Going to an appointment with Ali丨Tibet's "Tibet" I finally came

words written in front

Tibet has always been a place I love and hate in my tips. There is no way to refuse the extreme scenery here, and there is a mysterious humanistic style. There should be no one who does not love such a place. But it is precisely because of such a scene that Gao Fan follows him like a shadow. I still remember being taught a lesson by Gao Fan when I first came here. This is also the reason why I have been hesitant to come again even though I love it badly. Tibet has always been placed in the tips as the bottom of the box.

Until this year, I originally planned to travel to Europe, but it fell through due to well-known reasons (helpless face). When looking for weeding fields in China, I found that this year is really a year of weeding. I went to Foshan, which is closer, and Tibet, which is farther away, should be put on the agenda? Just came across another video: the only 40 glacier that humans can approach at close range, Mount Everest that the world admires, Kailash Rinpoche, the god of mountains, and the Guge Dynasty that disappeared overnight... Ali entered like this my sight.

Ngari is called the Tibet of Tibet, and the Ngari Ring Road is also known as the most expensive "self-driving" route in China. If 318 is the entry point for self-driving in Tibet, then Ngari should be the last paradise for self-driving madmen in Tibet. The average altitude of this road is more than 4000 , living is not good, food is not good, the road is not good, and oxygen is less, but it is the ultimate goal of many scenery lovers.

I still remember the first time I went to Tibet because of high rebellion, and finally went to Nyingchi because of physical reasons. My character broke out and touched the tail of peach blossoms. Until now, I still clearly remember the morning when I was walking in the peach forest in Suosong Village: Namjagbarwa is looming in the clouds and mist, and the highland barley planted by Tibetans has just emerged at the foot, swaying in emerald green under the sunshine, with pink and tender peach blossoms in full bloom, and the tip of the nose is the unique coldness of the plateau. The air is dry, and unknown birds are singing in my ears... Such a moment can be remembered for a lifetime, can Ali also have such a moment, which I will always remember?

Yes, I will remember that on Mount Everest we experienced a vehicle explosion, waiting for rescue, and finally met the most beautiful Mount Everest sunset miraculously; when we walked down Siling Glacier after taking pictures, we supported each other bit by bit Watching the sunset at Dangre Yumco, the holy lake at the inn in Wenbunan Village; the bend on the road to Zhaga Earth Forest, which is more terrifying than Mount Everest, and the guards at the border station with no network We chatted for a few cents; in Gang Rinpoche, we ran out of the village to take pictures of the starry sky at night, and searched for the holy mountain for a long time, but when we came back to repair the film, it was still crooked; we had to grit our teeth even if we trembled at the sacred elephant gate It was the first time I knew that I was also afraid of heights when I climbed up the edge of the cliff to take pictures; in Renqingxiubucuo we laughed at the unison movement of the uncles and aunts, and we did the same...

It turns out that the memories gained from traveling alone and traveling with a group of people are completely different~

Beautiful image preview

a bunch of interesting people

Teacher Ma: A girl who does everything slowly, a time-lapse lover, and takes time-lapse pictures with her mobile phone all the way. My little friend with pickled peppers and chicken feet, the cat made a "hissing" sound while eating chicken feet in the back seat.

Xiaofan: Brother Zhang’s old friend, she was aloof when she first met her, but after a long time, she was such a funny girl, very A, very cool, very cool, and very cute, especially when she always pissed off Brother Zhang ( It’s not a big deal to watch the excitement, hahaha).

Brother Zhang: Lao Lapiao, a big brother from Henan who has been in Tibet for many years. When I arrived in Lhasa alone in 2018, I accidentally got Brother Zhang’s car. I have been in touch with him for the past few years, so life is worse. Yes, Ali. I found him again.

Cheche: Our car is really a tortuous story. When we first set off, we drove a domineering car. The good times didn’t last long. On the way to Mount Everest, it exploded, so the days after Mount Everest, We are traveling with a Highlander.

What to do to prepare for Ali

【About Ali】

Ali's loop line is also different according to the length of time. There are about 15 days for the Great Northern Line, about 12 days for the Central North Line, and about 6 days for the Xiaobei Line. The Central North Line is our route this time, and "take measures again and again" and "bad roads" are the key words of our line. Along the way, you will pass through Pumoyongcuo, Pekucuo, Laangcuo, Mapangyongcuo, Conacuo, Zarinanmucuo, Renqingxiubucuo, Dangreyongcuo, etc. There are the worst roads and extreme scenery here. Passing through no-man's land, if you are lucky, you can see wild animals such as Tibetan antelopes. In the second half of the road, there is basically no network and no navigation. The roads that have not been traveled need to rely on GPS. It is not recommended for people who have no Ali experience to drive by themselves.

【About the weather】

Ali area is the rainy season from June to August every year. September-October is the most suitable tourist season, and the weather is cold and dry from November to May of the following year.

In Tibet, you just need to see if there is a large-scale forecast of warm and cold air. The weather forecast is based on a rough idea, because if you cross a mountain, it is likely to be another weather.

【About documents】

Border defense certificate: To go to Ali, you must apply for a border defense certificate. Generally, you must apply for it at the place of household registration, and you must go in person.

When writing the location, it is recommended to write everything down, so that you will not be afraid even if you change the itinerary.

If you want to apply for a border defense card in Lhasa, you need to gather 4 people, the itinerary is the same, and 4 people share one card.

【About traffic conditions】

All of our cars are female drivers, more or less people who have driven thousands of kilometers in the north and south of the Yangtze River. It was agreed to change to Zhang Ge, but on the road in Tibet, I was really scared. The road conditions were good in the first few days, but the high-reverse roads - I couldn't drive, Gang Rinpoche began to turn around the mountain - I didn't dare to drive, one bay after another, after climbing one mountain and then another, the last few days there was no Internet washboard Road - can't drive, the key point is that there is no network and no gas station, and we still walk along the edge of no-man's land. After filling up the gas, it is not allowed to cross the road between points and points, otherwise there will be no gas, and it will take half a day without gas I can't see the kind of one person and one car. After a lap, I drove for half an hour, and Xiao Fan drove for an hour. Thinking about the bold words before departure, I smiled awkwardly and politely.

【About high anti】

When it comes to Tibet's high-level rebellion is always with me, I have a deep understanding. At the beginning, my friends dared not tell me the true height, but along the way, I grew up, from a novice who was high-resistance in Lhasa The king who can sleep casually above 5000 meters.

Let's see how I overcome it:

1. Because our route is Ali with an average distance of more than 4000 meters, I flew to Lhasa two days earlier than other friends to adapt. The main work of the two days of arriving early was to eat and sleep.

2. Put the sleeping pillow higher. If the hotel's pillow is not high enough, you can pad your own clothes.

3. Don’t take a bath and wash your hair on the first day (For friends who are going to Tibet for the first time, they don’t know how much altitude they can’t bear. It is recommended not to wash their hair and take a bath, and observe for a day). When you are in Tibet, try to wash in a hotel with Yuba, and be careful not to catch a cold. In Tibet, as long as you catch a cold, you will easily develop pulmonary edema, and then you will have to go home in despair.

4. Be sure to keep warm. If you are cold, you will consume a lot of energy and it is easy to get high.

5. Don't squat if you have nothing to do. You can't squat for a long time. If you squat, you will suffer from hypoxia, headache, and can't get up.

6. If you are also going to Ali, don’t choose a hotel for oxygen in Lhasa, otherwise, if Lhasa can’t resist it, it will be more difficult later.

7. Oxygen. A tank of oxygen in the hospital is 100 yuan/10L. You need to rent an oxygen bottle, which is a long-term preparation, or like us, bring an oxygen generator, but it uses electricity, so it can only be used when sleeping.

【drug】

Rhodiola rosea (no big use, psychological comfort)

American ginseng lozenges (buy rhodiola for free, it’s okay to suck it when you feel uncomfortable)

Glucose hydration solution (drink one when you feel bad, for emergency use, and you must put it in a bag when storing, otherwise it may leak out and harm several suitcases and camera bags like me, embarrassing)

Yunnan Baiyao Plateau Weineng, especially useful! ! ! If I recommend it again, it may be suspected of advertising ~ (Because it is expensive, I only bought three bottles, drank one bottle at Yanghu and the base camp, and returned to Lhasa with the remaining bottle as a gift to the girl in the next room who just arrived in Lhasa. After 20 minutes of drinking, it will be relieved, and it can last for 4-5 hours)

EVE painkillers (painkillers containing ibuprofen hurt the stomach, this eve has less side effects, take a tube for 12 hours when you have a headache)

The above are essential medicines for high reaction, and the following are standing medicines:

Ganmao Granules (This is a must-have, the temperature difference in plateau is large, and it is especially easy to catch a cold. As long as you find a little sign, you must drink Ganmao Granules to prevent colds)

Grass coral spray (along the way, I feel that this is very useful, whether it is a throat discomfort or an ulcer, here is specifically referring to Xiaofan, it is a must-have medicine at home)

Effervescent tablets (supplementary vitamins, although I didn’t take them, I returned to Lhasa and sent them to the girl in the next room)

Jiebai Pills, Bao Chai Pills, Huoxiangzhengqi Dropping Pills (I have a strange problem, my high fever is accompanied by stomach pain, this is a nonsensical symptom I found in Gannan last year, so I also brought a lot of gastrointestinal medicine)

That's about it. Basically, along the way of our itinerary, we will go to the town every other day. There are pharmacies, supermarkets and restaurants, so it is good to have some standing ones.

