wooden buildings on stilts that are worth savoring in the village, most of which are typical three-story structures, with pigs and cattle raised on the first floor, people living on the second floor, and grain and sundries piled up on the third floor.

The most eye-catching, of course, is the Lusheng Hall in the center of the village. On the ground, stone strips are used to pave a pattern similar to the 12 rays of light on a bronze drum, which is very beautiful.

The original Twelve Ways of Road Wine has been very moving, but unexpectedly, there will be an even more surprising gift package in the back, and a performance of the Miao original ecology will be staged at the Lusheng Field.

This performance has already used almost all the old and young people in the village. Toasting songs, Miao flying songs, reed dances, bench dances, and golden pheasant dances. While watching me, I envy their singing and dancing life. It is not a program specially arranged for tourists. It is the scene presentation of their living conditions.

When waiting for the performance, everyone was not idle. There is no backstage here, and all the actors' movements in the background can be seen in a panoramic view. The mothers take care of the children, and the grandmother chatters and embroiders.

The dances performed by Langde Shangzhai can’t be said to be very professional. They are the Lusheng Dance and Golden Pheasant Dance they dance every day, and some are bench dances that are a mix of the two dances. The performers are girls and young wives from the village. , They have danced to the reeds and bronze drums since they were young, so they don’t need any director to arrange. They often just put together a few people and then perform with the music. So when watching their performances, some gestures and movements are a little bit Don't worry about differences and inconsistencies, the enthusiastic and serious attitude is enough to impress people.

The costumes of the Miao people in the village are characterized by long skirts, so they are also called "long skirt seedlings". The colors are very bright. In Leishan County, most of them are long skirt seedlings.

In Langde Shangzhai, the most cultural heritage is the Miao ancient songs, which have now been listed as national intangible cultural heritage. In ancient times, the Miao people suffered from wars. In order to avoid the wars, they migrated many times. Because they were worried that all kinds of information would be obliterated by history, the wise ancestors of the Miao people hid their history deeply in the elegant, ethereal and forceful pathos. Among the ancient songs, they remain in the memory of the nation.

There are many festivals of the Miao people. According to incomplete statistics, there are more than 500 festivals of the Miao people in Leishan County alone. Every festival, the Miao people must gather and sing ancient songs during the gathering, which is also a commemoration of history and ancestors.

The ancient songs of the Miao nationality have a five-character structure and are very rhyming. Although I don’t understand the Miao language, sitting in the square, there are magnificent and sacred singing sounds all around. rap.

The old people in the village will not think that they are old, so they will slack off their clothes, and they will wear their most beautiful clothes when they sing.

The performance lasted about half an hour. Although there was no professional stage arrangement, no lighting and no sound, it was the original ecological presentation that moved people the most. This is why I like Langde Shangzhai so much.

In the evening, I chatted with the owner of the inn and asked them how much money they could earn once they danced like this every day. 120 yuan, maybe we in the utilitarian world can’t understand why they don’t earn more than that a day when they go out to work, why they still stay in the cottage, dress up every day, and perform hard for a few tourists. The boss told me: "This is the culture and tradition of the Miao family, but it has been lost in many villages. We Langde people don't just dance for money. This is our daily life. We are very proud to pass on this tradition. , and thank you for coming, all guests come from afar, no matter how many people there are, we will present the best side to you.”

If you also come to Qiandongnan, please don’t miss Langde Shangzhai, you will be like me, drink twelve bars of wine, and be moved by the most enthusiastic song and dance of the Miao family.

Jidao Miao Village, "eating and drinking" at the full moon banquet

Due to the gathering of many ethnic groups, the original ecology of Qiandongnan has accumulated splendid culture in the long river of history, and many traditional villages have also been formed.
There are a large number of ancient villages, some of which have become famous all over the world, but most of them are still flowing quietly in the mountains.
They are dynamic social organisms that inherit culture and perform functions.
At the foot of the Qingshan Mountains and on the banks of the Bala River, Jidao Miao Village in Sankeshu Town, Kaili City lies in the countryside, peaceful and leisurely, exuding a faint brilliance.

Leaving Langde Shangzhai early the next morning, I drove a big dog along the country road along the Bala River eastward. I didn’t plan a destination, so I just went in and wandered around seeing which Miao village was pleasing to the eye. This is the joy of discovery, and what you feel is the most original experience.

Just walking like this, we arrived at Jidao Miao Village. Looking from a distance, a large area of ​​Miaojia wooden buildings are either at the foot of the mountain, or near the water, or hidden in the forest, which are completely natural and authentic to the natural ecology. It presents a simple and primitive style.

Jidao village is bounded by bridges, and its upstream and downstream are divided into upper and lower Jidao villages. Cross the bridge and drive up the Bala River for 2 minutes to enter the entrance of the village. A flat road covered with gravel slabs extends to the depths of the village. The stone trails under the wheels are made from the winding Baba Lahe, with different sizes and shapes, has a history of hundreds of years.

After parking the car and walking into the village along the ancient road, there was a sudden commotion from the Lusheng field. A group of Miao girls were carrying glutinous rice, pork legs, chickens and ducks, red eggs, rice flower fish, candies and sweet rice wine to celebrate. Chatting happily, it looks like there is some activity. After asking an uncle, I found out that it was the child's full moon, and the newlyweds went back to their natal home for a drink. This is a very important celebration in the Miao family, so the reeds fluttered along the way, and the clansmen saw them off, and the scene was grand.

After chatting with the owner, I found out that "full moon home wine" is the second most important event in Miao village after the wedding. The in-laws will prepare quite a lot of gifts for the bride and groom to take back to their natal home. Today is the groom of Nanhua Miao Village, 15 kilometers away. The bride who married Jidao Miao Village, the child came back to thank her family after the full moon.

There are various types of gifts, from daily necessities to various foods, and even a big fat pig. The owner saw us taking pictures and knew that we were tourists from afar, so he warmly invited us to his house for a wedding banquet. This is what moved us the most about the Miao family. They are always enthusiastic, and even if they meet for the first time, they will give strangers the highest courtesy. From Lang De to Ji Dao, this is the life I pursue without a sense of boundaries.

A big fat pig that has been tidied up will be the main dish for today's lunch. There are more than 20 jars of rice wine. It seems that we can experience the most authentic Miao cuisine at noon today.

Following the gift-giving team from the mother-in-law's family all the way to the bride's house, the bride's house is ready for the reception ceremony at the door.

A dozen buckle bowls are placed on a square table. Inside the bowls are peanuts, rice wine and money. Guests can choose one and get what they choose. The rice wine they choose must be drunk before entering the room.

Like this elder sister, I was lucky enough to choose peanuts, which means many children and many blessings. Ken picked a dollar, which means great wealth.

