6/2 Chengdu-Xinducheng Kangding Gonggazong Manor
6/3 Xinducheng-Shangri-La Town Daocheng Yading Risong Kampot Hotel
6/5 Shangri-La Town-Deqin Sunyata Resort Hotel
6/7 Deqin-Mangkang Mangkang Songzan Rumei Mountain Residence
6/8 Mangkang-Basu Dora Shenshan Hot Spring Hotel
6/9 Basu-Bomi Zao Hotel
6/10 Bomi-Medog Gela Dandong Hotel
6/11 Medog-Lulang Goncuo Town Linzhi Evergrande Hotel
6/12 Lulang-Linzhi Botai Linzhi Hotel
6/13 Nyingchi-Lhasa Songtsam Quji Linka Hotel
The 1980s was a prosperous era of reportage, and Huang Zongying's "Little Wooden House" was one of them. Her relaxed writing and deep emotions deeply imprinted the mysterious and beautiful place of the persistent female forest scientist and Linzhi in my forgetful head. At that time, when did I think I could go there? Later, the tourism industry developed. Nyingchi, Bomi, and even Medog were often mentioned, but I never included it in my travel plan. First, I was afraid of the hardships of the road. Second, it was difficult to find travel companions. Third, the place to go too much.
Until 5.1 when I learned that a group of five cars was going to drive from Chengdu to Lhasa by myself, the long-hidden little monster in the back of my mind jumped out. But considering that they had planned for a long time, the route, board and lodging had been arranged properly, and they were all old friends, it was not appropriate for me to insert it suddenly, so I pushed the thought back. One day in mid-May, when I was chatting with my mother, elder sister, and son, I mentioned Tibet. The elder sister said that she was too afraid to go because she was afraid that her body would not be able to bear it. I said that I wanted to go there once, regardless of my health. My son said that the two of you should go with their team, what a rare opportunity! I really can't control the little monster. Let the son ask the head of the group if he can add us, and replied that we need a separate car, and it is best to find another one who can drive. I tentatively asked my relative's younger sister, and she was very enthusiastic. The human problem is solved, and the car problem needs to be solved. SZ and YH are relatively reliable, both of which cost less than 7,000 yuan. The daily rental is quite cheap, but returning the car in another place is expensive, and each takes half. One is the Volkswagen Tiguan with 100,000 kilometers, and the other is the Volkswagen Tanyue four-wheel drive with 40,000 kilometers, and finally chose Tanyue. So the trip to Nyingchi was rushed without any plan.
When going to the plateau, you have to make some special preparations. You visit Taobao every day and buy 10 bottles of oxygen; you are afraid that the rented car will break down, so you buy a tow rope; I bought a rain cover for the camera; I was afraid that I would not be able to eat or would not be used to eating, so I bought self-heating rice and canned fish, and I also brought home dried fruit and chocolate. Oxygen can’t get on the plane, and the tow rope is too heavy, so the two items were delivered to Chengdu by express delivery. I placed the order on the 28th, and it arrived on the 30th. The most important thing is that others say that you need to take the anti-hypertensive drug Rhodiola in advance. When you go to the hospital to prescribe the drug, you have to go through many checkpoints, scan the code, measure the temperature, fill in the form, and disinfect. Finally, I saw the doctor and said that there is no Rhodiola. , Nuodikang is a medical insurance drug, and five boxes can be opened at most at one time, which is enough for half a month. I will take it one week in advance and three weeks on the way! And I left after 12 days. The doctor helped me think of an idea and said to open four boxes first, so that I could open it again after ten days. I agreed. Ten days later, I went through many checkpoints and met another doctor who said that Nuo Di Kang would adjust the price, and now I can’t get the goods. I only have 70 pearl pills at my own expense. I hesitated for a long time, and I bought a box for nearly 300 .
The convoy departed from Chengdu on June 2 and planned to arrive in Lhasa on June 13. We arrived in Chengdu ahead of schedule. Considering the location and convenience of living, I found a three-bedroom, two-bathroom B&B near Wuhou Temple. It was very spacious for three people, but the conditions were poor and the sanitation was poor. There was no bottled water or toilet paper. Fortunately, it was delivered after requesting it. On the morning of the 1st, I went to the Heming Tea House in the People’s Park to have breakfast. There were dozens of snacks on the menu, and the waiter suggested buying a 65 yuan set meal. The amount of each of the twenty kinds was very small. Made out, the taste is average.
Then I went to Du Fu Thatched Cottage for a long time, and it took a long time to scan the health code when I entered the door. Now there is an extra procedure everywhere. It's June 1st, and there are no schools, and there are many children with children. In addition, all indoor spaces are not open, so there are more people. At noon, I ate Sichuan hot pot (forgot the name of the store). This chain store is quite large, and there are very few customers. I ordered spicy and non-spicy Yuanyang pot. The driver who sent us said that they would not come to this kind of restaurant to eat hot pot. In the afternoon, we strolled along Chunxi Road, and in the evening someone hosted a banquet for the head of the group. We all followed along and got to know the group members by the way: four old couples over 60, a young couple under 40, Ms. Wang who was nearly 70 and a 50-year-old A middle-aged man. An elderly couple who were supposed to attend couldn't come due to illness, and we happened to replace them, and there were still five cars. We are three prospective old ladies in their fifties, and we are taken care of in the No. 2 car. The team leader gave us oxygen cylinders, walkie-talkies, car number stickers and team uniforms. After dinner, we went to pick up the car and planned to go to the supermarket to buy some food and drink, but was warned by the head of the group that the food and drink were all ready for us, and we didn’t need to buy anything. After picking up the car, we still bought milk, yogurt, bread and fruit (the things we bought were not the same as those given by the group leader, because the three meals a day were too rich, and there were fruit yogurt and desserts in the room, including anti-hyperallergic medicine, every day is support). When we went back to the gate of the community, the guard asked us to park the car on the passage, and took away the keys, saying that we would move the car in case of need.