【Common items】

Neck pillow: The drive is too long, so you must bring a neck pillow for sleeping.

Travel sheets: After entering the Ngari area, more than half of the accommodations are Tibetan houses, and the sanitation is average. It is very necessary to have a bed sheet with a compartment, especially for the accommodation in the base camp and Renduo.

Thermos cup: Drink plenty of water and hot water on the plateau.

Electric kettle: Some hotels do not provide electric kettles, so you should bring a portable kettle for boiling water to ensure hot water.

Socket: It is very necessary for us with a bunch of equipment.

Toiletries (shampoo, shower gel, laundry detergent, toothpaste, toothbrush): Many hotels do not have the conditions to provide disposable products, so it is recommended to bring them by yourself.

Disposable underwear/disposable towels: Many accommodations in Ali do not have the conditions for changing and washing, so it is recommended to bring disposable ones.

Compression bags: Because you have to bring a lot of thick coats, you need to compress them to gain more space when packing your luggage.

Lipstick/body lotion: The weather is too dry. When we saw that brother Zhang can take out a lipstick with him, we understand why we must bring it. It must be not a decoration.

Sleeping bag: If you have a large luggage space, you can bring a sleeping bag. Although it is not necessary for camping, it is more practical than a compartment sheet.

【About Fees】

cost per person

Large transportation: 3500 yuan

Airfare to and from Lhasa

Chartered car: 6000 yuan

1500 yuan/day, 12 days.

Accommodation: 1800 yuan

The average per capita is 120 a day, and sometimes the bed fee is 80-100. Especially since the price had started to increase when we went. Except for the two months of 9-10, it should be relatively cheaper at other times.

Meal: 1800 yuan

Breakfast is basically 20 yuan, lunch (noodles, dumplings, etc.) is basically 30 yuan, dinner is 60-80 yuan per person, and you can basically eat a full meal a day. Sometimes you can only instant noodles in places with poor conditions. Lhasa The consumption is relatively high, basically 80 per capita.

Tickets: 500 yuan

160 (Mount Everest) + 80 (per capita vehicle environmental protection fee on Mount Everest) + 80 (Holy Elephant Tianmen) + 120 (Zari Nanmu Co) + 65 (Guge Dynasty)

The line is very long, please check the itinerary first

Day 1: Lhasa - Samye Monastery - Yamdrok Yongcuo - Dalong Town

Lhasa-Shannan area

Day 2: 40 Glacier-Pumo Yongcuo-Karola Glacier-Manla Reservoir-Gyantse Castle-Shigatse 

Shannan - Shigatse 

Day 3: Gyatso-La Mountain-Everest Base Camp-Basong Village

A certain day in Shigatse 

Day 4: Shishapangma Peak-Pekutso-Saga 

Tingri a Saga 

Day 5: Saga, Yigang Rinpoche, Manasarovar (Holy Lake), Laang Cuo (Ghost Lake), Tarqin Town

Saga-Talqin Town

Day 6: Tarqin Town, Dome Silver City, Zada ​​Earth Forest, Guge Dynasty Starry Sky

Tarqin Town-Zada County

Day 7: Guge Dynasty, Piyang Grottoes, Xiayi Valley, Shiquan River 

Zhada County - Shiquan River 

Day 8: Shiquanhe Town, Geji County, Xiongba Township, Yare Township, Renduo Township

Shiquan River - Renduo Township

Day 9: Renduo Township, Renqingxiu Bucuo, Zabuye Salt Lake, Cuoqin County

Renduo Township - Cuoqin County

Day 10: Cuoqin, Zarinanmucuo, Dangreyongcuo, Wenbunan Village

Wenbunan Village, Cuoqin County

Day 11: Wenbunan Village - Cuo'e - Selincuo - Bangor 

Wenbo South Village-Bangor 

Day 12: Bangor - Holy Elephant Tianmen (Nam Co ) - Lhasa 

Day 13-15: Lhasa

▶Part1: Ali's measures

Have you ever seen blue? Ali's "mistake again and again" will definitely refresh your understanding of blue. Ali's Central North Line has the reputation of "mistake again and again". We always felt that the lake we saw today was the most beautiful along the way, but we didn't expect that the lake we saw the next day would be even more beautiful, so we refreshed it again and again. In the cognition of the United States, I have gone through Ali's mistakes again and again.

📍Yangzhuo Yongcuo丨Good guy, here comes a dismount

Tickets: Free (there is a fee for the viewing platform, we went to the mountainside, so we charged a parking fee of 5 yuan)

Altitude: 4441 meters

Coordinates: Provincial Highway 307, Gongga County, Shannan City

There are four viewing platforms (2 on Gangbala Mountain for panoramic views, and 2 by Yanghu Lake)

The holy lake closest to Lhasa is also the largest inland lake at the northern foot of the Himalayas. Its area is equal to 70 Hangzhou West Lakes.

After the car stopped in the parking lot, when the door opened, a gust of wind blew into the car. As soon as one leg stepped down, it immediately felt that something was wrong. Glucose and Gaoyuan Weineng each drank one, and then they were supported to go Go to the viewing platform. To put it bluntly, my calves were shaking at that time, and I couldn't breathe because of the high altitude, so I walked to the highest point step by step, and crossed the slope. Instantly cured my high reaction. I slowly moved towards the platform again. It was about four o'clock in the afternoon when I arrived at Yanghu Lake, and the light began to backlight, but fortunately, the impact was not too great. My friends ran down the viewing platform as if nothing happened. I walked halfway and saw that there were only 3-4 floors of stairs. I couldn’t get up, so I sat down on the steps and gasped for breath. Looking at the blue in front of him. Thinking in my heart, my journey of Ali started like this, as I expected, the beginning of love and hate.

Another viewing platform by the lake has prayer flags, mani piles, and possibly yaks.

After resting for a few minutes, I slowly climbed back to the car and took out the drone in my bag. Since I can't walk, let's watch the scenery in the sky. Don’t forget to install one even if you are high-reverse~

After retracting the plane, we continued to move forward, all the way downhill, and my altitude seemed to improve a lot as the car went all the way down. Yanghu Lake is very big, and we drove along the lake for a long time. We stopped to rest as we passed a meadow circled by herdsmen. Clusters of small purple flowers the size of a finger bloom on the yellow grass that has begun to fall, dotting the grass by the lake.

I remember that I posted this picture in Moments of that day, the setting sun is dotted, people dot the lake, and the lake makes people. This should be the most beautiful moment in Yanghu Lake.

Brother Zhang climbed onto the roof of the car, let’s take a picture of him~

📍Manla Reservoir丨Meet the autumn of Shigatse

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 4250 meters

Coordinates: Gyantse County, Shigatse City

After entering Shigatse, we gradually began to see farmland along the road, and mid-September happens to be the autumn harvest season for Tibetans. Along the road, we passed a lot of fields that were busy with farming. Looking at the harvest scene in full swing, we also wanted to join in the fun. So Zhang Ge stopped in a field for a while. Before I got out of the car and walked to the field, I heard someone calling me. When I turned around, the two had already posed for me to take a photo. Sure enough, he is a small expert working in the field.

Catching a little Mengxin, the adults are working, and she/he is obediently watching with an apple in their arms. Looking at our eyes with curiosity and fear, I forgot to take candy when I got out of the car, and it would not be worthwhile to walk back.

Manla Reservoir is known as the first dam in Tibet. The viewing platform is on the top of the mountain, and the prayer flags of the whole mountain are hung. When the wind blows, it seems that the whole mountain is roaring at you. Looking at the top of the mountain, this is not like a reservoir. In the south of us, reservoirs are also common. The main business is water storage, irrigation, power generation, and flood control. People rely on business capabilities rather than appearance, but the Manla Reservoir and The lake that passed by along the way is so similar, the sun shines like a piece of blue-green emerald, I just want to put it in my arms and take it away.

Xiaofan waited for me for a long time because he wanted to take pictures, and got out of the car again, probably to take me back, so I took the ready-made little model to take two pictures. On the way back, Xiao Fan actually got into another overbearing car by mistake, and was almost abducted by other men. Hahahaha~

📍Pumoyongcuo丨Look at and cherish Maiden Lake

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 5010 meters

Coordinates: Langkazi County, Shannan City

Pumo Yongcuo is the lake with the highest altitude in Tibet, because Pumo means a girl in Tibetan, so Pumo Yongcuo is also called the Lake of Girls. And we almost missed such a lake of maidens. After coming out of the 40 glacier, everyone was in the exhaustion period after the excitement. When I passed by Pumoyong when I entered the glacier in the morning, I said it and went to see it. I didn’t expect that when I came out, I almost missed it because I lost interest. Fortunately, Teacher Ma insisted. We must turn a corner to take a look, so we were chased all the way by a raining cloud. Because it is close to the border, you need a border defense card to enter. There are almost no cars, and the population is so sparse that it is too small. We chased several snow-topped peaks in the distance all the way, and the scenery outside the window flashed like a movie screen. Because I am still in the early stage of Yigaofan, 40 Glacier has consumed too much energy, and I have not eaten lunch, so I am gorgeous Gaofan again. These poor photos are when they got out of the car to play, and I spread them on Taken while in the car. Let's see and cherish it.

