[Southern Xinjiang with a collection of humanities, strong customs and stunning scenery]
It is said that "Northern Xinjiang sees landscapes, and southern Xinjiang sees humanities." In fact, Southern Xinjiang not only has a thousand-year-old civilization, countless old cities and countries, strong western customs and profound cultural heritage. At the same time, southern Xinjiang also has diverse geographical scenes that can be presented from the vast plateau oasis to the vast Gobi desert. There are golden and charming Populus euphratica forests in the Tarim (the largest in the world), the mysterious Tianshan Grand Canyon in Kuqa, the towering snow-capped mountains and blue lakes of Pamir, and the Karakoram Highway comparable to the Duku Highway. When you really walk into southern Xinjiang, you will find that this is a magical land full of charm everywhere!
The many humanities and beautiful scenery in southern Xinjiang are enough to dazzle you. It is impossible for you to see all of her in a hasty trip to southern Xinjiang. To this end, we followed the seasonal suitability and the way of transportation, and chose Kuqa, Kashgar and some parts of the Pamirs, which are representative of southern Xinjiang, as the focus of our trip. We look forward to a wonderful harvest in the short trip to southern Xinjiang !
"Part III: Southern Xinjiang" itinerary and destination
June 7: Kuqa Palace, Kuqa Great Temple, Kuqa Old Town (stay in Kuqa)
June 8: Kuqa Kucha Cultural Square, Kucha Ancient City, Duku Highway, Kuqa Grand Canyon, Tianshan Stone Forest, etc. → Kashgar (on the train)
June 9: Kashgar Fragrant Concubine's Tomb, East District of Kashgar Ancient City (Kashgar)
June 10: Kashgar → Pamir Baisha Lake, Muztagh Peak. Karakul Lake (herdsman's house by Suku Lake)
June 11: Pamir Muztagh Peak. Karakul Lake → Kashgar (Sustained in Kashgar)
June 12: Kashgar→Id Kah Mosque→West District of Kashgar Old Town (Sustain in Kashgar)
June 13: Downtown Kashgar→Kashgar Airport→airplane overlooking Tianshan Mountain→Beijing Airport (transfer)→Nanjing Lukou Airport
[The Homeland of Kucha - Kuqa] Strong ethnic customs
One of the most charming cities in southern Xinjiang, Kuqa County (the territory of the ancient Qiuci State), is located at the hub of the Silk Road and now belongs to the Aksu region of Xinjiang. In the Han Dynasty, Qiuci was a big country among the thirty-six countries in the Western Regions. Afterwards, from time to time, the Kucha Kingdom has always been one of the influential kingdoms in the southern part of the Tianshan Mountains. When its power was at its peak, it reached as far as Shache (Hotian) and Shule (Kashgar) in southern Xinjiang. As early as the second year of Han Shenjue (60 BC), since the Western Han Dynasty opened up the Western Regions, it set up the Protectorate of the Western Regions here; In Qiuci, this place was under the jurisdiction of the Central Plains Dynasty; during the Tang Gaozong period, Qiuci was changed to Anxi Dufu, and the famous general Gao Xianzhi of the Tang Dynasty guarded and ruled the countries in the Western Regions here. After that, Qiuci and other territories were gradually included in the territory of the Central Plains. During the Qianlong period, it was officially named Kuqa.
Kuqa has history, stories, and scenery. In the urban area, there are mainly Kuqa Temple, Kuqa Palace, Kuqa Old Town and other landscapes. The surrounding area is Kizil Thousand Buddha Caves and Kizil Temple, which are included in the World Cultural Heritage List. There are many historical relics such as Seoul Beacon Tower and Subash Ancient City. But the most eye-catching ones are the Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon about 80 kilometers north of Kuqa, the Tarim Populus euphratica forest about 150 kilometers southeast of Kuqa, and the Kezi 75 kilometers west of Kuqa (350 years earlier than Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes). Erqian Buddha Cave (built in the third century AD, created by the eminent monk Kumoroz in the Western Regions).
According to the scheduled itinerary, we only have two days in Kuqa. (Tarim Populus euphratica forest is not the viewing season). Kuqa Old Town, Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon, and Kizil Thousand Buddha Caves are the focus of our trip. If you have more time, visit Kizil along the way. Beacons and the ancient city of Subash. As it turned out afterwards, our plan could not be accomplished at all!
In the early morning of June 7, we took train 7557 (hard sleeper 52 yuan) from Korla to Kuqa. Since the day coincided with the college entrance examination, the buses in the whole county were called to pick up and drop off the college entrance examination students. We took a taxi for 10 yuan per person to the urban area, and stayed at the Jindu Hotel next to the Kuqa Coach Station (130 yuan/standard room booked on Ctrip). Then walked to the coach station, ready to take the shuttle bus to the Kuqa Grand Canyon (before, it was said on the Internet that there are many buses going to or passing the Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon every day), but when we came to the passenger station, we were told that there is no At 4:50, there is a shuttle bus to Dongfeng Coal Mine (it can stop at the Grand Canyon), and there are no other shuttle buses (it seems that the information on the Internet is not reliable). For this reason, we immediately adjusted the itinerary and decided to visit the scenic spots in the city first.
Travel is like this, there are many things you can't think of, because all the buses in Kuche were called that day, there are almost no taxis on the street (supply exceeds demand). We walked all the way, hailed taxis all the way, and it was less than 5 kilometers away to Kuqa Palace. We were delayed all the way, and it took about two hours to arrive.
The Kuqa Palace was built in 1759 by Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, who specially dispatched inland craftsmen to commend the local Uyghur leaders for helping to quell the chaos in Xinjiang. Due to disrepair for a long time, at the beginning of liberation, only some houses and walls remained in the original Kuqa Palace. In 2004, the Kuqa County Government invested 15 million yuan to rebuild the Kuqa Palace on the original site according to the memories of the last Kuqa prince, Dawuti Maihesuti, and reopened it to the public in 2006. The Kuqa Palace is now an AAAA-level scenic spot, the ticket is 40 yuan per person, half-ticket for 60-year-olds. Due to time constraints, we did not enter the tour.
The distance between Kuqa Palace, Kuqa Old Town and Kuqa Great Temple is within 2 kilometers. There was no bus and no taxis on that day, so we had to walk around. After a brief visit in front of the Kuqa Palace, we walked all the way to the famous Kuqa Old Town. This is an important stop on our trip to Kuqa.
(The picture above is the unrenovated old city of Kuqa from the Internet) The old city has a history of more than two thousand years, and the core of the old city of Kuqa is her residential style and western customs. After many dynasties, until the early days of liberation, wars, floods and population growth, the old city's proper living functions have declined, and the houses and streets appear old and dilapidated. After the reform and opening up, the renovated old city of Kuqa not only preserved the rich historical and cultural relics and unique original architectural features, but also formed a Kuqa folk custom tourism circular area supported by Restan Folk Custom Street. , has become a tourist card in southern Xinjiang. In March 2012, Kuqa was named a national historical and cultural city.
Kuqa Old Town has a long history. In the Western Han Dynasty, it was the capital of the Kingdom of Kucha, and it was called "Yancheng" in history books. After repeated wars and disasters, it was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, a square inner city was built in the northwest corner of the original city, and the original city was used as the outer wall to form "six points on Thursday, three sides in the southeast and north, a circle in the southeast, a square in the west, and a high The strong city wall of "one foot and nine feet" is the original shape of the old city we see today. As the old city of Kuqa is located at the hub of the Silk Road, it is still an important commodity market and trade distribution center for cotton, wood, shoes and hats, clothing, carpets, etc. in southern Xinjiang. From the Republic of China to the early days of the founding of the People's Republic of China, it has always been the political, economic and cultural center of Kuqa.
The old city in front of us is the old city after the Kuqa county government invested huge sums of money in recent years. It is said that the renovation design was planned and designed by the Institute of Architectural Heritage of Tsinghua University, and it has also received financial support from some developed provinces. Through the repair and reinforcement of the old city, power supply, water and water renovation, road renovation and laying, street renovation and greening, etc. It not only continues the architectural life of the old city, maintains the original national architectural style of the old city, but also endows the old city with new tourism and commercial functions, revitalizes the old buildings and increases the attraction of folk culture in the old city.
