Guizhou Guiyang Qingyan, Qiandongnan Basha, Huanggang, Xiaohuang, Jiabang Terraced Fields + Longli Ancient City, Tongren, Zunyi Twelve Behind, Chishui 10-day Travel Notes (Part 2)

D4 days

The moment I opened the window, my heart was broken. It rained heavily outside for a whole night, and the mountains in the distance were wrapped in thick fog. The lights did not turn on, and the hot water stopped. Later, I learned that the local power supply bureau had a power outage. . . I remember that when I was in Bazhai, Chengyang, there was a power outage, and there was no way to avoid it in the mountainous area. While having breakfast, today's chartered driver called to confirm whether he wanted to go up the mountain to Tang'an Dong village in such bad weather. After getting my affirmative answer, the driver arrived at the entrance of the hotel at 8:30, picked me up the mountain, walked a section of the winding road, and arrived at Tangan on the mountain in about 20 minutes. Arriving at the parking lot in Tangan, I got off the car and saw that the visibility was only 10 meters. I instantly felt that the chartered car fee was a waste, and I agreed with the driver to go down the mountain at 10:30 (there are also buses in the Zhaoxing scenic area that can go up the mountain, and there is a departure timetable. If you don’t know, you can ask the owner of the local inn) There are two viewing platforms in Tang’an Dong Village, one is not far from the parking lot, and the other needs to pass the Drum Tower, the drinking place of the local villagers, and climb 50 meters up the mountain. You can see the viewing platform on the top of the mountain. Because of the heavy rain, I had to hide from the rain. When WeChat reached the top of the mountain, he was immediately overjoyed, the heavy rain stopped, and the Zhaoxing Dong Village in the distance was also looming. Seize this rare time, took out the camera and took a quick photo of the Zhaoxing Dong Village in the distance. After staying for less than 15 minutes, the heavy fog came up again, and the Zhaoxing Dong Village disappeared into the sky again. Go down the mountain and meet the driver, return to the Zhaitou of Zhaoxing Dong Village, walk back to the hotel, take your luggage and check out, and go to the next stop Huanggang Dong Village, it is already 11:00 noon.

Huanggang Dongzhai is more than an hour's drive from Zhaoxing Dongzhai. It is called "the hidden utopia hidden in the mountains". According to the local people's description, Huanggang Dongzhai is relatively primitive, almost like the Zhaoxing Dongzhai in the 1970s, and here is also The birthplace of the male part of the Dong Nationality's big song. The male Dong folk songs are unique, with beautiful tunes, majestic momentum and shocking. Huanggang Dong Village was first built in the Song Dynasty and has a history of more than 800 years. The entire Dong village is located in a long and narrow valley between mountains running from east to west, and a small stream passes through the village. There are five drum towers and a flower bridge in the village, surrounded by ancient pine trees. There are many granaries beside the village, and they are arranged in an orderly manner, enclosing the village in the middle. This is a traditional ancient village with the most characteristics of Dong farming culture. During the harvesting season, the layers of grains are turned into golden barriers, and this golden barrier is the origin of the name of Huanggang Village. According to legend, the ancestors of Huanggang were five brothers. Later, the five brothers lived and multiplied separately, and evolved into five large ethnic groups, so five drum towers were built. The unique feature of the Drum Tower in Huanggang is that each Drum Tower hangs a wooden board with the twenty-four solar terms for everyone to master the solar terms. There are also two dragons in each drum tower, which are lifelike.

