On the afternoon of September 14, we arrived in Urumqi by train from Turpan. Take bus No. 909 at the North Square of the railway station, 17 stops, 1 yuan per person, get off at the cold storage station, walk 250 meters along Jinger Road, and arrive at the Home Inn (Jinger Road, Changjiang Road, Urumqi), which we booked on Ctrip. 4.3 points, 136 yuan for a big bed room (116 yuan to the store, 20 yuan less for members). After checking in, we immediately took bus No. 73 from the front of the hotel, 1 yuan per person, and the journey took about 40 minutes to Hongshan Park.
【Red Mountain Park】
Hongshan Park is the first stop of this trip to Urumqi. The park is located in Shayibake District, Urumqi, and is named after the ocher-red color of the mountain. Now it is a free and open park in Urumqi integrating tourism, classical humanities, and citizen fitness. It is a national AAAA-level tourist attraction, one of the new ten scenic spots in Urumqi, and a place where foreign tourists come to Urumqi to check in. You can take bus No. 29, No. 35, No. 61, No. 62, No. 63, No. 73 from the urban area to Hongshan Park.
"The tower is named after the mountain, and the mountain is magnificent because of the tower." Hongshan Tower is the symbol of Hongshan Park. Hongshan Pagoda is a blue-gray, nine-story hexagonal solid brick tower with a height of 10.5 meters. The structure of the tower base and the tower body is rigorous, retractable and retractable, and the construction is solid. After more than 200 years of wind, snow and earthquakes, they are still intact. The "tape reflecting the setting sun" of Hongshan Pagoda was originally one of the eight famous old sights in Urumqi. Song Bolu, a poet in the Qing Dynasty, once praised Hongshan Pagoda in a poem: "Beyond the sound of flowing water and horses, two mountain peaks are reflected by the sunset tower".
Today, the Red Mountain Pagoda still stands on the cliff of the Red Mountain. Under the cliff is the rushing Urumqi River. But now it has long been hard to find, and it has been replaced by a busy National Highway 216. It is said that when people came to Hongshan Park in the early days and climbed the cliffs of Hongshan, they could enjoy the beautiful scenery of the four seasons of "wind, flowers, snow and moon" in Urumqi at 360 degrees. Today, what we see is an urban scene full of tall buildings and vehicles. The vicissitudes of life have changed dramatically, this Urumqi is already that Urumqi!
Coming down from the Hongshan Tower, we went to the Overlook Building in the park.
Located on the south side of Hongshan Pagoda, it is a three-story imitation Qing style tower with a height of 22 meters and a length of 138 meters. Surrounded by corridors, there are carved beams and painted buildings in the corridors. It is said that if you go up to the Overlook Tower, you can: "All the scenery can be collected from one pavilion", the peaks of the Tianshan Mountains can be seen from a distance, and the bustling city can be seen up close." Two situations, two tastes. It's a pity that we When I came to the gate of the overlooking building, the door was closed to thank the guests, and the opening time was long past.
Walking through the overlooking building in front of us about 100 meters to the west, we came to the memorial statue of Lin Zexu in Hongshan Mountain. "The heroic spirit of the world is still awe-inspiring", a late justice! In 1987, after a lapse of 148 years, the 42nd session of the United Nations General Assembly passed a resolution to officially designate the day when the "Humen Elimination of Tobacco" was completed as the "International Anti-drug Day". The Lin Zexu Memorial Statue on the Red Mountain stands for this purpose! At this moment, facing this majestic and strong statue of Mr., I feel heavy in my heart!
In June 1839, Lin Zexu led the vigorous opium sale in Humen; in 1840, the Qing government failed in the Opium War, and Lin Zexu was dismissed for "poor management"; in 1842, Lin Zexu was dismissed and sent to Ili, Xinjiang; A member who was released, boarded Hongshan, and recited a poem: "Ren Kuangge, lying drunk on the mouth of Hongshan. Where the wind is strong, the wine scales rise", expressing his desolate and tragic feelings in the face of broken mountains and rivers. Since then, Lin Zexu has made a series of achievements in Xinjiang, and advocated Zuo Zongtang to recover Xinjiang, which are well-known to this day; the famous sentence left by Mr. Lin, "If the country lives and dies for the benefit of the country, should we avoid it because of misfortunes and blessings" is still remembered by history.
