foreword



how high is the mountain
how long is the water
How hard is the road to heaven
Life is but a few decades
take advantage of the time
to meet someone
go to the scenery you want to see
time flies
Carpe Diem
......

Tibet, a place to visit once in a lifetime
In this autumn day when the mountain flowers are blooming and the barley harvest is abundant
I'm not far away
Over the mountains
Just for your appointment

About this trip


Some people say: Lijiang is suitable for romance, Dali is suitable for love, Tibet is suitable for healing, and if you have the opportunity, you must take your loved one to the place closest to heaven. However, in the world of flowers and flowers, it is hard to find a good man, so many people end up going to Tibet alone. When I was young, I yearned to "take the train to Lhasa", and when I got older, I looked forward to driving to Tibet. Before the age of 30, you must drive 317 on the northern Tibet line by yourself to understand what it means: no regrets in life.

schedule


D1: Chengdu —— Lhasa ——A Diao. Tea Drink (Gourmet) Overnight: Sunshine City Tibetan B&B (Potala Palace Branch)
D2: Potala Palace - Barkhor Street - Old Guangminggang Qiongtian Tea House (Gourmet) Overnight: Sunshine City Tibetan B&B (Potala Palace)

D3: Lhasa - Nagqu - Chuanwei Mutton Soup (Gourmet) Overnight: Yingbin Hotel in Northern Tibet
D4: Nagqu - Nujiang Grand Canyon - such as accommodation: Nujiang Yuan Hotel

D5: For example——Shala Mountain Pass——Sangda Temple——Yangxiu Township——Sapu Mountain——————————————————————————————————————————————
D6: For example——Bangor County——Ya’an Hotel (Gourmet) Accommodation: Yingbin Hotel in Northern Tibet

D7: Bangor County - Qiongcuo - Namtso - Holy Elephant Tianmen - Nagqu Accommodation: Xinjin Hotel
D8: Nagqu - Bujia Snow Mountain - Dingqing County Accommodation: Cordyceps Hotel
D9: Dingqing County - Zizhu Temple - Changdu Accommodation: Four Seasons Oxygen Enrichment Hotel
D10: Qamdo - Dege Sutra Printing House - Ganzi. Gegesar King City Accommodation: Hot spring B&B outside of time
D11: Ganzi - Bamei - Zheduo Mountain - Kangding - Ya'an - Chengdu

about the author

Sichuan Travel Expert/Gourmet Expert
@Strayed ding kitten

travel preparation


Equipment: camera, computer, mobile phone, octopus, selfie stick, stabilizer.

Clothing: woolen jacket, down jacket, long-sleeved dress, windbreaker jacket, scarf, pantyhose, Martin boots, slippers. (Tibet is a high-altitude area. During this trip, the altitude of Lhasa is 3,650 meters, the altitude of Nagqu is more than 4,450 meters, the altitude of Sapu Mountain is about 5,000 meters, and the altitude of Sacred Elephant Tianmen is about 4,700 meters. In high-altitude areas, the temperature difference between morning and evening is large, and the weather is changeable , bring more clothes, adapt to different weather.)


Medicine: Glucose, 999 cold medicine, Radix Radix, high anti-drug (Gaoyuanan, Rhodiola rosea)

Snacks: bread, biscuits, spicy bars, chocolate, fruit, etc. (On the way of self-driving, I am often in no-man’s land, and sometimes there are no canteens. On the one hand, I have to rush to the scenic spots, so I must bring snacks to fight hunger. I often want to eat fruits in Tibetan areas, and I find it troublesome to carry them. You can buy them in Tibet. The price is slightly more expensive.)

Other: Umbrella, Sun Hat, Sunglasses.
??Precautions:
In high-altitude areas, you must start eating Rhodiola a few days in advance. Do not exercise vigorously after arriving in Tibet. Avoid spicy food in high-altitude areas, keep warm, and avoid catching a cold. If you are weak, you can bring your own oxygen. When driving by yourself, pay attention to the amount of fuel at all times. It is best not to refuel with uncommon brands at gas stations on the way.

Day 1: Chengdu - Lhasa - A Diao. Tea (Gourmet)


Life is too short!
Need to be with sweet "people".
I want to drink butter tea, but I don't want to go out.
Then let's take it out, the online celebrity shop has arranged it.
In Lhasa, I enjoyed a pleasant afternoon tea time.


Sunshine City "Lhasa"｜First Impression

Tips:
Lhasa urban area
transportation:
1. Train: Chengdu, Chongqing, Lanzhou, Xining, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, there are direct trains to Lhasa.


At the beginning of the meeting, I heard that Tibet is a secret place with the top of thousands of mountains, the source of thousands of waters, the kingdom of Tibetan antelopes, and the hometown of yaks. And Lhasa is the brightest pearl in this secret place. The beautiful Lhasa is known as the "Sunshine City" because of its annual sunshine of 3005.3 hours, with an average of 8 hours and 15 minutes of sunshine per day.

Walking into the holy city of Lhasa, you can see pious worshipers in three or five steps, hear the "jingle bell" of the prayer wheel in five or six steps, and smell the fragrant butter tea in seven or eight steps.. ......The streets and alleys in the city are full of goods, and there is an endless stream of business travelers coming from south to north, creating a scene of prosperity. The scenery of mountains and rivers outside the city is unmatched. Exotic grasses and flowers are spread on the cliffs, and ancient temples are hidden in the hidden clusters. The Wanren Glacier soars to the sky, and the cliffs of the peaks and valleys are covered with ribbons. The blue lake reflects the top of the snow-capped mountains, and the wind blows the grass and cattle and sheep appear low.


Day 2: Potala Palace - Barkhor Street - Old Guangminggang Qiongtian Tea House (food) - Potala Palace (night view)
[D2 Timeline] Depart from Sunshine City B&B at 10:30, walk 1.6 kilometers, and arrive at the main entrance of the Potala Palace in about 22 minutes. 11:00 security check, enter the Potala Palace. After visiting the Potala Palace at 14:00, a bowl of rice noodles near the Ramoche Temple was served at 14:30, and the signature wild mushroom soup rice noodles was eaten. Arrive at the old Guangminggang Qiongtian Teahouse at 15:00, sit down and drink sweet tea. Visit the Barkhor Street at 18:00, and go on foot to the Potala Palace to take a night view at 19:30. Wait until the lights are on, and after taking pictures, take a taxi back to the hotel, about 15 minutes.


