The photos in this article are all taken by the author of "Black and White Touch", all rights reserved, and unauthorized use is strictly prohibited!
This day is August 11, and the Perseid meteor shower is coming to the northern hemisphere. At ten o'clock in the evening, shortly after the sunset in Sailimu Lake, the bright crescent moon also disappeared into the west mountain with the afterglow. The night sky was cloudless, windless, moonless, and silent. I was the only tourist in the Khan Bay parking lot. The car, the weather, the location, and the harmony of people, set up a small tent, and wait for the fourth stargazing on the road.
In the middle of the night, it was already pitch black, there were occasional rustling noises outside the car window, and the eyes had just adapted to the darkness. Looking around, a few pairs of will-o’-the-wisp-like pupils flickered brightly and darkly, wolves? boar? I got out of the car and approached cautiously. It turned out to be a herd of nocturnal cows with slow steps. Are they always so quiet? Still can't bear to disturb the tranquility of the night.
Under the quiet night sky, there are only me and the quiet herd of cows. Occasionally, an unwelcome car drives by, but there are only one or two cars throughout the night, which have already broken through the dark curtain of silence. I hope that the peaceful place will not be disturbed. herd.
At one o'clock in the morning, the Milky Way appears, like a long and narrow canyon in a mountain of stars, stretching across the entire sky from north to south, extending to the other side of the horizon. This is a slowly moving "canyon", which can even be perceived by the naked eye. It is still crisscrossing north and south at this moment, and it is already leaning east and west at the next moment. Who is waving the fire whip of the universe with the vast divine power?
A few hours ago, the joyful dark blue and the golden sunset bathed in the sunset are silent and humble at this moment. No one cares about the joys and sorrows of "the last tear of the Atlantic Ocean". The tiny silhouette of the foreground sets off the higher, grander, more eternal, burning blaze.
On this majestic and vast stage, there is an occasional shooting star, which is so short that you can't catch it with your eyes, and you can only wait for it to break into your sight. They are aimless arrows, proclaiming the power of leaving the string with a moment of light, and finally ending in silence without a trace. Why do people attach their wishes to such an elusive moment? They probably know it well: a beautiful yearning is as illusory as a shooting star, and it may not be achieved, but there must always be some hope, even if it is very faint.... ..
The camera is aimed at the northern sky, under long exposure, with Polaris as the center, all the stars in the sky, including the Big Dipper, are constantly revolving around it. Why is the Polaris so great, surrounded by stars? In fact, Polaris is not special at all, no different from those billions of stars, but its position relationship with the earth is a bit special - it is located exactly on the extension line of the earth's axis. The star trails we see are not "stars holding the moon", but an illusion caused by the rotation of the earth. This is just like the ancients thought that the earth was the center of the universe. Standing on the earth, the sun and the moon are revolving around us!
It can be seen that our eyes can deceive us, and our vanity is more willing to deceive us.
But conversely, if we don't start from our own senses and experience to perceive the world, where can we start?
The earth is not the center of the universe, so where is it? the sun? Polaris?
Why does the universe need a center?
If there is no center, how to define the direction of rotation and motion?
If it cannot be defined, why can we see the order with the naked eye, but can we use our wisdom to discover the law?
Or: center, boundary; movement, stillness; chaos, order... These concepts are as superficial as deceiving our senses, but they are just covered with a layer of "logic" and "reason" in the "Emperor's New Clothes" ?
If so, is the reflection on "Emperor's New Clothes" also "Emperor's New Clothes"?
Perhaps, the starting point of human senses and experience has deviated from the truth, so the more we know, the stronger the barriers of the world of lies. If "life is like a dream" is not a metaphor of exclamation, we will be more and more trapped in the dream, and the truth will be farther and farther away from us.
In other words, "truth" is just a relative concept. Ants have the truth of ants, cats and dogs have the truth of cats and dogs, people have the truth of humans, even you have your truth, and I have my truth...Life The elder is only a hundred years old, and the truth that Haoshou has learned through experience is actually the relative truth and the absolute falsehood. From this point of view, it is a good choice to have fun in time.