Tang'an Rice Terraces

Tang'an Diaojiaolou

Tang'an Rice Terraces

Tang'an House

Tang'an Rice Terraces

It was almost 1 pm when we arrived at Huanggang, and it was time to eat when we were high. I was looking for a restaurant in the stockade, but I heard from the villagers that there was only one restaurant, and there was no signboard at the entrance of the restaurant. I wanted to find a restaurant to cook, but I found out that the owner had gone out for a walk and hadn't come back yet. After waiting for 15 minutes, the boss finally came back and asked what to eat, and he replied that there was only rice noodles to eat, nothing else. This is called the original ecology. In the commercialized Zhaoxing Dong Village, you can buy food and drink with money. In the original ecology, you can only eat whatever you want, and you can’t buy it if you want to spend money. There is a viewing platform on the small hillside of Huanggang, with repaired stone steps, you can climb up to see the whole picture of the Dong village. Many photos should also be taken on it. It is not difficult to climb up. You can see the road passing through the stockade, and the distribution of five drum towers. In addition, there is a primary school here that is in class. After getting off the viewing platform, I went to look for 5 drum towers in the village. While walking, I heard the sound of battling together. It turned out that the local people were beating the blue cloth to make batik. The main people who were engaged in this work were the local seniors. For women, there are 1 person in a group, and there are 2 people in a group. They are extremely busy. Batik is an ancient folk traditional textile printing and dyeing handicraft of ethnic minorities in my country. It is also known as the three major printing techniques in ancient my country together with twisting (tie-dyeing) and clipping (hollow printing). Batik is to use a wax knife dipped in melted wax to draw flowers on the cloth and then dip them with indigo. After dyeing and removing the wax, the cloth surface will show various patterns of blue background white flowers or white background blue flowers. The natural wax of the wax cracks, making the cloth surface present a special "ice pattern", which is particularly attractive. Because batik has rich patterns, elegant tones and unique style, it is used to make clothing and various daily necessities. It looks simple and generous, fresh and pleasing to the eye, full of national characteristics. At present, there are 2 drum towers in the village that are being repaired, and there are not many people in the whole village. It takes about 30 minutes to walk around.

batik

Huanggang Dong Village

Huanggang Primary School

After driving away from Huanggang, I arrived at Xiaohuang Village, which is about 9 kilometers away from Huanggang. Xiaohuang is the birthplace of the famous intangible cultural heritage - the Dong Nationality's big songs. It is also known as the "Hometown of Big Songs". In 1996, it was named "Hometown of Chinese Folk Culture and Art" by the Ministry of Culture. It takes 30 minutes to walk from the head of Xiaohuang Dong Village to the end of the village. In the middle, we will pass the Fengyu Bridge. There is a big rice noodle shop beside the Fengyu Bridge. I am secretly happy: I have breakfast tomorrow. Today I stayed at the inn opened by Mr. Wu Rongde. He is the successor of the state-level Dong folk song in Qiandongnan Prefecture and the captain of the local performance team. Because everyone in Xiaohuang Dong Village can sing and loves to sing, and there are more than 20 official singing teams in the village, with more than 1,000 members. Such a situation is obviously rare in other places. Meals are also settled at Mr. Wu's house. Mr. Wu told us what to eat at night, eh! It's an original place. I slaughtered a chicken, brought up a plate of vegetables, and a pot of fried grasshoppers (yes, I heard that right, a big pot of grasshoppers mixed with a few praying mantises) at the local performance venue at 19 o'clock in the evening. Big song performance, tickets are 60 yuan per person. If there is no one to perform during the day, you have to pay 800 yuan for a performance to invite locals to sing. This is also the reason why Xiao Huang stayed overnight in this activity, to listen to the sounds of nature deep in the mountains. Arriving at the performance venue on time at 19:00 in the evening, I saw actors coming from all directions on motorcycles. The real audience is actually only 10 people, but there are more than 50 people in the village, which is really flattering to him. The melodious songs of the Dong people reflect the life and work of the Dong people. Among them is a segment called "Walking Songs and Sitting on the Moon", which tells the story of a Dong boy who showed his love to the girl he likes many times, but every time he failed because he couldn't sing. The performers used flexible movements And the exaggerated expression is impressive. The whole performance lasts about 1 hour, and finally there is dancing around the bonfire. It was getting late, so I hurried back to the inn to sleep. Today was a fulfilling and unforgettable day.

