Fani Ancient Road, Lhasa-Jilonggou
The Gyirong ditch adjacent to Nepal has been one of the important passages between the Tubo Dynasty and South Asia since ancient times. Our journey started from the road taken by Nepalese Princess Chizun who married Tubo Songtsan Gampo. From Lhasa to Shigatse to Geelong Valley and then to Nepal, the one that crosses the Himalayas is the "God-given Road" Fanni Ancient Road.
On the plateau in midsummer, the golden rapeseed flowers and the green barley wheat waves complement each other, like a picture engraved in the heart. We set off from Lhasa to enter the Everest Base Camp, and we need to cross the Gyatso-La Mountain at an altitude of 5248 meters. Such a high-altitude hypoxia is inevitable, but the beauty of the high-altitude is also reflected here. After a short stay at the Jiawula Pass, we turn After 108 bends, come to the foot of Mount Everest and look at the highest peak in the world.
On the way to Geelong, we passed Shishapangma Peak and Pekuco on the 219 National Highway. Nomura in Jilong Valley is simply a paradise, with pure white snow-capped mountains, green pastures, and small flowers blooming all over the mountains and plains. What could be more attractive than this beautiful scenery?
The detailed route of the Fani Ancient Road:
Day1 Lhasa - Tonba Township, Nyemo County - Former Residence of Thonmi Sangbuza - Tibetan House - Shigatse
Day2 Shigatse - Jiacuola Mountain - Gawula Mountain - Everest Base Camp
Day3 Everest Base Camp - Xishapangma Peak - Pekuco - Geelong Valley
Day4 Geelong Gounai Village-Kaire Waterfall-The Inscription of Tianzhu Envoy of the Tang Dynasty-Dingri
Day5 Tingri - Shigatse
The "Fanni Ancient Road" was prosperous more than a thousand years ago. We all know that Tubo was closely related to the Tang Dynasty at that time. Princess Wencheng of Tang Dynasty and Princess Chizun of Nepal married into Tubo. The cultural exchanges between the Central Plains, Nepal and India have been promoted. It’s just that I don’t know where the people at that time crossed the roof of the world, and they were able to communicate with Nepal and India in terms of culture and some life crafts.
It was not until we came to the "Inscription of the Great Tang Tianzhu Envoy" on the fourth day that we found out that this unusual stone was left in the Tang Dynasty, which also confirmed that the envoys of the Tang Dynasty were sent to Tianzhu from Geelong. This road goes in and out of South Asia.
So, follow in my footsteps and walk along the road traveled by the envoys of the Tang Dynasty thousands of years ago.
The first stop, back to Lhasa
A day in Lhasa is an ordinary day for me. It has already integrated into my life. I feel that I am no longer traveling in Lhasa, but living. In the eyes of the locals, Lhasa should only refer to the Jokhang Temple and the circle of Barkhor Street that surrounds the Jokhang Temple. Today, the Barkhor Street of the Jokhang Temple is still the essence of the ancient city of Lhasa.
Don't be too stingy about Lhasa, at least arrange 2 days for it. A thousand-year-old city on the plateau, you can’t read its fur for two days, but it is very tolerant, everything is ok, even if you only have half a day to go to a Barkhor Street, it is enough to feel Lhasa.
Day1 Barkhor Street - Taking photos of Tibetan clothing - Sweet Tea House - Eating Tibetan food
Day2 Potala Palace - Zongjiao Lukang Park - Nanshan Park - Lhasa River
Barkhor Street is like an endless book. I have been to Lhasa for ten consecutive years, and I am still tireless about it. Most of the time, I was just walking on the turning path empty-handed. When I was in Lhasa, I was no longer traveling but living. Turning around Barkhor Street became a kind of walk after dinner. There was not much pressure, and I didn’t bring a camera. Just walk around.
After returning from the Ancient Tea-Horse Road, Mao Mao and I went shopping together and bought a cup of milk tea, "I heard that Tibet has you, so I set out to travel thousands of miles." Seeing a suitable and improved Tibetan clothing, I almost feel no disobedience in wearing it. There are endless crowds, the streets are full of Tibetan-style buildings, and there are some old houses that have been preserved for a long time in the alleys. Barkhor Street is like a treasure in Lhasa, and there are surprises everywhere.
