Climbing up the high mountains, speeding on the cliffs——Traveling through the 7 wall-mounted roads in the South Taihang

The peaks and valleys rise high, the villages are isolated on the top of the mountain,

A myth has traveled through the ages, and the power to break the wall has been chiseled in the red stone cliff.

Here are the peak walls rising abruptly from the plain.

The abyss of hundreds of feet blocks the footsteps of the mountain people from stepping out of the mountain,

The continuous mountains block the sight of people outside the mountains from observing it.

South Taihang, a place that has not been widely noticed by travelers.

Through the empty mountains and deep valleys, here is a unique self-driving route in China, and re-understand Taihang on this road of the brave:

Speeding on the cliff, to feel the excitement of crossing the peaks;

Climb up the high mountains to appreciate the grandeur of the majestic Taihang.

In June 2019, we spent 9 days driving and walking through 7 hanging wall roads from north to south (Pingshun Hongtiguan Hanging Road, Pingshun Rudi Hanging Road, Huixian Guoliang Hanging Road , Pingshun Chenjiayuan Guabi Highway, Lingchuan Kunshan Guabi Highway, Lingchuan Xiyagou Guabi Highway, Huixian Huilong Guabi Highway), passed a Taihang Tianlu (Xijingshan Tianlu), and visited Visited 11 Taihang ancient villages (Chi'an Village, Hongni Village, Xijingshan Village, Yuejiazhai, Xigou Village, Ruodi Village, Guoliang Village, Kunshan Village, Xiyagou Village, Huilong Village, Baodu Village), sightseeing Five Taihang scenic spots (Zhangjiawa Scenic Area, Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area, Wangmangling Scenic Area, Tianjie Mountain Scenic Area, Qiligou Scenic Area) have been established. This is a self-driving road known as the brave, and it is one of the most popular self-driving routes in China.

Day1: Handan—Chi’an Village—Hongqiqu Luositan—Hongtiguan Township—Hongtiguan Hangbi Highway—Hongni Village (260KM by car)

day2: Hongni Village - Taihang Tianlu - Xijingshan Village - Yuejiazhai (40KM by car)

Day3: Yuejiazhai—Hongtiguan Township—Dongsitou Township—Xigou Village—Guangbi Highway Observation Deck—Rudi Guabi Highway—Rudi Village (100KM by car)

Day4: Ha Staircase, Rudi Hanging Highway (12 on foot), Rudi Village—Zhangjiawa Scenic Area (5 on foot)—Ruodi Village (50KM by car)

day5: Ruodi Village - Shibanyan Town - Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area - Guoliang Hangbi Highway (walking 3 highways) - Guoliang Village (110KM by car)

day6: Guoliang Village - Chenjiayuan Hanging Wall Highway - Wangmangling Scenic Area (95KM by car)

day7: Wangmangling Scenic Area—Kunshan Hangbi Highway—Kunshan Village—Xiyagou Hangbi Highway—Xiyagou Village—Tianjieshan Scenic Area (50KM by car)

day8: Huanfeng Gallery (10 kilometers on foot), Tianjie Mountain Scenic Area—Huilong Guabi Highway—Huilong Village—Baligou Scenic Area—Baodu Village (8 kilometers on foot) (30KM by car)

day9: Baodu Village - Baligou Scenic Area (10 kilometers on foot) - Handan (260KM by car)

Self-driving tips:

Clothes: The temperature in mountainous areas is 5°C lower than that in plains, so keep warm moderately.

Diet: Farm meals in the north, 100 yuan per person per day.

Accommodation: Taihang Farmhouse, RMB 60-100 per day. There is no need to make a reservation for the accommodation at the destination, and the rooms are sufficient.

Road conditions: Cars can pass the whole journey, and the county and township roads in Pingshun will be reconstructed according to the standard of tourist roads (completed in 2019). Xijingshan Tianlu and Guabishangao Road in Kunshan are narrow, requiring careful driving and not suitable for wide and long vehicles. The destinations are not far apart, so pay due attention to refueling.

Navigation: The route can be adjusted according to the situation. Navigate according to the itinerary node while driving, and go to Xijingshan Tianlu to choose the cycling navigation mode.

Hanging wall road access: Hongtiguan, Ruodi, and Chenjiayuan hanging wall roads are free to drive. Kunshan and Xiyagou Hangbi are in Wangmangling Scenic Area, Guoliang Hangbi is in Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area, Huilong Hangbi is in Tianjie Mountain Scenic Area, and the 4 scenic hanging wall roads can be experienced by scenic car, such as entering by car. Subject to special approval by the scenic spot. Guo Liang's wall-mounted road has strict restrictions, and it is the only wall-mounted road that we have not been able to enter by car.

Medicines: easy to bruise in mountainous areas, you can carry disinfection and protection items.

Seasonal scenery: rain and fog in summer, colorful leaves in late autumn, and snow in winter.

Line evaluation: Scarcity 5, Excitement 5, Wilderness 4, Ornamental 4, Comfort 3.

day1: 2019.6.16

Today’s trip starts from the ancient city of Handan, crosses Fukouxing, one of the Eight Taixing Xings, and enters the Taihang Mountains to the west, pursues the two Taihang spirits in Chi’an and Shunshicheng in Shexian County, and then crosses the first hanging wall road in the itinerary— ——The most wild Hongtiguan Hangbi Highway, feel the magic and vicissitudes among the high mountains, and finally arrive at Hongni Village standing on the edge of the cliff.

Hezhang Township, at the junction of the three provinces of Shanxi, Hebei and Henan, is the confluence of the clear and turbid rivers.

The Qingzhang River runs through Shexian County, Hebei Province from north to south, and the Zhuozhang River runs across Pingshun, Shanxi Province from west to east. They converge in Hezhang Township and are collectively called Zhang River, and then flow eastward into the Haihe River system.

Along the two rivers above Hezhang Township, there are two birthplaces of Taihang spirit in China: the anti-Japanese battlefield of the 129th Division of the Eighth Route Army and the famous Hongqi Canal. The 129th Division during the Anti-Japanese War was like an iron wall, a symbol of tenacity and unyielding.

This tall and wide city gate is the image gate of Shexian County in the old area, also known as General Gate. The bright red color is the basic background color of Shexian County culture and global tourism. The hundred-mile scenic belt formed by the Qingzhang River is called "Taihang Red River Valley".