Sunshine City Tibetan B&B (Starry Sky Queen Room)
Address: Building 16, No. 11, Linkuo North Road

The Potala Palace, the world's epic palace



When you come to Lhasa, Tibet, if you have not punched in front of the Potala Palace, then this trip will be in vain. I don’t know when, travelers have tacitly accepted this saying, “If you haven’t been to the Potala Palace, you can’t say you have been to Lhasa, or even Tibet.”


When you come to Lhasa for the first time or the Nth time, you can’t help but want to go to the Potala Palace. Whether you can enter the inner hall of the Potala Palace or not, you always want to take a walk here, take a stroll, and enjoy the scenery. A majestic palace, take a photo with the Potala Palace. Be sure to leave some footprints in this landmark scenic spot in Tibet to be considered as having been to Tibet in the true sense. (Most people in the circle of friends think so)


For some people, this is the end of dream chasing, because there is the world's epic Potala Palace here. On a piece of red mountain, this magnificent palace is a holy place to cleanse the soul. Is this world-famous Potala Palace worth visiting? Although netizens said, "Don't regret it, you will regret it even more!" But when I came to the Potala Palace for the first time, I still chose to take a look in the palace. I thought to myself, "If I haven't gone to some places now, I may not have a chance to see its beauty in the future." (For example, affected by the 8.8 earthquake, the scenery of Wuhuahai in Jiuzhaigou is not as good as before, and the sea of ​​sparks has almost disappeared.)


The Potala Palace, more than 1,300 years ago, is not only exquisite in appearance and majestic, but also exquisite in the inner hall, with carved beams and painted buildings, which is especially worth visiting.

In the 7th century BC, after the Tubo Tibetan King Songtsan Gampo moved his capital to Lhasa, he built the Potala Palace with a total of 1,000 palaces and three nine-story buildings on the Red Mountain to marry Princess Wencheng. After that, it was destroyed and repaired several times, and now it has become the Temple of the Lost World. If you look carefully at the Potala Palace, you will find that its exquisiteness and ingenuity go far beyond the surface, and more about the extremely detailed design of the inner hall, as well as the Buddha statues and stupas that are displayed and enshrined in the inner hall today.


In order to protect the inner hall, and take into account load-bearing and other factors. It is necessary to make an appointment in advance to visit the inner hall of the Potala Palace. After making an appointment on the official website one day in advance, you will pass through the security checkpoint the next day. Individual passengers enter through the main entrance, and groups enter through the east gate.


When we enter from the main entrance, we will go through a security check before we can enter the inner courtyard. Follow the signs from the inner courtyard, climb up the steps all the way, and slowly watch the wonderful steps and stones, which is full of wit and wit. Among the buildings of the Bubatala Palace, the most frequently used colors are white, red, and yellow. The outer walls are almost all decorated with white and red. If you look carefully, you will find that the red in these walls is actually a branch called "strange willow", which is used to inlay in the wall. Beautiful, but also cold-resistant, moisture-resistant, corrosion-resistant, high-temperature resistant.


From the east hall all the way up, you will see many exquisite murals in the hall. Through a small door, here is the ticket office of the inner hall of the Potala Palace. After buying tickets here, you can enter the inner hall to visit. After passing through a promenade, you come to a wide square, which is said to be a place where Tibetan opera is performed. Pass through the winding corridors, come to the door of the White Palace, climb up the narrow wooden steps, and enter the interior of the White House.


The visit to the White House needs to be completed within 1 hour, and no matter whether it is the inner hall or the aisles and walls outside the White House, it is not allowed to take pictures. You must not take pictures by chance, or you will be discovered, and the consequences will be serious. Entering through the gate of the White House, you can still see many exquisite murals, the most famous of which is the picture of "Princess Wencheng Entering Tibet". Going forward along the tour route, you will come to the largest hall of the White House. There is a plaque bestowed by Emperor Tongzhi, and there is a golden seal of the fifth generation on the side, all of which are priceless treasures.


Roaming in the inner hall of the White House, you will find that the furnishings in the hall have stories, and even the corridors and aisles are not ordinary. The decoration of the walking gallery is also extremely gorgeous, as well as exquisite murals, telling different legends. On the side of the corridor, there is a hole in the aisle, which is the drainage system of the White House. The design of the surrounding curves cleverly introduces rainwater into the holes, effectively avoiding the corrosion of the building caused by the accumulation of rainwater. I have to say that the wisdom of the ancients is really amazing.


Going to the top floor of the White House, there is a road that leads directly to the Red Palace. Standing in an open area, you can overlook the real Lhasa city. There are many rare treasures stored in the Red Palace, such as gold-plated Buddha statues, exquisite mandala, tall spiritual pagodas and Buddha statues, which are breathtaking. Such a beautiful temple, when you come, you must come in, appreciate it, and walk in it, the heart is very peaceful.

After visiting the Red Palace, the visit to the inner hall of the Potala Palace is over. The platform at the exit overlooks the mountain behind the Potala Palace. There is a beautiful artificial lake here. If you don’t have enough time, you might as well go to the park and enjoy the beautiful and sacred Potala Palace from another angle. In addition, Yaowang Mountain is also a good place to watch. As the night falls and the lights come on, the Potala Palace is even more magnificent under the lights.

Barkhor Street, the sacred turning road


again and again
round and round
It seems to be able to go forever.
—— Barkhor Street. Pilgrimage


I have heard of the name of "Bakhor Street" for a long time. For travelers, Barkhor Street is a must-visit "playing street" in Lhasa; for Tibetans, it is the "middle circle" of their pious pilgrimage road.

This old street with a history of more than 1,300 years still retains the style of old Lhasa. The stones paving the street are all polished and placed on the street one by one, and there are still several old Tibetan buildings next to it. There is an incense burner in the heart of the street, and the lights are always burning day and night.

Reminiscing about the past, Barkhor Street is just a small path stepped by pilgrims to the Jokhang Temple. Thousands of years later, Barkhor Street has evolved into a commercial block centered on the Jokhang Temple and scattered towards eight corners, which has the name "Bajiao Street". The increasingly bustling streets are surrounded by a variety of small shops, a collection of eating, drinking and entertainment, which belongs to the CBD of the old city of Lhasa. Among them, the most famous small shop is Lao Guangming Gangqiong Sweet Tea, which attracts an endless stream of diners.


