written in front
I have been to Yunnan countless times, but it is the first time I have arrived in Pu'er. It was only after I arrived that I realized that the impression of Pu'er in the past is really too thin. The strong tea fragrance conceals more colors of Pu'er. This time, I really walked in, and walked into the unique fragrance of Pu'er, which came from the depths of time and the earth, and only then did I know what I had missed unintentionally.
In eight days, we walked slowly in Pu'er, we hiked through the depths of the primeval forest, had picnics and tea breaks among the trees, had close contact with animals, learned the appearance of gibbons, leaped through the jungle, and then stayed in the forest; Lingering on the remains of the ancient horse road, the sound of horseshoes, coming from the depths of thousands of years, the mountain bells ringing, and the fragrance of Pu'er tea; we stopped at Lao Dabao, listening to a moving song of the Lahu people, drinking A bowl of delicious chicken porridge; we touched the ancient and primitive legends of the Wa people in the mysterious Longmoye Holy Land in Mengsuo Longtan; we walked into the only remaining ancient ritual buildings of the Dai people in China at the Menglian Xuanfu Department, and looked back at the glory of the Tusi era .
There are too many reasons to be drunk in Pu'er in the natural wild and luxurious forest, the long-lasting fragrance of Pu'er, and the cottage with ethnic customs, but it seems that there is no need for any reason.
Practical information
Eat in Pu'er
In Pu'er, delicacies need to be carefully arranged to be tasted in all directions, not because of rarity, but because there are too many types, and it is impossible to eat them in just a few days. The dendrobium and wild mushrooms that are abundant in Pu'er, and the foods with ethnic characteristics such as Dai, Lahu, and Wa, are made in different ways, but they are the same primitive and simple. In Pu'er, there are different delicacies every day. When I got home, I gained three catties properly.
Food at Red Panda Manor
The food at Red Panda Manor combines local ethnic characteristics with modern cooking methods, which is the most suitable choice for modern people. Whether it is the rich star-rated buffet breakfast in the manor, or the special dustpan set meal, three-treasure banquet, ecological small hot pot, and barbecue dinner at Tianbi Restaurant, they are all works perfected by the chef after repeated attempts, and each has its own characteristics. Seasonal mountain wild vegetables, ecological farm meat, and cooking with mountain springs are an excellent choice for residents of Red Panda Manor and tourists in scenic spots.
Dai Jingyuan hand pilaf
Tea-horse ancient city special meals, peacock banquet in Dai Jingyuan, and hand-picked rice with Dai characteristics, when you come to Pu’er, whether you like it or not, you will always try it once. It doesn't matter whether you like the hand-picked rice with such a high value, whether you like it or not.
Lahu cottage
The Lahu specialties, the ecological Lahu chicken porridge, the tree tomatoes that were shamelessly packed away, and the beautiful Lahu toast song during the banquet, the taste was forgotten, but the atmosphere of that night was unforgettable.
Menglian Wa Sang Valley Restaurant
The last dinner in Pu’er was at the Menglian Wa Sang Valley Restaurant. The restaurant is located in the park where 400 acres of edible mulberry leaves are planted. Fresh edible mulberry leaves are paired with the traditional cooking techniques of the Wa people. It is a special full mulberry feast.
Stay in Pu'er
Pu’er tourism has come from behind, and the hardware facilities in various places are complete. Although this time I went deep into Lancang and Menglian, the basic accommodation is no problem at all, especially the wild luxury resort hotels headed by the Red Panda Manor Forest Hotel and the Wa Village Rice Field Manor in Ximeng. , worth experiencing.
Red Panda Manor Forest Hotel
Red Panda Manor is located 37 kilometers southeast of Simao District, Pu'er City, close to Pu'er Sun River National Park Rhinoceros Scenic Area. The manor wooden house grows in the forest, without urban pollution, the air quality is good, and there are wild red pandas. The manor is in harmony with nature. Integrate into one, in the Red Panda Manor, you can sleep in the forest and participate in various forest experiences, which is an excellent choice for forest vacation.