【International Grand Bazaar】
Coming out of Hongshan Park, we took bus No. 61 at the east gate of the park, 1 yuan per person, and the journey took about 40 minutes. We arrived at Erdaoqiao International Grand Bazaar in the evening. Bazaar (Uyghur meaning, means trade fair), Erdaoqiao International Grand Bazaar in Urumqi was completed in 2003, and it is currently the largest bazaar in the world. It integrates Islamic architectural style, culture, commerce, entertainment and catering. Known as the "Window of Xinjiang-Central Asia". Today, it has become one of the popular places for people to travel to Urumqi. You can get here by taking bus No. 10, No. 16, No. 61, No. 63 in the urban area and getting off at Erdaoqiao Station.
Erdaoqiao International Grand Bazaar consists of six buildings with a construction area of over 100,000 square meters. These buildings have a strong Islamic architectural style. On the basis of covering architectural functions and a sense of the times, they reproduce the prosperity of the ancient Silk Road. It embodies the customs of the Western Regions and Central Asia and the regional ethnic culture.
The International Grand Bazaar is a symbol of commercial prosperity in Xinjiang, and it is also a landmark building complex in Urumqi as a city of ethnic minorities. The buildings here use the traditional method of grinding brick joints, and the main tone of the decoration is earthy yellow, which integrates the architectural elements of Greece, ancient Rome, and various ethnic groups in Central and Western Asia. It is full of strong Islamic style. If you are in it, you will feel as if you have come to a foreign country in Central and Western Asia.
It is said that the prototype of the first sightseeing tower of the Grand Bazaar is taken from the early Arabian "light tower". . Take the elevator to the top of the tower, and you can have a panoramic view of the streets of the Grand Bazaar and look down at the amorous feelings of this thousand-year-old city.
The eye-catching special snacks here are: huge Abula’s home naan (the largest bag has a diameter of 3 meters, and it is advertised in front of the store. We bought a bag with a diameter of 40 cm for 15 yuan, and we are going to go there at noon tomorrow. Tianchi as the staple food), big plate chicken, baked buns, fried pork noodles, mutton pilaf, kebabs, old Liangpizi, sheep's feet, Sanzi noodles, etc... along the Grand Bazaar Square and The pedestrian street is lined up. You are dazzled by looking at it, and you don’t know what to eat. Finally, we found a Wal-Mart supermarket under the Grand Bazaar. We ate a good fast food meal at 18 yuan per person in the restaurant, and bought a 500-gram roast chicken for tomorrow’s lunch for 11 yuan.
The Grand Bazar has many varieties and a large scale, which is spectacular and breathtaking. Everything that is available in the Mainland is available here, and there is also what is not available in the Mainland. All kinds of ethnic costumes, shoes, hats and clothing, carpet hangings, leather knives, musical instruments and pottery; gold, silver and bronze handicrafts, cosmetics, dried fruits; When you walk in the Grand Bazaar, it is like walking into a maze, that is, as if you have come to Ankara in Turkey and Casablanca in Morocco!
In fact, many years of experience tell us that no matter where you travel, it is best not to go to popular places for dining and shopping, and the Grand Bazaar is no exception. According to the introduction, we went to Beiyuanchun, the largest comprehensive wholesale market in Urumqi. The dried fruits, main and non-staple foods there are very cheap (big cooked corn is 1 yuan per root, the best melons and fruits are no more than 10 yuan per kilogram, naan cakes are 1 yuan per piece, and meals are also cheap and affordable. About 15 yuan, you can eat to your heart's content). The important thing is that you can see the real consumption level of local residents. Rational consumption should also be part of travel.
