Foreword:
When people get old, the biggest feature is the decline of physical function and the increase of nostalgia. In the dead of night, people often think hard. The old roads, the mountains and waters they have seen are staged like old movies. The protagonist in the play is still the boy and his playmates when he was young. Once there is a coincidence, just go back to the way you came here.
Note:
The year 2020 is very turbulent, with natural disasters and man-made disasters constantly, especially the outbreak of an epidemic at the end of Yihai lasted for several months. Countless doctors and nurses devoted themselves to the front line, fighting like soldiers. It wasn't until the beginning of April that the epidemic gradually stabilized and work and production resumed, and the city, which was killed by all industries, had a little vitality.
March is sunny and sunny. Because the school has not yet concentrated on school work, and just have free time, the boss proposed to go to Panshan, which is known as the first mountain in Jingdong. This idea coincided with my nostalgic mood, so I packed up and drove off.
Although it is a working day, the road is very quiet in the early morning, and the whole city seems to be still in a deep sleep. The expressway and Zhicheng Road are smooth all the way, and we will soon arrive at Jinji Expressway.
In order to restore the economy hit hard by the epidemic, the expressway is still free. Therefore, there are a lot of large trailers on the Jinji Expressway, which gradually decreased after passing the exit of the Jingha Expressway.
It takes about two hours from Nankai to arrive at the Panshan Exit of Jinji Expressway. Come out at high speed and go straight through a disc, show your health code, measure your temperature, and then enter the parking lot in Panshan Scenic Area (the fee is 5 yuan when you come out, scan the code to pay).
It was very windy today, and after getting out of the car, the single pants were blown through by the mountain wind and felt very cold. Fortunately, the boss brought a thin down jacket to wear to make it warmer.
Drink a cup of hot milk, bring water and biscuits and start up the mountain.
There is no one in the tourist hall, only a few staff members are chatting in the sunny place, or explaining how to apply for the health code to some tourists from other places. Before departure, I purchased tickets on Ctrip (75 yuan/person), gave the SMS number for purchasing electronic tickets to the staff in the visitor hall, printed out the tickets, and then entered the scenic spot.
The fame of Panshan should be derived from Emperor Qianlong's poem "If I knew there was Panshan, why would I go to the south of the Yangtze River?" It is said that Emperor Qianlong had driven Panshan 32 times, which shows his love for Panshan.
When I first came to Panshan in my second year of high school, Tianjin No. 95 Middle School organized a spring outing. I was fortunate to travel with a few close friends and took photos in front of Dule Temple. Although the photos were already stained and mottled, the pure friendship was deeply rooted in my heart. Over the years, I have traveled through many mountains and rivers in various places, and often went to Jixian County (now renamed Jizhou), including Limutai, Huangyaguan, etc., but Panshan never came again. Now more than 30 years later, I revisit the old place, looking for the memories of the past while walking.
pay for a panorama
Entering the scenic spot, you will be greeted by the excerpt of "You Panshan Ji" written by Emperor Qianlong: "Lian Taihang, Gongshenjing, Jieshi, away from Cangming, walk Jiye, and rest on the Great Wall, it is Panshan. Covering the heavenly work of Jizhou, overlooking All the ravines. Like the stars dominating the north, no one dares to compete with them."
Panshan belongs to the Yanshan Mountains, and is connected to the Taihang Mountains in the north through Yanshan Mountains, so it is "connected to Taihang Mountains"; and together they become a natural barrier in the north of Beijing. On the north side of the Drum Tower in Jizhou, there is still a plaque of "Jidong Lock and Key", which can be seen from its "Gongshenjing". It also connects to Jieshi, Shandong Province in the south, borders the Bohai Sea in the east, walks in the vast expanse of Jiye, embraces the Great Wall, and complements the Huangya. Here, Emperor Gaozong and Qianlong used six verbs in a row to fully outline the origin and function of Panshan, as well as the geographical situation of being surrounded by mountains and rivers, and guarding the fortress.