Nine thousand soldiers entered She County, and three hundred thousand troops left Taihang. The sweet water of the Zhang River nourished the army of Liu and Deng, allowing them to accumulate meritorious service here. In the end, this army with outstanding military exploits stepped into the gate of New China with a strong lineup of 2 marshals and 364 generals. From Jiangjun Gate to Jiangjun Avenue in Chi'an Village, there are several kilometers of mountain sculpture corridors, with vivid pictures, recreating the heroic scene of Chief Liu Deng leading the 129th Division to fight against the Japanese in Shexian County for five years.

Beishan, the former site of the 129th Division Headquarters in Chi’an Village, is Jiangjun Ridge where Deng Xiaoping’s inscription was written. Because the ashes of Liu Xu and many 129th Division generals were scattered here, it has become the place where the most generals of the Republic are buried besides Babao Mountain in Beijing. These generals gathered together in Chi'an back then, and their souls returned to Taihang after death.

Hongqi Canal is a man-made Tianhe River hanging on the cliff of Taihang Mountain. In the 10 years of the 1960s, poor farmers in Lin County split 1,250 hills, dug through 180 tunnels, erected 150 aqueducts, dug 25 million earthworks, and built main canals, main canals, sub-main canals, The Hongqi Canal irrigation system with a total length of 4,000 kilometers of branch canals, bucket canals and agricultural canals, Premier Zhou once proudly told international friends: "There are two miracles in New China, one is the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge, and the other is the Linxian Hongqi Canal."

Everyone knows this feat in Lin County, Henan, but most people don't know that the head of the Hongqi Canal and one-half of the main canal are in Pingshun, Changzhi, Shanxi. At that time, Secretary Yang Gui of Lin County, Henan led tens of thousands of migrant workers to open canals. They lived in farmhouses in Shanxi, dug mountains in Shanxi, and diverted the Zhuozhang River in Shanxi. The head of the Hongqi Canal is under Houbiduan in Shicheng, Pingshun, where people from Lin County set up a dam to intercept the water, leading the water of the Zhang River into the Hongqi Canal. We walked up the canal dam, on one side was the water of Hongqi Canal, and on the other side was the Zhuozhang River, which was more than ten meters deep. Although the canal dam made of red stone was extremely strong, walking on the long canal dam still made my eyes dizzy , The legs are weak.

Hongti Pass is an ancient Shanxi-Yuan road that goes east to Henan. It is said that when the Japanese invaders came here to inspect the terrain, they were still hesitant to look up at the majestic mountains. A few people who wanted to climb were also thrown by militiamen with rolling stones and ran away with their heads in their arms. Today's Guguan has fallen asleep, and its traffic function has been replaced by the hanging wall road ahead, turning it into a nostalgic and fitness walking tour. Although Guanzhai was full of banners, few people searched for it. We were in a hurry and passed by in the twilight.

Finally, I saw the entrance of the Hongtiguan Hangbi Highway, the hundreds of feet high cliff, and the dark cave, which made people shudder.

The construction of the Hongtiguan Guabi Highway started in 1968. People who were tired of the rugged mountain road decided to build a road that could go to the county seat by car. Out of their yearning for a new life, they gathered together to make plans, and under the leadership of the secretaries and village chiefs, 800 villagers brought their own bedding, set up stoves and set up tents in the mountains. In two years, they used primitive tools such as iron drills and hammers to dig 5 culverts, cut down 7 mountains, and filled 3 large ditches to open up the 12-kilometer-long Yazhong Highway.

This is a wild hanging wall, with steep cliffs above the sky, deep canyons and abysses at the foot, the cave is dark, the cave walls are hideous, the road surface is potholed, mixed with sand, gravel and mud, and the wheels are running over, full of buzzing noises dusty. When we drove the Guabi Highway for the first time, we experienced the magic and vicissitudes of the Guabi Highway in the bumps.

This wall-hanging road has been compiled as County Road 670, also known as the Zhanghe Line. The width of the road surface can ensure wrong traffic, and there are protective fences on the edge of the cliff. There is no problem with driving safety. fetal.

Drive slowly in the cave, and through the side windows, you can see the exit of the Hongtiguan Tunnel of the Changping Expressway at the foot of the mountain. This tunnel with a total length of 13,200 meters ranks sixth in the country.

The three generations of channels are in the same frame. This is an embarrassing scene. The hooves of mules and horses in the past, the sound of hammers cutting mountains and rocks 50 years ago, and the roar of high-speed tunnel excavation machines 10 years ago, seemed to reverberate in the mountains and valleys. Although their audio varies, all are the strongest voices of their time. The ancient road on the top of the mountain has long been lost in the grass, and the wall-hanging road is almost abandoned due to the high-speed connection. Only the tunnel bridge at the foot leads to the outside of the mountain at high speed, connecting with the road network extending in all directions to form a Tianqu Avenue.

day2: 2019.6.17

Today's journey, first in Hongni Village, carefully appreciate this artistic cliff village, then climb up the mountain along the cliff edge, take a thrilling Taihang Heavenly Road, and experience the tragic migration of the descendants of heroes in order to survive, Watch a "cliff primary school" in Xijingshan, and finally arrive at Yuejiazhai, a family outside the sky in the depths of Taihang.

This is the viewing window of the Hongni Hotel where you stay overnight. The Hongni River falls through the window into the canyon. If you are lucky, you can see the eastern morning glow at dawn after the rain.

The water of the Hongni River in the dry season becomes a calm lake beside the village. The village and mountains are reflected in the water, giving the rough Taihang mountain village a little bit of the beauty of a water town in the south of the Yangtze River.

On the side of the road 300 to 500 meters opposite the inn, it is the place to watch the iconic landscape of Hongni Village. Hongni Village is known as the "Ancient Village on the Cliff". Viewed here, the entire villa seems to be hanging on a 100-meter-high cliff.

The soaring river water in the rainy season will pour down on the cliff, forming a huge waterfall that is wide, towering, and thunderous. Therefore, people gave the mountain village the nice name "Hongni".

Hongni Village is a place with sentimental feelings. In history, it was a post station for merchants on the Jinyu Ancient Road. Today, it is a traditional ancient village listed on the list for protection. The Minghui Master Pagoda in the village is the treasure of Hongni’s town and village. It is the stupa of Master Minghui in Haihuiyuan. This original square stone pagoda from the Five Dynasties period is the only one left in my country. Exemplary work.