We set off at 8:00 on the 2nd, moved our luggage downstairs at 7:30, and there was another car behind the car. Ask the doorman to help move the car, the doorman pointed to a box of keys behind him and said, we don't care, you move it yourself. It turned out that such an operation was really beyond imagination. Holding a box of more than a dozen keys, his head was buzzing, not knowing which one belonged to that car. Seeing that it was a Toyota, I looked for one with three rings, got one and tried to open the door, and it hit me, opened the door and then ignited it. I have never driven this kind of car. Hit by someone's car. Carefully refuel and back up the car, the passage is very narrow, my car occupies the middle, and pedestrians on both sides have to pass sideways, and finally backed the car safely to another passage, and we can go. The sweat is almost down. I started late and caught up with the morning rush hour. I had to wait for three red lights at an intersection before passing through. The girl took advantage of this time to stick the car sticker on the rear window. Finally on the Beijing-Kunming Expressway, other cars were already ahead, I chased all the way, and soon the intercom sounded, and then I saw a small motorcade with familiar car logos, and we returned smoothly. Except for the No. 4 car, which is a Grand Cher, the other three are six-cylinder and eight-cylinder Lu Xun. Our little broken car looks shabby, but the car is not good. We are worried.
This road basically goes west along the south line of National Highway 318, turns south into Provincial Highway 217 to Daocheng Yading in the middle, and returns to National Highway 318 from Provincial Highway 214.
Arrive at Luding Bridge at noon, hurried to the bridge and walked around to take pictures, and then ate at a nearby restaurant. In 2004, the family came to the Luding Bridge when they went to the west of Sichuan. Now the bridge has a longitudinal plate, which is safer than before. In fact, the scenery here is not very good, it is just a memorial place of revolutionary history. I still remember that the last time I came here, I climbed Erlang Mountain, and now I have passed through the tunnel. Because of the rush, the chief coordinator decided to eat something simple, and each person had a bowl of Chaoshou and a bowl of noodles. Unexpectedly, more than ten yuan was given to a big bowl, and everyone didn't finish eating in the end. In the afternoon, it became more cloudy. When we arrived at Zheduo Mountain at 4,300 meters, it was very foggy and cold. Here we can overlook Gongga Snow Mountain, the first peak in Sichuan. Today is not enough. After getting off the car and taking pictures, continue on our way.
When we arrived at Juli Temple in the evening, it started to rain. The head of the group asked everyone if they wanted to visit, and someone responded. Five cars entered along the narrow road that only accommodated one car. There are no other tourists in the temple except us. We entered the residence of the monks in the cold rain. There was a stove inside and it was very warm. Everyone invited butter lamps and Hada to the main hall to worship. According to the introduction, there are hundreds of years of Buddhist temples here. The murals and scriptures that have been written for thousands of years, for the "teaching blind" like me, I can't see anything famous, so I just follow the stage. Sister Wang in the regiment was very pious and paid homage seriously. After coming out of the main hall, the rain stopped unexpectedly, and there was still a little blue in the center of the sky. Everyone said that it was Sister Wang's sincerity that moved God. Go back to National Highway 318 and continue on. Various big hotels or photography bases are being built on both sides of the road, basically two or three-story Tibetan-style tube buildings with more than ten or twenty rooms.
Kangding Gonggazong Manor is not far from the center of Xinduqiao Town, and it is our first foothold. It’s just uphill after leaving the national highway. The two-storey buildings of pure Tibetan style are lined up on the hillside, and you have to go up and downhill when you go out. It’s very difficult for those of us who just came to the plateau of more than 3,000 meters from Chengdu. The car is parked below. In the parking lot, an important task of the waiter is to help the guests with their luggage. The manager Nima is handsome and serious. He will be anxious because we use the wrong cup or sit in the wrong seat. We must arrange everything according to the rules. He said that the owner of the hotel is a Tibetan who has studied abroad. No wonder the hotel facilities are very modern. Electric heaters, Yuba heaters, toilets, floor beds and kang tables coexist. Although the dishes are improved Sichuan dishes, they are arranged in the style of Western food. Meals are calculated per head. The surroundings of the hotel are picturesque. If the weather is good, you can see the Gongga Snow Mountain. Every room has a beautiful view. The hotel itself is like a landscape. There is hot water burning on a beautiful large stove in the center of the restaurant, and the chimney on the roof rises The curling smoke adds a touch of vitality and warmth to the vast wilderness. The temperature here is very low, the heating must be turned on inside the house, and cotton-padded clothes must be worn outside.
