In order to avoid the hot and humid summer in the south of the Yangtze River, we decided to take a walk-and-go trip. According to the Northeast strategy that had already been drawn up, it took less than a week from buying the ticket to booking the hotel. On the morning of August 3, 2018, we boarded the train from Nanjing to Shenyang (K348/06.21-07.55/347 yuan), all the way north. Started the first trip to the Northeast.
D1: Nanjing-Shenyang (on the train)
D2: Shenyang - Shenyang Forbidden City - Erdaobaihe (on the train)
D3: Baihe-Changbai Mountain Tianchi (Su Erdao Baihe Town)
D4: Baihe - Changbaishan Wetland Park - Shenyang (on the train)
D5: Shenyang-Harbin-Central Street-Songhua Riverside (Harbin)
D6: Harbin - Qiqihar - Zhalong Wetland Park - Hailar (on the train)
D7: Hailar-Erguna Wetland Park-Daxinganling Heishantou (Su Heishantou)
D8: Heishantou of Greater Khingan Mountains - Golden Horde Khan Tribe - Tashi Town (Su Tashi Town)
D9: Tashi Town - Manzhouli National Gate - Matryoshka Square - Mammoth Park (Su Tashi Town)
D10: Tashi Town - Hailar Anti-Fascist Memorial Park - Harbin (on the train)
D11: Harbin - Sun Island Park - Shanhaiguan (on the train)
D12: Shanhaiguan - Laolongtou - Beidaihe - Tiger Rock Seaside Park (Subeidaihe)
D13: Beidaihe - Pigeon Nest Seaside Park - Beidaihe Wetland Park (Subeidaihe)
D14: Beidaihe-Bitahai Park (Subeidaihe)
D15: Beidaihe-Nanjing (on the train)
Shenyang
On the morning of August 4th, when we left Shenyang Railway Station, a roiling heat wave hit our faces, and the high temperature of 37 degrees created the extreme value since Shenyang had meteorological records. Greatly exceeded our expectations. We took Metro Line 1 (direction to Liming Square) at the square in front of the station, passed 4 stations, and got off at Huaiyuanmen Station (exit C). km, about 30 minutes), we arrived at the first stop of our trip—Shenyang Forbidden City. Tickets for the Shenyang Forbidden City are 60 yuan, half-ticket for 60-year-olds.
The Shenyang Forbidden City is located in Shenhe District, Shenyang City, Liaoning Province. It is also known as the two largest royal palace complexes in my country together with the Beijing Forbidden City. Before the Qing Dynasty entered the customs, it was called the Shengjing Palace. After the Qing Dynasty moved its capital to Beijing, this imperial palace was called "Paper Capital Palace" or "Liudu Palace". After the Revolution of 1911, it was called the Shenyang Imperial Palace.
The Shenyang Forbidden City covers an area of more than 60,000 square meters and has 114 ancient buildings with a history of more than 400 years, which are well preserved. It has rich historical and cultural connotations. It is the site of an ancient royal palace, and its museum in the courtyard has a very rich collection of palace art treasures. In 2004, the Shenyang Imperial Palace was included in the "World Heritage List". On the day of arrival, its museum was being renovated inside and out, and we were unable to see its rich collections.
The Shenyang Imperial Palace was built in 1625 during the Nurhachi period and in 1636 during the Huangtaiji period. After reconstruction and addition during the Kangxi and Qianlong periods, it has formed more than 100 palaces, pavilions, pavilions, and Zhaitang today. More than 500 rooms, covering an area of 60,000 square meters. This is the first imperial palace complex in the Qing Dynasty, with a strong Manchu style and local characteristics of Northeast China.
Beginning with Qing Taizu Nurhachi, the leaders of the Qing Dynasty fought against the Ming Empire for seven consecutive generations, and finally managed to gain control of the Central Plains. In order to preserve the hard-won country, the Taizu of the Qing Dynasty always reminded the descendants to take "caution, frugality, virtue, and precepts" as the ancestor's motto. Compared with the Forbidden City in Beijing, the Shenyang Forbidden City is smaller and simpler. It is said that it has something to do with the ancestors' precepts.
Chongzheng Hall - the most important building in the Shenyang Imperial Palace. It was the meeting hall where the emperors and important ministers discussed the great affairs together in the early Qing Dynasty, and it was also the permanent place where grand ceremonies were held. In 1636 A.D., the celebration of changing the name of the country from the Later Jin Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty was held here. In 1644, the then Emperor Shunzhi of the Qing Dynasty issued an expedition order here, ordering the Regent Dole to lead his troops into Shanhaiguan, take control of the Central Plains, and complete the unification of the Qing Dynasty in one fell swoop.