Walking on the streets of Barkhor, you can often see many pilgrims who "kneel three times and kowtow nine times" to worship their gods. On the original street of Barkhor Street, one after another, Tibetans chanted scriptures devoutly, turned the prayer wheel, and moved forward in unison, like soldiers receiving silent orders, walking clockwise on the "Holy Road". go ahead.


With the change of the times, this ancient prayer passage seems to have changed? When you inadvertently look around the block for a week, you will find that there are far more people wearing Tibetan clothes and taking pictures than there are people worshiping. The "sacred road" in the minds of Tibetans has quietly evolved into an online celebrity travel photography road.

Ali is far away, Nagqu is beautiful

Tips:
Nagchu City
Location: Nagqu in the north of Tibet is located in the Tanggula Mountains, Nyainqentanglha Mountains and Gangdise Mountains. It is connected to Changdu in the east, Ngari in the west, Lhasa and Nyingchi in the south, and Xinjiang and Qinghai in the north. . The scenery in the territory is picturesque, quiet and magnificent.

transportation:
1. Train: Chengdu, Chongqing, Lanzhou, Xining, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, there are direct trains to Nagqu.
2. Self-driving: Depart from Lhasa, Duilong Avenue - National Highway 109 - Binhe Road - Zhejiang West Road - Nagqu.
Depart from Qamdo, Sanjiang Road - National Highway 214 - Lashan Tunnel in Zhujiao - National Highway 317 - Middle Zhejiang Road - Nagqu.
Special products: Cordyceps sinensis, saffron, ghee tsampa, ginseng clam wine, cashmere cashmere from Kashmir, Tibetan fritillary, bar cake.
Note: The average altitude of Nagqu is above 4,500 meters. When you first arrive in the Nagqu area, you should not be spicy or drink alcohol, and keep warm.


There is a saying in ancient Tibet: "Ali is far away, Qamdo is difficult, and Nagqu is the most bitter." With the opening of asphalt roads on the snow-covered plateau, once upon a time, the difficult Nagqu has undergone earth-shaking changes. Nagqu is not only the hometown of Cordyceps, but also has many amazing hidden treasures, such as the most magical Oriental Grand Canyon; the Sap Mountain, which is regarded as the "peerless secret place"; and the sacred elephant Tianmen, the ultimate secret place in northern Tibet. …

Pure and white hada, send the most sincere blessings.
Accompanied by cheerful Tibetan songs and dances, a shocking motorcycle rider appeared on the stage.

Under the blue sky and white clouds, a grand gathering of self-driving travelers is underway.
The road is long and the water is long.


Discover the polar region of Nagqu and start a journey to the sky.
Facing the "battle flag" swaying in the wind, following the brave knights who ventured into Nagqu, we went around the mountains and rivers and met the most beautiful Nagqu.



Day 4: Nagqu - Nujiang Grand Canyon - For example
[D2 Timeline] Departure from the hotel at 9:30, at Nagqu Tourism Bureau at 10:00, plus mobilization of motorcycle self-driving. Start driving at 11:00, driving along National Highway 317, the scenery on the way is good, passing through the magnificent Nujiang Grand Canyon. Along the 558 National Highway - Ningbo Road, drive to Nujiang Yuan Hotel in such a county. The whole journey is 248 kilometers, about 4 hours and 35 minutes. (In Nujiang Grand Canyon, you can stop for a photo break and have a meal on the way; the original plan was to go to the Skull Wall, but because the door was not opened, it was not visited)
【Paste on board and lodging】
This is the first day of the northern Tibet line 317, which is self-driving, and the meals on the way are all "rushing" to solve the problem of food and clothing. It is recommended to choose a Sichuan restaurant, the taste will not be too bad. You can bring your own dry food in case you encounter traffic jams and other situations, and there is no food on the road.

Nujiang Yuan Hotel is, for example, the county seat, the tallest building at present. After getting off the highway, you can see it when you enter the city. There is currently no clear location on the hotel map. For example, it is known as the small Jiangnan in Tibet. The altitude here is about 4,000 meters, and it will sleep very sweetly at night.

Nujiang Grand Canyon, the most magical oriental canyon

Tips:
Nu River Grand Canyon
Transportation: You need to drive there by yourself. There is no shuttle bus at present. Most of them are winding mountain roads. You need to drive carefully.

Walking in the legend of old Tibet, what makes people unforgettable in this life is the longest and most mysterious Oriental Grand Canyon in the world, which can be called an epic spectacle and is breathtaking.


When it comes to the "Oriental Grand Canyon", you may feel very strange. When you know that it also has a name called "Nujiang Grand Canyon", you will instantly feel more cordial. This magical oriental Grand Canyon spans the three provinces of Sichuan, Yunnan and Tibet. It closely connects large and small snow-capped mountains, lakes with blue waves, steep and steep cliffs, and primitive and quiet ancient villages to form a beautiful landscape. A magnificent landscape painting. And with the simple folk customs and colorful culture, it has written the legendary East.




Starting from Lhasa, drive all the way to the north, facing the bright sunshine, white clouds, breathing the thin air, smelling the fragrant grass, looking at the continuous snow-capped mountains........ Driving in the oil painting-like On Kangzhuang Avenue, every minute and every second is enjoyed.


Do you think that Tibet, which is "the top of a thousand mountains and the source of thousands of waters", gives you the beauty of the fairyland on earth? However, reality is always cruel and merciless. One second I was still enjoying the picturesque scenery, and the next second I was dizzy on the winding asphalt road. It just confirms what netizens said, "the eyes are in heaven, but the body is in hell." The road under the wheel, which is winding mountains and winding water, is the only way to the Nujiang Grand Canyon.



Before seeing its shape, first hear its sound. The "rumbling" water of the Nujiang River is like a string of long-lasting cannonballs blasting, which is frightening. In Tibet in August, it is the rainy season. Standing on the edge of the cliff, overlooking the torrential Nu River, walking among the mountains, the dark yellow river soaks the green hills, and the turbid water vapor mist the canyon. The Nujiang Canyon, which bends three times and turns nine times, is better than a giant dragon jumping on the land of China, seeing mountains and opening mountains, seeing valleys and splitting valleys... Its mischievous nature unexpectedly created the most magical oriental land in the world. The canyon, such a wonder of the world.


