Only Xu Zhimo's romance can translate the rigorous and retro "Florence" into a romantic emerald:


Are you really leaving tomorrow? Then me, then me,...

You don't have to worry about it, sooner or later that day will come;

If you want to remember me, remember me,

...

The unchanging star in the sky is you,

I wish you would shine more light for me, across the night,

Across the sky, with a little bit of love...


Many years ago, as a reporter for a gourmet magazine, I followed a red wine delegation to stop in Florence. During the interval between several wine tasting activities in a day, I only had one or two hours to look up at the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore and the Municipal Square, and immerse myself in Xu Zhimo’s and Dante's poems, immersed in da Vinci's oil-painted faded green fir.

This cool walk, for short, can be called "Fei Ku", I think, FRESCO, in English is a mural, I don't know if this is the theme of the restaurant, but the mural, indeed, is Fei Leng Cui, And the soul of the whole Mediterranean.

The food of "FRESCO Feiku" takes the Mediterranean as the theme, involving the surrounding flavors of Italy, France, Spain and other countries. Under the dreamy and soft lighting, "ENJOY", each dish becomes a condensed history and a flowing legend.

France: The "Oyster Gate" Battle More Exciting Than a Blockbuster


There are a lot of cruelty and complexity that we can't imagine in a wealthy family, and the "Oyster Gate" is also the same.

As the most tender and juicy delicacy in the ocean, all the deliciousness of oysters actually depends on the waters where they grow. In the world of wine, what the land is to grapes is terroir; in the world of oysters, what the sea is to oysters is also terroir.

It is said that the cultivation of oysters is much simpler than many other top ingredients. As long as there is clear and clean sea water, as long as the salinity is not too high and the oxygen content is sufficient, as long as there is a flowing but not intense warm sea area, let the oysters grow. The seedlings grow quietly for more than two or three years, and the best oysters can be grown.

However, this is also the most complicated. Seawater determines the flavor of oysters. Different salinity, different temperature, and even differences in microbial and mineral content can affect the quality and flavor of oysters.

Delicious and plump oysters often come from places where warm ocean currents pass, such as France, Portugal, the Gulf of Mexico in the United States, and the east coast of Australia. The lean, crisp and delicate flavor is mostly oysters grown in cold waters, such as the United States and western Canada.

Experts, especially wine connoisseurs, give oysters a particularly complex flavor, creamy, nutty, mineral, honeydew, cucumber, these common aromas in wine can be found in oysters from different waters and different origins. captured in.

Therefore, in "FRESCO Feiku", the precious oysters have many varieties such as "Royal Fame", French Kiss, Rose Pink Diamond, etc., but the most famous one is the "Rolls Royce" of oysters - Girardeau oysters.

Of course, Girardeau oysters can be ordered a la carte, but in the premium oyster Spanish scarlet shrimp platter, surrounded by New Zealand deep-sea langoustine, Spanish scarlet shrimp, Ranville Bay conch, and French-style kissed oysters, this rugged " "Rock Oyster" will have a more outstanding kingly temperament-you know, other supporting roles, including the cooked French blue mussel Zobelli Rivera, whichever one you take out, can become a glorious four in the Mediterranean feast. They are the protagonists of the shooting, but as soon as they encounter Girardeau oysters, their charming splendor immediately becomes dimmed.

According to the professional advertising slogan, "every oyster has undergone 59 complicated breeding methods"

Professional connoisseurs will say that half of Girardeau oysters are farmed on the coast of Normandy in northern France and half in Ireland. Most oysters only live in one place for life, but Girardeau oysters are not. After four years of growth, they will be sent thousands of miles to the Gulf of Marenne-Aureon in western France, just above the mouth of Bordeaux, France, where they will go through a two-month "special training" before being sold on the market. After the red wine is brewed, it must be placed in oak barrels for a period of time before it tastes good.

I can only say that after the Girardeau oysters are opened, you can smell a strong salty smell of sea water, just like the breath of the ocean; It is elastic, the meat is plump and plump, and when chewed carefully, it has a bit of crispness and sweetness, mixed with a little milk flavor. Experts will say that there is a unique hazelnut flavor and some obvious minerality.

Such high-level oysters must of course be paired with good wine.

If I were in Europe at this time, "local wine with local food" is the best food and wine pairing formula, and the traditional classic pairing of French oysters is champagne, such as Muscadet in the western Loire Valley and Chablis in northern Burgundy; at least, yes French sparkling wine or dry white, but their prices can be on par with the best oysters.

Therefore, "FRESCO" is placed in front of me. It is an Australian yellow tail dry white wine with an eye-catching image of a kangaroo, making it the most successful export wine in the history of Australian wine. The origin of the civilians in the New World proves that the price of this wine must be quite low, but the clear and slightly sweet taste is also filled with the slightly drunkenness of the Loire Valley, which makes Girardeau oysters bloom in the most delicious season.


Spain: More passionate ham and paella than Carmen


To describe Iberian pork, you don’t need to use all kinds of words. One sentence: "the best pork in the world" is enough.

The baby pig dedicated to ham grows in the Iberian Plateau of Spain. It is small in size, covered with black hair, with a long pointed snout and strong legs. According to historical records, it is the only free-ranging pig in the ancient European ecosystem. species, and the closest species to the wild boar. Because it is stocked in mountains and forests and eats wild pastures and acorns, it has a balanced fat distribution, unique fragrance, and soft meat. Its sirloin and naked eyes are most suitable for highlighting the true flavor with the simplest cooking method.