We visited the Shenyang Forbidden City for more than two hours, and then ate a stone pot meal called "Flesh and Bone Connected" at the Zhongjie Food City outside the North Gate of the Forbidden City. It was 24 yuan per person. Southern taste. At this time, the sun was scorching in Shenyang, and the temperature was as high as 39 degrees Celsius. The hot people were sweating profusely and could hardly breathe. Next to the hourly room of Rujia Hotel to rest and take a pleasant hot bath) until leaving Shenyang.
That night, we took the train K7377 (18.39-07.27) and left Shenyang for Erdaobaihe Town in Yanbian Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province (we stayed in the car that night), preparing for our trip to Changbaishan Tianchi tomorrow.
This is our first time to take a train in the mountains in the northeast, and the feeling of taking a train in other places is obviously different. Maybe it’s because this train travels to and from this line every day. The train crew and passengers along the way are very familiar with each other, and the relationship is also very harmonious. Passengers also trust the train crew and seem to regard the train as a temporary home. On the way, a group of men, women, old and young came up from Fushun North Railway Station (going to Tianchi to play), there were forty or fifty people (one person took the lead to buy tickets). Due to the limited time at the station, the train conductor asked everyone to get on the train before checking the tickets. So, the person who took the lead in buying tickets handed over a large amount of tickets to the conductor and went to the dinner party; the women gathered together to chat and eat melon seeds leisurely; the train immediately became a playground for children. But the conductor and conductor were too busy. They not only have to find the parents of each child, take care of the children repeatedly, but also help the elderly and children to coordinate berths or make up sleeper berths (we both have upper berths, and if we want to change to middle or lower berths, we also ask the train conductor for help. The train conductor thought we were companions with this group of passengers, and after working for a while, the train conductor came to tell us that the upper berth had been made up for us. When we said that there was an upper berth, the train conductor said: You have a berth.) Two or three hours later, until everyone was in their proper place, the train gradually settled down.
Changbai Mountain Chapter
Erdaobaihe Town belongs to Antu County of Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Jilin Province, and is located in the southeast of Jilin Province. Located in the hinterland of Changbai Mountain, it is rich in forest resources, adjacent to North Korea in the southeast, and 34 kilometers away from Tianchi Lake in Changbai Mountain. Known as "the first town under Changbai Mountain" and "the hometown of Meirensong", it is a famous tourist attraction with "sacred mountain, holy water, strange forest and fairy fruit".
On the morning of August 5th, we arrived at the beautiful town of Erdaobaihe. Most tourists who come to Changbai Mountain will choose to stay or transit here. Erdaobaihe is full of tourists in summer, and the hotels and hotels are almost full. Just when we were worrying about finding accommodation, we bumped into a resort hotel called Senda in the town, 360 yuan per standard room (Tongcheng Hotel next door was 420 yuan 30 minutes ago, and 460 yuan after 30 minutes ), it looks pretty good, the young owner of the hotel is a fellow from Jiangsu, and he is very warm to us.
I heard before that Tianchi in Changbai Mountain is a place where you regret not coming, but also regret when you come. But the Northeast people have a soft spot for Changbai Mountain Tianchi. Every summer, people from all walks of life, such as group tours, self-driving tours, self-guided tours, family tours, and parent-child tours, gather at Changbai Mountain Tianchi. Today's Changbai Mountain Tianchi has not only developed the North Slope and West Slope Scenic Spots, but the South Slope Scenic Spot has also been opened, but it is still hard to find a ticket. Scenic spots can only adopt a flow-limiting system (after the number of people reaches a certain level, how many people go out and how many people come in). We couldn't get tickets at all at the box office. Finally, the ticket was purchased from the Internet until two o’clock in the afternoon (Changbaishan Tianchi is free for 65-year-olds. But the transportation cost is expensive: 36 yuan from Erdaobaihe to Beipo Mountain Gate + 85 yuan from Shanmen to Tianchi Visitor Center + visitor center to Tianchi 80 yuan on the plank road = 201 yuan per capita transportation fee) It is said that Changbai Mountain Tianchi is a place where tourists burn money.
There is a long line of tourists, winding 1500 meters to the Tianchi Lake, the peak of Changbai Mountain, which is spectacular.
The white path opposite Tianchi belongs to North Korea. There will be North Korea on the west bank of the Yalu River. If you don’t see it with your own eyes, you will never imagine it.
Changbai Mountain Tianchi is the main peak of Changbai Mountain, and is now known as Changbai Mountain Volcanic Geopark (the water surface of Tianchi is 2402 meters above sea level). Due to the high altitude of Tianchi, it is shrouded by warm and humid air from the Sea of Japan all the year round. It is said that the probability that tourists can see Tianchi is only 30% every year. Some people say that when you come to Changbai Mountain to see Tianchi Lake, you have to look at your character and luck. I dare not say about my character, but our luck is pretty good.