The upper reaches of the Grand Canyon of the Nujiang River are located in Tibet. Because of the deep blackness of the river, it is also known as the "Black Water River". The Nu River in Yunnan, which is familiar to the world, is actually the lower reaches of the Nu River Grand Canyon.


At the Humanistic Landscape Photography Exhibition, you can often see photos of the 270-degree U-shaped bend of the "Nujiang First Bend" in Yunnan, because a village called Kantong is wrapped in the bend, which is 50 meters above the Nujiang River. The terrain is open and the scenery is beautiful. , shaped like a peach garden, so it is famous. However, the "First Bend of the Nu River" in Tibet's precipitous mountains is little known. The further east you go along the tributaries of the Nujiang River, the deeper the river cuts, the narrower the valley bottom, and the valley drop is about a kilometer, which is particularly spectacular. The former is a poetic pastoral dream, and the latter is an adventurer's "Temple Run".


A mountain is divided into four seasons, and the three-dimensional vertical climate of different days for ten miles has given birth to a unique and fragrant plateau landscape corridor. Often, the lush forests in the valleys are lush and green like midsummer, the flowers and grass on the hillsides are yellow and yellow like spring and autumn, and the peaks are covered with white clouds and snow like winter. From far to near, overlooking the Nujiang Canyon, there are layers of green fields in the distant mountains, which seem to be spectacular terraced fields. Near the side of the cliff river valley, the houses are dotted with stars, and the lush barley fields are full of vitality, creating the legend of "Little Jiangnan" in northern Tibet.

This self-driving route has narrow roads, many curves and cliffs around it, so it is not suitable for buses. Only experienced drivers dare to drive forward. So along the way, there are few cars in sight. The magnificent scenery along the way can only be enjoyed alone. Even during the golden week of tourism, this road is unimpeded.



The most primitive and simple Nujiang Grand Canyon in the world can be called: a high-end version of "Temple Escape", with picturesque scenery along the way. For this wonder of the world, are you willing to "ride the wind and waves" all the way without fear of hardships and dangers?


Day 5: For example - Shala Mountain Pass - Sangda Temple - Yangxiu Township - Sapu Mountain - For example
[D2 Timeline] Depart from Ruxiang County at 8:30, drive 30 kilometers, and arrive at the pass of Shala Mountain at about 9:30. At 11:00, continue along National Highway 558 for 35 kilometers, about 42 minutes, and arrive at Yangxiu Township at about 11:50. At this time, go to the fork on the left side of the road, and you will see a small road leading to Sangda Temple. From here, the "bullet road" road to hell begins. Go straight along the dirt road and you will reach the Cordyceps Lake in Sapu Mountain. The return journey starts at 17:00, and returns to, for example, the county seat around 21:00.

Small Jiangnan in northern Tibet, such as the county

Tips:
Shara Mountain Pass (5072 meters above sea level)
Transportation: 30 kilometers away from the county seat, about 57 minutes by car (this section of winding mountain road, there are many cliffs on both sides, please drive carefully and avoid driving at night)
Photo spots: the edge of the cliff, the road sign of Shala Mountain, and Jingfan Mountain


Ru County, which has a "Jiangnan flavor", has an average altitude of about 4,000 meters. It is located in Biru County between Tanggula and Niantanggula Mountains, located in the upper reaches of Nujiang River. The terrain of the whole county is mainly low mountains and hills, interspersed with some high mountains and canyons, surrounded by icebergs and snow peaks. Legend has it that this is the place where "mother yaks settle", and there is the most expensive Cordyceps in Tibet.

After passing through the "bad road" in the county, for example, turn into the small road behind the county seat, go all the way to National Highway 317, follow the Nujiang River, take a section of winding mountain roads in high mountains and valleys, and climb over the first peak, which is the 5072-meter Shala Mountain. Just in the early morning, the fog in the mountains and valleys has not yet dissipated. I walked to the platform of the pass and parked by the side of the road. One side is close to the mountain wall, and the other side is a canyon with a deep abyss. Surrounded by clouds and mist, it is like a fairyland. My companion used a drone here to capture the magical light of the Buddha and the rainbow-like light of the Great Buddha, which is amazing. Walking forward, there is an open grassland, deep in the grassland near the ridge, a natural "Yunwu Haizi" is formed, which is too amazing. Because I had to hurry to walk, I didn't go closer to find out.


Walking along the winding road, the scenery on both sides of the asphalt road is very different, with lush hills on one side and low plant meadows on the other. On this road, there is a kind of arrow pointing vertically downwards to the road sign in the center of the road, which is to indicate where the center of the road is. To avoid snow and ice in winter, after the road is covered by heavy snow, cars can't find their way on it, so there is this sign. Walking on this road, passing through a piece of fantastic stone mountain walls, it is like driving into a geological park, which is wonderful.

Sapu Mountain, a peerless secret


"In that life, I turned mountains and rivers and pagodas, not for the purpose of cultivating the next life, but just to meet you on the way." Duoshan people, because of Cangyang Gyatso's words, got on the train to Lhasa and went all the way. OK, start your own "pilgrimage".

Turning around the mountain was originally a way of behavior for the Tibetans' attitude towards religious piety. Now, with the passage of time and the integration of ethnic groups, turning around the mountain has become a new way of travel for travelers on foot. Looking at the top ten sacred mountains in Tibet, the most mysterious ones are Gang Rinpoche, Meili Thirteen Peaks, and Nanga Bawa Peak, which are highly sought after by travelers, just to witness their true appearance.

When people were still keen to pursue the most rare holy mountains in the three major Tibetan areas, a snow-capped mountain with a "perfect and prosperous appearance" was born in Nagqu and became increasingly popular. It is the sacred mountain of Sapu, which can be called a peerless secret.

The beautiful Sapu Mountain is located in Puzonggou, Yangxiu Township, Naquru County. For thousands of years, it has been standing here quietly and unknown. Compared with other snow-covered holy mountains in Tibet, Sap Holy Mountain is completely different. It not only has a perfect regular triangle "pyramid" peak, but also has a blue glacier comparable to Lake Baikal. Only these two characteristics determine Sap The status of the peerless secret realm.

This sacred mountain of Sapu, hidden deep in the "small Jiangnan in northern Tibet", has amazed the time as soon as it came out. Not only that, because of the existence of Sap God Mountain, travelers have a higher pursuit of snow mountain aesthetics.