Climbing up the stairs, you arrive at the mountain gate, standing on the arch bridge in front of the gate, and the koi in the water heard the sound of stepping. Take out the food in the bag, throw it on the water, and koi of various colors rush to tell each other and flock to it.
On the Shanmen Square, there is a huge plaque of Emperor Qianlong's "I knew there was a Panshan, so why go to the south of the Yangtze River".
Go through the mountain gate and go west. Not far away is the Shengsheng Square, where there are many tourist vehicles parked, all of which are Mercedes station wagons. Here you can take a station wagon to go straight to the place where the cable car at the top of the mountain is located.
Going further in, it is the archway of the first mountain in Jingdong, and behind it is the second mountain gate. Here you need to show the ticket again and scan the code to enter the mountain. This is the real entry into Panshan Scenic Area.
Panshan is known as "Three Pans". The unique topography constitutes a natural wonder with pine on the upper wall, stone in the middle wall, and water in the lower wall. The only way to visit Panshan Mountain is to walk. The taste of the upper, middle and lower pans naturally makes tourists forget about nature and never get tired of it. Therefore, it is recommended to take the west road to go up the mountain, so that you can see the magnificent scenery of the three pans.
At the entrance is the "Three Plates of Dusk Rain", with smoke lingering between pines and rocks, full of fairy spirit. In fact, the so-called "three sets of twilight rain" does not refer to this place, but refers to the top set with pine, the middle set with stones, and the bottom set with water, all of which are covered by clouds at dusk and mist. In the mountains, you can see the phenomenon of "it seems sunny but not sunny, and it is raining if it is not raining". At this time, "the clouds in the mountains are full of clouds, vast and vast like peaks and mountains of a sea of snow, haunting them like smoke and masts riding the wind", this landscape of Panshan is called "Sanpan Muyu" by scholars. This is a natural landscape.
Further up is the famous "Lucky". The word "Successful" is written by Rong Lu. Ronglu, courtesy name Zhonghua, was a military minister and governor of Zhili in the late Qing Dynasty. Fascinating, implying that you have entered the pure land of Buddhism. It comes from the ancient poem "The mountains are verdant and fascinating, and the empty valley echoes the sound of the stream."
As one of the 15 famous mountains in the country, stone carvings of Panshan Mountain can be seen everywhere. Literati and celebrities like to engrave their names on the mountain stones, or express their feelings at that time, or record a certain experience.
Ming Zou (zou) enters the valley. According to historical records, from the Three Kingdoms to the end of the Qing Dynasty, emperors of all dynasties visited Panshan. Wei Wudi Cao Cao, Tang Taizong Li Shimin, Liao Taizong and Shengzong, Emperor Kangxi, Jiaqing, Daoguang, etc. all visited Panshan. Emperor Qianlong even drove Panshan 32 times and wrote "You Panshan Ji". Li Shimin, Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty, wrote, "How can I enjoy the tour here, why bother to go outside the city". It can be seen that the style and prestige of "Ming Zou entered the valley" at that time.
The bottom plate is full of water. The gurgling stream flows down the mountain, either as a stream or as a waterfall. It's called "Xiwu", "Gunxue" and "Shuxia". The stream gushes down from the cliff, fluttering like long hair of a beauty, and hits the rocks like broken jade. It is blown by the mountain wind and dances like snowflakes, shining brightly under the sunlight.
The winding stream in the valley is clear and fast. There is a huge stone lying on the road, wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, shaped like an ingot. The inscription on this stone carving is ancient sandalwood Ningchun, and "ancient sandalwood" is Miyun. Ning Chun is the name. It is said that a person from Miyun County in ancient times passed by here and was attracted by the beautiful scenery of Panshan Mountain. He wanted to sum up the scenery of Panshan Mountain in one sentence, so he borrowed the words "Here There are lofty mountains, luxuriant forests and bamboos", he saw that the pine trees in Panshan grow strangely, and the rocks have strange shapes. Therefore, "there are lofty mountains, strange rocks and strange pines" left here.