These huge stones piled up on the bank of Tianchi Lake are formed by the accumulation of magma during the volcanic eruption. Due to its volcanic ash condition, there is no grass around Tianchi Lake in Changbai Mountain. It is completely different from Tianshan Tianchi's geology and landforms (we have been to Tianshan Tianchi, it is a small oasis in the Tianshan Valley), and the scenery is more primitive and vast than Tianshan Tianchi, full of the sense of time and space.
Tianchi in Changbai Mountain in summer can be sunny and rainy, and one day may experience spring, summer, autumn and winter. There are two heavens up and down the mountain. You wear a short-sleeved T-shirt at the foot of the mountain, and you have to wear a down jacket when you get to the mountain, otherwise, you will be shivering from the cold.
For the whole day on August 6, we had plenty of time to relax and watch the scenery in the beautiful Erdaobaihe town. In the morning, I went to the famous Beauty Pine Garden next to the town. Like any forest park, Changbai Mountain people recorded how forestry workers became heroes of logging, and then how they became heroes of forest protection. Probably, only in the hinterland of Changbai Mountain can you see what is called a real virgin forest and what is called exhausted forest resources.
In summer, Erdaobaihe opened a tourist bus line (from July 10th to October 10th every year), and 1 yuan per person can go from one scenic spot to another. It is very convenient, and the drivers are also very enthusiastic. Beckon and stop. Moreover, all attractions are free. The surrounding scenery of the town is pleasant, the weather is cool, and the dining conditions are also very good. Naturally, it is very happy to visit! After lunch, we spent an afternoon in Changbai Mountain Wetland Huahai Park next to the town, and the feeling is still unsatisfactory.
Harbin
That night, we bid farewell to the beautiful town of Erdaobaihe, and took the train to Shenyang to Harbin (K7378/18.53-08.25/158 yuan). On the morning of August 7th, transfer from Shenyang North Station to train Z177 (10.54-15.31) and arrive at Harbin West Station in the afternoon. Get out of the station and take subway line 3 to subway line 1. After 8 stops, get off at Museum subway station (exit 3D). After that, walk northwest along Hongjun Street for about 800 meters (the whole journey takes 40 minutes), and you will arrive at us. Ctrip online booking, online review 4.3 points, standard room 117 yuan, including single breakfast for the 7-day Harbin Zhanqian Square store.
We chose to stay here based on our considerations. First, it is a certain distance from the central city of Harbin, so the accommodation price is relatively cheap. Second, there are many buses in front of the hotel that can reach various scenic spots in Harbin (Central Street, Saint Sophia Church , Flood Control Memorial Tower Square, Sun Island, Ice and Snow World, etc.); third, the hotel is close to the residential area, and the restaurants are dense and easy to choose, and the price is also reasonable (afterwards, we came to Harbin many times and stayed here). After checking into the hotel, we had a short rest. After dinner downstairs, we took bus No. 13 to Harbin's Central Street and the Songhua River.
Go north along Central Avenue to the end, and you will arrive at the Flood Control Memorial Tower Square by the Songhua River.
Harbin tourists flock to Harbin in summer. In the evening, the central street is brightly lit and full of exotic atmosphere. A large number of citizens and tourists gathered on the square of the Flood Control Memorial Tower. The Songhua River is sparkling, like poetry and picturesque. People here spontaneously sing and dance, play and sing, enjoying the cool evening breeze by the Songhua River and the beautiful night of Jiangcheng.
Lenovo about Harbin:
There is no doubt that Harbin is a charming Northeast metropolis with a strong Russian imprint. Such as Central Street, Gogol Street, St. Sophia Church, Stalin Square, Red Army Street, Laodaoli, Daowai, etc., including countless old buildings and old streets such as Laoha Station (the old railway station) and the China Eastern Railway Corporation. Area. The distinctive marks left by Tsarist Russia can be seen everywhere. Let's not talk about how beautiful the city is and how hospitable the people are, but let's talk about its Russian architecture and railways!
When you see how perfectly the architecture and art of Tsarist Russia were combined; as early as the early 18th century, it is amazing enough to build such a powerful railway network in a colony. More than a century has passed, and now, as long as you are anywhere in Harbin, you can clearly see the solid side of Tsarist Russia.
On April 28, 1946, Harbin officially returned to the embrace of the motherland, and a new chapter in history has been opened since then. Especially after decades of open development, today's Harbin city is unique and unique. She not only maintains a strong exotic style, but also is full of authentic Northeast charm. Some people say that it is a boat floating on the beautiful Songhua River, full of colors and scenery, moored here, adding a unique charm to this deep black land! The charming summer of Harbin, the charming night of Harbin, we have been dreaming of it for a long time, and we traveled thousands of kilometers. Today, we finally come to your side and witness your beauty!
