Four Lives and Flowers∣Eleven Days in the 18th Spring Festival in Southwest Yunnan and North Myanmar

【origin】

A Tale of Four Lives and Flowers: Sticking to growth, repeating itself

I have always told my buddies that when I can grow old smoothly, I will definitely buy a small barren hill in Yunnan, build a wooden house on the hill, and then plant all kinds of flowers on the whole hill, lively sunflowers, tall High rose walls, dreamy lavender fields...

Only in Yunnan, flowers can bloom in all seasons, and you can stand quietly in it and feel the tranquility of time; only in Yunnan, you are always generous with sunshine, the coolness of blue sky and white clouds and the optimism of bright sunshine are always together.

Traveling all over the country is a dream about freedom, and returning to Yunnan is another destination besides hometown.

After graduating from university, the first stop of the gap year, spent half a year leisurely in Lijiang, radiating Dali Shangri-La. At that time, it seemed that Dali was not so talked about by people, and Lijiang was not so much criticized, but those good memories are still there. It is still fermenting today, which makes me always feel that it is only their goodness that has not been fully felt by those who say they are not good; after working for a period of time, I suddenly wanted to escape those hustle and bustle, so I eloped to Xishuangbanna with my mood; after knowing each other for many years At the invitation of a friend who met for the first time later, I went to Honghe, accompanied by my friend Axi, singing wine songs, bouncing the three lines and dancing to the moon...

In a blink of an eye, I didn't return to Yunnan for nearly two years.

Winter in Chengdu is my least favorite season, cold and gloomy, so I suddenly missed the unbridled sunshine in Yunnan, which led to the trip to Southwest Yunnan. Le volunteered to plan the route by himself, so in the end he ignored everything and just went on the road.

When the heart is blinded by the dust sprinkled by the world, it is always easy to make people feel that the world is not beautiful enough. However, if you think about it carefully, this world is just a convective wind brought by the rotation of this small blue planet; as long as you are brave enough to move forward, the road ahead will always be full of sunshine.

【Itinerary】

DAY 1: (2.18) Chengdu (13:00) - [train K113 hard sleeper] (18H) - forward ing

DAY 2: (2.19) [Train K113 Hard Sleeper] - Kunming (07:15); Dingsujia Village B&B; Yunnan Ethnic Village (10:30-17:30); Golden Horse and Jade Rooster (18:30-19:30 ); live in Sujia Village, Kunming.

DAY 3: (2.20) [Kunming Day Tour] (08:00-22:00); Stone Forest (09:00-13:00) + Yiliang Yizhai Lunch + Jiuxiang (15:00-19:00); Stay in Dabanqiao Village, Kunming Airport.

DAY 4: (2.21) Kunming——[Xiangpeng 8L9857] (06:30-07:20)——Tengchong; [Tengchong chartered car for two days]; Tengchong Rehai Hot Spring (09:00-13:00); Heshun Ancient Town (14:00-18:00); Stay in Tengchong City.

DAY 5: (2.22) [Tengchong chartered car for two days]; Big and Small Kongshan Volcano Scenic Area (09:00-13:00); Heiyu River + Columnar Joint Scenic Area (13:30-15:00); "Dream Tengchong" performance (20 :00-21:15); stay in downtown Tengchong.

DAY 6: (2.23) Tengchong - [Intercity Bus] (08:40-12:00) - Ruili; Passport at the Entry-Exit Center + Passport at the Municipal Public Security Bureau (12:30-14:30); One Village and Two Countries Scenic spot (15:00-18:00); Jingpo hand-picked rice (18:00-19:00); Su Ruili urban area.

DAY 7: (2.24) [Myanmar Day Tour] (08:30-14:00); Ruili Jiegao Port + Tianya Dijiao Monument + Customs Pass (08:30-10:00); Muse City, Myanmar (10 :00-14:00) (Chanlin Temple + Gaoshan Temple + downtown market + Bathing Buddha Temple + long-necked people and demon performances in Huangcheng Paradise); Ruili China-Myanmar Street (14:30-16:00); Ruili City Eating and drinking (Nongenpaoluda + Dai market hunting + downtown buffet); stay in downtown Ruili.

DAY 8: (2.25) Ruili - [chartered car] (CNY300, 1.5H) - Mangshi; Mengbala West Scenic Spot in Mangshi (11:30-15:00); eating and drinking in Mangshi (Jingpo Shoufan+ Lemon sprinkle+massage); Sumangshi urban area.

DAY 9: (2.26) Lazy and natural wake up (12:30); Mangshi Menghuan Shwedagon Pagoda (14:00-17:00); Mangshi eating and drinking (Jingpo hand-picked rice + sticky oil noodles, pot stickers); Mangshi——[Ruili Airlines PR6506] (21:50-22:40); stay in Huajing Village, Kunming Airport.

DAY 10: (2.27) Wake up naturally (11:30); Kunming Airport——[Metro: Line 6—Eastern Bus Station—Line 3—Dongfeng Plaza—Line 2—(no need to turn, sit straight)—No. 1 Line] (1H)——Kunming Railway Station; Golden Horse and Jade Rooster Bridge Xiangyuan Crossing Bridge Rice Noodles; Kunming (19:40)——[Train K166 Hard Sleeper] (17H)——Forward ing.

DAY 11: (2.28) [Train K166 Hard Sleeper] - Chengdu (12:55).

Le has always been a hands-off shopkeeper. This is the first time to design a route. He has worked hard enough, but there are still shortcomings. There are constant conflicts along the way. Fortunately, Joy is also full.

【Subtotal of expenses】

Total budget: CNY4000+ per capita.

Big details:

(1) Transportation: CNY255.5 for one side of the hard sleeper lower berth on the train from Chengdu to Kunming; CNY350 for air tickets from Kunming to Tengchong during the Spring Festival; CNY90 for the intercity bus from Tengchong to Ruili; CNY300 for 4 people in a chartered car from Ruili to Mangshi (including toll 73) ; Mangshi to Kunming air ticket CNY590; Tengchong chartered tour CNY200/car/day.

(2) Scenic spots: One day in Kunming (Stone Forest + Jiuxiang) including CNY398 + Stone Forest battery fare CNY25; Yunnan Minzu Village ticket CNY72 (20% off during the Spring Festival); Tengchong Hot Spring Volcano Package (Resea Scenic Spot + Yugu Hot Spring + Big and Small Empty Mountains +Columnar joints+Heiyu River) CNY318; Fantastic Tengchong show ticket CNY128 (preferential price); Heshun Ancient Town ticket CNY40 (student ticket); Ruili Yizhai two countries + China-Myanmar street pick-up and ticket CNY100; Myanmar Muse Day Tour ( Tickets included) CNY350 + folk song and dance performances at their own expense CNY50; Mangshi Mengbala West Treasure Garden ticket CNY30; Mangshi Menghuan Shwedagon Pagoda ticket CNY40.

(3) Board and lodging: standard rooms in B&Bs and business hotels are CNY80-130; Ruili Jingpo hand-picked rice set meal for four is CNY160; Mangshi hand-picked rice meal for four is CNY45; paoluda is CNY6-10, etc.

[Kunming chapter] Where is the spring city without flying flowers (Ethnic Village + Stone Forest + Jiuxiang)

★Let's go! green leather train

I remember that the first time I came to Kunming was almost twelve years ago. At that time, I and my classmates took the green leather train from Xichang to Kunming, and arrived in Kunming for the first time for nearly ten hours. The fare was only more than 20 yuan. It's not a holiday, so there are few people in the car, clean and full of old cracked hard seat soft leather, the windows can be opened, and the wind blowing in has the unique refreshing and dry fragrance of Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau.

Since then, travel has been silently defined into my life.

I remember that the mountain opposite the school seemed quite close, but I once planned to hike up the mountain with my classmates, but I still couldn’t reach the foot of the mountain after riding a bicycle all day. There is a long railway crossing between the school and the mountain, and there are always trains running one train after another at regular intervals every day. At night, if you can't sleep, you can sit on the playground and overlook the opposite mountain and the "Kuchakucha" train running slowly in the distance. At that time, I found that the Daliang Mountain at night was black, but the night sky was dark blue; the shadow of the mountain stood still like a handsome beast under the night sky, but the night sky above the mountain was full of stars, like a gentle lake.

The train running past the dark mountainside, the lights in the windows flickering, as the train moved forward, it turned into shooting stars and marched in formation.

So unconsciously, I read the nursery rhyme gently in my heart: long train, long train, green light on the top of the black mountain, little stars dangling around the waist...

That picture has a kind of intoxicating tranquility.

I always feel that traveling by train can better appreciate the taste of travel, because the infinitely magnified sense of space and the wanton lost travel time will make people more able to pursue the feeling of far away. After leaving school, I gradually took more and more planes, but often after getting off the plane, it takes a long time to adapt to a strange city before I gradually realize, oh, I have already left Chengdu, and the pleasure of conquering a distant place , becoming thinner and thinner like a layer of air that seems to have nothing.

The last time I took a train trip was in 2013, from Chengdu to Yinchuan, then from Yinchuan to Xining, and finally from Xining back to Chengdu. The last time was the trip to Pingyao and Taiyuan during the Spring Festival last year.

If time permits, even though the journey is tiring, I still hope to take more train trips, to listen to the continuous sound of the rails crashing outside the window, to feel the slowly elongated space, to feel the stories of the strangers sleeping beside me, Then hold this book, wait for the time to pass, and usher in the unknown in the distance.

The driving time of K113 is 1 pm. During the Spring Festival, Chengdu North Railway Station is extremely crowded. It seems that it has never been relaxed in my impression. It is always so busy and crowded, which makes people nervous. Me, Le, Meme, and Adu checked tickets and entered the station, only to find that our seats were not next to each other, so we became four isolated islands, drifting in the long green leather carriage.

Sleeping on the bed opposite me is a group of Yunnan uncles, their eyes are already cloudy, and they seem a little dull and not good at speaking. Only when chatting with fellow countrymen, their expressions will be slightly vivid, and they speak Yunnan dialect that I can’t understand at all—although I It can also be considered that I have lived in Yunnan, and I have deliberately learned the Yunnan dialect of Northwest Yunnan. One of their aunts sleeps next door. She looks like a typical image of a rural woman in Yunnan. She also had a simple and happy expression when making instant noodles and chatting with them. When chatting with another woman, she mentioned that her daughter married to Sichuan, but her son-in-law passed away suddenly. The worry and helplessness about the future life made her burst into tears every time she talked about it.

The train is like a long bridge, connecting two different distant places. Some people cross the bridge leisurely, just a traveler enjoying freedom;

After nightfall, I found it difficult to fall asleep, although the snoring of the uncle in Yunnan next to me was indeed quite loud, although the child in a certain family a few beds away was crying and screaming stubbornly, although the lights reflected in the world outside the window above my head were flickering and flickering, but before Train travel can always go off without these deep slumbers.

Perhaps, as I get older, I can no longer look forward to the distance heartlessly, but my heart is somewhat sharper, and I am more afraid of the disturbance from the outside world.

Leaving the Chengdu Plain and entering the border of Daliang Mountain, the train began to pass through the tunnel endlessly. I was used to the intermittent roar when I was studying. People in Yi costumes. However, at this point, the mobile phone bid farewell to the signal, and people became more and more like isolated islands, exiled in the belly of this long green bridge, and moved forward with it.

Originally arrived at the site at 7:42, but arrived in Kunming at 7:15 ahead of schedule.

When I walked out of Kunming Railway Station, it was still dark, and the smell of the air, which was completely different from Chengdu, filled my nostrils. Le lost his train ticket when he was in Chengdu, so he bought one in advance, and went to the train station to get a refund when he arrived in Kunming. The Kunming Railway Station at this time is a little different from what I remember. The previous few times I came to Yunnan, I had already gone to Changshui Airport, so this time I saw that the dam in front of the railway station was surrounded by layers. The Taurus has long been hidden and hard to see. The accident a few years ago still makes people feel uncomfortable at this time.

In the early morning of February in Kunming, the air was so cold that it was slightly chilly, and the trip to the Spring Festival kicked off.

Tip: K113 from Chengdu North Railway Station to Kunming Station, 13:00—07:42 (+1Day), CNY255.5 for hard sleeper lower berth.

★Ten Years Traveling through Ethnic Villages

Sure enough, Le gave us a big "surprise" when he made the itinerary for the first time. He didn't book accommodation in advance when traveling during the Spring Festival... Then he booked accommodation on the train before arriving in Kunming in the morning, but it was located near the South Railway Station. It takes more than an hour to take a taxi, and it is far away from the scenic spot. Although there is a direct subway, we still pass it directly.

However, I overlooked one more thing. This is the first time I came to Kunming, because we planned to leave our luggage and go to the ethnic village, so we planned to book nearby, and then she looked for accommodation near Dianchi Lake, but Dianchi Lake is really big, okay? ? Finally, we settled in Sujia Village. We took the No. 44 bus and almost arrived at the Minzu Village. Then we continued to transfer to the township minibus No. 94, bypassing Haigeng Park and walking through Nanshan. It took almost an hour to arrive. Arrive at Sujia Village.

The B&B is actually very beautiful. The exterior walls are covered with green ivy, and the wooden pavilions in the small courtyard are decorated with rockery fountains, which look fresh and natural. In addition, there are all kinds of flowers everywhere. During the Spring Festival, when the north is still a frozen planet, the unique weather in Yunnan makes the place full of flowers, which makes people feel very beautiful. Moreover, from the balcony on the fourth floor, you can overlook the Dianchi Lake outside the village, and the Nanshan Mountain behind it. The only disadvantage is that it is a little far away from the urban area, but it is much cleaner.

Because we booked a room temporarily and the room hadn't been cleaned yet, we put our large luggage in the lobby, took the public washroom to wash up, and then set off against the sun. I ate rice noodles for breakfast in a small town. This is the first time I came to Yunnan, and I ate rice noodles for the first time, and it tasted very good. The proprietress is a real person. She said that during the Spring Festival, there will be an extra charge of two yuan for each bowl. I hope Understand, in fact, even if you add two yuan, the price/performance ratio of that big bowl is quite high.

Tip: Kunming Railway Station - Sujia Village (Route 44 to Route 94, takes 1 hour, fare is 2 yuan); the price of a standard room in Sujia Village during the Spring Festival is 130 yuan.

94 to No. 44, township minibuses are extremely crowded. When driving past Dianchi Lake, the large bright lake is close at hand, and many stupid seagulls (after watching "Finding Nemo", I always feel that the seagulls are dumb) leisurely. Rest by the lake.

The ancient city of Kunming outside the ethnic village is crowded with people, the stone road is extremely smooth, and the waiters in ethnic costumes warmly greet visitors from all walks of life.

I saw the baked milk fan, one of the Eighteen Monsters in Yunnan, "milk is baked and sold". It is named after the shape of a fan.

I remember when I first came to the National Village 12 years ago, there was no free scenic spot in the old city of Kunming at the entrance, and the ticket was only 40 yuan, including a free performance of "Plateau Red Soil Love". Because there are dozens of ethnic villages in it, performing their own ethnic programs at different time points, so running around in the huge ethnic village in order to watch more programs at that time was really full of youthful atmosphere.

Tickets for the Ethnic Village have now risen to 90 yuan, with a discount of 72 yuan during the Spring Festival. There is already an additional fee for the performance, which costs more than 100 yuan, and you can buy a package ticket. Even though the ticket price has increased, I still think the most interesting place in Kunming is the ethnic village, after all, it condenses all the essence of Yunnan's scenic spots. In view of the fact that I have been to ethnic villages many times, the summed up experience is that there may not be enough time to watch all the programs in each village, so everyone decided not to watch the performances but only buy tickets.

The day I arrived was the fourth day of the Lunar New Year, and the previous day happened to be the Tibetan New Year, so I missed the Tibetan New Year program in the ethnic village. During the Spring Festival, the program schedule among the villages was also slightly adjusted. We searched according to the program and first came to the Dai Village. Thanks to my many trips to ethnic villages over the past ten years, at least finding the target village can save a lot of time.

The programs of ethnic villages are not fixed. Some villages, such as Wa villages, I can watch every time, and they are almost the same every time; I only saw the Huohai program once, and I haven’t seen it several times recently; I saw the program of the Dai Village 12 years ago, and there has been no program since then.

When they arrived at the performance site, the gong had already sounded, and several young Dai boys and girls were dancing the Dai dance in national costumes, and then performed Dai ancient martial arts, men's peacock dance, Dai deer dance and Dai songs, etc. .