You walk in the beautiful streets of the old city, everywhere is full of strong ethnic customs, and there are old houses with a history of at least a hundred years. From the perspective of architectural style, they are the fusion of Chinese civilization and Western Kucha culture. product. The doors, windows and corridors can best reflect the national style here. It is said that no two doors and windows here have the same style and color.
The most beautiful scenery in the old city is of course the people who live here. They stick to the tradition, are quiet and peaceful, and live and multiply in this piece of land that belongs to them for generations. Now, the progress of the times has given them new opportunities. In the old city that still maintains the original scenery and style, classic and modern blend, people and the motherland develop together, and move towards a new height of a better life together!
It is said that every street and every house here has its own history and stories.
On the day we arrived, there were not many tourists in the old city, and it was peaceful and quiet, but it was not less than foreign tourists. This is enough to show that civilization and beauty belong not only to the nation and the country, but also to the world and all mankind! Here is the steamed roasted mutton bun, a special food in the old city. Foreigners are very interested in it, but we can’t eat it!
The old city is full of flowers, and the old city is full of amorous feelings. Some people compare it to Morocco's Casablanca, while others say it is Turkey's Ankara. We spent more than 3 hours in the old city, walking around and watching flowers all the way, without feeling tired at all.
The 81-year-old Uighur man is still sticking to his small business and is also willing to communicate with tourists. He told us that he has lived here since he was a child. Today, doing business is not for livelihood but for tradition. He has been to Tiananmen Square in Beijing! Although he did not meet Chairman Mao, he was very proud of it.
The old city of Kuqa, this well-preserved large-scale historical and cultural block full of Islamic style, has gone through more than 2,000 years of ups and downs, and has always kept watch over the years. Although it has been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt, it is still being continued. Today in the 21st century, she has a new vitality. People living in the old city are endowed with the package and comfort of modern material civilization while adhering to the tradition, and continue to enjoy the leisurely life of "generations in the human environment without the noise of cars and horses". It is peaceful, beautiful, and full of energy. As long as you have been here, you can deeply understand what is calm and tranquil! This is the old city of Kuqa we saw, an old city of Kuqa that is continuing to write the ancient Kucha culture and is full of youth!
Zhaohuli Temple is located by the Kuqa River in the old city of Kuqa. It is the heart of the old city and the spiritual home of the people in the old city.
The old city of Kuqa is now collectively referred to as the Kuqa Restan (meaning market, shopping mall) historical and cultural district, and we only visited a small part of her. It is said that every weekend, the square in front of you is very lively. People still drive horse-drawn carriages to do business here in the traditional way. Since our arrival coincided with the college entrance examination, in order to provide students with a quiet and good environment, all lively folk activities were suspended in the local area, and it seemed peaceful and peaceful here.
This is the famous National Unity Square in Kuqa. People in Xinjiang say: grapes from Turpan, pears from Korla, apples from Aksu, apricots from Kuqa, peaches from Ili River, and melons from Hami". Yuan only bought 2 catties of Kuqa small white apricots. The taste of cantaloupe is still the same. The apricots in Kuqa are not ordinary. Very small, since then, we have never been able to buy it.
The river in front of me is the famous Kuqa River (also known as the Chawu River). She originates from the southern Tianshan Mountains and is the mother river of Kuqa. . The book depicts Tang Seng, his master and his disciples, traveling through the Daughter Kingdom. Tang Seng was favored by the Queen of the Daughter Kingdom and the demon girl (Scorpion Spirit) at the same time, and was forced to be a husband by the demon woman. The queen was also moved by Tang Seng's determination to learn scriptures. Therefore, Tang Seng experienced another difficulty and continued to embark on the road of learning scriptures in the West.
This fairy tale sounds a bit poignant no matter how you say it. The legendary "Daughter Country" has only had females but no males in the past dynasties due to the reason of the son-mother river. Local girls never marry outsiders. Occasionally, a man enters the "daughter country" and only gives birth to girls after marriage. This has been the case for generations. Men are especially precious, especially handsome men like Tang Seng. Believe it or not, Mr. Wu Chengen can deduce a fairy tale from this.
The real Tang monk in history-the famous Tang monk Xuanzang did come to Kucha and taught scriptures here for three months (and another two months). According to the "Da Tang Western Regions" written by Xuanzang himself, there is an "Eastern Women's Kingdom" in the Western Regions. The book says that this kingdom "women are kings in the world, because women are called countries". According to textual research, this daughter country is located in Kuqa County, which is the ancient city of Subashi in the north of Kuqa County today. The book also describes the scene of the Kucha Kingdom at that time as "the decoration of Buddha statues, which is almost artificial. The Buddhist affairs are prosperous, the morning bells and evening drums, and the Sanskrit music sings loudly."
After visiting the old city of Kuqa, we walked all the way to the famous Kuqa Temple. Tickets for the great temple are 20 yuan, and we did not enter the tour due to time constraints.
The Kuqa Grand Mosque is the second largest mosque in Xinjiang after the Kashgar Id Kah Mosque. It was first built in the 15th century and burned down in 1918. The temple in front of it was rebuilt in 1923 and has a history of more than 90 years. up. The gate tower of the temple is 18.3 meters high, and the towering gate tower and minarets are solemn and straight. The pillars of the pagoda are carved with Islamic style patterns, and the main hall has a domed roof, which looks like a sky and can accommodate 3,000 people to worship. It is said that there is a prestigious religious court in the temple, which is the product of the unity of politics and religion, and it is also one of the few sites of Islamic patriarchal institutions preserved in Xinjiang.
It is not easy to say that Kuqa Xiaobai Xing is a delicious fresh fruit. Then, Kuqa’s mulberry fruit is another delicacy that is readily available. It is delicious and sweet, and it melts in the mouth. Any mulberry tree in Kuqa can bear black and white mulberries. Moreover, no matter you are in the streets or alleys or in front of or behind the house, you can pick them at will, no one will say no, no one will laugh at you!
We walked all the way in the old city of Kuqa, admiring the scenery of Kucha in the past. I also kept picking mulberries all the way, tasting the delicious specialties of Kuqa for free, and eating to my heart's content.
【Kuicha Square and Kucha Old City】History, present and past
On the morning of June 7, we walked about 2 kilometers from the hotel all the way to the famous Kuqa Kucha Cultural Square, which is a free public park square. Although there are not many things to watch, her sculptures and murals still have the ancient charm of Kucha.
Next to the square is a service station specially set up for college entrance examination students and their parents. It provides college entrance examination consultation and psychological counseling, and provides free tea. Parents who accompany the exam can rest and wait here. Children are the future of the motherland, and we are very moved by the local services that are so humane.
Coming out of the Kucha Cultural Square, we took a taxi to (the old city of Kucha with 5 stars in online reviews), because the driver parked at the wrong place to get off, we finally found it in a bush with the help of a Uighur child. The old city of Kucha. We originally thought that we could see the original scene of the ancient city of Kucha when we came here, but it was unexpected. It is not an ancient city at all, but only a few weathered rammed earth bags. Only when we came here did we know that calling it the ancient city of Kucha means that it was originally a corner of the city wall of the ancient city of Kucha, and it is also the only relic of the ancient old country of Kucha that can be found today.
The weathered rammed earth package is being protected and reinforced here. The construction workers told us that a cultural park of the old country of Kucha will be built here. Her future appearance must be completely different from what we see today.
[Take the Duku Highway again] Go to a visual feast
From the old city of Kucha, we will hire a taxi for 350 yuan. According to the scheduled itinerary, take the Duku Highway and enjoy the scenery all the way, from here to the long-awaited Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon, and plan to return to the Kizil Thousand Buddha Caves by detour. and the old city of Subash.
At about 10:00 in the morning, our car drove out of the urban area of Kuqa, passed the (often heavily congested) Shuiyangou Tunnel and embarked on the Duku Highway. Although we have had the wonderful experience of crossing Gongnais in Duku last time and encountering a glacier unexpectedly, we still have a long-lost feeling when we take the Duku Highway again. Since the southern section of the Duku Highway has a completely different scenery from the Gongnaisi River Valley section we traveled before, we are also looking forward to it.