The two elder sisters chose the wine bowl, implying that life is booming, and of course they have to drink it all in one gulp

Far away, the smell of stewed meat floated in the air. For those of us who have been running mountain roads to eat dry food these days, this smell is even more tempting. Going in to see what happened, it turned out that the owner’s house had already started stewing soup. After a while, the broth and meat would become the bottom of the hot pot. Lunch was Miao’s hot pot. Sometimes I really felt that fate would favor the hardworking bees. We are not afraid of hard work with a big dog, and there will always be lucky things in return for us.

In fact, in this new era of worry-free food and clothing, the Miao family has also lived a happy life. A free lunch is not worth much, but the friendship in it is priceless. Leave it to me and Aken, two outsiders. The most beautiful thing in travel is not the simple scenery, but the enthusiasm and simplicity of the local people.

When it was time to eat, we were invited to sit down in the main house, and the aunts and aunts chatted in Miao language. Although they couldn't understand them, they were infected by the warm and festive atmosphere.

The pork hot pot for lunch is very satisfying, the pork skin is stewed soft and chewy! Pork is rich in gravy, and the full meat is particularly satisfying in the mouth. There is a bowl of sauce floating in the middle of the pot, which is called dipping water here. The main ingredient is chili. The way to eat it is to pour the soup in the soup pot Here, dip the pork and eat it.

In the process of chatting with the host family, I learned that in the process of social development and changes, the loss of some cultures in Miao Village is inevitable, and the characteristics of their own nation are becoming less and less. Everyone likes to go to restaurants in the town for weddings, which saves time and money.
Calculated from today's various expenses, the full moon wine cost more than 10,000 yuan, which was saved by them working part-time for a year. And if you go to the town to do it, at most 5,000 yuan is enough.
But the host said that as Miao people, they must have their own cultural inheritance. I fully understand this sentence. They work in big cities and wander for too long mentally. When encountering important moments in life, they must find the return of culture. On the surface, it seems that I have paid a lot materially, but I have received spiritual approval and returned to my original heart.
Haval SUV has also returned to its original intention in the matter of making cars. It has invested more cost than joint venture car companies, but the price is more conscientious. It is also to gain consumers' recognition of its own brand. Big Dog is such an excellent work , It is foreseeable that such a benign development will make Haval the first choice of consumers in the SUV field.

Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village, everything is answered with beauty

In the southeast of Guizhou, the Miao territory stretches for thousands of miles, and there are countless villages, but none of the villages dare to challenge the unique and proud title of Xijiang Miao villages - "Thousands of Miao Villages". The Miao family living in Xijiang has more than 1,200 households and a population of more than 6,000. It is a veritable thousand-household village and the largest Miao village in China.
Whether it has a long history or a profound cultural background, the first thing that shocks you about Xijiang is the magnificence and harmony of the overall appearance of Qianhu Miao Village.
The huge village is backed by the mountains, and the stilted buildings are row upon row, arranged in an orderly manner, patchwork, quiet and comfortable;
The crystal clear Baishui River meanders through the village at the bottom of the valley;
In front of the village and behind the village, the rice fields are Yiyi. Xijiang is indeed a warm and beautiful pastoral scenery, a quiet and simple ancient village, a beautiful and moving ink painting.
When you want to ask whether Xijiang, which has been developed into a scenic spot, is worth visiting? Yu Qiuyu, who has traveled thousands of mountains and rivers, said that Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village is a place that answers everything with beauty.

It is said that Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village is ordinary, then it is just a Miao village in southeast Guizhou, which has been developed into a tourist attraction, which is very ordinary;
It is said that Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village is unusual because it represents the history and culture of all Miao villages, and it is indeed unusual.
If you must ask whether Xijiang is worth visiting, Yu Qiuyu, who has traveled thousands of mountains and rivers, said that Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village is a place that answers everything with beauty.

When the Miao people mention Xijiang, they call it "Xijiang Dazhai" respectfully. Due to the constraints of high mountains, dangerous roads and steep terrain, Xijiang has always had closed traffic, which makes it rarely communicate with the outside world, so it has well preserved, created and developed its own system of Miao culture. For the whole country and the world, Xijiang is a place that cannot be ignored when exploring Miao culture.

Whether it has a long history or a profound cultural background, the first thing that shocks you about Xijiang is the magnificence and harmony of the overall appearance of Qianhu Miao Village. The huge village is backed by the mountains, and the stilted buildings are row upon row, arranged in an orderly manner, patchwork, quiet and comfortable;
The clear Baishui River meanders through the village at the bottom of the valley; in front of the village and behind the village, there are rice fields. Xijiang is indeed a warm and beautiful pastoral scenery, a quiet and simple ancient village, a beautiful and moving ink painting.

The thing that fascinates you the most in Xijiang is its stilted residential buildings - Diaojiaolou. The frame of the house is connected by joints. A house needs hundreds of pillars, beams, and piercings, and thousands of holes.
The carpenter who built the house was uneducated and did not need blueprints. He could connect the pillars of the stilted buildings, the squares and the beams, and make the house stand tall on the steep slope with just an ink fountain and ink lines.
Miao architecture is actually a group art of the Miao people, which embodies the collective wisdom of the Miao ancestors.

The reason why the stilt-style buildings were built is because the ancestors of the Miao people were migrating. Wherever they went, there were many miasmas, poisonous grasses and sand fleas on the mountains, and they built stilted buildings to avoid risks. The second is to build on the mountain, and build on the mountain, which can intensively land. The spacious land is used to make fields and soil, as the source of sustaining the life of the entire nation. It can be said that the Leishan Miao architectural style is a model of land intensiveness of the Chinese nation.

Many people have different opinions on Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village. The most common voice is about commercialization.
The promotional positioning has shaped the imaginary image of thousands of Miao villages in Xijiang for tourists: the Miao family is simple and natural, and the smoke from the houses on stilts is curling up. , the big and small festivals are very lively.
Everyone who walks into a thousand Miao villages longs to see the authentic life of the ancient Miao villages and enjoy the tranquility far away from the world in the simple and simple villages, but finds that their expectations have been shattered from door to door in the commercial street. When a bar is broken, there will be some loss, but this kind of loss is unnecessary. The local area needs development, and the villagers need to get rid of poverty. They are inseparable from tourism development and foreign investment. But as long as the enthusiasm of the Miao family remains unchanged, I will Would love it here too.

Fortunately, in Xijiang today, I still feel this enthusiasm. At the north gate of Miao Village, there will be a welcome ceremony for hundreds of people at 10:30 every day. When it is not raining, it will be held on the steps. The ultra-large-scale roadblock wine "High Mountain and Flowing Water" is also a major motivation for me to come to Xijiang, but it is a pity that after leaving Gaopo Yunding, the sunny day said goodbye to us, and it was rainy and foggy every day. There is an old saying that there is no sunshine in three days.

The weather is cold, but it can't hinder the enthusiasm of the Miao family. The rain did not cancel the welcome ceremony, but moved to the wind and rain corridor. No wonder every Miao village has a wind and rain bridge. Even in rainy days, there is a place to welcome guests .

Hundreds of young Miao girls lined up on both sides, the reeds sounded, and the guests passed by. This kind of super VIP treatment is nowhere to be found except in Qiandongnan.

