【Time】2021.9.29-10.10
【journey】
D0 9.29 Fly from Shanghai to Kunming, place: Kunming
D1 9.30 Flight from Kunming to Lugu Lake, Lugu Lake-Muli County, accommodation: Muli
D2 10.1 Dingdong Haizi, Kangwu Temple, Changhaizi, Muli Temple, Mana Chajin, accommodation: Mana Chajin
D3 10.2 Mana Tea Gold - Daocheng, Overnight: Jinzhu Town
D4 10.3 Daocheng-Litang-Genie, Xiazetong Village, Eye of Genie, Genie Mountain, lodging: Genie Naiganduo Village
D5 10.4 New Lenggu Temple, Old Lenggu Temple, Genie-Batang, Place: Batang
D6 10.5 Batang - Babagou, Babahai, Dongba Village, - Gaiyu - Baiyu, place: Baiyu
D7 10.6 Baiyu-Ganbai Road-G317, Tongcui Lake, accommodation: Ganzi
D8 10.7 Cuoka Lake, Zhayi Temple, Overnight: Xinlong
D9 10.8 Larima Town, place: Daofu
D10 10.9 Qimei Township, Jiayilacuo, Hongmuhaizi-Dangling Village-Danba, place: Danba
D11 10.10 Danba-Xiaojin-Siguniang Mountain-Chengdu, Chengdu to Shanghai
D1 9.30 Flight from Kunming to Lugu Lake, Lugu Lake-Muli County, accommodation: Muli
Ninglang Lugu Lake Airport
This airport is really small, there is only one luggage conveyor belt, but the speed is quite fast.
lugu lake
Lugu Lake is still so beautiful. I visited it five years ago, and it was also a sunny day. The blue water is hideously blue, and the water surface looks like a mirror. In fact, we just want to choose a good-looking road to Muli, but as long as we pass by, we still need to charge 70 yuan for tickets. In fact, there is no ticket for entering Lugu Lake from Muli.
Lunch: Chengdu Impression Restaurant
A restaurant in Lugu Lake. I chose two of the three signature dishes, and the boss patted his chest and said that if you are not satisfied with the signature dishes, you don't need to pay.
Juewei mashed potatoes, the taste is really delicate, and the taste is very good.
Diving fish, fresh and tender, delicious.
I also ate the skittish flowers with local characteristics.
baked beans
It is said that relying on selling baked potatoes, people have bought suites, which shows how good the business is.
4 yuan each, very primitive roasting method, the potatoes are a bit crunchy, I still prefer the glutinous flour. I also want to dip some chili noodles, which is really spicy.
D2 10.1 Dingdong Haizi, Kangwu Temple, Changhaizi, Muli Temple, Mana Chajin, accommodation: Mana Chajin
Ding Dong Hai Zi
Driving on the mountain road for more than an hour, you can see a sea of clouds from the outside of the valley, but when you arrive at Haizi, you will be shrouded in a thick fog.
Maybe it is called Dingdong Haizi because the sound of cow bells ding ding dongdong can be heard on the other side of the river.
The moment when the morning fog dissipated was so psychedelic. From the other side, I couldn't see at all until it gradually became clear. All I had to do was wait.
breakfast
A shop on the side of the road can't be called a shop, it's just a family.
Rice noodles with fried sauce, the taste is not bad, especially the bone broth, which is very fresh. The corn is peeled and roasted, it is very fragrant.
Kangwu Temple
The second largest temple in Muli is actually not big, but the carvings on the building are very exquisite, and the gorgeousness of the main hall reveals the simplicity, which is the trace of time.
Changhaizi
The mountain road turns a little motion sickness, surrounded by mountains, and the water is very blue.
Herdsman's yak milk
It turns out that yak milk is naturally sweet, and the sweetness is relatively high, as if sugar has been added.
The butter tea here is also very fragrant. I didn't know that butter tea can have such a strong milk flavor, and it was the first time I saw hand-made butter tea.
I forgot what the name of the dairy product is, a bit sour and astringent, like lumpy yogurt, but it feels very nutritious.
Muli Temple
It is much larger than the Kangwu Temple, a temple of the Yellow Sect.
The exterior is resplendent and magnificent, and the color inside the hall is very new. It can be seen that it is often being maintained and repaired.
There are many scriptures on the second floor.
There are still many ruins around the main hall.
Mana Tea Gold
Perfect from sunset to starry sky to sunrise.
At 8:30 in the evening, the Milky Way can be clearly seen, and the sky is full of stars when you look up, and meteors often pass by.
