"Summer is here again, and the snow on the grasslands is starting to melt." Brother Wang told me this in WeChat. That night, in my dream, I seemed to hear the sound of green grass sprouting.
"In the season of gorgeous summer flowers, go to listen to the idyll in the depths of the grassland" - with such a picture in mind, our Hulunbuir dream set sail in the mud of rain and dew. Hulunbeier, the most beautiful grassland in China, is a name that haunts people's dreams. There is the most mellow milk, the most melodious long tune, and the most open sky. In June 2017, we finally spared time and went to Hulunbuir.
The plane approached Manzhouli Airport little by little, but my heart throbbed inexplicably. The place that has been dreaming for a long time is about to lift its mysterious veil. Can we bear the weight that we have not seen for a long time?
My husband is a careful person. He started planning our trip early on and consulted a lot of information and strategies. After some comparisons, we rejected the idea of self-driving. The first reason is that the grasslands are not easy to walk on, and everyone is tired when driving. The second reason is that we also want to get in touch with the local people and see the customs. The most original place to go, accommodation and meals are not easy to book. So after some screening, we chose Brother Wang Kun. He is careful, honest, and witty, which really made our trip worthwhile.
Itinerary Details:
Day 1: June 07
Shanghai — Hailar FM9127 9:40AM—15:35PM, stopping in Hohhot for an hour's rest.
Day 2: June 08
Hailar — Zha District — Hulun Lake — Manzhouli Accommodation: Port Hotel
Day 3: June 09
Manzhouli - Guomen - Matryoshka Square - Montenegro Racecourse - Montenegro
Accommodation: Montenegro
Day 4: June 10
Montenegro — Erguna — Birch Forest — Enhe
Accommodation: Gorawan
Day 5: June 11
Enhe - Shiwei - Shiwei Square - Linjiang
Accommodation: Forest House
Day 6: June 12
Linjiang — Boundary Monument Mountain — Eagle’s Mouth — Moerdaoga Town
Accommodation: Rujia Hotel
Day 7: June 13
Moerdaoga - Delpur - Aoluguya Township Shilu Tribe - Reindeer Park - Erguna
Accommodation: Zhengxing Business Hotel
Day 8: June 14
Ergun - Golden Horde Khan - Nine Curves and Eighteen Bends - Hailar
Day 9: June 14
Hailar—Shanghai FM9128 15:20AM—20:25PM, stopping in Hohhot for an hour's rest.
Accommodation: home
Day 1: June 07
The 6-hour journey basically exhausted the physical strength of our family of three. My son slept all the way until we got off the plane, and my husband and I also had a sallow complexion. We took a full day's rest in Hailar.
Hailar Airport is not big, and after getting off the plane, you need to take a shuttle bus to the terminal building. When we came, it was not the peak season, so there were not too many people. The weather was very good, the temperature was around 26 degrees, the sun was strong, and the breeze was blowing, which quickly swept away half of our fatigue from the journey.
We took our luggage and walked to the exit. Before we could look around, a dark man greeted us. My husband was very surprised and said, you recognize people too fast, brother Wang Kun said with a smile, he is used to it, and he can't find me for a long time if he can't let the customer get off the plane. He took our suitcases, one in each hand, walked us to the front of the car briskly, and put the suitcases swiftly. Then start heading to the hotel.
The Hailaer Airport Avenue is very distinctive. There are various sculptures showing Mongolian culture along the way, playing the piano and herding horses, and it is dazzling all the way.
We will soon arrive in Hailar City, and the booked hotel is not far from the Airport Avenue. The hotel has a three-star standard, because this day is not included in the itinerary, so we booked online by ourselves. The hotel is relatively clean. Because I was tired, I ate a bowl of noodles at the small shop in front of the hotel and went back to my room to rest.
