As one of the symbols of Chinese civilization, the majestic Great Wall is a must-see tourist destination. The first pass in the world, located between mountains and seas, is undoubtedly the essence of the Great Wall. I passed by here more than ten years ago, and took half a day to come here admiringly, and hurriedly visited the old dragon head and the ancient city. The second time I came to Shanhaiguan, I deliberately slowed down. The two-day itinerary not only deepened my impression, but also allowed me to appreciate the unique charm of this ancient border city in more detail.
The first pass in the world, the Great Wall scene light and shadow show
In many people's minds, going to Shanhaiguan is a scenic spot on the tourist route or going to Beidaihe for a holiday. The summer when you can play in the water is the peak tourist season. In fact, Shanhaiguan is not only suitable for sightseeing in summer, but also for enjoying the scenery in all seasons, and it is more suitable for savoring slowly. Another important reason why I chose to visit in autumn is to watch a scene light and shadow show. After getting off the train and walking for more than ten minutes, we arrived at the scenic spot. The signboard of the light and shadow show has been displayed in front of the visitor center.
In the evening, in the ancient city, I saw beams of light shooting straight into the sky in the east. The light and shadow show was already being prepared, so I walked over and lined up to enter. The square was crowded with people and it was very lively. It was hard to find a suitable location for shooting, and a wonderful performance began.
This is a combination of history, culture and modern technology. Exquisite and gorgeous images are projected on the gate of the first gate in the world. The two chapters "Shanhai Xiongguan" and "Heroes' Past" show the past and present of "the first pass in the world". The world is chaotic, the universe is prehistoric, the dawn of human civilization, Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, Qin, Han, Sui and Tang Dynasties, the history of gold and iron horses is soul-stirring, and the stories of love and hatred are full of melancholy. It bears the determination to protect the country and entrusts the yearning for peace.
The Great Wall is not only the front line against the enemy, but also a bridge of communication, where farming and nomadic civilizations blend together, and where Eastern and Western ideas collide. The camel caravan with rare furs passed the Great Wall and entered the Central Plains, the merchants loaded with silk and porcelain went out of the closed gate and headed for the distance, and every household in the Guandong bravely left the border town to go to the Great Northern Wilderness... Spring and autumn come, cold and summer come and go, and they have experienced several ups and downs. Honor and disgrace have witnessed how many years of vicissitudes. The Great Wall is still there, incarnated as a symbol of Chinese civilization, imprinted on the hearts of every Chinese.
The third chapter, "Guan Li Guan Wai", vividly demonstrates the regional folk customs of this border city. As the only way of communication, people of different nationalities and customs come and go from inside and outside the customs. The exquisiteness of the south of the Yangtze River, the roughness and boldness of the north, and the fusion of rich and diverse styles. Shanhaiguan, like her name, is generous and inclusive. Broad minded.
The fourth chapter, "The Great Wall", focuses on the magnificence of the Great Wall. The scenery of the Great Wall and thousands of miles, the exquisite pictures accompanied by dreamlike light and shadow effects, made the audience feel excited. The waves are rolling, the universe is big, the stars are shining, the sun and the moon are shining. The great rivers and mountains sublimate the ambition and arouse great pride. Under the background of this atmosphere, the No. 1 Pass in the World, the head of the Great Wall, is even more majestic, majestic and magnificent.
The fifth chapter is called "Grand View of the World". Chinese civilization is an open and inclusive civilization. Throughout the history of more than 3,000 years, the Great Wall has not become a barrier for closed countries, but has always served as a link for communication. Walk out of the Great Wall and go to the world. Civilizations are inherited through integration and cultures are developed through exchanges. In the past, "Guan" was to defend the country, but today's "Guan" is to face the world. If you don't look at the world, there is no worldview. Shanhaiguan is not only a gate to view the mountains and seas, but also a door to view the world. It is wonderful to enter, and the world is vast when you go out.
Having seen the wonderful light and shadow show of the Great Wall scene, the excited mood could not be calmed down for a long time. A lot of interactive projects have been prepared under the city gate, and you can experience the fantasy journey brought by the light and shadow of the immersive space at zero distance. The light changes brightness and tone following the movement, and the jumping bricks are placed in various shapes under the effect of light and shadow. On the way to the tower, the light illuminates a dreamlike sense of space, as if walking into a time tunnel.