Although the peacock dance is well-known by the people of the country, Yang Liping is actually a Bai nationality in Dali, and the real peacock dance is a male dance that originated in Dehong, and there are related peacock props to assist the dance. After thinking about it, I will I am still looking forward to going to Ruili.

The deer dance is actually similar to the lion dance, but the Dai people use the golden red deer as a metaphor for "Maoduoli" (Dai language: handsome guy).

Coming out of the Dai village, we immediately rushed to the Munao Zongge Square according to the program search. The performances of the Jingpo, Achang, and De'ang ethnic groups are about to begin, and Jingpo, Achang, and De'ang are unique to Dehong Prefecture, which we are about to go to. three nationalities. Among them, there are only more than 20,000 De'ang people in the country. The old name is Benglong, and only more than 100 people live outside Dehong Prefecture; the Achang people are also a very small ethnic group.

First of all, there are musical performances such as Tuliang and Xiangjiao drums of the Jingpo people, and then there are wood brain songs, wedding customs performances and Jingpo Yinpao Dance. After being introduced by the host, I found out that this year’s Jingpo’s largest festival, the Mu Nao Zongge Festival, is on March 1st, and the venue for this year’s grandest festival is Ruili. It's a pity that we just left Yunnan on the 28th. It would be great if we could go to Mu Naozong Song Festival in Ruili for one more day.

After Jingpo Achang’s show was over, he rushed to Wa village without stopping. Although the program of Wa village has not been updated too much, they never miss every time they perform, and there are relatively more highlights in the show . When I arrived at the Wa village, I found that today’s program started with an extra activity of killing chickens and offering sacrifices to wooden drums. According to the host, this is because today is the wooden drum festival of the Wa people. According to tradition, the Wooden Drum Sacrifice requires plagiarizing cattle, and before the Wa people walk out of the mountains, they even hunt for human heads. However, in the ethnic villages in Kunming, they can only sacrifice chickens.

After coming out of the Wa village, follow the program search and continue to walk through the village of the Bai nationality. It happened that the girl of the Bai nationality on the stage was performing the Bawang whip. The sky in Kunming is blue and transparent at this time, and under the blue sky and white clouds is the cool air of February. Among the painted walls of Bai Village, it seems that I have really returned to the time when I was in Dali.

Pass through the Bai Village to reach the Yi Village. Because the Yi nationality is a large ethnic group in Yunnan, the Yi nationality village is also very large, and the programs are also good. I grew up in Daliang Mountain, so I also have a unique affection for the Yi people. The Yi costumes worn by the actors in the Yi village are different every time. I have seen them wearing Axi people, Sani people, and Huayao Yi before, but this time the costumes are closer to Liangshan costumes. After the left foot tune and toasting song, a man of the Yi nationality performed various unique musical instruments of the Yi nationality.

Coming out of the Yi village, we went to the nearest Mosuo village. During my studies, I had a friend who was a Mosuo. He told me very seriously that although the country classifies them as Naxi, they themselves identify themselves as Mongolians. Speaking of which, I have almost traveled all over the country, but I have never been to Lugu Lake, which is so close to me. Teacher Yang Erche Namu once gave us a class. In my opinion, she is not only the "crazy" woman wearing red flowers in the eyes of many people who don't understand her, but more like carrying a basket of flowers. Eggs a few dollars to get out of the most remote matriarchal society in the west, and then alone in Shanghai, out of China, a powerful woman who dares to love and hate; even then, when she sings "Madami" in her hometown, the tenderness seems to be The appearance of the water seems to be like the moonlight of Lugu Lake. Le has always been fascinated by Lugu Lake, and not long ago, Chengdu just opened Lugu Lake, and it seems that it can be put on the itinerary soon.

Next to the Mosuo House is the Naxi village. The Naxi girl with the "stars and the moon" on her back is standing in front of the white wall and blue tile painting wall, just like the Naxi friends I used to be around when I was living in Lijiang, but time flies by. .

After leaving the Naxi village, it was already 3 o'clock in the afternoon, and I felt a little hungry. There are not many places to eat in the ethnic village, and the snacks in the garden are a little expensive. However, during the Spring Festival, various stalls were set up next to the Lisu village next to the central square to form a long ethnic snack street. I briefly asked about the price, roasted chicken drumsticks cost 10 yuan a piece, baked tofu 10 yuan a piece, bamboo tube rice 10 yuan a piece, roast chicken 60 to 80 yuan a piece, meat skewers 10 yuan for three skewers, potatoes 10 yuan a piece... There are all kinds of unnamed ethnic snacks, most of which are 10 yuan a piece. We bought a bunch and then found a seat in the Lisu village and made a bunch of them to satisfy our hunger.

At around 4 o'clock, go to the Lahu village, ready to watch the last group of programs before the ethnic village closes at 5:30. The Lahu village mainly involves several ethnic groups in southern Yunnan, including the Jinuo ethnic group in Xishuangbanna, the Lahu ethnic group in Pu'er, and the Miao and Yao ethnic groups in Wenshan Prefecture.

I remember when I came to the Lahu village 12 years ago. At that time, there were no programs in the villages of these small ethnic groups. A Lahu girl sat on the stilts and sang Lahu folk songs that she could not understand. When I came again, there was a Lahu man holding a guitar and singing. Because missionaries entered Yunnan from the south, guitar and singing are very popular among the Lahu, Miao, Yao and other ethnic groups in Yunnan. The cheerful guitar sound and the melodious tune of the Lahu people are really a perfect match. I once thought that Lahu The folk songs of the ethnic group are one of the most beautiful folk songs in Yunnan.

Before the show started, I went to the nearby Jinuo stilted building. The bamboo building was full of tourists eating barbecue, and then there was banana leaf sweet cake for sale at the door, 5 yuan each. Material, taste is very good. The Jinuo nationality is the last of the 56 nationalities recognized by the State Council, and it is also a nation that jumped out of the primitive society. I remember reading the allusion that Jinuo's self-proclaimed name actually originated from the soldiers left in southern Yunnan during Zhuge Liang's conquest of Yunnan. Many people come here, and the Jino people live in Jino Mountain in Xishuangbanna for a long time. They are famous for their hard work. Even the Dai people who don't like intermarriage with foreigners often have the custom of intermarrying with the Jino people. When I went to Xishuangbanna, due to time constraints, I couldn't go to Jinuo Mountain in the end, which is a pity.

The performances in the Lahu Village mainly focus on the performances of marriage customs. In the previous "Love on Red Earth" performances, there was a chapter dedicated to the marriage customs of Jinuo and Lahu in the bamboo forest. Unfortunately, it is no longer available. The host applied for the audience to dance the bamboo pole dance, and Adu readily went there, chasing after the crowd with the little brother of the Jino tribe, and then ended with the bamboo pole dance. The marriage customs of the Lahu people are love songs and climbing poles. Le had already participated in it once when he came here last autumn. That time his hand was scratched by the hemp rope and was bloody. As a result, he was selected again this time. The same Lahu girl, but the speed at which he climbed the pole surprised us. He climbed to the top in two or three strokes, picked flowers, and then ran across the single-plank bridge with the Lahu girl in his arms.

After watching the performance in the Lahu village, walk out from the villages of Man, Hui, Shui and Yao, and walk to the Tibetan village for a rest. Because yesterday’s Tibetan New Year’s performance has ended, today’s Tibetan village basically sees no staff except tourists, and most of them go home on vacation.

Originally, I wanted to visit the village of the Achang ethnic group, but I happened to meet the little brother of the Achang ethnic group who was performing wedding customs in the morning and locked the door. Only then did I realize that it was already 5:30 in the afternoon, and the ethnic village had already begun to clear the venue. Several grandmas in Sani costumes at the gate wanted to buy tickets to enter the park, but the security guard told them that they could not enter the park at 5 o'clock.

Coming out of the ethnic village, I planned to take the A1 bus to the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster. As a result, the flow of people during the Spring Festival was really terrible, and tourists from all walks of life almost fought in front of the bus.

Not long after I arrived at Jinbi Plaza, I didn’t have time to take a good look around. I found out that the rural BUS back to Sujia Village closed at 8 o’clock, so I hurried back, planning to take the subway and then transfer to No. 94, and then...we got lost! After getting on the subway, everyone’s opinions were not unified. When we finally got out of the station, it was already dark, and then we didn’t know where we were in the wilderness. I wanted to relax all the way, so I didn't touch the strategy route plan or anything. As a result, I got lost on the first day in Kunming... Finally, I finally found a minibus master to take us back to Sujia Village.

Well, I had dinner in Sujia Village and ordered the small white fish from Dianchi Lake to suppress my shock.

★Follow Ashima

I have always felt that being able to distinguish and draw the main costumes of 56 ethnic groups since elementary school is considered a talent. After all, even at the current age, many people around me can't even tell which ethnic groups there are. But the Yi nationality alone has six ancestor branches, nearly a hundred small branches, and more than 300 different branch costumes, but I have a special liking for the Sani costumes.

If it is because of the "Ashima" movie, it was before I was born, but I am actually much more familiar with "Five Golden Flowers" in comparison.

Later, I finally remembered that when I was only 4 or 5 years old, I saw my father hand-painted the portrait of Ashima on Ashima’s cigarettes at that time. The images that seemed extremely complicated at the time were appreciated by many elders, and thus started my unscrupulous art path.

So, probably the obsession with Ashima has been deeply rooted in my heart since the first time I can remember?

However, I have been to Yunnan so many times, followed the Axi people to jump over the moon, and I have never been to the Stone Forest where the Sani people live so close to Kunming.

Stone Forest is a world natural heritage, a world geological park, and a national 5A scenic spot. Regardless of my former geography teacher status or my own Ashima complex, I should be happy to go this time.

During the Spring Festival, the crowds are crowded. Since we will get lost when we go back to Sujia Village, the last 4 people discussed and decided to sign up for a one-day tour of Kunming. The route mainly includes Shilin and Jiuxiang, and lunch is in Yizhai in Yiliang. I don’t have much impression of Jiuxiang, but the various large advertisements at the train station seem to indicate that it is currently a scenic spot that Yunnan has vigorously created, and the promotional pictures of cartoon characters seem very modern, but combined with the ancient history of origin, it is still very impressive. interest.

I have always been against newspaper groups, especially domestic newspaper groups. Although I know that the bad cases in those reports are only isolated phenomena, I also stubbornly believe that this is something that only grandparents love to do, and I absolutely do not believe that there is no compulsory consumption. However, Le was too lazy to plan a few trips before, and he was impressed by a one-day tour group. Under his lobbying, and during the Spring Festival, he was too lazy to plan routes and wait in line to grab tickets. Finally, he chose a day group. In other words, this one-day tour is quite impressive. There is indeed no mandatory consumption, and although the scenic spots are a little tight, if we take the route by ourselves, I am afraid that we can only go to Shilin in one day, and Jiuxiang will not be there at all. And we My plan is to get up early tomorrow morning.

Moreover, because you have to stay at the airport at night, after checking out in the morning, your luggage will be hung all the way in the tour bus of the one-day tour group, which is very convenient; in addition, more than half of the participants are young people. Although there is not much communication, it is not like As embarrassing as I expected. Therefore, in fact, as long as you don't be greedy for cheap, it is still acceptable to report those prices that are ridiculously cheap.

Tip: The one-day tour fee of Shilin + Jiuxiang is CNY398 (excluding the 25 yuan for the Shilin battery car), and the taxi fare of 20 yuan will be reimbursed at the meeting place. Gather at 8 o'clock and disband at the train station at 10 o'clock in the evening. The 78-kilometer journey from Kunming to Shilin takes 1H, the journey from Shilin to Jiuxiang takes 1H, and the journey from Jiuxiang to Kunming Railway Station takes 3H. The whole journey from Kunming to Shilin is high-speed, and the second lane from Shilin to Jiuxiang Panshan, the road conditions are very average.

Check out from the B&B in Sujia Village at 7:40, and then ask the owner of the B&B to call a car and send it to the meeting point near the train station. After gathering at 8:00, the tour guide Xiaobai is a Yi girl of mixed race in Chongqing and Kunming. She is thin but not weak. She looks pretty, and according to her, there are too many tourists in Shilin and Jiuxiang these days, and the group left after midnight last night, and she continued to lead the group early this morning. After getting on the bus, we reimbursed the cost of taking a taxi to the meeting point one by one. A group of people can claim up to 20 yuan.

On the one-hour expressway from Kunming to Stone Forest, Xiaobai began to explain the customs of Yunnan to the tourists in the car. I'm pretty familiar with Yunnan, but it's the first time I've heard some interesting things; and most of the tourists in the car are not from the southwestern region, so it's interesting to hear.

Xiaobai said that Yunnan people say "eating" instead of "eating" but "drying" and "going to the toilet" instead of "going to the toilet" but "singing", because the toilets in the countryside used to be simple and the girls went to the toilet and sang Save men from running around. Toilets are a custom in each place. When I was in Dali many years ago, I heard from Bai friends that there was only one toilet in their village. The family did not repair toilets. It was not because they were poor, but because they felt that they were not clean. Then Xiaobai talked about the Nujiang, Dehong, Xishuangbanna, Chuxiong, Honghe, Wenshan, Dali, and Diqing ethnic autonomous prefectures in Yunnan, as well as several main ethnic minorities in Yunnan, such as Yi, Dai, and Tibetan, and more than 20 native ethnic groups. Some customs of ethnic minorities.

I understood most of what she said, and the sun outside the window gradually began to shine brightly. The sunshine on the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau always makes people forget that this fashion dazzles people through the car windows during the Spring Festival.

Arriving at the Stone Forest Scenic Area at around 9 o'clock, before getting off the bus, I heard the sound of three lines rumbling outside the window, and then groups of Sani people in costumes danced happily to the moon. I have lived in the area of ​​the Yi nationality for too long, and for a long time even radio gymnastics has been replaced by the dance of the Yi nationality, so listening to these music sounds, my heart is eager to move.

However, after getting off the bus, we found that there are really so many people! The unique weather in Yunnan makes the people of Yunnan a hometown treasure, and the cold weather during the Spring Festival seems to make half of Chinese tourists crowd to Yunnan to bask in the sun! In the past, during the Spring Festival, people either left the country or went to relatively unpopular scenic spots. I didn’t think so, but now I saw people crowded at the entrance of the scenic spot and it was difficult to move. The scene was really scary!

Although I want to follow the Sani people to jump the moon, I want to take more pictures of Sani girls in costumes, but I am really afraid of being separated from the group, which is very irresponsible to other tourists, so I dare not move around and stand obediently. The place designated by Xiaobai is waiting for her to buy a ticket and return.

The self-purchased ticket for Stone Forest Scenic Area is 175 per person, which is already included in the group fare, but we need to pay for the battery car fee, 25 yuan per person, or you can walk in for 30 minutes without buying, but the time of the group tour itself is tight, everyone Still unanimously bought the battery ticket.

Although it takes about 30 minutes to walk, in fact, it takes almost half an hour to wait in line for the battery car during the Spring Festival. We lined up in batches, and then took the battery car to get off at the gate of the museum to gather, and then Xiaobai led us to the scenic spot.

Passing through the Stone Forest Lake, I had no time to linger and take pictures, so I followed Xiaobai into the Dashilin Scenic Area. The stone forest is divided into large and small stone forests, Changhu Lake, Butiao Mountain, Zhiyun Cave and other scenic spots, and we need to arrive at the lunch spot before 1:00, and we can only roughly visit the essence of the large and small stone forest scenic spots in about 3 hours.

The Dashilin Scenic Area is full of strange rocks, which is the most typical and unique karst landform. Although I have seen the appearance of the stone forest countless times in various albums, I still feel the shock of nature's uncanny workmanship when I am in it. However, unlike what you see on the posters, there is really no place to step down in the strange stone forest at this time! A narrow passageway in the stone forest, it takes more than half a day to pass through the crowded queues. Forget it, during the Spring Festival, you should have had such mental preparations. Fortunately, after the Spring Festival holiday on the sixth day of the Lunar New Year, the unknown journey in Southwest Yunnan really began.

Climb to the Wangfeng Pavilion and stand at the commanding height of the Stone Forest to look at the entire Great Stone Forest Scenic Area. If you ignore the crowded crowds around you, which are as crowded as the subway cars in the morning rush hour, you will actually feel very good. There are some elder sisters who come to Shilin to travel in national costumes, which have become the scenery in the eyes of foreign tourists. It is not clear which branch they belong to, but the costumes are completely different from those of the Sani people. I especially like this kind of life-style national dress that is so different in the eyes of outsiders but so consistent in their ethnic group. This is a kind of civilization inheritance that belongs to the small cultural circle. After thousands of years of humanistic changes, in this big information explosion It is amazing that the era is still preserved so independently and completely.