For road construction, mountain people always seem to be full of passion. During the two days in Pingshun this time, almost all the roads they passed were being demolished and rebuilt. They wanted to transform all the rural roads in the whole area into beautiful tourist roads.

The mountain road from Hongni Village to Yuejiazhai via Xijing Mountain is called Taihang Tianlu. The road over several mountain ridges winds and twists with 10 turns and 18 turns, and the level of thrills has reached a new height.

This is a simple winding mountain road more than 20 kilometers long. The whole journey is almost one and a half car widths, especially the towering cliffs on both sides of the road and the unprotected hundreds of feet of cliffs, which make people's vision extremely scary. The most worrying thing is that when encountering a car coming ahead, one side needs to retreat to a slightly wider place and miss the car, which will be more difficult to control and full of danger. Before we set off, we didn't expect that this road would be so steep. We were trembling all the way, forcing ourselves not to let our hands go weak and our eyes not to squint.

High mountains, deep valleys, steep bends and steep slopes are the natural test grounds for testing driving skills. The locals say: You are ashamed to call yourself an old driver if you have not traveled the Taihang Tianlu. Driving on Tianlu not only tests driving skills, but also mentality. People who are afraid of heights should go carefully.

The infinite scenery is on the dangerous peak. Although the road to Xijing Mountain is steep, it is a good place to view the sea of ​​clouds in summer and colorful leaves in autumn. It is also a landscape gallery that painters and photographers are obsessed with.

Xijingshan Village on the top of the mountain is composed of 12 natural villages scattered around. The reason why we are here is mainly because of a school that has attracted widespread media attention, a "cliff primary school" on the edge of a cliff at an altitude of 1,400 meters, consisting of 1 teacher and 3 students.

During lunch, I asked the owner of the inn about the school. The owner pointed to the two photos and the girls around him, and said that her three daughters were the three students mentioned on the Internet. The eldest and the second have gone to the boarding school at the foot of the mountain to study, and the only student left in the cliff primary school is the youngest daughter. Unfortunately, the teacher went down the mountain for the weekend, but the key to the school is in her hand.

The playground and classrooms are built on the edge of the Baizhang cliff. The children in the mountain don’t think it is dangerous, but the people outside the mountain are surprised. Whether they are here for a special trip or people passing by for tourism, they will go to this cliff primary school to see the teachers and children. . Little student Shi Peiyao sits behind the desk like this every day, listening to the teacher's one-on-one lectures. Two years later, she will also go to the boarding school at the bottom of the mountain to study. If there are no younger children on the mountain, then "cliff primary school" may become history.

Stopping and stopping all the way, it took 6 hours to finish the 35 kilometers of Taihang Tianlu, and drove into the mountain gate of Yuejiazhai. Looking far away, an ancient stone city village with the banner of Yuejia is hidden in the embrace of mountains on all sides. middle. Yuejiazhai is built on the fault platform of the mountain, and the houses are built in layers, which is magnificent and magnificent. It is known as "Taihang Village in the Air" by the outside world.

The villagers of Yuejiazhai are descendants of the hero Yue Fei. They fled from Tangyin, Henan Province for fear of implicating the nine clans after Yue Fei was murdered. Later generations kept their identities incognito, known as "Xiashihao" to the outside world, and "Yuejiazhai" internally, to show that they will not forget the heroes of the predecessors, and look forward to serving the country loyally one day.

This is an amazing stone kingdom. The descendants of heroes from the plains learned how to open mountains and split rocks, learned to build houses with stones, and built an alternative home on the top of Taihang Mountain.

The most unique feature of the Zhaizi is the stone slabs on the roof. This kind of stone slab house is sturdy, shelters from wind and rain, cools off the heat and cold, and is naturally integrated with the surrounding environment. It is the most beautiful scenery in the Taihang Mountains.

This is a small courtyard with 300-year-old slate houses. Firewood is piled up in the corner and sundries are placed around. The house looks old and low, and the yard is full of vicissitudes. Time seems to have stopped. Only the busy figure of the owner can continue With the vitality of the ancient courtyard. This is the place where generations of Yuejiazhai have lived and thrived, and it should also be the most valuable tourism resource of Yuejiazhai.

This thousand-year-old palm tree has the status of a god. According to legend, Yue Lin, the third son of Yue Fei, fled here. In a dream, the tree turned into a white-haired old man: I am here, and the descendants of the Yue family are here. After Yue Lin suddenly realized that this was to bless Zhongliang, he ordered the palm tree to be strictly cared for. For thousands of years, the people in the village have survived countless wars and famines safely. The people in the village are grateful for their kindness and respect for their virtues.

This old supply and marketing cooperative is a signature attraction of Yuejiazhai. The owner of the small shop, Yue Wanzeng and his wife, are old pioneers in the county, and the wall is full of certificates recording their life trajectory for more than 50 years. The mission of purchasing and selling on behalf of small shops has long since come to an end, and the current role is mainly to display and supplemented by sales. This photo of old man Yue Wanzeng is an award-winning work of a photographer. The old man likes to hang it in a prominent position on the wall.

The hermit peace of Yuejiazhai for thousands of years has been broken, and the Yuejia flag has long been fluttering in the wind. With the expansion of popularity, people in the village vacated the idle slate houses one after another, and the cliff dwelling and sister-in-law restaurant full of mountain colors have become board and lodging inns for tourists. Times are changing, and this kind of original ecological village is already a scarce resource. The leaders of the city are planning the blueprint for the development of Yuejiazhai with foresight.

day3: 2019.6.18

Today's journey, descending from the west line of Taihang Tianlu, went to Xigou Village to visit a century-old man, listened to her 70-year life story, and then overlooked a row of cave windows cut into the cliff on the top of the mountains , driving through the second hanging wall kilometer - the most ornamental road at the bottom of the hanging wall, and finally down to a beautiful mountain village as deep as the bottom of a well.

Although the west line of Taihang Tianlu is surrounded by mountains and mountains, it is much safer than the east line. Now the west line is being widened and asphalted, and China and Pakistan will be able to pass through in the future. The east and west lines are distinguished and positioned very well. One is a wild adventure road, and the other is a tourist road for enjoying the scenery.