With such folk customs, such enthusiasm, and such villages, where is it necessary to go abroad to experience the customs of other regions, Qiandongnan can meet all your needs.

Like Langde Shangzhai, Xijiang also has performances. Because of the large population, the venue and scale of the performances are larger. Every day at 2 pm, it is held on the ancient Lusheng field. Because there are many tourists, if you want to sit in a good place , have to arrive earlier.

It has to be said that the Miao people are naturally good at singing and dancing, and every villager is not stage fright. We cannot say that the Miao people have no written language, but singing and dancing are used to inherit history and culture, and it has developed from generation to generation.
Thus, flying songs, wine songs, ancient songs, love songs, and Gabaifu songs were born, and Lusheng dance, copper drum dance, wooden drum dance, and bench dance were born to convey feelings, vent, nostalgia, and To tell each other heartfeltly.

"Food nourishes one's health, singing nourishes one's heart, and it is difficult to be a man without singing." This concept has become a national cultural custom passed down from generation to generation by the Miao people.
Xijiang has been known as the "sea of ​​singing and dancing" since ancient times. The high-pitched and resonant flying songs, the profound and forceful wine songs, the lingering and melodious love songs, and the harmonious melody of Gabaifu songs constitute the main theme of Xijiang's sea of ​​songs.

Until now, among the Miao people’s mate selection criteria, boys who can sing and play the lusheng are still more popular. The performance also specifically presents the process of dating young men and women of the Miao nationality, such as the talent show, Miao Village Good Voice, Moon Black At night when the wind is high, the young man sings in front of the girl's door, and the door will be opened for the young man only when the singing is moving.

The ancient songs of the Miao nationality that I have heard once in Langde Shangzhai, Xijiang is more powerful and has more people. Because of the arrangement by professionals, different voices have appeared.

The reserved program of Xijiang Miao Village is called "Golden Pheasant Dance". This is a dance created by the Miao people to thank the Golden Pheasant for saving the lives of their ancestors. It plays an important role in festivals and sacrifices. It prays for national prosperity and happiness in life. Dress yourself up, imitate the shape and movement of the golden pheasant, or rotate, or fly, form a circle, move forward and backward with your hands up.

It was night and I was hungry. I went to a small shop on the top of the mountain and called the boss. I asked for a pot of two catties of fresh fish in sour soup, half a catty of rice wine and cola. It's fun.
The rice wine is about a few degrees, and the stomach is slightly drunk after half a catty, but the spirit is very good.
Going out along Qingshi Road, passing through the dazzling array of shops on both sides, walking all the way to the viewing platform, looking up, the lights of thousands of houses spread from the shops at the bottom of the mountain to the top of the mountain, and there are bursts of reeds in the air, as if at this time Just by raising my hand, I can pick off a light, and at that time, my heart was unbelievably warm.

Winter in Guizhou gets dark early, and the villagers are often busy until dark before returning home. The Miao Village is built on the hillside, and the road home is not smooth. In order to facilitate walking on the road, each household hangs a An oil lamp, in order to save energy, has been replaced by nearly 4,000 energy-saving sightseeing lamps today.

The Wind and Rain Bridge is colorful in the night, and the lights on both sides of the Baishui River spread along the hillside to the top of the mountain. Thousands of lights are spectacular, and the entire Xijiang Miao Village is like a magnificent painting painted in gold.

It's time to leave. I am nostalgic for the mountain roads, stilted buildings, wind and rain bridges, as well as the enthusiastic rice wine and Miao songs. I like Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village very much. I hope more people can see that under the surface of commercialization, it Its own highlights and beauty.
Just like the Haval Dog uses its quality and driving experience to answer people's doubts about domestic cars, Xijiang also uses its own beauty to answer everything. If you are too picky about the appearance of commercialization, then get yourself drunk with three bowls of rice wine first. Maybe only with a hangover can you understand the preface of Xijiang is a dream.

Kala Village, Danzhai, the Miao family's handicraft non-heritage heritage site

Like many Miao villages, Danzhai is located in a remote area with relatively backward technology and economic development. The villagers have been living a self-sufficient farming life. The ancient traditional handicraft skills are thus preserved.
According to the customs of the Miao nationality, all women have to follow their mothers to learn batik and birdcage skills from the age of seven or eight. When they get married, each woman has several sets of decent costumes and birdcages as dowry.
These skills are integrated with the unique cultural connotation of the Miao family, imprinted with their five thousand years of migration history, and passed down little by little through the great hands of women.

The Panshan Road from Leishan County, where Xijiang is located, to Danzhai County was blocked due to mudslides. We could only choose to detour at the high speed, driving a big dog and galloping freely, feeling the power of the 1.5T turbocharged engine Power, feeling the silky smoothness of the 7-speed wet dual-clutch gearbox, what is even more reassuring is that Haval also implements a lifetime warranty for the core components of the Big Dog’s engine + gearbox, so, friends, feel free to drive Big Dog Go out and surf.

Some friends may think that the name of the big dog is a bit rustic, but I don’t think that compared with many domestic car companies with a foreign name, now Haval has enough technical confidence and has begun to get rid of the need to be “foreign” to raise The process of own value, and the big dog is definitely not a tacky name, it is easy to understand, down-to-earth, very life-like, compared to "explorer, pathfinder, explorer, explorer..." Shout out louder.
When I only heard the name but didn't see it, the name Big Dog directly projected a scene in my mind: a group of young people running on the grass with a big dog in a sunny afternoon... It was destined to be Be my faithful partner in life, leading me to break through the barriers of mountains and go to the land of dreams.

Not long after getting off the highway, we arrived at our destination - Kara Village.
Everyone must know about karaoke, but not many people know about karaoke village.
Kala Village in Danzhai County is the famous "Hometown of Birdcage Weaving Art" in China.
Before approaching this village, you can see a big birdcage standing on the top of the hill from a distance. The street lamps on both sides of the road are in the shape of birdcages, and there is a strong message of birdcage culture everywhere.

The villagers here are all engaged in weaving birdcages. The weaving skills have a history of more than 400 years. It is the most distinctive ethnic village in Danzhai County, and all the residents of the village are Miao.

The big dog was parked in a spacious place with the automatic parking function, and we started to visit on foot. There are many beautifully woven birdcages piled up under a Miaojia wooden building in the stockade. A Miao in a Miao costume The woman from the family bowed her head and was making a birdcage, which properly attracted our attention. After asking, she did not refuse our request to take pictures at all, but also received us warmly and left contact information for each other. It turns out that this Miao girl is called Wang Qiu is also the hostess of this house.

Originally she wanted us to come in for tea, but in order not to disturb her work, we asked her to chat with us while making a birdcage. We were curious about the origin of Kara Village. In Miao language, Kara means "good craftsmanship". ", every household here will make birdcages, and the handicrafts made of bamboo are the unique skills of the Kala Miao people.
In the past, due to inconvenient transportation, the birdcages made could only be used for viewing or raising birds, and the income was very meager.