After breakfast the next day, proceed to Daocheng Yading. I had a headache last night and didn't sleep well. I haven't seen any improvement today. Oxygen inhalation doesn't seem to work, and I don't feel anything after taking the medicine all the time. At least half of the people in the group are uncomfortable, it's just a matter of degree. I was dizzy in the co-pilot, and the weather was overcast. Getting off the car at the 18th bend of Tianlu is like stepping on cotton, feeling flustered and short of breath, after all, the altitude is more than 4,600 meters. Not long after I got back in the car, I started to feel nauseous, and eventually threw up. At noon, each of us had lunch in the car in order to go on the road. Yesterday, the head of the group gave us two big bags of food, mainly snacks, and coffee to refresh us. We ate the bread sausage and some fruit snacks bought in Chengdu. I opened a pack of self-heating rice, and when the rice was cooked, I felt sick again. It turned out that he had just climbed over a mountain of more than 4,000 meters. In the afternoon, the local Mr. Wang came to Rabbit Mountain to meet us, and the sky was blue. Someone led the way, the speed increased, and we went straight to the airport after passing Haizishan without stopping. A large stone with 4411 meters written stands in front of the flying saucer-shaped airport, marking the height of the world's highest airport. We also felt the strong sunshine of the plateau. There was a heavy snowfall here a few days ago, and the planes were grounded. Affected by the climate, the airport is closed every year after the November peak season until the next spring. The terminal building is not big. Come out from the airport and go directly to Daocheng Yading Risong Kampot Hotel in Shangri-La Town to rest. I felt much better in the afternoon, and the creatinine oral solution given by Mr. Wang may have also played a role, and it was already normal after dinner. Mr. Wang said that the best anti-hypertensive drug is Gaoyuananhe creatinine oral liquid, which is better than rhodiola.
After a night's rest, the hotel's buffet breakfast is very standard, with both Chinese and Western styles, and everything you need. Mr. Wang has already prepared a van to take us into the scenic area, and he also brought oxygen, plateau safety, water, self-heating rice, fruit and chocolate and other snacks, so thoughtful! The car coiled on the mountain road, and saw the neat Yading village below. The newly-built buildings had no distinctive features. The icons and the word "YADING" in the wheat fields were extremely eye-catching. It is said that they used to be composed of different colors of wheat, but now they seem to be painted. The car can only drive to the parking lot under the Chonggu Temple, which is less than 4000 meters above sea level. Climb a stone step to the battery car terminal, and the battery car is as far away as Luorong cattle farm at 4180 meters. Mr. Wang asked us to pick up three small stones along the road, and we knew what to do when we got there. Walking to a platform, Mr. Wang asked us to throw stones on the small stone pile beside the road. He said that if three stones do not fall down, it means that there is a Buddha's fate. The top of the stone pile is smooth, and it is very difficult not to roll down. I personally kept the three stones. I knew I had no connection with Buddhism, so the stones fell out of nowhere. Considering that there are many elderly people in the regiment, the head of the regiment did not adopt Mr. Wang’s suggestion to go to the milk sea or the five-color sea (the heights of 4400 meters and 4800 meters block the way), but returned to the Luorong cattle farm. The total regret is no less than ours. In the morning, the weather was very cooperative, with blue sky and white clouds, and Xiannairi Peak was clearly presented. At noon, it was cloudy at Luorong Niuchang, but Yangmaiyong Peak refused to show itself. We had dinner at the rest place and it was still hidden in the clouds. We had no choice but to give up. When going down the mountain, the soldiers are divided into three groups, some of them take the half-way battery car and then walk on the plank road, go to Chonggu Temple and directly return to the battery car terminus. After everyone finished the trip and got into the van one after another, it started to rain. Driving all the way to the gate, the rain stopped halfway, and the two rainbows crossed the valley like a double-layered arch bridge, which was perfect.
I visited the town in the evening. The town is small, there are not many tourists, the shops are empty, and the music from the bar can't hide the depression. This year's epidemic has had a huge impact. I don’t know when Locke’s trail got its name. Obviously, Locke’s discovery a hundred years ago brought vitality to this place, and he is destined to be commemorated. The famous Shangri-La is a scenic spot in Yunnan. It was confirmed by the organizers of Yunnan Province after a series of investigations in 1997, based on the British novel "Lost Horizon". And this town of Shangri-La in western Sichuan was the first to be called this name, and the locals were very upset about it.
The fourth day was the most difficult day, our car had a problem: tire pressure warning. Let a few sensible people in the group read it, and they all said that there is no major problem with the tire pressure, and pay more attention to the condition of the car when driving again. When renting a car, the clerk also said that when the air pressure is low in plateau areas, the tires will falsely alarm. Today, we are going to Meili Snow Mountain. Mr. Wang plans to take a small road with him, which can reach nearly 100 kilometers. Passing by an unknown mountain, I went into a place without a road and walked for several kilometers. I saw an unnamed small lake with water all year round, calm and green, surrounded by bushes and wild flowers. Mr. Wang said they called it God’s tears. There are many local people digging Cordyceps on the mountain, and the fellows bought a few for 30 yuan each.