Xigou Village became famous in the 1940s and 1950s around the founding of the Republic. At that time, Li Shunda, a peasant party member, set up a rural mutual aid cooperative. The young woman Shen Jilan chanted the slogan of equal pay for equal work for men and women. The idea of ​​equal pay for equal work advocated by Shen Jilan was written into the first constitution, and Li Shunda and Shen Jilan were called "Xigou Twin Heroes".

Shen Jilan is one of the 60 most influential national model workers in New China. With 70 years of experience as a model worker, she was elected as a deputy to the National People's Congress for all 13 sessions of the Republic. She is known as a "living fossil" that witnessed the Chinese National Congress system.

The old man Shen Jilan received us warmly. At the age of 90, he gave people the impression of being healthy, quick thinking, kind and amiable. The old man enthusiastically told us about the difficulties of starting a business in the past, recalled the past when he was interviewed by the leaders, and told us to listen to the party and follow the party. Welcome to her hometown for sightseeing.

It was an honor to meet this legendary old man during our travels. Three months later, the old man received the National Medal of the Republic from Chairman Xi as everyone expected. One year later, he was shocked to learn that the old man died of illness while attending the National People's Congress. Xigou Village bid farewell to the era of Li Shen and Shuangjie.

Looking at the hanging wall road on the cliff from a high place is even more shocking. This viewing platform on the Shiyu Line is an excellent place to appreciate the appearance of the hanging wall road at the bottom of the cliff. In the middle of the 200-meter-high cliff, there are 39 side windows of the tunnel hanging on the wall at the bottom of the tunnel. Some of them are like full stops, and some are like dashes. The direction on the cliff.

The hanging wall road is a strange road form created by Taixing people. The local people call it "hole" or "tunnel". Raw tool materials such as hammer, steel, brazing soil and explosives (no machinery, no funds), excavation along the edge of the cliff (no strength to penetrate the mountain), opening side windows (dumping waste slag during construction, and using it for daylighting after operation), benefiting the people of the village (by car out of the mountain).

It took 15 years to complete the feat. At that time, 50 strong men in the village formed the road construction vanguard. They made their own explosives, prepared their own tools, and brought their own dry food. , During the long road construction process of Yugong Yishan, more than 800 people from the whole village went to the road construction battlefield, and 5 villagers gave their lives in exchange for this 1,526-meter-long wall-hanging road.

Today is a good day. The loudspeakers in the village at the foot of the mountain are playing festive music, and more than a dozen cars with red fronts are driving out of the mountain through the hanging wall road.

This garden-like Judi Village is located in the southeast corner of Pingshun County, and below the village is Henan. Surrounded by mountains, the mountain village is like being at the bottom of a well and being covered, hence the uncommon name of the village. There is Tianji Mountain on the top of Ruodi Village, and Wangxiangyan at the bottom. There are Tianpu Gorge and Guabi Highway in the village. The poor mountain village in the past has become a "famous village with national characteristic landscape tourism" relying on the mountains and water resources. The local area is integrating nearby tourism resources, and their ambitions are lofty. Their short-term goal is to surpass Yuntai Mountain, their mid-term goal is to catch up with Jiuzhaigou, and their ultimate goal is to enter the first phalanx of world tourist attractions.

The Xiangyun Lake in the village is fresh, refined and crystal clear. It is a beautiful lake formed by a dam at the bottom of the village to intercept the mountain spring.

Through the suspension bridge on the lake, you can reach the other side of the lake. The house built on the cliff is called Cliff House. Its inner wall is the cliff rock. These alternative wooden huts are famous far and wide, and they are a good place to experience cave dwelling and feel the wildness.

In fact, the cliff hut is not necessarily comfortable to live in, the rock walls will emit cold air. Villager Lao Zhang’s Taihang Valley Farm is very grand, definitely not inferior to the three-star hotels in the city, and the price is very high. You can live in a luxury standard room with a viewing platform for about 100 yuan.

Lao Zhang's fish cooking skills are really good, and the quality, color, taste, shape and utensils are excellent.

day4: 2019.6.19

Today, I want to be a donkey friend, to climb the "Ha Staircase", the way out of the mountain in the past, to experience the hardships of the people in the mountains; Go to the top of the Taihang Mountains and look at the North China Plain in the east.

If you want to find the answer to why the Rudi people risked their lives to build the wall-hanging road, you have to walk the "Hello Ladder". The "Ha Staircase" was excavated in the early Qing Dynasty. There are 15,000 steps from the bottom of the village to the Moon Bridge on the top of the mountain. It was the most convenient way for villagers to get out of the bottom of the mountain in the past.

Looking at this tall mountain, looking at the looming, nearly vertical trail on the cliff, I couldn't help but tremble in my heart. After confirming to Lao Zhang again that there would be no danger, we made up our minds and started climbing. The mountain road is steep and long. We climbed with heavy loads and panted all the way. Only then did we know the origin of the "Hello Ladder", the difficulty of the mountain people's travel, and the reason why the Rodi people risked their lives to dig tunnels.

All the way of the "Ha Staircase" is also an observation deck to appreciate the appearance of the hanging wall road. Compared with the observation deck I visited yesterday, although the height is much lower, the distance is closer, and you can see the situation inside the cave more clearly.

It takes 3 hours to reach the Moon Bridge, where the end points of the two mountain roads, the Huabi Road and the Harbin Staircase, meet. In the past, it took 3 hours for people in the mountains to walk out of the mountain, but now it only takes 10 minutes to drive through the wall. The scene observed through the Moon Bridge is a symbolic view of Rangdi, but today's picture lacks some floating clouds, the color of trees or the chilling winter snow. The stones in the upper left corner look like a camel, a rooster and a domestic dog. The locals say that they respectively represent the hard work, trustworthiness and loyalty of the Rodi people.

Viewed horizontally as ridges and laterally as peaks, the mountains around the village are also in various forms. The villagers say that there are many mountain gods protecting the bottom of the village.

The bottom wall hanging should never be so low-key. Whether it is from the perspective of driving experience or appreciation, it should only rank second after Kunshan among the seven wall hangings. Yesterday, driving through the hanging wall at the bottom of the bottom was just a quick look at the flowers. Today, I will go on foot again to see the masterpieces of the people of the bottom of the bottom.

The cave road winds and turns along the mountain and draws an elegant arc, and the light from the irregular side windows creates different light and shadows in the cave.

The side windows are like picture frames, incorporating the magnificent Taihang peaks.

Although the road condition of the entire tunnel is excellent, there will be dangers. One-third of the road surface has collapsed, and the iconic big rock on the top of the cave with the words "The Road into the Clouds" has also collapsed.