We were going to go out for dinner, just at the intersection of Chongsaikang Market, passing through the Chongsaikang Antique Market where everyone had a shelf, watching their oldest trading methods, and then came to Beijing Road, heading for Potala Go in the direction of the palace.
Potala Palace Square from the front, Pingcuo Kangsang View Hotel from the side, Xingyue Bodhi Café from the side of traffic, Zongjiao Lukang Park from the back, cross the Lhasa River to Nanshan Park to see the front reflection of the Potala Palace , go north to the Lalu Wetland to see the reflection of the back of the Potala Palace.
The Potala Palace in my eyes is still as tall and mighty as I saw at the first sight. The whole building is integrated with the Red Mountain. Every winter, it will be repainted with milk and honey. At that time, the Potala Palace was a place full of A palace of sweet colors.
There are still several great experiences in Lhasa that you should not miss, such as being dazed by the river in Lhasa, eating a Tibetan meal, drinking sweet tea in the afternoon, listening to a live house, and taking a set of photos.
From the urban area to the Lhasa River, the surroundings of Xianzu Island and Sun Island are enough. It is recommended that the vicinity of Sijinlacuo on Xianzu Island is fine. Now there are many shared motorcycles in the streets and alleys of Lhasa, and you can go to your desired destination without stepping hard.
Eating Tibetan food and soaking in sweet teahouses are all must-experiences when you come to Lhasa. We chose Jiamusa Tibetan banquet for Tibetan food this time. Princess Wencheng expressed it as "Jiamusa" in Tibetan. Wencheng greeted you when you entered the lobby The princess statue and the murals all over the wall are very Tibetan.
Their Tibetan food is an improved version. The taste is more suitable for travelers. It is a little different from the traditional Tibetan food. It is worth tasting. While eating Tibetan food in Jiamusa, you can also watch Tibetan singing and dancing performances. I especially recommend the special Tibetan hot pot: in Tibetan food, my favorite food has always been Tibetan hot pot, fresh beef slices, beef balls, snowflake beef , meat and vegetables are paired with shiitake mushrooms, cabbage, and lettuce. The dipping sauce is a bit spicy, and it tastes great.
I don’t like lamb very much, but I have eaten several pieces of cumin lamb chops from his family. The main reason is that it has no smell and is moderately fat and thin. It is especially suitable as an appetizer for drinking while eating meat. There is also this Jiamu grilled shiitake mushroom. The grilled shiitake mushroom is definitely the king of vegetarian dishes. The taste is very similar to eating meat, and it has the unique fragrance of the fungus, which is absolutely delicious.
There are many bars with live houses in Lhasa. I recommend a few bars that everyone goes to frequently, such as Song of Lhasa, Time of Tibet, Journey of Salvation, and this newly opened Qingtang 1701. Drinking in a small bar in Lhasa is an atmosphere. Everyone comes from all corners of the country and gathers together to listen to a romantic song.
Finally, remember to take a set of Tibetan portraits. Although it is true to walk on Barkhor Street, it is quite annoying to see that the bad streets are full of Tibetan portraits and photographers. But when you put on a favorite Tibetan outfit and look back at it when you get home after shooting, you will always feel that it is at least a good memory.
Lhasa Intercontinental Paradise Hotel
Gather with friends again at the InterContinental Hotel, and we are ready to go to the next stop - Fanny Trail. The lobby of the Lhasa InterContinental is a major feature, under the modern glass pyramid, the sunlight fills the entire lobby. The breakfast place in the lobby is like a garden-like Tibetan-style building.
The rooms I stayed at the InterContinental twice were different. This time the room was more modern and simple, still facing the sun. There was diffuse oxygen supply in the room, and the super-large humidifier was turned on all night. The bedding and supplies of high-end hotels are naturally Nothing to say.
The second stop, the former residence of Thonmi Sambuza
Early in the morning, we first went to apply for the border defense permit. Now in Lhasa, it is still troublesome to apply for a border defense certificate. You must have a non-criminal certificate issued by the police station where your household registration is located before you can apply for free. It was almost noon, and our car set off from Lhasa, officially opening the Tibet Zhuobu Youfanni Ancient Road.