At sunrise at the Mana Chajin Observation Deck, you can see the Rizhao Jinshan, which is 11 snow-capped mountains above 5,000 meters above sea level, as well as three layers of cloud seas and halo belts. Mai Yong, Xia Nuoduoji Dongpo, Xian Nairi. The price is living at a place above 4500 meters, no electricity, no water, no signal, really frozen like a dog, but the whole process of seeing the sunrise is really very shocking, it is worth it!
The viewing platform has not yet been developed and you can drive up directly.
Mana Chajin Accommodation: Tibetan House
His house is just below the viewing platform, and it takes only a few minutes to drive.
There are many standard guest rooms at home, but there is no electricity or running water. If there are too many people, it may generate electricity for two or three hours, and then we have to rely on flashlights. It’s okay to have no electricity, but no water means you can’t wash your hands. What's worse is that the toilet is across the road and it's dry toilet.
D3 10.2 Mana Tea Gold - Daocheng, Overnight: Jinzhu Town
The road condition from Mana Chajin to Daocheng was not good, the dust was flying all over the place, and it was driving on the mountainside of the canyon, feeling that the road to Shu was difficult.
On the way to Genie, I met a golden forest, and I already felt the autumn.
D4 10.3 Daocheng-Litang-Genie, Xiazetong Village, Eye of Genie, Genie Mountain, lodging: Genie Naiganduo Village
The scenery from Daocheng to Genie is quite good, and there are several viewing platforms along the way.
After entering Genie, the first place to arrive is Xiazetong Village, which is Ding Zhen's hometown. It is impossible to meet Ding Zhen, but Ding Zhen's hometown is really beautiful. There is a log cabin in Xiazetong Village, facing the Genie Mountain, the location is good. In fact, there are still many choices of accommodation, and there are new and better hotels.
The Eye of Genie, the Divine Mountain of Genie
I didn't bring a plane, so the eyes of Genie only look a little bit like eyes.
But here is a good place to watch the sunset and sunrise of Gnei Mountain, because there are reflections.
When I went, there were still people playing horse racing, which was very rustling.
The autumn colors of the mountains, forests and valleys in front of you are comparable to Kanas in Xinjiang.
Genie Accommodation: Neganduo Village
For a newly opened accommodation, it is very good to be able to find accommodation with such conditions in this village. I have prepared for hardship in advance.
The room was clean, normal standard room. The public bathroom has hot water, because it is an electric water heater, and all the hot water is heated by this water heater, so it is difficult to take a bath, and I am not ready to wash it.
At night, there are villagers dancing, which feels like a local square dance, and some even put on national costumes, which is very lively.
But this accommodation does not provide food, only instant noodles can be bought, the rest is rice and potatoes. There is no breakfast either, only rice can be cooked by yourself, it is recommended to bring some food in.
D5 10.4 New Lenggu Temple, Old Lenggu Temple, Genie-Batang, Place: Batang
After seeing the sunrise of Genie, we went to Xinlanggu Temple, where a blessing ceremony happened to be held, and the main hall was not allowed to be visited, so we did not see the Three Treasures of Genie.
Old Lenggu Temple
You can ride horses from Xinlangu Temple to Old Lenggu Temple. The caravan is at the door, 380 yuan per person. Motorcycles were allowed before, but they were banned due to unsafe conditions. It is said that the caravan is now a formal organization in the scenic spot.
Now there are only two options, horseback riding or hiking. It takes more than an hour one way, most of the roads are not difficult to walk, and a small part of the road is a bit bad.
Lao Lenggu Temple is very close to Genie Mountain. It is a Yellow Sect temple with a history of more than a thousand years. Local people are still used to walking a long way to Lao Lenggu Temple to pray. It becomes even more interesting to meet an explaining uncle by chance. Brother groom also took us along the vertical stone mountain road to drink the magical medicinal spring that can cure stomach problems.
From Genie to Batang, it is really a heavenly road, the scenery is very beautiful, we are the only car on the road, like a dream, the pass is more than 4900 meters, it is a bit floating to get off the car to take a photo.
Genie Nanxian is so beautiful.
D6 10.5 Batang - Babagou, Babahai, Dongba Village, - Gaiyu - Baiyu, place: Baiyu
baba sea
The water color of Babahai is more pure and transparent than Jiuzhaigou, like a gem. It is said that whether it is sunny or rainy, it is such a highly saturated blue-green color.
Dongba Village
From Babahai to Dongba Village, it took more than two hours to drive the high-altitude gravel mountain road. Some sections of the road were made of poor stone roads. There are really people deep in the mountains. The location of the village is amazing from the top down, surrounded by mountains, and the sun just shines on this small and gentle hillside. Hu Bayi will definitely think that the feng shui here is good. There are more than 20 people in the village, who live by raising yaks and digging caterpillar fungus. The villagers are very simple, and maybe living in seclusion is just like that. There is also Xiba Village below Dongba Village. Look at it, but it is actually two roads away.