When you go to Panshan, you must go to Tiancheng Temple. Tiancheng Temple, formerly known as Fushan Temple, also known as "Tiancheng Dharma Realm", is a key scenic spot in the Panshan tourist area. According to legend, during the Kangxi and Qianlong periods, Buddhism flourished in Panshan, and there were as many as 72 temples. Tiancheng Temple and Wansong Temple are all famous temples. Tiancheng Temple is backed by Cuiping Peak. There are two ginkgo trees in front, 25 meters high and 3.1 meters in circumference.
(The gate of Tiancheng Temple borrows pictures from the Internet)
On the back of the inscription in Tiancheng Temple is the Qing Dynasty opera writer and poet Hong Sheng's "Tiancheng Temple": "The cloud embraces the tower and the shadow, and the sky hangs down on all sides; two mountains serve as the gate of the temple, and one water flows down the foot of the cliff"'. Hong Sheng's style name is Fangsi, his name is Barnyard Chick, and he is also known as Nanping Woodcutter. In the seventh year of Kangxi, he studied at the Imperial College in Beijing, failed the imperial examinations for 20 years, and was dressed in white for life. The masterpiece "The Palace of Eternal Life". He was impeached and imprisoned for performing "The Palace of Eternal Life" on the death day of Empress Xiaoyi. In the 43rd year of Kangxi, Cao Yin (the author of A Dream of Red Mansions) was rehearsing the complete version of "The Palace of Eternal Life" in Nanjing. Hong Sheng was invited to watch it. Afterwards, on his way back to Hangzhou, he got drunk and fell into the water in Wuzhen.
On the west side of the main hall of Tiancheng Temple, there is an ancient pagoda named ancient Buddha relic pagoda. It was first built in the Tang Dynasty and rebuilt in the Liao Dynasty. It was rebuilt during the Chongzhen period of the Ming Dynasty. It was burned down by the Japanese invading army in 1942. In 1980, it was repaired and equipped with copper bells and pagodas. The tower has 13 floors with octagonal dense eaves and a height of 22.63 meters. A total of 104 copper bells are hung on each eaves corner. The wind blows the bells and sounds melodiously. The whole body of the pagoda is decorated with pale yellow, reflecting each other with Tiancheng Temple and Cuiping Peak. The pilgrims came from far away, but they didn't see the pagoda before seeing the temple.
Emperor Qianlong left many poems in Tiancheng Temple. "Shuangfeng opens up the sky, one path into the cloud road. Find the strange and the new, according to the original reason. Clear thinking will be rational and interesting, and the scene is like a sentence. Open the window and see the scenery. The spring reveals. Do nothing to remember the past , I can be happy to meet you."
Emperor Qianlong had a monk named Yunhai who practiced on his behalf in Tiancheng Temple. The emperor drove Tiancheng Temple several times, and Yunhai built "Jiangshan Yilan Pavilion" for him. The title of the Emperor: "A List of Jiangshan". He also chanted a poem: "Sit in my Jiangshan Pavilion, and write poems to chat and send haze." The front of this pavilion faces the stream, the back is rocky, and there are five couplets up and down. The carved beams and painted buildings are exquisite and unique, and you can overlook from the pavilion. There are green hills floating in the east and west, piled up with greenery.
Unfortunately, during the epidemic, the main hall of Tiancheng Temple was being refurbished, and Jiangshan Yilan Pavilion was not open, so it was not possible to enter.
Whenever pilgrims bow down, the wind will blow the bell, and it seems that the Buddha is listening to it. After getting up, the melodious wind bell will sound again, bless the life of peace.
The mountain road is extremely quiet, and there are not many tourists along the way, only the occasional flying birds and the rustle of walking on the stone road mixed with the sound of water. This environment is exactly what I want. You can walk around and take a look at it as you like, and wander in this quiet mountain forest as you like.
