On the morning of the fourth day of the Lunar New Year, the temperature in Guangzhou was still over 20 degrees, and it was a scene full of spring. The father and son took the bullet train for four and a half hours, and arrived in Duyun, Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, Guizhou Province, which is only five or six degrees Celsius. As soon as they got out of the bullet train, they felt so cold! All of a sudden, it seems to have returned to the cold winter.
The destination this time is Kaili. The original plan was to go to Guiyang first, and then take the high-speed train to Kaili in Guiyang. Waste of time, I chose from Duyun to Kaili.
Arrive in Duyun at about 1:15 noon. After exiting Duyun Station, there is a Duyun East Bus Station on the right. I thought there would be a shuttle bus to Kaili, but I checked and found that there is no shuttle bus to Kaili. In fact, I am not sure whether this station is in use. There was not a single passenger inside, only two or three staff members at the ticket office.
We took the "High-speed Railway Line 1" bus next to the station to Duyun Passenger Terminal, arrived at the passenger station in about 30 minutes, and then caught the 2:30 bus to Kaili. It is about an hour's drive from Duyun to Kaili. I got off at the Kaili Chengnan Bus Station, took the No. 9 bus, and finally arrived at the hotel where I stayed - Tianxi Hotel Kaili at around 4 o'clock.
After resting at the hotel for a while, it will soon be dinner time. When you come to Kaili, of course you have to try the most famous Kaili fish in sour soup. Through "Dianping", I found that there is a Miao Po Sour Soup Fish Restaurant with a relatively high evaluation next to the hotel, so I decided to try this restaurant. The restaurant is just a few minutes away from the hotel. The restaurant is not very big, but it is clean. I bought a sour soup fish set meal for two people. The taste is really good, hot and sour. For me who doesn't like spicy food very much, the hot and sour level is just right.
After dinner, it was still early, so we walked around the street. At night, Kaili is full of bright lights, the trees are covered with colorful lights, and the buildings are decorated with lights. At 8 o'clock, we went back to the hotel to rest.
Lanterns on Wanbo Square
On the morning of the first day of the new year, we had breakfast at the hotel, and we took the No. 12 bus to Kailisi Bus Station. I plan to take a bus to Langde Miao Village, but the direct bus from Kaili to Langde is only available at 10:30, and I have to wait for an hour and a half. When I was hesitating whether to change the itinerary, an older lady next to me came over and told me that I could take the bus from Leishan Datang to Langde. This bus passed through Langde Miao Village, and the alighting point was at the gate of Langde Xiazhai. up. I decisively bought the ticket for the 9:30 train (the fare is 17 yuan), and it takes about 40 minutes to drive from Kaili to Langde, passing through Nanhua Miao Village and Jidao Miao Village on the way. After getting off the bus at Langde Miao Village, you can see the Langde Xiazhai Tourist Service Center.
Visitor center and place to ride the buggy
Wind and Rain Bridge leading to Xiazhai
Langde Miao Village is divided into two villages, the upper village and the lower village. Langde Shangzhai is an open tourist attraction, and it is also the place where the 2008 Olympic flame passed. I bought a sightseeing bus ticket at the visitor center (10 yuan for a round-trip ticket). The tourist attractions in Guizhou Province are now promoting promotions. The A-level scenic spots are free for residents of Guangdong Province. It takes only a few minutes to drive from Xiazhai to Shangzhai by battery car. After getting out of the car, I saw a large group of people at the gate of the village from a distance, and it was the twelve gate wines of the Miao nationality who were welcoming the guests.
The Twelve Barrier Wine is the highest etiquette of the Miao people's welcoming etiquette. According to legend, about 25 generations ago, the Miao people migrated from the Liujiang River Basin to the Leigong Mountains for a long period of time. Today I am going from Bingmei area of Jiang County, I will go there for three days, and I will come back for three days. The glutinous rice cakes are frozen in winter, and the fish and meat are rotten in summer. The gifts I carry are inedible. In order to change the situation of long distances, two old Dali elders, Xige and Lilao, met at the Yangpai Village of Xiaodanjiang, Rongjiang County. They agreed that Miao villages in Leigong Mountains could marry each other, and at the same time agreed to pick up and send off relatives. Both parties require more than 30 people, and a maximum of 12 wine bars will be set up for the sake of grandeur. As a result, today's Miao people in Leigong Mountains have formed the custom of welcoming guests with wine at the door of 12 gates.