Arriving at Xiangcheng around noon, an 800-year-old linden tree stood quietly in the village. It is said that in the twelfth century when the Karmapa came to Qingde to preach/teach, the thread of the beads in his hand broke and the beads were scattered on the ground. Everyone helped to pick them up, but two were missing. The Karmapa said that these two beads are related to this place. Due to fate, two bodhi trees grew here later, and the Tibetan word "just name" means the Buddha beads in the hand, so Xiangcheng got its name. The other tree is missing, but the bodhi beads of this tree are highly respected by the Tibetan people, and there is no need to consecrate it. This small village left us with a good impression. The streets are clean, the flowers and plants are lush in front of and behind the houses, and the stream flows slowly. An old house was rebuilt by the designer into a homestay restaurant. It is very beautiful and the dishes are well cooked. Light and delicious. It makes people want to stay and live. Moreover, this area is a plateau valley, with a relatively low altitude, and a large area of farmland stretches along Provincial Highway 217, which is very eye-catching.
After lunch, we continued on the road. After walking for more than an hour, the road ahead was broken, so we had to go back and take the provincial road. Mr. Wang sent us to the fork in the road and waved goodbye. We walked to a tunnel according to the navigation. The tunnel construction was blocked, so we turned back to the old road. The old road has experienced many landslides and has been in disrepair for a long time. It is very difficult to walk, and the speed can reach 20 kilometers per hour. I don't know how many mountains I have climbed before leaving Sichuan. It was getting dark, and the head of the group said that if I can't make it to Deqin today, I will stay overnight in Benzilan Town. Fortunately, the son and the young couple went from Yunnan to Deqin to wait for us today. They said that they would go on the 214 provincial road. It was past nine o'clock when we arrived at Benzilan. After crossing the Jinsha River bridge, we entered Yunnan Provincial Highway 214.
Sure enough, there was no bad road again. With the moonlight and the reflection of Baima Snow Mountain, we arrived in Deqin smoothly. Our son picked us up at the fork in the road and took us to the hotel. It took a long time to scan the health codes one by one and enter the ID card information, and it was after 11 o'clock when I entered the room. This Meili Sunyata Resort is the work of a Chongqing designer who studied in Japan. It has a simple and low-key Japanese style, with a lot of blank space, large rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows. The public space on the third floor has a wide view, and you can see Meili Snow Mountain when it is sunny. The downside is that there is no elevator. The breakfast is similar to that of a hotel, with fewer varieties, and it is considered attentive. You need to make a reservation for dinner, whether you want to eat chicken or duck or beef, and the hotel said, they will go shopping, but they may not be able to buy what you want, so the reservation is just an intention, they will make adjustments, what to eat and how to eat is basically what he said The final decision. 100 yuan per person is enough, which is about the same as the manor on the first day. We ordered dinner for the next day, the main courses were roast duck and stewed chicken, and a few stir-fried dishes, all of which were very good. Overall the staff work hard. When I entered the room, I saw a handwritten welcome card on the coffee table. The beautiful small handwriting made me feel good, but the price of more than two thousand a night was not worth it.
On the morning of the fifth day, I wanted to see the scenery on the third floor, but there was a fog outside, and I couldn't see anything. The small village at the foot of the mountain appeared and disappeared in the clouds and fog.
The weather was bad, so the group leader decided to leave for Feilai Temple later in the morning. The platform in front of Feilai Temple overlooks Deqin County and Meili Snow Mountain in the distance, but they couldn't see it. Walked forward to a large platform with a better location, parked the car and was taking pictures. Someone came over and charged a fee, and had to register an ID card, which seemed to be 20 yuan per person. Although the clouds and mists shrouded Kawaborg without a trace, the nearby snow-capped mountains could still be seen, and everyone took pictures in various combinations and poses. My camera bag wasn't zipped properly and the lens hood fell off. The son went down to search in the bushes, and picked up several, one of which was very similar, and it was still wrong after taking it back and washing it for a try.
At noon, I ate at a nearby yak meat hot pot restaurant. The yak meat was very tender and had no smell. The radish stewed together was more delicious and melted in the mouth. Most memorable meal of the trip. In the afternoon, I went to Mingyong Glacier with my son, and the others went to see Baima Snow Mountain. It was past three o'clock when we arrived at the gate of the glacier. We bought tickets and battery tickets (102 yuan in total). The car can save us six kilometers. The driver sent us to a small pavilion and said that we would be back here at five o'clock at the latest. He sent us off Go down, there will be no car if it is late. We climbed up along the boardwalk, even though the altitude here was only over 2000, we were still out of breath. At the beginning, the woods were dense and high, and the sky could not be seen, and then we went up to the edge of the hillside. There were fewer trees and more flowers, and they were blooming beautifully. I saw a few small glaciers on the opposite mountain, and after a relatively slow and damaged plank road came to a mani stack, I saw the funnel-shaped glacier pouring down from the main peak of Kawaborg. The weather was bad, the top of the mountain merged with the sky, and it was gray. Time was limited, so we had to go back. It is said that there is no better scenery if we go further. Along the way, only two groups of 5 tourists were encountered. Waiting for the car at the small pavilion, several hunchbacked mules and workers rest here. The fur on the mules is mottled, some are lame, some are torn, and they are all listless. Sheep is not a state at all. In the evening, return to the hotel for dinner with the two families.