From Kuqa County to the Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon, it is about 80 highways. The landforms along the way are mainly Gobi wasteland, Yadan Danxia and Tianshan Stone Forest. Red cliff) geological structure, the scene is very wild, strange and colorful. In this regard, many netizens described that walking on it is like a visual feast. We started our trip here many years ago, and today, we finally have the opportunity to experience this long-lost hope!
The southern section of the Duku Highway is now known as the Tianshan Scenic Road. Each section has different image marks for different scenery and features, such as the Potala Palace, Guanlei, Castle, Tianshan Stone Forest, Mysterious Grand Canyon, Tiere Daban, Big and small dragon pools and so on. The whole journey is 230 kilometers, and the speed limit is 40 kilometers per hour. It can be said that driving on it is not in a hurry or slow, and you can drive all the way and watch the scenery all the way.
Our car went all the way north along the Kuqa River, and there was almost no green in front of our eyes. What we saw was the deserted Gobi desert and the rolling mountains with bare rocks. Occasionally, camels could be seen passing by the car window like a "desert boat". Here is almost a "sea of desert", presenting a primitive scene that spans time and space and remains unchanged from ancient times.
In front of you, you enter the typical Yardang landform of Duku Highway (pictured above). This kind of landform exists widely in the northwest of my country, mainly in the Lop Nur area (Dunhuang Sanlongdui Yadan is the most famous) and northern Xinjiang (the devil city Yadan in Karamay is the most spectacular). According to geology, this landform is formed because the crust is squeezed by different continental plates (the Asian continental plate and the South Asian subcontinental plate). The result of constant weathering.
Continue to the north, and enter a typical Danxia landform. This is the tens of thousands of years of cutting and carving by wind and water at the southern foot of Tianshan Mountain, forming the rich and peculiar shape of the mountain in front of us, and the color of the mountain is changeable (due to the different minerals contained in it), which is light yellow, earthy yellow, earthy red, and ocher. The ever-changing Danxia landscape of red and other colors. In this regard, you have to feel the uncanny craftsmanship of nature.
In front of you (pictured above) is the famous Tianshan stone forest geological scene in the southern section of the Duku Highway. Under the blue sky and white clouds, its scenery is very eye-catching. Only when I came here did I realize that it is actually the outer edge of the Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon. To be precise, the Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon is a huge crack in this section of Danxia Mountain.
[Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon] Walk into the burning flame
When you see the Tianshan Stone Forest, you will arrive at the Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon. Many years ago, we learned about this place from the Internet, wanted to come here, and kept making preparations for our itinerary here. After many years, I finally stood here today. Since I saw it for the first time (Niutou Mountain, Liren Mountain and Moon Gorge at the entrance of the canyon), its majestic magnificence and visual impact have been deeply implanted in my memory! In this regard, I feel that the scene in front of me is both familiar and familiar, but also strange and novel!
Kuche Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon was first called Kuqa Grand Canyon. In order to increase its momentum, the name keeps changing. Now it is called Kuqa Mysterious Grand Canyon National Geopark. Some people say that its canyon is not so mysterious, but it is more appropriate to say that it is a wonder of the cracks in Tianshan Mountains. Its biggest attraction is that the canyon is winding and secluded, with unique caves, various lines, fantastic red colors, infinite changes in light and shadow, and the red mountain is like a burning flame under the sunlight. A Tang Dynasty grotto was discovered on the cliff 1.4 kilometers away from the mouth of the valley. There are murals and Chinese characters in the cave, which adds a mysterious color to the Grand Canyon. This is probably why it is called the mysterious Grand Canyon.
The Grand Canyon has been developed to a depth of about 5.5 kilometers, with a gravel road paved for 4 kilometers. There are no vehicles in the canyon, and the tour is all on foot. Tickets are 40 yuan, students and 60-year-old half-ticket. We are a little surprised that such a place that makes people miss each other only charges 20 yuan per person. To visit the Kuqa Grand Canyon, you should choose sunny days with little cloud. At noon every day, the sun shines through the cracks in the canyon and penetrates into the valley. The scenery at this time is the most shocking. sub shoot "Family Portrait").
Both Kuqa Grand Canyon and Wensu Grand Canyon are known as representatives of Danxia landform in Xinjiang. They are formed by hundreds of millions of years of wind and rain erosion and mountain torrents. They are rare arid natural scenic spots in my country. It is composed of a series of huge red mountain groups on the southern slope of Tianshan Mountain. Under the blue sky and white clouds, walking in it is like a wonderland on earth.
The Grand Canyon is a winding and narrow valley more than 5,000 meters long, known as Shili Gallery. Hundreds of millions of years of orogeny, wind and rain erosion and mountain torrent erosion have created the unique charm of the Kuqa Grand Canyon. Its average altitude is 1600 meters, and the highest peak in the canyon is 2048 meters above sea level. The valley road is winding and winding, with strange peaks and rocks, and a myriad of scenes. The Grand Canyon currently has 42 named scenic spots, named AAAA-level scenic spots, and is applying for world natural and cultural heritage.
The stone walls on both sides of the Grand Canyon are concave and convex, just like the graceful figure of a woman. The sunlight is projected into the canyon, and as the light changes, the colors on the rocks change endlessly, showing the magic of nature. No matter where you stand in the canyon, as long as you turn your body 360 degrees, you can take pictures with different pictures and different light and shadow.
This is the place where the Tang Dynasty grottoes and murals were discovered. When we arrived, the grottoes were being closed for renovation, and a Buddhist niche was placed in front of us for people to watch.
There are many foreign tourists in the Grand Canyon, just like a famous saying: "Beautiful scenery knows no borders, beauty knows no country, beauty knows no nationality and religion"!
In the Grand Canyon, people who come and go are all shocked by the scene in front of them, and they all linger over it, vying to record this beautiful moment!
The Grand Canyon runs east-west, and each representative scene has its own image title. From the entrance of the Grand Canyon, they are: Nantianmen, Ghost Valley, Crescent Gorge, Huya Bridge, Motian Cave, Xiongshilei and other landscapes. Natural and vivid, lifelike in shape, integrating heroism, danger, seclusion, tranquility and spirit, you will be amazed when you are in it! We walked here non-stop for more than 3 hours and witnessed its majesty and magnificence!
The beautiful scenery, beautiful people, and uninvited beauties have added a touch of beauty to the Grand Canyon!
At this time, we returned to the entrance of the Grand Canyon, turned around again to look back at its magnificence, and recorded its picturesqueness with our eyes. It is dreamlike, lifelike, and full of charm. It makes people suddenly sigh with wonder and praise the uncanny workmanship of nature! The landscape in front of you (at the entrance of Liren Mountain) is the most breathtaking. Under the sunshine, looking around, the mountains are bright red and the lines are graceful and unrestrained. It is not the Flaming Mountains, which is better than the strange feeling of the Flaming Mountains!
Goodbye, the mysterious Kuqa Grand Canyon! We came all the way looking for you, walked into your flame-like enthusiasm, and left you with beauty and joy!
Coming out of the Grand Canyon, the weather was suddenly covered with dark clouds, thunder rumbled, and the land was vast. Our car was driving along the Kuqa River next to the highway, and the scene at this time changed from the previous bright red and warm, as if returning to the Western Region that spans time and space! Not far behind this mountain is the famous ruins of the ancient city of Subashi. It is the "Eastern Women's Country" actually recorded in Tang Xuanzang's "Da Tang Western Regions", and it is also the "Daughter's Country" described in the mythical story "Journey to the West"; This river is the "Zimu River" written by Mr. Wu Chengen. She interprets the myth of giving birth to a girl but not a boy. Everything in front of me makes people seem to have returned to the ancient country of Kucha, where "a painting with blue streaks of paint, rocks and sand flooding the beach and traces of desolation, singing Sanskrit music through the ages, and only Hu Xuan dancing in the sky", gives people infinite reverie!