We saw a huge ham cutting machine in the open kitchen of "FRESCO Feiku", which sliced ​​the whole ham as thin as paper, with a light fragrance of fat in the slightly salty.

A plate of crimson translucent ham is on the table, exuding a bright color like roses, and the middle is evenly covered with luscious fat like marble patterns. Grab it with your thumb and forefinger and put it in your mouth, where it melts. like a full kiss,

Another piece, the rich aroma of ham allows the fat to seep out from the texture of the meat through the long chewing process. The ham’s hooves and elbows have more meat fibers and are more tenacious, which increases the chewing taste. The sweet and salty, meat balsamic and fresh fruity aromas are intertwined with each other, making the complex and harmonious taste world perform a gorgeous dream. feel.

Although I have tasted the top seafood platter, the prawns, squid, and shellfish in the paella are still exciting. After all, cooked food is the taste that more Chinese people love.

It is said that the method of Spanish paella is similar to that of Chinese stewed rice. First, fish, shellfish, and vegetables are fried thoroughly with olive oil, and then a variety of condiments are added, and cooked together with rice. According to the maturing time of the rice, add the appropriate proportion of chicken soup in stages. After the chicken soup moistens the rice grains again and again until it is golden and full, the fresh aroma of seafood, mellow meat aroma and light sweet vegetable aroma surround the rice that is not fully cooked. In my opinion, it seems that all paellas are similar, but the fastidious Spaniards believe that only Valencia, the third largest city in Spain, can be called the hometown of paella.

There are natural and delicious ham, rich and delicious paella, in front of my eyes, it seems like the passionate red dress of "Carmen", fluttering in the Mediterranean breeze...


Dry-aged steak, a well-dressed gentleman walking on the shore of the Mediterranean Sea


It is said that the popularity of steak in Europe originated more than 200 years ago, and there was even a special song to praise steak. However, the steak of "FRESCO Feiku" is not the other steak, but the dry-aged steak with unique selection and exquisite method.

Ordinary steak meat will be deacidified after slaughtering, and then sealed in a vacuum bag, which not only facilitates the preservation of the steak, but also allows it to soften naturally during storage. This treatment process is called "wet aging" (Wet Aged). , low cost and easy to operate, but it will make the beef inevitably have a little sour taste.

But if it is selected by "FRESCO", the top-quality Australian beef from Rangers Valley, wet aging is too wasteful, and "dry aging" (AGING), which is more complicated and takes longer, is worthy of them The status of high-end steak treatment. Just like the mellow taste of fine wine can only be bred through aging, these steaks that have been carefully cared for and patiently waited for "mature" will be completely reborn after more than ten days.

In the obvious position of the entrance of "FRESCO Feiku", there are several huge pieces of beef placed in the transparent "aging cabinet". The surface of the beef was dry, but the color was a beautiful deep red, like a delicious ripe fruit.

Directly above the cabinet reads: DRG AGING is a slow, traditional method of refined meat processing that utilizes natural enzymes and biology to hydrolyze and soften muscle fibers, ultimately increasing beef tenderness and flavor.

Relevant information shows that the so-called dry aging is to put the beef in a aging environment with a constant temperature of 0-4°C, a constant humidity of about 80%, dust-free and air circulation, so that the blood will slowly drain away, and the surface will be air-dried and hardened, so that The beef in the inner layer is naturally decomposed to produce enzymes, brewing aroma, loosening muscle fibers and softening connective tissue, while the delicious gravy is locked in by the outer shell, which in turn penetrates into the fibrous tissue.

A relevant department has made a scientific comparison. The steak that claims to be matured for 7 days has a richer aroma, longer aftertaste, and softer taste than ordinary steak; the steak that has been matured for 14 days will have a light aroma of cream and nuts, etc. Of course, these steaks have to go through very strict supervision when they are matured. A little negligence will turn a brilliant diamond into a mediocre stone.

I always thought that the "legend" was exaggerated, but after tasting a three-mature dry-aged steak at "FRESCO Feiku"-Angus Sirloin Steak, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the seemingly similar steaks turned out to be the same Rich flavor, plump and juicy!

Of course, there is also the finale, "Red Wine with Red Meat", or this ordinary red wine at its peak age is still far from the many masterpieces of French red wine, but like the yellow tail wine, it has a super high The price-performance ratio, with the charming purple color, the mellow and mellow aroma, slips into the throat similarly with the steak, the wonderful aftertaste needs to be carefully experienced.

The feast is coming to an end, but wait a minute, there are still hidden secrets in the restaurant. For example, the "National Treasure" Josper oven in Spain perfectly combines the charcoal grill and the oven, uses high-temperature cooking ingredients, seals the high-quality ingredients, smokes and grills them at the same time, and naturally adds the added value of firewood (charcoal fire), It penetrates into the ingredients and is baked in a Josper oven to make it spiritually delicious, such as the rich gravy between the delicate texture of the steak, such as the rich, fresh and sweet layering of grilled seafood, which matches the elegant environment of the restaurant and the restaurant. The street outside Dongzhimen is full of traffic, and the noble temperament is also inadvertently revealed.

Indeed, this place is "across the sky" from "Fei Leng Cui", but it is really "cool", "a little bit of love..."