Coming out of Wal-Mart, we bid farewell to the Erdaoqiao International Grand Bazaar with a beautiful night view, took bus No. 308 from the exit, got off at the cold storage station, and walked back to the hotel. So far, the half-day and one-night walk in Urumqi has ended. Tomorrow, we will go to Tianshan Tianchi.
【Tianshan Tianchi】
On the morning of September 15th, we took bus No. 73 from the front of the hotel to Urumqi Beijiao Passenger Station, and took a shuttle bus from the passenger station, 15 yuan per person, with rolling departures. The journey took about 1 hour and arrived at Fukang Passenger Station. After that, transfer to a seven-seat minibus at the station, 10 yuan per person, and leave as soon as it is full, and arrive at the ticket station of Tianchi Scenic Spot at 10:30 in the morning. Tianchi ticket is 95 yuan + traffic car 60 yuan/person, 65-year-old ticket and traffic car are half price, and the per capita traffic of this trip to Tianchi is 130 yuan (the price is 50% cheaper than the through train group tour 260 yuan/person).
Tianshan Tianchi is a moraine barrier lake, known as "Yaochi" in ancient times. It belongs to Fukang City, Changji Prefecture, Xinjiang, on the north slope of Bogda Peak, the main peak of East Tianshan Mountain, 110 kilometers away from Urumqi City. It is a famous tourist scenic spot centered on alpine lakes. Tianchi is 1980 meters above sea level, 3.5 kilometers long from north to south, and 1.5 kilometers wide at its widest point. It is said that Emperor Mu of the Western Zhou Dynasty had a banquet and sang songs with the Queen Mother of the West three thousand years ago, so it left the reputation of "Yaochi". Reflected by the snow peaks in Tianchi, surrounded by spruce trees, the clear water looks like a mirror, the scenery is picturesque, and the scenery is very beautiful. It is now an AAAAA-level tourist attraction, a national geological park, etc., and was included in the World Natural Heritage List in 2013.
There are still more than 30 kilometers from Tianchi Ticket Station to Tianchi. On the way, there are viewing spots of Tianjing Shenchi Folk Custom Garden, Shirengou, and Xuehai Three Peaks. Take the scenic spot traffic car and listen to the guide's introduction of local folk customs along the way. The first stop is the Folk Custom Garden. It feels like this is a small but complete "little bazaar" that integrates catering, shopping, impromptu singing and dancing performances, etc., probably a "by-product" derived from Tianshan Tianchi tourism.
After entering this folk custom garden, I was almost not frightened by the strong offensive of small merchants and hawkers. I saw that many tourists in the group were firmly "glued" here with the tacit cooperation of the tour guide and the industry. At that time, the guide on the car also became a salesman. Our theme is Tianchi. After a lot of fighting in the park, we finally found the exit of the folk custom garden, and finally got on the traffic car again. This time, we didn't stop, and went straight to Tianchi.
I heard online jokes before that Tianshan Tianchi and Changbai Mountain Tianchi are both "places where you regret not coming, but you also regret coming." We have been to Tianchi Lake in Changbai Mountain, and we feel that its scenery is very spectacular and charming. So far, we have a deep impression. Today, we are still full of expectations for Tianchi Lake in Tianshan Mountain. When the traffic vehicle arrives at Tianchi, the scenery after getting off the vehicle is obvious. Under the blue sky and white clouds, there are continuous snow-capped mountains, blue lakes, green pines and cypresses, bright sunshine, and transparent light and shadow. It is not an exaggeration to say that "I knew" Yaochi "beautiful, so why go to the West Lake". All things in the world are mostly "hearing is believing, seeing is believing".
There are many tourists in Tianshan Tianchi today, and people are moved by the scenery in front of them, looking for it here, enjoying themselves and forgetting themselves. You will be overwhelmed by the wonderful scenery of lakes and mountains, and indulge in this gift of nature!
