The photos in this article are all taken by the author of "Black and White Touch", all rights reserved, and unauthorized use is strictly prohibited!


Not long ago, when I was walking the Tasha Ancient Road (see Chapter 18), during a break on the way, I encountered a car coming from Urumqi. There were four middle-aged men, three women and one man. One of the eldest sisters smiled at me and asked me what constellation I was...

Before I tell you how I answer, I would like to say a few words about my observations on communicating with strangers during my self-driving trip. I met a lot of strike-ups along the way, some were greetings with friends on the viewing platform, and some were hitchhiking at the starting point of long-distance dangerous roads, such as the Pangong Lake where the Sichuan-Tibet Line and the Xinzang Line are about to enter no-man’s land. This kind of communication is often not equal and sincere, but everywhere reveals the suppression of power or the vigilance of suspicion. For example, experience, the type of car, and even beauty... are all self-righteously used as power chips to generate inexplicable superiority. This sense of superiority will be manifested in the tone of voice and demeanor, and sometimes nakedly reflected in the content of the speech.

I once met a girl with a good figure and appearance on a viewing platform, but her frivolous posture was disgusting. She asked me where I came from, and I responded to her with the principle of not judging people by appearance, and asked her where she came from Where did she come from? She smiled contemptuously and ignored her. When she returned from watching the scene, she asked me where I was going next stop. This time, I ignored her. She was obviously a little overwhelmed and even annoyed, and asked me several times, but I didn't look at her again in the end. Probably because of her skin, she has obtained rides and other conveniences, so she has the illusion that her "skin" is power. (Some people, no, most people, really think of skins as power)

You will meet a lot of people and things like this on the road, and gradually you will understand that sincerity and kindness are just fairy tales, while "power" and interests are the mainstream. The truth in the mouth. Rare doesn't mean it doesn't exist. If you do encounter it, you must cherish it, so that the territory of "truth, goodness and beauty" can expand a little in the turbid world. As a person in reality, what I can do is to cultivate a rose with thorns in my heart, repay my sincerity with flowers, and when I meet someone who is not particular, I can stab him unceremoniously!

"The compasses are turning", the elder sister was sincere and friendly at that moment. I said that I was an Aries, and the elder sister said: "I thought you were a Sagittarius! A person who dares to run the ancient Tasha trail is quite adventurous... ..."

The exchange was simple and sincere, she admired my courage, expressed it in such a friendly way, and although I was a little flustered (who wouldn't), she had no intention of getting anything from me through compliments, but All I gave her was a kind smile. We give "roses" to each other, with a lingering fragrance in our hearts...

Not only the Tasha Ancient Trail, I was alone for the entire self-driving and earlier travel by public transportation. Many people I met on the journey expressed surprise: Isn’t it boring to be alone? Isn't it dangerous to be alone?

Danger has been encountered a few times. Boredom or loneliness is an "ancient memory" from a long time ago. It has been so long that I have forgotten the details of that feeling. It’s probably like adult parents who can’t feel the pain of adolescence. If someone tells me that when he is alone, he is very boring, empty, lonely and cold, I can only understand it from a rationale—people long for company and excitement, but they cannot empathize. .

After being alone for a long time, loneliness will no longer be lonely, and you will enjoy exploring inwardly and outwardly alone, and the excitement of gatherings will become a burden—if it is too frequent. I think this is a good thing. There is always a banquet in the world. Everyone can lose themselves in the carnival, but few people can still be energetic after the carnival. If you can master the mystery of being alone at a relatively young age, How lucky is this for a life that is lonely and lonely for most of the time!

If you can enjoy solitude, you can separate calmly, and you can get together without fear.

So in Yining this day, I "run away" with the little sister (sister) who I met on the Internet because of the piano and chatted intermittently a few times. She traveled to Xinjiang from Shanghai more than a month ago. When she encountered the epidemic, her companion They all went back. Her southern Xinjiang travel plan has not yet been fully implemented, so she lived in Yining for a while. Just when I drove here by myself, I took her (hereinafter referred to as "Xiaojun"), and the two of them continued to pick up down the journey.

We plan to go south to Zhaosu first, then east through Turks, and leave Xinjiang as soon as possible (cause of the epidemic). Unfortunately, something happened when we first arrived in Zhaosu, and we were forced to separate after we had been together for less than a day. Let's talk about what's going on later, let's take a look at the beautiful scenery on the Yizhao Highway.

The Yizhao Highway, that is, the highway from Yining to Zhaosu, to be more precise, also includes a section from the south of the Xiate Ranch in Zhaosu to the Xiate Ancient Road in the Aksu area, with a total length of 180 kilometers.