Day 2: June 08
I had a good rest the night before, and the weather was fine, and my son was alive and kicking again. We officially embarked on the journey at 9:30. Our destination is the Russian port city - Manzhouli. Because Hulunbeier is a plateau, the ultraviolet rays are relatively strong, but the sky is also very blue. Although the sun is very sunny, the cool wind blows just right, which is indescribably pleasant.
After leaving the urban area, you entered the hinterland of the grassland. There are also some low shrubs, cows and horses everywhere.
Although it is a secondary road, the road condition is very good. With the car windows open all the way, the fresh scent of grass and the cool breeze spread over the surface, surrounded by beautiful scenery, which is really the best enjoyment in the world. When encountering a particularly beautiful place, Brother Wang took the initiative to stop and let us rest, play and take pictures. Therefore, although I drove for several hours at a stretch, I was not tired.
At noon, we went to Zha District to rest and eat. Brother Wang's witty words along the way not only explained many allusions of the grassland to us, but also made us laugh.
Eating barbecue at noon feels closer to teppanyaki or Korean barbecue, but the taste is quite different from Korean barbecue.
After eating and resting, we set foot on the road of departure again. This time the destination is Hulun Lake. Hulun Lake, also known as Dalai Lake, is called Zhalainuoer by local herdsmen. It is the largest lake in Inner Mongolia, wide and desolate. The journey this time is not long, just talking and laughing, and it will be here in a blink of an eye.
There are also fishermen fishing in the lake. According to Team Wang, there are extremely delicious wild fish here, and they are all very large. Especially in winter, the lake is covered with ice several meters thick, and the fishermen even drive trucks to the lake middle school. When the ice surface was cut open, the fish scrambled to the entrance of the cave to breathe because of lack of oxygen. Putting a net hook down, they could return with a full load, which made us very fascinated.
Because there is still a schedule in the urban area of Manzhouli, after playing for a while, we reluctantly left Hulun Lake.
After arriving in downtown Manzhouli, we first went to the hotel to put down our luggage and wash our faces. The hotel is located on Manzhouli Pedestrian Street. It is very distinctive, combining Nordic architectural style and Russian classic art style.
Our time is close to six o'clock, let's go to eat first. Balhu hot pot, I swear it is the best Russian hot pot I have ever eaten in my life
It was already 8 o'clock when we returned to the urban area, and it was still not dark yet. We took a casual walk on Manzhouli Pedestrian Street to digest food, and saw many Russians strolling on the street, and the shop names and slogans attracting customers on the street were all in Russian, which made people feel like they were in a foreign country. Bought some small gifts to send home to friends.
I went to bed very early at night, and when I woke up, it was already bright. I thought I had overslept, but when I saw the time was only 4 o'clock, I was really sweating. So I fell asleep again,
Day 3: June 09
When it was time for departure, we went down to the lobby a few minutes earlier. We planned to go downstairs and contact Brother Wang, but unexpectedly, Brother Wang was already waiting for us in the lobby. I was taken aback and looked at the time, it was not too late. At that moment, I felt extremely warm and at ease in my heart. At this point, I really feel that I have not found the wrong leader.
The first scenic spot in the urban area, the National Gate. The national gate of Manzhouli is an important port leading to Russia, and it is also magnificent.
We did not enter the Guomen Scenic Area, because Team Wang told us that there is nothing to see inside, there is only a duty-free shop, and you can just look outside. If you don’t want to shop, there is no need to spend the 80 yuan ticket. So we gladly followed his suggestion and went to the next attraction - Matryoshka Square.
Matryoshka Square is the most famous scenic spot in Manzhouli. There are hundreds of dolls, big and small, and even the trash cans are in the shape of dolls. In the center of the square, there is a particularly large beauty doll, which is also a church and a large western restaurant. Team Wang told us that matryoshka represents love in Russia, so my husband bought a small doll for me in a small shop in the square.
Reluctantly bid farewell to Matryoshka Square.
As always, he saw the thick figure when he went downstairs. We have slowly begun to get used to his meticulous care. After leaving the urban area of Manzhouli, the small shrubs began to gradually become scarce, and a wider and endless scenery appeared in front of our eyes.