After the transportation is improved, the village encourages the development of rural tourism, attracting many domestic and foreign tourists. A birdcage association has also been established in the village, and Wang Qiu has also launched online sales. It is said that their birdcages are exported to Japan, Europe, America and other places.

Today, the birdcage has brought benefits and changes to the lives of the Kala villagers, but their innate hospitality and authenticity remain the same.
In Guizhou, there are many remote villages with high mountains and far roads like Kala village. As long as you are like Kala and are good at using local resources, you will be like "Birdcage Xishi", weaving beautiful birdcages and weaving at the same time with your own skillful hands. It provided them with a contented and affluent life.

You can also experience simple birdcage making here in Wang Qiu, but to be honest, it is still a bit difficult for novices, because the birdcage making process is extremely complicated, and it has to go through more than ten steps such as cutting bamboo, breaking bamboo, dehumidifying, shaping, weaving, and coloring. Today, the birdcage making skills of Kara Village were also included in the list of intangible cultural heritage of Guizhou Province in 2009.

In Danzhai Kara Village, one of the national intangible cultural heritages that can be seen is the famous batik of the Miao family. Speaking of which, the handicraft skills of Miao batik in Danzhai County have a long history. As early as the Qin and Han Dynasties, the ancestors of the Miao He has mastered the batik technique, and it is recorded in "Historical Records": "Use wax to paint flowers on cloth and dye them. After removing the wax, the patterns will be as painted."

When I entered the other side of the village, I saw several batik workshops. The villagers were collecting freshly harvested indigo at the door of their homes. Guizhou is rich in this kind of indigo grass, which is a Polygonaceae plant. The leaves are fermented in pits to become indigo.

The Miao batik process is divided into multiple steps such as burning wax, drawing wax, dyeing cloth, steaming and rinsing, among which drawing wax is the most creative step. It requires not only exquisite craftsmanship, but also rich imagination.

The place where the wax is engraved will not be dyed blue in the dyeing vat, and then the wax will be heated to remove it, and the fabric will have two colors of blue and white.
But batik is not just for a pattern of white flowers on a blue background. Behind each pattern is the rich story and cultural heritage behind the Miao people.
For example, the huge nest pattern on the back of the old grandmother, there is a legend that when a girl was sick, she squeezed out the juice from the indigo grass and drank it, turning it into a potion, and she was cured after drinking it. The Miao family didn't know how to thank it, so they painted it on their clothes and wore it to cure diseases and eliminate harm.

It is very curious to find that the tool for drawing wax flowers is not a brush, but a self-made steel knife.
The grandma told us that it is easy to cool and solidify with a brush dipped in wax, and a steel painting knife is easy to keep warm.
This kind of steel knife is composed of two thin copper sheets of the same shape, one end is tied to the wooden handle, the edge of the knife is slightly open and the middle is slightly hollow, so that it is easy to dip in beeswax.
It seems to be a simple operation, but it is actually not easy to use a wax knife to draw patterns. It is very difficult just to keep the wax marks even, let alone the more detailed and complicated patterns we have seen.

The final pattern left on the cloth depends on the melted wax traces left by the copper knife in the hand on the cloth.
You may be as curious as I am, why the Hmong batik only dyes white flowers on a blue background, can't there be more colors? After I went home and checked the information, I found out that because indigo dyeing is a redox reaction, it only needs to be carried out in ordinary cold water; while plant dyes such as safflower and gardenia xanthin can only be carried out in hot water at a higher temperature. Cotton cloth can only be dyed in the middle, otherwise it will be easy to fade.
However, the beeswax has already melted at such a high temperature and cannot maintain the flower shape that prevents dyeing. Therefore, batik was difficult to make batik fabrics of other colors in ancient times.

With the changes and innovations of modern crafts and tools, there are alternative materials with higher melting points, and many colored batiks have also begun to appear.
Today's traditional batik has become a very outstanding cultural feature of the Miao and other ethnic minorities. I think there will be a day when we are more confident in our national culture, batik, an ancient skill, will definitely be combined with modern lifestyles, radiate fresh vitality, and be recognized by modern society.

To be honest, pure handicrafts may not be so attractive to tourists. In order to attract more tourists to visit Danzhai and inherit the intangible cultural heritage of the Miao family, Wanda also invested in the construction of a Danzhai Wanda Town near Kala Village. , the accommodation inside is very good, but the price is around 150 yuan, which is a very good choice.

And every morning at ten o'clock in the morning, there is a welcome ceremony at the Yougong Square at the entrance of the town. Girls and boys from the Miao and Dong ethnic groups will be invited to perform folk songs and dances. Danzhai has added some vitality.

The best program is the Dong Nationality Song, which is also a national intangible cultural heritage. Today is the first time I have experienced it. In such a noisy and open venue, it can directly hit the heart. It is conceivable that it will arrive in a few days Xiao Huang, when I listen to the world's highest-level big song, I will definitely be moved to tears.

Basha Miao Village, the Legacy of the Warriors

Walking into Basha is like walking into the original ecological historical scenery.
The wildness, roughness, and vigor of the plateau and mountains are blended with the ancient myths and legends of the Miao people. The simplicity, strength, primitiveness, and mystery are rendered vigorously here.
Walking into Basha is like walking into the ancient tribal life.
The dark, resolute, calm, and strong Basha men, their dresses, movements, expressions, and personalities, look so ancient. Their hair is combed in a bun, and they are wrapped in white handkerchiefs. Pants, a machete gourd iron sand bag on the waist, gunpowder guns and firecrackers on the shoulders, and they are used to walking barefoot. . .

Lasha Village in Congjiang County is a place with completely different living customs from other villages, full of mystery, and a place with warrior heritage. It is a poetic village.
It is hidden deep in the jungle, hidden in the depths of ancient history. In the course of thousands of years of history, it has been hidden so deeply that there is no trace of it on a map of China or Guizhou.

But as its fame grew, more and more documentaries were made about it. After the road was built, this village named Basha couldn't be hidden anymore.

Walking into Basha is like walking into the original ecological historical scenery.
The wildness, roughness, and vigor of the plateau and mountains are blended with the ancient myths and legends of the Miao people. The simplicity, strength, primitiveness, and mystery are rendered vigorously here.

Walking into Basha is like walking into the ancient tribal life, and the atmosphere is quite different from the world at the foot of the mountain.

The dark, resolute, calm, and strong Basha men, their dresses, movements, expressions, and personalities, look so ancient. Their hair is combed in a bun, and they are wrapped in white handkerchiefs. Trousers, machete gourd iron sand bag at the waist, musket on the shoulder, flower bag on the back, wine crate, machete and other equipment neatly hung on the belt of the trousers; wearing a black high-waisted coat with a round copper button on the left lapel and right, straight and large There are a pair of bare feet on the bottom of the trousers; the face is resolute and simple, with a bun on the top of the head and a striped kerchief wrapped around it, he looks like a warrior of the Warring States Period.