As I write this, I can still think of the helplessness and discomfort I suffered from lack of oxygen at that time. It really was the high-rebellion period when my eyes were in heaven and I was in hell.

📍Peku Cuo丨Walk shoulder to shoulder with Shishapangma Peak

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 4590 meters

Coordinates: Nyalam County, Shigatse Region

Peiku Co is the largest inland lake in the Mount Everest Reserve. When the weather is fine, you can see the reflection of Mount Shishapangma from the viewing platform of Peku Co, while the glaciers of Mount Shishapangma and its mountains melt. Water is the main source of Lake Peikuco. When walking by the lake, the weather was fine, and we took a detour to see the flock of sheep. The white patches on the grass were the salinity of the lake.

It's a pity that when we arrived, the wind was strong, and a baby of my tonnage felt like it was about to be blown away. The clouds in the distance firmly covered the Shishapangma Peak that I was thinking about. Although the altitude is not as high as that of Pumoyong Co, the cloud cover of Peku Co is terribly low, and it has begun to experience the days of heavy rain, exposure and strong wind in one day. In Tibet, there is no need to read the weather forecast, because the climate is not good after crossing a mountain. same.

📍Laangcuo丨Looking at the holy mountain but not a single blade of grass

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 4573 meters

Coordinates: Pulan County, Ngari District

When talking about Laang Co, you have to bring Mapang Yumco, which is separated from it by a mountain. The lake of Laang Co is dark blue and is a saltwater lake, while Manasarovar is a freshwater lake. There are no plants on the lakeside of Laang Co. , without cattle and sheep, everything is lifeless, so people also call Laon a "ghost lake". Gang Rinpoche can be seen in the distance in Laon Co, and there can be reflections when there is no wind. The shore facing Gang Rinpoche is full of mani piles, large and small. Because of the light and shadow, the color of the lake surface is sometimes darker and sometimes lighter, but the middle body is generally darker than the nearby Mapang Yumco.

Is there any invincible lake view room~

📍Masang Yumco丨Ali's favorite lake, there is no "one"

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 4588 meters

Coordinates: Pulan County, Ngari District

Manasarovar is translated as "Invincible Jasper Lake" in Tibetan, and it is the place Xuanzang called "Xitian Yaochi" in "Da Tang Western Regions". Manasarovar is called a holy lake by the three religions. There are many Buddhist temples built along the lake, and there are still 8 preserved, which shows how important Manasarovar is in people's hearts.

The smoke billowed and drove for ten minutes. When we all thought we were going to drive to the lake, Brother Zhang stopped on the edge of a cliff. There was a snow-capped mountain on the opposite side of the lake. We were on a high ground, looking down at the horses next to us. Yongcuo, in the distance is the snow-capped mountains with deep clouds, such a beautiful picture is indescribable. There are also a lot of mani piles on the shore. There are a lot of people here, but they got off the bus and hurriedly took pictures and left immediately. Although there were many people, they walked wave after wave, and we were the most persistent car. . After taking pictures, I wish I could take a chair and sit by the lake for an afternoon.

Passing by this temple on the way to the lake, I can’t remember its name, but it must be one of the 8 temples around the lake, silently guarding Manasarovar for hundreds of years.

It was still very windy on the mountain, we had to wear down jackets when we got out of the car, and we only took off our jackets when we were taking pictures.

When I came to the lake, I looked at the silvery lake water in the sun, and there were water birds singing in the distance. Suddenly, Teacher Ma put down the camera, put on her noise-cancelling headphones, and listened to a few songs. Think briefly about life...

Unlike the ghost lake, the shores of the holy lake Manasarovar are full of lush aquatic plants, and the aquatic plants are also dyed golden in autumn.

On the way back, I passed by another viewing platform. It rained before, and a rainbow appeared at first glance. This day is really wonderful.

There are snow mountains on both sides of the road. With the sun setting in the west, one side is the holy mountain Kailash, and the other side is Namnani Peak. I can't help but come to a group of road movies.

📍Wrong that wrong丨I was blinded by the lake water

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 4380 meters 

Coordinates: Cuona County, Shannan City

Gradually, I got used to the high altitude, and after Gang Rinpoche, I didn't have obvious headaches and insomnia, so I let myself fly at Cuo Na Cuo and jumped hard. There are too many mistakes these days. If it weren't for the wrong name, we might have skipped it. Unexpectedly, the sun was just right, and the sparkling lake water blinded me without glasses.

When you see a white circle on the shore, you know it is a saltwater lake. Ever since I heard that Tibetans would hold water burials when there was no way to bury them in the sky, I have never tasted the water of every lake I passed by.

📍Renqing Xiubucuo丨I want to spend a day by the lake

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 4756 meters

Coordinates: Renduo Township, Zhongba County, Shigatse City

Starting from Renduo Township, it didn’t take long to arrive at Renqing Xiubucuo. From a distance, I saw a mirror of the sky by the lake, and the snow-capped mountains in the distance were reflected in it. There were many other tourists taking pictures. Not far away, an uncle shouted. "1, 2, 1, 1, 2, 1... This is a video. I thought I had no creativity at all. I didn't expect that our car and horses would walk together in the end. Rinchen Xiubucuo shooting.

Teacher Ma, who was wandering around, started to enjoy her time alone at the end of the trip. She often disappeared when she got out of the car, and she didn't walk the same way as us.

A raised small height extending into the lake. This raised boulder is also the origin of the name Rinchen Xiubucuo. It is more than 1 km away from the road. We took a photo at this point and did not pass.

I took a picture of Mr. Ma who was wearing my coat and hadn't returned to the car.

Leave a beautiful back photo.

📍Zabuye Chaka丨I found God's eyeshadow palette

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 4429 meters

Coordinates: Within the territory of Renduo Township, Longer District, Zhongba County, Shigatse City

He is one of the three largest lithium salt lakes in the world. Compared with Chaka Salt Lake, almost no one knows about his fame, but he is beautiful beyond his own realm. I heard from Tibetan friends that Zabuye Chaka will appear pink and dark red with the change of weather and seasons. It is also the only pink lake in Tibet, and it is also the title of God's eyeshadow palette.

On the way to Zabuye Chaka, I have been sleeping, the kind of sleep in the dark, when I opened my eyes and saw the "eyeshadow palette", I was still a little dazed. Brother Zhang said that it was not beautiful enough for the next time, and asked me to take another shot If I didn’t shoot, I shouted “Shoot, of course I want to shoot” before the saliva at the corner of my mouth could be wiped off. So I quickly took out the plane, and it was really beautiful in the sky. Although the colors were not particularly colorful, it was already very layered.

I regret not staying longer. I walked into the salt lake and looked at it in the sky. The blue part of the lake, walking in and taking pictures should not be worse than Chaka Salt Lake~

📍Zari Nanmucuo 丨 Take back the collected tickets

Tickets: 120 yuan

Altitude: 4613 meters

Coordinates: Northeast of Cuoqin County, Ali District

The third largest lake in Tibet originated from Cuoqin Zangbu in Gangdise Mountains. Entering Cuoqin has already started to walk the washboard road. When he was so confused that he doubted his life, Brother Zhang turned a corner, and there was a dazzling blue in front of him. Zari Nanmu was wrong.

Looking down from the air, the color of the lake is actually so layered, dark blue, light blue, green orchid, emerald green, yellow, white, brown, transitioning layer by layer.

The blue lake water and the golden sand on the shore are interlaced to form a beautiful arc

Hi, friends from the other side of the mountain~

I ran into an old couple with 3 dogs driving by themselves. They said that this is the fourth time they have driven into Tibet by themselves. They are really courageous, because they always get lost when they enter Cuoqin, and they want to go with our car. I also asked Brother Zhang to help them book accommodation together. We saw that these three dogs were loved too much, and we wished to be together immediately. Unfortunately, the water tank of their car broke down that day, so they couldn't continue to walk with us. A loving couple, three brave and enthusiastic dogs. When you go out, you can often meet people with stories on the road. It would be great if everyone had the courage to live the way they want.

I found the mountain where the dogs and their owners were photographed to be beautiful, so I went too. Hahahaha~

The side facing the sun is still crystal clear lake water.

Ben Ting, in a wild state, got out of the car without taking off the neck pillow

📍Dangre Yongcuo丨Today's sunset is purple

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 4540 meters

Coordinates: Nyima County, Nagqu District

Dangre Yumco is one of the three holy lakes recognized by the Tibetans. On the night of staying in Wenbunan Village, I could feel that the surrounding Tibetan compatriots are extremely devout and respectful to it. At the same time, Tangre Yumco is also the deepest lake in Tibet. Dangreyongcuo Lake is shaped like a vajra, with a round top, a middle and a thin bottom, surrounded by mountains, and the snow on the top of Darguo Mountain in the south does not melt all the year round.