The stream at the gate of the former residence of Thummi Sangbuza in Nimu County is gurgling. It is precisely because of this magical Thumba River that there is no fish in Hanoi, and the water of the Thumba River is very suitable for making Tibetan incense. Nimu Tibetan incense is so famous.
The former residence of Thonmi Sambuza in front of us has a history of more than 1,300 years. Entering the house on this summer afternoon, a gust of cool air hits. This is a two-story building with civil structure. The first floor is for cattle and sheep to live in and store sundries, and the second floor is the living room, kitchen, Buddhist hall, study and housekeeper's room. There are even vents and simple sewers on the second floor, which should have been very advanced thousands of years ago.
In the study room, the tour guide told us that the Tibetan language is composed of 30 consonants and 4 vowels. Thonmi Sangbuza is very remarkable. He is one of Songtsan Gampo’s virtuous ministers. He left Lhasa In the process of studying in Tianzhu, he learned Sanskrit and language, and then combined with Tibetan language to create Tibetan characters. The birth of Tibetan characters brought Tibetan history into a new era of civilization.
Nimo Tibetan incense
Thonmi Sangbuza took advantage of the rich water resources in Tumba Township and invented a wooden waterwheel to grind the raw materials for making Tibetan incense. Tibetan incense is usually made of cypress and elm bark as raw materials, with saffron, musk, agarwood, etc. Dozens of pure natural and pollution-free Tibetan herbal medicines are handmade according to appropriate proportions.
And the Nimu Tibetan incense we see today is one of the famous sources of Tibetan incense in Tibet. It is known as "the first incense in the snowy region". It has the most original Tibetan incense formula. Basically every household produces Tibetan incense and makes a unique one The fragrance is very popular among the people.
When I came to Benba Tsering's house, I saw their small workshop for making Tibetan incense, and Tibetan incense was still drying in the yard. I was attracted by this smell and couldn't help but brought a pack of Tibetan incense home. It is said that Tibetan incense is good for the body, Qi channels and mind. It can not only remove peculiar smell, purify the air, but also prevent colds and enhance sleep.
The hostess, Ajia, poured me a glass of highland barley wine, which was ice cold, clear and sweet, and opened up my new world of highland barley wine. It doesn't smell like alcohol, but it's so delicious. I drank several glasses in the living room, and the aftertaste is endless.
Shigatse is one of the most important cities in Houzang. In Shigatse, we chose the newly opened Sheli Bieyuan Hotel. I stayed in a diffuse oxygen double bed room, which is very friendly to friends who have just entered Tibet. The free oxygen supply room can make you sleep more soundly at night. The room is relatively Japanese style, neutral style, simple and clear, very comfortable log color style, the hotel is a semi-automatic room, even the toilet is warm. In terms of some details, Sheli Bieyuan did a good job.
Walking on the plateau in midsummer, both sides of the road are full of golden rapeseed flowers, and the highland barley is gradually maturing; under the vision of the drone, the yellow rapeseed flowers and the green highland barley waves are like a painting, and occasionally there is a barley The clear water reflects the blue sky, which is beyond words.
The third stop, Mount Everest Base Camp
On the way to Mount Everest Base Camp, passing Gyatso-la Mountain, it was just a stone tablet at first, and now there is a grand gate saying "You have entered the Mount Everest National Nature Reserve". Gyatsola Pass is 5,220 meters above sea level. If the weather is good, you can see four Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse and Makalu, which are more than 8,000 meters above sea level.
We often say that the Mount Everest Base Camp refers to Tashi Zongxiang, Tingri County. This is the base camp on the west slope of Mount Everest, and it is also a place that is relatively accessible to tourists. The car can drive all the way to Tashi Zongxiang, and then transfer to the shuttle bus to reach the tent area of the Mount Everest base camp at the foot of the Rongbuk Monastery, and you can see Mount Everest at a glance.
After buying tickets and entering the scenic spot, we came to the even more powerful Jiawula Pass, where the weather is good and we can see 5 peaks above 8,000 meters in one breath, and the snow mountain feast on the top. The intestine road at the foot of the mountain is a major feature of Mount Everest, as if telling you that I can't pass it and you still want to see Mount Everest up close.
Now the road is so good, the entire asphalt road has been there for many years, and it was hard work to go all the way to Mount Everest in the past. Now Tibet is really getting better and better, the scenic spots are perfect, and most of the road conditions are very good.