Going down the mountain from the Big Stone Forest Scenic Area, I happened to meet a group of Sani people jumping three lines and jumping on the moon, and then turned out of the Big Stone Forest and went to the Small Stone Forest.

Compared with the grandeur of the big stone forest, the small stone forest area is much smarter and more delicate. And the most famous Ashima incarnation stone is hidden in it. The flow of people was terrible, not to mention the whole team, only our 4-person team was squeezed out several times. Finally, they finally gathered in front of Ashima's incarnation stone.

Looking at the incarnation stone of Ashima in front of me, it is so strange and familiar. The strangeness is because I saw it for the first time, and the familiarity is because I have been immersing myself in various ways since I was a child. Quietly outlines the appearance of a Sani woman from the delicate stone statue, carrying a basket on her back, looking into the distance of hope. Sometimes, we are trapped in helplessness, but at least we should not forget to look forward to it. As long as the body and mind are not dead, the unknown future will never be a bad thing.

Xiaobai asked us to line up to get out of the scenic spot and gather at the bus parking lot. After watching Ashima, we hurried out of the gate of the scenic spot with the flow of people, and then queued for half an hour to get on the battery car, and then found it from the bus parking lot The bus of his own team felt like he had completed an impossible task.

It was agreed to meet at 12:30, but there were still one or two families who got on the bus at 1:00 and left the Stone Forest Scenic Area by driving for half an hour. During this period, Xiaobai recommended flower cakes in the car, and then came to a Yi village in Yiliang for lunch. . To be honest, the lunch was very good. There were chicken, duck, fish, and big meat. They all tasted very good. I found out later that the delicious duck is a famous specialty of Yiliang. The elder sister at the same table was traveling alone. She said that she had almost finished the Spring Festival journey, and Kunming was the last stop, and then said that compared to other group meals, the food here is really good.

After lunch, depart from Yiliang at 2:00 and arrive at Jiuxiang at 3:00.

★Cave hidden secrets out of Jiuxiang

Jiuxiang is a Yi and Hui township in Yiliang County. On the way here, Xiaobai said that the name comes from the division of administrative regions. I didn't really know much about Jiuxiang before, but here is a national geological park, a member of the International Cave Association, and a national 4A scenic spot. Moreover, many movies and TV dramas have been filmed here, including "Thousands of Changes" starring Wu Yanzu, as well as "New Journey to the West", "Tathagata Palm", etc., the most famous of which should be Jackie Chan's "Myth". Almost all the waterfall scenes were filmed in Jiuxiang. In addition, Jackie Chan's "Little Soldiers" was also filmed here. It seems that Jiuxiang is very popular with Jackie Chan.

The ticket for Jiuxiang is 90 per person, and there is also a cableway fee of 30. The Yincui Gorge in the scenic spot also has free cruise facilities, which are included in the ticket. Xiaobai took back the tickets and distributed them to everyone, and then said to disperse them. After queuing up for the boat, they will meet in the Lion Hall. Try to queue at the cableway as early as possible at 5 o'clock. It is expected to leave for Kunming at 6 o'clock.

There is a feeling that there are more tourists in Jiuxiang than in Stone Forest! Moreover, most of them are local tourists from Yunnan, and there are also many local ethnic tourists with very special costumes.

After entering Jiuxiang, you will arrive at the first scenic spot, Yincui Gorge, following the plank road straight down. Yincui Gorge is located in the upper reaches of the Maitian River. The length of the gorge is more than 1,000 meters, and the height of the gorge is more than 60 meters. The gorge that can be visited by boat is actually only 600 meters. The cruise business here is free. Many tourists line up here to receive life jackets. In fact, a boat can only accommodate 10 tourists. Fortunately, driven by the electric motor, the 600-meter canyon can be run quickly, so although There are many people, but there is not a long queue. After entering the canyon, it is extremely quiet. Although there are many cruise ships around, they are all advancing suddenly, but my heart is involuntarily quiet. The canyon above the head forms a line of sky, hidden in the lush green forest.

After coming up from Yincui Gorge, you have to walk through Juxian Valley to the Lion Hall through the plank road between the two canyon cliffs that can only accommodate 2-3 people. This section of the natural barrier was originally amazing, but I didn't want to appreciate it, because it couldn't be squeezed! If the previous Stone Forest is already the subway at 8 o'clock in the morning, people here are basically unable to move independently and are carried forward by the waves of people in the front and back. It is also feasible for tourists to carry forward.

After passing the natural dangerous plank road, enter the karst cave scenic spot. In fact, the karst caves are all similar, if there is no colorful lights illuminating the wall, you can’t see the gorgeous feeling at all, and the crowds are too crowded to appreciate too much, just like a drop of water surging in the river of people, and finally arrived at the Lion Hall.

The Lion Hall is a large platform located in the cave. It is said to have an area of ​​15,000 square meters. It is the largest underground cave platform in the world. Many facilities have been built, including entertainment facilities such as security snacks and light movies. The reunion of Kim Hee-sun and Jackie Chan at the Shrine of the First Emperor of Qin was filmed here.

After counting the heads, Xiaobai told everyone that if you don't want to continue climbing, you can go down the mountain first by taking the emergency passage. If you want to continue touring, you should speed up, and it is best to arrive at the cableway at 5 o'clock. In fact, she didn’t tell us, one is that the distance is only one-third of the way, and the scenery behind is really worth seeing in my opinion. Because we lined up the cableway and almost collapsed.

Continue to move forward in the crowd, and I don’t know when I passed the Goddess Palace, and then I didn’t know that I had reached the male and female waterfalls until I walked out of a big cave and entered another cave. This is the only double waterfall landscape in a cave in China. The two waterfalls are about 30 meters high. "Mythology" was also filmed here.

Continue from the male and female waterfalls, pass through the Zhangkou Cave and arrive at Kanda. Kanda is a group of edge stone lakes deposited by the flow of calcium and magnesium bicarbonate in the cave for tens of millions of years. The shape is similar to the Huanglong scenic spot in Sichuan that I am familiar with. However, Kanda is It is the largest among the more than 2,000 side stone lakes that have been opened in the world. When we got to Kanda, I didn't know whether the road was wider or the tourists were diverted to the emergency mountain road. In short, it suddenly became more relaxed, and the previous sense of congestion suddenly disappeared.

Kanda continued to move forward and arrived at Yijia Village. This is a flat area in the cave, and there are many entertainment facilities. In the dense forest next to it, there is a man-made large tree beside a pool, which is full of wishing signs. , several women in Sani costumes received tourists inside. To be honest, if the Sani people lived here in ancient times, they would feel like a paradise. Even if they were too tired to appreciate the beautiful scenery after being pushed by the crowds, I still feel that there is a magical beauty here, and I can’t help but want to be I am a certain Taoist in "The Legend of Shushan Swordsman", so it is not bad to open up this place as a Taoist residence for cultivation. The scenic spots here can really be called the descriptions in the book about the rare cave residences of immortals.

From here, you can choose to take a sliding pole to go out, but the distance is not too far, and after passing through the Yijia Village, you arrive at the Bat Cave. The Wind Blowing Stone Bend scenic spot behind looks very dreamy. Many stalactites here are not so smooth, sharper and shorter, and give people an illusion of being weak and windy. It seems that those curved angles are caused by the underground wind, and here they are illuminated by intensive colored lights. After the green and blue are interlaced, it is like the mother copy of a three-dimensional movie. It is dazzling to watch, and there is a sense of seeing the red and green 3D map.

After passing through the bat cave, we arrived at the ropeway. The cableway is more than 1,000 meters long and crosses two hills. Seeing that the time is already 5:40, I hurried to line up. It seems that the line is not too long, but it is moving very slowly, because this is a simple cable car for two people at a time. The line lasted an hour, and finally some families went down the mountain first, and we could only take a taxi to the city to catch the train and plane, but even if we waited for us, it would take a long time for the bus to return to the train station from Jiuxiang. 3 hours. I took the cable car at 7 o'clock and arrived at the foot of the mountain in 10 minutes. Then I hurried back to the bus and found that the four of us were the slowest group this time, but the other groups of fun-loving young people had just returned.

After boarding the bus, Xiaobai counted the heads and then set off for Kunming. The bus wobbled on the two-lane mountain road, making people sleepy. It can only be blamed for the fact that there are too many people traveling during the Spring Festival. Fortunately, there are no consumption items throughout the journey. In fact, both Shilin and Jiuxiang are very interesting, maybe it will be very interesting to travel at the wrong peak.

There is a free bus to Yiliang in Jiuxiang Scenic Area. Although it feels like driving for an hour on the Kunshi Expressway, due to the crowds of people traveling during the Spring Festival, the expressway is also quite congested. It was already 10 pm when we arrived at Kunming Station, and the subway was out of service. up.

Because the flight was soaring at 6:30 the next morning, Didi took a taxi to Dabanqiao Village near the airport for accommodation. The taxi fare was 68 yuan, which was slightly cheaper than the 25 yuan per person of the airport bus at Kunming Station.

Say goodbye to the familiar Kunming and go to the unknown southwestern Yunnan. There are always more longings about unknown cities and scenery, good night, Kunming.

Tip 1: There is a direct bus from Kunming East Passenger Station to Yiliang, which takes about 40 minutes; there is a free bus from Yiliang to Jiuxiang Scenic Area; you can take the Kunshi Expressway by car, and turn to the second-lane mountain road after arriving at Shilin, which takes about 2 hours. Tickets for Jiuxiang are 90 per person, and the cableway is 30 per person.

Tip 2: The accommodation near Kunming Changshui Airport is mostly concentrated in Dabanqiao Village and Huajing Village. The local hotels are responsible for free flight transfers, but there may be situations where the hotel pictures do not match the reality. In addition, the hotel facilities in Dabanqiao Village It is older than Huajing Village, but there are many restaurants and barbecue stalls that are open all night near Dabanqiao Village, and Huajing Village is relatively devoid of nightlife.

[Tengchong Chapter] Hot Spring Gambling Stone Volcanic City (Atami Hot Spring + Heshun Ancient Town + Big and Small Empty Mountains + Columnar Joints + Heiyu River)

★Talking in Hot Sea Bathing Valley

I thought that Tengchong is located in the southwest of Yunnan, and the temperature should be higher than that of Kunming; and the status of Dehong’s Dai state is almost equal to Xishuangbanna in my heart. After a small Tengchong airport, we found out that we were wrong.

Because during the Spring Festival, the hotel owner in Dabanqiao Village reminded us that we had to go to the airport at 4 o'clock. At first, we were still thinking about the need for domestic flights so nervous? As a result, when we arrived at the airport and found that even the entrance was blocked, we deeply felt: it is necessary!

Tengchong Airport is very small. After our flight landed, there were only two planes staying there lonely on the tarmac of the entire airport. Compared with Kunming, the cleanliness and coldness in the air have been upgraded to another level. The morning glow is orange red at this time, reflecting the loneliness and beauty of the whole world.

Tip: The flight time from Kunming to Tengchong is 50 minutes. The fare of Xiangpeng flight 8L9857 (0630-0720) we took is all inclusive of CNY350.

There is a minibus from the airport to the urban area, the fare is 10 yuan per person, but we were too lazy to find the hotel we booked, so we called a taxi at the airport, and it was 50 yuan to the hotel.

On the way, the master learned that we were going to stay in Tengchong for two days and asked us if we wanted to charter a car, 200 a day, and if we chartered a car, the 50 from the airport to the hotel was also included in the chartered car fee, and then the master continued to tell us that the scenic spots in Tengchong are far from The urban area is relatively far away, especially in the volcanic scenic area. There is no shuttle bus from the large and small empty mountains to the Heiyu River. You can only take a taxi or a chartered car. If you take a taxi, it costs about 100 yuan per side. After careful calculation, it is only 400 yuan for 4 people for two days. It was a good deal, so I agreed with the master to charter a car, and then the master suggested that we go to Atami this morning, Heshun Ancient Town in the afternoon, and go to the volcano scenic spot in another direction tomorrow.

It takes only 20 minutes to drive from the airport to the city. After arriving in the city and finding a hotel to store our luggage at the front desk, we put on our swimsuits and trunks and prepared to head to Atami. The master said that there are many people in the scenic spot. It is recommended to buy tickets in advance at the ticket office in the urban area. The two-day package is 318 yuan in total, including Atami ticket 60, Yugu Hot Spring 288 and volcano scenic spot (large and small empty mountains + columnar joints + Heiyu River) Tickets 60. Because the master told us that the hot springs in Yugu have a buffet, so we started to go to Atami Scenic Area with an empty stomach.

Arrived at Atami at 9 o'clock, because it was already the sixth day of the holiday, and except for the local tourists, the foreign troops had basically evacuated, so it was actually not as congested as imagined. In the slightly cool air of Tengchong, the shops at the entrance of the scenic area just started to open for business. The rice noodle stalls were filled with steam, and the swimsuit stalls also had a lot of rough jade and volcanic stone products with some furs worn off. The feeling from Kunming is completely different.

Talking about buying jade in the car before, I said that I would definitely go to Ruili to buy it, which is next door to Myanmar; the chartered car master smiled and said that Tengchong is actually the origin of gambling stones, and the jade here is more authentic than Dehong’s. Cheaper, after all, the jade business over there has been flooded to a mixed bag.

In fact, there is a short-cut road to Yugu, which can be reached in just over 10 minutes on foot, but we didn’t know it. We thought Yugu was in the Atami Scenic Area, so we checked the tickets first and entered the scenic spot, and then we were full of thoughts about hot springs. And the buffet food, passing by in a hurry, I want to take a bath first and then return slowly to see the scenery. However, in the hot sea area is the beauty pool open-air hot spring, and Yugu is at the end of the hot sea area, you need to go out of the scenic area, although I asked the staff later that the ticket can enter the scenic area again, but you can't enter through the back door, you can only enter the scenic area. Walk to the entrance and take the loop again, and there is no motivation after thinking about it.

Atami Scenic Area is mainly a variety of geothermal hot spring attractions, from Hamazui to Pearl Spring to Guming Spring to Sister Spring, Pregnancy Spring, and finally Atami Hot Pot. These springs along the way are steaming, with a strong smell of sulfur, and the temperature is as high as 90 degrees, but the visibility is average. What's more, when passing by the Guming Spring, the opposite is the open-air hot spring of the Beauty Pool. During the Spring Festival When you are exhausted, nothing is more attractive than hot springs and buffet food.

Stop by the hot sea hot pot for a while, here is the largest hot spring water, with a diameter of more than 3 meters and a temperature above 97 degrees. It is shaped like a big pot, but the hot spring in the pot is blue in color. Very beautiful. There is a big steamer for steaming eggs and buns next to the big rolling pot. Speaking of which, when we came in, there were locals selling strings of eggs, ranging from 5-10 yuan. Most of the tourists bought them as preparations. Boil hot spring eggs while soaking in hot springs. These eggs strung together by grass are one of the Eighteen Monsters in Yunnan.

The hot spring eye next to the big rolling pot can soak your feet, and the fee is 60. We are naturally unwilling to go to the consumption with the tickets of Yugu. We can’t wait to leave the scenic spot and enter the hot spring of Yugu Hotel, but the first thing let us down. The only thing is that the waiter told us that there are too many tourists during the Spring Festival, and the prices have risen again, so there is no self-service food, but there are free hot tea everywhere, and we finally found the only place that provides free watermelon.

The bathing area in Yugu is very large, and there are many hot spring pools. These include medicine pools, characteristic pools, and sulfur original soup pools. Each community has several or even a dozen hot spring pools, as well as sweat steaming rooms and pine forest oxygen bar rooms.

To be honest, in the warm and cold season of early spring, a natural hot spring pool is enough for life. In this primitive landscape, it is extremely carefree.

The hot springs are mixed with men and women. You can bring your mobile phone and camera into the venue. There are free waterproof bags in the changing room. After changing clothes, the first hot springs are 7 medicine pools. The spring water is in the color of traditional Chinese medicine. It is said that different medicinal materials are added to each hot spring pool. Get rid of fatigue. After soaking in the medicine pool for about half an hour, the whole person is crisp, but also sweating profusely.

Below the medicine pool is the special pool. The five special pools have different colors, including coffee pools, tea pools, wine pools, and aloe vera pools. There was a layer of cut aloe floating in the aloe pool, and we all jumped into the wine pool, being slightly drunk by the slight aroma of wine. There were not many people at this time, but starting around 11 o'clock, the number of tourists gradually increased, and we could no longer monopolize the hot spring pool.