The sky was too blue to be real. Stop and go all the way, this section of the road is so beautiful that it is not like the world, walking slowly along the Sino-Russian border, bounded by wooden piles and barbed wire, the other side is the territory of another country, it is really a strange feeling . An obvious feeling is that the herdsmen in our country are much more industrious than the herdsmen in Russia, and the grass on the side of the barbed wire is several times higher than that on our side.
All the way to the north, the open grassland, the straight road. There are very few cars on the road, and there are occasional flocks of sheep in the distance, large and small mosaic rolling on the green land, echoing an ancient poem: big beads and small beads fall on a jade plate.
Passing through a place, the scenery is similar to other places, but the name is very interesting, and Hu Lie also said it. The son heard that he was a fox and a hare, and laughed wildly.
Arrive at the destination at 2:00 noon - Heishantou Town. Heishantou is a small town, not much different from most towns, the only difference is that there are many large straw bales placed at the gates of the yards of every household. There is not much food in the town, so take us to eat finger meat.
Finger meat is fresh lamb bone peeled, boiled in water, with a little daily seasoning, it will be tasteless and extremely delicious. Milk tea is made from tea leaves and fresh milk. The freshness of green tea neutralizes the greasy food. I love it very much and drank several large cups. The boss told me that this is not the purest milk tea, and pretended to be mysterious and said that he would take me to drink it next time.
After a full meal, we arrived at the Heishantou Racecourse, which is less than three kilometers away from the small town of Heishantou. The racecourse is extremely wide, with dozens of horses, large and small. The horse was tall and strong, without a saddle, grazing leisurely in all directions, with shiny fur. Stay at the horse farm tonight. After arriving at the racecourse, we put down our luggage first, washed and rested for an hour, and when the sun was a little less hot, we came out to ride horses.
We each chose our favorite horses, and the owner of the race gave us a whistle and performed a clean horse harness for us when we were caught off guard. Everyone started screaming and forgot to take pictures. Afterwards, some brothers from the racecourse put on protective gear for us and helped us onto the saddle.
I have ridden horses in Shanghai too, but the racecourses in Shanghai are nothing compared to here. The endless horse farm is filled with a strong smell of green grass, and the shepherd is lazily humming low-pitched songs. We ride horses and walk slowly, the sun is hot, and the lover is gentle, which is the most beautiful thing in the world. Looking back, her husband was riding a horse in a heroic manner, as if returning to the lingering time ten years ago.
Riding a horse is a physical effort, and beauty is beauty. After riding for a long time, I feel that the whole body will fall apart. After an hour, we went back to our room to rest. The room is just a row of yurts, the layout is a bit simple, but hot water toilets are readily available, and they are very clean.
small town river sunset
All kinds of photos are beautiful. It just so happened that the sun was not so strong, and without the heat of the scorching sun, we had a great time playing.
Everyone sang and danced for a long time before giving up. It was night, and the rain was pattering all night, as if I heard the sound of green grass growing wildly.
Day 4: June 10
It rained all night and got up early in the morning. As always, he saw the thick figure when he went downstairs. We have slowly begun to get used to his meticulous care. Because Xiaobao was too excited about riding a horse and all kinds of jumping, he stayed on the bed and refused to get up. My husband and I had no choice but to have breakfast by ourselves, chatted with Brother Wang and waited for Xiaobao to wake up. It was only at this time that I realized the correctness of choosing a big brother. There is not only the freedom of self-driving time, but also the fatigue of not having to drive by yourself and looking for food and accommodation. Moreover, there are people talking to you about the customs and customs, which is really cool.
It was nearly 10 o'clock when Xiaobao got up to wash up, but he yelled that he didn't want to have breakfast, so we set off and went all the way to Enhe.