In this way, there is no difference between fanatical and superstitious heretics and rational and calm philosophers. In their respective dreams, just be happy!
It's far away, the starry sky always makes people have boundless reverie, forgive me...
At 7 o'clock in the morning, the sun rises as usual, and the light of the sun shines on the lake. The "truth" may be false, but the refreshing warmth of the breeze and warm sun at this moment is real.
Soon the sun was shining, and Sailimu Lake was full of vitality again. Let's continue on the road to see the charming scenery on the West Bank and South Bank.
The high platform on the opposite side of Khan Bay is the ruins of Dianjiangtai, where it is said that Genghis Khan once served as a general. There is a Mongolian obo named "Chagan Gol Obo" here, which is the largest obo in Bortala. Its history can be traced back to Genghis Khan's Western Expedition 800 years ago and Chahar's westward migration to the border and Turhu more than 200 years ago. Special Donggui, rough and heavy, magnificent.
Standing at Dianjiangtai, you can overlook the spectacular group of yurts on the grassland, which is called "Gulieyan". Mutual aid, mobility, flexible survival concept. The ancient Mongols derived a decimal militarized social structure, such as one hundred households, one thousand households, and ten thousand household heads. This system maintains the independence of each ancient column, and at the same time multiple ancient columns can form a larger of Cyreyan.
In the intermountain basin on the west side of Sailimu Lake, there is the Xihai Grassland known as "China's Drunken Beauty in the Air Grassland". It is the most expansive landscape grassland in Sailimu Lake, and it is also a famous excellent summer pasture in Xinjiang. Grasslands are rich in species. The ice and snow melt in early summer every year, and the small rivers are full of water. The earliest ice flowers send out the message of spring. Dip into the distant sky.
There was an accident at night on the side of the road in Xihai Grassland. A car collided with a cow. The scene was extremely tragic. According to regulations, driving around the lake at night is not allowed, not to mention polluting the starry sky. The cattle here have developed a habit of wandering leisurely after dark without being disturbed. Breaking the rules at this time is not asking for trouble!
Continue on to Kele Yongzhu scenic spot. "Kele Yongzhu" is a Kazakh language, meaning "many pearl springs". It is located in the lakeside freshwater swamp area. The spring water seeps out from the forest and mountain streams and contains a variety of mineral elements such as calcium, magnesium and potassium needed by the human body. , sweet and delicious to drink, pure heart and eyesight.
Not long along the lake plank road is the scenic spot of golden flowers and purple flowers. In late spring and early summer, surrounded by the blue lake, golden Altai buttercups cover the grasslands from the lakeside to the foot of the mountain, and then purple false primroses bloom again, like a tapestry. Gold and purple are intertwined, so it is called "golden flower and purple flower".
Turn eastward along the lake and come to the source of the milk sea, which is a luscious spring at the foot of Keguerqin Mountain.
There is a stone standing on the viewing platform, and it is written "There is a kind of blue in the world, called Sailimu Lake Blue". Looking at the lake in the distance, it is indeed a different kind of blue: clear and saturated, rich and refreshing, with ripples. It is like the wind painting on the surface of the lake.
Reluctantly, bid farewell to Sailimu Lake, head west across the spectacular Guozigou Bridge, through the wild and verdant ravines, and arrive at Qingshuihe Town, Huocheng County.
Huocheng is located in the northwest of the Ili River Valley, with the Tianshan Mountains in the north. It is the throat of the "Eurasian Continental Bridge" and an important town on the northern route of the ancient Silk Road. Huocheng is at the same latitude as Provence, France, which produces lavender, and has similar climate and soil conditions. It has become the largest lavender planting base in China and is known as the "Hometown of Lavender in China".
Lavender has beautiful and elegant leaf-shaped flowers and long and beautiful blue-purple inflorescences. It is not only beautiful, but also exudes a mellow and rich aroma. It is known as "aromatic herb" and "queen of vanilla". Every May and June is the flowering period of Huocheng lavender, and there will be a wave of replanting in September and October. In August, only a few scattered fields have patches of lavender.