Ascending the tower, "The First Gate in the World" is a huge plaque with a length of 5 meters and a height of 1.5 meters. It is visually estimated that each character is more than one meter in size. Powerful, it has become a classic calligraphy masterpiece and a symbol of Shanhaiguan. Standing on the tower, you can overlook the whole picture of the ancient city, which is even more charming under the light of night.
The ancient city of Shanhaiguan, day tour and night tour are wonderful
I have seen the light and shadow show from Zhendongmen to Yingenmen, and visited the ancient city of Shanhaiguan from east to west at night. There is a bell and drum tower in the center of the city, and the openings on the four sides are written with "Yingxu", "Chaojing", "Tonghai" and "Guanluan". The east of the Bell and Drum Tower is called "East Street"; the west of the Bell and Drum Tower is called "West Street"; the south of the Bell and Drum Tower is called "South Street"; the north of the Bell and Drum Tower is called "North Street".
Different from the separate Bell and Drum Towers in Dacheng Pool, not only the Bell and Drum Towers are integrated into one, but also integrated with Wenchang Hall, becoming a rare three-in-one multi-functional building. The Bell and Drum Tower was built when Xu Da built the Guancheng during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty. It was damaged and repaired several times later, and it stands out from the surrounding low buildings. Standing on the Bell and Drum Tower, watching the traffic coming and going, feeling the passage of time between morning bells and evening drums.
As the only way to exit and enter the customs, Shanhaiguan has frequent trade exchanges. In order to escort the goods to arrive safely, the Escort Bureau came into being. The Zhenyuan Escort Bureau in the ancient city is one of the representatives of this industry. At that time, the main business included several commercial roads from Shanhaiguan to Fengtian, Rehe, Chifeng, Shanxi and Kouwai, and more than 50 bodyguards were employed when they were prosperous. To be able to open an escort agency must not be just for nothing. Not only are you skilled in martial arts, but you also need to have a strong background and a network of relationships, and you are well versed in both black and white. In the ancient city, there are many stories of martial arts masters fighting for righteousness, which also formed the atmosphere of practicing martial arts. In the battle against the Eight-Power Allied Forces and the Anti-Japanese War for National Salvation, the people with lofty ideals from the Escort stood up and fought bravely, leaving behind many heroic deeds.
The night covered up the complexity, and the night in the ancient city was a little less noisy and a little more peaceful. A round of bright moon is in the sky, the lights outline the outline of the building, and the antique streets are more deep and thick. Walking on the street, it seems like traveling through hundreds of years, witnessing encounters of heroes and beauties, listening to stories of love and hatred.
Visiting the ancient city during the day is another scene. As the ancient city of Shanhaiguan known as "the key to the two capitals and the first gate of the Great Wall", the streets are full of shops, and there are camels and horses, which show that this is a place with prosperous commerce and logistics.
This group of sculptures next to the Zhonggulou vividly reproduces the scene of crossing the Guandong, dragging the family away from home, pushing a wheelbarrow with all the luggage and belongings, and going out of Shanhaiguan to open up an unknown new life. The customs and specialty snacks here also integrate the characteristics of Northeast China and Hebei Province, which made me, a tourist from outside the customs, feel no strangeness, and feel the same kindness and enthusiasm as in Northeast China.
The Tian Mansion on West Street was built in 1920. Although it is not as old as Guancheng for 600 years, it has a history of 100 years. The German-style buildings with three-story masonry structure, arched high doors, and floor-to-ceiling windows look very different in the ancient city. This is the founder of Shanhaiguan No. 1 Middle School (Tian’s Middle School) and one of the twenty-four generals of Beiyang. The former residence of General Yu.
The bicycles in the ancient city are very convenient, and there are electric power assist. You can go around the main streets of the ancient city by riding a few laps for more than an hour. Under the Ying'en Gate of the ancient city is the Cheng'en Post where Emperor Qianlong once stayed. Various museums, memorial halls, and art galleries are all over the ancient city, and there is a lot of content to visit.