In order to protect the ecology, starting from 2019, the 5,200-meter monument that we could reach in previous years has been retreated a long way. At present, the only area we can get closest to Mount Everest is the Rongbuk Monastery. When a person comes to Tibet in his life, he always wants to take a look at Mount Everest. After all, it is also the highest peak in the world, with an altitude of 8848.86 meters. When we stand at an altitude of more than 5,000 meters and look at Mount Everest, it is good to just watch it quietly.
However, I haven’t been to Mount Everest Base Camp for only two years. When I came back, there were too many changes. A large black tent appeared at the foot of Rongbuk Monastery. The cement brick road between the tents made it easier for people to drag their suitcases. The conditions inside the tent are basically divided into small rooms with big beds or twin beds, so there is no need to sleep in full beds. There is even running water to brush your teeth and wash your face, which was an unimaginable condition before. If you feel that the accommodation conditions in the base camp are not good enough, there is also a hotel with very good accommodation conditions in Tashi Zongxiang, the transfer point for the eco-car transfer point.
It is recommended to stay at the Everest Base Camp for one night to watch the sunrise, sunset and starry sky. Now the conditions in the Everest base camp are really good. You can choose to eat a bowl of hot instant noodles, or let the store cook a pot of hot pot for you, which is considered a delicacy on Mount Everest.
The fourth stop, Shishapangma Peak and Pekuco
The G219 road to a great country has passed along the border. Now every time I go to Ali and Geelong, I will pass Shishapangma Peak and Pekutso. Mount Shishapangma is the only peak above 8,000 meters in China. As for the high mountain, I never thought about conquering it.
There are 14 peaks above 8,000 meters in the world, and it happens that Mount Shishapangma ranks 14th. It is only 120 kilometers away from Mount Everest. If you are lucky enough to see a whole row of Himalayas at the Ghaula Pass, you will clearly see Its mighty figure.
Xishapangma Peak means "severely cold and changeable climate" in Tibetan, and avalanches are more frequent in cool summer. Gongcuo camp is the campsite on the Shishapangma peak hiking route that I am thinking about. The mountain is there, so we still have to be in awe. Mount Shishapangma is composed of three sister peaks with similar elevations. It looks different from different angles, but every time you look at it in Pekucuo, it is a triangular and pointed mountain, which is very beautiful. Woolen cloth.
On the 219 National Highway, we can see Xishapangma Peak in the distance, and there is also the local characteristic "Gamba Sheep Head Pagoda". The custom-made "Yanghorn Pagoda" is a reliable project for Tibetan compatriots on the border to use electricity stably.
Wangshan ran a dead horse, and he had already seen Peikucuo from a distance, but he had not reached the lake after driving for a long time. There will be a small intersection on the side of the road where you can drive into the dirt road, close to the lake, it is recommended to drive in off-road vehicles, and you must follow the marks of the wheels.
Pekutso and Xishapangma Peak have been around for many years. There are often wild horses and birds inhabiting the lake. It is worth staying in a daze by the lake. The parking lot on the mountainside overlooks Pekutso, and there is sweet tea to drink, which is very nice .
Fifth stop, Geelong
Geelong is the top priority of Fani Ancient Road. Geelong is located in the middle of the Himalayas, southwest of Shigatse. Geelong borders Nepal. Princess Chizun married Songtsan Gampo before arriving in Lhasa. We went to see the inscription of the Great Tang Tianzhu Envoy in Zongga Town, which also explained that in the Tang Dynasty, the main trade route between the Central Plains and Tubo, Nibhara, and Tianzhu was Geelong.
After crossing the Kongtanglam Pass at an altitude of 5,236 meters, our destination is Jilong Town. Jilong County, which is 4,300 meters above sea level, is only 73 kilometers away from Jilong Town, which is only 2,800 meters above sea level. The entire Jilong Valley has a total of more than 90 kilometers.
The scenery from Kongtanglam Pass is very different. The top of the mountain is undoubtedly a plateau scenery. A large row of snow-capped mountains is in front of you. If you continue to drive forward, you will come to Yingxionggou, a typical plateau desert landform. Continue to go south, and the dwarf bushes are all over the mountains, next to the galloping Jilong Zangbo.