In front of you is the majestic Bogda main peak ("Bogda" in Mongolian, which means holy mountain) in the Eastern Tianshan Mountains, which is 5445 meters above sea level. There are two shoulder-to-shoulder peaks on the left and right of the main peak. Looking at the peaks rising side by side, they are continuous and abrupt, like a pen holder. The glaciers on the top of the peak have not melted for thousands of years, shining with silvery light. The silver snow peaks and the blue and clear water of the Tianchi Lake complement each other, forming a colorful natural landscape of this alpine flat lake.
The literati of past dynasties visited Tianchi and left many poems and prose. "Tianshan Longshui is like a mirror of the sky, and the reflection of the floating blue and flying springs and boats. The vast clouds and peaks reflect the snow in the pool, and the drunk moon around the lake enters the fairyland." At that time, Ji Xiaolan's "Tianchi Poetry and Tour with Friends" fully captured the beauty of Tianchi Tianchi in Tianshan Mountains, and it can be called a classic poem.
In Xinjiang, where there are beautiful places, there must be stories. The water of Tianchi is clear and clear, with many changes. Therefore, there must be many stories about her. Most of these stories are related to the goddess of Chinese grandmothers—the Queen Mother of the West. The legendary Big Tianchi is the bath tub of the Queen Mother of the West, and the East and West Small Tianchi become the washbasins and footbaths of the Queen Mother of the West. , and these legends all originated from 3,000 years ago, when Emperor Mu of the Western Zhou Dynasty and the Queen Mother of the West had a feast and song on the bank of Tianchi Lake, leaving a long story.
Tianshan Tianchi scenic area is very large, and there are many attractions, mainly including: West Queen Mother Ancestral Temple, East and West Xiaotianchi, Maya Mountain, etc. The viewing items of Tianchi include: Longtan Biyue (the west small Tianchi 2 kilometers below Tianchi); Nanshan Wangxue (located on the moraine dam above Tianchi); Xishan Guansong (located on the shady slope of Maya Mountain on the west side of Tianchi); Xuanhu Waterfall (East Xiao Tianchi, located 4 kilometers above Tianchi); Haifeng Chenxi (watching the sunrise on Maya Mountain). It is only 13 kilometers to walk around the Tianchi trail + plank road on foot, and it will take about half a day to walk around. Most of these highlights are not within our plan.
The mountains are high and the roads are dangerous. It is difficult for ancient people to reach Tianchi. Only those who are brave and strong and good at riding can come here in person. 200 years ago, Sun Mingliang, who was then the capital of Urumqi, led a group of riders to climb Bogda Mountain in the forty-eighth year of Qing Emperor Qianlong (1783) in order to find water sources. He saw the Tianchi Lake and dug a mouth to divert water down the mountain to irrigate the farmland. . His "Inscription on Dredging Canals at Tianchi in Lingshan Mountain" named the lake after Tianchi, which is the real origin of Tianchi's name.
Our plan to come here is to see Tianchi + Xiwangmu Ancestral Temple. This is the Linhu plank road to the Ancestral Temple of the West Queen Mother. It doesn't seem to be far away, but the map navigation is 4 kilometers back and forth. We walked halfway and calculated that there was not much time left. Then we chose to give up and returned to the station immediately. The same way down the mountain.
There are two "Tianchi" in China, one is in Changbai Mountain and the other is in Tianshan Mountain. The two phases are 4600 kilometers away. The pearl, the gift treasure in the great rivers and mountains. On a golden autumn day, we visited and witnessed this "yaochi" that fell into the mortal world. After more than 3 hours of sightseeing, we returned to Urumqi on the same road and went to the Xinjiang History Museum.
【Xinjiang Museum】
In 1934, Swedish archaeologist Bergman discovered this ancient tomb group with more than 1,000 coffins beside a dry small river in Lop Nur, Tarim Basin, Xinjiang (175 kilometers west of the ancient Loulan Kingdom). Later, it was called Xiaohe cemetery.
At that time, due to the inability of the Chinese authorities to excavate and protect the cemetery, the Xiaohe cemetery gradually disappeared in the wind and sand. After being dormant for 66 years, it was rediscovered in 2000, and the Xiaohe cemetery was rediscovered. "Xiaohe Princess" comes from this tomb.