On the sixth day, enter the second half of the itinerary - enter Tibet along Provincial Highway 214. The Millennium Salt Field is here. It is a very narrow road with no parking space. More than a dozen cars drove in to attract locals to come out to watch. The local escorting command vehicles passed the "bridge" built by two wooden boards to stop at a relatively flat place, and walked to the salt shed by the river. The guide told us that this is where Ge/Sar/Wang fought with the local Naxi people King Ge/Sar/Er won the battle for territory and resources and generously gave up the salt field to the Naxi people, so it is now a Naxi Autonomous County in the Tibet Autonomous Region. There are two kinds of salt, red and white. The white one can be eaten after more processing, and the red one can be used as bath salt or foot soak.
At noon, I had lunch at a Naxi website/Hongdian farmhouse. Their noodles are famous, and they even made a gimmick. If anyone can eat 50 bowls of noodles at a time, they will be free of charge. Put a bowl of small stones on the table, eat a bowl and put a stone in front of you to count, in fact, the so-called one bowl is only one chopstick, girls can eat six or seven bowls, nine bowls are okay, boys twelve or three bowls are not a problem Son, I ate seven bowls. The table is as high as a tea table, and the guests sit face to face on the long hard sofa. Each table is filled with a table of dishes, including ham made of Tibetan pork, yak meat, and various stir-fried vegetables. When the meal was almost finished, the proprietress came over to offer a song and toast.
In the afternoon, I passed the 4,448-meter Hongla Mountain Pass and arrived at Mangkang County. I didn’t expect the county to be so beautiful. There are shopping malls, theaters, schools, and stadiums. Maybe it was just built or affected by the epidemic. No one has no cars on the street. Two travelers and elementary school students returning to school in school uniforms in twos and threes were all the people we met. The students in the village had a long way to go, generally lived in school, and arrived at school early on Sunday afternoon.
This trip to Sichuan and Tibet strongly felt that the standard of living in Tibetan areas has improved a lot compared to ten years ago. The roads are much easier to walk, and the convenience of transportation has broadened people’s horizons. New houses have been built, basic necessities of life have been improved, and people’s education level is high. Now, with more knowledge, the lifestyle of young people is more modernized. The Tibetan driver who drove us back then is now the owner of several hotels, and his daughter is also in college in Beijing. Continue to Rumei Town and stay in the famous Songtsam Mountain Residence. Songtsam has many hotels in Yunnan and Tibet, with Tibetan-style packaging and Western-style facilities. The location is exquisite, not in the city center but in a place with beautiful scenery. In recent years, this style is more flattering and popular. The interior of the room is a wooden structure, the washbasin is made of copper, and the hand washing, shower and toilet are separated without interfering with each other. The breakfast is a combination of Chinese and Western, and also adds Tibetan features such as tsampa. For dinner, we chose Western style, with appetizers, two main courses and desserts, which were delicious in color, fragrance and taste. It's a pity that I dare not let go for dinner.
The seventh day was relatively easy. I went to a newly developed pasture, and the visitor center was still under construction. We drove a road without a road to the side of the plank road, and climbed over the railing to enter the plank road. The field of vision here is wide, with green grass, black cattle and creeks at your feet, snow-capped mountains in the distance, and blue sky above your head. All the colors are so pure.
Originally planned to stay at Ranwu Lake at night, people in Qamdo suggested staying in Basu, which is at a lower altitude. They said that it is best to sleep at a place below 3000 meters at night. The Basu Dora Shenshan Hot Spring Hotel is close to the Nu River. It may be the best in this small county. It feels like a guest house in the past. The facilities and hygiene are poor, but each room is equipped with a large oxygen cylinder, and the safety work is in place.
Dinner is a very sumptuous table of Sichuan cuisine. From then on, I eat Sichuan cuisine most of the time. The meat is more spicy, heavy oil and salt, and the variety of dishes is rich. I can eat enough vegetables and fruits every day, as well as local yogurt. It's something I didn't think of before. The Tibetans in Sichuan, Yunnan, and the Qamdo region of Tibet belong to the Kham Tibetan nationality. The so-called Kham men are tall and beautiful, and they are very proud of their race. But the locals I have seen are not all so tall and beautiful, maybe they are foreigners?
On the eighth day, proceed to Ranwu Lake. The weather is gloomy and the lake view is greatly reduced. Fortunately, there is a very well-designed resort here, adding some artificial scenery. I was wandering around and heard a burst of restless music. A girl was filming a video of five "senior guys" and five big motorcycles. The motorcycles are all big cattle license plates with five consecutive numbers like Yu K00000. They probably live broadcasted all the way yes. After lunch, at the suggestion of the coordinator, we bought tea and coffee, and enjoyed an afternoon tea with our own dried fruit snacks.
After eating and drinking enough, we headed to Bomi, and passed Midui Glacier on the way. The terrain here is much gentler than Mingyong Glacier. We went in by battery car, and there were very few tourists. There were still locals at the end of the battery car, and some people in the group bought some jewelry. , Said to help/poverty. Originally, the battery car could continue to drive inward, but in order to provide some living allowances to the locals, ZF reserved this section of the road for them to do horseback riding tours, which cost 100 yuan each time. We didn't hike, we took pictures around and returned.