I trek

came over a hundred miles

just to meet you

To see your peerless face

Hidden deep in Nagqu, the peerless secret place in the depths: Sapu Mountain

The top of Mount Sapu is covered with snow all the year round. There are often blue ice floating in the ice lake.

The regular triangle pyramid iceberg within reach is a rare spectacle in the world.

There are red flowers and green grass at the bottom of the lake and mountains, flocks of cattle and sheep, and cute marmots... Prayer flags fly by the outer lake, and pilgrims come and go.



In Tibetan areas, behind every sacred mountain and holy lake, there is a moving legend, and Sapu sacred mountain is no exception. Sapu Mountain is not a mountain, but a group of peaks. The Sapp Holy Mountain is composed of the Sapp family. From left to right, they are Sapp's wife, the illegitimate son of Sapp's wife after she cheated, the second son of Sapp, the eldest son of Sapp, and the daughter of Sapp. At this time, I have to marvel at the wisdom of the Tibetans. The icy snowy mountains have become more charming after giving them names and stories.


When we drove from Ruxiang County, we drove all the way through mountains and rivers, bypassed the misty Shala Mountain pass, passed the quaint and unique Sangda Temple, went through the "bullet road" after the baptism of the mountain mud, and finally came to the foot of Sapu Mountain. The first viewing point of Mount Sapu is in the outer lake (also known as Cordyceps Lake) where the prayer flags are flying. Standing on the shore of the lake, through the colorful prayer flags, you can have a close view of Mount Sapu, which is shocking.

Continue along the winding winding road, passing through a sloping cliff, where you can see a circular "Jade Pei" snow mountain. The unmelted ice and snow, and the gray-brown valleys and ravines have created such a rare spectacle, which is very wonderful. If the weather is fine, you can still see the mottled Cordyceps Lake at this time, which is very beautiful.


Along the low foothills, go straight down, and you will come to the only accommodation in Sap God Mountain. There is a small Tibetan house here, which can provide accommodation. After passing the courtyard of the Tibetan people’s house, continue to go down, go down to the grassland at the bottom, and wade through the wet swamp to the inner lake (also known as: ice lake, Samuco) of Sapu Mountain. Standing on this open space, gazing at the sacred mountain of Sapu, tears welled up in my eyes inadvertently. Who would have imagined how much the God and Creator loved Nagqu so much that he bestowed Nagqu with such a peerless beauty? Walking by the lake, the light blue glaciers float in the lake, like cute little dolphins, so vivid and lifelike. Behind the ice lake is the harmonious Sapp family, and the snow-capped mountains sit quietly in front of you. The vastness of nature is breathtaking. If you change your way of thinking, the rolling Sapp Mountain and the marvelous ice lake, like the Sap family sitting together in harmony, enjoying the "hot pot" in the ice lake.


Sapu Mountain and Glacier are the most precious gifts given to Nagqu by God. With the popularity of the sacred mountains and glaciers of Sapu, the Garden of Eden in the depths of the snow-capped mountains is no longer desolate. For such rare and peerless scenic spots, travelers come from far away, just to witness the "glorious appearance" of the sacred mountains and ice lakes. ".



Day 6: For example - Bangor County - Ya'an Hotel (Gourmet)
[D2 Timeline] Depart from the county seat at 8:00, go straight along National Highway 317, and enter National Highway 558. The whole journey is 477 kilometers, about 7 hours and 51 minutes. I was on the road all day. In order to get to the hotel earlier to rest, I didn't stop the car except for going to the bathroom, refueling, and having a light meal. Stay overnight at the best hotel in Bangor County. In the Ya'an restaurant, I ate the most delicious "spicy chicken" in the Tibetan area, and I was very satisfied.
[Accommodation paste]
Bangor Xinjin Hotel (4,700 meters above sea level, the best hotel in the area, actually the standard of an ordinary express hotel)
Address: Intersection of Tongna Road and Jijiang Zhaxi Road, Bangor
Suggestion: If your teammates are in good physical condition, not hypocritical, can endure hardships, and have drivers who can switch cars. It is recommended to start early and drive directly to the Sacred Elephant Tianmen Scenic Area. Live in it at night, and you can play for a while the next day.


Day 7: Bangor County - Qiongcuo - Namtso - Holy Elephant Tianmen - Nagqu
[D2 timeline] Depart from the hotel at 8:00, the whole journey is about 167 kilometers, and the driving time is about 3 hours and 30 minutes. Today is a day of making mistakes along the way, and you can see beautiful "measures" along the way. The first measure we saw was "Dangqiongcuo". The color of the lake here is emerald and royal blue, and the water color changes as strangely as Jiuzhaigou. The second rest point is after arriving at the Holy Elephant Tianmen Amusement Center (under construction), continue driving for a while. On the left hand side of the road, you will see a stone hill like a "crown". people. Because it is further ahead to the Holy Elephant Tianmen, few people will park here. Therefore, those who like few people must pay attention, there are few beautiful scenery and people here. You can see the rolling snow-capped mountains, the royal blue Namtso, and the photos are particularly beautiful. Arrive at the Holy Elephant Tianmen at 14:00. There are too many people here. If you want to take a photo of the "Tianmen" without anyone, you need someone to continuously supervise the queue. Return to Nagqu County at 16:00, the whole journey is 319 kilometers, about 5 hours and 34 minutes. Although at the Tianmen of the Holy Elephant, I walked around and looked around, and my eyes were full, but I was not lucky, but on the way back, I met the pink sunset, and there were still Tibetan antelopes.

When you are poor, the "Emerald Lake" in northern Tibet


Starting from Lhasa, take a train for 4 hours to drive to Nagqu at an altitude of about 4450 meters. The bare mountains around and the endless grasslands are so beautiful.

In August, facing the morning clouds and mist, driving on the winding asphalt road, the meadows on both sides of the road are full of flowers and colorful, just like the flowers embroidered on the earth by wind and rain, it is very wonderful. Passing through the world's longest and most magical Nujiang Grand Canyon, driving straight ahead, turning around mountains and rivers, shaking from side to side, people are drowsy.


Suddenly, the car slammed on the brakes and woke up from a deep sleep. On the clean asphalt road, strong yaks are moving slowly. At this time, behind the grassland in the distance, a green lake appeared. The earth, which was originally shrouded in clouds and mist, gradually became clear under the rays of faint sunlight. There are roads running through the grassland, and there are lakes beside the grassland. This is Nagqu Dangqiongcuo.