The little river princess (also known as the mummy of the smiling princess) who had been sleeping for nearly 4,000 years and a piece of dry cheese stored beside her for more than 3,800 years shocked the international archaeological community. According to authoritative conclusions: the mummies unearthed from the Xiaohe cemetery are all of mixed race, and they have mixed genes of Europeans and East Asians. It was the result of intermarriage between westward Asians and eastward Europeans. (The mummy of Princess Xiaohe has now been moved to Beijing for collection). Visitors can only see pictures of the excavation here.
According to the unearthed seals and costumes, a thousand-year-old mummy here (pictured below) was a majestic general at that time. The deceased was Zhang Xiong, the left guard general of the ancient Gaochang court, and an official of the second rank. He died at about 57 years old. aged (died of hernia). His ancestral home is Nanyang, Henan, and he moved to the Western Regions with his grandfather. His aunt is the concubine of the Gaochang king, and his wife, Qu, is from the ancient Gaochang king's family.
There are also many mummy corpses that have been sleeping for thousands of years on display in the museum. He (she) seems to be sleeping souls, who have come to this world alive and exist in all parts of Xinjiang. He (she) used to be a real life, and now they are displayed here, showing that Xinjiang - the motherland The endless magic and ethnic diversity of this land of the Western Regions. All the mummies in the exhibition hall have histories and stories! Unique on display! Absolutely shocking!
The treasure of the town hall is the "Fuxi Nuwa Picture" unearthed from the Astana Tomb of the Ancient Gaochang State in Turpan. According to legend, Fuxi and Nuwa, the first ancestors of China, copulated under the sun, moon and stars, according to the rules and norms respectively, and they were interpreted as the Chinese version of Adam and Eve. The double-helix mating method is consistent with the DNA structure of the genetic code inherited by human beings, and it is also a magical coincidence between myths and modern science.
The treasure of the town hall, a national first-class cultural relic [five stars out of the East benefit China] Han Dynasty brocade armguard, known as one of the greatest discoveries of Chinese archaeology in the 20th century. In October 1995, the Chinese and Japanese expedition team discovered the brocade in an ancient tomb at the Niya site in Minfeng County, Hotan, Xinjiang. The brocade is 18.5 centimeters long and 12.5 centimeters wide. It is made of brocade and has eight Chinese characters in seal script: "Five stars come out of the east and benefit China". The unearthed brocade left people dumbfounded. It not only embodies the exquisite textile craftsmanship of the Han Dynasty, but also heralds astronomical phenomena as auspiciousness for the country. It has extraordinary enlightenment both in history and in contemporary times!
Gazing at these thousand-year-old cultural relics through the display cabinets, camels and horses guarding the tomb, graceful Buddha statues, painted paintings of ladies with breasts and breasts, and sergeants Daolang with high spirits...Here, we can see the thousand-year-old Silk Road Buddha The accumulation of wealth in the country, seeing the extravagance of the world of mortals, seeing the gold and iron horses in this land of the Western Regions!
"The more the dead, the more prosperous the prosperous world will be." Walking in the tunnel of time, every piece of cultural relics in the museum shows that Xinjiang, the border of the motherland, has a vast territory, colorful ethnic groups and splendid culture. "Thousands of years have passed in the past", our ancestors have fought bloody battles for this vast territory, worked hard to develop it, and created many miracles. Today, we still have an important task on our shoulders, to paint this territory more and more colorful; to protect the peace and tranquility that did not come easily; to make people come to Xinjiang to travel and see the scenery, and become more at ease; it is our generation after generation. Inheritance and responsibility!
Tonight, we will take a train from Urumqi to Fuhai County in Altay, northern Xinjiang, to explore a (recently discovered) magical water Yadan called "Sea Devil City". For this, we are full of enthusiasm for the next journey expect!
(End of this article/to be continued) Jinling Lesou 2020/830