That night, on our way back to the hotel, we took pictures of the beautiful night view of Harbin Railway Station (Laoha Station).
Zhalong Red-crowned Crane
On the morning of August 8th, we walked from the hotel to Harbin Railway Station, took the bullet train D6909 (07.18-09.03) to Qiqihar, and took the bus line 306 in the square in front of the station (every 30 minutes, get on the bus to buy a ticket), round-trip 20 Yuan/person, go to the famous Zhalong Red-crowned Crane Nature Reserve.
Zhalong Wetland Reserve is 30 kilometers away from Qiqihar Railway Station, and the journey takes about 40 minutes to reach the ticket office of Zhalong Reserve. Tickets for Zhalong Wetland are 60 (including sightseeing fare in the scenic area), and there are many red-crowned crane performances in the reserve every day (no additional charge). On the way to the red-crowned crane flying area, we saw a lot of lotus ponds and flower fields.
The Zhalong Red-crowned Crane Nature Reserve is very large. After decades of artificial breeding, it has become a veritable second hometown of red-crowned cranes. As soon as we entered the reserve, we met several female cranes and their young looking for food leisurely in the reeds, without avoiding the crowd at all.
On the day we arrived, there were three red-crowned crane flying performances in the reserve, each about 1 hour. For this reason, it attracts a large number of tourists to watch every day. Braving the high temperature and roasting, we watched two red-crowned crane flying performances in a row, which was really enjoyable! It's just that there is no shelter in the protected area at noon, and it is indeed too hot. In order to cool down, we also ate "Madier" (a brand of popsicles in Northeast China).
Zhalong Wetland Reserve in summer, blue sky and white clouds. The flying red-crowned cranes danced to the sound of music. Don't be afraid of the "click" of the camera. Tourists are enjoying this moment. That night, we returned to Qiqihar and took the train K1303 (21.32-07.17/129 yuan) to Hailar in Inner Mongolia. Started the northern line tour of Hulunbuir Grassland. In the car that night.
Ergun Chapter
On the morning of August 9th, the train arrived at Hailar. We took a long-distance bus from Hailar Passenger Station in front of the railway station for 47 yuan per person. The journey was more than 140 kilometers and took more than 2 hours. In the Erguna Passenger Station, transfer to a dedicated bus for a round trip of 10 yuan per person, and you will arrive at the Erguna Wetland Park, which is known as the No. 1 in Asia.
In order to rush to Heishanto to take pictures of the most beautiful sunset in Greater Khingan Mountains that night, as soon as we entered the Wetland Park, we began to climb crazily. We spared no effort for about an hour, and finally climbed to the highest viewing platform. I thought that the infinite scenery was at a high place, but I realized that the most ornamental season in the Wetland Park is golden autumn (when the beech is red all over the mountains and the birch forest is golden) and winter to see the snow scene here.
It's not too bad, the sky is blue and white clouds today, it is said that there are more than 10,000 negative oxygen ions here, five times that of Beijing, believe it or not. "The high Xing'an Mountains, a big forest┄┄" childhood vision, today, we are standing here for real, witnessing its vast expanse with our own eyes!
Returning to the passenger station from Erguna Wetland Park, we took a long-distance bus, 18 yuan per person, and arrived at Heishantou Town in Daxinganling as scheduled at 5:00 pm. We found a good accommodation first, and then walked to the top of Montenegro to watch the sunset. At this time, the place was already full of long guns and short guns, and people were looking forward to the moment of sunset. The weather is fine today, sunset should be no problem.
Memories left in Montenegro:
At this time, you stand on the top of Montenegro and look into the distance. Not far in front (in the direction of the Ergun River) is the famous "seven cards, eight cards" (the only existing ones, delineated by the Sino-Russian Nerchinsk Treaty) a certain boundary). In 1689, the Chinese and Russian armies confronted each other for 8 months and negotiated for 11 months, and finally signed the first international treaty between the two countries, the Sino-Russian Treaty of Nerchinsk.
According to historical records, Tsar Alexander I and Emperor Kang Xu of the Qing Dynasty were both young men in their prime. The national power of both sides was on the rise, especially the Qing Dynasty dispatched Soltu as the commanding army, which maintained strong military pressure on the Russian army, and once besieged the city of Nerchinsk (a small town at the time), which made the tsar dare not act rashly. The final treaty is signed equally.