Although, I can't wait to use the camera to "click" a picture to record its beauty, but I still hold back. After driving another section, we arrived at the viewing platform of Dangqiongcuo. Standing on the platform, overlooking the entire lake, it is like a priceless emerald gem, so bright and pure.



The breeze comes slowly, mixed with the sweet and fragrant lake water smell. Surrounded by mountains, Dangqiongcuo looks like a baby in its infancy. That pool of blue-colored lake water is clear and pure, crystal clear and transparent, just like the baby's big "watery" eyes. Some people say, is this spotless lake water the teardrop of God, or the sweet spring gifted to the earth?



It is reported that Dangqiongcuo Lake is 4,475 meters above sea level and covers an area of ​​54.5 square kilometers. Its name means xiaodangreyongcuo in Tibetan. The color of the entire lake is emerald green, and it is between blue and green when viewed with the naked eye, which is very magical.


In the past, Dangqiongcuo and Dangre Yumcuo belonged to the same lake, but due to the depletion of the lake, they were divided into two halves by nature. . The distance between the two lakes is 40 kilometers. Looking back on the past, when they were both one lake, what kind of vast and magnificent scenery will it be? This year, the "Shuangse Lake" in the Northwest is very popular. Who knows that there is such a beautiful "Tibetan Shuangse Lake" in northern Tibet?

Looking into the distance along the well-arranged mani piles, among the brown mountains surrounded by clouds and mist, the snow-capped mountains are gradually showing their sharp corners, like a shy girl who gently pushed aside the tulle and looked at the opposite bank crowd. The surroundings are silent, and time seems to have stagnated. This picturesque scenery makes people's hearts wonderful.


There are patches of salt-white swamps by the lake, and there are small ditches in the form of tree roots beside the swamps. The tenacious vegetation on both sides of the ditch is growing wantonly, adding a little vitality to this barren land. This mottled swamp and emerald lake form a beautiful "beach". No wonder, people often say that Tibetans never look at the sea, just because the measures at the door of the house are so beautiful, better than the blue sky and blue sea.


On the grassland that stretches for more than a hundred miles, there are flocks of cattle and sheep. On the winding asphalt road, it is rare to see a few cars passing by in half a day. The mountains, lakes, and grasslands, the beautiful picture scroll, just stay here quietly, like the secret place in the ancient legend, which has not changed since ancient times.


Namtso, the beautiful "Sky Lake"


Tibet is a mysterious place with bright sunshine.
White clouds, pure sky.


Thin air, rolling snow-capped mountains, quiet lakes.
Self-driving the northern Tibet line, making mistakes (measures) along the way.


Passing through lakes of various sizes, you can enjoy the unique scenery of lakes and mountains.
The most unforgettable thing is Namco, which is as magnificent as a blue gem.


At the foot of the majestic snow-capped mountains, there is a green lake, sparkling in the sunshine.
On the Gobi by the lake, there are mottled green algae fields, which are the most beautiful memories left by the wind and snow to the earth.


Sitting quietly on the edge of the strangely shaped stone cliff, looking up at the clear blue sky and white clouds, in the silence, it seems to be in an ancient legend.




Holy Elephant Tianmen, the ultimate secret place in northern Tibet

Because of the famous mountains and great rivers, I was tossed in one city after another, and because of the dream of a foreign land, I was lost in one mountain road after another. The mountains and seas gave me the beauty of the prosperous age, and the ancient village gave me a quiet time. Seeing the prosperity of the world, traveling all over the world, and in the end, actually stopped by a "hollow" giant bald rock, fell in love at first sight, and will never forget it. It's just because the ultimate secret of this no-man's-land in northern Tibet is too wonderful, like the "Holy Gate" leading to heaven.


It is not as magnificent as the Potala Palace, not as majestic as the Everest, not as sacred as the Jokhang Temple, but it is the best gift Tibet gives to people. It is the hidden secret of the sky in old Tibet: the holy elephant Tianmen.


Under the sky, the sky and the lake are the same color, and the prayer flags are flying. On the side of the green lake, there are strange rocks and snow-capped mountains. After a shock, goodbye and love... A holy stone shaped like a giant elephant stands on the north bank of Namtso. And the gate of heaven in the stone elephant is wide open, as if spying on Namco. The holy snow-capped mountains, pure lake water, and strange holy stones constitute the most beautiful picture in the world, and every frame is unforgettable.


The Holy Elephant Tianmen is located in Qinglong Township, Bango County, Nagqu, Tibet, and belongs to the north bank of Namco. If we talk about the bright and moving spiritual eyes on Namtso's body, then the Holy Elephant Tianmen is the shining pupil in the spiritual eyes, like a treasure. According to Tibetan legends, this fairyland-like holy elephant Tianmen is the wedding venue for the Nyainqentangla Mountain God to marry the Namtso Goddess.



After driving hundreds of miles, after going through the torment of the "washing board" road, I was finally lucky enough to see the scene of the holy elephant Tianmen. Along the muddy path, I walked down slowly all the way to the "Stone Elephant". After looking at it, I found a "hollow" hole between the body and nose of the Stone Elephant, just like a stone gate. One side is the world, the other side is heaven, and this is where the road to heaven begins.


It is reported that within the fjord of the Holy Elephant Tianmen, there was once a ruined temple with overgrown weeds and broken walls. It used to be a secret practice place for those who have attained the Tao. It no longer exists now, and the traces of the past are probably only remembered by the sun, moon and stars by the lake.


On a turbulent afternoon, the Sacred Elephant Heavenly Gate was divided into two worlds by a huge dark cloud, one half was clear and transparent, the other half was dark gray and deep, each with its own merits. As the wind and cloud flowed, the entire lake was lit up, the sun was shining, and the continuous snow-capped mountains also poked their heads quietly. At this moment, it seems that the whole world has come to a standstill, and the beauty in front of you is enough to make you forget the passage of time.


If you want to enjoy the panoramic view of the Holy Elephant Tianmen, you must go back to the cliff on the right side just after entering the Holy Elephant Tianmen. Standing on the edge of this cliff, even if you don't have a drone, you can "shoot down" the panorama of the Holy Elephant Tianmen. This position is an excellent camera position for shooting panoramas. One after another, the river valleys and gullies are like the curling waves, which are playful and beautiful.