Although they are black Miao warriors, Basha people still inherit the custom of Miao people who love to sing and dance. There is also an ancient Lusheng hall in the village, and they will welcome guests all the way there when they receive guests at the gate of the village.

Dozens of people got ready, only to hear the resounding sound of mother Lusheng, the sound of musical instruments, everyone moved, and the dance began.
Four men formed a circle in the center of the venue, two of them were holding mother reeds, one was holding a light tube, and the other was holding a small reed, their bodies swaying with the rhythm.
Outside, eight men formed a circle and played the small reeds, dancing and playing in unison to the music.
In the outermost circle are more than a dozen girls, holding embroidered handkerchiefs or brocade belts with both hands, smiling.
The man's movements are rough and wild, showing the content of farming and hunting, ups and downs, vigorous and vigorous. The woman's posture is graceful and graceful, reflecting daily life movements, such as drying, picking, embroidering, combing, weaving, starching, washing and mending, with gentle movements.

Finally, the men carrying the guns were also mobilized by the music and swayed freely with the music. After a few minutes, they stopped playing and put down their instruments, each picked up their muskets and stood out of the grass pavilion, joined the lineup of gunmen who stood outside the pavilion first, spread their legs apart, and assumed the shape and expression of shooting birds of prey in the air, and fired one by one. Trigger, bang-bang-bang, after the sound of the gunpowder, the smell of gunpowder spread out, and there was no end to the green smoke.

The hair style of Basha people is also very unique. The ancestors made a rule that the middle bundle of hair on the top of the head is kept from the mother's womb and will never be shaved off. At the age of fourteen, they began to shave off with a sickle, indicating that they had grown up, and then put on a white headkerchief tied in a circle.
When shaving your head, you don't use razors and electric shears, but use a scythe for cutting grass and crops. I saw an old Basha man bent down, with a calm expression, pressing his palm on the "Miao Jiu Jiu" on the top of a young man's head. , Zlazlazla's voice, immediately revealing his white scalp.

The young people don’t move, let the old man fiddle with them, don’t use water or soap in the shaving process, just dry shave, the young people don’t make a sound, sure enough, there is a warrior legacy everywhere in Bazaar.

At the end of the performance, the enthusiastic Bazaar beauties began to offer rice wine to the guests, and even offered a toast to the ones who were pleasing to the eye, which made the whole venue boil.

Girls in Basha are very generous, they are not as shy as city girls, as long as you are attractive, they must drink the rice wine in her hand.

After the performance, the people of Basha returned to their daily life. Men farmed and women weaved. We also found an old man in the village to talk about the history of Basha. There are more than 2,100 Basha people, who belong to a branch of Heilong, and are said to be the descendants of Chiyou's third son. Their ancestors fled and settled here, and their hardships and beliefs made them have unique customs.
Basha people worship trees and believe that the souls of their ancestors are attached to the trees. Therefore, rare tree species that have grown for hundreds of years can be seen everywhere in the village.
Most of them lead a self-sufficient life. Whether they are old people or children, they all wear Miao costumes made of self-woven and self-dyed fabrics: men wear collarless blue cloth clothes, straight leg trousers and blue cloth pants, and women wear pleated clothes. Short skirt and bellyband.
Basha men like to be armed, and they must carry waist knives and shotguns when they go out. In order to respect their customs, the relevant departments specially approved to allow each Basha man to have a shotgun.

Before leaving, the old man who had been chatting with us specially loaded gunpowder and fired a farewell gun for us. This is a courtesy only for distinguished guests in Bazaar.

In the world of Basha, people stubbornly stick to a plain and simple life. Their desires are not as complicated and material as those of modern urbanites. The wealth of Basha men is muskets, wine baskets, machetes, pipes, gunpowder gourds, and they can be happy if they have these few things.

Xiaohuang Dong Village, singing and sitting on the moon

Why is Xiao Huang so beautiful? Because there are songs in the scenes, and scenes in the songs.

The small Huangbazi with a flat river, the towering Drum Tower, the numerous Dong villages and the curling smoke, and the ancient banyan forest with verdant green and intertwined roots that stand in contrast to the river.
No matter when it is misty in the morning or when the sun is melting into gold, you always blend into Dong songs unconsciously, and you can't find where it starts and where it rests.
It floats from the clear waves, overflows from the cooking smoke, it is the summer cicadas singing among the banyan branches, and it is the birds singing in the forest.
The singing voice rises, then sinks down, flying to the spinning wheel under the oil lamp, to the cusp of the water under the ancient banyan tree, and back to the fragrant clouds of the Dong girls. You forget the joys and sorrows of life and death.

The three villages of Xiaohuang, Gaohuang and Xingqian are gathered together. Xiaohuang, a Dong village named after "Xiaohuang", blooms like a bunch of gorgeous flowers in the small alpine basin of Congjiang. All the small wooden buildings with dry columns are clustered one after another in the fields interspersed with forests and streams, forming a unique style of buildings.

The giant cedar-like Drum Tower and stage standing in the center of the village constantly reveal the mysteries of Dong culture and always lead people into an untitled situation. Every house here, like Drum Tower, Wind and Rain Bridge, and stage, has consciously or unconsciously become a school for Dong people to sing, learn, and teach big songs. From the antique buildings, I feel the Dong The unique fragrance of the village.

Diaojiaolou is the home of the Dong family, and most of them are two- and three-story structures of inverted pyramids with a large top and a small bottom. All have spacious promenades, with places for sitting, for taking a nap, receiving guests, and for Dong family members to weave and embroider while humming Dong songs.

The roof is covered with double-sided blue tiles, and the ridge and eaves are whitewashed with lime. In the morning or twilight, looking at the village under the sky and the green mountains and clear waters in the distance, the curling smoke rises from the simple yellow-brown and white lines, plus the faint sounds of people and animals and the sound of people outside the village. Layers of well-proportioned terraced fields against the background will give people the illusion that they are in the depths of Taoyuan.

The roads in Xiaohuangzhai are relatively narrow, and livestock are scattered around. For an SUV, it requires very skilled handling. Fortunately, Big Dog has a 360-degree video system, which can project the surrounding situation on the central control panel. On the screen, when the distance is less than 100 mm, an alarm will be displayed, which is very friendly to novices and makes driving more comfortable.

After entering the village, of course, first look at the Drum Tower and the Wind and Rain Corridor Bridge, and take pictures slowly while watching the daily life of the villagers. When we walked to a small covered bridge, an old man was sitting on a bench playing with his mobile phone. When he saw us taking pictures of the bridge, he walked over with a smile, chatted with us, and introduced some of the situation in the village.

We asked, why is the big song of the Dong nationality here so famous, but few people seem to know it?
He said that his village cadres are also planning this matter recently. If there is too much publicity to the outside world, tourists will flock to it, but the hospitality facilities in the village cannot keep up, which will give people a very bad impression. So in the past two years, many houses have been built in the village one after another, and the hardware facilities have been improved. If we do a good job of publicity, we hope that more people will travel here.
He asked what suggestions we had for the place. This question stumps us. I said: "Actually, we like to see things that are less lively and more original. If the development here is too fast, it will be the same as Zhaoxing, and it will feel too commercialized. However, if we keep the current state, It's not what you hoped for, can there be a good compromise?"
He was also thoughtful after listening.

