I have known Li Bai's famous poem for a long time, "If you don't see the water of the Yellow River coming up from the sky, you will never return to the sea." Finally, we have a chance to get close to this place of "coming from the sky", because we have already arrived in Mama, Guoluo Prefecture, Qinghai Province yesterday. Duoxian, which is where the source of the Yellow River is located, can you not be excited? Looking back on the experience from Xining to Maduo yesterday (October 28, 2020), I feel very lucky.

When I left Xining yesterday morning, there was still light snow falling from the sky. After getting on the expressway from Xining, the thickness of the snow on the road gradually increased. My wife felt that driving on the expressway was too boring. I suggested taking a section of the national highway to see the scenery of Qinghai grassland, so Gonghe County Get off the expressway and drive southwest along the G214 National Highway. Unexpectedly, this temporary change allowed us to escape the embarrassing situation of closed expressway traffic jams. We crossed the Ela Pass in the snow and were preparing to get on the expressway at the Xinghai Expressway toll station. The toll collector told us that due to snow on the road, the direction to Xining is temporarily closed, but the direction to Yushu is open, that is to say, if we come from Xining and do not get off the expressway at Gonghe, we may be blocked on the expressway Got it, really lucky. And when we got on the expressway from the Xinghai toll station, the weather gradually improved. When we walked near the Huashi Gorge, the sun had already emerged from the clouds. "It's so lucky to be around me." keep it up.

Although I heard that Ering Lake and Zhaling Lake at the source of the Yellow River are closed due to environmental protection reasons, we thought that since we are here, let’s try to go there, as far as we can go, and go to the source of the Yellow River in the morning On the way, passing in front of the Maduo County Government, I saw a replica of the head of the head of the Yellow River source cattle. I wonder if I can see the original version of the stele of the head of the head of the cattle. I should stop and take a photo as a souvenir.

Leaving Maduo County, I soon set foot on the dirt road to the source of the Yellow River. According to the navigation, it takes seven hours to reach the Niutoubei, but this road is not very bad compared with the crossing road we walked all the way. . We drove forward slowly while admiring the scenery along the way. There are snow-capped mountains, wild animals, and the Yellow River, which is not wide and flows gently.

This section of the Yellow River is also very distinctive

At about eleven o’clock in the morning, I came to a unique gate. The words “Sanjiangyuan National Park” and “Yellow Riveryuan Park” were written on the wall at the gate, and there was the source of the Yellow River? Eling Lake Zhaling next to it. The sign of the lake is at the gate of the Yellow River Source Scenic Area?

I didn’t see the on-duty management personnel before I walked through the door, so I walked boldly inside and drove for about a few kilometers. Gradually, the left side of the road showed a big lake with water and sky. I approached a big stone by the lake. On the stone was written " "Eling Lake" a few words, ah! I finally arrived at the source of the Yellow River. I cheered for a while by the lake, set up the drone, and took off. Unexpectedly, the wind was too strong by the lake, and the drone almost couldn't control it. It flew straight to the center of the lake. I hurried it to the shore Guided by the side, it landed by the lake without any risk, and never dared to let it fly again.

After admiring this side of Eling Lake, continue to move forward, and soon saw a light yellow building by the lake from a distance. When I got closer, it turned out to be a monitoring station for "Yellow River Hydrology", which is the only one on the edge of Eling Lake. Modern architecture too.

Moving on, a group of Tibetan gazelle appeared on the side of the road. They looked at us uninvited guests curiously from a distance. As soon as our car stopped, they ran away.

After walking for more than ten kilometers, I saw some buildings in the distance. I went around and saw that it was the Tsowagashzeduoka Temple. It was built in 1956. Although it has a short history, it is still quite large. It is said that there are monks here. Believe in the Gelug Sect, some believe in the Nyingma Sect, and they live in peace with each other, which is quite harmonious and inclusive. Most of the believers in this temple are the people of the original Huoke tribe near Zaling Lake and part of Qumalai County, Yushu Prefecture. the masses.

On the boulder next to the wetland by the lake, the words "Welcome to the beach" are engraved. It is said that in the 15th year of Tang Zhenguan (641 A.D.), when Princess Wencheng married to Tibet, Songtsan Gampo welcomed the princess and the clan king Li Daozong here.

We stayed here for a while, and neither saw anyone coming in or out, nor cattle and sheep grazing on the grass, only a few dogs watching us vigilantly from a distance. We had no choice but to follow the road signs to Cuowagashize Mountain behind the monastery.

Cuowagashize Mountain is one of the thirteen "holy mountains" in the Maduo area, with an altitude of 4610 meters. There is a simple road leading directly to the top of the mountain. On the top of the mountain is a bronze stele of Heyuan Niu Tau, which was completed in October 1988. The height of the stele is 3 The base of the stele is 2 meters high. On the base of the stele are words and inscriptions written by Comrade Hu Yaobang and the Panchen Lama for the source of the Yellow River, which are inlaid with copper plates.

When we reached the top of the mountain, there was still no one there, only the howling wind made the prayer flags on the nearby prayer flags rattle, as if they were chanting sutras vigorously. We excitedly came to the Niutoubei and shouted loudly: "Yellow River source, here I come!".

Standing on the top of Cuowagashize Mountain, you can have a panoramic view of the surrounding area. Not only can you see the whole picture of Ering Lake, but you can also see a corner of Zaling Lake. The view is very spectacular and wide.

Coming down from Cuowagashize Mountain, it is estimated that time will be very tight to go to Zaling Lake, so I gave up this idea and walked back slowly with unsatisfied satisfaction. The way back seems to be very fast. After two hours, we returned to Maduo County. Seeing that the sun had not yet set, we visited the Gesar Cultural Expo Park next to the county. The features are outstanding, and the characters are tall and majestic, which fully demonstrates Gesar's heroic spirit.

After visiting the source of the Yellow River, it marks the successful conclusion of the main tour of our self-driving tour in Tibet, Xinjiang and Qinghai. Tomorrow we will embark on the journey back to Chengdu. Goodbye! The source of the Yellow River! goodbye! Tibet, Xinjiang, Qinghai! We will be back.

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