We have walked through the famous Duku Highway in Xinjiang (see Chapter 20), crossing the north and south of Tianshan Mountains, and it seems to have passed through four seasons in terms of climate and landscape. Although the Yizhao Highway is only one third of the Duku Highway, But it also runs through the north and south of the Tianshan Mountains, passing through the sea of ​​flowers, grasslands and snow-capped mountains.

Like Duku, Yizhao Highway is also a seasonal highway, usually open to traffic from June to October. It was August 15th, and the weather was beautiful. We set off from Yining early in the morning. There was no Yizhao Highway in the navigation. Xiaojun walked by it not long ago, and found the entrance of the highway based on some impressions, so we started on the road up.

I am not a person who can chat with everyone, and I expected some unpleasantness on the road. I did not expect Xiaojun to have a good balance between informality and politeness, and she is a motivated girl who likes to read and study, which is just right for me. It was quite interesting to talk about some mutually inspiring experiences along the way.

Not long before, we came to Baishifeng Jingeng Garden, which is a scenic spot under construction. The walking corridors and landscape sculptures have not yet formed, but it does not hinder the beauty of the scenery - a large sea of ​​red, white, yellow and purple flowers, from The snow-capped mountains stretching all the way in front of you, don't be too spectacular!

Such a sea of ​​flowers has never been seen on the Duku Highway, and it is not the only flower sea on the Yizhao Highway. Xiaojun said that the weather was bad when she came here not long ago, the sun was shining and the flowers were bright that day, she and I were very excited, and at her instigation, I even got on camera several times. She told me that the dog in the picture below is called Bian Shepherd and is the smartest dog.

Go on for an hour and come to the dangerous mountain road with many bends and steep slopes, leading to Baishi Peak, one of the peaks of Wusun Mountain, at an altitude of 3475 meters. On the top of the head, looking around is vast and white, and instantly passes from the bright spring to the depressed winter.

I didn't realize that this slender and delicate girl was a horse lover. When she saw a horse or a sheep, she always wanted to get close to petting it. Whenever the horse moved, she was scared away like a rabbit.

Later on the road, she shared her horse riding experience with me, saying that she wanted to experience the "Tianma" at Zhaosu Racecourse. Seeing her enthusiasm, I also came up with the idea of ​​riding a horse. But I "regretted" that night, that's something for later.

Passing down the mountain, the emerald green color reappears. From the high mountain wilderness at an altitude of more than 3,000 meters to the low mountains and hills a little over 1,000 meters, the scenery is bright again.

On the roadside of Zhaosu County, there is another sea of ​​flowers - Zhaosu Sea of ​​Flowers, which is more colorful and endless than the sea of ​​flowers in Jingeng Garden.

There are golden rapeseed flowers and sunflowers, colorful tulips, and a sea of ​​perilla flowers comparable to lavender. Thousands of acres of flowers of various colors line up to read, making people ecstatic. Although it was a bit late in mid-August, the spectacular formation was still intoxicating.

The picture below is the perilla flower, which is a medicinal plant. We thought it was lavender at first, but we didn't smell the fragrance when we got closer, and the flowering period of lavender is not this season. However, the sea of ​​perilla flowers is also very ornamental, which makes up for the regret of missing lavender to a certain extent.

Arriving in Zhaosu County at noon, Xiao Jun also has a lot of experience in Xinjiang cuisine. She treated me to meatball soup, and later treated me to a big plate of chicken, and then paid for the horse riding fee for me. It was tacitly understood, as a reward for a ride all the way—this girl had no intention of taking advantage at all, but she was a bit of a boy's hearty.

In the afternoon, when I came to the horse farm in the suburbs of Zhaosu County, Xiaojun was already a beginner rider. She had taken some riding lessons before coming to Xinjiang. When she arrived in the prairie, she naturally wanted to let go of her hands and feet and gallop wildly. The racecourse coach is from Sichuan. His 10-year-old son has been trained as a horse riding master. He enthusiastically introduced the character of each horse to us. The coach was steady and patient, and I followed suit for a few laps.

I thought riding a horse was easy, that anyone could ride if they had the guts to get on a horse. Only after riding with the coach in a down-to-earth way can I know that apart from courage, this is also a mentality and technical work. As a rider, you must have a firm will to conquer. "Bullying the weak and fearing the strong" is the instinct of any animal. Every time you give a command to the horse, whether it is "turn the direction" or "come on", you must have a certain strength. Novices often love or fear the horse. Don't dare to use force. Another one, the body rises and falls with the horse, and it is also very important to master the rhythm and the tightness of the legs, otherwise the buttocks will suffer-it will hurt from being rubbed! This is the skill of riding a horse. It cannot be mastered without a period of training. I rode for the first time, and I was wearing jeans. After getting off the horse, I felt like my buttocks and thighs were hit by a board. Not to mention the pain, it was still wet of. I saw it at the hotel at night, and the blood was all out!