Next to the original soup pool above the special pool, there is a small restaurant with free tea and watermelon. If you want buns or steamed dumplings, you need to write down your hand number and pay when you leave the venue, but the taste is not very good. Some of these sky-blue original soup pools next to the restaurant also have a massage function, and I really don’t want to leave after soaking in them.

An incident happened while taking a bath in the original soup pool. Le received a call from Ruili, saying that something happened to Ruili's trip to Muse in Myanmar that we had booked.

The city of Muse in Myanmar is basically close to the Jiegao Port in Ruili. As a small town in Shan State in northern Myanmar, it has been affected by the war in northern Myanmar all year round. Fortunately, Shan State surrendered earlier than other states. Therefore, in the second half of 2017, tourism in Muse City in northern Myanmar was restarted.

Due to the war in northern Myanmar, compared with other Southeast Asian countries, Myanmar has a lot more rules for inbound tourism. For example, the legendary car entry and exit, and plane entry and exit must be the original port of entry and exit, and a work certificate must be provided for visa application (most other countries in Southeast Asia do not need it). Although I recently heard that the rules for entering and exiting through the original route are not so strict, if you want to enter the peaceful area of ​​lower Myanmar through the war-torn zone when entering from northern Myanmar, you must first enter the country with a group, and you can travel freely after arriving in Nay Pyi Taw. The second is that it must be approved by the relevant documents of the Myanmar government military. And just a few days before our trip, it seemed that northern Myanmar was not peaceful again. Originally, I had an idea that if I didn’t go southwestern Yunnan, I would go directly to Ruili and enter northern Myanmar with a group, and then go to Bagan, and then return by plane from Nay Pyi Taw, but the group discussed for too long, and finally had no time to apply for a visa. .

However, the current problem is not brought by the Myanmar side, but that we have to renew the new border travel pass, and the old pass is gone in the whole of Ruili, and the new pass will arrive on the 26th at the earliest, so we have to go Northern Myanmar will arrive at the 27th at the earliest. The problem is that Adu will return to Shanghai on the 27th, and we must return to Sichuan. Le said that he asked several other travel agencies. In fact, there are only three travel agencies in Ruili that are doing Muse border tours. It has already been fixed, and I don't want to make too many changes, so I told the store to wait and see, but I felt very upset, but this cannot be changed by manpower.

While soaking in the hot springs in the original soup pool and discussing the matter of going to Mujie later, it was 1 pm before we knew it, and then the master was urging us to go out, otherwise there would be nothing to do in Heshun.

To be honest, when I climbed out of the hot spring, I really struggled to get up, it was so comfortable, and I really wanted to keep soaking if I could.

Walking down the road, we soon arrived at the entrance of the scenic spot, took a photo with Xu Xiake's stele, bought some strawberries, and got on the bus. The master said that the strawberry next to him was 20 yuan per catty. We bargained with an old lady, and the result was that 10 yuan a bowl of strawberries was finally sold for 10 yuan and 3 bowls.

★Heshun, spring poems of wind and flowers

It is said on the Internet that Heshun itself is free of charge. If you want to go to several paid humanistic classics in the ancient town, you need to buy a 80 pass; but when we came to Heshun during the Spring Festival in 2018, we found that as long as we enter the ancient town, we need to buy 64 tickets. Student tickets 40 per person.

I didn't know much about Heshun before I went there. The master said that he would drive us to the back village of the ancient town, and then he could tell the person who paid the fee that we stayed in the hotel booked in the ancient town, so we didn't need to buy a ticket. But when we arrived in Houcun, facing the straightforward smiling face of the fee-paying uncle, none of us could tell that we were tourists living in the ancient town. In the end, we just asked how much the student ticket was? As a result, the uncles directly tore up four 40 student tickets and gave them to us, pretending to be tender, and their conscience hurt a little.

It takes only about 20 minutes to drive to Heshun from the urban area. It is the hottest time in Tengchong, but the bright sunshine does not bring too much heat. Under the blue sky and white clouds, the ancient town of Heshun in the embrace of wind and flowers makes people I vaguely have the illusion of returning to the ancient city of Lijiang.

Walking down the stone road in the back village, there are almost no tourists. I was still thinking that the difficulty and smoothness are like this? Until the lonely stone road came to an end, a small market street suddenly appeared, and the small vendors of life were attracting customers in the sunshine. There is a blue-yellow flaky pastry called pine flower cake, which has a faint scent of turpentine and feels like it is made of pine tree pollen. Seeing that I was curious to take pictures, the old man who sold pine flower cakes sorted it out kindly and gave it to me.

Then, I saw the screen wall of a Bai family in Dali, covered with all kinds of interesting store names. I can imagine that the small bosses who open the store are the kind of wandering youths who love literature, art and freedom. This feels more like Lijiang. Shuhe Ancient Town.

I can't move my feet in front of a firecracker flower. The white walls and green eaves are covered with clumps of firecracker flowers, swaying gently in the gentle breeze, cutting the sunlight and casting cool shade all over the place.

After all, I didn’t have a meal when I arrived in Tengchong, so I went into a small courtyard, intending to see what strange food Tengchong had never seen before. I only knew earthen pots before I came here, so I ordered one first, and then I was confused by the weird names on the menu. After dinner, there was only one table of us in the store, and the boss explained to us one by one: Dajiujia is fried shredded bait with meat and vegetables; Dessert……

This is my favorite moment when traveling, just like when I was in the ancient city of Pingyao during the Spring Festival last year. There is such a dessert called brains...

The boss is very careful when making earthen pots, carefully stacking the dishes layer by layer. Although Yunnan cuisine is not very famous, I like the salty and fresh taste very much. A very satisfying meal costs only 36 yuan per person in the end.

After lunch, I walked out of the small courtyard, and through the long and smooth old street, I saw a golden plain in the distance, which was rapeseed flowers all over the world. March and April are my favorite seasons. In the southwestern region, I always encounter a sea of ​​yellow flowers inadvertently. They are so common and beautiful.

Walking down the long street, it turns out that the main entrance of Heshun is next to the sea of ​​flowers. At this time, there are many tourists and the spring is full of colors. Small shops playing African drums and hawkers selling pine flower cakes and barbecue sticks coexist harmoniously. I like this The feeling of not being lonely or noisy.

The closing time of the paid attractions in the ancient town is basically around 5:30, and our time is not too early, but we still can't wait to plunge into the sea of ​​flowers in the sun. If the hot spring in the morning is irresistible to tired travelers, the sea of ​​flowers in spring in the ancient town at this time is even more irresistible.

There are two paid scenic spots at the entrance of the scenic spot, namely Heshun Library and Wenchang Palace. There are all kinds of new and old books and newspapers displayed in the Heshun Library, but when we entered, the staff had already started to clean up and close the library, and the Wenchang Palace next to it also started to clean up the display. I am extremely satisfied with the firecracker flowers all over the wall and the boundless sea of ​​cauliflower.

I like such an ancient border town, where ancient poems are chanted in the wind, and there are ignorant flowers watching around, it is so beautiful.

Walking aimlessly along the outer edge of the ancient town, walked through the bar street, tattooed an easy-to-clean tattoo, and tasted a few mouthfuls of food that I had never seen before, and the whole person melted into the atmosphere of the ancient town .

There is a blood-red berry called rouge fruit. The young girl said that it is a kind of wild fruit on the mountain. It can be eaten directly after picking and mashing. It costs 5 yuan a bowl. Buy a bowl, sour and sweet, the unique taste makes people want to stop, but after eating it, the lips are as red as rouge.

There is also a small fruit, which the lady who sells it says is called rattan fruit, but it is about the size of a thumbnail, but it costs 1 yuan a piece. We think it is expensive, but the eldest sister said: It is delicious. Try to buy a few peels that look like snake scales. The pulp inside is really crispy, sweet and sour, very delicious, and after eating the pulp, you can spit out a fruit stone like a bodhi seed.

Around 6 o'clock, the chartered car master asked his sister to pick us up because of something. I don't feel like I'm enjoying myself. If I come back next time, I can book a place to stay in the ancient town for two days. It would be a good feeling.

Back to the urban area to rest for a while, after dark we continue to search for the unknown about us in Tengchong.

In a barbecue night market, I found local specialties such as earthen pots, pineapple rice, and some sold. I didn’t know what it was at first. Later, the boss told us that it was a kind of rice noodle in Dai language. Dehong More over there.

At this time, there has been an intersection with Myanmar. Several trolleys at the entrance of the night market sell Burmese dumpling cakes. The thin and dark brothers are skillfully making dumpling cakes in two groups, but their Chinese is not as good as their craftsmanship. She is as skilled as she is, with the kind of khaki sunscreen powder used by all Burmese people on her face, smiling shyly at us, there are many flavors of dumpling cakes, in fact, it is similar to Indian flying cakes, 10 yuan a piece, the taste very good.

When leaving the barbecue restaurant after supper, the boss was roasting snow-white bait cakes on the brazier, and a puff of white smoke rose from the burnt place, filled with the aroma of cooked rice. Adu asked the boss if he could give one to try, and the boss gave us one without saying a word.

The night in Tengchong is cool, simple and pure, just like the pure wind and fragrance of flowers here, which makes people feel stress-free.

★Small and small empty mountains, tops of volcanoes

The agreed 9 o'clock departure, 8:30 in the cool and bright sunshine of Tengchong, ate bait silk for breakfast, then got in the car and set off for the volcano scenic spot. Because yesterday's chartered car master concentrated on renting out taxis, so today his sister drove us to the scenic spot.

As a rare volcanic scenic spot in China, the volcanic scenic spot in Tengchong covers about 60 square kilometers. It is a national-level scenic spot of Tengchong Geothermal Volcano and a national volcanic geothermal park. Joints and Heiyu River Scenic Spots. The package ticket for the three scenic spots is not expensive, 54 yuan. There is a battery fare of 10 yuan in the big and small empty mountain scenic spots. However, the scenic spot itself is not too big. It takes 20 minutes to walk to the foot of the mountain. You can take a hot air balloon and a triangular hang glider, and the price is more than 200 yuan.

Tip: The main attractions in the volcano scenic spot are the Big and Small Kongshan Mountains. The columnar joints and Heiyu River included in the package are on the same tour line, but it is half an hour's drive from the Big and Small Kongshan Mountains, and there is no public transportation to the Heiyu River Scenic Area. You must take a taxi or charter a car. The price It is around 50 to 100, so if you want to finish the three scenic spots in the volcano scenic spot, it is necessary to charter a car in advance.

Tengchong is located at the southern foot of Gaoligong Mountain. There are 97 Cenozoic volcanoes in the territory. The youngest volcano is less than 4,000 years old. Xu Xiake of the Ming Dynasty visited Tengchong in 1639 and made related records in "Xu Xiake's Travel Notes".

Before departure, I went to the station to buy a bus ticket to Ruili at 8:40 the next morning, 90 per person. About half an hour after starting from the urban area, we arrived at the scenic spot. To enter the scenic spot, you need to pass through a shopping corridor, where many local women enthusiastically greet tourists to buy volcanic stone accessories, coarse grain cakes, hand-woven mosquito repellent items, etc. The price is not expensive, and a volcanic stone with mosquito repellent is only 5 yuan. But after going in, I found out that scattered small volcanic rocks can be picked up in the big and small empty mountains. Many children came out with a pile of volcanic rocks.

When you walk to the entrance of the scenic spot, you can see the colorful hot air balloons flying wantonly in front of the Dakong Mountain, hanging in the air, checking the ticket to enter the scenic spot, and there is a Tengchong Volcanic Geological Museum with three courtyards on the right, displaying various remnants of volcanic eruptions. It is a good place to get to know the volcano, and the postcards of drinks and snacks sold inside are basically cheap.

The sun is shining brightly, and the brilliant colors of the hot air balloons in front of Dakong Mountain appear brighter and brighter in the sun.

Dakong Mountain is a flat-topped conical volcano with an altitude of 2080 meters. The diameter of the bottom of the mountain is about 650 to 720 meters. The diameter of the crater is about 200 meters. The relative height is 100 meters. The crater pit is 50 meters deep. Formed by Pleistocene eruptions. Although it doesn't look very high, the stone steps up to the top of the mountain are very steep, and it is even exhausting to climb all the way to the top of the mountain.

The volcanic crater of Dakong Mountain is not fenced, you can climb down to explore, but there are no roads repaired here, all are wilderness trails trampled by tourists, if you are a lady, it is recommended not to climb down easily, it will be brilliant The sun was shining on the mountain path, and the dust was flying dark red. Secondly, many places were easy to roll off. Even if there were no serious injuries, it was certain that the skin would be broken.

But for me, how can I come here but not sit in the heart of Dakong Mountain? It's quite difficult to go down to the crater of Dakong Mountain. In fact, there are overgrown grass here. Except for a few thorn trees, there is not much scenery. It is not even as good as the scenery from the top of the mountain. However, sitting in the very center of this volcanic crater, imagining the scene of a school of red magma gushing here, it seems that I might get some strange power of nature after meditating here for a long time.

Descend from Dakong Mountain, then head to Xiaokong Mountain on the left. Compared with the main road in front of Dakong Mountain, there are obviously fewer tourists here. It took about 10 minutes to walk to the foot of Xiaokong Mountain.

Xiaokong Mountain is also a flat-topped conical volcano with an altitude of 1957 meters, a bottom diameter of about 350 meters, a crater diameter of 250 meters, and a crater depth of 60 meters. It was formed in a similar age to Dakong Mountain.

Because the climbing of Dakong Mountain is too tiring, it is approaching noon and the temperature is also rising, so at first we did not plan to continue climbing to the top of Xiaokong Mountain, but the staff next to us told us that it only takes 5 minutes to reach the top of the mountain. , Lehe and Momo were still unwilling to move, so Adu and I decided to continue going. As a result, we reached the top of the mountain in less than 5 minutes, and the journey was very gentle.

Moreover, it is probably because people’s thinking is similar to ours, and they ignore the small ones after climbing the big ones, so compared with the crowds on Dakong Mountain, there are almost no tourists on the top of Xiaokong Mountain. The crater of Xiaokong Mountain is surrounded by a fence and cannot go down, which prevents people from trampling on it, so the crater is much more elegant than Dakong Mountain. The hiking plank road along the crater is also much better than the dirt road in Dakong Mountain. It is surrounded by pine forests. After being exposed to the sun at noon, the smell of rosin all over the world makes people feel very relaxed in a trance. When Mount Ligong blows, the entire pine forest will make a burst of sound, overwhelming momentum, but it does not make people feel panic and uneasy, but more to lament the vastness of the world and the beauty of nature.

To be honest, Dakong Mountain is like a noisy secular world, big and messy; Xiaokong Mountain is like an ethereal place outside the world, everything is quiet and beautiful. So I feel sorry for those who sweated out in Dakong Mountain and then resolutely gave up Xiaokong Mountain.

I have always felt that this kind of scenic spot with geological significance greater than the scenery is actually very difficult to please tourists. When going down the Dakong Mountain, the most jokes I heard were: I bought tickets to see a broken mountain, and I really pitted myself for a big hole. This can’t be blamed on tourists. As a former geography teacher, I know that the concept of geography to Chinese people is just a bean sprouts class in middle school. Only those who take the test can use it, and those who can really feel the travel from the perspective of geography and aesthetics are really the heterogeneous among the heterogeneous. If you can't see the geographically beautiful side of the empty mountain, it's really just a big pit, not as beautiful as some wild mountains that don't charge tickets.

Later, when I took the train back to Chengdu from Kunming, because I took the train from the terminal station to Xi’an, many people on the train were going to Xi’an. Then I heard two young boys in their 20s chatting. One said that he often Taking the train out, the other suddenly asked, it is said that this train is going to Xi'an, is Xi'an from Sichuan? The other said he didn't know, it should be. The three provinces connected in the west are not far away, yet such a young child thinks that Xi'an is a city in Sichuan... As a former geography teacher, I feel inexplicably uncomfortable.

As soon as we got off the Xiaokong Mountain, Le said that the master of the chartered car kept urging us, saying that we had been playing in the Xiaokong Mountain for so long. Looking at the watch, it was already 1 pm. Then, Le was inexplicably a little annoyed, we had chartered a car for a whole day, why did we rush us all the way? What's the difference with newspapers? However, the four of us are not good at arguing, so we were able to buy student tickets in Heshun Ancient Town with a student spirit, and we couldn’t show the gangster spirit to fight with others, so we didn’t have time to choose some special products in the shopping street, so we hurried back to the entrance of the scenic spot Get on the bus at the station and start towards Heiyu River and Columnar Joint.