After driving for a while, there was a large area of fog in front of Jilonggou, and then we were brought into the virgin forest area. I still remember that at the time of Thirteen, he was very excited. Seeing the green mountains and plains surrounded by clouds and mist like a fairyland, he shouted that he would stay here and go to submit a resume for recruitment. It's really such an exaggeration. What you see in Lhasa all the year round is the vast expanse of snow-capped mountains.
This narrow river valley in the Himalayas - Jilonggou gives people a different feeling from Medog, Nyingchi, and Bomi. It is very special. One second you are still looking at the snow-capped mountains, and the next second you are entering the rural scenery. The snow-capped mountains surround the entire Jilong Valley, and you can basically see them when you look up. Steep mountain peaks, flowing waterfalls, dense forests, rugged mountain roads... together constitute this dreamy town.
It was late in Geelong town, and it happened to be the thirteenth birthday, so we drank together late at night in the town. When I woke up in the morning, it was past 9:30, I opened the window, and the snow-capped mountains came into view. I am in Jilong Town at an altitude of 2,800 meters. I was at the 5,236-meter pass of Kongtanglam Mountain yesterday, all the way to the south, wild mountains, beautiful canyons, and dense forests. This is how the scenery in front of me changes step by step. Really shocked.
Jilong Town is the core area of Jilong Valley. There are Naicun and Zhacun nearby to see the snow mountain grassland on the top of the mountain, Jipu Village to see the entire Jipu Grand Canyon, and Resuo Village to go to Resuo Bridge. If I could only go to one place, I would definitely choose Nomura.
Nomura can hike up from Geelong Town, but since we are short on time, it is more convenient to take a taxi up and down the mountain. After getting out of the car and climbing two steps, I arrived at the viewing platform of Nomura. I was stunned by the picture in front of me. Forest and grassland, flowers in full bloom, surrounded by snow-capped mountains. This is simply not the world, only heaven is this beauty. For a while, I didn't know how to press the shutter.
Nomura means "holy place on the top of the mountain" in Tibetan. It is a naturally formed viewing platform. It is the season of wild flowers blooming on the alpine meadow.
The platform of Nomura has a wide field of vision and a rich sense of layering. The surrounding snow-capped mountains are surrounded by lush green slopes. It is a good place to watch the sunrise of Jinshan. Doing nothing at this moment, just staring at this beautiful scenery in a daze, is already very happy.
Reluctantly leaving Nomura, we are ready to return. We are traveling through the virgin forest. We are attracted by a waterfall. It is like a white hada exposed in the mountains. The 300-meter-high waterfall still looks very shocking. people's hearts. This time I came to Kaire Waterfall, there is already a parking lot next to it, and the wooden plank road is also under construction. I believe it will be a mature viewing spot in the near future.
The recruiting barrier is on the only way from Jilong County to Jilong Town. It is a dangerous and important road on the Fanni Ancient Road. These four words also commemorate the victory of the Qing army's counterattack against the Gurkha invasion at that time.
We couldn't see the stone carvings in the inscription of Tianzhu Shizhi in the Tang Dynasty, but we were attracted by a piece of rapeseed. The rape blossoms on the plateau bloom in July and August, just like a vast and boundless golden ocean, fluttering with the wind, with the heart-pounding snow-capped mountains in the background.
The sixth stop, snow mountain feast
After coming out of Jilonggou, we started our return journey, and the destination was to stay in Tingri. It is highly recommended, if you have time, you must take a sunset at the ruins of Mount Everest in Old Dingri (Gangga Town). This road is the feast of snow mountains in the Himalayas. Every time I walk on this road, I can’t bear to sleep, and my eyes are always staring out of the window.
At the time of this sunset, I happened to be still on my way, so I just took a few pictures of the snow-capped mountains in the car without stopping.
Some small Tips
1. Most of this route belongs to border areas, remember to apply for a border defense certificate before starting.
2. Tibet is located on a plateau, the weather is dry, and the ultraviolet rays are particularly strong. Our car curtains are not enough to protect against sun protection. So remember to do a good job of sun protection, such as wearing hats, umbrellas, and sunscreen at all times.
3. Lip balm and thermos cup are essential things on the road. It is very uncomfortable to have chapped lips. If there is a slight high reaction, the thermos cup can effectively relieve the discomfort of the body.