The gatehouses of the four main gates of the ancient city of Shanhaiguan have their own characteristics. The Zhendong Building at the east gate, the Yingen Building at the west gate, the Wangyang Building at the south gate, and the Weiyuan Building at the north gate. You can cycle around the city quickly and see the four gates. The style of the gatehouse. There are many inns and homestays in the ancient city, and there are many kinds of food and snacks, which are very convenient.
There is a royal courtyard in the ancient city of Shanhaiguan, which is also the Shanhaiguan Folk Museum. Typical Ming and Qing courtyards, three sets of courtyards, and 18 exhibition halls show the life scenes of the once wealthy Wang family through physical exhibits and graphic introductions. The Wang family flourished in the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty. By the time of Guangxu, it had become a wealthy businessman occupying "half of the country" in Shanhaiguan.
There are many legendary stories about the history of the royal family. The Wang family originally lived in Shanxi. In the Qing Dynasty, they traveled across mountains and rivers to escape the war and relocated their family. When they arrived in Shanhaiguan, they were exhausted. I met an immortal guiding the way and spent the night in a ruined temple. In the dream, the three immortals asked him to help the locals dig a well to solve the problem of drinking water far away. The Wang family did not give up, and continued to dig, and they found a source of water. The Wang family decided to settle here, relying on hard work and integrity to manage small business, border trade and bank, and the business grew bigger and bigger. After making a fortune, the Wang family was very generous. On a snowy night, three beggars came outside the door. The Wang family warmly invited them to their home to cook for them. The beggars asked for sleep. The ground freezes, and he agrees. The next morning, when the servant delivered the meal, he found that the guest had left and there was nothing missing in the house, but there were three golden Buddhas on the bed. From then on, the Wang family began to burn incense and worship Buddha to thank the Buddha, so the local people called the owner of the Wang family "Wang Sanfo".
Walking into the Wang Family Courtyard, everything from bedding and furniture to needles and threads, from gold and silver jewelry to clothes and cloth, candlesticks and lights, beds, cabinets and tables, pillowcases and quilts, crowns, towels, shoes and socks, copper pots and utensils, porcelain cups and plates, toilet utensils and jewelry Exquisite and rich display of curios and four treasures of the study makes us seem to have returned to the folk life of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. From tableware, clothing, porcelain to food culture, wedding customs and etiquette are fully displayed here, allowing us to appreciate the profoundness of traditional civilization and family culture.
"Weeping six armies are all plain, rushing to the crown and becoming a beauty." The story of Wu Sangui and Chen Yuanyuan is widely circulated among the people. According to legend, when Wu Sangui was guarding Shanhaiguan, he once lived in the Wang Family Courtyard with Chen Yuanyuan, a beautiful woman of a generation, for a few days. The Chen Yuanyuan Hall in the Wang Family Courtyard shows this story. The Ming Dynasty was destroyed by Li Zicheng without Wu Sangui's reinforcements. When Wu Sangui heard that Chen Yuanyuan had been taken by Li Zicheng's subordinates on the way to aid the capital, he changed his mind about surrendering to Li Zicheng in a rage, and surrendered to the Qing Dynasty instead. Shanhaiguan sent a shocking super gift package.
General Army Mansion is the general headquarters of Shanhaiguan Customs City. Since the establishment of the post of Shanhaiguan General Army in the 46th year of Wanli in Ming Dynasty (AD 1618), there have been 23 general soldiers in total. , Wu Sangui, etc. have left their footprints here, and many historical events have taken place here. The government office is in the middle of the Zongbing Mansion. From south to north, there are buildings such as Fuqian Street, Memorial Archway, Screen Wall, Gate, Yimen, Jieshifang, Lobby, and the Ancestral Hall of the 23rd Zongbing. On both sides of the ruins are six famous battle memorial halls in the late Ming Dynasty. There are also humanistic buildings such as the Twelve Zodiac Taisui Temple, the Great Depression Temple, the Confucian Temple, and the Guandi Temple around the General Military Mansion, forming a concentrated architectural complex in the ancient city of Shanhaiguan.