★Heiyu River at the foot of Gaoligong Mountain

The name of Gaoligong Mountain always gives me a sense of exotic mystery, and I always thought that I would go to Nujiang Prefecture to experience the primitive civilization that is far from the culture of the Central Plains. If this trip can be longer, I originally intended to go to Nujiang , but that piece of land is relatively undeveloped, I always feel that I should make a special trip in the future.

In fact, Tengchong has a close relationship with Gaoligong Mountain. Coming out of the large and small empty mountains and walking along the gentle mountain road, the sun shines on the world embraced by Gaoligong Mountain, which is very comfortable. Tengchong always gives me a clean, cool, but golden feeling.

About 20 minutes later, the car stopped on the side of the road. There were more than a dozen small shops crowded together. The words "Columnar Joints Viewing Platform" were engraved on an inconspicuous and dilapidated rock, and then drove on. The eldest sister told us that this is the best spot to watch the columnar joints. After getting off the car, I found that from here, I can see a mountain not far from here. There are many vertical textures on the mountain, which are columnar joints.

Columnar joint structure is a kind of primary tensional fracture structure in regular or irregular columnar shape commonly found in volcanic lavas, usually in the form of square, pentagonal, and hexagonal prisms. Le was not interested in geography, so he complained that it was actually similar to the scenery at his house, and he ran so far just to see it. In fact, although the mountain body in western Sichuan also has that kind of curved texture, it is because of the mountain folds formed by the earthquake of the orogenic movement, and the columnar joints formed by the volcano are completely two concepts.

From here, you can go directly down the mountain to the bottom of the columnar joints, but the eldest sister obviously didn't want us to spend more time here, so after a few glances, she urged us to get in the car and continue to the Heiyu River scenic spot.

Heiyu River is an underground underground river. It is a river formed by lava flow after the Tengchong volcanic movement. The magma blocked the underground river and made the underground water flow out of the surface. It is named after a small black fish often flows out of the outlet in summer and autumn , here is the largest low-temperature giant spring in Tengchong, and the water quality can be drunk directly.

However, although this scenic spot is a regular scenic spot included in the volcano package, it always gives people an extremely fake feeling because of the backward construction. The entrance of the scenic spot is next to the second-lane mountain road, and only a few cars can be parked. There is no gate of the scenic spot, only a dilapidated security booth, and a staff member in uniform sits inside to check the ticket. The entrance of the scenic spot is lined with small restaurants, and there are large pots at the entrance, which are full of the special black fish here. If you eat, the black fish is 25 yuan a catty, and the grilled black fish on the stall sells for 20 yuan for a large one, and 20 yuan for a small one. 5 yuan a piece. Now that you are here, as a person who regards eating as equally important as traveling, you must try the taste of this black fish that can only be found here-in fact, it is the taste of grilled fish, similar to the texture of mullet.

Going along the path, the scenery is actually average, but there are many snacks along the way, and they are not expensive. There is a kind of egg fruit soaked in water. The aunt said 10 yuan for 6 pieces. I counter-offered and said 10 yuan for 7 pieces. The auntie praised me for bargaining while filling me with fruit. The peel is very bitter, and the flesh is sour and slightly astringent. The 7 fruits were not eaten in the end. There is also a small pot of salt-roasted ginkgo, 10 yuan a piece, very fragrant, but the buds in the heart of the fruit have not been removed, so you can only pick them while eating, otherwise it will be super bitter.

Passing by a few clear water pools, it looks like a natural rural river view, but in fact it is the river gushing out of the ground river. The scenery is slightly better, but it still feels far away from a successful scenic spot.

At the source of the Heiyu River, I bought an old lady’s freshly made snacks. She sold them very cheaply. The jujube mixed with chili and dried radish were all priced at 1 yuan per tablespoon. I was thinking about her bunch of snacks If it is sold out, it is only the price of two or three big black fish in the restaurant. But the old lady didn't care too much, and when no one was patronizing, she embroidered flowers in the sun by herself. We asked what other scenic spots were behind here, and she happily told us that there was still about half an hour to go, and there were Huangshuitan, Chain Bridge, etc. behind, which was very interesting.

Can't bear to live up to the goodwill of the old man, we plan to finish the rest of the journey to see the Yellow Water Pond and the Chain Bridge that the old man said. In fact, there are indeed those scenic spots mentioned by the old man, but the whole Heiyuhe scenic spot is not at all like a regular scenic spot included in the volcano package, but rather like a hike in a wild mountain.

Finally, I walked across the chain bridge and came to the bottom of the columnar joints. Next to it was a water station and the settlements of several native families. Standing under the columnar joints, although the dense texture is missing, it is even more shocking, but the others who are not interested in geography still find it not very interesting.

When I came here, I happened to meet a tourist who was going down the mountain from the columnar joint viewing platform. After asking, I found out that there was a shortcut, so we climbed up the mountain directly from the viewing platform on the return trip, and then called the eldest sister who chartered a car and asked her to drive back to the columnar joints. Pick us up at the Joint Viewing Deck.

It took only one and a half hours to visit the entire Heiyu River scenic spot and the columnar joints. It was exactly 3 pm, and it was still early, but Le said that the elder sister who chartered a car was quite impatient, so we simply went back to the city to rest, and then rushed around 7 pm Go to watch the performance of "Fantasy Tengchong". As a music teacher, Le does not want to miss any performance at every stop. The elder sister in the chartered car took us back to the city, and helped us get the performance tickets for "Fantasy Tengchong". We bought the original price of 168 for 128 per person.

★Fantasy Tengchong

I went back to the urban area, washed and rested, because the Spring Festival holiday was over, and all businesses were slowly recovering. I went to the street for a haircut, went to a halal restaurant for dinner, and ordered a big pot of mint soup. The unique aroma of mint dishes made in Yunnan makes the whole person very relaxed. While getting a haircut, I ran into the two Burmese boys who were selling Burmese cakes at the barbecue night market last night. Although they didn't understand Chinese very well, they still greeted us with a smile.

Dream Tengchong Grand Theater is located in Tengchong's Xincheng Cultural and Creative District, surrounded by many places worth seeing, such as the Jade Museum and the Shadow Puppet Theater. There was one show at 7 o'clock and one at 8 o'clock for more than an hour's performance. Our 8 o'clock show was not allowed to enter the theater until the 7 o'clock show was over.

The stage of "Fantasy Tengchong" is small, and photography and video recording are not allowed after the show starts. The program is divided into 5 chapters. The first chapter is composed of fire-like men’s drums and water-like women’s dances. It tells the ancient landforms of Tengchong’s volcanic hot springs; Traveling through the Western Regions and Southeast Asia, fighting against nature, and finally marrying a wife in Southeast Asia and returning home full of rewards; the third chapter is about the various battles of the expeditionary force at the foot of Gaoligong Mountain with Tengchong as the main battlefield; , the gentle Xiaohe Huahai, the water town woman holding an umbrella, and all kinds of idiots who gamble on stones; the fifth chapter is the end of the show.

The program arrangement is quite good, especially the third chapter, which made my eyes wet when I watched it without warning. After returning to Chengdu, I went to the theater to watch "Operation Red Sea". As said in "Three-Body Problem", people always Think that peace and security are inevitable, but what if it is just a rare coincidence? War can create heroes, but I still hope that there will be fewer heroes who risk their lives in this world, and more families who live and work in peace and contentment.

However, "Fantasy Tengchong" lacks some of the national elements that I like, so in the performances I have seen such as "Jin Banquet" in Nanning and "Tibetan Fan" in Jiuzhaigou, it still ranks low.

After watching the performance, take a taxi back to the city, and then walk slowly back to the hotel along the dimly lit road in Tengchong. The air in Tengchong at night is very cool. The trip to Dehong starts today.

【Ruili+Muse】There is a beautiful place (two countries in one village + Muse from Myanmar + a street between China and Myanmar)

★Preparation for departure from Myanmar

The bus departed from Tengchong at 8:40 in the morning. On the way from the hotel to the station by taxi, the eldest sister who drove the taxi was very enthusiastic. We chatted a lot during the short journey, just like what I heard when I was in Lijiang. It is a hometown treasure. She said that the weather in Tengchong is good and the business is easy to do. Gambling with stones is easier to get rich overnight, so there are actually quite a lot of rich people here, and the locals don’t want to stay in other places. Her son will Back to Tengchong. Indeed, here is a pleasant climate and bright sunshine, as well as hot springs that can be soaked everywhere. It is so leisurely and comfortable, coupled with the hometown complex, it has naturally raised batches of hometown treasures. The eldest sister also said that the climate in Tengchong is actually a triple jump. Go to the high mountains in Rehai. After a few minutes of driving, there may be heavy snowfall there. When you return to Tengchong City, it will be back to spring, and then continue south for half an hour to Hehua. There It is Dai Township, and immediately entered the tropics.

I ate bait at the station for breakfast. The train departed on time at 8:40 and arrived at Ruili at 12:00 noon. The first half of the journey has been on the pleasant Spring Mountain Road in Tengchong, until it passes Longling, enters the expressway, enters the Dehong Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture, and enters the border area. The security checks at the rest stop are becoming more and more frequent and strict. Dai language also began to appear.

Pass through Mangshi and Wanding ports along the way. I have a deep impression of Wanding so far, because it was when I was still in kindergarten, and my father went abroad for the first time in Wanding. I took the Burmese gifts brought back from that era like tributes from foreign countries. Show it to my kindergarten friends, it's really fun to think about it now.

After arriving at Ruili Station, I realized that Ruili was not as hot as I thought. The days in Banna a few years ago made me afraid of the heat in Dai Township, but it seems that the climate of Ruili is indeed much more pleasant than that of Banna.

The first thing you need to do when you arrive in Ruili is to apply for a border pass! For two days this matter has been tormenting us like a stick in our throats. The travel agency has been communicating with He Le all the time, and the eldest sister who is in charge of our list He Le is a fellow villager, but she has been in Ruili for 2 or 30 years. She completely reversed the poem "The local accent has not changed and the hair on the temples has declined", Qingsi still speaks fluent Yunnan dialect, but she still warmly calls us fellows and is very frank all the way.

She said that we can’t wait for the new certificates, and the old certificates that were impossible to obtain were transferred from Tengchong yesterday. Because Ruili is a port, the supply of certificates is in short supply; Tengchong can also apply for the Myanmar delegation, but the certificates are not available. tight. But even so, the transfer certificates are only a few hundred copies, and it is said that if we arrive in the morning, we can still grab a place. Le said that we won’t arrive until after noon, and asked if we could add some money to keep 4 copies for us. The eldest sister said that she didn’t want us to add money, but she could try to say hello and ask them to keep 4 copies, but it depends on luck whether you can keep them . When she took us to the entry-exit certificate processing office, there were people who kept sending messages and the elder sister replied one by one saying that they had no certificates... I didn’t expect such a simple one-day trip to northern Myanmar to be more convenient than any current exit. Dangerous, dumbfounding...

After filling out the form at the certificate office and taking photos, I will go to the Municipal Public Security Bureau at 2:30 p.m. to go through the follow-up procedures. The hanging heart finally settled down. The eldest sister said that today only 4 of us came to take pictures and fill out the form, because I don't have a certificate anymore, and there was a huge crowd of people here a few days ago. The eldest sister asked us what we were doing in the afternoon. We said we had no plans for the time being, and she asked if we wanted to join a group. Finally, we agreed on 100 yuan per person, and she asked someone to take us to Yizhai, the two countries and the China-Myanmar street.

The hotel in Ruili is located next to the fruit wholesale market. I originally wanted to have lunch before setting off, but I found that none of the restaurants around the residence were open. Later, I heard that because Myanmar’s labor is very cheap, it usually costs 5-600 RMB a month. , so there are a lot of Burmese migrant workers here. Although the Spring Festival is over, because it is not the peak tourist season, the Burmese workers have not come here yet, so many shops have not yet opened.

At 2 o'clock, an uncle came to the hotel to pick us up on time. He looked like the boss of a travel agency. I guess it was because the workers didn't come back to fill up the number of people on their own? The uncle first drove us to the Municipal Public Security Bureau to go through the immigration process. On the way, we passed a few streets. The streets were full of black foreigners. The uncle said that most of the people living here were Burmese and Pakistanis, and they also sold curry meals.

The entry-exit center of Ruili City Public Security Bureau is still a bit crowded at this time. All we need to do is a simple review and take pictures. However, a group next to them heard that they chatted with the National Design Institute, and an older sister was not passed because she is a senior engineer. The audit cannot leave the country.

Tip: The requirements for going out of Myanmar are relatively strict even for one-day trips. Civil servants and special professionals may not pass the review and be prohibited from leaving the country. It is best to consult the travel agency in advance for inquiries.

The four of us successfully completed the exit procedures, and we only waited to leave Myanmar tomorrow, and then the uncle drove us to the Yizhai and Two Scenic Spots.

★One village spans two countries

At about three o'clock, the uncle's car arrived at Yizhai and the two scenic spots. It was the hottest time in Ruili. Although the air was still not filled with dullness, the whole world was so golden that people couldn't open their eyes.

This place has reached the China-Myanmar border. This stockade used to belong to our country, but later, with the establishment of the national boundary, half of it was included in Myanmar. The half in China is called Yinjing Village, and the half in Myanmar is called Mangxiu Village.

In fact, the tickets for the two countries only need 30 yuan per person. When we arrived at the gate of the scenic spot, the uncle handed us over to a female tour guide of the Dai nationality, and then waited for us at the gate. In fact, the scenic spots of Yizhai and the two countries are quite large, and there are many buildings with Dai characteristics and Burmese characteristics. There is also a half-hour folk song and dance performance starting at 4 o'clock, almost all of which are concentrated on the left side after entering the gate of the scenic spot, but the tour guide takes We walked directly to the right side of the scenic spot, vaguely aware of a little routine.

The tour guide talked about the customs of the Dai people and the history of the two countries while walking, and told us that there were 7,777 pieces of jade inlaid on the China-Myanmar Friendship Bridge on the left, but later they were pried away by tourists privately, and finally monitoring was installed. After that, the theft was not continued.

When entering the scenic area, there is a pitaya orchard first, with long branches standing upright in the sun. This is a tropical fruit tree that is only found in the south. Many people know that dragon fruit is delicious but they don’t know what its tree looks like. I have been to Yunnan and Guangxi too many times, so I am familiar with it. It is estimated that tourists in the north will find it quite novel.

Then there is a swing. The tour guide said that this is "two countries in one swing". The dry river next to the row of inconspicuous bushes next to the swing is the national border, and the opposite is Myanmar. Sitting on the swing Swing up and fly through the bushes with your ass in Burma. There are still a lot of tourists in Yinjing Village even after the Spring Festival holiday is over, everyone is waiting in line to play on the swings, while Mangxiu Village on the opposite side is much deserted, only a few dark Burmese men are repairing Looking at the house, occasionally raised his head curiously and looked at the frolicking crowd on the opposite side. Thinking that we will go to Myanmar tomorrow, so I don't bother to line up to play on the swing.

Continue to the right and arrive at a well. The tour guide said that it is a "well of two countries in one village". There is a stone carving on the top of the well, and the words "well of two countries in one village" are written in Chinese and Dai Burmese.

Not long after I went further, I saw the 1960 China-Myanmar Boundary Pillar, and at a nearby intersection there was a simple long pole blocking the way. There was a yellow line on the ground, with China written on one side and Myanmar written on the other. The tour guide said that during the Spring Festival, it takes a long time to line up to take pictures with the boundary marker. Today, there are actually fewer tourists, and no one is queuing. Then next to it is a simple national gate. The tour guide said that all the people who enter and exit here are border residents. Tourists are not allowed to enter and exit from here, so the entry and exit procedures are simple, and the natural gate is also simple. There are only two female armed police officers on duty at the pavilion. Here, the national gate and the armed police are not allowed to take pictures, but it is no problem to step on the border here, but the management of the Spring Festival or other holidays is a little stricter.

To be honest, it was the first time for me to come to such a "children's play" national border. Under the instigation of the tour guide, we stepped on the yellow national border and stepped into Myanmar, but the armed police next to us didn't even look at it. Let's take a look. Although we dare not make too much of a fuss, we are standing, sitting, walking or jumping on this national border, frequently "exiting and entering"... This is really a wonderful experience. Because national boundaries have always been considered extremely sacred. I remember that when I left Vietnam in Chongzuo, the national border was in the middle of the bridge. At that time, I could only stand on the national border to take pictures before getting a visa; while in Suifenhe, the national border was firmly secured by iron fences several meters high. It was sealed off, and there was a notice board next to it, with photos of our nationals who accidentally crossed the border and were shot and killed by Russian border guards...