Today, except for the "seven cards and eight cards", other border cards have long since disappeared in Mongolia or Russia, and the vast territory of the Qing Dynasty, such as the Outer Xing'an Mountains to Sakhalin Island, which was surveyed in the "Sino-Russian Treaty of Nerchinsk", has already passed through Unequal treaties such as the "Sino-Russian Aigun Treaty" and "Sino-Russian Beijing Treaty" have become the hinterland of other countries. Not only will you be beaten if you fall behind, but you will also have to cede land and pay compensation! This is the international law of the jungle. It is also a deep memory left on the top of Montenegro!
Watching the sunset here, you can drive the car directly up the hill. This is the typical landform of Daxing'an Mountains, gentle and smooth hills, no matter how you drive.
At this moment, what are the people standing on the top of Montenegro thinking about besides watching the sunset?
After watching the sunset, the convoy lined up and headed down the mountain, which was spectacular. Only the two of us went down the mountain on foot. The house not far away (circled) is the hotel we stayed in. A hotel run by a young local couple, the standard room including double breakfast is 260 yuan, so that we can catch up with the sunset. The hotel owner prepared dinner for us in advance (30 yuan per person, all vegetables from his own field and eggs from his own house). Such a great place to have such a great meal. It also greatly exceeded our expectations! It seems that it is not a problem to hike Montenegro tomorrow to watch the sunrise.
add location
In the early morning of August 10th, we walked to the top of Montenegro to watch the sunrise again. The magnificent Sunrise at Heishantou in Greater Khingan Mountains is a place of fascination for photography enthusiasts. On that day, the morning mist lightened, adding another mystery to the sunrise.
"The country is so beautiful that it attracts countless heroes to compete." With this moment in front of me, what else is worthless?
At the place where we took pictures of the sunrise, a group of "Pegasus" came and passed us leisurely.
At this time, there were only the two of us and a group of horses in the huge Hulun Buir Grassland. Even the Wrangler has gone?
After watching the sunrise, we bid farewell to Heishantou, took a taxi from the town (20 yuan per person) and returned to Ergun Passenger Station, and then traveled 110 kilometers (by taxi, 100 yuan per person) to the hometown of Genghis Khan -The Golden Horde Khan Tribe in Chenbaerhu Zuo Banner, Inner Mongolia (the birthplace of Temujin's gold family).
Golden Horde Khan (that is, Tian Khan) is a holy place for the Mongolian people to worship. From the end of the twelfth century to the beginning of the thirteenth century, Genghis Khan, a generation of Tianjiao, fought hard here, competing with various Mongolian tribes, and finally occupied the Hulunbeier grassland. Gradually completed the great cause of the unification of Mongolia, and from here began to conquer east and west, and established a Mongolian Yuan Empire that spanned the Eurasian continent. The Obo in the tribe entrusts the endless thoughts of the Mongolian nation (that is, the Great Khural), and it welcomes three worships and nine kowtows from a large number of worshippers every day.
Today, it has become a film and television city. It has received many big-name stars, and many grassland film and television dramas such as the large-scale series "Genghis Khan" and "Hanwu Emperor" have been filmed here. Tickets for the Golden Horde Khan Tribe are 20 yuan (65 years old are free). Accommodation: Dahan Mongolian yurt 499 yuan / room, extras 348 yuan / standard room, it seems that the price is not cheap. In fact, I found out later that it is not expensive at all compared to staying anywhere in Hailar!
There is also the Moergele River, which is "the most curved water in the world, with nine bends and eighteen bends" written by the writer Lao She. However, due to the falling water table, there is not much water in the river today, making it lose its former beauty. It also made us give up the plan to shoot "Qushui Sunset" here.
Afterwards, we took a taxi (50 yuan per person) back to Hailaer and transferred to the Hulunbuir South Line. We planned to go to Hulun Lake to watch the sunset and sunrise, then go to Manzhouli, and finally return from Aershan. After many twists and turns, we came to a small town named Zhalai Nuoerxi (about 30 kilometers away from Hulun Lake, about 25 kilometers away from Manzhouli, and the locals live in the town of Tashi). Live in a hotel called Jinshang. Doubts also start here!
Originally thought that it was a small town with residents, and there were no scenic spots around, and the accommodation would be very cheap, but the price was 320 yuan per double room (the so-called hotel: the air conditioner at the head of the bed leaked and the sheets and pillows were soaked, and the floor drain in the bathroom It doesn't work, and the shower head can't hang) The price was shocking. Because of the rain the next day, Hulun Lake could not go. Can only stay one night in the town. Seeing that there are many vacant rooms in the hotel and almost no passengers, it should be cheaper to continue staying. Unexpectedly, the asking price has risen to 460 yuan. Ask the reason? The answer is also: "Today is the price agreed by the alliance" (the woman at the front desk looks indifferent to the tourists, as if she can't see what she should do for the tourists except for collecting money from the tourists). We saw the subtitles on the door of another hotel (standard rooms starting at 488 yuan) next to the town’s train station read, “Everyone raise your glass high and celebrate our glory unanimously.” What alliance? What glory? What are you celebrating? What are the local tourism, commodity prices, and industry and commerce doing?