Since ancient times, the roads and cities have been dangerous, and the natural and dangerous passes are in Jiaoshan
Climb the Jiaoshan Great Wall, which is known as the first mountain of the Great Wall, and you can experience the momentum of the Great Wall with "thousands of mountains and green mountains, and the sea is like silver waves on three sides". The Jiaoshan Great Wall is located about 3 kilometers north of the ancient city of Shanhaiguan, and it is the remaining vein of Yanshan Mountain. At an altitude of 519 meters, Jiaoshan is the highest peak of the mountain barrier to the north of Guancheng. It is also the first mountain that the Great Wall crosses from Laolongtou to the north after Shanhaiguan City. Therefore, it is called "the first mountain of the Great Wall".
The gate of the Great Wall at Jiaoshan is very characteristic. It imitates the architectural form of an ancient castle in the Ming Dynasty, and it looks like a "mountain" from a distance. The Jiaoshan Great Wall was built in the early years of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty, and was presided over by the general Xu Da. During the Jiajing, Longqing, and Wanli years, enemy towers and beacon towers were built. The Great Wall follows the situation of the mountain and uses local materials. There are 5 enemy towers and battle towers, and 1 pass. The outer side of the city wall is high and the inner side is low, which is convenient for defensive operations.
There is a Hanmen Pass on the Jiaoshan Great Wall, which is one of the top ten passes in Shanhaiguan, and the terrain is dangerous. Hanmenguan was built in the early Ming Dynasty and consisted of two parts, the city tower and the city platform, which were destroyed and abandoned after the Qing Dynasty. Now you can still see the blocked door openings on the city wall.
The Jiaoshan Great Wall is a typical example of the alpine Great Wall. It has various structures and is easy to defend but difficult to attack. Along with the mountain situation, the height and width of the city wall vary according to local conditions. The shortest part is less than one meter, and the narrowest part is less than three meters. In the steepest place, there is also a "mountain dangerous wall" that uses cliffs without masonry. The gentle place is more than ten meters high and more than 5 meters wide.
According to the "Linyu County Chronicle": "Jiaoshan, six miles away from the north of the city, runs from the north of the Luan River outside the border to the east, and to the south of Jianchang is the Dahengling Mountains. The peak, crossing the barricades, faces the sea in the south, the Great Wall rests on it, controls Zaidian, borders Liaoshen, and is an important town in Guancheng." The Jiaoshan Great Wall has become an important link in the city defense system of Shanhaiguan by virtue of its dangerous terrain.
After hundreds of years of wind, frost, rain and snow, the Jiaoshan Great Wall was severely damaged. In the 1980s, under the call of "Love China, Repair My Great Wall", the Jiaoshan Great Wall was well restored and regained its glory. Climbing ladders have been built on and beside the Great Wall for the convenience of tourists. Climbing high and looking far, you can have a panoramic view of the ancient city of Shanhaiguan. When the weather is good, you can also see the sea and feel the scenery between the mountains and the sea.
There are two types of piers near Shanhaiguan, one is the piers on the wall, which are called enemy towers; In front of the Jiaoshan Great Wall, there is a Zhenlu Terrace on the top of Dongshan Mountain, and the lower part is a solid platform without doors and windows. The upper part is built with oars, and there are crenels around it, which play the role of looking out and setting off fireworks to inform the enemy. During combat, soldiers use rope ladders and soft ladders to climb up the stage, and then go up to the stage to draw the ladder. There are two protruding stone bars under the stone gate on the top of the platform, which were used by people going up and down with soft ladders at that time.
Yandun arson in the Ming Dynasty was roughly the same as the system in the Han and Tang Dynasties, but slightly improved. In addition to lighting the fire with smoke, it is also necessary to fire a cannon. When burning smoke and igniting, add sulfur and saltpeter to support the combustion. According to the regulations of the second year of Chenghua (1466) of the Ming Dynasty: "Now we are waiting to fire the beacon cannons. If you see one or two enemies to more than a hundred people, you will fire one beacon and one cannon. Five hundred people will fire two cannons and two cannons. Three beacons and three artillery pieces for more than 5,000 people, four beacons and four artillery pieces for more than 5,000 people, and five beacons and five artillery pieces for more than 10,000 people."