Afterwards, they took us for a walk around the village.

In both Dong and Miao villages, there is a tradition of making Dong brocade by hand. People use natural materials to dye the cloth, coat it with egg white after drying, and beat it repeatedly with a wooden mallet, so that the cloth can keep its luster for a long time, and it is rainproof and dirt-resistant.

The elders of the Dong family still like this simple and traditional weaving method, and like to wear "bright cloth" clothing that they spun, printed and dyed by themselves.

The Dong family has a daughter, and the first craft mother taught her daughter is brocade weaving. Girls usually start learning brocade weaving when they are teenagers. When they get married, their family will give her a set of wooden homemade looms as a dowry. The family weaves brocade for the whole family, and after becoming a mother, the brocade weaving skills are passed on to the next generation. This is how Dong brocade weaving is passed down from generation to generation.

After showing us the production of Dong brocade, the uncle told me that at around 8 o'clock after dinner, there will be girls and boys singing big songs under the Drum Tower. This news is really a surprise to us. I know, Xiaohuang's biggest expectation is to listen to the big song.

After dinner early, I sat quietly at the Drum Tower and watched the night of the Dong Village with great interest. A crescent moon hangs obliquely in the sky, and the faint moonlight adds an imaginative color to the Xiaohuang Dong Village. The densely packed eaves pavilions in the daytime have now turned into a black pattern. I will meet you in the afternoon. The uncle came again, and a bonfire was raised in the Drum Tower, which warmed my body and my heart.

When it was almost 8 o'clock, the girl of the Dong nationality also came, sat on the opposite bench and smiled at us, and then hummed a song to show off the flowers, and the night became more and more beautiful.

The Han family has endless books to read, and the Dong family has endless songs to sing. The Dong people have no written language, so their wisdom and history are preserved through language and singing. The children grew up listening to the songs, which told them the principles of life and the history of the Dong people. Young men and women gather in groups of three or four in the Drum Tower, expressing their feelings with singing and looking for the person they like.

In an instant, after the watery little girl on the opposite side started the tune generously and softly, more than 10 young ladies around her continued to pronounce at the same time, and the beautiful melody instantly filled the Drum Tower and resounded throughout the Dong village, like a The brook gurgled by. Suddenly a piece of soprano jumps up from the stream, and a piece of alto floats on the surface of the stream, embracing each other, laughing and flowing to your heart, and then gradually seeping down, seeping down...

In the eyes of the little yellow people, "singing nourishes the heart and food nourishes the body". Singing is as important as eating. They fill the spiritual gap with singing and opera, and develop a good habit of "singing for pride and joy". Habit. From the time the children started babbling, their parents began to teach singing, playing the corbel qin, and playing the pipa. They have been singing, playing, and playing like this until they are old. It has been passed down from generation to generation. It can be seen that the little Huang Dong compatriots have great love for Dage. It is no wonder that it has been regarded as the birthplace of "big songs" since ancient times.

Compared with the Dong people in other places, the most prominent point of Xiaohuang is its universal music life. All the villagers are fanatical and obsessed with singing. From birth to death, they never stop singing. Here, men, women and children, everyone can sing. The performance teams organized by the village include juveniles, youth choirs, and senior choruses.

Song is an indispensable life element of the Dong people. It condenses the cultural essence of the entire Dong people. It not only sings the whole life, but also interprets the Dong people's humble attitude towards nature and life. At the same time, singing is also a carrier for the Dong people to express their expressions, express their feelings, and gain insight into their souls.　

It may be for this reason that there are clear and harmonious sounds advocating nature in the singing, such as the chirping of birds in the morning, the flowing water of high mountains, and the cool breeze in the forest, which inadvertently penetrate into people's heart and spleen, and reach the soul directly. deep. For tourists from all walks of life in the Dong village, listening to the songs of the Dong nationality will be a rare journey of physical and mental relaxation, or it is not known whether it will be a baptism of the soul?

Living in the Xiaohuang Dong village, feeling the feelings of expressing love with songs, expressing feelings with dance, and offering wine as a gift, makes people still stay in their hometown;
Listening to the Dong songs sung by Di Lingqian at night, the Dong villages hidden in the mist in the distance are like a dream. Tonight, there are only two audiences, Aken and I, but they still sing so hard. Music notes can pass through the ears and into the heart.
The chorus without conductor, accompaniment, multi-part, and natural harmony has long been included in the list of intangible cultural heritage. The sound of spring, the sound of cicadas, and the voices of the children of the Dong family. .

Zhaoxing Dong Village, a lonely and independent peach blossom source

The basin between the emerald green mountains is surrounded by hundreds of families. This "beauty" selected by the Spring Festival Gala
Outlined in the fog and smoke, she is called Dongzhai and was born in Zhaoxing.
Whether it is working in the desk, exhausted physically and mentally in the reinforced concrete jungle, looking for a place away from the hustle and bustle;
Still looking for the true meaning of life, wanting to break out of the encirclement of modern industrial civilization and find a peaceful and peaceful place;
Zhaoxing Dong Village is a good choice.
Here, there is no noise and regret left by industrial civilization, but only the tranquility and simplicity of the mountains and fields;
There is no bustling city with bright lights, but only the unrepeatable beauty in the slump.

Compared with Xijiang Miao Village, Zhaoxing Dong Village became famous later. If CCTV Spring Festival Gala hadn’t used it as a branch venue, Zhaoxing might still exist in the word of mouth among backpackers.
In today's impetuous era, late blooming is the right way. With the afternoon sunshine, we drove into Zhaoxing. Next to the road, there was a paddy field, a few willows, the breeze blowing, and the fragrance of rice flowers coming from the pavement. The original ecology caught people off guard. .

The entire stockade is sandwiched between two high mountains, and the densely packed houses at the foot of the mountain extend inward according to the mountain, and you can't see the end at a glance, like a sleeping dragon lying quietly at the bottom of the valley, motionless, peaceful and peaceful.

If Xiaohuang is a brightly colored oil painting, then Zhaoxing, known as the "No. 1 village in Dong Township", is more like a meticulous painting with subtle colors and rich connotations, bringing together the magnificent natural scenery and mysterious and unique folk customs in Southeast Guizhou Engraved in it one by one.

Not long after entering the stockade, I met Dong girls dressed up at the Fengyu Bridge at the entrance, ready to sing big songs, with bright smiles, bright and moving, and the Dong brocade and silver ornaments they wore always set off the beauty of the village. They are the most beautiful.

At ten o'clock, the welcome ceremony of Zhaoxing Dong Village began, "singing, mountain flowers bloom, welcome to Dong Village, ah, eh, kejiu, welcome to Dong Village, friend, girl in costume Let’s dance for you, and the simple village gate will open for you..." The lyrics and melody of this song were still circulating in my mind for several days after I came back.