Brother Zhang took me all the way to a high viewing platform. On a small rocky mountain, there are piles of mani piles and hada. There are quite a lot of tourists taking pictures, because it is a high rocky mountain with corners. There are many corners, and a dozen long feet are a great film, so everyone is carefully looking for angles to take pictures. I dare not go where this aunt went.

I don’t know why after I arrived in Tibet, I stepped on the air, stepped on skirts, and tripped over stones. The chassis suddenly became weak, so I was always careful every time I climbed stones.

After we took pictures on this rock, a whole group of aunts came to take this position to take pictures 

I thought it was an eagle, but Brother Zhang dismissively said it was a crow 

When we arrived at Wenbu South Village, when we suddenly had hot water and pumped water for squatting toilets, we were overjoyed. The rooms here are lake-view rooms. In Wenbu South Village, we were very satisfied. After eating and drinking, we ran to the roof to wait. sunset. I didn’t expect such a beautiful scenery. We were standing on the roof of the inn. There was a building in the village in front of it, high-voltage lines running around, and behind the house there were Tibetans who had just harvested and were playing with highland barley. It was so wonderful~

📍Cuo'e Bird Island丨Is this Ali's Maldives?

Tickets: Free

4562 meters above sea level

Coordinates: within the territory of Shenza County in the south of Qiangtang

Co'e is known as the satellite lake of Serin Co. There are 6 large and small islands in Co'e Lake. It is a habitat for plateau birds. The bird breeding season is from April to August every year. When we arrived, we didn't know Is it already flying through the winter, and I basically didn't see it. If it weren't for the toilet, we might have missed it gorgeously. I’ve been in dy all summer and watched everyone use Qinghai’s “Maldives” but when I saw the wrong word, I thought of Maldives too.

With such pure lake water, that XX mountain spring can come here to advertise~

In fact, many times, after taking pictures, I really want to put down the camera and sit down to listen and watch, even if it is just to bask in the sun for a while, but we are on the road every day, such leisure is almost a luxury.

This time I also brought props to take pictures with great care.

📍Selincuo丨I have been around it all day long

Tickets: 30/car (it was said that it was an environmental protection fee, Brother Zhang also negotiated the price)

Altitude: 4530 meters

Coordinates: Shenza County and Bangor County

Sering Co is currently the largest lake in Tibet. It used to be named the largest lake in Namtso, but then Sering Co "grew up" and now covers 2,323 square kilometers. Selincuo has the world's largest nature reserve for black-necked cranes. In addition, snow leopards, Tibetan antelopes, argali, Tibetan wild donkeys, and Tibetan snow chickens are also frequent visitors to Selincuo.

Brother Zhang said that our 11th day was a day when we walked around the colored forest and encountered wild animals including Tibetan antelopes. Turned a corner and saw a lake, which was Selin Co, turned over a mountain and saw a lake, which was Selin Co again...I met and said goodbye to it all day long. When we arrived at Selincuo, we started to take National Highway 317. After driving the washboard road for two days, we suddenly became excited and started looking for animals while lying on the edge of the window.

The viewing platform is at the top of the mountain, and the Highlander can only drive up to the mountainside, so we can only climb the mountain by ourselves. The slope is similar to the slope of the mountain at the Holy Elephant Tianmen, which is quite steep, but only when you climb to the top can you see the ultimate scenery. There is a beach at the foot, the lake beats the shore, and we can hear the waves clearly on the mountain.

Because of the depth of the lake, the color is different. The lakes along the way are more beautiful and more shocking than the last. I always feel that what I saw today is the most beautiful, but this theory was overturned the next day.

The green plants that grow tenaciously on the top of the mountain are relatively rare in places with high altitudes. I don’t know which bird brought the seeds to the top of the mountain.

It can be seen very intuitively that the viewing platform we are at is actually a cliff on the top of the mountain. When I wanted to look down at the top of the mountain, I almost crawled on the rocks and stretched out the camera tremblingly. After Tibet, I realized that I am also afraid of heights.

"Se Lin Cuo, today, I only have you in my eyes, and we can't see anything else wrong."

There is also a viewing platform on the side of the road, and we stopped for a rest. If it is summer, the large pasture in front of the lake should be very spectacular. It should be comparable to Inner Mongolia. If you are lucky, you can also see Tibetan antelope and Tibetan gazelle.

📍Holy Elephant Tianmen丨Finally here to pull the weeds～

Tickets: 80 yuan (reserved three days in advance) Tickets for Namtso next to it: 120 yuan

Altitude: 4800

Coordinates: Nagqu City Bangor County Tibet Namtso Nature Reserve

As early as 18 years ago, the Holy Elephant Tianmen was planted. If you want to compare Mount Everest with the Holy Elephant, I would rather come to the Holy Elephant Tianmen, so I came here. Starting from Bangor, after walking a section of road, there is another section of washboard road. Fortunately, after so many days, I have been immune. Shaking and shaking, I am already imagining what we will eat when we return to Lhasa tonight, and drink some wine to make up for the hardships of so many days. Just thinking about the delicious food at night, I reached the gate of the holy elephant. Brother Zhang said that there are three stones in front, so Teacher Ma and I got out of the car to take pictures. When we got out of the car, we were too cold. I heard from friends who came here before that Namco was very windy, so I changed the skirt , put on warm clothes, but when I got out of the car, I was still freezing.

In the distance is the Nyainqentanglha Mountains still in the clouds.

The first thing I came to was a mountain next to the Tianmen of the Holy Elephant, which is the commanding height overlooking the Tianmen of the Holy Elephant and the Nyainqentanglha Mountains. The altitude itself is quite high here, and the slope of this mountain is quite steep, so I was lazy and didn't bring a tripod. As a result, Mr. Ma opened the tripod and directly used it as a crutch. It was a wave of hype, I admire it. On the way to climb the mountain, at such an angle, between the two mountains, we could see the sacred elephant Tianmen, and we met like this. We stumbled and slowly climbed to the top of the mountain. Amid a wave of exclamations, I saw the holy elephant Tianmen that I was thinking about. They are all elephants. The elephants on Elephant Trunk Hill in Guilin are more delicate, and the holy elephants on the side of Namtso are more majestic.

Trembling, I climbed onto the rock to take a picture, and when I moved to sit on the rock, my palms were already covered with sweat. This is the first time I know that I am also afraid of heights. If Hui Ling and Jiaoyan find out, they will probably laugh at me too. At this point, I only dared to sit on the rock for a while, but I didn’t expect that when I changed to Teacher Ma, she sat on the side wearing a skirt, and the effect of the photo was surprisingly good, so I was heartbroken and climbed up again I took a new set, don't look at me smiling so happily, my heart is shaking all the time. . . .

The most difficult thing is to lift the feet up to take pictures, because the feet are off the ground and the center is different. I was shaking anyway.

The Tanggula Mountains in the distance, I don't know which mountain is the highest, because they are all in the clouds.

Back in the car, Brother Zhang turned a few corners three times, five times and two times, and sent us to the Holy Elephant. I didn’t rush to get there, and took off the drone first. Yes, there are at least five planes flying around it from all angles. I could have flown a little longer. Looking at the fleet in the sky, I didn't dare to blow up another one, so I took it with my camera.

Walking towards it was like going through some kind of ritual. There were too many places where weeds were pulled this year, and I was a little numb at the back, but on the way towards the holy elephant, I seemed to have regained that excitement. Just like the expectation of Children's Day when I was a child, this day has finally arrived.

This is the unforgettable doorway

I didn't expect the water in Namtso to be so light. The lake water before was all rich in various blues, but when I came to Namtso, it could be called a small and fresh blue-green.

The backlit snow mountain background cannot be let go.

The lake beat against the rocks on the shore like sea water. If it weren't for the snow-capped mountains in the distance, I would have thought I had come to the seaside when I heard the sound.

When listening to the sound of the waves and looking at the snow-capped mountains, don't forget to leave a footprint

Take another look, see you next time~

▶Part2: Those mountains in Ali

📍40 Glacier丨The expectations are a bit high

Tickets: Free

Altitude: 5300 meters

Coordinates: Near the border between Langkazi County and the border in Shannan area

Glacier 40, also known as Tsogyal Glacier, is named after the No. 40 boundary marker adjacent to China and the border. It is a glacier that can be touched up close without special equipment. Starting from Lhasa, Glacier 40 is the first place where we use the border defense card. You need to press the border defense card when you go in, and you will be returned when you come out. There is a 60km bad road from the checkpoint to the glacier, and the mobile phone signal is intermittent, but there is a signal in the glacier. I don't recommend going in at five o'clock in the afternoon, because there are many wild animals inside, so I don't recommend camping inside, I can only sleep in the car.

As early as 18 years ago, when I first came to Tibet, I heard about the 40 Glacier. At that time, two flags were set up, one was the Holy Elephant Tianmen, and the other was the 40 Glacier. When I met Brother Zhang, he also asked him to take us to 40 Glacier. Glacier, but because several people were highly opposed, I changed to Linzhi, so these two flags have been kept until this year. This time, when I made a schedule with Brother Zhang, I finally put 40 Glacier and Yanghu on the agenda.