Cha Fu Boutique Hotel
Cha Fu Boutique Hotel is located in Pu'er City. The newly renovated hotel is surrounded by the fragrance of Pu'er tea. The transportation is convenient and the price is favorable. This time, I came out of the forest and stayed here in order to walk the ancient tea-horse road the next day.
Lancang Hailan Hotel
Lancang Hailan Hotel is a hotel with ethnic characteristics. The hotel is located in the middle of Minzu Street in Lancang County, adjacent to Minzu Street. It only takes five minutes to reach Lahu Cultural Square, and only one hour to Jingmai Mountain, Ximeng, and Menglian. It is comfortable Clean and a good place to rest on the way. The hotel is equipped with a tea room, where you can take a leisure tea break and taste the fragrance of tea.
Ximeng Secret Area Wa Village Rice Field Manor
The Wa village-style resort integrated into the life culture of the local aboriginal people, the first rice field swimming pool boutique hotel in Yunnan. Enjoy a modern getaway.
Traveling in Pu'er
Pu'er is located in the southwestern part of Yunnan. "One city connects three countries, and one river connects five neighbors." Airplanes, railways, and expressways are unimpeded. The combination of Pu'er Simao Airport and Kunming Airport has shortened the time from all parts of the country to Pu'er.
After arriving in Pu'er, it is recommended to drive by yourself. Wukong Self-Drive has set up self-driving tour service stores in Yunnan airports, high-speed railway stations, star hotels, tourist attractions, etc., providing self-driving on arrival and returning cars in other places, which is a more convenient choice for traveling in Pu'er. Wukong self-driving is paired with a mobile phone tour Yunnan APP, which can solve the air tickets, accommodation, tickets, and shopping during the tour. You can plan the whole process and travel Pu'er easily in one stop.
itinerary details
DAY 1
Arrive in Pu'er, land at Simao Airport
Accommodation: Red Panda Manor Forest Hotel (hotel pick-up)
DAY 2
Morning: Singing and dancing interaction at the performance hall of Pu'er Sun River National Forest Park
Lunch: Tianbi Ecological Package Experience
Afternoon: Tour of Rhinoceros Ping Scenic Area
Dinner: Little Panda Manor Ecological Hot Pot
Evening: Forest Experience Center - Night Observation
Accommodation: Red Panda Manor Forest Hotel
DAY3
Morning: 6km forest hike + jungle crossing
Lunch: Outdoor picnic experience
Afternoon: tent lunch break + tree tea time
Dinner: BBQ dinner at Tianbi restaurant + singing and dancing experience
Accommodation: Red Panda Manor Forest Hotel
DAY4
Morning: Good Morning Yoga + Meditation + Pu'er Tea Making Experience
Lunch: Three Treasures Banquet at Tianbi Restaurant
Afternoon: fly over the jungle
Go to Pu'er Tea Horse Ancient City Tourist Town
Dinner: Dai Jingyuan hand pilaf
Evening: Night Market in Puer Tea Horse Ancient City Tourist Town
Accommodation: Cha Fu Boutique Hotel
DAY5
Morning: Pu'er Tea Horse Road Tourist Scenic Spot
Lunch: Jinqiao Garden (Gucheng Branch)
Afternoon: Lapsang Ancient Tree Black Tea Tea Break
To Lancang County, Puer City
Dinner: Lahu Shanzhai Dinner
Accommodation: Lancang Hailan Hotel
DAY6
Morning: Visit Old Dabao Music Town
Afternoon: Go to Ximeng County, Puer City
Check-in: Ximeng Secret Area Wa Village Rice Field Manor
DAY7
Morning: Visit Mengsuo Longtan in Ximeng
To Menglian County, Pu'er City
Afternoon: Visit the Menglian Propaganda Department
Dinner: Menglian Wa Sang Valley Restaurant
DAY8
Return from Lancang Airport
DAY 1 Red Panda Manor Forest Hotel
From Tianjin to Kunming, and then from Kunming to Pu'er, after a long flight in the air, what awaits us is the natural embrace of the Red Panda Manor, a bowl of hot rice noodles in the manor, and a wooden house growing in the forest. The beginning of the journey was an amazing encounter with the Red Panda Manor.