Still the same sentence, there are gains and losses in travel, not only do your homework well, but also good luck. At this time, it was raining heavily, and the toll station of Kuqa Saltwater Ditch was in front of us. The gateway of the Duku Highway entering Kuqa is also a famous landmark. We encountered a heavy traffic jam for more than two hours here, and our original plan to go to the Kizil Thousand Buddha Caves was stranded, and we also passed by the ancient city of Subashi!
In the twilight, the Yadan landform under the Tianshan Mountains reappeared. Throughout the ages, on this road in front of you, every resounding figure seems to be walking towards you from the depths of history! Envoys from Adriatic, such as Zhang Qiantong, Banchaoding, Gaoxianzhi, Xuanzang, and Marco Polo, crossed the Western Regions. They traveled across the Western Regions either to convey human civilization and cultural exchanges, or to communicate and share wealth. On this ancient silk road. Some people fight for it all their lives! Contribute for life! Others are just for plunder!
In the long river of history, how many soldiers of the Western Expedition have bid farewell to their wives, children, and parents for the sake of the unification of the motherland and the rise and fall of the country, and went west along this old road, spilling blood on the battlefield! Once gone, how many business travelers are walking on the ancient silk road in front of them, stepping on the long yellow sand of the Gobi! Their distant figures and footsteps seem to be telling people the ancient thickness of this land! This is the southern border of the Western Regions, the hometown of Kucha in our impression!
Goodbye, Kuqa! Goodbye, Guguizi! We are here for you, the journey is wonderful, we have seen it before! Looking forward to the distance, the most beautiful scenery is on the road, and the excitement is in the present. So far, we have ended our two-day trip to Kuqa. That night, I left Kuqa for Kashgar by train (T9527, hard sleeper 172 yuan).
【Tomb of Fragrant Concubine】The Story of a Fragrant Girl
In the early morning of June 8, the train arrived in Kashgar. We took bus No. 28 from the station, 1 yuan per person, 16 stops, got off at Kashgar Daxin Department Store Station, and walked north along Kashgar Laining Road for about 600 meters. It takes 40 minutes to arrive at Home Inn (Leining City Store) on the west side of Kashgar Old Town (booked by Ctrip, 136 yuan/standard room). After that, after a short rest, we returned to the bus station of Daxin Department Store, took bus No. 28, about 45 minutes, and arrived at the first stop of this trip in Kashgar, the famous Xiangfei Cemetery. Tickets for Xiangfei Tomb are 40 yuan, half price for 60-year-olds.
According to legend, among the many concubines of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, there was a Uighur woman named Ipal Khan, who was called "Xiangfei" because of her innate fragrance of sandy dates. After the death of Concubine Xiang, she was sent back to her hometown of Kashgar from the capital and buried in the family Apahoga cemetery. Therefore, people call this mausoleum "Xiangfei Tomb".
There are many versions of folk legends about the concubine Xiang. Whether the concubine Xiang is full of fragrance is not verified. One legend is that shortly after being selected into the palace, Concubine Xiang died because she missed her hometown and refused to accept the water and soil of the capital. Legend has it that Emperor Qianlong ordered his sister-in-law Su Dexiang to be in charge of guarding the corpse, and appointed 124 people to carry the coffin of Concubine Xiang, and it took three years before returning home for burial. It is also said that it took Xiangfei's elder brother three and a half years to bring back some of her relics from Beijing, and the Xiangfei cemetery is just a tomb of her clothes.
Another more reliable legend is that Xiangfei's uncle and elder brother were named Fuguogong for their contribution to helping the Qing government put down the "Hezhuo Rebellion" in Xinjiang. Concubine Xiang accompanied her elder brother to live in Beijing. Because of her beauty, she was called as a concubine, and was deeply loved by Emperor Qianlong. She lived with Emperor Qianlong in the palace for 28 years. Inside the concubine garden mausoleum. According to Qing history records, Emperor Qianlong did have the only Uyghur concubine who was conferred the title of Concubine Rong. Her real name was Maimure Aizimu. Uighur, meaning "fragrant girl").
In fact, it is not surprising that the emperors of the past dynasties married a woman from a minority as a concubine. What is amazing is that more than a hundred years after the death of Concubine Rong, they have deduced a series of "Xiangfei" stories that have been joked about. Among them, "Qianlong and Xiangfei" The Story of Xiang Fei in "My Fair Princess" and "Huan Zhu Ge Ge" are representative works, and some people even fabricated funny stories about Xiang Fei and her lover who eloped out of the palace and died in love, and Taoranting in Beijing was the place where Xiang Fei was buried. hype. Regardless of the historical facts or the hype, the Fragrant Concubine Cemetery is now a popular attraction for tourists in Kashgar.
The Fragrant Concubine Cemetery is located in Haohan Village, about 5 kilometers east of Kashgar City, and is a key cultural relic protection unit in the Xinjiang Autonomous Region. This is a typical Islamic ancient building complex and also the mausoleum of the Apakho family, the holy descendant of Islam, covering an area of 2 hectares. It was built in 1640. It is said that there are 72 people from five generations of the family buried in the tomb (actually there are only 58 tombs in size). People also call this mausoleum "Apak Hoja Cemetery".
The Fragrant Concubine Cemetery is very large and beautiful, and the garden is full of fruit trees. Although the grapes are not yet ripe, a kind of yellow apricot and black and white mulberries are at the right time, and you can pick them at will (no one will say no to free fruit tasting in Xinjiang). While feeling the beauty and holiness, I also experienced the high temperature and heat in early summer in Kashgar. Under the scorching sun, the temperature here was as high as 35 degrees. At this time, under the fruit tree has become a rare shade for us, and it is also a place for a good harvest (the sweetness of yellow apricot and mulberry fruit just helps us quench our thirst).
The main tomb of the Apakhoja family is the main body of this cemetery, and it is the largest domed building in Xinjiang. The tomb chamber is 35 meters wide, 29 meters deep, and the wall is more than 10 meters high. There is a cylindrical column embedded in the wall at each of the four corners. The diameter of the bottom circle is 3.5 meters. tower). The large vault with a diameter of 17 meters in the middle protrudes high and is covered with turquoise glazed tiles (tourists are not allowed to take pictures in the tomb). The relics of the concubine Xiang and the carriages brought back from Beijing were placed on the central side of the tomb.
The entire cemetery of the Xiangfei Tomb is beautifully and magnificently built, with a very Islamic architectural style. It consists of scripture halls, mosques, gate towers, mausoleum roads, corridors, pavilions, tombs, cemeteries, orchards, etc. Buildings of various shapes constitute the well-proportioned landscape of the cemetery, which is still gorgeous and holy despite the wind and sand erosion and the vicissitudes of history. The former splendor of the Apak Hoja Tomb can still be seen from the colorful paintings and brick carvings outside the building.
There is a Uighur proverb: "Water flows away, stones remain, people leave fame", in order to commemorate the beautiful Xiangfei, in this border town of Kashgar, known as the "Green Glass Tile House", people pay tribute to this "everybody born". A beautiful mausoleum was built for the god-given daughter of "Xiangxiang". At this time, if you stand here, you will feel an endless reverie of "the scent of the wind and the soul is still there, and the pipa is still fragrant for thousands of years"! No matter what the situation of Concubine Xiang in history is, her story is as beautiful and mysterious as her! It is an eternally beautiful legend!
【Kashgar】A thick historical book
After visiting Xiangfei Cemetery, we took bus No. 20 in front of the garden gate, 1 yuan per person, and got off at Kashgar Guzal Road Station after 5 stops. The journey took about 30 minutes and we walked to the east gate of Kashgar Ancient City Old Town Main Gate). After entering the ancient city, I took a sightseeing bus to tour the eastern block of the ancient city, and then wandered aimlessly in the streets and alleys of the ancient city. After dinner in the ancient city, walk all the way to the east gate of the old city to see the night view outside the ancient city. It is best to return to the hotel from the west gate of the ancient city. There is no charge for the ancient city of Kashgar, and it is 20 yuan per passenger by sightseeing bus.