Driving in Tibet is really looking at the mountains and running dead horses. I saw the ice tongue from a distance, but I drove for a long time, and finally after rushing up a small slope, the glacier was clearly visible. So after staying up for several hours, we immediately asked to stop (take) rest (photograph).

I am pouting my ass and doing creation

Along the way, I passed several such streams, all of which had to be drenched.

We didn't go in through the regular entrance, we ran to the side of the ice tongue, climbed up a hill, and looked down at the glacier. There is still a big difference from the imagination. The glacier in the imagination is a piece of white, very large, and there may be blue ice in the white. Mixed with it, the glacier looks like dirt, not so white. Sure enough, winter is the most suitable season to see the glacier. The pond at the entrance is also frozen and you can shoot bubbles on the ice.

It can be regarded as completing one of the tips in life, so hurry up and happily take pictures as souvenirs. You must know that half my life was lost when I climbed that slope, I was out of breath.

Take a drone~

Flying along the ice tongue, it is still quite spectacular in the air, but the soil is a bit out of the ordinary.

There is still a piece of blue ice, which is really rare.

The texture of the glacier is really beautiful.

📍Mount Everest丨Our car exploded on Mount Everest

Tickets: 160 yuan/person, 320 yuan/car (environmental protection fee for vehicles entering the reserve), 120 yuan/person (Basong Village-Rongbu Temple round-trip battery car)

Altitude: 5200 meters

Coordinates: Everest Road, Tingri County, Shigatse City

Mount Everest is like this now. Basically, you go to Mount Everest by car. After buying tickets at the gate of Mount Everest National Park and checking the border defense certificate, you can drive in. After countless twists and turns of doubting life, you will When you come to Basong Village, if you live in Rongbuk Monastery, you have to take your luggage for one night, park the car in the village, and then change to a scenic battery car to go from Basong Village to Rongbuk Monastery. If you live in Basong Village, then if you want to go in to see Mount Everest, you have to use a battery car to go in. You can’t see Mount Everest in Basong Village.

From the ticket office to Basong Village, there are two viewing platforms, both of which have a very good view of Mount Everest, and you can also see the 99 bends below.

A piece of "The Climber" made me feel awed by Mount Everest. On the third day of the itinerary, can I go to such a high altitude place? Can I do it if I have to sleep overnight on Mount Everest? The more you take high rebellion seriously, the easier it is to be rebellious. Fortunately, Brother Zhang brought me an oxygen generator. We booked our accommodation late, and we couldn’t live in Rongbuk Monastery. We had to live in the village, but the good thing was Uninterrupted power supply, you can turn on the oxygen generator overnight. So I bit the bullet and went up with everyone. Get ready to sit all night gasping for air.

After buying the tickets, we started on the Panshan Road, but it took only 15 minutes for the car to drive in. We were still at the Jiawula Pass, when we heard the engine "BONG!", and immediately there was a burning smell in the car, and the power was gone. , Brother Zhang immediately stepped aside, got out of the car with double flashes to check, and after making N calls and video consultations, it was confirmed that our overbearing cylinder exploded... the whole car seemed to be struck by lightning feeling, what shall we do? What about Mount Everest? Where are you going to sleep tonight? If I encounter this by self-driving, I will go crazy. Fortunately, there is Brother Zhang. During the peak season of Ali in September, he made an appointment for a replacement car (departing from Lhasa), a trailer (departing from Lhasa), and a temporary delivery for us. Commercial vehicle to the village (from Shigatse).

Come and feel the most desperate voice at that time. . .

When I first found out about the cylinder explosion, I was wondering why it was so bad? Fortunately, Brother Zhang contacted us after he was busy, and we didn't panic. It can be said that we broke down in a situation where there was no way to go to the village, no store behind, and ordinary passing cars couldn't help, but we were very happy. I quickly adjusted my mood, started time-lapse shooting, and ate snacks... When everyone stared in the car, they all felt that this situation was very angry and funny. About 2-3 hours after the breakdown, the car to rescue us arrived. We first took the necessities and got on the commercial vehicle, and went to the village first. Brother Zhang took us there, and then went out of the mountain with the commercial vehicle and returned to the broken down car to wait for the trailer. And change trains, calculate the time to wait until 3 o'clock in the morning. The real situation is that he got the car after 3 o'clock, and he arrived at our accommodation at 4 o'clock. We woke him up when he fell asleep until 12 o'clock, feeling distressed and moved.

We arrived at the first viewing platform by car. We saw that it was just in time for the sunset, so we couldn’t leave. When the little brother who came to pick us up watched us take out our big bags and small bags, he knew that he couldn’t stop us. We are a group of lunatic photographers, so we gave up struggling and helped us carry the equipment. We immediately got stuck on the viewing platform. Among the Himalayas in the distance, the most eye-catching Mount Everest was still covered by clouds. The locals selling prayer flags at the viewing platform looked at the wind direction and said that Mount Everest would come out immediately.

The 99th turn at the foot of the mountain is the road we will take later. If I usually have to worry for a long time, I am afraid of heights and motion sickness, but I don’t feel it at all now. I am in Mount Everest right in front of me. In the excitement, fortunately there was a signal. I sent a video call to my mother. This is the first time I sent a video to her in Tibet. I hope to share what I see at this moment with her. I don’t have to suffer so much. I can see such a beautiful sunset and Mount Everest showing its head.

Many years later, I will still remember that on September 15, 2020, we caught a perfect sunset when we entered Mount Everest.

I heard from Brother Zhang that he asked us about the fact that Mount Everest had not been exposed for several days before, so we also discussed that we should not be able to see Mount Everest during this trip, and we should not enter it.

When the sunset shines on the peak, I feel that the whole viewing platform is quiet. I have seen many mountains and rivers in the past few years, but I have never had such a moment. I feel a little proud, a little fortunate, a little touched, and A little joy... A variety of emotions are intertwined, and my friends around me have seen Mount Everest together, and I will go to see more and more beautiful places in the future~

A sunset glow was also given as a gift, but it is a pity that the glow only shines near Mount Shishapangma, not on Mount Everest.

After shooting the sunset, we returned to the car and let the little brother drive us all the way to Basong Village with 99 bends. I was already a little motion sick, but when I got out of the car, I looked up, my god~ there were stars on my head, so I hurried to the accommodation we booked and took out the self-heating rice I brought to heat up and eat. Every time I go out to wash things, I always look up. The stars are so beautiful, so after eating, I took out the tripod and said that I would go to the door to take pictures of the stars. I didn’t expect that there was a little brother at the door. He lives next door, and has already gone to shoot a round of stars and came back. He chatted a few words and said that he would show me the way, so he went to shoot the starry sky together, and brought a strong flashlight, because of the high reflection and too many people taking pictures It took less than twenty minutes to toss and we went back.

I turned on the oxygen generator all night, but it didn't seem to have much effect. We didn't sleep for 2 hours, because we couldn't find the switch to turn off the light, so the tungsten lamp above our heads was on all night. Teacher Ma and Xiaofan went to Rongbuk Monastery in the morning. I didn’t feel well and I stopped going. I helped Brother Zhang move the car, teased the dogs and cows in the yard, walked a few hundred meters in the village, and flew a drone. , Listening to Brother Zhang snoring, swiping the phone, the whole morning passed like this.

On the way back, I passed another elevated viewing platform, and the mani piles were really spectacular. It's a pity that Mount Everest, which was still cloudless in the morning, was shrouded in clouds again at noon.

📍Kai Rinpoche丨Come to the center of the world

Tickets: Free

Height: 6656 meters

Coordinates: North of Baga Township, Pulan County, Ali District

The sacred mountain recognized by the four religions is known as the king of the sacred mountain and has the title of the center of the world.

Parking shoot

driving shoot

find a camera

I recorded a time-lapse video of the sunset, watched the road and waited to come out at night to take pictures of the starry sky.

When taking pictures, don’t forget to leave a group photo of the portrait.

The other side of Gang Rinpoche is the setting sun, and our Highlander is so handsome in the afterglow.

After eating, I asked Brother Zhang to take the car keys, drove out of the town, and looked for a seat to take pictures of Gang Rinpoche and the starry sky. Several people struggled for a long time, but still missed the shot. The starry sky that night was also full of eyes when I looked up. The Milky Way was visible to the naked eye, and I could see a shooting star from time to time. I saw shooting stars too many times in Tibet.

On the other side, I also left myself a group photo under the Milky Way. In order to prevent the lights from being overexposed, a small partner was made in the car to control the lights to turn off after only flashing twice. It takes three people to take a picture, and I am so busy~

When I woke up, Brother Zhang drove me to see the road to Zhuanshan, and drove to the innermost part that the car could drive. Under this prayer flag, it was the starting point of Zhuanshanren. It takes 2 days to walk a small circle. This season is the harvest season, and there are not many people who come to visit the mountain. One after another, we meet a few tourists of the Han nationality who come to visit the mountain with their bags on their backs.

Under the prayer flags are piles of mani piles.