In addition to the big song, the most famous Dong village is of course the Drum Tower, especially the group of Drum Towers is rare in the world.
There are five drum towers in Zhaoxing, which are named after the Fang clan: benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom and faith. There are also 5 flower bridges, 5 theaters, and five big house families in parallel.
Standing tall in the village of the flowing water pastoral, it lasts for a long time.

As a symbol and landmark of the Dong culture, the Drum Tower is not only the belief and aspiration of the Dong people, but also the cultural center for their discussions and festivals. The shape of the Drum Tower is mainly tower-shaped, and the interior integrates pavilions and pavilions. The beams and columns are inscribed with couplets of poems, and there are pictures of folklore, legends and history on the surrounding crossbars.

Of course, in addition to the functions of warning, sacrifice, celebration and discussion, the Drum Tower is more about providing a place for residents to live and relax. There are many long benches in the building. Usually, all kinds of people gather in groups, doing their own things in twos and threes.

The old people hold a long dry tobacco rod in their mouths, and they are leisurely and contented, smoking the days into wisps of green smoke, and then savoring it carefully.
Here, it is not only a scenic spot, but also the daily life of local residents. For the visiting guests, they have long been familiar with the strangeness, and faced it with a smile, ignoring the curious eyes of the backpackers and the sound of the shutter all the way.
This primitive and natural atmosphere, in our words, is full of original ecology, probably this is the unique taste of the Dong village.

Drum Tower, Stage and Flower Bridge are the three indispensable primary colors of the Dong village. If any of them are missing, the scenery of the Dong village and the life of the Dong village will be eclipsed in an instant.

I don’t know how to describe it. I always feel that all the buildings in the Dong Village have a super high sense of ritual. The magnificence of the Drum Tower and the thickness of the Huaqiao, the loud and clear songs of the Dong people, the sense of ritual is like the vigorous vitality of the Chinese nation, hidden deep in the The tenderness of every Dong family.

This is the last Drum Tower in Zhaoxing, with seven layers of eaves and octagonal peaks, and a height of 18.47 meters. The overall structure of the Drum Tower is similar to the other four. Next to the Drum Tower is the theater stage, which is located in the middle of the upper floor of a three-entry two-story wooden building. Every year from the fourth day of the first lunar month, the theater stage performs Dong opera, day and night, without a break for three days. After the performance of one group village, the next group village will continue, and the five group villages will perform in turn until the Lantern Festival. Of course, people's favorite plays are the famous Dong operas such as "Zhu Lang Niang Mei" and "Shan Lang Wu Mei", which are widely spread in Dong areas.

In the Dong village, there is an old street similar to the ancient town of Fenghuang. In the middle, there is a clear stream passing through the street, a stream of clear water, two rows of stilted buildings, small bridges with green trees, and waterwheels with thatched sheds. On both sides of the stream are Dong-style old wooden houses. The waterwheels and thatched tents may be scenes from the farming era. I only think that the yellow-brown tone matches the emerald green color of the grassy stream, which is pleasing to the eye and clears the mind.

Walking in the Dong village, I am always surrounded by a little bit of happiness. Because Zhaoxing Dong village is a magical place, the rhythm here is slow, tourists can go shopping, eat and play in the village, and the Dong compatriots live here, everyone is leisurely and peaceful, letting go of all the worries and worries of the Buddha. Anxiety is blocked by the mountains, and the passage of time is getting slower and slower. . .
I like the life and human touch of Zhaoxing Dong Village so much, even if I stay lazy, I will be very comfortable and happy.

The time accompanied by beautiful scenery always slips too fast, and it is almost dusk when you walk out of the old street. After a while, the twilight gradually darkened, the street lights were turned on one by one, and the Drum Tower, stage and Huaqiao in the distance gradually disappeared in the firelight under the colorful lights. The silhouettes of thick and thin window grilles are full of poetry under the bright moon. The night cut off the hustle and bustle of daytime tourists, put down their bags, and wandered the streets. Although the shops were still open, the bosses no longer took business seriously. Perhaps, they knew better what the people staying in the village wanted to hear from everyone. The mood of the song is more than that of shopping. Occasionally, a couple of slightly drunk people walk through the street, and they feel that it is appropriate. After all, all the pursuit of nothingness is worse than a drunkenness after letting go of oneself.

When the moon rises, the music starts, and the performances in the Dong village begin. People sit or stand freely, but the actors are serious about their performances. They may be salesmen, drivers, guides, and peasant women during the day. At night, they transformed themselves and stepped onto the stage, interpreting the beauty of Dong culture with their posture and singing voice.

Here, generations of Dong people live here who "worship nature with awe, answer suffering with a smile, face strangeness with enthusiasm, and demonstrate tradition with calmness".
One side of water and soil and one side of people, one Dong village and one song,
The unsophisticated style that can't be said enough, the infinite scenery that can't be heard and seen without dissatisfaction
If you are also looking for the independent peach blossom source, Zhaoxing is waiting for you.

Paimo Village, going to a carnival of Miao Nian

There are many impoverished counties in Southeast Guizhou, but because of this, they retain more folk culture and bring a unique travel experience across the country. Under the Drum Tower and on the Wind and Rain Bridge, the power of happiness gives them life choices that are light on material and heavy on spirit. , Facing poor mountains and rivers, they still sing and dance, celebrating more than two hundred festivals a year, as if their happiness has never been related to material things.
If you are determined to go to Qiandongnan, you must find the best time, and the most lively time of the year is the Miao Nian in November. This is the most important festival in Qiandongnan. In 3 days, the cottage The streets and alleys in the city have become a carnival resort for tens of thousands of people. Food, dance, cockfights, and bullfights, this is a celebration for the New Year, but it is also a hysterical carnival that breaks the sense of boundaries.

Among the representative festivals of ethnic minorities living in Guizhou, the "Miao Year" of the Miao nationality is a festival that integrates the calendar and sacrifice. Since ancient times, October of the lunar calendar has been used as the beginning of the year. The harvest festival is also a day of offering sacrifices to ancestors and gods, praying for good weather and a good harvest in the coming year.
However, due to the barriers of mountains, there are not many traffic connections between villages, so the time for celebrating the Miao Year in each village is different. When we were in Danzhai County, we found out that Paimo Village and Paiyue Village deep in the mountains will be in We will definitely not miss the new year of Miao in the near future.

The two villages are about 100 kilometers away from Danzhai County. One is south and the other is north. The mountain roads are rugged and difficult. We also reduced the speed of the vehicle to ensure safety. In fact, Haval also put a lot of thought into the safety design of the vehicle. The high-strength steel of the body has reached about 70%, and it is also equipped with "unequal thickness" steel plate TRB, and the door is formed by "one-piece" hot stamping. In the three major aspects of "occupant safety", "vehicle safety" and "driving safety", it can meet the NCPA five-star safety level and the North American IIHS Good safety level.