At first glance, Bomi is an old-fashioned tourist attraction. There are many shops on the street, comparable to hotels, and the street buildings are quite old. The Palong Zangbo River passes through the city, surrounded by snow-capped mountains. We stayed at the Zang/Wang Hotel, and the locals arranged a trip to Medog the next day, which was an unplanned destination of our group. It's not that I don't want to go, but I don't dare to think about it.
As the last county in China with road access, Medog is the only road that connects with the outside world. The road conditions are not very good. I heard that a west road from Nyingchi is being built. It was cloudy and foggy when we set off in the morning, and it stopped raining along the way. Here we used a local car and driver. The driver is a tall, handsome and shy guy named Xiang Badoji. Ask two or three sentences before you can answer one. He listened to popular songs all the way, many of them were in Cantonese. After walking for a while, I saw a thin and tall waterfall, and the stone below it was engraved: Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon National Nature Reserve, and then walked a while to the Galongla Tunnel. Dorje said that there was no tunnel before. When it snows, you can't get in or out. After passing through the tunnel, we went all the way down. The two sides of the road gradually turned into tropical plants, and the air became more and more humid. We arrived in Hainan in a trance. Dorje said that it was too hot here. Several landslides have broken the road, and the road can only be driven over rocks or puddles. The bridge next to it is being repaired, and it will be possible to cross the bridge in the near future.
Medog is high in the north and low in the south, with an altitude difference of more than 7,000 meters from Nanjiabawa Peak to the border/border line, resulting in the most complete vertical climate spectrum in China. Various plants from frigid to tropical grow, including many rare species. The Tibetans in Medog are ethnic minorities, mainly Monba and Lhoba. In the past decade or so, the government has put in a lot of effort to connect electricity, communications, TV signals and roads, build schools and hospitals, and develop tourism, all of which have lifted Medog out of poverty. The Gela Dandong Hotel looks pretty good, with glass curtain walls, small rooms and simple decoration, but considering how difficult the transportation is, it is not easy to reach this level. There is a park not far away, and the lake water adds a bit of beauty to the local area. The altitude here is more than 1100 meters, which is very comfortable. A special kind of stone is produced locally, which has been used to make pots since the Stone Age, resulting in the specialty Motuo stone pot and the famous dish stone pot chicken. It is said that this kind of soapstone is soft, non-stick, heat-retaining, fast heat transfer, and rich in trace elements. It is shaped like a straight stone pot, gray in color, and heavy in weight. After lunch, we went up the mountain to Renqingbeng Temple. The road was even less like a road. Workers were expanding the road, and various construction vehicles were busy. We had to give way to them when we passed them. If we couldn’t, we waited. After all the hardships, I was disappointed when I arrived in front of the temple. The gate of the courtyard was dilapidated, the paint was mottled, and the houses in the courtyard were dilapidated and messy. The main building was neither tall nor luxurious. Dorji and his accompanying Bamu agreed that this temple is the most spiritual in Nyingchi and has a very high status, and they all considered it a blessing to come to this temple to worship. According to the introduction, Renqing means treasure, and Beng means many. I understand it as a cornucopia. It is said that the surrounding mountains surround this mountain like a lotus flower when viewed from above, so it is also called the Lotus Holy Land. There is really a treasure in the temple. The thousand-year-old copper-gilt pagoda is older than the temple itself. Its origin is unknown. It is about 20 centimeters high. The top of the pagoda can be lifted to see the Buddha/image inside. It is very delicate. The temple was rebuilt in 1983 after being destroyed by the earthquake. It is a single building with three floors on the outside and two floors on the inside. Each side of the square structure protrudes outwards, like a porch with four doors, thus forming 12 Corner, chic and lightweight. Padmasambhava in the temple is dedicated to Guru Rinpoche with a ferocious face. I am puzzled. The local people explain that this is one of the eight disguised forms of Padmasambhava. While benefiting all beings, he also needs to subdue ghosts. He has practiced in the cemetery for many years. It may be the difference between him and other monks. Padmasambhava is knowledgeable and versatile. He introduced Buddhism to Tibet from India in the eighth century and majored in Samye Monastery. It can be said that all the monks in Tibet are his students.
Go down the mountain and continue to go south along the only road to the fructose big bend. This corner is a bit like a jasper, delicate and elegant, with lush trees, perfect shape, a little less bold, and the viewing platform is ugly and rough. When crossing the river on the road, I saw a rattan bridge next to it. It was very delicate, so it should not be used.
There is a souvenir shop on the side of the road when you come back, selling some rattan products and stone pots, etc. Everyone looked left and right to see that there was nothing to buy, and the price was a little expensive. In the evening, I found a restaurant to eat stone pot chicken. The palm ginseng in it aroused everyone's interest. It really looked like a palm. It tasted delicious and slightly medicinal. Bamu bought a barrel of chicken feet wine from nowhere, not a wine made from chicken feet, but a kind of wine made from chicken feet rice unique to the local area.
The morning of the tenth day was fine. We returned to Bomi and went straight to Lulang without stopping. It started to rain again, and we arrived at Linzhi Evergrande Hotel in the small town of Lulangongcuo in the rain. Although the visibility was poor, we could still see the beauty of the town.
