Hiking on Jiaoshan Mountain, listening to the sea at the old dragon head

Hiking Cape Hill

Roaming in Shanhaiguan

The old leader listens to the sea

        "The Great Wall will never fall, the Yellow River is surging for thousands of miles, and the mountains and mountains are beautiful and colorful..." Listening to this heroic song, I naturally think of the Great Wall and the Yellow River, both of which have almost become the totems of our Chinese nation and symbol. The Yellow River is a bit far away from my hometown, but the Great Wall is close in front of me. My hometown is located at the foot of the Great Wall. It used to be called "Bianqiang", so when I was young, my relatives on the side of "Bianqiang" became the object of jokes, and I often called them "" Tartar". I heard from the elders that the "side walls" used to be inlaid with bricks on the outside, and later those bricks were peeled off to build water conservancy and home buildings, so the Great Wall I saw was a series of earthen walls, as well as piers and platforms. , are also soil. But it is a miracle that he still stands for hundreds of thousands of years (there is the Great Wall of Ming Dynasty and the Great Wall of Qin Dynasty).

       The most complete brick and stone pier of the Great Wall that I have seen is the Zhenbei Terrace in Yulin. It is known as the first platform of the Great Wall, so I have a strong desire to explore the starting point and end point of the Great Wall. It coincides with September 9. I took this opportunity to say Walk and go, see the unique style of Shanhaiguan, the starting point of the Great Wall, hike the Great Wall at Jiaoshan, roam the first pass in the world, and walk alone with the old leader listening to the sea.

                                                                   Take a look at the beautiful pictures first, seductive

                                                                            Jiaoshan Great Wall

        The Jiaoshan Great Wall is about 3 kilometers north of the ancient city of Shanhaiguan, and 40 kilometers away from the coastal city of Beidaihe. It is the remaining vein of Yanshan Mountain and is the highest peak of the mountain barrier in the north of Guancheng, with an altitude of 519 meters. Its peak is a large flat top, which can seat hundreds of people. There are huge rocks, which look like a dragon head with horns, so it is named. Jiaoshan scenic spots mainly include the Jiaoshan Great Wall, Enemy Terrace, Jiaoshan Temple, and Ruilian Pengri. Jiaoshan is the first peak of the Great Wall starting from Laolongtou, crossing the Shanhaiguan Pass, and crossing to the north, so people also call it "the first mountain of the Great Wall".

        There is no bus line to Jiaoshan Scenic Area, so you can only take a taxi. In fact, it is about 6 kilometers from Shanhaiguan to the foot of Jiaoshan. The taxi is only about 15 yuan, and the ticket is 30 yuan. For hiking enthusiasts, this distance is nothing. Because I didn’t do my homework well, I took a detour. In fact, from the north-south central axis of Shanhaiguan Pass to the north through the Drum Tower, the Jiaoshan Mountain is already close. In front of you, the first stop of the scenic spot - Jiaoshan Great Wall.

        The Jiaoshan Great Wall was built in the early years of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty. It extends 1536 meters from Hanmenguan at the foot of the mountain to Dapingding. Most of the city walls are made of local materials, built with rubble, and some are built with city bricks and long strips of stone. The height and width of the Great Wall at Jiaoshan have obvious characteristics of following the mountain. The height of the Great Wall here is generally 7-10 meters, and the average width is 4-5 meters. Where the mountain is steep, there are also those built with cliffs, which can be as narrow as 2.7 meters wide. The outside of these wall sections is very steep and difficult to attack; the inside is very low, making it easy to climb the wall for combat. The situation in Jiaoshan is dangerous, and the Great Wall in Jiaoshan is also extremely precipitous. The Great Wall here either winds slowly, or goes straight into the sky. Looking from a distance, it looks like a mountain hanging upside down, which is really spectacular. An ancient poem says: "Since ancient times, the road and the city have been dangerous, and the natural dangers and passes are on Jiaoshan Mountain. The Great Wall hangs upside down from the peak, and you can overlook the city in front of you."

         I was really lucky. There was a thunderstorm yesterday. I got up this morning with fresh air and blue sky. It was suitable for hiking. I came to the foot of the mountain early, but I never thought that it would be far before work time. The gate of the mountain was closed. It was obvious that there were people on the Great Wall. It turned out that they were citizens who got up early and liked to exercise. After staying for a while, I saw an uncle coming out from the side of the mountain gate, so I did the opposite. It was the first time I did not encourage fare evasion. Having been to Wuyue Mountain and Huangshan Mountain, I never had that thought. This time, I was forced to enter the scenic spot and overlook the enemy platform of the Great Wall.

         The first section was relatively flat, but as the terrain rose, the Great Wall also gradually became steeper. For example, this step is as high as five layers of city bricks. The closer you are to the enemy's tower, the steeper the steps are, and the more difficult it is to climb up. You almost have to use your hands and feet. Just remember that Badaling is not so precipitous, only the Five Sacred Mountains have such steep steps, especially Huashan and Huangshan, the shock, the danger, the steepness, the aftertaste is poor.

         The elderly, children, and tourists with weak health can visit along the mountain road on the left. Opening up the left road is also a very humane move, otherwise some tourists can only stop here. The steps are very steep, and the photos can't show it, especially if you visit alone, you must be very careful, and you can't tolerate any sloppy. Of course, if you take the road on the left, you will not be able to reach the most dangerous enemy platform from the front, and you will miss the chance to reach the top, and you will miss the lofty ambition of "being the top of the mountain and looking at all the small mountains".

        Looking back on the road when I came here, the photos are just like that. In fact, it is very steep. This section has a slope of about 60 to 70 degrees.

         We are about to reach the first dangerous place, and we can only use the iron ladder to continue climbing. It is about 80 degrees, and there are cliffs on both sides. If the wind is strong, it is a bit exciting to climb. The iron ladder is the only way for the old and the weak to continue to climb up. Of course, it is a smoother way than the Jiaoshan Great Wall.

          An enemy platform on the opposite mountain? Beacon Tower? Lookout? But outside the pass, when you first go to the Great Wall, you need to look up, but now you are at your feet.