This is a place that should not be disturbed, but I feel that the people inside want to go out and be known. The villagers came to welcome us when they saw us entering the village, and finally took us to the main road by motorcycle. In fact, it was quite strenuous to walk up.
They welcome foreign tourists from the bottom of their hearts. Several young people said that they can provide accommodation, where they can eat yak meat, barbecue, yak milk, etc., and enjoy the joy of Tibetan homes. In fact, transportation is the main problem. They said that they can be responsible for picking up and dropping off at Babagou or the county town. I hope that this village, which is as beautiful as an oil painting, still maintains such a rare original style and original intention after being noticed by everyone.
Baiyu County is really well built, the buildings are neat and tidy, clean and tidy, there are murals on the walls, and the temples on the mountains can be seen in the distance.
Dinner: Pingtouge Restaurant
I found it randomly near the accommodation, but I didn't expect it to be delicious.
Boiled beef, spicy and delicious, the meat slices are very tender, and there are many side dishes.
Green pepper meat slices, very fragrant and tasty.
The fish-flavored eggplant looks oily but tastes soft.
D7 10.6 Baiyu-Ganbai Road-G317, Tongcui Lake, accommodation: Ganzi
Ganbai Road-G317
Ganbai Road has beautiful scenery all the way, from the river ditch to the forest to the grassland to the snow mountain, and the G317 is also very beautiful.
Passing through Lalongcuo National Wetland Park, the attractions are still under development.
I was going to Ase Village in Yinduo Township to see the Danxia landform, but the scenic spot has just been repaired and the road has not been opened to the public.
Tongcui Lake
At a glance, there are three lakes with different colors. The one in the middle can only be regarded as a pond, because when viewed with a drone, there is actually another lake in the distance, but it is blocked by mountains and cannot be reached by walking.
High-altitude lakes are always so attractive, transparent like glass.
Dinner: Chengdu Family Restaurant
It is an 11-year-old store. The store is very large, but it looks a bit deserted. The owner is from Chengdu. He admitted that the epidemic has had a great impact on the business, and the more abundant tourist routes have led to the dispersion of passenger flow.
The taste is quite good.
The pork ribs are roasted with potatoes, the meat is not a little bit airy, very delicious, and the potatoes are soft and tasty.
Stir-fried liver and waist, a famous dish in Sichuan, but only the liver without the waist, it is also delicious.
Homemade tofu, made of pot gas.
D8 10.7 Cuoka Lake, Zhayi Temple, Overnight: Xinlong
Lake Tsoka
Tsoka Lake needs a car to drive up the mountain. Although there is no door, someone will stop you and charge you 10 yuan per person and 20 yuan per car.
The reflection of Tsoka Lake is very beautiful. It is suitable for picnics and afternoon tea by the lake. The temple is the Nyingma Red Sect.
Zai Temple
After crossing the mountains to Zhayi Temple, there is a road sign at the entrance, but there is no road sign on the fork road behind, so I drove the wrong way, and it took about an hour to drive on the mountain road. There is a very small road going down, the road is not very good, it takes about five to ten minutes to walk there, and of course there is no sign.
Zayi Temple was built on the cliff, which lasted more than 800 years. This place was originally the place where the eminent monk Tashi Jiangcuo practiced in seclusion. At present, there is a lama who stays to watch the temple, but the lama is not allowed to enter, and he did not see the well-preserved mural in the legend.
D9 10.8 Larima Town, place: Daofu
Rajma Town
From Xinlong to Larima Town, when there is a rush to repair the road, it takes a few hours to send a letter. But in the future, this road will be quite good, and it will be built according to the national road standard.
The Larima Grassland is very beautiful. It is said that there are wild flowers all over the ground in July and August, and the color of the flowers changes every 15 days. When you are hesitant to choose the most beautiful spot to take a photo, you drive and find that the grassland is over, and so is life.
A village on the grassland in Larima Town is being built with assistance from Taizhou, and it will become a mature scenic spot in five years, with starry sky rooms, grass skiing, etc. at that time. The characteristic is the stone Tibetan village. At the entrance of the village is a large statue of Guru Rinpoche, and the mantra of Guru Rinpoche is engraved on the mountain, so the whole village is from the Nyingma sect.
At present, a viewing platform on the mountain is almost built, and you can see the whole picture of the village.
It is actually very close from Lajma to Daofu, more than an hour's drive, and the road conditions on the mountain roads are also good.