The swastika on the holy mountain is clearly visible

▶Part3: Zanda Earth Forest

Zanda soil forest is located in Zanda County, Ngari region, Tibet, China. The best developed area is the area centered on Tuolin Town. The total area of ​​Zanda soil forest distribution is about 2464 square kilometers, which is the most typical and distributed area in the world. The soil forest formed by the weathering of the Tertiary strata with the largest area.

The soil forest is a special landform formed in ancient times by the orogeny, and the strata deposited at the bottom of the lake have been cut by flowing water for a long time, and gradually weathered and denuded. On such a landform, more than a thousand years ago, there was a glorious dynasty - Guge. This is also a scenic spot I am looking forward to during this trip to Ali, so that we arranged a sunset when we made the trip. Star shooting, and a morning tour, almost took a day.

📍Marang soil forest丨opened the prelude to the trip to the soil forest

Tickets: Free (on the Internet, it is said that it is a set ticket sold with Guge, but we did not see a place to collect tickets)

Altitude: 3750-4450 meters

Coordinates: Ali District Zanda County

Malang soil forest is part of the Zanda soil forest. The journey to the soil forest is a difficult one. Because I slept late, I missed the opening time of another road. The road was built there, and we had to leave at 6 am to enter, so we went around A whole day of mountain roads, one mountain with N and S curves, we should have climbed hundreds of mountains. What's more worth mentioning is that we passed a checkpoint on the road. When we got off the bus, we found that there was no internet here. There were two staff members at the checkpoint, which consisted of a small room and a public toilet for passers-by. , living here is really unimaginable for us who cannot do without the Internet. And those two staff members, it is rare to see outsiders, and they are more enthusiastic than the people at other checkpoints. Perhaps for them, the few cars passing by the checkpoint every day, and the dozen or so passers-by are theirs. The only connection with the outside world. After passing the checkpoint, the landform changed, and there began to be a piece of soil forest, which was very spectacular. Following the road signs, we came to the first viewing platform.

Standing on the top of the mountain has a feeling of seeing all the small mountains at a glance. It is really domineering here. I didn't expect the first earth forest to be so shocking. The weather is cloudy and sunny, the light and shadow are changing, and the beauty of the earth forest is vividly displayed.

The road under our feet is the road we will pass in a while. We dare not open the windows casually when we walk here, because we really eat the dirt along the way.

It can be seen that the earth forest looks like castles, bamboo shoots, tents, and palaces layer by layer.

📍Piyang Grottoes丨We are just here for a cutscene

Tickets: Free (On the Internet, it is said that it is a package ticket sold with Guge. I saw the place where the tickets are collected, but the door is closed, and the scenic spot can be entered casually)

Altitude: 4400 meters

Coordinates: Ali District Zanda County

The Piyang Grottoes are the largest Buddhist grotto site discovered so far on the Tibetan Plateau. The total number of caves in the Piyang Grottoes Group is nearly 1,000, including different types of caves, such as ritual Buddha caves, Zen caves, monk's room caves, warehouse caves and kitchen caves.

Because I just went to Guge before going to Piyang, so after coming to Piyang, I lost my physical strength and curiosity. Only Teacher Ma still insisted on climbing the mountain, so I took off the drone on the side of the car. There are basically no murals in the grottoes near the bottom, so I took a look at the overall distribution and went back to the car to rest.

That touch of red is Teacher Ma who is struggling to climb the mountain.

There is a field next to the soil forest where the grottoes are located. I don’t know if those who excavated the grottoes lived on this field in ancient times.

📍Xiayi Valley丨The "melting" soil forest

Tickets: 30 yuan/car (vehicle environmental protection fee)

Altitude: 4000+ meters

Coordinates: Ali District Zanda County

Among the Zanda soil forests, Xiayi Valley, which is about 5 kilometers long, is known as the "Colorful Earth Forest" and "the night pearl of Danxia in the world". Due to the large amount of ore, the soil forest in Xiayi Valley is very rich in color. Under different light, you can see yellow, red, white, blue and other colors. The lower part of the Xiayigou soil forest is layered with gravel and loess, and the uppermost layer is a layer of iron ore. After long-term wind and rain erosion and rain erosion, a special structure of large, medium and small is formed, which looks like mushrooms, giraffes, and door openings when viewed from a distance.

Looking down from the air, there is a feeling that the cream has melted. Some relatively "short" soil forests look like chayote after "melting". An off-road road divides the soil forest in two.

Tibet is a magical place. There are snow-capped mountains in the distance, deserts, and soil forests nearby. The three landforms are integrated without any sense of disobedience.

The soil forest is very layered layer by layer. It's a bit like the stalactite stalagmites in Guangxi caves, which are enlarged in clusters.

This gate-like place is the core part of Xiayi Valley and the symbol of Xiayi Valley. But the way up is really difficult, the slope is a bit steep, and the sand is very loose, so you must be careful when going up, and don't walk on your own.

Looking at the soil forest from the bottom up, it is a bit grayish blue, and the colors seen at different angles and different light are not the same.

📍Dome Yincheng丨The Xiangtung site that is older than Guge

Tickets: Free (on the Internet, it is said that it is a set ticket sold with Guge, but we did not see a place to collect tickets)

Altitude: 4400 meters

Coordinates: Ali District Zanda County

Zhang Zhung was a dynasty in the west of the ancient Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, and its existence was earlier than the Tubo Dynasty. According to the records of Bon religion classics, the history of Zhang Zhung is at least 3000 years ago. According to the "Dunhuang Historical Documents of Tubo": Songtsan Gampo married his younger sister Samaga to Li Mixia, king of Xiangxiong, as his concubine. But Li Mixia was at odds with Samaga, and let him live by Lake Manasarovar for a long time. Songtsan Gampo used this name to send troops to destroy Xiangxiong.

As the pre-culture before the introduction of Indian Buddhism to Tibet, traces of the ancient Zhang Zhung culture run through all aspects of Tibet. "From production to life, from folklore to belief, there are shadows of Zhang Zhung culture everywhere. For example, religious activities such as offering sacrifices to mountain gods and turning around mountains are all derived from Zhang Zhung culture. Yincheng is the legendary capital of Zhang Zhung in Tibet. It is a site of Zhang Zhung that is older than Guge.

Dome Silver City is really hard to find, and the road is really hard to walk. If I drive, I guess I will give up parking on the other side of the river and walk. Unexpectedly, Brother Zhang drove us to the downstairs in a Highlander. You have to pass a wooden suspension bridge, and there is a river with a smoke and a sulfur smell on the side. It is estimated that there is a hot spring, and then there is a road with a slope of about 30 degrees. If it rains and slips, I really can’t imagine it.

Looking down from the air, the dome Yincheng is hidden in the soil forest, and the small grottoes are the relics left by the ancient Zhang Zhung people at that time. Some people say that the white soil forest on the cliff is like a roc spreading its wings, and the word "Dome Silver City" is a combination of Chinese and Tibetan, and the Tibetan language should be called "Dome Weikar". "Dome" means the place of the roc bird, and "Wickar" means the silver castle.

Looking at the ruins, imagine how prosperous this ancient city was before time passed, and how civilization has been passed down from generation to generation.

Now the railings and trails have been repaired, but the grotto is empty. Because the altitude is too high, we didn't climb to the top. We lamented the loss of civilization and lamented our lack of physical strength.

📍Guge Dynasty丨An ancient city full of legends

Tickets: 65 yuan

Altitude: 4400 meters

Coordinates: Ali District Zanda County

It was afternoon when I arrived in Zanda County. I originally planned to go to the scenic spot in the afternoon, but I didn’t have enough time, so I put my luggage first. After dinner in the county town, I rushed to the Guge Ruins, planning to take a picture of the starry sky. So we arrived at 6:30, waited until nearly 9:00 to get the stars, and then took more than an hour to shoot the star trails, and it was already 12 o'clock when we went back to the hotel to lie down. According to my personality, if I shoot The stars must have been repaired that night, but I was really tired that day, so I fell asleep directly.

Since I learned how to take pictures of lollipops in the starry sky and how to find stars at Lao Wu (refer to his detailed description in another Inner Mongolia travel note) last time, I have been very obsessed with taking pictures of star trails and lollipops. Sugar, so that our car changed my name for me. The baby who was originally named Tingzai was changed to Xingkongzai. . . Usually I am not active in taking pictures. If the sky is full of stars, I can definitely see me squatting and tossing with a tripod.

There were a lot of people taking photos of the Guge ruins that night. Every two minutes, someone took a photo of the ruins with a strong flashlight.

I only took a few photos of the vertical version, mainly of the Milky Way. Unexpectedly, I caught one with three shooting stars. What kind of godly luck is it. However, during the few days when I was shooting the starry sky in Tibet, I took pictures of shooting stars every day and saw them all. As long as the sky is clean, it is not difficult to see shooting stars.

Early in the morning we came to the Guge ruins again, and planned to spend half a day exploring this scenic spot. Basically, I didn’t do any guides when I went out with Brother Zhang. The only one who did a guide was the Guge Dynasty. So I decided to take a little more time to take a good look. In fact, after walking for half a day, I still felt that there was not enough time, but it was already the agreed time, so it was not good for Xiao Fan and Brother Zhang to wait too long.