         Here is the second danger, 90 degrees. I once thought about giving up, because I was alone, there were cliffs on both sides, and there were bags and cameras. The key is that the injury on the right shoulder has not fully healed, and the right hand can’t use it. Safety first when going out (for this reason, I missed Huashan. The long sky plank road and the kite turned over, but I don’t regret it, after all, safety is the first), fortunately, this protection measure is in place, in addition to the iron ladder, a protective iron ring is also welded outside, which should be much safer, so I will never He hesitated and went up.

        "Infinite scenery on dangerous peaks" is not for talking, but for experiencing. You can't reach that height, and you will never see the scenery that you can see at this height. Standing on the most dangerous enemy's platform, looking around in the air, looking far away, your heart is suddenly enlightened, thinking back to the time when the gold and iron horses, the soldiers on the border, shed blood and did not fear hard work to defend their homeland. , the spirit of iron and blood, who would rather sacrifice than retreat, has inspired generations of Chinese people in modern times. After a hundred years of suffering, they have built a new Great Wall with flesh and blood, fought against the sky, and finally stood at the forefront of history. Forte.

         In history, there was a story of Meng Jiangnv crying on the Great Wall to tell about the cruelty of Qin Shihuang, clearing away the fog of history, and unfolding the picture scroll of the development history of the Chinese nation for 5,000 years. The invasion of the nation, the people will suffer a lot. It is true that "the Great Wall is still there today, and Qin Shihuang is not seen in the past", and its merits and demerits are clear at a glance.

         You can also go down from the back of the enemy platform, which is the same protective facility as the front, but it feels much safer than the front, because there is a wide Great Wall behind, and there is no such sense of dizziness. So the old and the weak don't have to regret it, and you can climb the most dangerous enemy platform when you go up from the side and come back.

             The section above is the severely damaged Great Wall. Although it goes directly to the top of the Jiaoshan Mountain, there are no protective measures, so don’t try it lightly, it’s too dangerous

        Looking down at the first iron ladder from this angle, is it a bit dizzy?

          Looking down at the foot of the mountain, the morning light is faint, the mist is gentle, and Shanhaiguan has a panoramic view, but it is green and suitable for living. According to the sea and land, it has a history of 600 years and protects the people of Li. The mood is smooth, the fatigue of work and the turmoil of life are swept away.

                                                                         The most dangerous building on the stage

         Due to the right shoulder injury, I didn’t bring a bag up, but I could go down from the back, so I had to go down the iron ladder in front again until I got down to the side road. I experienced the most dangerous journey all the way, and I was satisfied. .

           It is much easier to walk on the ladder on the side, and it turns out to be as smooth as walking around it.

          I met a carrier pigeon on the road, so cute, it appeared in front of me again when I was about to leave the Great Wall of Jiaoshan, very lucky! Pigeons always give people a sense of peace and harmony, implying a smooth journey, indeed a smooth journey.

          From the side along the Great Wall all the way up, there is a gap to go up to the Jiaoshan Great Wall, and you can see behind the enemy's tower at the most dangerous place. From this angle, the most dangerous enemy platform is like hanging in the air, which is truly spectacular.

           Standing on a high platform, facing the wind, write a poem:     

                                                                 Feelings about climbing the Great Wall of Jiaoshan

                                                           Drink water from the Bohai Bay, stop at Shanhaiguan, and fly to Shangjiao Mountain

                                                           Reject the Tartars, keep safe, and fight fiercely

                                                          Xu Da's arrogance is still there today, and it has been six hundred years since

                                                         The wolf smoke is not there, the enemy station is free to visit

                                                         Vitality is everywhere, changing the world

          Continuing upwards, there is the second enemy platform, which has a unique shape, but it cannot be seen from the outside. If you go inside to find out, there is also a vertical iron ladder to go up to the top, which should be the third danger.

         Seen from the inside, there are six symmetrical arches from east to west, two large in the middle, and four small on both sides; there are two arches in the north and south. In fact, strictly speaking, only the west one is considered an arch, which is the one in the photo, and the others should be arched lookouts. I really admire the wisdom of the ancients. The ladder is the only way to get up to the enemy's platform.

         This is the end of the Jiaoshan Great Wall. There is no road on the upper part, only the width of one foot can be put down, and the smooth city wall is on the right. It is too dangerous, especially if you are alone, don’t try it. To prevent adventurers from climbing , especially widened and heightened here, to prevent tourists from going up from the left, and the upper station of the Jiaoshan Great Wall Cableway can be vaguely seen in front of the left.

           Departing from the Jiaoshan Great Wall cableway station, I met a sour jujube, which is a wild jujube, which is common in my hometown. The round fruit is quite sour.

                                                                  Overlooking the Upper Station of the Jiaoshan Great Wall Cableway

        Looking closer, they are all abandoned, empty, and the cables are also rusty. Why, there are few tourists. Why are there few tourists? The impact of the epidemic is indispensable

         Qixian Temple. Calligrapher Xiao Xian of the Ming Dynasty, Zhan Rong, Zuo Shilang of the Ministry of War, and Zheng Ji, the censor, all lived here and devoted themselves to studying. Therefore, it is known as "the cradle of Shanhaiguan culture" and Kuixing Pavilion was built. People who like classical literature can come here to experience the scene of Xiao Xian and others studying hard in the cold window.

         For some reason, the temple is empty, and all the doors are locked. But it is indeed a good place to study and practice. Thinking back to the ancients, there was no noise of modern industry at that time. It was like being isolated from the world when you came here, only accompanied by the singing of birds and the fragrance of flowers. From this, we can see how pure the heart was at that time, so that there were those fresh and meaningful poems and poems. Only through the ages will there be eminent monks who practice here.

        Continuing upwards, there is a pavilion called "Ganlu Pavilion". Standing on the pavilion, it suddenly dawned on me that there is water in the back mountain, which is Yansai Lake, and there are other buildings. I navigated through my mobile phone and it showed that I could go down, so I didn't go down. Go down after hesitation. I remember that when I went to Beiyue Hengshan, there were almost no people in the back mountain, but the scenery was beautiful. It was worthwhile to see Yansai Lake, but it didn’t go down to the lake in the end. talk later.

                  It can be regarded as the first jagged rock I saw in Jiaoshan.