Qingshuihe Town continues westward for 30 kilometers to Khorgos Port, which is the largest integrated land and railway port in Xinjiang, across the Khorgos River from Kazakhstan. It is also the starting and ending point of Lianhuo Expressway, National Highway 312 and China-Central Asia Natural Gas Pipeline.
There is a Sino-Kazakh International Cultural Tourism Zone near the port, which is composed of Guomen Scenic Area, Central Asian Style Street, Jianxin Square and other landscapes. You can visit duty-free shops here and experience the Kazakh style.
Horgos goes 100 kilometers southeast to Yining, passing through the ancient city of Huiyuan.
Huiyuan ancient city is the first of the nine cities in Ili in history, and the former site of the general's mansion in Ili is still preserved in the city.
Yili has been an important passage from Xinjiang to Central Asia since ancient times. In order to strengthen the governance of the Yili area, Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty set up General Yili here, built Huiyuan City, and successively built eight satellite cities around it, collectively referred to as "Nine Cities of Yili". . In the twenty-seventh year of Qianlong (1762), the Qing government set up "President Yili and other generals" in Huiyuan City to govern the military and political affairs in the north and south of Tianshan Mountain.
The Yili General's Mansion is located on the East Street of the ancient city of Huiyuan, facing south from the north, with a large scale. On the central axis, there are the gate of the General's Mansion, the main hall, and the General's Pavilion. There are east and west barracks, guest rooms and study rooms on both sides. After Tsarist Russia invaded and occupied Ili in 1871, the old mansion was demolished. This is the Ili General's Mansion rebuilt by the Qing government in 1882.
There is also a Russian-style building not far from Yili General's Mansion:
Although the ancient city of Huiyuan is not big, it has many scenic spots, including Huiyuan Ancient City Exhibition Hall, Confucian Temple and other historical sites showing Huiyuan's history. There is a local saying that "Xinjiang in the Qing Dynasty looked at Huiyuan", not only because Huiyuan was the seat of General Yili in the Qing Dynasty, but also the city was the political, economic, military and cultural center of Xinjiang for a long period of time in the Qing Dynasty. This can be seen from the large number of altars and temples in the ancient city of Huiyuan. There are Longevity Palace, Guandi Temple, Bawa Temple, General Liu Meng Temple, Huoshen Temple, Taishang Laojun Temple, Chenghuang Temple, Wenchang Palace The ancient buildings of various religions, such as Kuixing Pavilion, Lama Temple, etc., reflect the solemn and grand sacrificial activities in Huiyuan at that time.
Huiyuan Ancient City continues to the east for 40 kilometers and then arrives in Yining.
Yining is the capital of Ili Kazakh Autonomous Prefecture. Ili Prefecture is not small. It not only includes the Ili River Valley known as the "South of the Great Wall", but also the Tacheng and Altay regions in the north. It can be said that it occupies the northern Xinjiang. "Half of the country". Our "Ili Small Ring Road" trip revolves around the Ili River Valley.
(Ili River)
Yining is also an "Excellent Tourist City in China". In the urban area, there are scenic spots full of ethnic customs such as Liuxing Street, Kazanqi, and Yili River, as well as food courts such as the Grand Bazaar on Hanren Street. The beautiful scenery and delicious food make people want to come here. Walk.
Liuxing Street is located in the northwest of Yining urban area. It is not a street, but six main roads radiating from a central square, dividing the nearby blocks into six fan-shaped districts, forming a unique hexagonal block. There are courtyard buildings with different styles on both sides of the street, inhabited by residents of Han, Uyghur, Kazak, Hui, Russian, Tatar and other ethnic groups.
Liuxing Street was built in the mid-1930s and planned and designed by German engineer Vasili. Its design concept is completely different from the grid grid pattern of traditional Chinese urban blocks, but derived from the ideal city concept of Vitruvius in ancient Rome. It is also the concept of "Garden City" proposed by Howard, a modern British social activist.
The buildings on Liuxing Street are colorful and in different shapes: Uyghur houses have curved arches, and mulberry trees are planted in front of the doors; trees planted in the courtyards of Hui people often protrude from the fence, and there are beautiful gradient curtains and curtains on the doors and windows; Russian houses have spires and high platforms...