There is also a house next to the national border, which says "One hospital, two countries". Everything here is really transnational, and I accidentally crossed the border and went abroad.

Then the tour guide took us out of the country and across the road to the living area of ​​Yinjingzhai. Under the blue sky and white clouds, the firecrackers and flowers were in full bloom, but the tour guide started to introduce the silverware, and felt a little wrong. Sure enough, we finally walked into a silverware shop. shop, but there are only 4 of us except the clerk in the shop. Although the quilt routine is a bit uncomfortable, the silverware here is not bad, the quality is sterling silver, and there are also silver masters who carve flowers according to requirements, the price of silver is slightly higher than that of regular jewelry stores, the best point is that even There were only 4 of us in the store, and we all showed no intention of buying from the beginning. The tour guide was not angry, as if he had completed the task. There is a Garfield cat in the store, who is very interested in the bell on my camera bag, but its simple appearance makes us all interested, so we collectively tease the cat with the store staff. The clerk said it was called Wangcai, and I just took a shower today and cut my nails so I can hug it casually.

Coming out of the silver shop, the tour guide sent us out, and then said that the show started at 4 o'clock, and there were still less than 10 minutes left, so we hurried out of Yinjing Village, and then went through the national gate to return to the Yizhai and Two Kingdoms scenic spots, and rushed to the stage. It turned out to be too late. When we arrived, the dance of the Budao people just ended. This is the program I want to watch the most. After all, this is the long-necked people with the smallest population in the world and only Burmese.

Afterwards, the dances of the Dai people "There is a Beautiful Place" and "Deep in the Bamboo Forest", but the most eye-catching thing is a little Burmese boy on the side of the stage, probably a child brought by a dancer, learning behind the curtain on the stage The dance performance was very serious and cute, but he didn't know that he was completely exposed to the audience off the stage, which caused bursts of laughter from the audience.

Then there is the top tank dance in Myanmar. A group of aunts who look like Burmese people put on Myanmar sunscreen on their faces. Each of them danced on the stage with 4 large clay pots. It is said that these pots really look good. It is very heavy, and their necks are extremely unnaturally pressed. However, for the sake of livelihood, they are probably used to this kind of heavy pressure, so the expressions on their faces are quite relaxed, and they will show faint smiles from time to time, but because The weight of these jars, so the dance movements are actually quite simple, just a simple rhythm of hands and feet.

Finally, the performance of the whole show ended in the Mu Nao Song of the Jingpo people, and we continued to visit the scenic spot.

After that, there are "China-Myanmar Jade National Boundary", "One Tree and Two Countries", "One Well and Two Countries", "Splashing Water Square"... After seeing a lot, I found that the scenic spots of Yizhai and Two Countries are very large, and I also found that there are stickers for everything here. Bearing the label of "One × Two Countries", everything is really international.

Then I found that there is a handmade scarf shop of the Budao people next to it. The total number of Budao people is only about 200. They live on the border between lower Myanmar and northern Thailand. Because of the fear of jungle tigers and the convenience of carrying precious metals during wars, girls will wear metal rings around their necks from birth, and later become unique. According to the aesthetics, the average girl will wear 18-28 sets, which weighs about 20 kilograms. This kind of ring is basically never taken off for life, but because they have been wearing it since birth, their necks are not fully developed. As long as the ring is removed, they will lose their support, and they will soon suffocate to death. Out of humanitarian concern, the Burmese government has explicitly prohibited them from continuing to wear neck rings, so there are only a dozen people who still wear neck rings, and these dozen people are the last representatives of long-necked civilization. 5 people, 3 people in the Royal Paradise in Muse, Myanmar.

Next to the photo with the long-necked girl, it says 10 yuan once. In fact, as long as you give 10 yuan, she will not really only want you to take a photo once. However, after I found out that I went to Muse in Burma, I only need to give 2 yuan. Take photos casually.

Next, we came to a screw pagoda imitating the construction of Yafuyou in Myanmar. It is said that more than 2,000 years ago, a large stone shaped like a screw fell to the top of a mountain and hung in the air. Later, the Buddha Sakyamuni cut off his own hair and put it on the screw stone. Since then, it has become a holy place for Buddhism. It is said that if you touch it three times, you can get what you want, but women can't touch the screw stupa. After years of baptism, the current screw stupa has fallen to almost touch the top of the mountain, but it is said that the gap between the screw stupa and the top of the mountain can still be pulled across with a rope.

When I saw the legend of the screw pagoda, my first reaction was not a miracle of Buddhism and Taoism, but whether the suspended stone was related to alien civilization.

Climb up the screw pagoda to overlook the lake view of Yizhai and the two countries. There are also ziplines on the lake, which can be experienced for a fee.

Going around the pagoda, walking through the China-Myanmar Street full of small commodities, you will come to the most beautiful scenic spot in the scenic spot, the Shwedagon Pagoda. The style of the Shwedagon Pagoda is closer to the Burmese style than the style of Banna, which is close to Laos and Thailand. You need to take off your shoes to enter the Shwedagon Pagoda. After climbing the Shwedagon Pagoda, you can overlook the entire scenic spot of the two villages.

Behind the Shwedagon Pagoda, there is a newly built pagoda forest. The color and shape of the pagodas are all antique. The newly built antique pagodas in the plain woods of this small border village look like the scenery of Bagan, Myanmar. Originally planned to go to Bagan, but in the two countries of Yizhai, I was the first to experience the glorious scene of the ancient Buddhist civilization in the golden Indochina Peninsula.

Coming down from the Shwedagon Pagoda, there is a postbox next to it, which also says "one country, two postboxes", but there is no post office here, and there is no way to deliver postcards. At this time, the uncle called and found out that it was almost 6 o'clock. We went around the lake and returned to the entrance of the scenic spot. In the lake, we can also experience the Burmese Rhine boat. It costs 10 yuan to take a bamboo boat around the lake.

After walking out of the scenic spot, I found that I hadn’t eaten well all day, so I asked the uncle if he had any recommendations. The uncle said that there is a very famous pilaf in Ruili, so we headed towards this pilaf without saying a word.

Arrive at Jingyuan Jingpo at 6:00 and grab rice with hand, 160 yuan set meal for 4 people. Hand-picked rice is mainly a special diet of the Jingpo people. Most of the food is grilled, and the taste is spicy and sour. The utensils are all natural banana leaves. So I remembered that the meals I ate at the home of Hani friends in Xishuangbanna were also wrapped in banana leaves. Roasted, mixed with wild pepper, the mouth can be so hot that it becomes red and swollen.

The main meal is a bamboo dustpan with a diameter of about 50 centimeters, covered with fresh green banana leaves, with glutinous rice in the middle and more than a dozen piles of side dishes around the glutinous rice, including Jingpo ghost chicken and beef steak. , Roasted suckling pig, grilled tilapia with plantain, mixed with dry bark, steamed pumpkin, mixed with mint with houttuynia cordata, mixed with acacia leaves...etc.

Put on disposable gloves, pinch the rice and side dishes together, and then put them into your mouth with your hands. The original and quaint aroma accompanied by the unbridled eating method makes every taste cell in your mouth explode instantly. Especially the ghost chicken and the sansho pepper in the mixed wild vegetables are extremely spicy, sweating instantly on the forehead, and even the illusion of countless villains in Jingpo costumes dancing Mu Nao Zongge around him, obviously too hot to bear, but But I still can't stop, this feeling is really hearty.

At 7 o'clock, after eating, I didn't bother to ask the uncle to pick us up again. I walked for an hour along the road next to Nanmao Lake Park and returned to my residence. As night fell, Ruili became extremely cool again, and various unknown flowers and plants bloomed along the way. , the freshness and nature faintly reveal a wild atmosphere.

Ready to go, tomorrow's destination: Muse, Myanmar.

★Northern Myanmar story

At 8:30, the old lady who talked a lot was waiting for us at the hotel entrance on time. She said that Ruili in the morning really didn’t look like a Dai village. She was wearing short-sleeved shorts and was so cold that she couldn’t wait to get into the car, and then looked forward to the bright sunshine. Some scorched the earth beneath their feet.

Walking through the streets of Ruili, there are not too many pedestrians. The eldest sister said that after all, the Spring Festival holiday has just passed, but it will be crowded again on March 1st. One of the most populous ethnic groups in Dehong Prefecture, the Jingpo ethnic group’s largest annual event is Munao Zongge was held on March 1 this year, and the biggest venue this year was chosen in Ruili. Hey, there is such a time difference of one or two days, and I have no choice but to miss the Munao Zongge Festival.

Arrived at Jiegao Port at 9 o'clock, the temperature was still relatively low, and there were many Burmese people around. Even if they didn't apply the sunscreen that is the symbol of Burmese nationals on their faces, they could still see their looks and expressions different from those of Chinese people from their eyebrows and eyes.

The eldest sister first took us to see the Tianyadijiao Monument, and told us that during the Spring Festival we had to take a photo with the monument, but there were huge crowds of people queuing up, but at this time the monument stood alone in an inconspicuous corner by the Jiegao Port. I took pictures in various poses of this inconspicuous stele that no one paid attention to.

The eldest sister gave us the pass, and then told us that after passing the Chinese port, we will wait for the Myanmar tour guide to receive us in the buffer zone in the middle, and help us go through the formalities of entering Myanmar. Going through the customs is extremely simple, even easier than the security checks at large domestic stations, stamped and passed the security checks, and then walked out of China.

Because we are all individual travelers joining the group, after the 4 of us gave the border permits to the tour guide, she still needs to wait for other individual travelers to come over, and then go through Myanmar entry together after collecting them all. We are in the buffer zone of the China-Myanmar customs Rest and wait for nearly an hour. There is still a boundary marker in the middle of the buffer zone, with the name of the country written on both sides in Chinese and Burmese respectively. At this time, no one cares about it, and we wantonly monopolize it.

The gate of the Burmese Customs is blocked by a simple fence sliding door. The opposite is Muse City. Although it is only separated by a wall, the words on the billboards on the street are basically in an unfamiliar Burmese language, and there are cars on the street. , dark-faced Burmese walked up and down the street, and some curious Burmese lazily lay on the fence gate and looked at the white-skinned Chinese waiting to enter and exit the customs. There are also many Burmese people holding border certificates who frequently come in and out of the customs, turning a blind eye to us tourists.

It took an hour to gather the group of individual passengers, and there were actually not many people crossing the border today, about 3 minibuses were full. The Burmese tour guide who led our team can speak Chinese very well. She is an elder sister of the Dai nationality. She took our border travel permit and led us through the Burmese customs quickly. Then, we officially entered Myanmar and unlocked ourselves like a side ball. Thirteenth country to travel.

Tip: The time difference between Myanmar and China is an hour and a half slower. Myanmar kyat to RMB is about 200: 1,100 RMB can be exchanged for 20,600 kyat in the market. In addition, if it is a half-day tour, a maximum exchange of 50 RMB is enough. The local prices are very low. In addition After returning to China, you can also use kyats for shopping on China-Myanmar Street.

After passing through the customs, the tour guide Ah Hong took us to a dirt road next to us, and got into a rather worn-out minibus. The family hugged each other all the way, wondering if it was to commemorate the predecessors of the expeditionary army in the Battle of Myitkyina.

After getting on the bus, Ah Hong began to explain. She said that Myanmar time is one and a half hours behind Beijing time, so in fact, Muse is only after 8 o'clock in the morning, and most shops in Myanmar are not open yet. She went on to say that Myanmar’s economy is actually equivalent to China’s in the 1970s and 1980s. It reminded us that when we went to Vietnam a few years ago, the whole society felt very similar to here. Ahong then said that the main purpose of coming to Myanmar is to see Myanmar. Buddhist temple, because the time is still quite early, I hope we can finish the four scenic spots in the plan before noon and lunch: Chanlin Temple, Gaoshan Temple, Muse Market and Yufo Temple. After the group meal, you can report an item at your own expense 50 yuan per person The Royal City Paradise, where you can watch Burmese national performances, and then prepare to return to China.

In fact, if you don’t report the self-funded items, you will stay in Myanmar for two or three hours, go to four scenic spots in a hurry and have a meal before returning to China; even if you report the self-funded items, you will return to China at about 2 in the afternoon. It's only 4 hours, and the 4 scenic spots in the morning are basically half an hour, and it feels too hasty.

However, there is really no other consumption in the whole process. In addition, the tour fee is only more than 300 yuan, which also includes the processing of entry and exit documents. Think about it, it only takes more than 500 yuan for a Myanmar visa, so I don’t think about it, and I will go deeper in the future if I have a chance Let’s go to the inland of Myanmar, don’t think about it this time, and appreciate the 4-hour journey in a small town in northern Myanmar.

Then Ahong began to talk about the cultural customs of Myanmar. She said that there are only two seasons in the whole of Myanmar, namely the cool season and the hot season. Now it is the beginning of spring in China, but it is the best and most comfortable cool season in Myanmar. The temperature is about 10 degrees. The highest temperature in Myanmar can exceed about 40 degrees in midsummer. Then Myanmar is divided into two parts, Upper Myanmar and Lower Myanmar. Lower Myanmar is an area controlled by the government army. It is relatively peaceful and has a better economy. Several major cities such as the capital are located in Lower Myanmar. Several areas including Kachin State are still fighting, but Muse City is located in Shan State, and the main ethnic group in Kachin State is the Jingpo ethnic group in China, while the theme ethnic group in Shan State is the Dai ethnic group who believe in Theravada Buddhism, so currently Shan State is relatively peaceful, and Muse, which borders China, is also a state-level port, and its economy is relatively prosperous. In the afternoon, we are going to see the performance of the Long-necked people (Budao people). They come from the area bordering Lower Burma and Thailand. They are the smallest ethnic group in the world. Gradually developed the custom of wearing metal rings around the neck from birth. The number of metal rings ranged from 18 to 28. Once the metal rings were put on, due to the abnormal development of the neck, they could not be removed, otherwise they would be suffocated and died. Die, the Burmese government has banned women from wearing rings out of humanitarian considerations, so there are only a dozen Budao women wearing metal rings in the world.

Then Ahong went on to say that the biggest symbol of the Burmese is the layer of sunscreen on the face, which is a yellow powder made by hand-grinding a tree special in central Myanmar. It is mixed with water and applied on the face It can bring a cool feeling, prevent sun protection and beautify and whiten skin, so almost all people in Myanmar can use it. It is also the only cosmetic in Myanmar that can be exported to the UK, Thailand and other places. The reason for exporting to the UK is because the British discovered this cosmetic during the colonial period. the benefits of. Most Chinese people don't like the layer of powder that can be seen on the face, so now they have developed a type that can't be seen on the face like ordinary skin care products. If you like it, you can buy it. Most of the scenic spots I pass by on the way sell this kind of sunscreen lotion, but the price is quite expensive, nearly 100 yuan a bottle. In fact, if you buy it on China-Myanmar Street after returning to China, the cheapest one can be bought at 5 yuan.

Then Ahong went on to say that there are only 7 zodiac signs in Myanmar, and there is no marriage system in Myanmar. As long as you like, you can entertain guests and friends and live together. In addition, Myanmar is polygamous. As long as you have enough wives and are attractive, then You can marry as many wives as you like. In Burmese, boys are called "dogs", girls are called "cats", and the pronunciation of "Ni Hao" is similar to "folk trumpet".

During Ah Hong’s explanation, our car drove out of the urban area and drove forward on the dirt road among the mountains. The sun gradually became warmer, and the red soil on the road was flying. Finally, the bus stopped in front of a mountain, and an asphalt road stretched upwards. , the tall archway is full of Burmese words, and there are puppies with diseases but clear eyes on the side of the road wagging their tails at us.

Ah Hong said that the first scenic spot, the Zen Forest Garden, has arrived.

Chanlinyuan is a temple on the outskirts of Muse City. It is quite far from the urban area, hidden in the mountains and forests. It seems that except for Chinese tourists, it is difficult to see local believers, and the pagodas and temples in the temple seem to be newly built. , Ah Hong also said that the Buddhist temples are basically newly built, and they are still under construction. Many Chinese tourists will donate money to build them, but the prices in Myanmar are too low, so the amount of investment can be used on the temple’s donation wall Leave your name.