The more you go up, the mountain wind is getting stronger. You have to hold down the hat frequently to avoid being blown away by the wind. The chilly feeling when you first entered the mountain is also forgotten in the back of your mind. rejoice.
I like this very much, without being disturbed by others, I can move forward freely, stop a lot at places of interest without being rushed by others. Tired from walking, standing in the stone recess, bathed in the sunshine from among the pines, looking at the red houses and blue tiles at the foot of the mountain in the distance, my body feels warm and my heart is more peaceful. Suddenly I remembered the scene of climbing Laoshan Mountain in Qingdao. That time, thunder was rolling into Laoshan Mountain, clouds and mists were rising halfway up the mountain, and it was raining heavily, so there were no tourists on the mountain road. Climbing Laoshan Mountain in the rain is extremely comfortable, and the same is pure and casual. I did not expect that climbing Panshan Mountain in the wind will reappear this time.
Panshan belongs to the southern branch of the Yanshan Mountains, with middle and low mountain landforms, and the altitude is generally 400-600 meters. The main peak is Hangyue Peak, with an altitude of 864.4 meters. The altitude of Panshan is not high, and the mountain road is relatively gentle, so it is not tiring to walk. In addition, the tourism resources here are quite mature, and all kinds of auxiliary facilities are very complete. The air in the mountain is quite fresh, and the negative ions explode. Fully enjoy the slow pace and the fun of the mountains.
Pulling off the mask, he sucked in fresh air almost greedily, cleaning the dirt in his lungs, and his steps became lighter. Looking up, he had already reached the holy land of Wansong.
There are deep valleys, dense forests, jagged rocks, gurgling springs, and it is far and quiet.
On the cliffs, among the jungles, and by the banks of mountain streams, stone pagodas stand in front of you. The ancient pagodas built on the stone dam platform are well-proportioned and magnificent. This is the Panshan Pagoda Forest, located on the south side of Wansong Temple, consisting of ninety-nine tomb towers of eminent monks in the past. These stone pagodas are carved from granite, some are square, some are hexagonal, and some are bowl-shaped; Carved with lotus flowers, some are smooth without lines. On the upper part of the tower forest stands the main tower, the Taiping Zen Master Tower, which is an ancient brick structure with clear and vivid relief patterns on the bricks.
The mountain road is winding, the peaks are turning, drunk and smelling the fresh smell of grass and trees, stepping on the mountain road, beating the heart drum, and immersing yourself in this Zen-like landscape for a "joy trip".
(Borrowing network animation)
"Praise the world without persuading it, and the world's condemnation without persuasion. It is enough to determine the distinction between inside and outside, and to argue about the state of honor and disgrace. It is innumerable in the world. Although, there is still no tree. Also....Therefore it is said: Perfect people have no self, gods and men have no merit, and sages have no name." (Zhuangzi "Xiaoyaoyou")
There is a red mountain gate between Wansong, and the roof of the main hall is looming. This is Wansong Temple.
Wansong Temple was originally named Li Jing'an, and it got its name because Li Jing, a famous general in the Tang Dynasty, lived here for a long time. Li Jing is the little demon king of the world, the father of Nezha who yelled "I can't help my fate", King Tota. Emperor Kangxi visited Panshan for forty-four years (the Emperor Kangxi visited Panshan 9 times during his reign) and saw the temple surrounded by Wansong, so he named it "Wansong Temple".
Wansong Temple is the largest temple in Panshan. The huge camel stone in front of the gate is engraved with Qianlong's poem "Tianpan is everywhere, and Wansong is my heart. The temple building sits empty and emerald, and the sound of nature is chic." And other poems, praise the elegance of Wansong Temple environment. There is also a green brick archway engraved with ""Jingdong No. 1 Mountain".
The mountain gate does not look like the mountain temple that Monkey King changed in "Havoc in Heaven".
