The weather on the weekend was not bad, so I set off early in the morning to go to Baihua Mountain in the west of Beijing alone. The last time I went to Baihua Mountain was in 1985. People who have been there in the past few years said that the tourism development there is good now, and there are roads that can lead to the mountain.
I walked along National Highway 109 all the way into the mountains, and I felt something was wrong while walking. Ordinarily, there should still be some autumn colors in the mountains at this time of year. Why does it look so bleak? Is it possible that after working for a week, the good autumn scenery was wasted? Suddenly, I saw a rest stop on the side of the road, so I stopped to see what happened. There is a row of charging piles here, and a car is charging there. I went up to check with the owner of the car, and he was indeed a local. He said that there must be no autumn scenery on Baihua Mountain, and that he could only see the ancient village. There is a former stronghold of old Beijingers called Donghulinren Ruins. The locals say that Donghulinren is the oldest Beijinger, which is probably pretty good. However, the Donghulin people have nothing to do with the Pekingese in Sijiu City, and they don't seem to have anything to do with the Peking Man in Zhoukoudian. The archeology of the East Hulin Man site proved that they were local people 10,000 years ago, that is, the late Paleolithic and early Neolithic. At present, neither where they came from nor where they went, so it is a bit too forced to say that they are old Beijingers. The ruins are still being excavated and are not open to the public. Even if it's open, I'm probably not interested in seeing the archaeological site, but there are a few pits with some gnawed pig bones in them. I asked the charger if there were any less ancient villages to visit? He said that Dangyan has one, the smaller one has the bottom of the Cuan, and the larger one has the spiritual water;
I thought to myself that I always heard people talk about Cuandixia, but I haven’t experienced it yet, so I might as well not go to Baihua Mountain, and I’ll just go to Cuandixia Village to see what Cuandi is there, and what’s there. Literally speaking, this Cuan is the stove; what should be under the Cuan is Jhin, and besides Jhin, there may be a roasted sweet potato; if it is a valuable thing, it may be a gold bar. It's safe to hide under the stove.
When I arrived at the village, I saw a stele with an inscription at the entrance of the village. The villagers didn't seem to like the stele very much, so they built a hut to block it behind. I only saw the stele behind the house for the convenience of going there.
In addition to tourist toilets at the entrance of the village, there are also shops selling tourist souvenirs. These tourist facilities are all outside the village entrance, in order not to damage the original ecology of the village. In the past, the shops were called supply and marketing cooperatives, because in addition to selling matches, grates, elastic bands and kerosene, they also bought mountain products on behalf of them.
There must be an old elm tree at the entrance of the village. In fact, this cannot be said to be the old elm tree at the entrance of the village, but it should be the tree of the family. The northern folk custom is to plant trees in front of the new house, and also plant trees when they are newly married.
There are not only old trees at the door of this house, but also here.
This is the village office.
Look at its gate, which is very simple. In the city, it is called the chessboard gate, and in the countryside, it is called the bare board gate. If you look at the door frame, it's bare, not to mention the door pier, there isn't even a door tie. The public buildings are so simple, this village is definitely not rich.
Most of the houses next to the road at the foot of the hill are wealthy families, and the houses all have a decent gate.
Most of these gates are house-style, and the specifications are quite high, indicating that the owner is very wealthy. According to regulations, private houses cannot have door piers, but they can have door pillows. The high-end ones are stone pillows with auspicious patterns carved on them.
I didn’t know the character on the door plaque, so I went to ask the owner, and he said it was a variant of “Cuan”.
I saw a rich man's house called "Fuziyuan". You see, the gate of the rich man's house has a door pier, which shows that the rich man was successful in the election. Upon closer inspection, the post of the door frame was actually bandaged near the door pier, probably to prevent the door frame from becoming rotten and falling apart one day.
Why is the rich man's house called Fuziyuan? Because there is a "blessing" on the screen wall at the entrance.
The courtyards in the village are not comparable to the big houses in the city. This screen wall is the south gable of the east house. Look at the character "Fu", there are 30 plum blossoms on it, which coincides with the character "Cuan" with 30 strokes. This is what the owner of the house said, and I don't know the logic here. Moreover, the owner of the house said that the sign on the left side of the word Fu looks like a girl, and the other side looks like a boy. The two of them are facing each other, which means that this family has a hostess and a host, so it is blessed.