Red deer wandering on the highway, red pandas haunting the forest, 360-degree fully transparent villas, among the forests, listening to the chirping of birds and insects, and the sounds of nature. Almost as soon as I walked in, I fell in love with this place, and I was not in a hurry to explore. I just rested in the wooden villa, drank a cup of tea, and listened to the rain.
Outside the house is the original nature, you can breathe freely; inside the house, it is a modern configuration, you can take a leisurely vacation. There are antique racks carved from old ship wood, collection desks, bathtubs in front of floor-to-ceiling windows, and the forest outside the windows. Just in the wooden house, I can't help but empty myself and start to relax completely.
DAY 2 Pu'er Sun River National Forest Park Performing Arts Center - Rhinoceros Ping Scenic Spot - Night Observation
In the performing arts hall, listen to the singing of elves in the forest and watch the singing and dancing performances of ethnic minorities. There are 14 ethnic minorities living in Pu'er, and it is a place where many ethnic groups gather. The singing and dancing skills of ethnic minorities have long been deeply rooted in the hearts of the people. However, the performing arts field in the forest is more natural and mysterious. It is even more different.
Songs and dances of various ethnic minorities are staged here, with different styles, but they all tell the eternal theme. The singing and dancing right in front of your eyes can easily infect people's hearts. After the singing and dancing, the primary school students who studied in the school brought us a vigorous chorus and a bamboo pole dance with national characteristics.
In Rhinoceros Flat, you can get in touch with various animals and plants and experience the wildness of nature. This is the largest oasis on the Tropic of Cancer, the last animal and plant paradise in China, domineering rhinos, kung fu gibbons, cute red pandas, unshakable owls... are our initial yearning for nature.
In the Rhinoceros Ping Scenic Area, the first contact is the rhinoceros. The Pu'er Sun River Basin used to be an area where rhinos were widely distributed. Yet the land has been rhino-free for 80 years, since the last two rhinos were killed in 1933. Today, rhinos from South Africa are here to breed and breed in the wild.
Wild salamanders, a rare species that survived and continued in the same era as dinosaurs, live in hiding among the rocky crevices of mountain streams; the only extant woody fern, alsophila spinulosa, grows in the damp places on both sides of the valley; "Chinese Kung Fu" is practiced on treetops and branches; red pandas are wandering on unnamed hills; egrets are resting in wetlands... This is not a zoo, this is the home of animals, the land where animals grow wild.
In the evening, I followed Mr. Afeng to the depths of the forest for night observation, and encountered snakes and various insects. In the dark night, wearing a headlamp, walking slowly, constantly looking at the animals and plants on both sides of the road, and more, listening to my own voice. It seems to be too long, obsessed with walking, but forgetting the plants and trees around me. How long have you not walked in the dark, how long have you not observed a grass, a tree flower, a worm, how long have you not looked up at the starry sky...
DAY3 Forest trekking, jungle crossing—outdoor picnic, tree tea—barbecue dinner, singing and dancing with dinner
In the morning, go through the forest, and learn about the plants, herbs, poisons, and edible weeds in the forest with Teacher Wenfeng. Mr. Afeng is the chief forest experiencer of Pu'er National Park. He was born in Pu'er and grew up in Pu'er. He liked to travel in the mountains and forests with his father since he was a child. Now, he has become a guide, bringing tourists into the mountains and forests, and showing us those magical things. Chinese herbal medicine. However, the student was ignorant and listened with great interest on the way, but in the end he only remembered the Nine Deaths Resurrection Grass and Flying Dragon Palm Blood from the martial arts.
This is the most basic jungle traversal, focusing on knowledge of medicine, full of fun, and is the choice of beginners. However, what I am most looking forward to is the ultimate version of the jungle crossing. For a whole day, I will walk into the depths of the virgin forest, be with various wild animals, have close contact with leeches, follow the teacher, and follow the footsteps of the predecessors on foot. This is a legendary experience. Due to various reasons, the wish was not fulfilled this time, so it became the reason for coming again next time.