Although this is a tourist area bustling with tourists, it has an idyllic tranquility. The tidy streets extend slowly in six fans, and courtyards with beautiful flowers are distributed along the street. The walls of the courtyards are painted in blue, green, and orange. Red, purple pink...it looks quiet and comfortable under the cover of trees, like a paradise in the picture scroll.
There is a folk culture exhibition hall in Lane 10, Liguang Street, Liuxing District, and there is also an accordion collection hall in the hall. If you have related hobbies, you must visit here.
The Accordion Collection Museum has more than 800 various accordions. It was established by Alexander, a Russian who was born in Yining. He also formed a small accordion band, which will perform several melodious accordion pieces for the tourists who come to visit, which is very distinctive.
(Alexander, successor of Bayan)
(Alexander and his little accordion band)
The accordion was invented in Europe at the beginning of the 19th century. It may be hard for you to imagine that its originator is a musical instrument from China—the sheng, not just the accordion. The Chinese sheng that entered Europe at the end of the 18th century also inspired two other western reed instruments. : Harmonica and organ, so the Chinese Sheng is also known as "the ancestor of the world's free reed instruments".
I played the accordion for a few years when I was a child. I played the piano accordion as shown in the picture below. This is an improved accordion in the 1860s. It should be the kind of accordion you see every day. The earlier accordion was a button-type accordion, also known as the bayanqin. It has undergone improvements such as diatonic scale, chromatic scale, and straps. It was only with the appearance of the accordion that this instrument became popular all over the world. I have to say that the unique timbre of the accordion is very tasteful when playing Russian folk songs, don't you believe it? Go and listen to "Katyusha", "Evening on the outskirts of Moscow" and "Birch Forest" played by the accordion.
In addition to Liuxing Street, Kazanqi Folk Custom Tourist Area is another characteristic block in Yining where you can experience folk customs and construction.
"Kazanqi" in Uyghur means "people who cast pots for business". There are Uyghurs, Uzbeks, Tatars, Hui and other residents living here. In the history of more than 200 years, Uyghurs accounted for the main population here. Most of them make a living by handicrafts. They cast pots, fetch buckets, build bag pits, make boxes, make leather shoes, and hand-make saddles that Kazakhs need. Today, some Uighurs here are still engaged in their ancestral business. This ancient, simple, and original ecological way of life is part of Kazanqi, and it is also a quiet place that is rare in cities in the post-industrial era.
(Hundreds of pigeons under Kazanqi's house number are very spectacular)
Many centuries-old buildings, such as ancient mosques, are preserved here. Most of the exterior walls of the buildings are blue, but not the gloomy blue, but bright blue, so even if it rains this day, the neighborhood still makes people feel warm. , and even the wires are messy in some places, which does not hinder the overall delicacy and purity.
Kazanqi street shops sell a wide range of special commodities, such as tapestries, jade carvings, musical instruments, etc., which are very new to outsiders, among which saddle shops are more common.
(beautiful landscape tapestry)
The horses in Yili are also called "Tianma". Since the 1930s, horse-drawn carriages have entered every household as a means of transportation, which facilitates the travel of residents. People of all ethnic groups love horses and become obsessed. An important source of income for residents. Saddlery shops are lined up on the long street, and there are all kinds of saddles, whips, reins, girths and bridles in the shop.
Not far to the east of Kazan is the Hanren Street Bazaar. This is an ancient commercial trade area that emerged in the early 20th century. It is famous for various local groceries, ethnic minority snacks and ethnic handicrafts. It was named because many Han merchants lived here at the beginning of its establishment.
Nowadays, most of the neighborhoods are ethnic minority cuisines run by ethnic minority bosses. As soon as you enter, you can’t help but salivate, such as kebabs, pilaf, naren, pull strips, baked buns, naan meat, grilled kebabs, etc. Whole sheep, roasted sheep's feet, oil tarts, yogurt lumps... I wish I could have two more stomachs, so this place is also known as the "most Ili-flavored" place.