During the epidemic, the gate of Wansong Temple was not opened. Walking around the side stone steps, you can see the bell tower and drum tower on both sides. Tourists can ring the bell nine times for 10 yuan.
On the high platform built of stones is the Daxiong Palace. Lying quietly in the emerald green of ten thousand pines.
"Entering the ancient temple in the early morning, the first sun shines on the high forest. The winding path leads to a secluded place, and the meditation room is deep in flowers and trees. The mountain light is pleasant to the birds, and the shadows of the lake are empty of the heart. Everything is silent, but the remaining bells and chimes sound." At this time, this poem can very well describe The artistic conception of this scene.
Practice must be in a remote and secluded place, so that you can get rid of the troubles in your heart through asceticism and realize Zen.
Wansong Temple has a cable car leading to Hangyue Peak (Yunzhao Temple), and the journey takes about 28 minutes. I originally wanted to challenge my fear of heights, but because the mountain wind was too strong today, the cable car leading to the main peak was out of service, and I didn't know whether to be happy or disappointed. Maybe this is God's will, let nature take its course, not against the heart. Coincidentally, when I went to Laoshan Mountain last summer, I also purchased a group-buying cable car ticket. When I arrived, the thunder was rolling and the cable car was out of service. When I went down the mountain, the sunny cable car was still there. God knew that I was afraid of heights, so he deliberately followed my wishes.
The higher you go, the stronger the mountain wind. When they reached Li Jing's sword dancing stage, they were already unable to stand. I staggered and tried to walk towards the main peak, but the gravel was flying on the ridge, so I had to give up the idea of climbing to the top. Reluctantly, I retreated to the Sword Dance Platform, stood in front of the mountain watcher’s house to avoid the wind, and when I was a little younger, I lay down on the boulder and looked towards the peak, and took a picture of the Dingguang Buddha Stupa on Hangyue Peak.
When going down the mountain, I hesitated at a fork in the road. A closed intersection was opened by the wind, and a sign was erected next to it indicating "downhill road". After thinking about it, I chose to follow the sign to go down the mountain. Practice has proved that the downhill road is not as good as the uphill road. The slightly dilapidated stone steps are also relatively steep, and the continuous stone steps are relatively long. Pay special attention to your knees and ankles, so it is better not to walk here. It wasn't until I got to the bottom of the mountain that I realized that this road should have been fenced and closed, and it was not allowed to go up and down the mountain. The strong wind blew the opening and became a road, and the sign on the mountain must have been blown by the wind and pointed in the wrong direction. .
The infinite scenery is on the dangerous peak. The road became more and more silent, only the sound of wind and pines came intermittently.
The pines beat the war drums, and the flags fluttered to shake the cloud peaks.
When sitting on the stone steps for a nap, a group of squirrels came out to play and added a lot of excitement to the silent mountain.
The descent was fast, and it was still early, so I drove straight to Dule Temple.
Dule Temple is about half an hour away from Panshan Mountain. One thing to pay special attention to is the pedestrian street in front of Dule Temple. I was driving along the Great Wall Avenue from south to north. When I drove to the intersection, I followed the signs and entered Wuding Street, the road in front of Dule Temple Gate. When I entered, I found that this is a pedestrian street with a time slot, and there are many parks inside. Motor vehicle, so I want to park the car here. After taking a closer look, there is a parking lot in front of the intersection. Thinking about it, it is better to park in the parking lot (it is 2 yuan to pay the fee, which is too cheap!) So I turned around and entered the parking lot. When I came back two days later, I found out that I was tricked, and 3 points were deducted for violating the prohibition sign. (I really don’t understand why, because there is a left-turn instruction at the intersection, and there is no prohibition sign at the intersection. I only found the prohibition sign about ten meters inside. After entering by mistake, I came out immediately, and did not enter the archway. I am negotiating with the relevant departments. )
Dule Temple is located in Jixian County. It is the first batch of key cultural relics protection units announced in China. It is a thousand-year-old ancient temple well-known both at home and abroad. One of the monasteries. Liang Sicheng said that Dule Temple: it inherits the legacy of Tang and Song Dynasties, and inherits the construction of Song Dynasty. It is an important material for studying the transformation of Chinese architecture, and it is also a rare national treasure.