The rich man's house has two yards and runs a farmhouse that provides meals and beds. The accommodation will be closed after this weekend, the last day of accommodation this summer, the weather is cold. Saw "The Last Rose of Summer" in the front yard, coaxing the kids. There are several family heirlooms on the side cabinet, and the Red Lantern electronic tube radio must be older than the Sanyo tape recorder, which shows that the landlord is not only educated, but also loves to listen to ditties. Those five brand-new thermoses with bamboo shells are definitely fakes. Where can I find bamboo shells these days?
There is neither a moon gate nor a wishful gate between the front and back yards of the rich man's house, but a hallway. The backyard is relatively regular, with three north rooms, two east rooms and two west rooms. As soon as I came in, I felt that the yard was so small. It turned out that the east and west wings were all moved towards the middle of the yard. It seemed that the rich man in the country was short of a sum of money when he bought this homestead. The result of the short money is that the yard is too small and there is no place to plant fruit trees, but there are many fruit trees on the hill outside the house.
It is said that there are three big north rooms, but in fact the big ones in the country are not as solid as the ones in the city. You see, in this main room, you can barely set up a table for the Eight Immortals, but you will definitely not be able to entertain the sixteen parties. When the house was built and the beams were installed, a sum of money was short, so the ceiling was not installed, and it was directly exposed. On the north wall hung a picture and two screens in a regular manner. I went up and looked at it, and the word "Fu" was very clear, and the two screens were rubbings carved on the door pier. Under the north wall, there is actually a lawful case. I was watching this case, and a rose came up behind it. She said, "There is no chief case officer in my family." I asked her, "How long is your desk?" She said it was 1.8 meters, and I thought you were a big bed, right? But she was right, this case was a bit short, and as a result, there was no way to place two armchairs and a coffee table in front, and the owner of the room hid two armchairs, and the coffee table was hidden somewhere. Don't think this room is a little smaller, but the partitions in the east and west rooms are quite impressive, which shows that the Juren in those days really passed the exam and was quite educated.
When he finished admiring and walked out, he suddenly found that there was a cast iron furnace door with the word "Fu" under the window sill of his west room, and there was smoky makeup on the wall. I said to the owner of the house, your ancestors were really particular! He said that this is the last kang in the village. I said, "I mean, there was an aunt in your ancestor's family who got up at night to add fire to the kangs in each house. It's really particular." He proudly raised his neck and threw his big back head back.
Next is another rich man, not only has a gate, but also has characters, this one with characters is one level higher than the one with engravings.
The layout inside is the same, and it is also a well-regulated courtyard house.
Going forward, I suddenly saw the words "Landlord" on the sign in the crutch.
It turned out that the gate of the landlord's house did not face the street, and a wall blocked the gate on the side. This must be a wandering immortal showing Feng Shui to the landlord's house, so as to block the eyes of those soy sauce and melon eaters on the street. After entering the crutches, I took a look at the side door of the landlord's house. The gate is very low-key and there is no door pier, indicating that the landlord has no official position. But look at his screen wall, there are words on it. I read it vertically, but it was inappropriate; I read it again horizontally, and it was still inappropriate. The owner of the house smiled and said behind me that this is the clan table of the village. Good guy! Don't think this landlord is very low-key, he doesn't even pretend to be a gatekeeper, but he is in charge of the continuation of the clan in the whole village!
As soon as I entered the landlord's house, I was greeted by bursts of aromas, not flowers, but meat. I have also noticed this in other houses. Every house in the village has a dinner party. Starting from the morning, every house sets up four iron pots to cook Sanjiang. It burns liquefied petroleum gas. What is cooking in the pot? A pot of stewed fish is a must. They are all koi from the Guanting Reservoir. Although there is a Zhaitang Reservoir nearby, there is no need to fish here. Then there must be a pot of stewed chicken with mushrooms. The mushrooms are native products from the local mountains. Then there must be a pot of random stew, which contains homemade vermicelli, fatty and lean meat bought in the town, cabbage, mushrooms and lentils. The first three pots are standard, what is stewed in the fourth pot? That is the specialty of each family, some are eggplant, lentils and potatoes; some are pumpkin soup. I walked in the village just now because I was not very hungry, so the smell of meat was not obvious. I also saw two little girls leading a team of "Rafiques", pointing to the four incense pots in the courtyard of the stage on the street and saying We meet here 11:30. I was wondering if the little girl was going to jump into the frying pan with the Rafiks or something? There was a Rafique who shouted Peugeot, and later realized that he was not calling Peugeot, but beer.