        Gonggong Pavilion. "Gonggong clan is the name of the clan, also known as Gonggong clan. It is the water god in ancient Chinese mythology, who controls the flood. It is recorded in the ancient Chinese book "Shan Hai Jing", it is said that Gonggong has always been incompatible with the god of fire Zhu Rong, because "water and fire Incompatibility" and a world-shattering war broke out, and finally the failure of Gonggong angered Buzhou Mountain. There is another saying that Gonggong was the name of the tribe in the Yellow Emperor Dynasty, and Gonggong was listed with Huandou, Sanmiao and Gun One of the four evils." Building the pavilion here means protecting Yansai Lake and benefiting the people.

           The cableway station on the left belongs to the lower station of the Jiaoshan Cableway. The starting point is at Yansai Lake. The lower station of the Jiaoshan Cableway is also the upper station of the Changshoushan Cableway. Unfortunately, both of them have been abandoned.

            This place should have been closed originally, but fellow travellers, like me, had to push aside the iron fence, so that they could go down from here.

                                  The mountains on the side of Yansai Lake are a bit like the exposed rocks of Huashan and Huangshan, and the mountains also have a sense of majesty and thickness.

         Yansai Lake. Shanhaiguan Yansai Lake is located 3.5 kilometers west of Shanhaiguan City, 6 kilometers away from Shanhaiguan Railway Station and 10 kilometers away from Qinhuangdao Railway Station, with convenient transportation. unit. The 15-square-kilometer wide Yansai Lake area is like a painting: the cliffs and mountains on both sides of the lake reflect the green and crystal clear lake; the strange rocks beside the cliffs are like a stone forest, making people dizzy. Yansai Lake is the first artificial lake from the east of the Great Wall. Also known as Shihe Reservoir, it was formed in 1974 by damming and stopping the flow of water.

        The Shihe River was originally a harmful river. Every summer and autumn, the flood in the mountains and valleys rushes out of the mountain pass in the narrow and curved riverbed between the cliffs and cliffs, flooding, destroying farmland and blocking pedestrians. But Shihe is also a natural moat for the military fortress of Shanhaiguan City. The national military conflicts during the Sui, Tang, Liao and Jin Dynasties mostly occurred here. Li Zicheng, the leader of the Peasant Uprising Army at the end of the Ming Dynasty, led an army of 200,000, fought against Wu Sangui, the general of Jiliao in the Ming Dynasty, and Dorgon, the general of the Qing Dynasty, on both sides of the Shihe River; the two Zhifeng wars in the Beiyang period also took place here; Attacking North China, the patriotic general He Zhuguo rose up to fight the war here

         I thought I could go down to see the scenery of Yansai Lake, but the terrain of the mountain is dangerous, and since I came from Shangjiao Mountain, I have not seen a single tourist, and all the cableway stations have been abandoned, and there is not even a gatekeeper. It is extremely quiet, and in addition The road down the mountain was narrow, so I sat down and watched for a while, and found that even if I went down, I couldn’t reach the mouth of Yansai Lake. I saw a road winding westward, and there were no cruise ships in the lake. I went out, but after sitting for a long time, I didn’t see any vehicles coming in and out. I searched the navigation map and found no feasible roads, because with the improvement of the ecology, you don’t know if there will be wild animals suddenly in this deep mountain and old forest. It turned out that there was no such precautionary plan yet, so I turned back decisively when I got down halfway up the mountain, even if I was a little tired, I had to be safer. Facts proved that my decision was correct. On the way back, I met the uncles and aunts who were exercising at the bottom of Qixian Temple. They told me that even if you go down, there is no car. You can only walk out of the canyon to the east, and it takes more than an hour to get out of the canyon. Even if you go out of the canyon, you have to be lucky to get a taxi. Thinking about walking through the canyon alone is still a bit lonely, and because of the limited time to drive, Yansai Lake can only look down and say goodbye.

           At this cliff, a boulder split into three pieces, giving way to a natural path. Just think, God closes a door for you, but also opens a window for you. There is no unparalleled road, only by facing it positively, there are always more ways than difficulties, and you will always find a way to solve the problem. In fact, adversity can train people better. It can temper people's unyielding spirit, optimistic attitude, and correct three views. Take a look at Mencius's "Born in Sorrow, Died in Peace": Shun was raised among the farms, Fu Shuo was held among the boards, Jiao Ke was held among the fish and salt, Guan Yiwu was held among the scholars, Sun Shuao was held up in the sea, hundreds of miles away Xi Ju in the city. Therefore, when heaven will send a great mission to human beings, they must first suffer from their minds and wills, exhaust their muscles and bones, starve their bodies and skins, empty their bodies, and disturb their actions. People persist in their mistakes, and then they can correct them. If they are trapped in their hearts, they are weighed in their worries, and then they are acted on; If you enter, you will be helpless, and if you leave, you will be invincible to foreign patients. The country will perish, and then you will know that you are born in sorrow and die in peace.

         On the way out of the canyon to the east, there was no vehicle entering or exiting, so I decided to return. I didn't choose to go back down the mountain by the same way, because there are winding trails down the mountain at the edge of the Great Wall of Jiaoshan, which can reduce the impact on the kneecap. Thinking about the trip to Jiaoshan, there are regrets, but more gains. It is a pity that the Wuyue Huangshan Mountain that I walked before was all walking up the front mountain and down the back mountain, but Jiaoshan failed to realize this wish. Of course there are many reasons, and the main reason is that there are too few tourists. For tourists coming from the direction of Saihu Lake, I will also choose to go on without hesitation. More is full of harvest. Although I haven't experienced mountains and rivers for two years, I still have passion in my heart, and I received holiday greetings and blessings from a buddy at the most dangerous place! As the saying goes, "Evil words hurt people, June is cold, and good words warm three winters." How lucky I am in life, I have met many good people.

          There is one more thing that must be said. Probably due to the epidemic, there are few tourists in Jiaoshan, and the cableway station has also been abandoned. I took a taxi when I came here, but I didn’t even have to take a taxi after I went down the mountain. After closing the door, two elder brothers came out and walked straight to a car. I was trying my luck and offered to pay and take me to the train station. It didn’t work out. The elder brother who drove said that there is no need to pay, so I will take you for a ride. After chatting in the car for a while, I drove directly into Shanhaiguan, which happened to be where I wanted to go. Maybe he was not familiar with the road, and there was a stone pier in front of him. I swiped him on WeChat, but he insisted on not swiping, and said an order If I was very touched, he said, sometimes it’s not because I don’t want to pick up others when driving, but because I’m afraid of encountering bad people. Big Brother thinks I'm a good person, but I'm not a bad person. To express my gratitude, I gave him a bag of unopened egg yolk pies to be eaten in Jiaoshan, so that his children could taste them. In fact, you can encounter similar situations every time you come out, as long as you are sincere enough.