On that day, we wandered around the town and its farmer's market, and witnessed the consumption status of the town's residents. For this small town with few tourists, how can there be such a high-priced accommodation? We are full of questions.
Manchuria
On August 11th, we took Tashi bus No. 1 from the front of the hotel and got off at the North Market Station in Manzhouli, then transferred to Manzhouli Bus No. 6 at the same station, and got off at Guomen Station in Manzhouli (the consumption here is very low, the whole journey is 33 kilometers On the way, only 2 yuan per person). After a 2-hour journey, you will come to the National Gate Scenic Spot in Manzhouli.
To say that Harbin is full of Russian style. Well, Manzhouli is like Russia. This is not an exaggeration. Here, there are Russian-style buildings everywhere, such as Russian circus, Russian birch singing and dancing, Russian big Liba, Russian red sausage, Russian vodka, Russian dolls, Russian leather goods, knives and so on. Even the streets are full of potbellied Russians and Russian beauties walking around.
Manzhouli National Gate No. 41 boundary marker, under the clouds in front is Russia.
The Middle East Railway originally built by Tsarist Russia. Now, one train spans the two countries. History is always unfolding.
A corner outside Manzhouli Matryoshka Square
A corner outside Manzhouli Matryoshka Square
Matryoshka Square - the original free public square. Now, it costs 80 oceans to go in and have a look, and 230 oceans to watch a circus. Forget it, just take a look at the exterior! This is the corner of Matryoshka Square we saw from the crack of the door.
A corner of Matryoshka Square we saw from the crack of the door.
A scene outside Matryoshka Square.
A scene outside Matryoshka Square.
A scene outside Matryoshka Square.
We returned to Tashi from Matryoshka Square in Manzhouli, and then went to the famous Mammoth Park in Manzhouli. This is the museum in Mammoth Park and it was closed on the day we arrived.
Manzhouli Mammoth Park - the only place in China where mammoth fossils have been unearthed.
Hailar Chapter
At noon on August 11, we took the train from Manzhouli to Hailar (4188 times/9.32-11.46/21.5 yuan) and then went to Ruomenhan Battle Memorial Park. Only when I got there did I know that the real battle of Ruomenhan was still more than 190 kilometers away. It was originally a defensive fortress of the Japanese Kwantung Army (broken by the Soviet Red Army in 1945). For the convenience of tourists, the Ruomenhan Battle Memorial Park has also been moved here, and collectively referred to as the "World Anti-Fascist War Hailar Battle Memorial Park". Tickets are 40 yuan, and half tickets for 65 years old. It is only about 4 kilometers away from the urban area. There is no docking bus, so you can only take a taxi.
I mentioned accommodation in Hulunbuir earlier, let’s talk about taking a taxi in Hulunbuir:
The local economic level is obviously not high, but the price of taxis is ridiculously high. The asking price for a few kilometers can be more than a dozen or tens of yuan per person, and 200 yuan or more per person for a hundred kilometers. According to the asking price: a 5-seater car takes 4 people to run 100 kilometers (about 90 minutes), and you can earn 800 yuan. In comparison: in any popular area in the west, if you charter a car for a whole day during the peak tourist season, the driver will run about 300 kilometers, and the price is only 500 yuan.
We negotiated with a taxi driver in front of the Erguna Passenger Terminal about the taxi price to the Golden Horde Tribe (about 110 kilometers). This person offered 220 yuan per person, and said that there was no discussion. He also said arrogantly and ignorantly: If you are not afraid of spending money, go with the tour group, don't come out to play by yourself. When we said to him: with a travel agency to manage food, housing, and transportation for 300 kilometers a day, the maximum is more than 100 yuan per person. It costs more than 200 yuan per person to take your car for 110 kilometers. How to explain? The man was speechless. When we also said: the management of the local taxi industry is backward, and the thinking of practitioners is even more backward. Only after falling behind to a certain extent can there be such a high taxi price. This person was even more speechless.
We took a taxi from the Golden Horde Tribe to Hailaer Railway Station (less than 30 kilometers, and took a taxi driven by a woman). She asked for 100 yuan per person, and said that she would take passengers on the way. We returned the price to 50 yuan per person. She checked that there were no other passengers nearby before reluctantly driving on the road. Since we failed to bring the passenger along the way, we actually asked us to take her to pay a toll of 15 yuan, which was even more bizarre.
Probably few people know that more than 70 years ago, two wars between foreign troops and foreign troops took place here (on the Hulun Buir Grassland in China).