Like other lakes in Tibet, this clear water is like the sea, sometimes blue, sometimes green, without a trace of impurities, clean and pure, just like the people of Tibet, simple and unpretentious. On the side of the green lake, there are circles of brown cliffs, like mighty generals guarding the Holy Gate. Walking in the meantime, it seems to be walking in the magnificent geological picture scroll.


If you are a landscape photography enthusiast, don't dislike the accommodation conditions in this barren land, you must stay at the Holy Elephant Tianmen for one night. In this uninhabited area in northern Tibet, in the pure nature, the beautiful sunset, the dreamlike sun, moon and stars are all worth waiting for.


Walking on the bumpy dirt road, the stone mountains on both sides are full of prayer flags, and there are high and low mani piles. This is the Tibetan people's belief in paying homage to the sacred mountains and holy lakes. For Tibetans, pilgrimage not only exists on the road, but also deeply engraved in their hearts, which is admirable.


The no-man's land in northern Tibet, the ultimate secret place of the world's scenic spots, must be visited once in a lifetime. Even if the mountains are high and the cliffs are steep, the road is difficult and the water is long, the moment you see the sacred elephant Tianmen, you will understand that the hard journey is worth it.

Zizhu Temple, the City of Sky


Worlds, full of wonders. On the side of the cliff at an altitude of 4,800 meters, there is actually a "city in the sky" that has stood for more than 3,000 years. After three thousand years of wind and rain, it still stands proudly as before, which is amazing. What is unbelievable is that this magical "city in the sky" can only be met by predestined people in the world, and those who have no predestined relationship will eventually meet each other. That's why people say: If you are lucky enough to see him, you will live up to this life.


It is the most shining pearl "Zizhu Temple" on the G317 of the Northern Tibet Line. It not only has the reputation of "Sky City", but also the homeland of belief on the top of the mountain. Away from the hustle and bustle of the world, hidden in the precarious cliffs of Zizhu Mountain, the holy mountain in Tibet, it is the most holy place of practice in Tibet.

Zizhu Temple is located in Jonbu Dingqing Jue'en Township, Qamdo, Tibet, 37 kilometers away from Dingqing County, and is adjacent to National Highway 317. On one side of this place are bare cliffs, and on the other side are ravines in the abyss. The altitude climbs rapidly from 3500 meters at the foot of the mountain to 4800 meters at the top of the mountain. In order to meet him, the hardships along the way are beyond words, and I know it myself.


Facing the early morning mist, we set off from Dingqing County, drove through muddy puddles, through rugged canyons like a ray of sky, and through winding mountain roads representing the six paths of reincarnation. Meet Zizhu Temple.


In the vast and vast mountains, jagged and strange rocks stand tall. In an extremely dangerous and steep place, six bald stone peaks stand here, and behind them is the abyss. This is Mount Zizhu, one of the four sacred mountains of the Bon religion of Tibetan Buddhism.

In the morning light, the high mountains are wrapped in fog and bound by clouds, covering Zizhu Temple in the clouds and mists, like a shadow, like a fairyland on earth. A gust of breeze blows away, clearing away the pervasive clouds and mist, and Zizhu Temple gradually becomes clear. Under the sky, everything is negative.

Standing on the viewing platform opposite Zizhu Temple to enjoy Zizhu Temple, the vermilion palace is surrounded by dotted houses, and behind the houses are the six peaks of Zizhu Mountain, which are like six-leaved lotus petals. Under the protection of the gods, bursts of Sanskrit sounds came from this sacred palace, and bustling lamas sat on the ground, turning the prayer wheels in their hands alternately.


Come to the viewing platform on the side of Zizhu Temple, staring into the distance, the mountains are majestic, majestic and majestic, which is shocking. A goshawk flitted across the sky, the sun spread over the entire mountain, and the temples and palaces were shining with gold. Anyone who comes to Zizhu Temple will be attracted by the hollow peak among the six peaks. At first glance, it looks like a mirror hanging in the air, which can peek into people's hearts, which is especially magical. However, in Tibetan myths and stories, one claims that the cave was left behind by the Tibetan king’s bow and arrow, and the other claims that it is a precious mirror left by the roc passing through the mountains, which can reflect the emptiness of the world. , named after the peak of seeing emptiness. It's a pity that there is no way to study the facts.


"Zizhu" in Tibetan means six peaks, which symbolizes the sentient beings of the six realms who are transformed by Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva with compassion and wisdom. The six peaks are Ruyi Zhenbao Peak, Wuwu Crystal Peak, Seeing Emptiness Peak, Suixin Suojia Peak, Unchanging Yongzhong Peak, and Great Peak Peak. Among the colorful six peaks, there are white khatas and colorful prayer flags, which are the testimony of Tibetans praying for blessings.


The beautiful Zizhu Mountain has a myriad of scenery throughout the year. Among them, the most beautiful is autumn and winter. Under the warm autumn sun, wildflowers are competing to bloom on the grassy alpine meadow. Looking into the distance through the "magic mirror" of Zizhu Mountain. From near to far, there are blue and yellow green barley fields on the mountain tops of eastern Tibet with thousands of ravines, and the reddish-brown and orange-yellow Danxia valleys, just like God overturned the paint plate, and it turned into a harmonious and wonderful painting. Plateau autumn harvest landscape oil painting.


On the other side of the side of the six peaks, there is a small lonely hill. Behind the peak is the abyss of unpredictability. If you walk along the grassland on the edge of the cliff, you can have a panoramic view of the picturesque and quiet mountain village in the distance. In the depths of the clouds and mist, there is a Tibetan village, with layers of highland barley fields, embedded in the mountains and rivers, the fireworks are thick, and there is no competition with the world.


In fact, this Zizhu Temple, which is admired by thousands of people, not only has the unique construction technology, but also the magnificent plateau scenery around it, and it also hides many rare treasures. Among these collections, the most precious ones are the left-handed white dharma snail and the immeasurable light Buddha, which can be called the treasures of the town temple. On the caves and stone walls of Liufeng, there are holy relics of the masters' practice. The self-appearing Buddha statues, mandala, and mantras in the cave walls are dizzying.