Lao Zhang is a good man. Seeing that we hadn't returned at 1:00 noon, he drove to the entrance of the cave to pick us up.

I went to Zhangjiaao in the afternoon. I knew that it was a place that painters love to go to. Lao Zhang said that there is nothing to see but a pile of stones. When we arrived here in the evening, we felt that it was too late. This place only takes a whole day. Time is also not enough. Here is a large piece of stone, neatly arranged in rows, and there is a passage in the middle. The stone is very white and clean, as if it has been washed with water.

Here is a group of cliffs standing thousands of feet high. Some plank roads jump to the top of the cliff and some stretch into the abyss. The wall blocks the view, and the majesty and magnificence of Taihang Mountain is shocking.

The winding mountain road in the distance is probably the Taihang Tianlu in the Henan Shibanyan area. Although it looks like it is circling up and down, it is a scenic road after all. Compared with the Xijingshan Tianlu, its height difference, wildness and thrilling degree are still a little worse. Extremely large.

Eight hundred miles away, even if you jump here, the Beixiong scenery that dominates the peaks is formed. From the pavilions on the top of Zhangjiaao Mountain, you can overlook the east, and you can have a panoramic view of the Henan Great Plains. The amount of exercise today is a bit too much. The hike should be close to 20 kilometers, and we are all climbing mountains. We are not professional travel friends, and our legs feel heavy, but what we have experienced is an experience that has never been experienced before. Overall, it is still a kind of joy and excitement. state of exhaustion.

day5: 2019.6.20

Today's journey is from the high mountains of Shanxi to the plains of Henan, all the way southward to Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area, and walk through the third hanging wall road - the most famous Guoliang Hanging Wall Road. On the cliff, people ask the warriors of the past The reason for splitting the mountain to open the road.

After leaving Rudi, you will step into the border of Linxian County, Henan Province. Along the way, there is the famous Taihang Grand Canyon scenic spot, and the birthplace of the pole spirit - Shibanyan Supply and Marketing Cooperative. This is a place where passing tourists must enter.

The 100 kilometers from Rudi to Guoliang are mostly driven on the plains and arrive at the parking lot of the visitor center below Guoliang. It is already lunch time. The three-story Yangyang Hotel next to it has become our accommodation here. The hanging banner reads that free parking, food and lodging is 28 yuan per person, which is the result of competition with Guoliang Village on the mountain.

The famous Guo Liang is called Wanxian Mountain Scenic Area. The stone pillars on the distant mountains are shaped like immortals standing on the top of the mountain. This is the origin of the name of Wanxian Mountain.

At present, the tourism resources in this area are under the unified management of Xinxiang Nantaihang Tourism Company, and Guo Liang Hanging Wall is just one of the many scenic spots in the scenic spot. Among the 7 major hanging wall roads in the South Taihang, Guo Liang, Kunshan, Xiyagou, and Huilong are surrounded by scenic spots, and Guo Liang is the only hanging wall that we did not drive into during our trip, even if you Guo Liang, who wants to live on the mountain, can only take a scenic car to the entrance of the cave, and then walk through Guoliang Cave into the village with his luggage.

The vehicles that occasionally pass through the cave are the villagers on the mountain or the vehicles inside the scenic spot.

Without the vehicles going up and down, tourists seem to take a leisurely stroll. Compared with the other 6 wall-mounted roads, the red rocks make Guo Liangdong appear more "luxury", the wide side windows make the cave bright, and the bustling crowds make Guo Liangdong on the cliff less scary, but people The inherent cognition of the wildness and precipitousness of the hanging wall road is missing a lot.

A movie "Raise Your Hands" made Chinese people know Guo Liang, and also know that there is such a strange road in the Taihang Mountains. Near the house on the cliff, there are several viewing platforms where you can appreciate the appearance of Guo Liangdong. In the movie, Guo Da drove the bullock cart out of the cave, and this is where the scene was filmed.

The people of Guo Liang on the top of the mountain have been traveling on the sheep road since ancient times, climbing up and down the ladder, and have suffered from road blockages for generations. In 1972, a commando team composed of 13 strong men raised their fists against the wall and vowed to cut through the cliff. The villagers sold the goats and yams and bought them into steel brazing and hammers. They hammered the fibers and chiseled rocks to open holes, and they just created a cliff corridor on the Red Rock Cliff.

There are only two or three strong men left in those days. They sit in front of the old house all day long, watching the men and women coming from afar, and showing off their feats to outsiders. When asked about the reason for opening the road, the old man Shen Chunfu, one of the thirteen warriors, just said softly: no more bachelors in the village.

day6: 2019.6.21

Today’s journey starts with looking at the hanging wall in Shanxi in Henan, then drives through the fourth hanging wall—the most beautiful Chenjiayuan hanging wall road, and finally climbs to Wangmang Mountain to enjoy the mountainous peaks surrounded by green seas in the Shanxi-Henan border area.

Re-entering the Wanxian Mountain Scenic Spot requires filing at the ticket office the day before, and it takes 40 minutes to take two sections of the scenic spot car to reach Danfen Village in the depths of the scenic spot. Danfen Village is very quiet and quiet. Many old people in the city spend their summer here. They eat and live with the villagers, often staying for a month or two.

I came to Danfen mainly to see the appearance of the Guabi Highway in Kunshan, Shanxi. In the middle of the 500-meter-high mountain cliff on the opposite side, the side windows of 148 tunnels lined up in a row are very spectacular. It is like a train. We are struggling to climb to the top of the mountain, which makes us look forward to tomorrow's crossing.

Originally, Guoliang’s hanging wall and Kunshan’s hanging wall were just two mountains facing each other, connected by a few kilometers of mountain roads in between, but Guoliang Scenic Area prohibited private cars from entering, so we had to detour for 100 kilometers to Wangmangling, but we would pass by Chenjiayuan on the way It is a wall-mounted road, so this detour is also a reasonable route.

Chenjiayuan’s hanging wall is different from other hanging walls. It was not built by farmers spontaneously. If Nantaihang is one of the six hanging walls, then Chenjiayuan is excluded. In ancient times, there were sheep intestines hanging on the cliffs, the cliffs were thousands of feet high, the mountains were high and the sky was narrow, and people died in the passage. In 1968, it was invested by the state to run through Shanxi and Henan, which is called the road of war preparation. In 1990, the state invested in the expansion again, and it was called Linghui Road, which is the provincial traffic artery between the two provinces. I don’t know what kind of conflict the Jinyu brothers had. In the middle of the highway at the provincial border, we saw a roadblock that only small cars could barely pass. Maybe it was because they were afraid that heavy vehicles would damage their beautiful tourist roads.