The origin of the Zen Forest is said to be that a Burmese eminent monk practiced Taoism in a cave here. This cave is at the entrance of the Zen Forest, and it is resplendently built. Although the Zen Forest Temple is more like a scenic spot built to welcome Chinese tourists, the Buddha statue building inside still has a bright style of Myanmar. It is hidden in the mountains and forests, and the dignity of treasures is hidden in the tranquility. It is still worth seeing. Look, but Ah Hong walked quite fast, and the Kung Fu team for taking pictures disappeared under her leadership. Fortunately, this is a one-way street, and you have to turn back the same way when you reach the sitting Buddha at the end.

Tip: You need to take off your shoes to step on the floor tiles of the Buddhist temples in Myanmar. In addition, the Buddha statues can be photographed. Most of the countries in Southeast Asia and South Asia are actually welcome to take pictures of Buddha statues, because local believers feel that they can take the blessings of Buddha back home. This is different from China, where photography of Buddha statues is generally prohibited in China.

After we came out of the Zen Forest, we rushed to the next temple, Gaoshan Temple, without stopping.

Compared with Zen Forest, Gaoshan Temple is closer to the outskirts of the city, and it is more like a holy place for local believers to worship. A Hong said that there is a Pagoda of Happiness and Perfection in Gaoshan Temple, which is also called Jinlushan Pagoda. As mentioned earlier, Burmese people are polygamous, and they do not have the habit of registering marriages. When local people get married, they usually go to the turret under the Happiness Tower to pray for a happy marriage.

There are three scenic spots worth seeing in Gaoshan Temple, one is the temple complex of Gaoshan Temple. The temples here are more historical and imposing than the Chanlinyuan. The resplendent temples and brightly colored Buddha statues look very eye-catching. Although most countries in the Indochina Peninsula believe in Theravada Buddhism, the pagodas and Buddha statues are very similar, but there are still obvious differences when you look closely. The Buddha statues in Myanmar are mostly gold and emerald green, and the colors are very bright. The appearance of the Buddha statues is more rounded and gentle, and it is more down-to-earth than the Buddha statues in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and other countries.

The second point is the Dai Palace. In fact, it is a small ancestral hall. Muse is located in the Shan State of northern Myanmar, where the Dai people live for generations, and Muse's Dai King sacrificial hall is next to the Gaoshan Temple. There is a big banyan tree next to the Dai Palace, which tells the story of a single tree growing into a forest alone.

The third is the Tower of Happiness. The golden pagoda is much bigger than expected, but in a poor country like Myanmar, the pagoda is very magnificent. At this time, the pagoda is being repaired, the top of the pagoda is wrapped up, and the body of the pagoda is also covered with scaffolding, but this does not prevent believers from coming to pray for happiness. Many local people wearing brand-new and dazzling Burmese traditional costumes came to worship, mostly women, and lamas, who worshiped piously in front of the pagoda, rejoiced at the merit place next to the pagoda, and then took photos in front of the pagoda.

There is a small shop selling beverages and coffee under the Happiness Tower. The price is not cheap compared to the urban area, but the economic level of the two countries is not balanced. People enjoy the price here. The coffee is only 5 yuan a cup, and the freshly squeezed juice is 8 yuan. One cup, including freshly squeezed avocado, is the cheapest one I have encountered along the way, even cheaper than the one in Mangshi, and the juice is very thick. There is also Myanmar’s national sunscreen dew sold here, a small box costs 30 yuan, and you can use a brush to brush on your face after mixing it with water. This sunscreen lotion is made by hand from the neem tree, a specialty in central Myanmar. The fragrance is very unique and strong, so I curiously picked up a brush and tried to brush some on my face, but the result was very futile. The girl couldn't stand it anymore, she came over with a smile and motioned for me to raise my face, and then she took the brush and brushed my entire face in one go! But when brushed on the face, it is cool, very fragrant and feels very comfortable.

The next step is to go to Muse's big market, but Ah Hong said that because most of the things in the market are imported from China, it is not worth seeing, so everyone should follow her and walk through the market. In fact, I am quite interested in the market. Regardless of whether the things are cheap goods imported from China or not, at least this is the most marketable place, and I can best experience the local culture.

The minibus went down the mountain from Gaoshan Temple, and then gradually drove into the urban area. Muse is the largest national port in Myanmar. The economy here is considered good in Myanmar, but the whole small town still looks dilapidated, just like a small town on the 18th line in China. . I accidentally saw the recruitment notice in the shop next door. It was a Chinese recruitment notice. The basic salary of the account manager was only 500 yuan, and it was still facing Chinese or Chinese recruitment.

Ah Hong asked everyone to get off at a relatively open intersection. There is a square clock tower here. Ah Hong said that it is a relic from the British colonial period and generally symbolizes the city center. Then I took everyone into the central market, which is actually very similar to the domestic farmers' market, and most of the goods on display are imported from China.

At the gate of the market there is a woman with a computer to exchange currency, but she doesn’t understand Chinese. Ahong helped us translate and said that 100 yuan was exchanged for 20,600 kyats. I originally planned to exchange it for 100 yuan. Endless... This is really the least exchange of foreign currency, but the eldest sister who changed the currency did not have change notes, and finally gave 10,000 kyats, and I returned 2 yuan...

There are many children in the market, they look dark and thin, they saw our group of Chinese tourists who are not rich still ran over, and then randomly found a person to hug their thighs and refused to let go, mumbling in their mouths that they couldn’t understand If you speak non-standard Chinese, and then feel that you are asking for money, it is actually quite easy to deal with, and they will give up if you give 1 yuan.

Although light chemical products are quite boring, the snacks in the market are very good, and they are all cheap. All kinds of unnamed Burmese snacks on the stalls are almost 1 yuan each, and if you use kyats, it is 200 yuan each. Most of them are glutinous rice products. Ahong recommended a snack made of small lotus root. But the taste is slightly spicy.

It took a lot of time to buy small food, and when I got on the minibus in a hurry, I found that many people were still wandering around the market and did not come back. While waiting for others in the minibus, those children who were asking for money in the market gathered around the door of the minibus. The driver It was very fierce not to let them get in the car, they just stood at the door of the car looking at us in the sun, and then made funny faces with the children in the car, making the children laugh, and then they seemed to forget to continue begging, so they kept teasing the team The children in the movie laughed innocently, they are just a group of innocent children.

Next, go to the last of the four scenic spots in the morning, Jinlu Temple, I call it Yufo Temple, because there is a spring here, and there are 7 Buddha statues of the zodiac outside the spring water. A Hong said that the residents here will celebrate their birthdays. Come here, and then use the spring water to pour the zodiac Buddha statues to bathe in the Buddha.

Yufo Temple is located in the center of the city, not far from the central market. Besides the Buddhist hall, there is also a lama school. When we entered the temple, many young lamas were wearing yellow cassocks and just finished their classes. In front of the Buddhist hall, there are also vendors selling coffee, candy, and sunscreen lotion from a travel agency. The prices are not expensive; there is a family of four in front of the Buddhist hall. It costs RMB 10 to take photos with tourists while holding plantains. Once tourists take pictures with them, they will say "eggplant" in non-standard Chinese, and the pronunciation sounds very cute.

After bathing the Buddha with spring water, it was already 12:30 Beijing time, and the main scenic spots were finished. Ahong took us to have lunch, and reminded everyone to pay 50 yuan per person for the folk song and dance in the afternoon. She and the rest of the tourists who do not participate in the self-financed meal will prepare to return home after dinner.

The lunch was actually quite good, with shrimp crackers, a specialty of Southeast Asia, as well as steam pot chicken and fish, roasted pork with potatoes, etc., but according to the taste, it should be Chinese food, which probably has nothing to do with Myanmar.

After lunch, those who participated in the self-financed project gathered in one car, so the three cars were integrated into one car and set off towards Huangcheng Paradise. The Royal City Paradise is on the outskirts of the city, and minibuses are advancing along a small river. From time to time, large trucks from Myanmar pass by our car. A Hong said that these are all transported at the border between Mujie and Jiegao, in the north of Myanmar. Most of the goods in Myanmar are imported from China, and Myanmar’s exports to China are generally rice and other crops. Sometimes, in order to evade taxes, people even use boats to pull goods across the river. After all, China is on the other side of the river.

Huangcheng Paradise is not big, it looks similar to a small park in China, surrounded by woods there are a few quaint ethnic thatched cottages, and a small stage, 50 yuan a ticket is actually not expensive, But locally, it is considered one-tenth of a month's salary, so it is estimated that this place was built specifically for Chinese tourists.

Under the leadership of Ah Hong, we each bought tickets at the ticket window, and then entered the paradise under the welcome of the Dai nationality at the park entrance. There were dark Burmese children standing everywhere under the winding tree-lined path, mostly 2-5 Around the age of 10, they are all very cute, with sunscreen on their faces, wearing slightly staged national costumes, with a small pannier around their necks hanging down to their chests, clapping their hands expressionlessly while repeating the word "Welcome" . If you like children, or want to take photos with children, you only need to put a dollar in the back basket.

In order to grab a good seat, I went straight to the bottom of the stage to find a seat near the front. The little girl from Myanmar who was serving at the side also gave everyone mineral water and Myanmar candy. She would not mind if she wanted to take more. The stage was very simple, and the broadcast was in Chinese, but the tone sounded very awkward. The overall feeling seemed to be a domestic stage performance in the 1980s, but the few seats in the audience were quickly filled by Chinese tourists.

The first program is the dance performance of three Budao women. These long-spirited girls of the giant panda ethnic group are actually not good at dancing because of the abnormal development of their necks. They are just simple foot and hand movements. The rarity of their own they are still relatively hard to perform.

The second program is the tank top dance, but compared to the big sisters in Yizhai and the two countries with a few tanks, the little girls here only have a small tank, and the performance is more in nature.

Then, there was a lottery session. The hostess with a strange and cute accent finally showed her true face. With the entrance ticket stubs, the prizes were surprisingly good, including Myanmar handmade umbrellas, sunscreen, etc., but it is a pity that None of the 4 of us hit.

Next is the Thai ladyboy show, and after a national dance, there is the Pakistani ladyboy show, and then the whole show is over. It’s a little surprising that there are quite a lot of Pakistanis in Ruili. These two ladyboys are relatively average in appearance and good in shape. Speaking of which, they have almost traveled to Southeast Asia. I have seen ladyboy shows in China. This is the first time I saw a ladyboy show abroad. Thailand is in Myanmar instead, which feels really strange. After the performance, another fat ladyboy came out, and the host said that if you want to take a photo with the ladyboy, you only need to pay 10 yuan.

Then there is free time for free activities. You can watch the Burmese grandma hand-grinding neem sunscreen powder in the paradise, and you can also take photos with the little sisters of various ethnic groups in Myanmar. You only need to give one yuan. A little more expensive, Ah Hong said to give 5 yuan, but many people gave 2 yuan, and those Budao girls also accepted it very gently. I have never encountered such a low service fee. I just tipped casually in Bangkok, Manila, and Bali. And that's not all.

I just went to grab a seat under the stage, and didn’t play well with the children in the garden. Then I went to communicate with them now. As long as you raise the camera, they will pretend to smile and show the scissorhands very cooperatively. Although it’s a fake smile, But they can't hide their childishness and cuteness, and even if they don't give that one dollar, they won't chase after it or be unhappy. It seems that they think their task is to take a photo with the tourists. How much it is is a matter for adults.

After walking through the Royal City Paradise, I was ready to go back to China. Ah Hong greeted everyone back to China and Pakistan and then started the return journey. The trip in Myanmar was relatively fast, but the guests disappeared or were delayed by something on the way. The Myanmar tour guide Not in a hurry and very relaxed.

I followed the Myanmar tour guide through the Myanmar customs, then passed the Chinese customs with the border travel permit, and returned to Jiegao, exactly at two o'clock in the afternoon.

The 4-hour itinerary of Muse in northern Myanmar was successfully completed. This time the outbound trip was as short as a dream while half asleep and half awake.

★Story of eating and drinking in Dai Township

When we got back to Jiegao, the elder sister of the travel agency was already waiting for us at the port. She said that yesterday afternoon she spent too much time in Yizhai and the two countries, and she didn’t have time to go to the China-Myanmar Street. Our last trip.

In fact, the China-Myanmar Street is a jade street. At this time, the Spring Festival holiday has just passed, and many shops are empty, and we are not interested in jade, so the eldest sister said that we can stroll by the barbed wire at the border.

When I approached the barbed wire fence on the street, I found a hidden mystery. This dense barbed wire fence divides the street into two halves. There are almost no tourists in the Chinese half, but on the Burmese side, there are hidden bougainvillea bushes climbing the wire wall. There are many stalls set up by small Burmese merchants, all of which are small commodities made in Myanmar, and the price is super cost-effective. The Burmese currency we just exchanged at the Muse Central Market has not been used up (there is no chance to use it), and here is 2 yuan A pack of cigarettes, 6 yuan a bag of toffee, while the previous attractions sold 30,80 sunscreen lotion, here you can buy it for 5-10 yuan, just negotiate the price through the wire wall, and then transfer the money from the wire mesh Throw it over, and then the Burmese brother will pack the goods and throw them over the barbed wire. With this throw, these goods will cross the border and be thrown from one country to another. This kind of "international trade" is really fun.

Next to China-Myanmar Street is a port that only border residents and vehicles are allowed to pass through.

After shopping for a while, I felt a bit boring after buying some things, so I found my elder sister and was going back to Ruili. The elder sister who was too chatty all the way said that we should stay for a few more days, after all, the biggest festival of the Jingpo people. Song was about to arrive, and then she said that it was still early and asked us if we wanted to try Dai snacks. The Paoluda she knew was very famous in Ruili. Although we didn’t know what Paoluda was, we all readily agreed to go.

The eldest sister drove us to the Kaitong Hotel, and then said that the Nong En Pao Luta was very delicious. We planned to walk back to the hotel after eating the pao Lu Da, so we said goodbye to the eldest sister.

Although there are several shops next to each other, the business in Nong En Pao Luda is the best. It was 3:30 in the afternoon, but groups of young people crowded the small shops. Here are all Dai-style snacks, there are various flavors of pounded chicken feet, as well as snacks such as small roll noodles, sprinkles, and beef balls. The so-called paoluda is actually a sweet cold drink of the Dai people. All kinds of colorful rice crackers and shredded coconut, and finally soaked in two or three pieces of dry bread. I personally think it is delicious, but the other three agree that it is too sweet.

Tip: In Ruili City, you can take bus Nos. 5, 6, 9, and 10 to Kaitong Hotel. Buses No. 6 and 9 depart from the comprehensive passenger station. Nong En Pao Luda is opposite Kaitong Hotel. The per capita consumption is about 15 yuan. A cup of bubble dew is 6 yuan, a bowl of strawberry dew is 8 yuan, and a cup of freshly squeezed avocado is 10 yuan.

After eating Paoluda, we walked back to the hotel in the brilliant but cool sunlight of Ruili. There are a lot of Dai-style snacks that have never been seen before, such as golden barbecue, pudding for 2 yuan a bowl, coconut milk, water-splashed rice cakes, mixed dried rice...even some are packed in a basket on the street. Hot white rice sold along the street. The barbecue looks greasy, but it is very crispy, refreshing and not greasy. All kinds of rice cakes are also sweet and delicious. The key point is that these things are not expensive, and most of them are unique to Dai Township. Memories, all kinds of cheap and strange Dai-style snacks, bursting with happiness.

Walking back to the hotel, after a short rest, after nightfall, set off again, blowing the cool night breeze of Ruili, along the barbecue night market to find a self-service hot pot and barbecue restaurant, the dishes are good, 60 yuan per person, 10 o'clock after eating heartily We walked back to the hotel slowly around the time. At this time, more Dai-style barbecue stalls had just started to set up stalls, and Ruili's nightlife began to gradually kick off.

I made a good deal with the big sister of the travel agency. Tomorrow at 9 o'clock, I will charter a car to Mangshi, which is the last stop of the Spring Festival travel.

[Mangshi Chapter] Peacocks Flying Deep in the Bamboo Forest (Mengba Naxi + Menghuan Shwedagon Pagoda)

★Mengba Naxi Rare Garden

At nine o'clock in the morning, before the sun came out in Ruili, the air was fresh and slightly cold. After getting into the car, the master is a young man from the Dai nationality. He set off from Ruili to Mangshi. After passing through a peacock-shaped archway for an hour and a half, several beautiful golden Shwedagon Pagodas appeared in front of him, and Mangshi arrived.

Tip: From Ruili to Mangshi, a 5-seater chartered car costs 300 yuan per side, and the high-speed one-hour drive costs 73 yuan (included in the chartered car fee).