Xiaohuang Dong Village

Dong song performance

D5 days

At 7 o'clock in the morning, I excitedly came to the Fengyu Bridge and asked the boss to bring me a bowl of rice noodles. The boss said that the ingredients were still down the mountain and had not been brought up, and there was no breakfast provided, so I was speechless for a moment. Fortunately, there is still a small supermarket open, and I made a bowl of instant noodles for breakfast. Drive to Basha Miao Village, about 1 hour, 30 kilometers. The road to Basha Miao Village is very flat. In addition, it is very close to Congjiang County, and there are many tourists there. The scenic spot is already very mature. After the car arrives at the scenic spot, you have to change to an eco-friendly car to enter the village. The planning is decent, and it is a national 4A-level scenic spot. Basha is known as "the last tribe of gunmen in China". Ancient customs such as wearing muskets, shaving heads with sickles, and worshiping ancient trees are still preserved in the village.

Basha Miao Village is relatively simple to visit. From the drop-off station of the eco-car, through the gate of the village, you can see the camphor wood memorial pavilion of Chairman Mao Memorial Hall. In 1976, the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall was built in Beijing, and people of all ethnic groups across the country actively contributed work and materials. With infinite respect for the Chairman, the Basha people resolutely decided to dedicate a thousand-year-old camphor tree with a diameter of 1.2 meters to the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall. When the camphor tree came out of the village, all the people in the village, old and young, ran to both sides of the road to watch them off until the dust was gone. To commemorate the memorial, an octagonal memorial pavilion was built at the site of the tree, "Camphorwood Memorial Pavilion for the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall." Then there is a cultural exhibition room, where local snacks, roasted turtledoves, etc. are sold at the entrance. It introduces the local customs. It takes 15 minutes to walk from the showroom to the Ancient Lusheng Hall, where we sat in the front row early and enjoyed the performance up close. This performance should be regarded as the highlight of this scenic spot, because there is nothing special about the architectural style of Basha Miao Village compared with other villages. There are 3 performances a day, please be sure to know the specific time of the performance before going. On Lushengping surrounded by woods behind the village, the locals held a grand welcome ceremony. The Lusheng Dance was performed in a circle around the Lusheng, and the melodious sound of the Lusheng and the cheers of people resounded through the mountains and forests. Here you can enjoy the fanatical and unrestrained singing and dancing, which makes people really feel the feeling of returning to basics! At the same time, learn about the rituals of the Basha people's sacrifice to the tree gods, the customs of weddings and funerals, and the coming-of-age ceremony of shaving one's head with a sickle, etc. It has to be said that Basha men carry numerous large and small equipment with them: muskets, waist knives, reeds, pipes, wine crates, gunpowder gourds, pockets, flower bags. Wearing a collarless green cloth jacket with a copper button on the right that he woven and dyed himself, straight trousers, a bun on the top of his head, and a white striped turban, he looked like a warrior in the Warring States Period. For the men in Basha, the gun is a spiritual pillar - with the gun, there is courage and strength. Li Mengbo met a big brother Basha and motioned to follow him. From the road in front of his house, he could see the whole village. Most of the Miao villages in Basha are Gun surnames, and there are only more than 300 families in the whole village. Due to its remote location, the ancient and primitive way of life is still preserved. The wooden buildings in the village are simple and unsophisticated; surrounded by dense forests, the environment is elegant; the villagers are all of the Miao nationality, with primitive clothing styles and strange styles, known as: Qin Shifa style Han fashion. Basha Miao Village is built on top of mountains, with layers upon layers, and it is often difficult to distinguish the direction when you are in it. The houses are all ancient stilted buildings, and the roofs are covered with fir bark, which maintains the original flavor of the ancient Miao village. It took more than 20 minutes to go from the ancient Lusheng Hall to Heyang Group, then from Zaige Xinzhai to Qiantang Zhaimen, and then back to the ecological performance field. to the main road. Along the way, apart from the local dwellings, a certain number of migrants have set up inns in the local area. Today is actually full. Leave the scenic spot at 12:00 noon, have lunch in Congjiang County, and rush to Jiabang terraced fields. Although the road to Jiabang terraced fields is a secondary road, it is the kind of winding mountain, and people who turn around are not very comfortable. There is also a big construction site on the road, and I don't know whether it is to build a highway or repair a railway. The car drove for 4 hours and arrived at Yunshang Terraced Fields Hotel at 16:30. He didn't bother to enter the hotel and drove straight to Jiache Village. The terraces are divided into party twist, page addition, and car addition. Among them, the party twist is the most classic, the page is the most beautiful, and the car is the most spectacular. There was heavy fog along the way, and there was no good scenery. Coupled with the light rain, it was very cold on the body, and I had no time to think about it, so I could only go back to the hotel to rest. As one of the three major terraced fields in China, Jiabang Meimei can only return in a bitter mood. The hotel is actually not bad, with hot pots and hot dishes, warm air conditioner, and very hot bath water. It really deserves a good review in this mountainous area.