The hanging wall of Chenjiayuan is known as the most beautiful, because it is excavated on the edge of the reservoir. The hanging wall on the water, which reflects the cliffs and clear lake water, should be a beautiful and magnificent feeling. However, due to the drought this year, the reservoir’s The water level is too low.

It also has the reputation of a waterfall corridor. It is said that in the rainy season, there will be a waterfall falling straight down at the entrance of the cave. Unfortunately, I didn't see it, but I saw a beautiful water curtain cave in the cave.

The most amazing thing about Chenjiayuan's hanging wall is that it has two floors. Since no authoritative explanation can be found, it is only inferred that the wall-mounted road that was originally built was low and narrow and could only pass small vehicles. In order to sell Wujin to Henan with heavy trucks, Shanxi dug the original cave. Deepen and widen, there may be hidden dangers in the tens of meters old hole in front of you, so you can only choose to re-dug it under its side.

At an altitude of 1,700 meters, Wangmang Mountain is the highest peak in the South Taihang. The sea of ​​clouds, strange peaks, pines, and waterfalls here form the most magnificent natural landscape in the eight hundred-mile Taihang. We entered the scenic spot not to view the scenery, but to cross the two hanging wall roads of Kunshan and Xiyagou under the jurisdiction of the scenic spot. The hanging wall of Kunshan is to the north of the main peak, and the hanging wall of Xiyagou is to the south of the main peak. Yingpan Village in the scenic area is currently doing tourism reception, and we chose to live in the Yuebin Hotel.

Looking north from Wangmang Ridge, you can see the majestic Taihang Mountains. The building on the right below is Danfen Village, which I went to in the morning. The vague road on the left is the hanging wall of Kunshan Mountain, and the saddle in the middle is the Shanxi-Yuan boundary ditch.

Looking at it from another angle, the hanging wall in Kunshan looks like a trace cut by a knife on the mountain, and jeeps are preparing to drive to Kunshan.

day7: 2019.6.22

Today's journey is to first cross the fifth hanging wall road - the most exciting Kunshan hanging wall road, visit a village-level "museum" in Kunshan Village, and then cross the sixth hanging wall - the most shocking tin road. Yagou hanging wall road, learn about the blueprint for the future development of Xiyagou in the village, and finally enter the Tianjie Mountain Scenic Area in Henan.

Kunshan is a small mountain village hanging on the mountainside and floating among the clouds. There are cliffs above and below. In the past, there was only one winding mountain path dug in the crevices of the cliff leading to Shanxi. The mountain road is steep and only young and strong men can climb it. How many people died at the bottom of the cliff with a drop of 300 meters.

Kunshan people did not rashly declare war on Dashan like Guo Liangren and Xiya people next to them, but waited patiently for a good time to come. In 1992, Shanxi implemented the "Village to Village" project, and decided to open a channel for Kunshan villagers to go south to Shanxi in the north of Wangmangling. Otherwise, Kunshan's sense of belonging to Shanxi would be weakened, and villagers could easily go to Henan through Guoliang Cave.

Kunshan Guabi was excavated around this 500-meter-high cliff. Although it was invested by the government, it was also done by villagers. People first fixed the cables on the top of the mountain, hoisted people to the mountainside to dig out the side windows and working surfaces, and then a large number of people entered the side windows to start construction. The terrain was complex and extremely difficult, but due to the leadership of the government, it took only 2 years to quickly pass through. The 7-kilometer Guabi Highway in Kunshan includes a 3-kilometer tunnel. This 3-kilometer tunnel and its 148 side windows rank first among all the Guabi roads.

Kunshan Wall is famous for being dangerous, narrow, short, and steep. The driving experience is the most exciting. The entry model is strictly limited, and the length, width, and height cannot exceed 4.3M, 1.8M, and 1.8M. The narrow cave road is only one car wide. If you lose your mind, you will scratch the protruding rocks on both sides. The slope inside the cave is very steep. When encountering cars, all the uplink vehicles will reverse to the outside of the cave. The low place is like a mouse drilling a hole. Vehicles that are too high will get stuck. This hanging wall should indeed strictly control vehicles, otherwise it will become a 7-kilometer-long parking lot, and even if the traffic police from the whole county are called in, there will be no help.

The ornamental value of the hanging wall in Kunshan is also particularly wonderful. The exterior is like a majestic landscape scroll; the interior is like a beautiful gallery composed of 148 picture frames.

The connection of Kunshan’s hanging walls connects the four hanging walls of Huilong, Xiya, Kunshan and Guoliang gathered on the border of Shanxi and Henan provinces with the three major scenic spots of Tianjie Mountain, Wangmangling and Wanxian Mountain, forming a thrilling and exciting landscape. Travel landscape.

The state of Kunshan is obviously not as good as that of Ruo Di and Guo Liang, which have developed through tourism. The main reason is the lack of resources and the remoteness. Although some inns have been built in the village to receive tourists, most of them are old and low-rise. houses.

This privately run small museum is very interesting. They are all production and living tools used by the villagers for a hundred years, and many of them were used to dig and hang walls. It is a window for outsiders to understand Kunshan's past.

"There is the barrier of Madongling in the east, the barrier of Huashan in the west, the dangerous peak of Wangmangling in the north, and the confrontation of Qingfeng in the south. The place between the four mountains is called Xiyagou. Because of the dangerous terrain and dead roads, there are occasional strong The chivalrous man risked his life to go in and out of the cliffs" - this is the Xiyagou described in "Lingchuan County Chronicles".

This is a wild hanging wall, completely opposite to Guo Liangdong's Hongyan sunny day and crowds of people cheering. It is the taste that the hanging wall road should have in our minds. Silent mountains, rough tunnels, 36 hideous side windows revealing dim light, jagged rocks with traces from the opening of the mountain, looking up at a thousand-foot high cliff, overlooking a hundred-foot abyss, it is both exciting and shocking .

The biggest feature of Xiyagou’s hanging wall is that the cave is winding and spiraling up. From the side window of the tunnel, it can be seen that it has three floors on a cliff, in a "Zigzag" shape until it reaches the top of Wangmangling Mountain.