                                                                  See you at the next stop, Shanhaiguan

        Shanhaiguan Pass, a pass at the eastern end of the Great Wall in the Ming Dynasty, is located in the northeast of Qinhuangdao City, Hebei Province today, next to Yanshan Mountain and near the Bohai Sea. In the 14th year of Hongwu (1381), the city was built and the customs were built. It was named Shanhaiguan because it was close to the mountains and the sea. In the second year of Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty (1737), the guard was withdrawn and Linyu County was set up as the seat of the county government. Before and after the founding of New China, the Shanhaiguan Office in Qinyu City (now Qinhuangdao City) and Shanhaiguan City in Western Liaoning Province (now Liaoning Province) were successively established. In November 1952, Shanhaiguan City was placed under Hebei Province. In 1953, the city was withdrawn and renamed Shanhaiguan District, Qinhuangdao City.

       The city of Shanhaiguan is a small city with a circumference of about 4 kilometers. The whole city is connected to the Great Wall, and the city is the gate. The city is 14 meters high and 7 meters thick. There are four main gates in the whole city, and there are many kinds of ancient defensive buildings. It is a city gate with a relatively complete defense system, known as "the first gate in the world". With the mighty and majestic "No. 1 Pass in the World" archery tower as the main body, supplemented by Jingbian Tower, Linlu Tower, Muying Tower, Weiyuan Hall, Wengcheng, Dongluo City, Xiluo City and other Great Wall buildings, it shows tourists China Ancient city defense architectural style. Shanhaiguan is an ancient cultural city. The city walls and buildings of the Ming Dynasty are basically intact. Most of the main streets and alleys remain as they were. In particular, there are still a number of courtyard dwellings that have been preserved to make the ancient city more elegant and simple.

        There is also a Bell and Drum Tower in the ancient city of Shanhaiguan. Although its reputation is not as loud as those in Beijing and Xi'an, it is also full of history. This Bell and Drum Tower was built by Xu Da, a general of the Ming Dynasty, when he founded Shanhaiguan Guancheng. It was located in the area of ​​Guancheng North Street at that time. In the 14th year of Wanli (1586), Shenjiang Valley on Shanhai Road was successfully moved to the center of the city, so it is also called the center building. In 1952, it was demolished due to years of collapse and disrepair.

       In 2004, the Bell Tower and Drum Tower were restored, and now it is located in the center of Guancheng where the east, west, south, north and four streets meet. In ancient times, the bell tower and drum tower were built separately in big cities, such as Beijing, Xi'an, and Nanjing. For practical and frugal needs, small-scale cities generally use the bell and drum towers together, or the bell and drum towers, watchtowers, and Wenxing towers are jointly built. The Bell and Drum Tower in the ancient city of Shanhaiguan is the same building as the bell and the drum, and it is integrated with the Wenchang Hall. This unique architectural form is very rare in China.

        During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the streets of Shanhaiguan were mainly centered on the Bell and Drum Tower, and the four main streets in the southeast and northwest were the main lines. The names of the streets in Shanhaiguan were very characteristic: the east of the Bell and Drum Tower was called "East Street"; the west of the Bell and Drum Tower was called "West Street"; The south of the Bell and Drum Tower is called "South Street"; the north of the Bell and Drum Tower is called "North Street"

           The shape of the building is very characteristic, and the flow of people is small. The impact of this epidemic can be seen.

         The plan of Shanhaiguan City is square, with a circumference of eight miles, one hundred and thirty-seven steps and four feet, a width of five feet, and a moat of two feet and five feet deep. The outside of the city wall is covered with blue bricks and filled with rammed earth. It is about 14 meters high and seven meters wide. There are four city gates, the east is called "Zhendong Gate", the west is called "Ying'en Gate", the south is called "Wangyang Gate", and the north is called "Weiyuan Gate". All four gates exist, and the east gate is the "No. 1 gate in the world" with the most complete preservation.

                                           The South Gate Wangyang Gate. It probably means seeing the ocean, that is, the Bohai Sea where the old dragon head enters the sea.

                                                                Ximen---Yingenmen, Beijing is in the west, so it is here

         To see the whole picture of "No. 1 Pass in the World", you have to buy tickets. There are three kinds of passes: 40 yuan, 80 yuan, and 120 yuan. Among them, if you go up the city wall for 40 yuan, you can see the "No. 1 Pass in the World" Archery Tower, Linlu Tower, Jingbian Tower, and Muying Tower, which are probably the southeast section of the city wall and the northern part; the 80 yuan pass can circle the 4-kilometer city wall for a week , the key is that you can see the junction with the Jiaoshan Great Wall at a glance; the 120 yuan pass includes the 80 yuan pass and the Jiaoshan Scenic Area.

        "The first pass in the world" is the east gate, the archery tower. On the platform of the city gate is the first gate tower in the world. The measured height of the city platform is 12 meters, the height of the tower is 13.7 meters, the width of the building is 10 meters from east to west, and the length from north to south is 19 meters and 7 meters. Gray tile single eaves rests on the top of the mountain, with upper and lower floors, and sixty-eight arrow windows on the north, east, and south sides, which are closed at ordinary times and opened in time of use. In the middle of the eaves on the west side, a huge plaque with black characters and white background is hung, and the five characters "No. 1 Pass in the World" are written on it. This giant plaque is world-famous. It is about 6 meters long and 1.5 meters wide. It is written with five block letters of "The First Pass in the World". The hanging outside the building is a copy made in 1920.

                                                                         Ticketing

             The Shanhaiguan city wall is very flat and thick, with an iron cannon.