The ancient city of Kashgar, formerly known as Shule City, also known as Kashgar, has a history of more than 2,000 years. The earliest record is in the "Gu Shule Ji" written by Zhang Qian in the Western Han Dynasty. The old city of Kashgar is located in the center of Kashgar, with an area of 4.25 square kilometers and about 130,000 residents. The streets and alleys in the old city are crisscrossed, the layout is flexible and changeable, and the winding paths lead to seclusion. neighborhood.
The old city of Kashgar is known as the "living millennium ancient city". It combines the Han and Tang Dynasties, the ancient Roman relics and the characteristics of the Uyghur people's life. The architectural style is very Islamic. It is the avenue of communication between Eastern and Western civilizations, and the way of commerce.
Kashgar is now a national-level historical and cultural city and an excellent tourist city in China. In 2010, it was selected as one of the top ten "most Chinese tourist cities" and in 2012 it was awarded "China's top ten cultural tourism destination cities with the most investment potential". With its rich history and culture, rich ethnic customs and unique natural scenery, Kashgar enjoys the reputation of "not going to Xinjiang if you don't go to Kashgar".
Only when we came here did we know that the old city of Kashgar is the center of Kashgar, or in other words, the old city of Kashgar is completely surrounded by the urban area of Kashgar. Every aspect of people's life is closely related to the old city, and it is normal to go in and out of the old city every day. The way for tourists to come to the old city is also very convenient. No matter which direction you enter from, there is a bus, and it only costs 1 yuan. (Picture below) It is a sightseeing battery car in the city. It costs 20 yuan per passenger and can take you anywhere in the old city, allowing you to quickly understand the style and features of the old city and its main attractions.
The old city of Kashgar we have seen is the old city after the Kashgar municipal government invested a huge sum of 1.3 billion (it is said that it has also received great help from some developed provinces and cities in the inland). The essence and style have been completely preserved, and the living environment of the original residents has been improved to a considerable extent. People's quality of life has been greatly improved and employment has been rapidly improved. They really enjoy the double package of modern spiritual civilization and material civilization.
"If you don't go to Kashgar, you don't count as going to Xinjiang", we will walk hand in hand for you! Today, standing here and touching you is enough to make this trip worthwhile!
Tourist landmarks such as "Wustang Boyi Millennium Ancient Street" and "Shamen" in the old city of Kashgar are the soul of Kashgar in the past. It represents the city's ancient past, peaceful present, and hopeful future . It is also a must-visit place for tourists.
Now, wherever you walk in the old city of Kashgar, you can see the strong western customs and different cultures and arts, and you are still continuing to write your own ancient inheritance. As long as you walk in here, it is as if you have traveled through time, walked into the old Gushule, and walked into the Kashgar that people remember. Here, the traditional Twelve Muqam, eagle flute, eagle dance, ancient Daolang culture, etc., these national cultures, either stored in history books or passed down by word of mouth, can be seen everywhere today, and they can be displayed in your real and elegant way at any time. in front of! Here, everyone is a master of playing and singing!
Walking into the old city of Kashgar, you will be dazzled by daily necessities, folk art, decorations and souvenirs with distinctive ethnic characteristics. Nowadays, people who have lived here for generations can continue to write Their innate talent for doing business. They provide everything needed for business travelers traveling on this ancient silk road, continuing the prosperity of business in the old city from ancient times to the present. Your arrival is their watch! When you come, they will play that enthusiasm for you! This is the old city of Kashgar we saw!
Walking into the old city of Kashgar, you can get any description of the customs of the Western Regions in the book, which is not a fiction but a real display in front of you. The women who wear headscarves and face masks with ethnic customs, craftsmen with exquisite handicrafts, men who drive "horses", clever women who make special delicacies for you, and chefs are the highlights of the old city. , is the soul of the old city! They provide everything in life for your arrival! They are the most beautiful scenery in the old city!
Here, a freshly baked naan is 1 yuan, delicious and filling, fresh and large kebabs, 3 yuan a skewer, the taste is authentic, milk tea or old yogurt (both my wife’s favorite) 3 1 bowl. From time to time, I also saw a sign on some stalls that said "No one is selling it, take it yourself". This is the old city of Kashgar, an old city of Kashgar that is full of tradition and adapts to future development!
The handsome guy No. 58, with a nonchalant look, is very interested in our camera.
The children in the old city are healthy and happy, they are naturally willful, their hospitality is far beyond your imagination, they are willing to communicate with tourists, as long as you point the camera at them, they will serve you in the most enthusiastic and exaggerated way Leave a memory!
In the picturesque old city, the children here go to and from school every day, just like children anywhere in the inland, and receive free and good education. The only difference from the mainland is that they do not need the escort of their parents on the road at all. A good and safe environment is an essential condition for children to grow up. Children are the future of the motherland, and the youth is strong, the country is strong, and the nation is prosperous. The children in the old city are innocent and lovely, and they must have a happy future!
people in the old town
Life in the old city of Kashgar is slow-paced, and the shops along the streets of the old city only open for business at 10 am every day. Vendors have just begun to gather here to start a day's business. It is said that every stall in the old city is formed naturally, and no one will seize other stalls. For many years, everyone has followed this unwritten rule. We walked the streets and alleys of the old city, and from time to time we saw old people and women chatting under the flowers and trees, enjoying their old age. The children were chasing and playing in the lanes, enjoying themselves. This is the life we see in the old city. People's life is peaceful and calm, and it has lasted for thousands of years!
After we entered the ancient city of Kashgar, we took a sightseeing bus to tour the eastern block of the ancient city, and then wandered aimlessly in the streets and alleys near the Gaotai folk houses in the ancient city. Then, after dinner in the ancient city, we walked all the way to the east gate of the ancient city to watch the night view. Finally, we walked back to the hotel from the west gate of the ancient city, which was the end of our long and rich day when we first arrived in Kashgar.
【Karakorum Highway】The "Heavenly Road" leading to Pamir
At noon on June 10, according to the instructions of netizens, we took a taxi (14 yuan) to Kashgar Tourist Service Center to apply for a border defense certificate, and then came to the gate of a community called Impression.Eden. Take the long-distance bus in the direction of Taxkorgan County in southern Xinjiang (get on the bus outside the station, buy tickets at Kashi West Bus Station and perform security check), 65 yuan per person, and the journey is 210 kilometers. Along the Karakoram Highway, known as the most beautiful "sky road" in Xinjiang, we went to the farthest goal of our trip in Xinjiang, the famous Muztagh Peak and Karakul Lake on the Pamirs.
Looking forward to the distance, the beauty is on the road, and the excitement is in the moment. Today, we are walking on this long-awaited Karakoram Highway!
The Xinjiang Karakoram Highway (also known as National Highway 314) was rated as one of the "Ten Most Beautiful Highways in the World". Shishan Mountains, the western end of the Himalayas and other high mountains and mountains, with a total length of 1032 kilometers, 416 kilometers in China and 616 kilometers in Pakistan. The lowest altitude of the highway is 1154 meters, and the highest altitude is 4733 meters. There is a universally recognized "crossroads" on this road, where Chinese and Western cultures blend, and where the five major mountain ranges meet. It is also the only way for the ancient and modern Silk Road. This is the Pamirs.
The Karakoram Highway was built in the 1960s. After tens of thousands of people and more than ten years of hard work, a total of about 700 people from China and Pakistan lost their lives (137 officers and soldiers from the Chinese side died here), which is equivalent to one road per kilometer. In exchange for human life. The highway was declared completed in 1979 and officially opened to the outside world in 1986. It became the link between China and Pakistan, and was hailed as a symbol of China-Pakistan friendship. Because of the difficulty of construction, it was called the eighth wonder of the world at that time. Today, this highway leads directly to Gwadar Port in Pakistan, which is a strategic channel for my country to go west out of the Indian Ocean.
The Karakoram Highway passes through the shattered zone created by the collision of the Indian and Eurasian plates. Forming one of the most awe-inspiring mountain landscapes on Earth, it is also a fascination for geologists, mountaineers and travellers. There are many tallest mountains in the world standing on this road, among which there is the world's second highest peak, K2, at 8,611 meters above sea level, and more than a hundred peaks over 7,000 meters. Along the way, there are plateau lakes, glaciers, Wetlands, grasslands, Gobi, deserts, basins, Danxia and other landscapes on the earth except oceans.