The Genhe Wetland is also the largest wetland in Asia. There is a viewing platform on the road to Erguna where we are going tomorrow, but the ticket and battery fare add up to nearly 200 per person, but the scenery we see is the same as ours on the road. What I saw was much the same, so I took us to see the wetland here, so I won’t waste the money. Set off.
The weather forecast said it would rain today, and the sun was still shining brightly at noon. It seemed that it was indeed going to rain at night.
A few kilometers out of Montenegro, I saw such a grassland. It is said that the herdsmen harvest the grass that the cattle and sheep have too late to eat every autumn and tie it up for the winter. Brother Wang took out several sets of national costumes for us to wear, which were very colorful and very beautiful.
Little Treasure seemed to have forgotten that his whole body hurt from jumping yesterday, and started to climb up and down again, humming the most dazzling ethnic style in his mouth, which made my husband and I shake our heads.
The most beautiful scenery is on the road, Wang Dui said. Passing by the gate of Erguna Wetland Park, we had enjoyed enough beautiful scenery along the way and did not stop. Neither my husband nor I are the kind of people who love to visit here for photos. Xiaobao started to complain that he was hungry, so we went to Erguna City for lunch.
Very simple Northeast cuisine, simple and delicious, high quality and low price.
While waiting for the food, Brother Wang told us to go out for a trip, and when he came back, he showed us some boxes of yogurt as if by magic and invited us to eat. The extremely fresh yogurt, with a thin layer of blueberry sauce on top, is inconspicuous, but extremely delicious. It is the most delicious yogurt I have ever eaten in my life, and I will never forget it for a long time.
After eating and resting for a while, we went back on the road. The camera ran out of battery, so I had to snap a few photos with a broken phone.
Brother Wang is simply Tinker Bell, he always comes up with something unexpected, this time he conjures up rope skipping, and everyone jumps happily in the open space in the middle of the birch forest. It was even worse to meet a student group by chance. After skipping the rope tug-of-war, everyone had a great time.
Continue to Enhe.
Eventually Darn and the town.
Enhe Township is a Russian ethnic township with a population of more than 4,000, more than 60% of whom are Russian. There are many mixed Russians. You can often see a crooked nut with a high nose and big eyes speaking fluent Northeast dialect. Traveling is not half past one. Enhe's architecture is very distinctive, unified wooden buildings, the legend is that because the winter is too cold, the concrete will crack, there are flowers and brightly colored small roofs everywhere. A small river runs through the town.
Arrived at the destination, Enhe.
Enhe has the most mellow milk and the most delicious Lieba. However, because we are not used to eating sweets for the main meal, we still eat ordinary a la carte at night. But the enthusiastic shopkeeper gave us Lieba and blueberry sauce to try out.
Day 5: June 11
Get up at 8 o'clock and have breakfast. Enhe's breakfast is very special, including freshly squeezed and boiled fresh milk. En and the leisurely cows by the small river.
milking.
Hot and freshly baked, it exudes a tempting aroma. Put a little more blueberry sauce, so delicious that it will fly.
With tears in his eyes, he was reluctant to leave, and he was reluctant to part with the scent of Lieba that lingered in his mouth. After waving goodbye to the beautiful town of Enhe, we headed towards Shiwei.
Brother introduced us the characteristics of Shiwei along the way, Xiaobao would playfully add a city government behind Shiwei every time, and then laugh alone. The mountain began to grow slowly, and the trees became taller and taller. It is said that when it is snowy in winter, this is the scenery like forest sea and snow field, which is fascinating. The scenery along the way is pleasant, stop and go.
Shiwei is also a border town. The strange thing is that Shiwei's national border is bounded by a river. Half of a river belongs to us, and half belongs to the fighting nation. When we arrived in Shiwei, it was already noon, so we had to solve the problem of food and clothing first.
Ge You Pai Film Base (fragment)
After going down the mountain, we went straight to today's destination—Linjiang. Linjiang is known as a paradise, and the residents are almost all Russians, and you can see the shadows of fighting ethnic groups everywhere. I heard that they were still Russian citizens in the past few decades, and they were only defined in recent years, so the people there are Many talents, most of them speak Northeast dialect mixed with Russian tongue-playing accents.