Dule Temple was first built in the tenth year of Emperor Zhenguan of Tang Dynasty. Anlu Mountain rebelled against the Tang Dynasty, and the place where he swore to be a teacher was in Dule Temple. Because Anlu Mountain wanted to be alone but not with the people, it was named "Dule Temple". There is a Qianlong Palace in Dule Temple, which is the place where the emperors of the Qing Dynasty took a rest on the way to visit Dongling Mausoleum, and it is also the only remaining palace in Tianjin.
The existing Dule Temple Mountain Gate and Guanyin Pavilion are both built in the Liao Dynasty.
Located behind the mountain gate, Guanyin Pavilion is 23 meters high. It is the oldest wooden structure pavilion in my country. From the outside, Guanyin Pavilion has two floors, but inside it is actually three floors. There is a windowless compartment between the upper and lower floors. The brackets of Guanyin Pavilion are made of huge materials and come in various forms. The eleven-faced Avalokitesvara of the Liao Dynasty in the hall of Guanyin Pavilion is 16 meters high and is the highest existing colored clay statue. The four walls are painted with exquisite murals of Sixteen Arhats and Two Heavenly Kings. Although some places have been mottled, the exquisiteness of the paintings can still be seen.
As a layman in architecture, painting and aesthetics, I think Dule Temple and Guanyin Pavilion are very, very worth visiting. First of all, the 16-meter-high colored clay statue of Guanyin Bodhisattva is the largest statue of Guanyin Bodhisattva in China, and it is a treasure of clay sculpture art. The second is the brick and wood bucket arches and exquisite architecture of ancient Chinese architecture. Then there are the exquisite murals in the style of Tang Dynasty. These are extremely rare ancient Chinese art treasures.
It is said that it was written by the poet Li Bai (picture borrowed)
Emperor Qianlong's imperial pen (picture borrowed)
Leaving Dule Temple, by the way, turn around in Jizhou City, and then go back to Nankai on Jinji Expressway. It was smooth along the way, because there was a slight traffic jam due to road repairs.
postscript:
From 1984 to 2020, in the past 40 years, many people still remember many things. This time I revisited the old place, followed the footprints left by my classmates when they were teenagers, and slowly recalled places such as Rusheng, Tiancheng Temple Yilan Pavilion, Dule Temple, etc. It seemed that the laughter at that time was still echoing in my ears. Times have changed, things have changed, people have changed, and now everyone is busy in various positions for the cause of the country. During the epidemic, several people in the public security department and medical units continued to fight on the front line without rest.
Jizhou has also changed a lot. The small dirt road in front of the Dule Temple and the rugged mountain road before the entrance to the scenic spot have disappeared, replaced by commercial blocks and standardized scenic facilities.
Although there are some shortcomings in this trip, everything is the best arrangement, and there is no need to ask for perfection. When the water is full, the moon will be full and the moon will be full. "Holding and gaining is not as good as it is. If you are sharp, you can't keep it for a long time. If you are full of gold and jade, you can't keep it. If you are rich and proud, you will leave the blame. Retire after success. The way of heaven."
"Victorious day seeks fragrance by the shore of Surabaya, and the boundless scenery is new for a while. When you know the east wind side, it will always be spring." Although Zhu Xi has never been to Surabaya, he can express his pursuit of the holy Tao through spring tours in Surabaya, and now Panshan is fascinating. , will definitely be able to blow the spring breeze, colorful.
(Remarks: The content was transferred to my Weixin official account with the same name, so the pictures will be deleted if they cannot be used here. If you are interested, you can search my Weixin official account with the same name to view.)