This road runs from Kashgar to Hongqi Lapu Port in Taxkorgan County, showing the unique plateau scenery of the Pamirs along the way. In order, there are colorful Danxia landforms, Baisha Lake, Karakuri Lake, Muztagh Peak, Gongger Jiubie Peak, Taxian Golden Grass Beach, Stone City, Tuyu Xinghuagou and other famous landscapes.
Some people say that the most beautiful scenery can only be seen through the most difficult road. We have seen the steepness of the Sichuan-Tibet National Highway 318 and the Yunnan-Tibet National Highway 214, the beauty of the Tianshan Duku Highway, and even drove across the Riyue Mountain Daban on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway. Although the previous experience was impressive, I was still shocked by the sight in front of me. Many years ago, we started to do homework here and have a certain understanding of this place. When you actually come here, the feeling in front of you is still beyond your previous imagination!
Our shuttle bus continues southward along the Gezi River next to the road, and then enters the hinterland of the Pamirs, where huge snow-capped mountains rush towards us, presenting an endless desolation and loneliness, as if taking you into the vast secret world of heaven!
The shuttle bus traveled all the way for about 2 hours, and arrived at the first stop of our trip in Pamir - Baisha Lake. The huge white hills and the heart-pounding blue lake immediately aroused the exclamation of the passengers on the bus. , everyone unanimously asked the driver to stop and look at the scenery. Here, people are selflessly taking pictures, competing to record this rare moment!
The Baisha Lake in front of you, the water and the sky are the same color, extremely pure, the clear lake water is connected to a stretch of white sand dunes in the distance, with a silvery metallic texture, both illusion and reality, a simple and clean. At this time, the sky is suddenly overcast with chaotic clouds, and the lake water also changes different colors under the light and shadow of the clouds, light green, blue and white, and light blue. Constitute an amazing picture!
Baisha Lake is located at the confluence of Gazi River and Kumjile River in southern Xinjiang. Due to the damming here to store water for irrigation and power generation, a plateau lake with an area of 44 square kilometers has been formed. The mountain on the shore of the lake is covered with white sand, called Baisha Mountain, and the lake at the foot of the mountain is also called Baisha Lake. Due to the unique and unique scene of Baisha Lake, now it has become a must-see place for people to travel to the Pamirs.
The river in front of me is the famous Gaizi River in southern Xinjiang. It is also the Liusha River in the myth "Journey to the West". It is the place where Tang Seng accepted his third apprentice, Monk Sha. Although the river we saw has a very wide riverbed, there is not much water in the river. In the middle of the river, there are even yaks drinking water leisurely.
The shuttle bus passed Baisha Lake for about 30 kilometers, and a temporary parking and dining spot 250 meters in front of the "Pamir Tourist Scenic Spot 98 kilometers" on the road sign (above) was the end of our trip to southern Xinjiang. (Pictured below) The yurts on the roadside (netizens say 50 yuan per person) is our target accommodation.
We got off the bus in front of the yurt and handed over the return ticket to our shuttle bus driver Maimaiti. Turjiang (cash for ticket purchase, mobile phone number and ID number). This is the case when traveling in Xinjiang, as long as you take a long-distance You don't have to worry about going back when you take the shuttle bus or line car to where you want to go.
Some people say that as long as you have a heart to go out, the distant place will no longer be far away! Behind us are Muztagh Peak known as the "Father of Icebergs" and the famous Karakul Lake. In 2011, when we got to know it in a CCTV film introducing the scenery of the Pamirs, we began to prepare for the trip here. Today, 8 years later, after traveling more than 5,000 kilometers, I finally stand here today. At this time, the excitement in my heart is self-evident!
Just when we were worrying about the night’s accommodation (due to the cold weather, no one promised us to stay in the yurt), at this time, a kind Ta herdsman took us in, and in front of us (50 yuan per person for accommodation) is our tonight The guest room, three beds are all the belongings in the room. Although it is simple, it still exceeds our best expectations for this place. On the Pamirs where "there is no village in the front and no shop in the back", compared with the yurt, the "guest room" in front of you is simply "luxury"!
Outside our guest room is the Karakoram Highway, where we can clearly see Muztagh, the "father of the iceberg" and Karakul Lake, which is called a "viewing room". The ground outside the door is about 3,700 meters above sea level. The climate here is cold, the temperature at noon is close to zero, and it is about -5 degrees in the morning and evening. That morning, we were still wearing thin summer clothes in Kashgar. When we got here, we wrapped all the clothes in the suitcase on our bodies, but we still felt cold.
That night, for our safety, the herdsman’s old father stayed with us in the room next to us. The old man sent two candles (there is no electricity) and two bottles of boiling water, and repeatedly (gesturing) told us not to go out at night (actually, This is one of the areas with zero crime record since the founding of New China and the best law and order. The only thing that is not safe is that there will be some beasts infested). Here, although we do not speak the language, our hearts are connected!
On this snowy plateau night with high winds and dark nights, under the iceberg and on the shore of the great lake, with us holding hands and relying on each other, and with the enthusiastic help of our Ta brothers, we spent a warm and peaceful time here. Unforgettable night, but also leave a precious memory!
In fact, last night we were not only accompanied by the old man from the Ta tribe, but also vehicles loaded with supplies that kept passing by the door. Today, the sound of motors on this highway is endless. Since the reform and opening up, the Karakoram Highway has undergone continuous transformation and renovation, and the hardships and dangers of the past are long gone. If you want to know what is the Silk Road and what is the Western Development, then the busy scene on the Karakoram Highway in front of you is a true portrayal of the Silk Road and the Western Development!
The old road of Karakoram in history is wild and lonely, and it is a secret plateau where few people dare to go. Today's Karakoram Highway has become a tourist avenue, a road that shows the charm of the plateau! A road of well-being connecting all ethnic groups! We walked all the way and witnessed its majestic beauty and its infinite scenery!
【Mustagh Peak】Two visitors under the iceberg
On the afternoon of June 10th and the morning of June 11th, we watched Muztagh Peak and the Gonggar Peaks opposite it all the way around Kuhu Lake, looking for our favorite shooting pictures all the way. For the excited southerners, it can be regarded as too much "snow mountain complex". Here, we are still waiting for a moment of our hearts and minds, that is the magnificent "Father of the Iceberg" Muztag Sunset. Before, we only saw it in photos, but today, we look forward to seeing this wonderful scene before our eyes!
The picture above is a beautiful sunset shot of Muztag by netizens. For this moment, we have traveled all the way to hide. Due to the special climate of the Pamir Plateau, the chances of people being able to see the Muztag Sunset Golden Mountain are very small, only about 50 days a year. In this regard, some people say that if you want to see the sunset of Muztag, you must first be sincere and second, be lucky. Sincerely dare not say, we come here, at least it can be regarded as "admiration". It seems that today's weather is considered good, and it is somewhat lucky. We are full of expectations!
Today, under the "Father of the Iceberg" Muztag and the "Treasure Mirror" Lake Karakul, there are only us visitors + four yaks + two camels.
There are many beautiful local legends about the origin of "Father of Iceberg" Muztag. According to legend, Muztag is a kind father who has two beautiful daughters. Since the daughters went out for a long time and did not return, the father watched the direction of their travel and waited for their return. Over time, the severe cold of the Pamirs turned Muztag into an iceberg. After the daughters returned, they saw that their kind father had turned into an iceberg, and faced their father's reluctance to leave affectionately. Over time, they were also turned into the twin female peaks of "the father and two daughters of the iceberg".
He also said that a long time ago, there were no mountains and lakes here, but a lush pasture. There lived an old Kirgiz man and a pair of beautiful but sickly daughters on the ranch. One night, the old man dreamed that there was a fairy mountain in the east, and there was a precious mirror of the sun and the moon on the mountain. As long as he got the mirror and let his daughters take a photo, they would be cured of all diseases and regain their health.