Talk to the locals to find out. The best time to make a pilgrimage to Zizhu Temple is from late June to mid-August every year. In late June, there will be a very grand puja and dance in Zizhu Temple. Among them, the most solemn one is the "Bliss and Hell" divine dance ceremony held only once in 12 years. Every year in the Year of the Rooster, thousands of pilgrims come here for this spectacular dance of the gods, which can be called a grand event in Buddhism. If you are lucky enough to view it, you will receive incomparable blessings and spiritual liberation.

This holy place of practice has attracted many pious people to come here for pilgrimage and practice. Senior monk Zeng said: "Generally, one year of practice in other places is not as good as one month here." It can be seen that the strength of the special blessing here is strong. Looking at the large and small houses and palaces in Zizhu Mountain, they seem to be caves for practicing, quietly telling legends. The Sanskrit sounds are faint in the temples, and the lamps on the Buddhist altar are always bright. As time goes by and the time changes, Zizhu Temple remains motionless.



I have a pilgrimage dream in my heart, not the Lama Temple beside the high courtyard, not the exotic Jokhang Temple, nor the world-famous Potala Palace, but this ancient and mysterious Zizhu Temple. When the autumn charm is fragrant, I am fortunate to see it, and I have no regrets.


Day 9: Dingqing County - Zizhu Temple - Qamdo
[D2 Timeline] Depart from Dingqing County at 8:30 and arrive at Zizhu Temple at 9:30. Depart from Zizhu Temple at 11:30, walk along National Highway 317, pass National Highway 214, and go to Changdu. The whole journey is 214 kilometers, about 4 hours and 21 minutes. 17:00 Arrive at Qamdo Four Seasons Oxygen Enrichment Hotel.
【Accommodation Tips】
Four Seasons Oxygen Enrichment Hotel
Address: No. 63, Xingfu Street, Jiangda County

Northern Sichuan-Tibet Line, the most primitive humanistic secret

Tips:
Derge Printing House
Location: No. 13, Bagong Street, Dege County, Ganzi Prefecture
Tickets: 50 yuan / person
Suggestion: If you have enough time, you can go in and have a look. The collection of books here is rich and unique, suitable for taking portraits.


It is said that the "Sichuan-Tibet G318" must be driven in this life
But I only love G317, the northern Tibet line with more primitive and magnificent humanistic scenery.

National Highway 317 mostly passes through plateau pastoral areas, with higher altitudes, sparsely populated areas and more primitive scenery.
Self-driving on this road, I enjoy it very much, and I can't see a few cars in the whole process~

There are continuous snow-capped mountains along the way, and Tibetan temples and pagodas are one after another... The scenery is picturesque
It's like driving in the best picture scroll and admiring the original appearance of old Tibet. The purity and simplicity are exciting.



To me, faith is faith.
For them, faith is life.

—— Dege. Printing House


Day 10: Qamdo - Dege Sutra Printing House - Ganzi. Gegesar King City - Hot Spring Homestay Beyond Time
[D2 Timeline] Depart from Changdu to Dege Sutra Printing House at 11:00, the whole journey is 93 kilometers, about 2 hours. Depart from Dege at 14:00, go to King Gesar City via National Highway 317, the whole journey is 185 kilometers, about 3 hours and 26 minutes. Arrive at King Gesar City at 18:00.

Poetry and distance, probably like this!

【Accommodation Tips】
Beyond Time Hotspring B&B
Address: Near the King Gesar City, near the White Tower. (The boss is a buddhist, only accepts people who are destined, there is no online reservation channel)




Zheduo Mountain, the first pass in Kham


During the journey, there are some scenery, we will meet again. Zheduo Mountain is the first pass in Kham and also the first pass into Tibet. This time, I followed the self-driving team, anyway, I took the Sichuan-Tibet G317 road, which was full of mountains, and I was still impressed by its beauty.

The highest peak of Zheduo Mountain is 4962 meters above sea level, the pass is 4298 meters above sea level, and the altitude difference with Kangding City is 1800 meters. Drive along the winding and circling road into the pass of Zheduo Mountain. At the beginning of autumn, Chengdu is very hot and dry, but Zheduo Mountain is cold and windy, and it snows heavily. Everyone put on winter clothes.


After a year, when I came to Zheduo Mountain again, it turned out to be different. There are more prayer flags on the fences on both sides of the vertically upward viewing platform steps. The local area has also specially repaired a prayer flag praying place for tourists to place their blessings on Zheduo Mountain.

The altitude milestone of Zheduo Mountain has also become an Internet celebrity photo spot with Tibetan yaks, and there are countless vendors selling snacks on both sides of the altitude milestone.





Day 11: Ganzi - Bamei - Zheduo Mountain - Kangding - Ya'an - Chengdu
[D2 Timeline] Departing from Ganzi Prefecture at 8:00, via National Highway 317, China Panda Avenue, National Highway 318, Ya'an Ye Expressway, Jingkun Expressway, the whole journey is 640 kilometers, about 11 hours. I was on the road all day, because I drove the northern Tibet line 317 last November, Chengdu-Qamdo. You can refer to ?????? Travel Notes [Driving the 317 National Highway on the Northern Sichuan-Tibet Line, crossing the Hengduan Mountains, re-taking the road of Jinzhu Mami, interpreting Jiangda, Tibet]


[The author has something to say] There is a kind of person who, seeing the beautiful scenery, can forget about food and tea. What a coincidence, I just happen to be this kind of person. In the 11 days of the Northern Sichuan-Tibet Line, 9 days were on the way by self-driving. In line with the principle of "just solve it at noon, cheat your stomach! You must eat well at night." During the 9-day self-driving tour, I barely ate for 2 days. Although I prepared a lot of snacks, I didn't really want to eat them. The most amazing thing was the day I went to see Mount Sapu, probably because I was lucky enough to be accompanied by beautiful scenery from morning to night, and the whole car did not think of "lunch". On the way back, I mostly ate noodles and Chaoshou at noon. Sometimes I didn’t eat because I was a little motion sick due to the long-term car ride. I relied on the orange peels to overcome the motion sickness.

Afterword


It took 11 days to experience the "bullet road", "washing board road" and "traffic jam", and finally completed the "anti-travel north Tibet line 317". After the 11th of last year, I started from Chengdu and took the 317 line in northern Tibet, passing through Shimian, Bamei, Dege, Qamdo, and Jiangda. The two-year trip to the northern Tibet line has fulfilled my dream of Tibet. National Highway 317 in late autumn, the scenery is picturesque. Put your bags on your back and go to the distance, the holy paradise that you dream of.