When I got closer, I saw that the small road leading to the gate of the village was already full of people. At the intersection, there was a table with two ox horn cups, and two Miao girls in costumes stood beside them. , This is the bar wine. And the men from Zhai Zichen were all standing on it, playing Lusheng to welcome the guests. All the way up, there is a table two or three meters apart, and I haven't counted whether there are twelve tables. I am worried about how to get past this bar. It just happened that a tourist walked up to the Miao girl to take pictures, and it happened to be mixed in. Unexpectedly, just a few steps up the stairs, I was stopped by a Miao girl, and a wine glass was stretched out. It seemed that I couldn't escape, so I had to drink it. The wine is rice wine, a bit sweet and not high in alcohol content. Fortunately, there is not a lot of wine, and it disappears in one sip. I was about to move on, and when I drank the second cup, all the Miao girls withdrew, what happened? It turned out that it was time for the song and dance performance, and the girls were going back to participate in the performance. We also followed the Miao girls to the performance square.
The singing and dancing performances of Langde Miao Village are all performed by the residents of the village, which can be said to be original ecological performances. Almost every performance is dispatched by the whole village. It is very grand and the performance is over. The songs and dances performed mainly include: "Toast Dance", "Golden Pheasant Dance" and "Lusheng Dance", the performance time is about 40 minutes.
After watching the performance, we walked around the village. It is understood that the Langde Miao Village was built in the Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, with a history of more than 670 years. The stockade is built on the hillside, and the area around Tonggu Square is considered the "commercial area" of the stockade, where the few shops and restaurants in the stockade are located. Going up is the residential area, and there are also several inns. The stockade is full of unique wooden buildings on hanging feet, as well as antique cobblestone roads. Langde Shangzhai is not very big, and you can finish shopping in about half an hour.
After leaving the stockade, I found that a cockfight was going on in the open space opposite the stockade. It was quite interesting to watch it for a while. It was already past 12 o'clock, because we had to take the bus back to Kaili at 12:30, so we took the sightseeing bus back to the visitor center.
On the opposite side of the road from the visitor center is the Langde Station. The fare from Langde to Kaili is 10 yuan. It is almost 1:30 to return to the Kailisi Bus Station. After lunch at the Century City Square near the station, We walked to Beijing West Road and took the No. 17 bus (4 yuan) to Xiasi Ancient Town.
The drive took about an hour, got out of the car, walked in from the path across the road, and arrived at the visitor center of Xiasi Ancient Town not far away. Enter the scenic spot with your ID card, cross the Xiasi Bridge, and you can see the archway of the bridge. In the Qing Dynasty, a branch office was set up in the east of Changgongsi, which was named "Xiasi" because it was located in the lower reaches of Pingdingsi. The bridge archway is a landmark building entering Xiasi Ancient Town. This is a building with Miao cultural characteristics, and it is also a Han architectural archway with three rooms and four pillars.
Pass through the archway and enter the ancient town. As soon as you enter the ancient town, it is very lively, with red lanterns hanging everywhere and shops on both sides of the street. Not far forward, we arrived at Lusheng Square, where a wedding performance of Xiasi in the Qing Dynasty happened to be going on. There is an ancient stage on the square, which is a special venue for opera performances in the ancient town. Below the stage is the passageway into the old street, through the passageway is the Xinminyi Maker Center, but there is nothing to see here, all the doors are closed, only a silver jewelry seller is making silver jewelry. Following the welcoming team, we came to Yuwang Palace. The host introduced the history of Yuwang Palace. Unfortunately, I was too far away to hear what he said clearly. After introducing the Yu Palace, the host brought the welcoming team to the bride's home. Here, after the host introduced Xiasi's wedding customs, the performance ended and the tourists dispersed.
This can be said to be a residential area in the ancient town, and most of the buildings are residential buildings. Most of the residences in Xiasi are wooden buildings with blue tiles, with three rooms and two entrances, and there are also five rooms with two entrances, commonly known as Changwujian. The building not only has the style of Miao and Dong stilted buildings, but also keeps pace with the times and adds commercial connotation.
After wandering around the ancient town for more than two hours, we took the bus back to the hotel. In the evening, I went to another Sour Soup Fish for dinner, but it was worse than Miaopo Sour Soup Fish. After dinner, we didn't go shopping because of the light rain, so we went back to the hotel to rest.
On the morning of the sixth day of the Lunar New Year, because I had to take the high-speed train to Guiyang at noon, there was still a morning. There is nothing interesting around the hotel, so I plan to visit the Qiandongnan Prefecture Ethnic Museum. The museum is not far from the hotel, about 20 minutes away. An underground parking lot is being built around the museum, and the surrounding area is surrounded, and the main entrance of the museum is at Wanbo Square. The museum is a three-story building, the first floor is the exhibition hall of the Drum Tower, and now there is a "Large Photo Exhibition and Painting and Calligraphy Exhibition in Qiandongnan Prefecture Celebrating the 40th Anniversary of Reform and Opening Up". The second and third floors are composed of themed pavilions such as "Giandongnan Overview Pavilion", "Minority Customs Pavilion", "Minority Costume Pavilion", "Dragon Boat Pavilion" and "Modern Folk Arts and Crafts Museum". After visiting the museum, I went back to the hotel directly, checked out the room, took a car to Kaili South Station, and took the high-speed train to Guiyang.