          According to the "Shanhaiguan Chronicles": "The Muying Building is on the east city, connected to the south corner of Dongluo City, and was built in the 12th year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty." It is the auxiliary building of the Zhendong Building together with the Linlu Building. was later discarded. In 1985, the state allocated special funds for restoration, and it was completed in 1986. The restored Muyingloucheng tower is square, with a width of 21 meters and a height of 11 meters. It is connected to the main line of the Great Wall from north to south. The Muying building was built on the city platform. The construction area is 119 square meters, the building is 10.5 meters high, with a single eaves and tiled roof, 22 floors, brick and wood structure, and 20 arrow windows on the upper and lower floors, which is easy to defend but difficult to attack.

         According to the records of "Shanhaiguan Chronicles" published in the 14th year of Jiajing: Jingbian Tower was first built in the early Ming Dynasty, and was rebuilt in the 15th year of Chenghua (1479), the 15th year of Wanli (1587), and the 39th year of Wanli (1611). Pass. In the tenth year of Jiaqing in the Qing Dynasty, it must be built as Kuiguang Building (also known as Kuixing Building). In 1933, the Japanese army attacked Shanhaiguan, and Jingbian Building was destroyed by the artillery fire of Japanese invaders. In order to restore the majestic appearance of the ancient city of Shanhaiguan, in 1958 the state allocated special funds to restore Jingbian Building. In 1986, the restoration project of Jingbian Building was completed. The restored Jingbian Building is basically an imitation of Ming-style buildings. The whole building is built on a wide city platform. The main platform of the city platform is 43 meters wide and 11 meters high, with 30 crenels and 26 shooting holes. There is a 9-meter-wide east-west horse road on the inner side of the central part of the city platform, which communicates with the Shanhaiguan city. There are also 142 steps of brick steps with a width of 2 meters on the side of the city wall for pedestrians to go up and down. Climb into position in time to meet the enemy. Above the city platform is Jingbian Tower. Jingbian Building is a two-story brick and wood structure, with a curved ruler-shaped plane. The total area is 658.4 square meters, the height of the building is 13.47 meters, and the roof with nine ridges and eaves is Xieshan style. The upper and lower floors of the building are connected by wooden ladders. There are 56 arrow windows on the upper floor, and the eaves and beams are in the heart of the Jingbian building, imitating Ming-style painted paintings, solemn and simple.

            Firecrackers have up to six eyes. Among the four ancient civilizations, I am the only one whose Chinese civilization has lasted for five thousand years. Why? Gunpowder was invented by us, but what is it used for? It is used to set off fireworks for people to watch, but Westerners use it to make murder weapons. Militarism has never lasted for a long time, and there is no exception in the history of China or the history of the world. Look at the Mausoleum of the Yellow Emperor, where the Yellow Emperor himself planted cypresses for five thousand years. Can it continue without the protection of successive dynasties? It can be seen that the Chinese nation is a nation that pursues unity and never forgets history. As the saying goes, it wants to destroy its country It is indeed reasonable to destroy its history first. Don’t look at the chaotic and chaotic times in Chinese history, but in the end it still belongs to Datong. From this, it can be imagined that with the advancement of the great rejuvenation of the Chinese nation, the treasure island of Taiwan is not far from returning carry on.

         Standing on the city wall mountain overlooking Jiaoshan Mountain, the Great Wall of Jiaoshan Mountain can be clearly seen winding upwards, guarding the great rivers and mountains in the pass.

                                                                               Catapults on the city wall

            They should be students from the attached school. There are a lot of soldiers on the city wall today, about fifty or sixty of them.

         Standing on the city wall, looking down at the buildings in the ancient city, there are antique ones, some modern ones, and so on. I also feel that there is a long way to go to protect the ancient city.

        According to the "Shanhaiguan Chronicles": "The Linlu Tower is located at the north corner of the Dongluo City on the east side of the city. It was built in the 12th year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty (1584). Because of the construction of the Dongluo City to connect the Guancheng, there is a special building for the army. ". Linlu Tower was built at the same time as Dongluo City, and it is a defensive building for Gongwei Shanhaiguan City. After the Qing Dynasty, it was gradually abandoned. In 1985, relevant state departments allocated special funds for restoration, and it was completed in 1986. The restored Linlu Tower is located on a rectangular city platform. The city platform is 25 meters wide and 10 meters high. Linlu Building has a construction area of ​​119.52 square meters. It is a single eaves roof with five ridges and a double-layer brick and wood structure. There are 20 arrow windows on the east, north and south sides of the building.

       Marvel at the wisdom of the ancients, especially the wooden pulley, and it is a combination, very delicate, labor-saving lever, praise!

           foundation stone. The remaining stones used as the foundation when the pass was built were left on the city wall and have been preserved to this day.

        Shanhaiguan gives people a strong sense of security. The tall and thick city walls protected the great rivers and mountains in the pass in the age of gold and iron horses. After all, people's vision will always go beyond these castles and face a wider world. When we are part of the rivers and mountains, we have no reason to criticize the hard work and creation of our ancestors. Just as the Great Wall finally stands in the north-central part of the motherland and no longer becomes an obstacle to each other, we will still be proud and proud of the great creation of our ancestors. Pride, the walls in people's hearts should have been invisible long ago. There is one more thing to say here. When we were playing in Shanhaiguan City, the fighter planes roared, probably during daily training, because the fighter planes have not retracted their landing gear, so we can see very clearly. I just want these air warriors to defend the blue sky for us. Only in this way can we have our leisurely life, which corresponds to the saying: There is no such thing as a quiet time, but someone pays for you silently. After leaving Shanhaiguan, head south all the way to find the old dragon head, the starting point of the Great Wall.

       The ticket price of Laolongtou scenic spot is 60 yuan. Laolongtou is located 5 kilometers south of Shanhaiguan District, Qinhuangdao City. It is the eastern part of the Great Wall of the Ming Dynasty where it enters the sea. During more than 600 years of vicissitudes, Lao Longtou has written a history full of vicissitudes, providing a good teaching material for patriotism. Laolongtou is 4 kilometers away from Shanhaiguan. In the Ming Dynasty, the Great Wall straddled the mountains and sent a giant dragon into the Bohai Sea, so the head of the Great Wall was called "Old Dragon Head". The old dragon head is composed of Shicheng into the sea, Jinglutai, Nanhaikou Pass and Chenghai Tower.