In the afternoon, walk out of the jungle and have a picnic in the mountains. The hot small hot pot in the mountains, the fragrant hand-picked rice, and the most original taste of food in the most natural environment, this comfort cannot be replicated. It was also during the picnic that I really understood the essence of the pilaf, which is the wisdom of Pu'er people's life.
After dinner, listen to the rain in the tent. The tent base set up in the glade became an excellent place for us to rest in the afternoon. Falling asleep in the drizzle is the best way to relax after hiking. The journey has never been in a hurry, but on this day, I took a nap in the tent in the forest. This trip to Pu'er also taught me to slow down and travel slowly.
Afternoon tea among the trees is the most pleasant gesture. Fruits, desserts, juices, and then, follow the teacher, learn to make a cup of coffee, and use the wooden boards picked up from the forest to carve a woodblock print of your own. An afternoon passed like this, as if we hadn't done anything, and we were not in a hurry, just enjoying the tranquility and peace in the forest. The footsteps stopped, but the heart was filled.
In the evening, there is a barbecue on the roof, singing and dancing to accompany the meal. In the night in the forest, there are wine, meat, songs and dances, so we write the most Pu'er stories together. The smog on the roof is like the smell of fireworks in the world. We sat side by side on the long table and tasted delicious dishes. When the singing resounds in the sky, and when the bonfire lights up the night sky, our hearts dance even more. However, the ones who know how to play the most are the brothers and sisters of ethnic minorities, blowing beer and dancing, which is the wanton and free and easy that we can't learn.
DAY4 Good Morning Yoga + Meditation + Pu'er Tea Making Experience - Flying Over the Jungle
In Red Panda Manor, time passes slowly. In the forest, experience a different life, or, do nothing, return to your heart in nature. On the last day of the manor, it was raining heavily. I followed Mr. Afu to do yoga. There were no complicated movements. It was easy to learn and easy to understand. However, it took us one morning to open the door to yoga for us.
Mr. A Fu used to be a teacher of the Middle School Attached to Peking University for 15 years. He visited more than 1,500 schools and came to Pu’er once. He decided that this place was really suitable for him. In the end, he sold a courtyard house in Beijing and settled in Pu’er. Later, He even became a star experiencer of Pu'er National Forest Park, taking us to experience the forest in the most relaxing way through yoga, meditation, and running.
After yoga, experience tea making in the handicraft workshop, stir fry, make tea, use your hands and feet, experience in depth, and feel the fragrance of Pu'er tea. Homemade Pu'er tea will not be really delicious, but taking away the tea cake with your own name on it, storing it at home, and opening it after ten or even twenty years after the precipitation of time, this in itself is a A romantic affair.
In the afternoon, experience the classic forest project and fly over the jungle. In the jungle, different levels are set between different trees, and we, using professional equipment, walk through the sky and zipline. This is a kind of group building project. I have experienced it many times, but it is the first time to experience such a large-scale and high-standard jungle leap. Compared with this, the previous one can only be regarded as a children's version.
Jungle Leap, incarnate as a gibbon, fly from one tree to another in the natural jungle. However, without the kung fu of a gibbon, we can only use professional protective equipment to challenge step by step and surpass step by step. My favorite is the zipline after the challenge, like a reward after a long-term homework, an instant leap, no discomfort, no panic, just let yourself go in the jungle. This is also the only time on this trip, put down the camera, just for the purest leap. Not a single photo was left, and the memory of the body was imprinted for a long time.
DAY5 Pu'er Tea-Horse Ancient Road Tourist Scenic Spot—Black Tea Tea Break of Zhengshan Ancient Trees
The ancient tea-horse road, just these four words, reveals a sense of thickness. Generations of people, teams of caravans, have walked hard on the ancient road, starting from the hometown of Puer tea, extending to the four directions, passing through the densely packed Grand Canyon group of the Hengduan main mountain range to the north, and reaching the Himalayan plateau; flowing eastward in the land of Hunan and Chu ; Go west across Myanmar and Laos; go south to Thailand and Vietnam. The rolling ancient tea-horse road records the history of human commerce and trade for thousands of years.