Before the name change, Mangshi was called Luxi City, and it was the capital of Dehong Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture. However, compared with the hustle and bustle of Ruili’s border market, Mangshi is quieter and more life-like. The temperature is also slightly lower than that of Ruili, and prices are lower. It is the lowest among several cities in our trip.

A good hotel is only 70 yuan for a standard room, but the interior furnishings of the hotel are a little old, and it seems that no one has come to stay for a long time. There are many breakfast shops conveniently under the hotel. The first thing to do after putting away your luggage and going downstairs is to have a steaming bowl of breakfast in the fresh air of Mangshi. The bait cooked in a small pot with strange cooking utensils is only 6 A bowl of freshly squeezed lemonade is 6 yuan, and a lemon sprinkle is 15 yuan. Talking about it for a few days, this is our first meal. Rice noodles, dried beef and a bowl of strange soup are served separately. It was only after eating that we realized that the bowl of sour soup was filled with dense grass leaves. There is still a lot of beef in it, which probably needs to be mixed together to eat.

Passing by a video store, I chose to buy a few CDs of the Achang nationality. The owner of the store looked like he was not a Han nationality. He smiled and asked us if we were here to participate in the Munao Zongge Festival. We could only shake our heads regretfully.

Walking through a pedestrian street, I found that the pilaf here is much cheaper than Ruili, so I decided to come here to eat after I came out of Mengbalaxi, and arrived at the gate of Mengbalaxi at 11:30.

Mengba Naxi is a 4A scenic spot. At the entrance of the scenic spot, there is a wooden pillar of the Jingpo nationality and a Buddhist building of the Dai nationality. The ticket is 40 yuan per person, and the national statutory holiday is 30 yuan per person. Online booking 36 Yuan one. Although there are still a few tourist buses stopping here, the whole big garden still looks quiet and slightly depressed.

Entering Mengba Naxi, the first building in front of you is the Memorial Pavilion of Premier Zhou Enlai. On the facade of the stacked Dai village-like building, there is a relief statue of Premier Zhou. Behind the relief is the Memorial Pavilion in February 1988. It is the friendship between Premier Zhou and the people in the frontier.

Coming out of the memorial pavilion, we passed through a large forest of phoenix-tailed bamboos. Next to the statue of the golden rooster Aluan, there were bursts of sharp birdsong in the bougainvillea forest. Listen carefully, and the same sound came from the big banyan tree nearby In response, I searched for a long time before I found out that they were free-range peacocks in the garden. These most beautiful birds in the world are leisurely looking for food in the garden at this time, and they seem not afraid of the tourists around them. So he spread his colorful wings and flew to the tall banyan tree to hide.

There are many rotten trees lying on the ground in the bougainvillea grove. If you look carefully, you will find that they are as hard as stones. These are tree-turned jade. After thousands of years of historical precipitation, those dead trees have now turned into jade. The texture has a jade-like crystal luster.

Passing through the Egg Garden and the Banyan Tree Garden, we came to the Kinky Stone Hall, where there are many strange stones, especially a few rough jade stones, one of which was not too eye-catching was once used as a stool by us, and later A tour guide came here with a group of foreign tourists. After listening to him, he realized that this unremarkable stone was actually the treasure of the town and garden. It was a piece of jade called "Asia No. 1". Yuan also failed to buy it away. At this time, the 120 million yuan stood inconspicuously in a corner of the garden, and we used it as a bench.

Next to 120 million, there are three pavilions, namely Kistler Pavilion, Jade Pavilion and Rare Wood Pavilion.

All kinds of strange stones are displayed in the strange stone hall, such as paleontological fossils, crystal stones, meat stones, etc. There are also small pieces of meat stone toys for sale, and you can buy one at the cheapest tens of dollars.

The jade in the Jade Museum is mainly large carvings of tree jade. Relying on the combination of wood and wood texture of jade, the carvers skillfully carved out various shocking and beautiful works. It is just a big tree The price of hundreds of millions of carved jade pieces makes people feel that they can only be viewed from a distance.

The Rare Wood Hall is a raw material and carving exhibition hall for various kinds of mahogany, rosewood, rosewood and other precious woods. Just entering the exhibition hall is a huge mahogany lion and tiger carving. Needless to say, those inside are extremely huge. The timber raw materials are also priced at hundreds of millions.

So I couldn't help but think, these hundreds of billions of assets are just placed here without warning for us poor people to visit? And who is the owner of these things? Not to mention whether the horrifyingly priced timber on the China-Myanmar-China-Vietnam border is worth the money, but these things are really like a wall, making people feel that the world is actually a little bit different sometimes. free.

Therefore, those ethnic-style pilafs make me happier than these hard and precious woods.

The Mengba Naxi garden is very large, and the sunshine in Mangshi is very comfortable. Walk slowly out of Mengba Naxi and return to the pedestrian street. There is a pilaf for 20 yuan, a cup of paoluda for 10 yuan, and a pound for 2 yuan. Chicken feet... or these are more real and happier.

There is a massage shop not far downstairs from the hotel. Young men and women are working happily in it. One hour of foot bath and massage is only 15 yuan. This is really the lowest service price I have encountered in so many places. , and the method is really good.

The trip is coming to an end, and the excitement at the start has gradually faded away. I just want to finish the rest of the trip leisurely and slowly. I go back to the hotel to rest until 8:00 before going out for dinner. I found it in a barbecue restaurant opposite Dehong Teachers College. A lonely hand-picked restaurant called Jingpo Green Leaf Feast, compared with the booming business of several barbecue restaurants next to it, a few aunts sat in the restaurant in a daze, four of them ordered a 45 yuan hand-picked rice. We were worried that the food would not be enough, but when the dustpan covered with banana leaves was brought to the table, we realized that it was not much different from the 160 set meal that we ate in Ruili a few days ago, including fried eggs, roast suckling pig, and cold Houttuynia cordata , Jingpo ghost chicken... and the super-large plantain grilled tilapia, which 4 people almost didn't finish. The per capita weight of more than ten yuan is too real.

After eating pilaf, I walked slowly in the comfortable temperature of Mangshi, and finally walked along Munao Zongge Road to the center of Mangshi, and then slowly walked back to the hotel accompanied by the moonlight.

The night in Mangshi is idle and leisurely, too comfortable.

★Menghuan Shwedagon Pagoda

The flight back to Kunming at 9:50 in the evening. If you take a bus from Mangshi back to Kunming, it will take more than 10 hours, and the price is more expensive than the usual off-season airfare. Yesterday the clerk told us that the usual airfare from Mangshi to Kunming is only 200 yuan.

Except that Adu needs to go back to Shanghai early so we set off early in the morning, we slept until 12:30 noon before getting up to check out, and then left our luggage at the hotel front desk. There is only one goal today: Menghuan Shwedagon Pagoda.

Lunch is still Jingpo pilaf, because I think this Jingpo pilaf really has ethnic characteristics, the taste is very good, and it is also cheap, and the average person can eat very happily for less than 15 yuan. After eating, we scanned a shared bicycle, and we set off towards Menghuan Shwedagon Pagoda by bicycle.

The Menghuan Great Golden Pagoda is located on the top of Leiyarang Mountain by the Peacock Lake in the southeast of Mangshi. It is the number one golden pagoda in my country and the number one hollow pagoda in Asia. It is said that Buddha Sakyamuni was reincarnated as the golden rooster Aluan He lived here when he was young. The highest point of the pagoda has a 2.3-ton golden dome, and there are also sub-trees of the bodhi tree that the Buddha introduced from Sri Lanka.

When I started to climb Leiya Rang Mountain, it was very difficult to ride a bicycle. I gave up cycling at the entrance of a climbing path and asked the elder sister who sold snacks at the intersection. I was told that I could hike up the mountain from this trail. Just about 20 minutes. The pickled plums and papaya sold by the eldest sister are both delicious, and only a few cents a piece, but the taste is too spicy.

In the middle of the road, there is a Monument to the Anti-Japanese War in West Yunnan, built in May 1942, to commemorate the Chinese Expeditionary Army, the people of all ethnic groups in Dehong, the overseas Chinese mechanics in Nanyang and the allied soldiers who died heroically in the Anti-Japanese War.

The mountain road is not long, Leiyarang Mountain is only 1080 meters above sea level, but the climbing road in the bamboo forest is relatively steep, and it took a lot of time to climb to the top of the mountain, but it was only found under the Menghuan Shrine More spectacular than imagined. It is said that there is another Menghuan Dayin Pagoda on the top of the opposite mountain, but it is still under repair and not open to the public.

There is a small commercial street in front of the main entrance of the Shwedagon Pagoda, selling food or souvenirs, etc. Most of the freshly squeezed juices cost 8-10 yuan a cup, and there is also a set of incense candles and ingots for 10 yuan a bag.

The main entrance of the Shwedagon Pagoda is carved with two five-headed snakes, which are very common in Buddhist buildings in Southeast Asia. I remember that there was such a building on the stone bridge of Angkor Wat. It is said that the five-headed snakes were the Buddha before his enlightenment. He once protected the Buddha under his head to shelter from wind and rain. Climbing along the main road of the main entrance of the Shwedagon Pagoda, the buildings and statues have some shadows of Burma, but more are more similar to the pagoda buildings in Thailand, resplendent and solemn, there is an illusion of coming to the world of gods and Buddhas, There are many tourists in the surrounding area, boys and girls in Dai costumes, perhaps the villagers of Dai Village in Dehong came to worship the Golden Pagoda.

Tickets for the Shwedagon Pagoda are 40 yuan per person, and the discounted price for students is 20 yuan per person. Menghuan is a transliteration of Dai, which means Mangshi. After entering the scenic area of ​​the Shwedagon Pagoda, the first thing you see is the south gate of the Shwedagon Pagoda, and there are many vivid and magnificent Buddha statues around the Shwedagon Pagoda under the shade of fragrant flowers, including Thunder God, the God of Harmony, and the Golden Bird of the Dancing God. , the goddess of the Ganges, the statues of the Three Precepts, the saint, the messenger of merit, the god of dancing golden birds with human faces, Hercules, black elephants, and white elephants; and there are statues of golden rooster Aluan at the north gate of the Shwedagon Pagoda, and there are statues on the southeast side. Jade Buddha statue of Shakyamuni Buddha reclining Buddha. These statues subtly soften the Indian and Thai styles, and also reflect the characteristics of the Dai area in Dehong, which is very worth watching.

On the west side of the Shwedagon Pagoda is the side of Leiya Rang Mountain facing the urban area of ​​Mangshi. There is a huge Dai ethnic gong hanging in the corridor here, and from here you can lean on the railing and overlook the whole Mangshi in the tropical rainforest. You can have a panoramic view of the city.

Inside the Shwedagon Pagoda are huge statues of Buddhas and Bodhisattvas such as Maitreya Avalokitesvara and Sakyamuni, and around them are many Buddhist relics collected from various places. A monk sits beside the Buddha statue and mutters According to the mantra, you can donate some merits as you like, and then ask the monk to tie a blessing rope on your hand. I still have the colored ropes that I tied in Durbar Square in Nepal last November, so I walked out of the Shwedagon Pagoda without a prayer rope after the visit, and went to the corridor on the west side to rest.

So far, the Spring Festival trip to Southwest Yunnan and Kamanbei has basically finished the scenic spots that I want to go, and the next step is to go back. I just sit on the top of Lei Ya Rang Mountain, and I will wear Buddha incense from time to time, so that I will be lazy The floor stand is placed among various flowers, blowing the splendid spring breeze of Mangshi, which is not in a hurry.

Turn back down the mountain from the original road, return to Xianchi Road, and then continue to ride the shared bicycle down the mountain. The steep slope when you came here has become extremely happy at this time. Turned into Lei Yarang, a gust of wind down the mountain, free and unrestrained.

Originally, I wanted to eat pilaf for dinner, but I ate too much in the past two days, so I wanted to change the taste. When I cycled past the door of the pilaf restaurant, there were still no customers in the small shop. Probably remembering our faces, they smiled slightly and watched us walk through the door of the store. Finally, I ate the sticky noodles and pot stickers in a small shop, and the taste was not bad. Then I continued to go to the super cheap massage shop, and after a comfortable and super cost-effective massage, I took a taxi to the airport at exactly 8 o'clock in the evening.

The golden pagodas in the urban area of ​​Mangshi are lit up with golden lights after night falls, so these golden pagodas are shining golden in the night, compared with the dazzling light in the daytime, they seem to be the only ones in the dark night. The protagonist, dazzling and eye-catching.

Dehong’s airport is not too small, and it’s very well-built. Boarding was smooth at 9:50. The stewardesses of Ruili Airlines had very distinctive costumes. They wore beautiful Dai and Jingpo ethnic costumes aside from the uniform uniforms, which were very beautiful. After 50 minutes of flight time, we returned to Kunming less than 11 o'clock.

There was a strong wind blowing in Kunming at night, and it was difficult for us to wear shorts, so we remembered that it was still the Spring Festival, and the pleasant weather in Dehong made us think that summer had entered too early. The hotel we booked sent a car to pick us up, stayed in Huajing Village, had supper, it was after 12 o'clock, and we bid farewell to the summer warmth in southwestern Yunnan.

【Kunming chapter﹒ 2. Farewell to Yunnan (Crossing Bridge Rice Noodles)

★Goodbye, South of the Clouds

I didn’t get up until 11:30 in the hotel in Huajing Village. Because Le had to take the evening flight to Mianyang directly, and we had to take the K166 back to Chengdu at 7:40 in the evening, so we said goodbye.

The hotel pick-up service car took us to the Airport Front Station of Metro Line 6. The fare was 5 yuan. After an hour's journey, we arrived at Kunming Railway Station. After we left our luggage, it was still early, and the sun in Yunnan began to shine again. His skin felt hot, and it seemed that the cold wind in the morning and evening was all an illusion.

Tip: You can take the subway directly from the airport to Kunming Railway Station. The fare is 5 yuan and it takes 1 hour. The transfer route is: Kunming Airport (Line 6) Dongfang Bus Station (change to Line 3) Dongfeng Plaza (change to Line 2) , and then directly change to Line 1) Kunming Railway Station.

There are still a few hours left, so I plan to go to the city to have lunch. Thinking that I have been to Kunming so many times, I have never tried the most famous Qiaoxiangyuan Crossing Bridge Rice Noodles in Jinbi Square, so I went there happily.

Tip: From Kunming Railway Station to Jinbi Square, you can take bus No. K12 and No. 107 directly, and get off at Dongsi Street, which takes about half an hour.

Speaking of Qiaoxiangyuan Crossing Bridge Rice Noodles in Jinbi Plaza, there are several reasons why I missed it so many times. One is that you can probably find a Yunnan restaurant in Chengdu to eat Crossing Bridge Rice Noodles; Third, I remember that when I first came to Kunming ten years ago, I was still a poor student. At that time, I heard that a bowl of rice noodles at 58 was a bit expensive.

However, I didn’t expect that the price of this bridge rice noodle has not changed after more than ten years. In fact, 58 is the most expensive set. According to the different ingredients, it is divided into several sets of 18, 25, 28, and 58. Generally speaking, ordering 28 is enough, and there are really a lot of side dishes, and the big bowl of rice noodles is like a washbasin. Not to mention eating heartily, there is no need to worry about not having enough food.

In addition, the drinks here are also good. The 3 yuan cup of papaya water is actually ice powder with rose sauce. Ice powder is a seasonal food in Sichuan and only appears in summer, but the papaya water here is cheap and refreshing, and it is completely addictive.

After lunch, I wasted time wandering aimlessly in the pedestrian street in the center of Kunming. The sun was shining on my skin, and my whole body was slightly hot between the blue sky, white clouds and the breeze. This is an extremely pleasant state.

Prepare to return at 6:00, and wait for the No. 107 bus at Dongsi Street. However, the traffic in Kunming is slightly congested at this time, and it took nearly 40 minutes to wait for the half-hour drive. When I entered the station, I met the green army of the armed police, but everything went very smoothly. Before the train started at 7:40, I lay down on my bed smoothly, and then watched the scenery outside the window change from slow to fast.

March and April are the most beautiful seasons in Chengdu Plain in my mind. At this time, golden rapeseed flowers will bloom everywhere, like pieces of golden ocean. Under the lazy sunshine in early spring, pollen will fly around the whole world, and then the whole world All become very sweet.

On the last day at the end of February 2018, I woke up on the gently shaking train. At this time, the train had passed through the tunnels of Daliang Mountain and returned to the Chengdu Plain. There are mountain flowers all over the world, and sunshine all over the world.

Yes, no matter how strange the world will become, we must move forward bravely and march forward, because the world will always be filled with sunshine quietly.

FIN