If you are full of milk and food, finally go to the Yili Museum and end your trip to Yining in the history and culture of Yili Prefecture.
Yili Kazakh Autonomous Prefecture spans the north and south wings of the Junggar Basin, is located between the Tianshan Mountains, the Altai Mountains and the western mountains of Junggar, and governs Tacheng and Altay, as well as 11 counties and cities directly under it. Municipalities of autonomous prefectures. Yili is named after the Yili River in the territory. It is endowed with unique water, soil, light and heat resources, rich in mineral resources, superior ecological environment, and unique tourism resources. It is known as "Jiangnan beyond the Great Wall".
(Iron Age cultural relics in Yili area)
Yili is also the origin of skiing in the world. According to archaeological findings, the Altay people started skiing about 10,000 years ago. Altay is known as "the earliest origin of skiing in the world".
There are lush pastures in the Ili River Valley, the southern foot of the Altai Mountains and the upper reaches of the Irtysh River. Historically, the Sai people, the Yuezhi people, the Wusun people, and the Huns have nomadic here successively. They have primitive beliefs of polytheism. Among them, animal worship is more typical. In the grasslands of northern Xinjiang, there are many stone pillars carved with deer patterns, which are called "deer stones". Deer stone worship is a common belief in the ancient Eurasian grasslands.
In 105 BC, Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, in order to unite with Wusun to attack the Xiongnu, took Xijun, the daughter of Jiangdu King Liu Jian, as the princess to Wusun to make a marriage marriage. Sun. Xijun and Jieyou made important contributions to strengthening the relationship between Wusun and the Han Dynasty. So far, the brand or scenic spot of Huocheng Lavender in Yili has been named "Princess Jieyou".
Yili and the entire Western Regions were famous for producing excellent horses in ancient times. Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty used Wusun horses as "Tianma" at first, and then Dawan horses as "Tianma" and Wusun horses as "Xiji horses". . A large number of good horses were imported into the Central Plains, which played a great role in improving the inland horse breeds.
From the museum, I also learned about the origin of the Uyghurs: the Uyghurs were formed through long-term migration and national integration, and the main ancestors of the Uyghurs were the Huihe people in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. Huihe was relatively weak at first, and was enslaved by Turkic people from the Altai Mountains. With the support of the Tang Dynasty, Huihe rebelled against the Eastern Turkic Khanate, and successively assisted the Tang Dynasty in conquering the Western Turkic Khanate and the Later Turkic Khanate. Gong was named Huairen Khan and established the Huihe Khanate. After the Anshi Rebellion broke out, Huihe sent troops twice to help Tang suppress the rebellion, and had a very close relationship with the Tang Dynasty. In 788, the ruler of Huihe wrote to the Tang Dynasty, asking himself to change it to "Uighur", which means "turning around as lightly and swiftly as a falcon".
In the 1930s, the internal contradictions of the Mobei Uyghur Khanate intensified and it was on the verge of decline. In 840, it was defeated by the enemy. Except for some Uyghurs who moved to the interior and merged with the Han people, the rest were divided into three branches: one went to the Turpan Basin and today’s Jimu In the Saar area, the Gaochang Uyghur Kingdom was established; one branch moved to the Hexi Corridor, where they interacted and merged with local ethnic groups, forming today's Yugur people; one branch moved to the west of Pamir, and then distributed in Central Asia and the present-day Kashgar area. Established the Karahan Dynasty.
(Prairie stone man in the Turkic Khanate period)
In the museum, there are also historical introductions about the forced implementation of Islam by the Chagatai regime established by the Mongols and the return of Turghut to the east. The history of religion has been briefly described in the article "Aksu". I will explain it in detail when I read Bayingoleng Mongolian Autonomous Prefecture.
(A Nestorian stele unearthed in Yili area)
Yining is here.
I just passed the Duku Highway not long ago, and the road from Yining to Zhaosu in the south is also called "Little Duku". During the 200-kilometer journey, you will also experience snow-capped mountains and grasslands, and you will also feel the four seasons and eight festivals. What are the specific differences? Same beauty?
Next stop - Yizhao Highway.