         In the Ming Dynasty, Ninghai City was mainly used for stationing troops and training soldiers. According to "Linyu County Chronicles": "Ninghai City is in the north of the old dragon head in the South China Sea. There is a strange place on Monday, and it is two feet tall. The gate is located in the northwest and the northwest. Yang Sichang, the governor of the Ming Dynasty, built the Longwu camp here." Guangxu 26 of the Qing Dynasty After the Battle of Gengzi, the British invaders built barracks inside and outside Ninghai City according to the "Xin Chou Treaty", and they did not withdraw until the Second World War. With the passage of time and the ravages of war, Ninghai City has been dilapidated, and it was restored in 1988.

      There are daily necessities and chariots in the living area of ​​Longwuying. Those that can be named are: Dou, Shengzi, Gezi, Stone Mill, Stone Mill, Scale, Fan Car

    a huge iron pot

         The wife's room, as the name suggests, is the place where the family members of the city guards live. They can enter and leave the big sedan chair and convertible car, and the treatment is good.

           Mosquito-proof and moisture-proof beds are probably only suitable for wives and ladies. Yilian Youmeng, is this curtain a curtain or a bed curtain?

                                                                       antique wooden warship

        Bagua formation, also known as Jiugong Bagua formation, is an ancient military formation. According to legend, it was invented by Zhuge Liang during the Three Kingdoms period, and it is often used in the deployment of military tactics. In the Laolongtou Scenic Area, there is a miniature gossip array, so many people walk in curiously, but not many can walk to the center, because most tourists are in a hurry, and once they enter, it is easy to get lost, and if they are not careful, they will be "trapped in" "In the formation, there is a high platform opposite the gossip formation-the general platform

        Don't look at them standing on the highest place and walking up. Several of them climbed over the wall. It is not easy to really go up. Even if you go up, you may not be able to get out smoothly. I failed to go up and was trapped in it It took a lot of effort to get out.

        Chenghai Tower is the first tower at the eastern starting point of the Great Wall. The predecessor of Chenghai Tower was the "Guanhai Pavilion" built in the early Ming Dynasty. "Chenghai" means "the sea is clear and the sea is calm". It is an allusion handed down in the world, which symbolizes the sage's rule of the country and the peace of the world. It was once called "Zhisheng Tower". It stands on the precipitous terrain of the old dragon head, with the mountain behind and the sea facing the sea. On the upper floor hangs the "Chenghai Tower" inscribed by Qianlong's imperial pen and the "Xiongjinwanli" inscribed by Sun Chengzong, a scholar of the Ming University.

       In 1900, when the Eight-Power Allied Forces invaded Shanhaiguan, the Chenghai Tower was destroyed by a torch, leaving only the "Tiankai Haiyue" stele. Soon, this stele was pulled down by the British army when digging the ammunition depot. In 1927, General Zhang Xueliang went swimming in Laolongtou Bathing Beach, and found the stele before ordering the stele to be erected again. The ancient stele is 2.65 meters high and 0.7 meters wide, with four big characters "Tiankai Haiyue" on it: the font is thick and simple, strong and lush. These four characters vividly describe the vastness of the sea and the high sky and the towering rocks in the area of ​​Laolongtou. It is said that this was erected by Xue Rengui, a famous general of the Tang Dynasty when he conquered Korea.

                                                                      The biggest iron cannon I've ever seen

         From the Chenghai Tower on the top, I can hear the sound of the waves. Water nourishes everything, but it is tenacious everywhere, and the dripping water wears away the stone. Maybe it is because of the lack of water in the north. Water is an elf that blends into life for me. So let your heart calm down and listen to the sound of the waves, and follow the sound to see the sea—the sea you have dreamed of is in front of you. Instead, your excited mood calms down. Only when you see the sea can you realize the meaning of endless To the implication of "the water reaches the sky and the clouds make the shore". The wind was relatively strong that day, and the waves rushed to the shore one after another, and there was no vast ocean to the south...

          Slowly approach the sea, feel the sound of the sea, the night of the sea, the state of the sea, the energy of the sea, the charm of the sea...

        The Yangtze River has its source, and the Yellow River has its starting point. The head of the Great Wall in the Ming Dynasty is located in the South China Sea of ​​Shanhaiguan, and it is called "Old Dragon Head". According to legend, in the past, at the feet of the old dragon head, there were countless large iron pots next to each other. The old dragon head was built by Qi Jiguang, the chief soldier of Ji Town. It is seven feet into the sea, and it is too difficult to build. With 15,000 military projects, we can rush to repair it only after the sea tide ebbs. But the sea is ruthless, the tide rises once every three days, and the tide falls once every five days. The city wall cannot be repaired to a shakuhachi height. Countless lives were buried at the bottom of the sea, and Mr. Qi was helpless.

         In the Ming Dynasty, there were few loyal and good officials and many treacherous ministers. Emperor Wanli was a complete fool. The treacherous party talked nonsense. The emperor listened to the traitor's slander, and sent a eunuch as an imperial envoy to Jizhen to supervise the army. When the eunuch came to Jizhou, he knew that Qi Jiguang was repairing the "Old Dragon Head" in the South China Sea of ​​Shanhaiguan, so he went straight to Shanhaiguan without stopping. The elder Kunqi of the whole city visited the imperial envoy and said: "The enemy soldiers often cross the border by sea, and the old leader must not give up halfway." The imperial envoy said: "The imperial decree is valid for three days, and no one can change it." Knowing that the three-day deadline is false, it is true to want an excuse to convict. It doesn't matter what the individual is like, but the old leader has one thing to worry about among the 1,300 enemy platforms. Thinking about the safety of the country, the lives and property of the people... Mr. Qi was very unhappy. Suddenly the door curtain was lifted, and an old man entered the room. This old fisherman is a gang leader who follows Mr. Qi. I saw the old man put the sorghum rice and salted octopus on the Eight Immortals table, and said: "Your Excellency, don't worry. I will report back after the meal. It may be useful for repairing the old dragon head." Cooking meals on the big beach at low tide. I saw Qili Beach, smoke and flames everywhere. After a meal, suddenly a huge wave came ashore, and all the soldiers saw it, throwing away their pots and bowls, and fled without a trace.