This is a joint project between Guangdong and Nyingchi a few years ago. It has the nature of poverty alleviation and tourism. Evergrande, Poly, and Zhujiang three real estate companies jointly developed this small area in Gongcuo, built hotels, restaurants, entertainment, shopping facilities, and an art gallery, combining modern concepts and high-end facilities with first-class scenery. People linger and forget to return, it is one of my favorite places. Shops are closed and only two or three restaurants are open. This epidemic! How many lives have been ruined. The weather is not so good. This season is the period when warm and humid air currents prevail in the Indian Ocean. Medog bears the brunt of this impact, which is humid and rainy. Because the Yarlung Zangbo River Grand Canyon is the same as Linzhi area, the rainy season is from May to October every year, and the other half of the year is dry. The best seasons to come here are April and October, when spring and autumn are the most beautiful, and try to avoid rain. In the evening, I ate stone pot chicken, which is much more particular about tableware and production than Medog.
On the eleventh day, I left the hotel early in the morning to go to Lulang Linhai. I don’t know if it rained all night. It rained heavily in the morning. I took an umbrella and went to have breakfast. Fortunately, the rain stopped after dinner, and the forest became a black shadow. , Take a few unsatisfactory photos at the viewing platform beside the national highway, just visit here. If you want to go down, you have to take a battery car for some time, and everyone thinks it's not worth it.
Drive into Nyingchi City at noon and check into Botai Nyingchi Hotel. In the afternoon, the sky was clear and we came to Nanyigou—a place I had never heard of. It is said that there are many snow-capped mountains, clear water, green trees and flowers here. After walking for a while on the airport expressway, turning to the ordinary road and then to the country road, I finally stopped. In the car, I saw the head of the group talking with the escort for a long time, and finally informed everyone that "we will not go in." The grass is tender and green, and the escort suggested that we walk along the plank road. A clear and shallow creek twists and turns, no one knows where it comes from, where strange trees are scattered, and flowers that have never been seen before are quietly blooming or withering beside the road. This unknown grassland Bring us relaxation and enjoyment.
Go back to the Cypress King Garden in the city to pay homage to the 3000-year-old giant cypress in the world. There are also many cypress trees that are two or three thousand years old.
We went back to the hotel and didn’t have dinner with everyone. The three of us set out for the river valley again, because I thought the river valley was very beautiful when passing by just now, and wanted to take pictures while the sun was setting. Nyingchi is built along the Niyang River, which flows into the Yarlung Zangbo River not far away. There are many shoals in the lower reaches of Nyingchi. We got off the highway and found a small dirt road into the river after a lot of effort. This road disappeared after walking. There are wild grasses and wild flowers at the foot, and small puddles, and green and snow-capped mountains in the distance. It's a pity that the cloud is too thick, it would be better if it was thinner. I originally wanted to walk to the river, but it was too difficult to walk without a road, and I couldn't see the surrounding conditions. It was getting dark, so I returned because I was afraid of getting lost.
In the evening, everyone went shopping in the market. Tibet sells a lot of medicines, not only local medicinal materials, but also Sichuan, Yunnan, Xinjiang, and even Iran. The prices are quite expensive. Many people bought palm ginseng, ranging from 1,200 to 4,500 kilograms. A colleague saw Chuanbei and asked about the price, the store said a very high number, and said you have to try it, it's different. He really tasted it, it was so bitter that he hopped his feet, and even said more than a dozen "too bitter". I seldom tried, and I didn't want to make myself so painful, but I also lost some of the fun of life because of it.
On the twelfth day, I got up early and went alone to the Fujian Park near the hotel. There are pavilions and pavilions dotted around a lake, and there is a stone boat. The snow-capped mountains at the top and the Hada clouds surrounding the mountainside revealed its location information.
On the morning of the thirteenth day, visit the Potala Palace. Only a small part of the Potala Palace is open, and it is concentrated in the Red Palace. You must follow the tour guide and return to the original place for more than an hour. This is the most densely populated place along the way. It is often stopped by other teams and cannot find its own tour guide. Sometimes it is impossible to hear what the tour guide is saying because of the noise of the tour guide. I looked at the sandalwood Avalokitesvara statue in a mess (here I accepted the hada given by the monk), the Lingta hall, the mandala hall and many other halls. I went around and couldn’t find the north. The light in the palace was not good, and I couldn’t take pictures for later. As a reference, so I will almost forget it when I come back. What I can remember is the world's largest/biggest diamond on the fifth dalai stupa, and the natural sandalwood Avalokitesvara statue, which has not been carved, but it is too small and too far away, and it is in a glass box, so there is no stone at all. see clearly. The outer wall of the Red Palace is very special, called the Baima grass wall, which is made of a small tree through complicated processes. It is light in weight and warm, and can also catch arrows. The Potala Palace preserves a large number of cultural relics, statues, thangkas, murals, scriptures, etc., as well as the spiritual pagoda. There is a saying that gold is the least valuable in the Potala Palace.