I am also a little hungry at the moment, and I feel that the fragrance in those pots is more powerful than gravity. Come on, I will have a meal at the landlord's house. I saw a fish on the table in front of a couple next to me, and half a bowl of Dazhu in each pot. I definitely can’t eat that much. A scallion pancake. To be honest, the fish stewed all morning was so delicious that I ate it all. I ate half of a scallion pancake, and took the other half in my pocket to eat at night.
While eating, I chatted with the owner of the house walking around. It turned out that everyone in this village was surnamed Han, from Hongdong, Shanxi, where Su San was wronged. It seems that Hong Tung is a bit impatient, huh? When these Han people came to this place, they found that the surrounding mountains were very auspicious, like a dragon, and there was a river under the mountain. A dragon must have good Fengshui by the water. The key point is that the hill surrounded by the dragon looks like a stove. There are dragons, water, and a stove. It is so beautiful that they lived here. Because the surname of this family is not Zhao, they cannot use Zao as the name of the village. In this way, a cultural person among them searched out the word "Cuan" and made the name of the village. The village is at the foot of Cuan Mountain, beside the clear water, along the hillside. built a house. There have been 30 generations of elders in the family since they came here, just like the 30 characters on the screen wall at the entrance. Now there are 32 households in the village. In the past, because the place was too remote, although Feng Shui was good, the village was very poor. Because the surrounding villages are outside the mountain, they have more arable land than here, so they are naturally richer. Seeing that people in the village have refurbished their houses, the people here have been unable to renovate them all the time, but they didn't expect that this house without money would become "unintentionally planted willows and willows". The village organized everyone to organize tourism since 1995. In 2003, the State Administration of Cultural Heritage named the historical and cultural ancient village. Since then, the village has enjoyed tourism. The owner of the house thanked his ancestors for leaving this old house; he also thanked God for letting them have money to build a house, but later had no money to renovate; then he thanked the policy of reform and opening up; finally, he thanked us tourists for coming in an endless stream cheer them on. I thought the owner of the house was a poor peasant who had been allocated this house during the land reform. In the end, he said that this was the house of his ancestors. His ancestors also worked hard to farm the land at first, and later bought some land with their savings. Of course, they also hired some people to farm the land. The family was not very rich. The rich man's family in front mainly relies on business, and is richer than his family.
After the village becomes famous, some urbanites who like the old culture will come to visit and travel, and they may even help the villagers plan how to go back to the old. Who are these cultural people? Look at this, the first one at the entrance of the village, the door plaque says "Hongbiao Thatched Cottage", the name is very cultured, right? Reminiscent of the German Sturm und Drang. A look at the inscription, it is Lao She's son Shu Yi. There are a lot of wood carvings on this door, which is very luxurious. The aborigines in the courtyard should not be big families, and big families should not live in the village. His gaudy wood carvings are likely to be fabricated by later generations, especially the wood carving on the door sleeper. According to the system, this family may not have a door pier, but now people just install an old wooden door pier?
No matter how ancient the village is, there will be rich and poor people. Look at the courtyard doors of the poor people's houses. They are extremely simple. There are almost no tiles left on the door frame, and there are no door panels.
The yard that has collapsed.
Take a look at this simple house without a yard, the exterior decoration is just a layer of mud.
Since the village is built along the hillside, of course there are uphill roads. These stone steps and paths are very emotional.
I saw an old lady Cuan walking up the hillside. Looking at her figure, she must have been the women's director of the village when she was young.
I followed her footsteps and saw a Cuan well. Usually the wells in the village are on the low ground, but this well is on the hillside? Oh, the wells drilled on the hillside drink water from the river. Can the wells drilled on the hillside here drink the spring water coming down from the mountain? Anyway, they must have their own logic.
In addition to the common well, the village must also have a common mill. This is the roller in the mill, and it is also very emotional.
按照地主家人说，这个村子最早是在明代从山西移民过来的，可是我看这里的房子都是清代民居式样，而且是清代比较晚期，已经很少有明式痕迹。不知道为什么？一定是在清代晚期有一次大规模重建。总之，周末跑来看山却走进了一座古村，这座古村还是很有意思的，可以看到清代北方民居的风格。