Today's Tea-Horse Ancient Road, there are no endless caravans and crisp and melodious horse bells, only the ancestors' footprints and horseshoe marks engraved on the Tea-Horse Ancient Road. This time, when I came to the ancient tea-horse road scenic spot in Pu'er Lameipo, I didn't go to see the restoration scene, but just lingered on the remains of the ancient road, thinking about the caravans and the crisp and clear horse bells in the days when the tea industry was booming. However, touching the moss-covered ancient road, I think more about the stories about tea and horses, blood and tears, life and death, and the sadness and tenacity submerged in time.
The site of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road in Lameipo, Pu’er is the starting point of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road along the Yunnan-Tibet Line, the source of Pu’er tea and the assembly point of caravans. It is an important section in the north-south direction of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road. , The best ecological section along the road. Walk into the ancient tea-horse city, take a scenic battery car into the mountains, and slowly walk into the ancient tea-horse road.
The scenic spot inherits the history and culture of Pu'er, and intends to restore and revitalize the ancient tea-horse road from multiple aspects such as architectural landscape, folk custom display, and scene interpretation. However, even if there is nothing, just an ancient road is enough to attract people's hearts.
Walk out of the long time of the Ancient Tea-Horse Road, then stay in the Ancient Tea-Horse City, watch a tea art performance at the ancient tree black tea in Zhengshan, drink a cup of ancient black tea, enter the world of Pu'er, and feel the distant tea fragrance.
DAY6 Old Dabao Music Town—Wa Village Rice Field Manor in Ximeng Secret Area
From Simao to Lancang, after the long mountain road, what awaits us is the most beautiful encounter. Lao Dabao, a Lahu village located on the border of Yunnan and Burma, was a place I fell in love with after a glimpse in the documentary "The Great Village". This time, it has become a roadside scenery, waiting for us to open the door. enter.
Laodabao is located in Menggen Village, Jiujing Township, southeast of Lancang County. It is a typical Lahu cottage. The traditional Lahu buildings in the village are well preserved, and it is the protection and inheritance of the national intangible cultural heritage "Mupa Mipa". One of the bases is where "Happy Lahu" was sung. Only being good at singing and dancing can't fully express it. Music is the soul of Lao Dabao. Lusheng is their musical instrument that has been handed down to this day.
Walk into Lao Dabao, listen to a moving folk song, drink a bowl of delicious chicken porridge, and take a look at the traditional slow life. When I arrived, it was noon, and I didn't hear the singing, but I saw the smoke from the cottage. Walking slowly in the cottage, without disturbing their lives, just quietly pressing the shutter, recording the current moment, leaving behind the original life of the cottage. Walking into the cottage, eating a traditional Lahu lunch, bowls of chicken porridge wanton fragrance, become the most profound memory on the tip of the tongue. After lunch, the teacher of the inheritor of intangible cultural heritage performed Lahu songs and Lusheng. The grandson, who watched the excitement and brought Lusheng to entertain himself, made us feel the prosperity and inheritance of the Shanzhai ethnic culture in the most daily way. If it is a pity that I did not hear the guitar in Lao Dabao, then the Lusheng after the meal is the biggest harvest.
What I like most is the original cottage, and what I am most happy to live in is the hidden resort hotel in the mountains. From Lancang to Ximeng, arrive at the secret place of Wa Village, paddy field swimming pool, virgin forest, wild luxury experience in Wa villages. When I arrived at the rice field manor in Wazhai, a secret place in Ximeng, it was in the afternoon, so I didn’t go anywhere, but just walked around in the secret place, spending half a day.
Forests, lakes, swimming pools, wooden houses, in autumn, the rice by the swimming pool has been harvested, leaving only one bare field. It is not the most beautiful time, but it does not affect our perception at all. It blends in, feeling human and nature, and the primitive culture of the Wa people. Harmony with modern development. Here, you can let yourself go for a vacation, and you can also think about the persistence, inheritance and development of national culture. Perhaps, it will not be so deep, at least, you can also have a superficial understanding of the life of the Wa people.