       After three days and three nights, the tide passed and the sea returned to calm. Lord Qi looked at the city foundation, and found it strange that he was still standing there. At this time, the old man came over and pointed to the round objects on the surrounding beach, and showed Mr. Qi that it turned out to be an iron pot on the beach. The old man said: "This pot is buckled on the beach, and it will not move despite the wind and waves!" The old dragon head project was completed on schedule, but Qi Jiguang was still transferred to Guangdong by the imperial court.

        Strange to say, the seemingly raging waves rush towards us, but they are just so gentle on the beach, without the momentum of being in the sea at all, but softly flowing towards the beach, and the loud sound of the waves is also drowned in the fine At first I was worried about the people playing on the beach, but when I got down to the beach, I really realized that the sea has infinite energy, the undercurrent is surging, it is not hindered by any obstacles, and at the same time it has a gentle and graceful side .

         Tiankai Haiyue Stele----This ancient stele is very old. Experts identified it as a Tang stele, and the local people called it "Xue Li stele" according to word of mouth. The body of the stele has distinct characteristics of the times: there is no cap on the body of the stele, the top of the stele is curved, the font is rough and heavy in block letters, and there is no writing on the back. The inscription praises the scenery, which is enough to prove that the old dragon head has been a tourist attraction for more than a thousand years since the Tang Dynasty. The four characters "Tiankai Haiyue" have made a high-level summary of the geographical situation of Shanhaiguan. This stele is wonderful in the use of the word "Kai". "Kai" can be interpreted as "Kai Kai". The meaning of these four characters is: the The beauty of sea and mountains is created in heaven and is a gift from nature. "Open" can also be interpreted as "exploitation", which means that the beauty of sea and mountains of the old leader suddenly unfolds in the world. It is also said that the word "kai" is extended to "made", meaning: big The mighty force of nature has created the majestic terrain with the sea close to the mountains, which is really amazing!

Overlooking the entertainment pier, the wind is high and the waves are rough. It was not open that day, so we can only look at it from a distance. If you take a assault boat in the sea, it would be an exciting thing.

                                                                    Overlooking Tanah Lot and Sea Pier

       "As much as a spoonful" comes from "The Doctrine of the Mean" in the Four Books, the original text: Today's husband and the sky, there are so many, and it is infinite, the sun, the moon, the stars, and the stars are connected, and all things are overwhelmed. Today's husband's land, a pinch of soil is as many as it is, and it is extremely wide and thick. It contains Huayue but not heavy, vibrates rivers and seas but does not leak, and everything is carried. Today's Fushan, there are many stones in one roll, and it is very vast, where vegetation grows, animals grow, and treasures prosper. Today's husband's water is as much as a spoonful, and it is extremely unpredictable, sharks, fish and turtles will be born, and goods and wealth will be multiplied.

       Its implication is: Today's sky is composed of many bright objects, forming a boundless sky, with the sun, moon and galaxies in constant motion. It covers everything. The present earth is piled up by a handful of soil. But it is vast and deep. It carries three mountains and five mountains without feeling heavy, vibrates rivers and seas without leaking, and everything on the earth is carried by it. Besides, this mountain is built of many fist-sized stones. But it is tall and majestic, with vegetation and forests. Flying beasts live on it, and rich treasures are buried below. Besides, this water is gathered by spoonfuls of water. But it is unfathomable. All kinds of sharks, fish and turtles live in it, and all things reproduce.

        This is the only enemy platform at sea on the Great Wall of Ming Dynasty. In the 44th year of Jiajing (1565), Sun Qingyuan, the head of the Shanhaiguan Military Department, began to build this platform. In the early years of Wanli, Qi Jiguang, the chief soldier of Jizhen, renovated the Great Wall and built 1017 enemy towers. This is the first one, named "Jinglu Tower". "Halogen" refers to sea water, and its homonym is the captive of the enemy. Therefore, this platform has two meanings: one is to calm the sea, and the other is to calm down the enemy. A pun, each with meaning. The main function of the enemy platform is fortifications, which can be used to garrison troops, store weapons, observe the enemy's situation, and have arrow windows to shoot outwards.

            Listening to the waves is not as good as approaching the waves. After coming down from Jinglu Terrace, I finally have close contact with the sea. The sand under my feet is soft, and the waves in front of me are rough, but they are so gentle when they rush to the beach. It's a different scene when it's blocked by obstacles

          There are so many beautiful shells, I couldn’t help picking up a lot. There are five-color shells sold in the Sea God Temple, and they are sold by bottle. The big bottle is 30 yuan, and the small bottle is 20 yuan. You can choose the size and color. It is really beautiful.

          The Sea God Temple is a place where the ancient working people worshiped the sea. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, Shanhaiguan was a battleground for military strategists. Matouzhuang in Shihekou was once an important tidal river port for transporting troops, grain and salt; it was also the place where the Great Wall entered the sea. The mountains and seas are magnificent, and emperors and poets often come here to watch the sea and express their feelings. Since the beginning of the sea transportation in the early Ming Dynasty, four sea god temples have been built successively from Laolongtou to Shihekou. The one at the old dragon head is called "Sea God Temple", and the one at the mouth of Shihe River is called "Tianhou Temple". Most of these ancient buildings with large scale and different styles were destroyed by the Eight-Power Allied Forces in the 26th year of Guangxu in Qing Dynasty (1900), but the ruins are all there. In 1987, during the investigation of the Qing Dynasty, a huge stele with "imperial approval" and sacrificial texts engraved in two languages ​​of Han and Manchu was discovered. The built Sea God Temple is 350 meters away from the old dragon head of the Great Wall in the east, and the main building extends 124 meters into the sea, facing south and north. It is 22 meters wide from east to west and surrounded by water on three sides. According to the symmetrical layout of the north-south central axis, from south to north, there are double-eave Xieshanding apse (Tianhou Palace), left and right rolling shed roof stele corridors (corridors), Xieshanding main hall (Temple of Sea God), left bell tower, right drum tower, and hard mountain top. There are mountain gates with ear rooms, left and right banner poles, five-hole bridge, four-pillar and third-floor archway and other buildings. In addition, around the temple, there are stone railings carved from granite materials, and there are hopeful pillars between the railings.

