In the early morning, accompanied by the crowing of cocks and dogs, the largest Miao village in the world woke up from a deep dream. The sun was shining all over the mountains, and the alleys connecting every household began to be lively, and the smoke from the cooking smoke was like clouds and fog.
This is one of the most beautiful scenic spots in Guizhou. It takes 3 hours from Chongqing to Kaili, and from Kaili to Xijiang. It is the distance from the urban forest to the Miao Village in the mountains. In the era of rapid development, isolated places still maintain the most primitive mystery, waiting for us to explore and discover.
In Xijiang, there is such a performance every afternoon. It tells the story of the Miao people for thousands of years. In the open air, there are dozens of actors and hundreds of spectators. Moved by this amazing performance.
In Miao Village, there is such a special song called "Toast Song". Whenever distinguished guests come, they will use this unique and strong way to receive guests from afar. In the customs and habits of the Miao people, wine is a very sacred and noble etiquette. At the performance site, dozens of sisters also brought sweet rice wine to the audience and friends, expressing the welcome of Miao Village to them.
Bronze drum, this is an ancient dance that many people have never seen before. When dancing, you need to beat the bronze drum. In ancient times, the bronze drum was a very important ritual instrument, and it was only played on major festivals. The dance is kept properly on weekdays, and this dance also shows the talents of the elder brothers and sisters of the Miao family who are good at singing and dancing.
According to historical records, the Miao people have undergone five major migrations. During the years of change, they only kept their language intact, but their writing was gone, so the Miao people are also a nation without writing. Therefore, their history can only be recorded by ancient songs such as word of mouth, but here, you can see the old elders singing on stage. This is the most simple voice, and it is also the most sincere expression of emotion of the Miao family. .
Among the Miao people, there is one of the most beautiful dances called the Golden Pheasant Dance. There is also a beautiful myth and legend about this dance.
According to legend, the golden pheasant bird helped the ancestors of the Miao nationality in nature, wiped out the locusts, and brought five-colored seeds, so that the Miao people could prosper and live and work in peace and contentment in their future lives.
The golden pheasant dance is a dance performed by Miao women imitating the movements of chickens, and it is also one of the national intangible cultural heritages.
The older brothers and sisters of the Miao family who are good at singing and dancing have many special skills, such as playing songs with leaves.
Many people know that through the control of mouth shape and airflow, leaves or bamboo leaves can make sounds, and they can not only make leaves make sounds, but also blow out songs. After listening to a piece of "Qinghai-Tibet Plateau" live, they were completely impressed and not broken at all. The high pitch is not hoarse, crisp and loud.
In addition to experiencing the original customs of the Miao people and watching performances at close range, there are still many ways to play and experience in Xijiang. You can go to the viewing platform to watch the night view, where the lights of thousands of houses are shining like stars, and you can taste a bowl of authentic Kaili sour Soup fish, you can feel the mountains and rivers and so on.
Chu He's Long Table Banquet
In Miao Village, there is a very authentic restaurant called Chuhe. I think it has something to do with "the day of hoeing". The owner must be a person with a lot of feelings and stories. There is an authentic long table banquet here. .
The long table banquet is just like the name, it is a long table filled with various special dishes, and the fish in sour soup is the most representative one. Kaili’s fish in sour soup focuses on the word sour, which is different from sauerkraut. Fish, sour and spicy, can whet your appetite after two sips.
And before the meal, there is such a special welcome ceremony, that is the mountain and flowing water.
High mountains and flowing water are a way for the Miao people to welcome distinguished guests. Several Miao sisters carry sweet rice wine and pour it layer by layer. They sing while pouring the wine. Get up, although the alcohol content is not high, but the stamina is quite strong.
Here I ate authentic bacon, fried with chili and garlic sprouts, the taste is very fragrant, with some spiciness, and it is very warm to eat on winter nights.
The dishes of the long table feast are various in style, and the taste is not bad. From cold dishes to snacks, each has its own characteristics. It is very good to travel to Qianhu Miao Village in Xijiang and taste the local delicacies. When people get together, they can eat and chat while eating, which is very pleasant.
Star of Xijiang, charming night
In Xijiang, when the stars come out, it’s time to watch the night view. Along the mountain, a road extends to the middle of the mountain. In a place with an excellent view, a viewing platform is set up for tourists to see the scenery. It is useful, and the platform is quite spacious, and it is no problem to occupy dozens of individuals.
No matter when you come here, there are people who specialize in taking pictures, "snapshot, xxx yuan for a snapshot", but it seems that more people are, choosing to feel it with their hearts.
The Miao village built on the mountainside, under the speckled light, appears and disappears from time to time. There is a kind of tranquility that has been accumulated for thousands of years away from the city.
Every brick and every tile here has its own story, just like everyone we come and go.
In my opinion, the greatness of Xijiang is not in the row upon row of buildings, but in the historical stories composed of small characters, which represent the history and culture of the Miao family, record the changes of the years, and see the development of the times. Inheriting the culture keeps it alive.
In the morning, Miao Village looks the most beautiful
If you don’t want to see piles of tourists pouring in here, then I suggest you go to the Miao Village in the early morning. When the sun has not yet fully risen, wisps of clouds and mist float in the valley, and the whole village is extremely quiet, as if in one night. Back to how it was 20 years ago.
Built by the mountains and born by water, it is like a paradise isolated from the world. For thousands of years, the Miao people in Xijiang have lived here, farming at sunrise and resting at sunset, without being disturbed by the outside world, and living their leisurely life.
Twelve Barriers
At the gate of the scenic spot of Qianhu Miao Village in Xijiang, every morning, there are 12 wine tasting activities.
This is the custom of welcoming guests of the Miao people, and it is also the most solemn and highest etiquette reception standard of the Miao people. Twelve bowls of wine are erected in a line, and each bar wine has a special meaning. Visitors can drink from the first to the last. , You can also choose the one you like to challenge.
For example, the second wine is called kindness wine, which expresses the kindness and virtue of the Miao people advocating being kind to others and being with others. They sang and danced to welcome tourists and friends.
The oldest people in the Miao Village also sang and danced beside them. Although they couldn't understand the music they sang, they could still feel their sincere voice and warmest welcome.
Miao costume experience
In the customs of the Miao people, if a daughter is born, their mother will make some silver ornaments and hang them on the clothes. When the daughter is about to get married, the clothes will become the dowry. It is also covered with all kinds of silver ornaments, which are worth about 300,000 RMB when measured now.
Therefore, when girls come here, they can also rent a Miao clothing to experience it. Wearing sparkling clothes, in the sun, it blends with the beautiful scenery of mountains and rivers, looking gentle and moving.
In Miao villages, it is not expensive to rent such a set of clothes, usually 10-20 yuan, and you can choose the color and clothing you like.
It is also a rare experience to be able to wear local special costumes, integrate into the customs, and be an authentic "local" when traveling.
In the warm winter sun, I came to the Xijiang that I miss. Thousands of Miao villages are more shocking than I imagined. Taste a bowl of wine, drink a cup of tea, bathe in the sun, and listen to the most moving voices in the Miao village.
If I have to go to Xijiang again, I still choose winter.