Linjiang is a small depression surrounded by mountains on three sides and facing the river on the other. It is very small and basically undeveloped. The cement roads are still impassable, and the village is full of dirt roads. But the building is beautiful, just like a log cabin in a fairy tale. The locals call this log cabin Mucutuleng.
The room that night was simple, but clean, and there were radiators, although they were not used.
After putting down our luggage, everyone was still not hungry, so we went for a stroll by the Jiehe River first. Boundary River has a nice name, Ergun River, and the scenery is also beautiful.
Let's eat! Milk tea and Northeast dishes.
Milk tea is made in an iron pot, put in fragrant beans, basmati rice and cheese, then add milk, boil slowly over a slow fire, and the aroma is tangy. Sure enough, it tastes much better than the milk tea made from tea leaves last time.
Day 6: June 12
We left the town early in the morning and went to the 211 Boundary Monument Mountain not far from Linjiang Town. As the name suggests, Boundary Monument Mountain has a boundary marker on the top of the mountain. The car is parked at the foot of the mountain, and it is necessary to climb a slightly dangerous path to reach the top of the mountain. The height is below zero, and the beautiful boundary river is below, and Russia is opposite. There is a small pine forest on the top of the mountain, and the breeze is gentle, which is very refreshing.
I suddenly wondered that I have been to Yunnan, Tibet and other places before, but it seems that I rarely see national boundaries. When I asked my husband, my husband laughed at me: those places are either virgin forests or high mountains. Where is it so easy to see Borderline! Waterfall Khan suddenly felt that after staying in Inner Mongolia for a long time, his IQ was paralyzed by the beautiful scenery...
Leave Boundary Monument Mountain to reach Eagle's Mouth. Eagle's mouth is a protruding hill, facing a small river. The hill is covered with small pine forests, resembling the shape of an eagle's beak, hence the name. There is an old saying in China that half of the world’s famous mountain monks, I wonder if Inner Mongolia has its own beliefs since ancient times. If there are not many people who believe in Buddhism, there must be a temple here, surrounded by mountains and facing water. The scenery is as beautiful Painting, how can you be willing to abandon such a beautiful place.
It was not early, so I rushed to Taiping for dinner. Going straight along the Ergun River, the weather was clear, much more comfortable than the coolness after the rain in the previous two days, and the sky was also dazzlingly blue.
The scenery is so beautiful that you will never forget to leave.
It was noon when we arrived in Taiping. I ate too much in the morning and hadn’t digested it yet, but I heard that it would take 6 o’clock in the afternoon to reach the destination, and there was no place to eat in the middle, so we found a small noodle restaurant to fill our stomachs. After eating, I sat down and rested for a while, and then started to Moer Daoga.
From Taiping to a place called Bajianfang, there are dirt roads all the way. Although it is a dirt road, it is also very flat, there are no other vehicles, so it is not full of dust, only the dust behind our car. All kinds of pride, saying that you see us riding alone are better than thousands of troops. We couldn't get his points at all, so we had to silently watch him continue to be inexplicably proud...
The dirt road is over soon, go forward and arrive at Moerdaoga National Forest Park. With previous experience, we first ask him is it worth going in? After thinking about it for a while, he said that it was actually the same way as we came, except that there were two more signs and some artificial attractions, so we happily took a photo at the door and continued to set off.
time flies
Don't hurry up, it feels like you have arrived at your destination before you have eaten lunch, and it's already dinner time. Brother Wang said mysteriously, I will take you to a fly restaurant for a delicious meal.
It really is a house of flies. etc! iron pot stew
There is nothing special about Mordaoga Town, and there are old ladies dancing in the square after dinner on the street. Go back to the hotel for a while, chat and rest.