The first war took place from May to September 1939. That is, the battle of Ruomenhan between Japan and the Soviet Union. The battle lasted 135 days, and the two sides invested a total of more than 200,000 troops. The Supreme Commander of the Soviet Army was Zhukov, and the Supreme Commander of the Japanese Army was Kaneyoshi Ueda, Commander-in-Chief of the Kwantung Army. All the most advanced weapons were invested in the battle (it is said that the Soviet army alone invested more than 1,000 sorties), and the troops participating in the battle also sent their own elite. In the early stage of the battle, the Japanese army had a slight upper hand. Since then, the Japanese army suffered heavy losses. A total of more than 40,000 people (also said to be more than 60,000 people) were killed on both sides, of which the Japanese army killed the majority. Since then, both sides have no intention of fighting again. The war was not over until the signing of the Japan-Soviet Peace Treaty in 1941.
The second war broke out in August 1945. That is, the Soviet Union's Northeast China Liberation War against Japan. At that time, the Soviet army invested more than 1.5 million fully mechanized troops to launch a full-scale offensive against the Japanese army on the thousands of kilometers of Sino-Soviet border (the Battle of Hailar was one of them). It defeated the Japanese Kwantung Army, which was known as a million at the time, and destroyed the Japanese fortress defense line known as the Eastern Maqiruo.
There are still some weapons and war simulation scenes used by the Soviet army in the memorial garden. Tourists can see some images and real objects in the Japanese underground fortress to understand the war process of that year. At this time, standing in this former battlefield of gunpowder and listening to the sound of gunfire and fighting in the distance, everything seems to tell us that history cannot be forgotten! Remember, Chinese people should be self-improving, and the great rejuvenation of the Chinese nation can only rely on our own hard work and self-improvement!
Re-entry to Harbin
That night, we took the train K7058 from Hailar (22.58-09.23, we stayed on the train that night). Return to Harbin on the morning of the 13th. Take bus No. 118 from Harbin Station, pass 4 stops, get off at the Flood Control Memorial Tower Station, and then take the ferry to Sun Island from the cruise ship terminal (20 yuan for a round trip). After entering the south gate of Sun Island Park Scenic Area, we walked northward for about 25 minutes and came to the famous Sun Island Swan Lake. Tickets for Sun Island are 40 yuan, 65 years old are free of charge, and Swan Lake does not charge tickets.
Songhua River to the cruise ship terminal of Sun Island. This is our second time here. The last time was at night, this time it was during the day, and I felt differently both times.
There are many swans in Swan Lake on Sun Island, but they lack wildness and aura.
We returned to the Flood Control Memorial Tower from Sun Island Swan Lake, then took bus No. 8 and got off at Sophia Square Station. Later, when I was shopping in Xinbai Nei, Harbin, I came across a chain fast food restaurant called "Northeast Steamed", which costs 18 yuan per person (three dishes and one soup, mainly for the employees in the mall). Northeast flavor is also our hometown flavor, and we are satisfied with what we eat. After dinner, we took a short break, and we went to see the night view of Sophia Church.
At night, the Sophia Church is brightly lit, magnificent and full of tourists. The Sophia Church was built in 1903 AD. It is exquisite and is a perfect combination of typical Baroque architectural style and Eastern Roman art. It constitutes the unique exotic and urban style of Harbin, and at the same time, it is the historical witness of Tsarist Russia's invasion and colonization of Northeast my country. At this moment, you look up at the beautiful church in front of you. It is not only a church, but also a city, and a piece of modern Chinese history.
Leaving the Sophia Church, we also ended our short trip to Harbin for the second time. That night, I took a train from Harbin East Station to Shanhaiguan (K296/19.56-08.39/215 yuan) and stayed on the train.
Shanhaiguan. Beidaihe Chapter
On the morning of August 13th, the train arrived at Shanhaiguan. We got off the train and went straight to Shanhaiguan Guancheng (take No. 25 at the square in front of the station, get off at Tianxiayiguan Station, and then walk to Guancheng). Shanhaiguan does not look as tall and magnificent as we originally imagined, and it feels much inferior to Jiayuguan. But it is this pass city in front of you that once made many powerful people outside the pass sigh and hesitate.
In 1664, Dorgon, the regent of the Qing Dynasty, led the Qing army and Wu Sangui, the commander-in-chief of Shanhaiguan in the late Ming Dynasty, to defeat Li Zicheng's Dashun army and enter the pass. No one has ever rebuilt this pass city. The reason is simple, the Great Wall is thousands of miles long, and the hometowns on both sides of the Great Wall. My Chinese farming people and nomadic peoples have been separated by this Guancheng for thousands of years. Instead of being separated by it, they recognize and depend on each other and constitute our Greater China today; the era of cold weapons is over. In the face of modern artillery fire, this pass city has completely lost its military value. After the founding of New China, the Shanhaiguan Pass City was continuously repaired and maintained. Now, its function is not for war defense but for tourists to visit and watch. The Pass City we see is like a super small commodity market.