Basha Miao Village performance

Basha Miao Village

Basha Miao Village performance

D6 days

Woke up early in the morning, the surrounding fog still didn't mean to disperse. After eating a good meal, I went out to the mountains. Today is the hardest day, with 8 hours of driving and 400 kilometers. The car drove for 5 hours, got off the ramp at Songcong Expressway, and drove 6 kilometers to Longli Ancient City, one of the four ancient towns in Guizhou. It was 13:30 at this time. The ancient city of Longli was originally a military castle in the Ming Dynasty. In the Qing Dynasty, it took the meaning of "Longsheng Zhisuo" and changed its name to Longli. The ancient town is very small, with two cross streets connecting the four city gates in the east, south, west and north, among which Taojiayuan, Kejiadi, Wujudi and two Wang's ancestral halls are the most representative. Longli Ancient City is the product of the integration of Central Plains culture and Guizhou minority culture. Most of the residents here are descendants of the troops stationed in the Ming Dynasty. Their ancestors came from Anhui, Jiangxi and other provinces in the south of the Central Plains. People in Longli preserve and inherit the simple traditional culture. Playing dragons with painted faces, singing Han opera, and welcoming stories with folk as the carrier are the most representative, and are known as the "three treasures" of the ancient city of Longli. Enter from Qingyangmen, the east gate, and there is a plaque with more than 600 years of "Purple Qi coming from the East". There are several restaurants at the east gate, so I quickly picked one for lunch. After eating, we went to Longbiao Academy in front of us. Longbiao Academy was founded by Wang Changling, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, and was rebuilt in the Qing Dynasty. The academy is a well-known local institution in Liping, and has produced 3 Jinshi and 18 Juren. Going forward, I walked to the Chenghuang Temple, and the rest of the Guandi Temple were locked, so I hurried past. Most of the local residents are old people, young people should have gone out to work, and the doors of every house are not closed. It can be imagined that the local security situation is very good. The next step is to visit the four towers in the southeast, northwest and north along Qingshiban Road. The south gate tower was open, so I walked up it quietly and took a panoramic picture of Centipede Street. The centipede's head is up (Guanyin Hall), and its feet are down (South Gate). The centipede's back is 2 meters wide and its feet are 2.5 meters long, with a total of 56 feet. Due to the tight schedule, I only stayed in the ancient city for an hour before leaving in a hurry. Later, I learned from the online guide that I had never seen the city walls, fields, and eco-museums. I couldn't help but feel a little sorry. Continue all the way to the north and arrive at Tongren City at 19:00 in the evening. The hotel is located near the National Customs Park. In the evening, you can go to the station square in front of Tongren Railway Station to buy things and watch the night market, which is very good.

Gabang Rice Terraces

Longli Ancient City

Qingyang Gate

Longli Ancient City

Wen Bodi

Dragon Ball Academy

Longli Ancient City