Dinner: Himalayan Kitchen
The decoration is very Tibetan style. After so many days of life in a small village, this restaurant looks really exaggerated.
There are not many dishes, and the menu is for an iPad.
Yogurt, very thick, the kind that is homemade and very sour.
The beef is covered with a quilt, and the cake is good. The beef inside is rolled and eaten with side dishes. The side dishes include onions, potatoes, etc. The portion is quite large.
Ghee mushrooms are very fragrant, a bit like baked snails.
Potato pie, mashed potatoes are wrapped in the pie, delicious.
Stir-fried bacon with mushrooms has a strong taste, both mushrooms and bacon are good.
D10 10.9 Qimei Township, Jiayilacuo, Hongmuhaizi-Dangling Village-Danba, place: Danba
Qimei Township is full of water and grass, and the scenery is beautiful along the way, passing a magnificent temple.
Jiayi Lacuo
At the foot of the mountain in Jiayilacuo, there are people blocking the road to charge. They are only allowed to take their motorcycles up the mountain, and the charge is 120 yuan. In fact, this off-road vehicle is no problem at all. The road is very easy to walk on foot. It looks like four or five kilometers, and you can choose when you have plenty of time. Walking, because it is also very beautiful along the way.
The water color of Jiayilacuo is emerald green, and the autumn colors are charming, which makes people feel refreshed and happy.
Hongmu Haizi
It is more than 20 kilometers away from Jiayilacuo. This Haizi is actually deep in the grassland of a herdsman's house. The road is too wild.
The motorcycle took me into the depths of the grassland, and the horse took me into the pile of rocks. I had to walk the last part by myself, and finally saw the quiet Hongmu Haizi. Groundhogs were also seen in the prairie. The herdsmen were so enthusiastic, they invited us to drink yak milk and then invited us to eat. It was a pleasure to eat ghee for nothing. The ghee was delicious.
There is nothing to see in Haizi itself, so it is not recommended to go, because the road that the horse walks is too dangerous, and the horse stumbles when walking in the pile of rocks, and it is nervous to be carried on the back. On the contrary, I think the experience of the herdsmen's house is very good.
Dinner in Danba: Wanglaowu Restaurant
I chose a 10-year-old store, which is also very close to the accommodation. It is on the second floor, and it is easy to miss it when you walk by.
Ordered a fish with tofu in it, I thought it was too spicy and the taste was mediocre.
Wild Mushroom Pork Rib Soup is a big bowl, the soup is very fresh, the ribs and mushrooms are also very honest and delicious.
Stir-fried shredded pork with eggs, put a lot of seasonings, it is very fresh, it is the freshness of the seasonings.
D11 10.10 Danba-Xiaojin-Siguniang Mountain-Chengdu, Chengdu to Shanghai
Danba did not arrange scenic spots all the way to Chengdu. I took a look at the gate of Siguniang Mountain. The weather was bad and I could see a little snow mountain.
When you arrive in Chengdu, check in an internet celebrity landmark first, the giant panda of IFS, you can see the panda’s buttocks downstairs, and you can see the front of the giant panda on the terrace on the 7th floor. Many people are queuing up to take a group photo. Let’s just take a picture next to it. .
Panyang City
A time-honored restaurant recommended by the must-eat list.
The duck in oil is delicious, the duck is very fresh, tender and tasty, a bit like sauced duck, but drier than sauced duck.
Braised pork ribs, pig ears, chicken hearts, chicken, dried tofu, the taste is not bad, it is worthless.
The goose intestines fried with fresh peppers are very numb. The goose intestines are well processed and crispy, but the taste is not very delicious.
Healthy stir-fry, yam, snow peas, black fungus, carrots, I just want to eat some vegetarian dishes.
Brown sugar pot helmet, the inner layer is a bit stiff, but the taste is okay.
After the meal, I saw many people queuing up to buy buns.
Xiyuecheng Tan Douhua
Eat something sweet after eating salty.
Bingzui Douhua, 7 yuan, is the taste of fermented rice. The bean curd has a strong bean flavor, and the taste is thicker than that of Shanghai Dou Hua, but the taste is not bad.
Brown sugar bean curd, this is a bit of a show, it is hot, looks like soy sauce, tastes like brown sugar.
Tianfu International Airport
It is more than 60 kilometers away from the urban area, which is quite far, but the transportation is convenient. Line 18 is direct, and it takes more than an hour to arrive.
This airport is very big and new, there are not many people, and the security check speed is relatively fast. The facilities are very advanced, there is no contact with face swiping all the way, and the electronic screen at the door of the bathroom has layout and congestion.
Finally, end this travel note with the delicious Sichuan cuisine that I have tasted these days