Getting out of the mountains has been the dream of generations of Xiyagou people, and their road construction activities began in 1962. It is said that the secretary of the Lingchuan County Party Committee rode to the edge of the cliff that year and threw a kraft paper bag to the bottom of the valley. The village party secretary opened it and found that there was 3,000 yuan in it and the words "road construction" were written on it. From then on, the Xiya people began to declare war on the mountain. .

In the past ten years, he built "sheep road", "donkey road" and "wolf road" successively, and later tried to penetrate Wangmangling to build a "car tunnel", but finally lost the first battle due to lack of strength. Twenty years later, the people of Xiya fought against the mountain again, and all the villagers were united. At the cost of 2 sacrifices, 5 serious injuries, 1 life-long disability, and all the property of the village, they finally carved a 7.5-kilometer hanging wall on the cliff. wall highway. The car drove into the ravine, and the whole village, old and young, burst into tears. The 30-year feat of building roads by the people of Xiyagou alarmed the Party Central Committee, and the People's Daily published an article calling him "Contemporary Foolish Old Man".

Xiyagou Guabi Highway is the pioneer of the Taihang Guabi Highway and the only rural road included in the "China Highway Spectrum". It is listed in the 60 landmarks of New China together with famous buildings such as Tiananmen and Bird's Nest. The fact that a country road can gain such a status may be due to the tragic color and the tenacious wall-breaking spirit contained in this road. The photo of Zhao Quanniu, then the village party secretary hanging in the air, is shocking. The village cadres were like this back then, and whoever was the leader was a member of the Death Squad.

Xiyagou, which used to be closed, has already become a well-known leisure and vacation spot. This planning map in the brigade headquarters indicates that Xiyagou will have a more exciting future.

Wangmang Ridge and Tianjie Mountain in Shanxi and Henan provinces share the same gate of the scenic spot. The Yongle farmhouse where we stayed overnight is on the edge of Huilong Grand Canyon. The boss said that his home is a good place to watch the sea of ​​clouds.

day8: 2019.6.22

Today's trip starts from Qingfeng Pass, walks around Laoyeding for 8 kilometers, enjoys the beautiful scenery of Taihang at 360 degrees, drives through the seventh hanging wall road - the most gorgeous Huilong hanging wall road, and abandons the car in Baligou On foot, visit Baodu Village, the only Taihang air station in Shanxi that is not open to traffic.

Laoyeding on Tianjie Mountain, 1570 meters above sea level, is said to be the world's first iron roof. It is an isolated and raised mountain with an 8-kilometer trail around the mountain. It is a 360-degree viewing gallery of Taihang's magnificent scenery: looking south at the Yellow River's nine bends, looking north at the beautiful peaks of Taihang, and looking east at Lindai's mountains. Overlapping peaks, misty and misty clouds in the west, looking up at the sunny sky and red sun in Taihang, overlooking the steep peaks and long rivers under your feet.

Such a tempting and wonderful introduction makes it worthwhile to walk here again. But the sky was not beautiful, the drizzle of the night not only did not bring a sea of ​​clouds to today, but made the valley covered with thick fog, which greatly reduced our viewing effect.

Guizhentai, according to legend, is the place where Lao Tzu was humiliated and fell off the cliff to die.

The gallbladder test bench with a steel frame structure extends more than 10 meters into the canyon. Standing on it is like hanging in the canyon. Only you know whether you are in the air or trembling with fear.

The wall-hanging plank road and the wooden guardrails on the Baizhang cliff are crookedly built against the wall, giving people a simple and extremely unsafe feeling.

Although the glass plank is transparent, it feels much safer than the wooden plank.

Korean uncles and aunts seem to be very qualified. They love the Taihang landscape and the hanging wall road full of the beauty of the wilderness. They can be seen on the four hanging wall roads managed by the three scenic spots along the way.

Houbei Village, named after the back of Laoyeding, is one of more than ten natural villages in Huilong. Although the villagers on the top of the mountain can feast their eyes every day, if they want to go to the brigade headquarters at the bottom of the mountain, they have to take the risk of taking the "grandfather's ladder" that once fell to the death of 18 villagers. Built by the people on the mountain.

Zhang Rongsuo, who had accumulated huge wealth back then, was appointed as the village party secretary and decided to use his own money to build roads for the people on the mountain. He led 400 strong men in the village to live in caves in the mountains for three years, and finally dug a 1-kilometer "S"-shaped tunnel and an 8-kilometer winding mountain road on the cliff.

In 2002, the award speech of "Moving Chinese Characters" commented on Zhang Rongsuo like this:

You already have wealth, but in your heart you are still living in poverty. You have walked out of the mountains, but you still want all the folks to walk out of the isolated cliffs. You have achieved something that many generations have not been able to achieve. The dream, with the perseverance and courage of Yugong Yishan, split the mountain, carved a road to the outside world for the villagers on the cliff, and opened a door of hope in people's hearts. You end a history of poverty and start a new life.

Huilonghangbi is not only a passage to Laoyeding, but also an exciting red landscape. At both ends of the tunnel exit, there are sculptures of heroes, and there are huge photos of them cutting mountains and mountains in the cave. Teams hold banners and come to receive education.

The Huilong tunnel is less than a kilometer long, with cement pavement and stone windows. It is extremely "luxury". It is characterized by an S-shaped winding inside the cave, and the 8-kilometer-long oily black and shiny downhill road is connected outside the cave.

We slowly passed through the tunnel from Qingfeng Pass on the top of the mountain, and then drove down the mountain along the Panshan Highway. Below the mountain is the North China Plain.

So far, we have completed the crossing of 7 wall-mounted roads, from the rolling mountains of Shanxi to Yimapingchuan in Henan. Looking back at the mountain, I can't help but sigh the majesty of the mountain and the greatness of Taihang Yugong. We are still not satisfied, and feel that we should be a donkey friend again, climb the Taihang Mountain again, and visit the only village in Shanxi that is not open to traffic-Baodu Village in Lingchuan, Shanxi.

Baodu Village is just a small mountain village of 9 families, but it dominates a hill and a canyon domineeringly. This canyon is called the Mawuzhai Grand Canyon. The top is Mawuzhai in Shanxi, and the tail is Baligou in Henan. Baodu Village is suspended on a mountain platform halfway up the mountain.