The Jiaoshan enemy tower is built on the cliff. It is said that this kind of cross-wall enemy tower was built in large quantities when Qi Jiguang was the general of Jizhen. The enemy tower is towering and the terrain is dangerous. It is necessary to climb a straight up and down iron ladder. Many tourists are discouraged from walking here. After turning over the enemy platform, there is still a section of the Great Wall leading to a higher mountaintop. There is also a Qixian Temple on the Great Wall of Jiaoshan. During the Ming Dynasty, calligrapher Xiao Xian, Zhan Rong, the left servant of the Ministry of War, and Zheng Ji, the supervisory censor, all lived here and devoted themselves to studying. They also built the Kuixing Pavilion. Therefore, it is known as "" The cradle of Shanhaiguan culture", adding a bit of poetic flavor to the Great Wall of Border Pass.
Living in Shanhaiguan, a courtyard between the mountains and the sea
Traveling and accommodation is a very important link, and you can play better with a good rest. We live in a three-entry courtyard near Ying'en Gate, in front of which is the Cheng'en Station where Emperor Qianlong once stayed. The quaint courtyards are dignified and elegant, and the layout is exquisite and beautiful. If you look carefully, each courtyard has its own different style. There is no exaggerated and dazzling luxury, low-key and deep without losing the atmosphere, restrained but full of connotation, walking in the yard, you feel comfortable in your eyes and heart, this is what a traditional Chinese home should look like.
The owner named this courtyard "Heyuan", and carefully tasted it, which has deep meaning. "Combination" has the meaning of tolerance. In traditional culture, it is the highest state pursued by the ancient sages and sages. It is impartial and does not violate. It is suitable, compatible, qualified, cooperative, consistent, coordinated, combined, and united, all of which are developing for the better. beginning. "Combined" also means a gathering. Relatives and friends gather in such an environment, get together in the same courtyard, and have their own private space when they return to the room.
In the deepest part of the yard, there is a long space lined with pine trees and bamboos. Seeing this reminds me of the scene of children playing in the yard, jumping grid, skipping rope, playing sandbags, pushing hoops... The space here is just right.
The interior of the courtyard is a typical Chinese style. The main room is solemn and elegant. It is a place for meeting guests and drinking tea. This kind of residence can calm down the mind, savor it with heart, and make life tasteful. Heyuan also provides ancient costumes, and you can wear Hanfu cheongsam to take pictures of ancient styles here.
The classic big bed, the golden color is quite royal, and the companions jokingly call it the crouching dragon bed. Have a good night's sleep on the comfortable zero-pressure mattress, and recharge your spirits to continue your trip to Shanhaiguan.
Eating in Shanhaiguan is delicious and not expensive
For a foodie, going to a place to taste local food is the top priority. The barbecue supper in Heyuan is unforgettable, and the lunch at Holiday Inn Jinyu Mantang is even more memorable. A glass of cherry wine and a table of special dishes greeted us, starting the food tour of Shanhaiguan.
Flaming snowflake beef ribs, misty crispy shrimp with nuts, glazed eggplant box that can't taste eggplant, fragrant chrysanthemum pot, a set of roast duck with pure taste is 138, a large plate of tender pepper fish is only 48, super The high value for money made us a little unbelievable until we saw the bill. The staple food pancake is not a local delicacy, because in Shanhaiguan, it was named Guanguan pancake. After improvement, friends from Shijiazhuang even called it delicious.
After the gluttonous feast, local snacks are also to be tasted. There is a family of Si Tiao Baozi near the Wang Family Courtyard, which is named after it is located in Si Tiao Street. Since its opening in 1958, it has always strictly selected raw materials, maintained the traditional method, and has a consistent taste for many years. It has become a local time-honored brand. A steamed stuffed bun, a plate of sausages, a few side dishes, and a bottle of Great Wall soda, my trip to Shanhaiguan came to a successful conclusion in delicious food.
The two-day itinerary is rich and fulfilling, and the happy time is always so short. If you give me another day, I want to see the old dragon head, the Meng Jiangnu Temple, and visit every museum in the ancient city one by one. Thinking about the next revisit. The ancient city with profound heritage, the dazzling light and shadow show, the towering and majestic Jiaoshan Great Wall, the long history, beautiful legends, wonderful stories, tempting food, the trip to Shanhaiguan is undoubtedly a great experience.