Of course, the most important thing is to take precautions before they happen. The fatigue reminder, anti-collision brakes, lane keeping, and steep slope descent equipped by the big dog are all very practical configurations for us on long-distance travel. It can be said that the big dog horse dog in the early 140,000 The version has more worries than the more than 200,000 joint venture SUVs.

After all, the big dog is a good partner who will accompany us for a lifetime, and must give us the most solid sense of security.

Danzhai Miao batik has been rated as a national intangible cultural heritage, among which Paimo Village is the most famous.
And today's Miao Nian is held at Paimo Village.
The village is built on top of a hill, and it looks like dozens of families. Most of the wooden buildings are dilapidated and have decades of history. There are also a few buildings that are newly built. Today's wooden buildings keep pace with the times, and bricks are generally used as maintenance materials on the ground floor to prevent fire and moisture.

Because of the large number of people who passed the Miao Nian, it took 2 hours to get close to the gate of the stockade, a legendary small mountain village surrounded by green mountains. Who would have thought that this is one of the birthplaces of batik and one of the places where many intangible cultural heritages are inherited.

After passing the gate of the village, the road was already blocked. It happened that there was a space on the side of the road that was not too spacious, but he dared not go any further. Good car, we also followed the crowd to the square deep in the stockade.

Miao Nian is an exclusive festival for the Miao people. Its ceremonies and participation are much higher than our New Year’s Eve. During the Miao Nian, the Miao people will wear Miao costumes and Miao Ying headdresses that are rarely worn on weekdays. More than a thousand silver head flowers and sparkling silver ornaments form the unique "Silver Sea" of Miao Nian. Then various festive activities are held to celebrate, such as: dancing Lusheng, bullfighting, birdfighting, cockfighting, and song competitions.

Lusheng dance means that someone leads the reed, and someone dances to the melody of the reed. The sheng players hold the reeds, and one person takes the lead. The leader plays a brisk rhythm, and then the other sheng players follow behind and walk in a circle in unison. The scene is very spectacular.

Not only the Miao nationality participated in the scene, but also Dong, Buyi, Shui and other ethnic groups participated. The costumes of each ethnic group are also different, and the language is also different, but the rhythm of music is the best baton. Jumped together with a sense of boundaries.

Facing the camera of strangers, they have no qualms, and they always take the initiative to smile

Singing and dancing are extremely lively and jubilant. The exquisite Miao costumes and the unique intangible cultural heritage performances of the Miao family make the scene extremely spectacular.

Although many young people usually go out to work, but every Miao Nian, they have to return to their hometown from other places to celebrate this festival. The number of people returning home even exceeds the Spring Festival. It provides a platform for people to meet and get to know each other. In this festival, many girls have found their ideal husband.

The Miao girls have a bright personality, and they look very lively, and they are also clever. If you have a young partner who is not married, you can go to the Miao village during the Miao year. There are no routines here, no dogs, and whoever you like. Take the initiative Pick up a conversation, maybe your happiness for the rest of your life will be hidden in a certain Miao village.

I was taking pictures of a Miao girl, when suddenly someone pulled the corner of my clothes from behind, and I turned around to see a little girl: "Brother, do you want to date my sister? I'm thirsty, buy me a bottle of Coke, so I can go Tell my sister."
"I have a sister in my family, but I can still buy you Coke, and let me take a picture of you after drinking Coke." I always respond like this, and those young guys who are interested bring snacks with them to please these "selling sisters" children.
In such festivals, the happiest thing for children is that they can buy snacks and toys that are not available on weekdays.

There are many folk activities in Miao Nian, among which the most popular is bullfighting, because this activity lasts for a long time and can only be seen in Miao Nian. Unlike Western bullfighting, Miao bullfighting is not a duel between man and bull. It's a duel between bulls and bulls, and when the point is reached, whoever escapes first will lose. Because it is also known as "Oriental civilization-style bullfighting."

The local Miao people brought their bullfighting bulls to the competition venue. These "fighting bulls" are buffaloes domesticated by the villagers who are good at fighting. Before the competition, the organizers numbered the participating buffaloes, and then the buffaloes were paired according to the numbers to compete in a "one-on-one" format, which was very lively.

As the descendants of Chi You, the Miao people are a nation that respects, loves and worships cattle, so why does the Miao people have the custom of bullfighting? It is said that it comes from an ancient legend. There was a flood in a Miao village, and the flood did not recede for a long time until two buffaloes fought on the flooded bank. Take a bull fight as a good omen.

The Miao family loves cattle. In order to prevent the cattle from being injured, the game is always played until the end. But when the cattle get angry, they are unwilling to leave the field. At this time, a large group of Miao boys will rush up and hold the cattle by their feet, so that The two cows are separated.

Different oxen represent different villages, and the ox that wins the fight will be called the ox king, bringing honor to the whole village and being loved and worshiped by people. Therefore, a good bullfighting bull is often regarded as the wealth of the whole village.

In addition to bullfighting, the Miao family also likes fighting birds, because Miao people have the habit of raising thrushes, and almost every family raises them. The traditional customs of the Miao compatriots, the scene was crowded with people, and nothing could get through.

When two male thrushes meet, first the feathers stand on end and they chirp provocatively, and then there is a duel to the death, just like two Kung Fu masters, showing their moves like dodging, biting, and clawing to the fullest. After many rounds of fighting, only the aggressive and durable can win the championship.

Before leaving the Miao Village, I took pictures of smiling faces to mark my trip to Southeast Guizhou. Driving a big dog from west Sichuan to southeast Guizhou has been traveling for so many years. Without a doubt, this is the most enjoyable time. The car has changed my way of traveling and my understanding of life. I love this kind of freedom in the world so much. Galloping, unrestrained wandering.
If one day you also want to take a freer and broader trip, please take your big dog and set off together.

conclusion

Beijing time, three o'clock in the morning,
I just finished writing the travel notes, and I still can’t get any sleepiness, and the happy figures in the music of singing and dancing are still in my mind.
There are many mountains there, and the people there are beautiful. Every picture can make me sit in a daze with a glass of wine.
Driving a Haval dog across the mountains, from one Miao village to another Dong village, a group of children ran into the sunset just like that, the laughter can blow the soul and leave imprints the most.
There is no brightly lit city bustling here, but only the unrepeatable beauty in the slump. Sit down and feel the artistic power of dance and singing, but the most heart-warming thing is the warm and simple way of dealing with people without a sense of boundaries, and some are just smiling faces And the humanistic aura that should exist universally.

Breaking through the sense of boundaries, let the Haval dog who is not afraid of the terrain lead me to gallop on the hills. There are clear and sultry rivers to wash away the wind and dust in the body, and there are moving songs like the sounds of nature to soothe the tiredness of the soul.

At the gates of the village, men in blue gowns blew various bamboo music and played bronze drums, and girls covered with silver ornaments held up horns and wine bowls and danced hand-waving.
There is no longer a sense of boundaries, and the atmosphere of joy is conveyed among people. Let's sing together, forget the morbid restraint, let's dance together, and enjoy the warm and warm time of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau together!