        This pavilion is 124 meters deep into the sea, with the old dragon head on the left and the modern entertainment pier on the right. Sitting in it, let the sea breeze blow the Buddha, the waves beat, and the waves in the sea burst, my heart is as calm as water. I remember that I went to Dongting Lake when I went to Nanyue Hengshan. Swallowing the Yangtze River, the vast soup is boundless, but compared with the sea in front of you, nature is really good luck

           What is the color of the sea? It is dark gray in the distance, and dark green in the near, but the waves stirred up are white, and what washes up on the beach turns into white foam.

                                                               Chopping the waves and transporting busy

          This child dragged the adults to run towards the rocks in the sea. It was so dynamic. The blue sky, white clouds, blue sea and white waves, a little girl spread her wings to embrace the sea, how beautiful and moving, she will remember this scene when she grows up.

          The sky gradually darkened, tourists left gradually, and it took a long time to listen to the sea in the Sea God Temple, and I remembered Chairman Mao Zedong’s poems washing the sand. If you don't see it, you know who it is. The past has passed for thousands of years, Wei Wu waved his whip, there is a posthumous chapter on Jieshi in the east, the bleak autumn wind is here again, and the world has changed. The people talking and laughing in front of you are still the same, the people are gone, the scene is still there, the world has changed, but the love is still there. I also walked all the way along the coast on the soft sand, picking up shells all the way, standing at zero altitude is also a wonderful feeling.

          Maybe it is the impact of the epidemic. There are no tourists on the Great Wall of Jiaoshan, and the city of Shanhaiguan is not a bustling scene. There are many old dragon heads, but there are not many people who can go down to the beach to play, and even fewer stroll to the Sea God Temple. Did not see the motorcycle.

         It must be considered lonely for the merchant to stay. I drove a sand motorcycle and played the trick of throwing sand, looking around, and I was the only spectator.

                       Many amusement facilities are idle, and no one is watching them. Maybe it is the off-season of tourism, maybe it is the impact of the epidemic

                                             In this huge garden, Poseidon girl is also lonely

        The trip to Shanhaiguan is over, but I can't calm down for a long time. "Reading thousands of books is not as good as traveling thousands of miles". It does make sense. There are too many memorable moments, too many scenery worth nostalgia, and too many things worth thinking about during the journey. These places will eventually become a fortune in my life journey, deposited in my heart, for my lifelong benefit. Every time I travel, I am always so lucky. When I need help, there are always people who don’t hesitate to extend their friendly hands. They are the noble people in my life, and they are worth remembering. There are blessings from my buddies. Big brother’s helping hand, I would like to talk about it here. While waiting for the train in Taiyuan, I went to Jinci Temple. I had to store the things I didn’t need to bring. As a result, there was no place to send mail around Taiyuan Railway Station. I asked several companies even if it was People are unwilling to pay. I saw a small shop selling cold noodles, and offered to pay for delivery after eating. Unexpectedly, the lady boss said generously, you don’t need to pay, just come and pick it up when you arrive. He was so generous that I bumped into the general manager when I was paying the bill. And that buddy, her open-minded attitude, wise speech, sincere attitude, and positive three views are worthy of praise. And the elder brother who took me back to Shanhaiguan from Jiaoshan, thank you here! ! !

         Postscript: Back at the train station, it will be late, but there is still some time before departure, so I stayed for a while at the Lotus Park opposite the train station, and across the road from the Lotus Park is the ancient city of Shanhaiguan. The scenery of Lianhua Park is also good, with small bridges and flowing water, green shade reflections, and lotus leaf pavilions. Suddenly I remembered Zhou Dunyi's "Ai Lian Shuo": out of the mud but not stained, clean and clear but not demonic, straight from the middle to the outside, not vines but not branches, the fragrance is far and clear, the pavilion is pure and planted...... .In the vast world, how many people come out of the mud without being stained, and who is the one who gives the love of the lotus?

                                                                                Goodbye, Shanhaiguan

Practical strategy

        1. Traffic

        1. When tourism was booming, there were special tourist lines in the direction of Jiaoshan, Yansai Lake, and Changshou Mountain. Now due to the impact of the epidemic, perhaps because it is too close to Beidaihe, there are fewer tourists, so go to Jiaoshan, Yansai Lake. 1. You can only take a taxi in the direction of Changshou Mountain, and the distance is not far, usually about 15 yuan. There used to be cableway stations on the upper mountain, including the lower and upper stations of Jiaoshan, the upper and lower stations of Yansai Lake, and the upper and lower stations of Changshou Mountain. Now they are all out of service.

        2. To the ancient city of Shanhaiguan, the traffic is much more convenient. The train station is just one block north, which is just a distance away from the Lotus Park.

        3. For transportation to Laolongtou Scenic Area, you can take bus No. 25. After 11 stops from the railway station, you will arrive at Laolongtou Station.

         4. The transportation from Tangshan to Shanhaiguan is very convenient. It usually takes about two hours to take the K-prefix train, about an hour to take the D-prefix bullet train, and about 50 minutes to take the G-prefix high-speed rail, and from 2:55 in the morning to 23:00 in the evening: 09 have trips.

        2. Tickets

        1. Tickets for Jiaoshan Scenic Area are 30 yuan;

         2. Tickets for the Shanhaiguan Ancient City Scenic Area are divided into three levels, 40 yuan, 80 yuan, and 120 yuan. 40 yuan can go up to the city wall to see the "No. 1 Pass in the World" and Jingbian Building, Muying Building, and Linlu Building; 80 yuan can walk around the city wall; 120 yuan includes tickets for Jiaoshan Scenic Area.

        3. Tickets for Laolongtou Scenic Area are 60 yuan.

       3. Matters needing attention

       1. The Shanhaiguan Scenic Area is relatively concentrated, and you can visit Jiaoshan, the ancient city, Laolongtou, and Yansai Lake in one day. There are no bus lines in Jiaoshan and Yansaihu, and you have to take a taxi back and forth, and it is relatively remote. It is okay when you go, but you have to contact in advance for the return trip, unless you have very strong feet.

        2. Although you can go to Yansai Lake from Jiaoshan, but you can’t get to the exit of Yansai Lake, there are only two options to return, or go back the same way, or go out from the canyon of Changshou Mountain and return, unless there is a field Tourists with hiking experience are not recommended to take this route, especially alone.