The old leader of Shanhaiguan, the Great Wall built from the mountains to the sea. How amazing is my Chinese ancestor!
In the afternoon, we took bus No. 25 from the exit of Laolongtou Scenic Spot in Shanhaiguan, 27 stops, got off at Qinhuangdao Sidaoqiao Station, transferred to No. 34 at the same station, 21 stops, and got off at Liuzhuang Station. The whole journey is 40 kilometers. Only 2 yuan (the bus in Qinhuangdao City is really cheap, and now Shanhaiguan, Beidaihe, etc. are all districts and counties under the jurisdiction of Qinhuangdao City). Afterwards, we found accommodation on Hongshi Road, 300 meters east of Liuzhuang Bus Station (a homestay, 150 yuan for a triple room, no breakfast). In the evening, we came to the famous Beidaihe Laohushi Park to watch the sunset. Park tickets are 12 yuan. 60 years old free of charge.
In summer, Beidaihe is like a large bathing place. The streets and alleys are full of men, women and children wearing red, willow and green pants, vests, slippers, and swimming rings. People flock to the sea to "drink dumplings".
Restricted by geographical conditions, Beidaihe seaside cannot see the real sea sunset. The scenery in front of me is not bad.
In the early morning of August 14th, we were going to watch the sunrise at the famous Pigeon Nest Park in Beidaihe. Due to the impact of Typhoon No. A good place for the sea). We turned to walk to the Beidaihe Wetland Park Bird Watching Plank Road next to Pigeon Nest Park to watch and shoot birds.
At this time, it is not the season of bird migration, there are only a few stranded (smaller) gulls here, and the scene does not look so spectacular.
end
Watching the sunrise in the Bohai Bay is the last goal of this trip. We have long wanted this, and we are looking forward to a wonderful ending. But the weather was not beautiful, and it rained cats and dogs for two consecutive days. We can't go anywhere, so we can only wait helplessly in the inn. In the early morning of August 16, the sky finally cleared up. Late that night, we learned from the local weather forecast that Pigeon Nest Park was still closed (the Beidaihe Meteorological Department has sunrise forecasts and opening information for major seaside parks at midnight every day). So much, we decided to go to the beach to find a place where we can see the sun rising, whether or not, we have to return today.
Travel is like this, as long as you go out firmly, there will be unexpected waiting for you. Not far from the inn, we met a taxi head-on. The driver told us that only Biluota Park in Beidaihe is open today, which is also a good place to watch the sunrise. 25 yuan per person (including tickets to Biluota Park), the taxi took us to a police office to complete the formalities, and then sent us to the entrance of Bitahai Park. It can be said that hard work pays off, and it takes no effort to find it!
It used to be the place where Chairman Mao often watched the sunrise. A round of red sun rises slowly from the sea, stormy waves hit the shore, people are in the painting, and the sea is reflected red. Here, we saw a real sea sunrise.
"Facing Jieshi in the east, you can see the sea, the autumn wind is bleak, and the waves are surging. The old man is standing on the ground, and his ambition is a thousand miles away." At that time, Cao Cao marched north to the west of Liaoning, defeated Wu Heng and returned to his army. Passing Jieshi Mountain (now sunk into the sea), looking at the Taotao Bohai Sea, expressing the famous "Guan Canghai". It has been recited through the ages.
"It's raining heavily, the white waves are raging, and fishing boats outside Qinhuangdao can't see a vast ocean. Who do you know? In those days, Mao Zedong's well-known song "Beidaihe. Waves Washing the Sand" also came from here.
Now, the great man is gone. The wind in Beidaihe is still very strong, and the waves in Bohai Bay are still not small.
After watching the sunrise in Beidaihe, we will end the entire itinerary in the Northeast. At noon that day, we (because we couldn't buy a direct return train) took the return trip to Beijing. The hasty trip to the northeast, because the traffic and accommodation status in some places exceeded our imagination and we could not buy the trains we wanted, wasted too much time, and even rubbed shoulders with Hulun Lake, Aershan and other pleasant places And pass.
I have always wanted to go to the Northeast because my middle school teacher told me about geography: "The train goes to Manchuria, and then you will arrive at the Soviet Union." Later, I learned about the "September 18th Incident" and the Battle of Ruomenhan from books; my country has two Tianchi Lakes, one in Changbai Mountain and the other in Tianshan Mountain, etc. At this point, I have the urge to go to the Northeast to see. Today, it is a bit of a pity that the longing has been realized, but it is still worth it! (End) Jinling Lesou