So the old man bid farewell to his daughter and went to the East to find the precious mirror. The two daughters watched the east every day, looking forward to their father's return. After an unknown period of time, the hair of the two daughters turned white, and their tears dried up. Finally, they turned into two snow-capped mountains. The white snow on the top of the mountain is their white hair, the glaciers on the mountainside are their tears, and the small snow peaks are their sheep.
The old man went through many hardships and finally got back the precious mirror of the sun and the moon. When he saw that his beloved daughters had turned into snow-capped mountains, the mirror in his hand fell to the ground, broke in two, and then turned into a mirror. The two connected lakes are Karakuri Lake. The old man stood quietly in front of his daughters. Over time, it also turned into a huge snow mountain. This is Muztag Peak, known as the "father of icebergs".
Regardless of whether the legends of Muztag and Lake Karakul are true or not, the story itself is full of poignancy and love. In fact, on the Pamirs, people always associate the beauty of nature with the beauty of human nature, giving life to all beautiful scenery. Now, wherever you go in Xinjiang, as long as you see the moving scenery, you will hear moving stories!
In the evening, Gongger Jiubie Peak lined up. It is not a legend that the movie "Guest on the Iceberg" was filmed right under the iceberg in front of me. In the film, the kind platoon leader Yang took the initiative to stand guard for Amir in order to meet the handsome soldier Amir and the beautiful girl Gulandam. On the way, he encountered a blizzard and was frozen into an iceman and sacrificed, but he still stood upright on the iceberg. This makes foreign separatists dare not sneak across the border. It is said that the outline of this story was inspired by the "Father of Iceberg".
At this time, the sun is setting little by little, and the clouds are climbing up the mountain of "Father of Iceberg" Muztag little by little. As the sun's rays receded and the clouds continued to thicken, our mood changed from anticipation to worry, melancholy to disappointment!
After all, Muztag’s Sunset Golden Mountain did not appear. Traveling is often like this, there are gains and losses, not only do your homework well, but also good luck. At the moment, he missed Muztag Xizhao. This is probably the charm of travel! Both gains and losses are wonderful!
Although we haven't seen the best of the father of the iceberg, after all, we have watched it all over the place, and we have no regrets! There are some things in life, whether you want to do it or not, whether you can do it or not, if you want to do it but can't do it, you will regret it!
In the twilight, Lake Karakul and the snow-capped mountains behind it present an ancient primitive and vastness. At this moment, on the snow-covered plateau of Xinjiang, our distant motherland, only the two of us are standing here hand in hand. Only I know this heartfelt touch! This is a precious moment in life, enough to remember for a lifetime!
[Kahu, Mufeng] Pamir with the blue sky and snow-capped mountains
On the morning of June 11th, there was no task today, and we slept in the "guest room" until we woke up naturally. The old Ta family who waited for us overnight boiled water, said goodbye to us, and told us that his granddaughter would come to cook breakfast for us soon. After a while, a beautiful girl from the Ta ethnic group came here on a battery car. After a while, she made beef steamed buns and hot noodles that the locals love for the two of us. Although we are not used to this kind of taste, we still show that we eat with relish. During the conversation, I learned that this girl from the Ta ethnic group has just finished the college entrance examination and helps her family manage this small restaurant every day. Her biggest wish is to go to the mainland to study in university and find a job she wants to do in the mainland in the future. If you can't achieve this wish, you can come back to engage in pastoral tourism in the future.
Today's Pamir is sunny and sunny, which is a change from yesterday's hazy mist. Under the blue sky and white clouds, Kahu, Mufeng, Gongger Peak and Sister Ernv Peak are magnificent and beautiful.
Today's Karakul Lake is blue, full of beauty and purity.
Today's Gonggar and its long-lost brothers are full of charm under the blue sky and white clouds, which is a special scene.
Today's "Father of the Iceberg" Muztag showed his dignity! It and Lake Ku are like two shattered mirrors, still continuing to write the ancient legend, and passing this legend on to everyone who comes here to visit him!
Today's "Sisters and Two Female Peaks" are also full of beauty. They and the "Father of the Ice Mountain" are facing each other across the blue waves, never leaving, forever!
At this time, our shuttle bus driver Maimaiti Tuerjiang called, and it was time to return. We bid farewell to that beautiful girl from the Ta tribe, and wish her success in the college entrance examination and her ideals come true! Say goodbye to the father of the iceberg and his sons and daughters, say goodbye to the blue lake, and say goodbye to Gongger and his long-lost brothers. At this point, the two-day trip to Pamir was over, and we returned to Kashgar that night. The picture below is the 19-seat Yutong minibus driven by the driver Maimaiti Turjiang.
[Looking for the past in Kashgar City] Visit Banchao Memorial Park
On the morning of June 12, we took the No. 4 bus from the front of the hotel to the Kashgar Museum. Unexpectedly, the museum was closed for renovation. I didn't see its rich and western-style collections, so I could only keep this photo in front of the door.
Afterwards, we walked about 3 kilometers along the Kashgar Tuman River from the Kashgar Museum to the Banchao Memorial Park, now known as Panlu City. Panlu City is located in the southeast of Kashgar City, also known as "Eskesa" city. According to historical records, in the 1970s, Panlu City was the palace city of Shule State at that time, and later became Banchao's resident camp city governing the Western Regions. , also known as "Banchao City" in historical materials. The history of Panlu City is closely related to Banchao. To commemorate Banchao's achievements in the history of the Western Regions, the Kashgar Municipal Government rebuilt the Banchao Memorial Park on the site of Panlu City. The Memorial Park is free of tickets and free explanations.
Ban Chao (AD 32-102), courtesy name Zhongsheng, was born in Xianyang, Shaanxi. Born in a family in the Eastern Han Dynasty, his father Ban Biao was a famous diplomat, military strategist and historian in the Eastern Han Dynasty. His elder brother Ban Gu and younger sister Ban Zhao were both famous historians in the Eastern Han Dynasty. Ban Chao had great ambitions since he was a child, he didn't fix details, he was filial and respectful, and he judged the truth. He has great ambitions, reads a lot of books, and joined the army in his youth. He accompanied Dou Gu, a famous general in the Eastern Han Dynasty, to attack the Northern Xiongnu. The Western Regions once again made great contributions to bringing the Western Regions back to the motherland. Ban Chao was appointed as the guardian of the Western Regions, and he was granted the title of Marquis of Dingyuan, known as "Ban Dingyuan" in the world.
More than 2,000 years ago, the wise and courageous Ban Chao led 36 capable ministers to the Western Regions. Through a series of struggles and measures, he quelled the influence of the Huns and completed the unification of the Western Regions. The Eastern Han Dynasty was stagnant for 65 years due to civil strife. The long-standing Silk Road was reopened. Some historians commented that Ban Chao was the first person to actually unify the Western Regions after Zhang Qian traveled to the Western Regions, and the historical achievements made by Ban Chao are immeasurable.
During his 18 years in the Western Regions, Ban Chao has always been based in Shule. He has a high character and a firm will. He has always upheld fairness and fairness in dealing with affairs and disputes among countries in the Western Regions, resolutely eradicated separatist forces, and brought advanced farming, water conservancy and sericulture technologies from the Central Plains. The prosperity of the road has enabled the people of the Western Regions to live and work in peace and contentment, and their production and life have greatly developed. Ban Chao was ordered to resign and prepare to return to Beijing, but because of the unanimous persuasion of Shule, the people of the Western Regions and even the royal family, Ban Chao had no choice but to stay in his post. It was not until the year before his death that he left the Western Regions and returned to his hometown.
Behind the statue of Banchao in the Memorial Garden is a huge and exquisite mural relief, which reproduces a series of measures taken by Banchao in the Western Regions to govern the country and strive to develop the production economy, and has been warmly responded and embraced by the local people. .
At this moment, you are standing in the memorial garden, and Ban Chao "Ban Dingyuan" leads his thirty-six capable ministers, as if they are coming to you from the depths of history. , For the unification of the country and the nation, for the tranquility of the frontier of the motherland, and for the smooth flow of the Silk Road, they fought all their lives for this, and they died for themselves! It is the foresight, unremitting efforts, and dedication of the ancestors that constitute our Greater China today, and make Xinjiang for two thousand years always the Xinjiang of the motherland! No force can separate her from China's territory! People will never forget, history will always remember!