Baodu Village is not closed to traffic in the general concept, but there is no road at all. If you want to enter Baodu Village, you have to abandon your car at Mawuzhai or Baligou and climb more than 8 kilometers in the mountain canyon. On many lines, the relatively safe and labor-saving path is to buy a ticket to enter Baligou Scenic Area, take two sections of the scenic spot car, then take the 168-meter vertical elevator up to the halfway up the mountain, then leave the scenic spot control area, and hike on the mountain road by the cliff for 8 kilometer. Although this route will be dismissed by travel friends, we know that we are not familiar with the terrain and have insufficient combat power, so we must put safety first.

The cliffside trails surrounded by mountains are covered by miscellaneous trees. In the silent mountains, only the sound of breathing and walking can be heard. We searched and moved forward according to the roads left by our donkey friends. Suddenly, I saw a guy the size of a dog squatting in the distance in front of me. I was afraid that the wolf forgot to take a telephoto shot of it. After staring at each other for a while, the guy ran into the woods. In the evening, I asked Lao Ji and said that it was either a monkey or a wild boar. There are often monkeys and wild boars in this mountain. The monkeys are a group that is frustrated in the struggle for leadership. They have broken away from the group and occasionally go out of the village with wild boars to harm crops and scare tourists. .

The mountains where Baodu Village is located are actually connected to scenic spots such as Wangmang Mountain, Tianjie Mountain and Baligou. There are towering peaks, cliffs reaching to the sky, many dangerous rocks in the valley, and green forests on the edge of the cliff. of the original breath.

Immortals welcome guests, and the iconic landscape of Baligou Scenic Area is very realistic here. Nature is so magical that it has sculpted a peak wall into a welcoming ambassador with a neat crown and clothes, holding green branches in his hands, and a graceful manner.

Finally, I saw a few tourists. They are professional walkers who have a special liking for the mountains. They stand on the edge of the cliff and show their calmness.

Laolongkou at the head of the village is the most important scenic spot along the way. With the combination of cloud, water, light and shadow, you can make a big picture of the scenery. Below it is the Baizhang Cliff, where the mountain water that flows in the rainy season will shrink its mouth, roaring out of the Danya and pouring into Henan. This is the place to watch the waterfall. On the opposite side of the cliff, you can see the magnificent scenery of the waterfall hanging high and hanging for nine days.

The boundary marker of Baodu Village, the gate of Shanxi is open to Henan. The name of Baodu Village is very special. It means that if you want to raise a pig and sheep here, you can only bring a small calf to the mountain to raise and breed.

The era when Baodu Village relied on carrying materials up and down has passed away. The village installed a hoist on the edge of the cliff, and through the 800-meter-long steel cable, the goods purchased by Henan people at the foot of the mountain can be lifted up the mountain. This is a smart initiative, and I really lament how hard it is for people in the mountains to survive.

After arduous trekking, finally arrived at the edge of the village at sunset. In addition to walking on Laoyeding, we hiked nearly 20 kilometers today, and our physical strength reached the limit. The afterglow of the setting sun made us the dawn of victory.

This is the home of the villager Ji. Lao Ji is a capable person. More than ten years ago, her family moved to Henan Plains to buy land and houses. In recent years, Baodu Village has suddenly become popular, and Qiongshan Village has become an air station for hardcore donkey friends to travel outdoors. Lao Ji appraised the situation and resolutely returned to Dashan. After tidying up several stone houses in her family, she became an innkeeper.

What Lao Ji reserved for us was the only "standard room" in the whole village. The walls and ceiling were covered with white paper. It's even more perfect.

day9: 2019.6.23

Today's journey is in Baodu Village to feel the passion of the outdoor team, follow a group of children to find the way out of the mountain among the barren hills and rocks, end the journey across the South Taihang in the wind and clouds in Baligou, and return to Handan with the harvest.

The mountains of Foxiao are full of verdant greenery, and Baodu Village, hidden in the green hills and green trees, is really a paradise in the depths of Taihang.

The rooster sings loudly, the fat pig arches the circle, and the head sheep leads the group to stand on a high hill.

Other families in the village also have inns, which are basically big rooms and Datong shops. There are also those who don’t stay in the hotel, those donkey friends with luggage, set up tents in the open space and on the roof, and some even cook by themselves. They have a strong ability to survive in the wild.

The roads, board and lodging conditions here will not be attractive to grandpas and aunts who love to take pictures. This place only belongs to those who seek suffering and suffering. I heard that the county magistrate once wanted to build a road for Baodu Village, but the villagers refused. The villagers were worried that after the road was repaired, the aunts with silk scarves might not come, but the donkey friends would definitely not come again. It's good to be positioned as an air station, and the old girls are making a lot of money.

The popularity of Baodu Village can be seen from the colorful banners all over the village. This place is like a base camp for strong men to go out for battle. All the troops outside the house are hunting and ready to go. The names of wild wolf, Beidou, and tribe are full of domineering. Being in it will make people involuntarily add a sense of pride.

After breakfast, the crossing army divided into two groups and started the journey again, some went up to Mawuzhai, and some went down to Baligou.

Because we took the elevator up the mountain, we felt that we were not strong enough to climb, so we decisively followed a 3861 unit and chose a way down the canyon among the rocks.

This is a team of three mothers and five children. The mothers said that this is a targeted exercise for the children. By taking unusual paths, seeing different scenery, and seeing different things, they can cultivate their will and ability to face challenges and overcome difficulties. .

It seems that the children are still a little timid, but they know how to be cautious in the face of danger and know what measures to take in different environments. They are doing a meaningful thing.

Another group of young people came up along the canyon. Their lineup was 20 to 30 people, full of vigor and passion, and they challenged the mountain under the leadership of the mountaineering coach.

Finally went down to the foot of the mountain. Baligou is a national 5A-level scenic spot that gathers the essence of the Taihang landscape. Today’s Baligou is flying through the chaotic clouds and the Bixi River is flowing, but we have no physical strength to melt into this beauty. We went straight to the exit of the scenic spot, dragged our tired bodies, loaded with harvest, and embarked on the return journey to Han .

The majestic Taihang, the sky enters the clouds, the viewer is horrified, and the traveler is frightened. This is a self-driving route connected in series by 7 hanging walls, which is a magnificent landscape jointly created by nature and Taihang Mountain people. A year later, it will be compiled into an article to record this unforgettable journey through time.