The Guge site is built on the mountain, more than 300 meters high from the foot of the mountain to the top of the mountain. There are more than 600 houses, pagodas and caves. There are five well-preserved temples and halls, namely the White Hall, the Red Hall, the Great Virtue Hall, the Tara Hall, and the Mandala Hall. Only the Red Hall was open that day, and it was forbidden to take pictures in all the halls, so there were no photos. At the foot of the mountain, you can clearly see the various halls on the mountain. The buildings on this mountain are relatively well preserved. Compared with the dome Yincheng hidden in the soil forest, it is much more atmospheric.

The entrance of the corpse cave on the other side, because of time constraints, I didn't have time to go. It is said that there are many headless mummified corpses in the corpse cave, all of which were captives who were killed before. It can be seen that it was still very barbaric at that time.

I started to climb the mountain along the trail. At first I didn't see a place selling tickets. I thought that like the other scenic spots with package tickets, I didn't need tickets. Unexpectedly, when we walked to the first platform above, there was a ticket office. We saw that the staff was still washing up, thinking that we could evade the fare, but they locked the door and it was not open yet, so we detoured to the back mountain of the ruins and turned around. After turning around, I didn't expect it to be a treasure photo spot.

The soil forest in the distance is once again bathed in the morning sun just like the tens of thousands of years before

Take some portraits while the light is good. It's too cold in the morning, I dare not take off my down jacket

I found an excellent location to take pictures of He Tulin.

After 30-40 minutes of shooting in the back mountain, the main gate finally opened. We took pictures while climbing the mountain, stopped and walked, and didn't feel particularly tired.

In the middle of the 9th century, after the death of Zanpu (Tibetan King) Lang Dama, the last Tibetan king, a struggle for the throne began within the royal family. Jidnimagun, one of the descendants of Langdama, failed in the struggle, fled to the Ali area, and established a small dynasty. Later, Jidnimagun divided Ali into three and entrusted him to his three sons. The Guge Kingdom (the site of the Guge Kingdom) was the feudal kingdom of his third son De Zugun. This regime lasted for more than 700 years.

Come to the Red Temple first, the murals inside are still well preserved. The colors are also pretty bright.

There are more than 600 houses, pagodas and caves in the entire Guge Dynasty, which is a huge group of buildings that are easy to defend and difficult to attack. The overall building is divided into upper, middle and lower floors, followed by palaces, temples and dwellings. Therefore, the houses on the ground floor are all houses where the poor live, and they are basically ruins. The large ones can gradually see the traces of the building from the middle layer.

Interestingly, we met a local surveying team from Tibet from Lhasa. When they climbed up, they panted a lot, and kept saying that they were high-reversed... We stopped by the side with a look of confusion, and all the people from Lhasa were high On the contrary, those from the mainland are still alive and well, hahahahaha, so funny.

Many of these hand-hewn grottoes may have been a cave dedicated to Buddha statues before. The recessed place in the middle is where the Buddha statue is placed.

While climbing, I sighed that the wisdom of the ancients of Zhangzhung actually built such a fortress that is easy to defend and difficult to attack. What kind of disaster caused a dynasty to disappear overnight? Some said it was war, some said it was plague, some said it was poisoning, among the different opinions, even experts did not have a correct interpretation, so such a legendary dynasty spread, and because of this, Gugbi Dome Silver The city is more concerned and loved by tourists.

To get to the top of the mountain, you need to go through such a tunnel. At most two people can go in parallel, and it is also a tunnel that is invincible.

On the cliff at the top of the mountain is the royal palace, including the main hall for gatherings, scripture halls for Buddhist activities, mandala, shrines, winter palaces and summer palaces where royal family members live. Judging from the preserved buildings on the top of the mountain, the buildings on the top of the mountain are much more atmospheric than those at the bottom of the mountain. There is also a downward passage on the top of the mountain, which is said to be the warehouse where the royal palace stores grain.

▶Part4: The plateau elves you met

It is very common to see wild animals in Tibetan areas, so don't chase them out of curiosity, especially Tibetan antelopes, they will be very excited when you see them, maintain mutual respect and keep an appropriate distance.

【Tibetan wild donkey】

A "what are you looking at" expression, very arrogant

I came across hundreds of Tibetan wild donkeys running wildly. Even Brother Zhang, who has been to no-man's land many times, said he saw it for the first time.

【Tibetan gazelle】

They are the most seen along the way, and I saw a lot on the way to the 40 glacier the next day. The biggest feature is that their pp is a white peach heart. Isn't it stupid and cute~

【Tibetan antelope】

On the only day when we could see the Tibetan antelope, we stared like copper bells and searched for a day. We saw this male Tibetan antelope, grazing leisurely, and we didn’t know whether it was left behind or ran away from home. .

In fact, I really wanted to see the Tibetan antelope along the way. I didn’t expect to see such a single seedling along the way. It’s a pity, but it really depends on luck. The little friends I met at the inn later saw quite a lot.

【Black-necked Crane】

Seling Co is a protected area for black-necked cranes, and we also saw black-necked cranes near Seling Co.

【fox】

The thick fluff, looking at the cunning face, saw us and left slowly, and was not frightened by our car. It seems to be a fox who has seen the world.

【sheep】

Although they are not wild animals, the sheep in the Tibetan area are also a beautiful landscape. I met the shepherd driving the sheep home by the lake.

In addition, I also saw a lot of groundhogs, but I couldn’t take pictures. The groundhogs are not as good as the ones I met in Gannan, and they are so close to each other. The groundhogs in Tibetan areas hide from people and eat with them. It can't be tempted to come out, it seems that there is still a lack of people to feed.

Those pictures that cannot be classified but are reluctant to delete

"Secret place in Western Tibet, Ali in the sky" This is a symbolic gate to enter Ali. Many tourists stop here to take pictures. We slept in the car in the dark. It was a buddy at first glance. We got off the car and clicked on the door. Going back again, showing no respect for the ceremonial door that entered Ali.

On the road of National Highway 317, I saw a Gobi-like creek with various bends. I applied to stop the car for 15 minutes and took some aerial photography.

Our Highlander

▶Part5: See Lhasa again

After finishing the 12-day Ali Central North Line, we returned to Lhasa. There are still four days before our return flight. I simply define these four days as the days of wandering in Lhasa and basking in the sun.

The afternoon in Lhasa is very comfortable, because I live in Barkhor Street, so I often carry a telephoto on my back, and go to find a chair next to Maggie Ami to squat for an hour or two, watching all kinds of people turning prayers, and talking with Chatting with the grandparents on the same bench, "Where did you come from, how old are you, how long have you been here, do you want to eat highland barley noodles, and I brought butter tea, do you want to drink some?"...This is all The daily life of me chatting with my grandpa and grandma on a chair.

Barkhor Street is a place full of hope and positive energy. People who were very anxious and confused at first, sat here and looked at the long-headed people who turned their prayers, and they seemed to have found some answers. It was like charging a battery. If you stay here for an hour, your energy will be full today.

The wind is blowing, and the curtains fluttering in the wind on the windows outside the Jokhang Temple seem to invite you in.

I didn't go to Chengbu Palace last time, and I made a special appointment to visit the Cloth Palace this time, but when I arrived at the Cloth Palace Square that day, I felt that my physical strength was exhausted that day. It was impossible to accomplish, so I broke the appointment gorgeously. Then I turned around the cloth palace. Takabu Palace Square

When I didn’t know what to do on the mountain, I saw the travel photographer taking pictures of the guests at this angle, so I also took a picture of the beautiful angle with few people

Check out the Zongjiao Lukang Park behind the Potala Palace

I also went to a very popular camera position on dy recently, squatted twice, and once wanted to take a time-lapse that turned from day to night. I didn’t expect that the tripod that had been working all the way was limping, and it was raining. So let's just take a picture and come back during the day, after all, we live very close.

In the days of wandering in Lhasa, the roof of the Shengcheng Academy was the place where I stayed the most. It was said to be an academy, but it was actually an inn. The inn is located in Barkhor Street, and the roof is an open platform. The most amazing thing is that you can see the cloth palace on the roof, so we often go to the roof when we are free, drink cola, and edit pictures, even if Just chatting, being in a daze, and reading a book, I feel that sitting in a position where I can see the cloth palace is particularly ceremonial.

A pleasant afternoon at Shengcheng College

How can there be no books in the academy? There are books in a whole building. If it weren’t for the overweight luggage, I fell in love with several documentary books and almost wanted to buy them back. It suddenly occurred to me that I hadn't been to a bookstore for a long time...

Eating and drinking in Tibet

🍧Tiancun Tibetan Chicken in Stone Pot丨The first wine in Tibet

Per capita: 70

Service: 5 stars

Taste: 4,8 stars

We bought a group purchase package, which included wild mushroom running pheasant, two kinds of vegetables, sweet tea, rice, and popcorn. Anyway, the three of them were full. Especially when I have just returned to Lhasa from the Ali Ring Road, and I am hungry and thirsty, I can still eat enough. When we were in Nyingchi Lulang, we ate stone pot chicken. The taste is really unforgettable for a long time. Although it is not said that Tiancun has 100% Lulang taste, 80% of it is there. In addition, the service is really good. The sweet tea cups are never empty. When serving the wine, they asked us if we had just arrived in Lhasa, fearing that we would not be able to drink anything.