Day 7: June 13
Go to bed early and get up early. Because the journey is relatively fast today, so after breakfast, we set off. Today's itinerary is relatively close to Hailar, so the scenery is very similar to when we came here, but it seems that we haven't seen each other for two days, and the grass has grown a little higher. I don't know if it's my illusion...
The first stop is the Golden Horde Khan. The Golden Horde was built to commemorate Genghis Khan's imitation of Genghis Khan's palace, and it is also a gathering place for local herdsmen. The Golden Horde is located on the banks of the Mozhgrad River.
We bid farewell to the men who set up horses like a horse watching flowers, and we came to the nine bends and eighteen bends of the Mozhgrad River. Under Tengger, the Mozhgrad River is known as the first curved water in the world. It is winding and beautiful, and I don’t know how many children of the grassland have been raised.
There was really no time, so we could only leave the beautiful Mozhgrad River in a hurry, and hurried back to Hailaer for lunch without any further stops. I guess it may be that Hulunbuir is too close to Heilongjiang, so eating Northeast cuisine has become the mainstream. Another meal of Northeast cuisine... To be honest, Northeast cuisine is more oily and salty for the taste of our tourists. Although it tastes good, it will still feel greasy after eating too much.
The first stop after dinner is the World Anti-Fascist Memorial Park. The red tourist attraction hastily browsed by. No ticket was purchased to enter.
The second and last stop, Hailaer Anti-Fascist Memorial Park, is only a few kilometers away from the urban area, so although time is urgent, we are not worried about missing the flight.
Time passed quickly, and it was time to part. With tears in his eyes, Xiao Bao held his elder brother and refused to let go, and kept asking: Uncle, when will you come to Shanghai to visit us? My husband and I tried to persuade him to no avail, so we had to let my eldest brother accompany Xiaobao first, and we went to check in the luggage. Fortunately, it is not yet the peak season, and there are not many people at the consignment port.
Heaving a sigh of relief, he turned his head to look at the elder and the younger, not knowing what the elder brother said to Xiao Bao, Xiao Bao stopped crying, but his eyes seemed to be a little red. He hugged Xiaobao and comforted him in a low voice, and our hearts were also sour.
Entering the security checkpoint, I took one last look at this iron-tower-like man, who seemed lost in the crowd.
The sky is still blue, just like the day we came. Xiaobao held my hand and said, Mom, we will come again!
Well, baby, we have to go again, for the pure sky, for those warm and simple people, for the melodious and ethereal voice of Tianmu in the sky.
【tips】
1. The temperature difference between morning and evening is large, so you can't just wear short-sleeved shirts, shorts or skirts, but wear long-sleeved clothes appropriately, and add or subtract at any time.
2. There are many mosquitoes on the grassland, so you should bring some essential oils, anti-mosquito water, etc. It is best to wear sneakers instead of sandals to avoid mosquito bites.
3. Most of the drinking water on the grassland has a high saline content, so it is necessary to prepare some mineral water.
4. The accommodation rooms in remote areas are generally not equipped with toiletries, slippers, water cups and tea, etc. Please prepare them in advance if necessary.
5. Most of the grassland residents are Mongolians, and most of the food is meat. Southerners may not be used to it. You can prepare some commonly used gastrointestinal medicines in advance for contingencies.
6. The photographic equipment is equipped with sufficient batteries and memory cards.
7. Hulunbeier tourism is best to pack an off-road vehicle, because the beautiful scenery of the border defense is not easy to walk on dirt roads, it is more expensive than a car but it is worth it.
8. It is cheaper to choose June to go to board and lodging, the grass does not grow tall, tender green; from July to early August, the grass is high, blooming, rape blossoms, green wheat fields, lush trees; mid-to-late August, the grass has been cut, The grass is slightly yellow-headed, and there are residual rapeseed flowers. The flowers in the north are half blooming and withering. The rapeseeds are mature and being mowed. The wheat waves are rolling. On October 10th, the grass is yellow, but the trees in Daxinganling are golden and very beautiful.