[Re-enter the ancient city of Kashgar] Worship the Id Kah Mosque
In the afternoon, we walked all the way from the hotel to the famous Id Kah Mosque in the old city of Kashgar. "Id Kah" in Uighur means "festival, happy square". The mosque is the "place of worship" for Muslims. The Id Kah Mosque (that is, the big temple for festivals and joyful worship) is located in the west of the Aiti Erga Square in the center of the old city of Kashgar, sitting west to east, covering an area of 16,800 square meters. It was built in 1442 and has a history of more than 500 years. . It is one of the three largest mosques in Xinjiang, the largest in the country, and the most influential in Asia. For those Muslims who cannot make a pilgrimage to Mecca in their lifetime, coming to the Id Kah Mosque is the best choice. Therefore, there is a saying that "if you can go to Kashgar, why bother Mecca". Tickets for the Id Kah Mosque are 20 yuan, half-ticket for 60-year-olds.
The origin of Id Kah Mosque is quite historical. It is said that this place used to be a cemetery for Muslim nobles. In 1442 AD, the ruler of Kashgar, Shaksezi, was buried here after Mirza died, and the descendants of the royal family built a small mosque here. This is Id Kah. The predecessor of the mosque. In 1798, Guli Rena, a wealthy Uighur businessman, died of illness during a journey, and people used her inheritance to expand the temple and named it Id Kah. Later, Zhuolipiya Khan, another Uighur rich woman, donated money for expansion and purchased 600 mu of land as the property of the temple. After that, after the expansion and improvement of the Ming and Qing dynasties, the magnificent Id Kah Mosque was formed today. In 2001, the Id Kah Mosque, as a representative of ancient buildings in the Ming Dynasty, was approved by the State Council to be listed as a national key cultural relic protection unit.
The Aitiga Grand Mosque is not only an important place for religious activities in Xinjiang, but also an important institution for spreading Islamic culture and cultivating talents in the past dynasties. Many high-ranking Islamic clerics and scholars from the north and south of the Tianshan Mountains and even Central Asia graduated from here Many influential poets, writers, historians and translators also received rigorous academic training here in their early years. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, some respected patriotic and law-abiding religious figures in the temple were also elected as people's representatives and members of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference by people from all walks of life. They wrote books here and contributed their whole lives to the study of Xinjiang's history and religion.
The Id Kah Mosque has now become the largest gathering place for Muslims in Xinjiang. It is said that no less than a few thousand people come here to worship every day, and the number of Muslim men usually reaches 6-7 thousand on Friday (Jumah Day) afternoon. During the Eid al-Adha, Muslims from all over Xinjiang come to worship, and the number can reach tens of thousands. They carnival all night long and the scene is majestic and spectacular. The temple follows Muslim rules, but at this time women (including Muslim women) and non-Muslims are prohibited from entering, and the rest of the time is open to anyone.
It is said that worshipers who come to the Id Kah Mosque during the three major Muslim festivals (Adha, Eid al-Fitr, and Eid al-Fitr) kneel inside and outside the mosque and the square in front of the mosque, and even kneel in the streets and alleys around the square. Inspired by their faith, the worshipers prayed devoutly to Allah, and the scene was extremely shocking.
Today's Aiti Ka Mosque has become the representative of Islamic culture in Xinjiang. According to traditional Muslim customs, the early morning worship of the Eid al-Adha is the largest worship of the year. It is said that after hundreds of thousands of Muslim men gathered in the square, the musicians climbed to the gate of the Id Kah Mosque, knocked on the Nagra (iron shell drum) and played the Suonai (suona). People will dance the passionate shaman dance and sing heartily, and the singing will resound through the sky!
On the day we arrived at the Aiti Ka Mosque, there were not many worshipers in the mosque except for some travel agencies leading tourists to pass by in a hurry. There were almost no people in the main hall and worship hall. Had a great time playing with groups of pigeons. Under the shade of the trees beside the square, many local Muslim elders gathered, enjoying their own leisure and comfort in the holy place in their minds. Although the Aitiga Mosque we saw lacked the imaginary hustle and bustle, it was still solemn and dignified, emitting a divine light! This is the Aitiga Mosque we saw, and it is also the Aitiga Mosque in our impression!
This is about a family of three, and it seems that they are living a very good life. We don't understand their language, where they come from, or what ethnic group they belong to. It may be that it is not easy to come here once in a lifetime. It requires us to take a family portrait, and at the same time, it also leaves us with a rare experience.
Why is it said that "if you haven't been to Kashgar, you haven't been to Xinjiang"? Why is China's largest mosque in Kashgar? Perhaps, standing on the square of the big temple in front of you, you can realize the answer. Throughout the ages, people have sought for a better life, to explore the world, and to communicate among civilizations. They rode camel horses through the long Gobi Desert, or over mountains, or through the wild plateau, and finally came to this fertile oasis after going through hardships and obstacles. People need to stop here for supplies, and they need to rest and be happy. No matter where people come from, no matter what nationality they come from, everyone regards this place as an ideal home and a spiritual station. Therefore, people not only built the Langguo, a city-state integrating the most ethnic groups in Xinjiang, but also built the most magnificent spiritual home here. With continuous development and progress from generation to generation, Kashgar has achieved today! Created today's Aitiga Mosque!
When you walk into Kashgar, you are a minority, which is not an exaggeration. But you will not feel lonely because of this. The enthusiasm of Kashgar people and the natural tolerance of Kashgar people surround you everywhere! Kashgar's strong Islamic ethnic style attracts you all the time! In Xinjiang, there is no city as full of western charm as Kashgar, and no place as full of rivers and rivers as Kashgar. Only when you have been to Kashgar and experienced Kashgar, can you understand a real and complete Xinjiang!
[End] Tasting Xinjiang delicacies, overlooking the Tianshan Mountains by plane
June 13th was the last day of our trip to Xinjiang. We slept in the hotel until we woke up naturally. After that, we wandered around Kashgar for a while. Tasting Xinjiang delicacies is also one of the contents of our trip to Xinjiang. At noon that day, we went to a restaurant called "Zi Ya" in the urban area of Kashgar. It was 58 yuan per person and enjoyed Xinjiang's special hot pot. A buffet feast of dishes, non-staple food, meat, fruits, drinks, etc. (many of which we cannot name or have never heard of). Even if I have seen what is called Xinjiang cuisine, I also ate it to my heart's content.
After enjoying a gourmet meal, we bid farewell to the current hotel where we stayed for many days, and took the Airport No. 1 bus line in the center of Kashgar Old Town to Kashgar Airport. At this point, we still have one last expectation, which is "flying over the Tianshan Mountains, overlooking the Tianshan Mountains". We look forward to a wonderful end to this trip to Xinjiang!
Not long after the plane took off, the first thing I saw was the magnificent Danxia landform of Tianshan Mountain.
After a while, there was an exclamation in the cabin, and the vast expanse of snow in the Tianshan Mountains appeared in front of our eyes!
Someone in the cabin said (pictured above) that this is the main peak of the Tianshan Mountains, Tomur Peak at an altitude of 7,486 meters.
A deep canyon in the vast Tianshan Mountains.
The vast plains, oases, rivers and wetlands in the Tianshan Mountains.
Overlooking the magnificence of Tianshan Mountain is a rare opportunity in life! It's like a gift from God.
In the evening, the flight stops at Urumqi Airport.
In the middle of the night, the flight arrived at Beijing Airport.
In the morning of the next day, we took a flight from Beijing Airport to Nanjing Lukou Airport.
The flight arrived at Nanjing Lukou Airport. "Under the sea of clouds is a hometown, and a place with a home is a paradise." With the excitement and fatigue of the journey, we are about to return to the origin of life. "Xinjiang is a good place, and there are many good places in Xinjiang." After the original trip to Xinjiang, Xinjiang was brought to an end. At this point, we changed our minds again. As long as there is an opportunity and impulse, we will definitely come to Xinjiang again!
(End) Jinling Lesou