In addition to the set meal, we also ordered Wusu River Qingke Niang Niang, and drank the wine happily, because Ali's conditions in the next few days were really bitter, and we had to indulge a bit when we returned to the big city.

🍧Chen Fatty Potato丨Potato shop where locals eat

Per capita: 25

Service: 4.5 stars

Taste: 4.3 stars

Fried potatoes were what I was looking forward to the most. I didn’t expect the fried potatoes to be soft when I got them. If I were in KFC, it would be an “expired product”. Fortunately, the sour plum soup is amazing. The drinks in this store are a bonus item. You must order it when you come to eat. . The jelly and cold skin are delicious, but they are quite spicy. If you can’t eat spicy food, remember to let me know in advance.

🍧An Duonuo Zeng Tibetan Meal丨Authentic Tibetan Meal in Lhasa

Per capita: 25

Service: 4.5 stars

Taste: 4.3 stars

Lhasa is a Tibetan meal that is more suitable for tourists. Next to the stone pot chicken, although the people are not as popular as the stone pot chicken, they are still full. The taste is not bad, and it is considered to be the best among Tibetan meals. The waiter's Mandarin is ok, you can chat a few words. Beef and mutton must be ordered, which is the specialty here, as well as raw fruit yoghurt.

🍧A Diao丨Let's have a cup of Lhasa Internet celebrity milk tea Ramlacuo

Per capita: 25

Service: 4 stars

Taste: 5 stars

Ali wanted to drink milk tea all the way, and all kinds of milk tea took turns in his mind, so that he started looking for milk tea shops in Lhasa on the app before returning to Lhasa. At the top of the list is A Diao. The name of the signboard is also well-intentioned, taking the name of the holy lake Ramla Cuo.

Instead of queuing at Barkhor Street, I ordered a drink at the branch on Beijing Road and played with my phone for an hour leisurely.

The snow top of the signature Ramla Cuo is very good, and the soufflé is so delicious that I bought it later and took it home as a gift. It's just a little bit hotter.

🍧Funding Restaurant丨Listen to Tibetan songs and eat Tibetan food

Per capita: 80

Service: 4 stars

Taste: 4 stars

We were attracted by the performance before entering the door. The performances of Tibetan brothers and sisters who can sing and dance really made us forget to order food. The location of the restaurant is at the end of the commercial street in Shigatse, so I thought there would be a lot of tourists, but when I went in, I found that the locals and tourists were basically half and half. That proves to be quite authentic. Tibetan hot pot and hand-held beef and sheep are indispensable. The taste is quite satisfactory, after all, we are not used to eating too authentic Tibetan food.

🍧Majia Handcatch丨Super amazing fragrant chicken

Per capita: 60

Service: 4 stars

Taste: 5 stars

At the beginning, I just went to eat casually. I didn’t expect to go late, and I waited for 40 minutes for the food to be served. I was very anxious while waiting. I felt that this restaurant was going to get my one-star bad review, so I drank a whole cup. After the eight-treasure tea, the dishes were finally served, and the appearance still felt that it was a one-star bad review, but I picked up the chicken and took the first bite. It is not an exaggeration at all, and I forgive them. It's been a long time since I've had such amazing food. So the next night we had a full meal and thought about the taste of the chicken, and we couldn't help borrowing the electric car of the lady at the front desk of Shengcheng Academy, and we went to pack the fragrant chicken by ourselves, which was crazy enough. Compared with the crazy chicken, the hand-caught sheep is just average.

【Talqin Town】

It was too cold that day, everyone wanted to drink soup, so I found a beef soup pot within 100 meters from the hotel. It was the first time I ate meat like this, and I didn't expect the taste to be amazing.

【Zada County】

Northeast dumplings, you have to go to Guge Dynasty to shoot day and night before sunset, so I simply ate dumplings for dinner.

【Wenbu South Village】

In the Anhui Renjia Inn, the boss personally cooks four dishes and one soup. It is very happy to be able to eat such a meal in such a difficult environment.

lodgings that you love and hate

From September to October, the price of accommodation in Ali all the way has increased. Basically, the second round of price increases will start ten days before November. We are ahead of the second round of price increases, so the beds are basically 70-100 yuan per bed, standard room Basically, it is 120-180 per person. Note that it is one person, not one room. Personally, I think the price/performance ratio is not good, but after going all the way, the cleanliness requirement at the beginning has changed to a bed. It is also very humble. If there are more modern facilities such as electric blankets, bathroom heaters, and flush toilets , simply don't be too happy.

day1: Dalong Town Inn

We arrived after dark, and the inn was closed when we arrived. After shouting a few times, two Tibetan girls came to open the door. The guest rooms are all on the second floor, and a car full of high-reverse people couldn’t carry their luggage. Brother Zhang helped carry two boxes, and the rest was carried up by the Tibetan girl. There is no electric blanket in the room, so there are two coats in addition to the quilt. The bathroom and bath are public, and it is comforting to sleep with the oxygen generator on.

day2: Shigatse Mango Hotel

Big cities~ Take a good shower before entering Mount Everest, the room has everything you need, it is the best place to live along the way.

day3: Quzong Brothers Hotel in Basong Village

I took a look at the accommodation in Rongbuk Monastery when I was doing the guide. Based on that, the accommodation in Basong Village is better than expected. The bed in the four-person room happened to be a car of us, and Brother Zhang was in the cubicle at the door. There is no running water, the sanitary condition of the bedding is worrying, there is no washroom, there is no toilet that can be used safely, there is a kettle for boiling hot water, there are plugs that can be powered all night, and most importantly, there is a camp bed that can stretch your legs.

day4: Saga Coji Hotel

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day5: Kailash Three Gorges Hotel

The hot water is uniformly boiled, put it in a thermos bottle and carry it to the room. There is a squatting toilet and hot water in the room, so you can take a bath. There is an electric heater in the room, which can be said to be a very good treatment. There is even an electric TV, but we don't have time to watch it at all, so we went to take pictures of the stars at night. The beef soup pot next to the hotel is super delicious.

day6: Zada ​​Ping An Hotel

The room is very narrow, the suitcase can't be opened, and the bedding is... (It's hard to describe), but fortunately, there is hot water, an electric water heater~ There is also a bath heater with a slight warm air, and a squatting toilet. It's a passable treatment. . Fortunately, the boss is very nice. I arrived early to wash the clothes and hang them in the yard outside the door. The wind was so strong that the clothes almost fell off. Good people and good deeds.

day7: Shiquanhe Xianshi Hotel

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day8: Renduo Qamdo Guest House

A very Tibetan-style room. The power was cut off at 8 o'clock in the evening, and then the call came in at 8 o'clock in the morning. Everyone had to wait in line to charge their electrical appliances. There was no tap water, but "bottled water" was delivered. Hot water in thermos bottles was provided, and there was no bathroom. There are dry toilets. Because we went early, we could choose a room, and we chose the best bed room.

day9: Cuoqin Plateau Impression Hotel

It's a hotel with everything you need, and you can sleep peacefully. is the facility is a bit outdated.

day10: Wenbu South Village Anhui Family Hotel

A hotel full of "surprises". In Wenbu South Village, we lived in a lake-view room, and I have to exaggerate that Brother Zhang’s relationship is really strong. Although the facilities in the lake-view room are crude, they have everything you need, such as beds, electricity that runs all night, curtains, sinks, electric water heaters, and squat toilets. Oh my god, there are water heaters and squat toilets~~~ It’s going to heaven. Although there is no partition between the toilet and the bed, this is the first time I have seen such a room (we guess it has not been built in time, so we are in a hurry to open to receive guests). Compared with the bed rooms that can be seen, such a small standard room is simply heaven.

day11: Bangor Xinjin Hotel

It is also a hotel that should have everything. It is very happy to take a bath

day12-15: Lhasa Shengcheng Academy

Heaven! Walked a loop in Ali and returned to Lhasa to live in Shengcheng College, where there are takeaways, overnight electricity, toilets, hot water, clean bedding, humidifiers, drinking water, and various free services Small snacks, there is a spacious place to open the suitcase, in the Barkhor Street, the roof of the roof can see the Potala Palace, the whole building is full of books, and there is a handsome front desk that helps with luggage Little brother, my god, what is it if it is not heaven~

shooting equipment

Camera: Sony A7R3

Lens: Sony16-35mm/2.8 and Sony70-200/4

Action camera: Gopro7

Aerial Photography: Mavic Air 2

Post-production: Lightroom, PS, Star Trails (software for compositing star trails)

write at the end

I don’t know when I’ll go to Tibet next time. There’s another one in eastern Tibet who wants to visit Kasapu Mountain and Zizhu Temple; Looking at the clouds rising and falling in Nanga Bawa; I also want to eat packed fragrant chicken on the roof of the Shengcheng Academy where you can see the Bu Palace...

Tibet, let’s meet again next time~