DAY7 Ximeng Mengsuo Longtan - Menglian Xuanfu Department - Menglian Great Golden Pagoda
Early in the morning, the clouds and mists dispersed, and we walked into Mengsuo Longtan. Mengsuo Longtan is a natural tropical rainforest freshwater lake located in the middle of Mengsuolongtan Nature Reserve. It is regarded as a holy lake by local Wa residents. Just walked in, if you hadn't heard the legend about Mengsuo Longtan, in front of you, there is only a quiet lake and mountains, it is difficult to connect him with the original Wa tribe.
However, when you meet the residents of the Wa people who fetch water early in the morning, when you walk into the mysterious holy land of Longmoye and see more than 3,000 dead bones of ox heads hanging in the depths of the dense forest, you realize that the ancient and primitive legends of the Wa people are within reach.
"Longmoye" is pronounced in the Wa language, "dragon" means forest, and "Moye" means buffalo head, which means a forest holy place where bull heads are hung. Longmoye Holy Land is a primitive religious sacrificial place full of mystery. According to legend, it is The gathering place of the gods. Before liberation, the Wa people in Ximeng worshiped with human heads, and put the hunted heads on the head piles as offerings to the gods. After 1958, after the old custom of headhunting was abandoned, they used cow heads for sacrifice. When there is a major event, a grand cattle plagiarism activity will be held, and the bull's head will be kept in the "Dragon Moye" to pray to the gods for good luck, happiness and well-being. Gradually, there are more and more bull heads in the "Dragon Moye". There are more than 3000 heads.
Before that, I knew very little about the mysterious national culture of the Wa people. However, even if I didn’t witness the mysterious and solemn sacrificial ceremony of the Wa people, I just stood in front of the holy land of Longma and more than 3,000 dead bones of cow heads. It is a deep shock and awe.
From Ximeng to Menglian, come directly to the Menglian Xuanfu Department in the ancient city of Nayun, walk along the red sandstone steps, and walk into the glory of the Tusi era. During the 660 years from 1289 to 1949, 28 generations of Dai chieftains of the Dao family successively served as officials here. The only remaining ancient ritual building of the Dai nationality in China, together with the surrounding Buddhist temples, folk houses, official houses, and official roads, etc. constitute the feudalism of the Dai nationality. A living specimen of the lordship system.
The existing buildings of the Xuanfu Department were rebuilt from the fourth year of Guangxu in the Qing Dynasty to the eighth year of the Republic of China. The entire ancient building complex is a wooden structure, which brings together architectural features such as brackets, cornices, and lattice windows of the Han nationality and dry-column buildings of the Dai nationality. With strong ethnic characteristics, it is a typical representative of the Tusi government office in Qing Dynasty in Yunnan.
Walking in the Xuanfu Department, looking back is Meng Lian's past. When the singing and dancing outside the Xuanfu Department's office sounded, what we saw was the art and life of the Dai people. Songs and dances with different themes are the vocal expression of Dai culture. And we can easily discover the beauty of singing and dancing just by watching the excitement.
Come out from the Xuanfu Department and go straight to Menglian Shrine. The origin of the Menglian Golden Pagoda is closely related to the Menglian Xuanfu Department. The Menglian Xuanfu Department is called "Hehan" in Dai language and is the Golden Palace. A long time ago, people in Menglian felt that there should be a pagoda that complements the Golden Palace, and later they built this pagoda here. Menglian Shwedagon Pagoda was built relatively late, and has not experienced too long a period of time. On the banks of the Nanlei River, the wind blows and the bells ring, but it has the connotation of Buddhism and a different style.
Traveling in Pu'er, there are too many beautiful encounters, and more unrevealed veils have been discovered, waiting for the next encounter. On the last afternoon in Pu'er, after finishing all the itinerary, I met Caixia on the way, as if seeing us off, or making an appointment for the next encounter. Whatever it is, the final journey is gorgeous.