In the evening, a local friend invited everyone to a very special bar for a drink. This floating bar is opened by a big boy from Beijing, Binzi. He came to Lhasa by bicycle 17 years ago, and he stayed here forever. He lived a simple and happy life by drinking, smoking, singing and playing poor. He chatted casually, saying that his mother beat him all the time when he was young, and beat him to Tibet. The authentic Beijing dialect and the unclear pronunciation with his tongue rolled made people feel like they were in a Beijing alley.
On the fourteenth day, we set off to Namtso by bicycle. A section of the road in the middle was washed out, but the rest were fine. Arrived at the entrance of the scenic spot at nearly 12 o'clock, and bought a ticket for 120 yuan. The public toilet was dirty without water, and it took more than an hour to drive in to the lake. Namtso is so big, and you can see different lake views in different positions, which feels like a blind man touching an elephant. After eating the lunch I brought, I came to the main scenic spot, which is the place where Namtso is engraved on the big stone. It is a gentle slope from the parking lot to the lake. I saw many people walking with oxygen cylinders supporting each other, and some simply supported each other. Resting on the spot with the railing, the altitude of 4718 is no joke. With just the right blue sky and white clouds as the background, Namtso looks even more enchanting. The white yak is dressed up and used to take pictures, and it is pushed into the water and pulled ashore to constantly manipulate it. Would it envy the birds that shuttle freely in the sky and water? ? And those ugly black yaks and gray sheep wandering freely and eating non-stop? Beauty is sometimes a curse! After staying by the lake for some time, the clouds came up and we set off on our way home.
When I came back, it was raining, and unfortunately, when I entered Lhasa, I encountered an inspection. Large and small vehicles were discharged several kilometers away, and finally reached the inspection gate. After showing our ID cards, we were called to stop, because we came from Beijing, and a new crown case appeared on the 11th in Beijing. Jc asked us to scan a code to the left and scan a code to the right, and filled in a lot of information. After tossing for a long time, the two of us passed, but the other one couldn't pass, even if jc helped to fill it out. Later, he waved his hand and let us go.
On the fifteenth day, the cousin of the beauty in the group came to play with her, and we went to Yamdrok Yongcuo together. My cousin graduated from the mainland and then worked in Shannan. He is very familiar with this place, and it is a lot of peace of mind to have him lead the way. He drove all the way to a flat place on the mountain and stopped the car. After questioning, he said that the speed limit is the entire section, and the time from entrance to exit cannot be shorter than the regulations. While waiting, I saw a person playing and singing by himself. I don’t know if he is professional or not, but his level is not bad, but he has to pay for taking pictures and videos. I went over to chat. He is from Shandong. The epidemic caused nothing to do. He drove out with his wife and daughter and sang while walking. There were scarves and shawls in the car to sell to those in need. Life is not easy, but there is always a way to have fun. Yangzhuo Yongcuo is 60 yuan, and there are also yaks to take pictures, and there are more Tibetan mastiffs. The Tibetan Mastiff is as docile as a big dog, completely different from the one I saw. The beauty and the big dog took many group photos. The sky was overcast and dark, and the scenery was much less beautiful.
In the afternoon we went directly to the airport. Because the speed limit was basically 30-60 kilometers, we drove very slowly, and countless cars passed us. I still didn’t dare to speed up, for fear of being fined again. We returned the car, and the dealer drove us to the terminal. Bamu had already arranged boarding for us. We chose to transfer from Xining to save money. When we arrived in Xining, we didn’t need to scan the QR code to enter, and we didn’t need to carry luggage. We went directly to the second floor to check in. Everything went smoothly and we returned to Beijing, where the epidemic recurred.
I have experienced two types of accommodation this time, one is a standard star hotel, and the other is a design hotel with ethnic style. The standard hotels vary a lot depending on the location. For example, Basu and Medog are upgraded guest houses. Linzhi and Shangri-La can be rated as four-star hotels, with complete facilities, good sanitation, and spacious and comfortable public spaces. It’s my first time to experience a design hotel, and there are a few surprises. Eye-catching is the most important thing for this type of hotel. The interior and exterior of the window are carefully arranged, and a seat will be set in the best position for you to sit down and enjoy. In addition, the warm service is also a major feature. There is no uniform clothing, not a standardized service, but a taste of home, some snacks, beautiful drinks, and slippers in the evening. The staff will chat with you, and the meal is what you eat at home. It makes you feel less concerned about their unprofessionalism and inadequacy, and even feel cordial. But some people are not quite used to it, there is no comfortable sofa, no writing desk, the height of the furniture is not suitable, and so on. There is one thing that makes me very depressed. The room key is huge, made of copper, and there are a lot of decorations hanging on it. It feels like it weighs several hundred grams.
In the eyes of so many people, Tibet is a mysterious, sacred and mythical place. If you don’t go there, you will regret it for life, and so many people go there again and again. In my opinion, these days are full of snow-capped mountains, bald mountains, forests, rivers and lakes, meadows, wastelands, winding mountain roads, and other places too. Why does this land keep attracting people? I think it is the passion of people triggered by its difficulties. The difficult road, changeable climate, and thin air are all challenging humans, and humans have never lacked the desire to overcome nature.
After returning from Tibet, I found "Little Wooden House" on the Internet and read it again. The forest scientist was Xu Fengxiang, who went to Tibet more than a dozen times under such difficult conditions, and dedicated his life to trees, flowers and plants.