Xiaojun is much lighter, and she can already gallop on a big horse.

(The little mole encountered on the horse farm)

As the evening approached, we had disagreements over where to stay. The reason was that an epidemic had occurred at the Alashankou port in Boertala Mongolian Autonomous Prefecture a few hours ago, and the prevention and control of the whole of Xinjiang was suddenly tightened. The Sailimu Lake I passed by two days ago is located in Bortala, and there was an asterisk in the itinerary code. Xiaojun thought that the risk of being quarantined when he returned to the county was very high, but I thought that as long as the code was still green and Sailimu Lake was away from Alashankou is relatively far away, so there should be no problem.

Finally we returned to the county seat, and when we passed by the hospital, we saw a long queue of citizens doing nucleic acid tests. I found a hotel and explained the situation. Sure enough, as Xiaojun said, he was asked to be quarantined by the prevention and control department. Xiaojun has been staying in Yining for the past 14 days, and there is no need for isolation. After sending her to the youth hostel, I started a 21-day isolation life.

Many people are afraid of being quarantined, and business, work, studies, etc. will be delayed. I have a kind of peace of mind. It may be that I have experienced all the hardships that I should have experienced in the past few months, so I am not so anxious. , Reading books, watching dramas, and writing things every day passes quickly.

This isolation, the time has come from the midsummer to the beginning of autumn. On the bright side, there are more beautiful scenery in autumn. If there is no such delay, the late autumn scenery such as Ejina Populus euphratica forest and the hinterland of the Qinling Mountains will pass me by. The Jiuqu sunset in Bayinbulak is also the most beautiful in autumn.

For the past 21 days, Xiaojun has also stayed in Zhaosu. Under the epidemic situation, it is inconvenient to take public transportation. She lives on a horse farm, rides horses every day, tastes different Xinjiang delicacies, and her equestrian skills are excellent, which can be regarded as the benefits brought by the epidemic to her who loves to eat and love horses. The money is much more.

On September 4th, I saw the sky again (before I could only see it through the window).

Although three weeks is not a long time, but once again embarking on the journey, despite the wind and sunshine, it is like being reborn.

After picking up Xiaojun, the first stop was to visit the Lighthouse Educated Youth Hall in Zhaosu.

The Lighthouse Educated Youth Hall is a niche attraction. It is located on the way from the racecourse to Turks, so I stopped by to take a look. Zhaosu used to be a gathering point for educated youths who went to Xinjiang to go to the mountains and countryside in the 1960s and 1970s. The landscape here reproduces the glorious years when the educated youths fought against the sky and shed their blood. It is a textbook for recalling bitterness and sweetness. It is a vivid testimony left by the special era.

Continue eastward for 60 kilometers and arrive at Tekes Bagua City.

Tekes County in Yili Prefecture is called "Bagua City" because of its layout according to Bagua. The urban area is radially circular, the streets are like a maze, and the streets are connected, and there are no traffic lights. Turks was awarded the title of "the world's largest gossip city" by Guinness.

(Aerial photography of the night scene of Bagua City, the picture comes from the Internet)

It is said that Qiu Chuji designed the gossip-shaped system of Tekes City, so the city has a profound I Ching and Taoist culture.

(Gossip elements that can be seen everywhere on the corner of Turks Street)

Bagua City is located in the Tezhao Basin at the northern foot of the Tianshan Mountains, surrounded by mountains and rivers, surrounded by mountains and waters. The "shape, spirit, rhyme, and position" of the surrounding mountains and water potentials are excellent sites for ancient geomantic omen theory city pools . The Bagua City was built completely according to the "Book of Changes", taking the sixty-four hexagrams "Tai Gua" meaning harmony between heaven, earth and man, and the streets are laid out according to the eight trigrams directions "Qian, Kun, Xun, Zhen, Kan, Li, Gen, Dui". The first ring road is eight streets, the second ring road is sixteen streets, the third ring road is thirty-two streets, and the fourth ring road is sixty-four streets. Each ring is 360 meters apart. The rings are interlocking and the roads are connected. , shaped like a spider web, the scene is peculiar.

(Bagua City Center)

As mentioned above, Yining Six Star Street is designed based on the concept of "Garden City" by the famous British planner Howard, and Turks Bagua City is also the practice of this concept.

Turks is also the first city in the history of our country to live with the princess Xijun, and it is also the city where the first female diplomat in the history of our country - Feng Yu was born. The previous article mentioned that Princess Xijun and Jieyou The princess married Wusun Kingdom because of her relatives, and Wusun Kingdom is located in today's Tekes County. Therefore, the grassland culture, Wusun culture and Manas culture are all blended, inherited and developed here. The famous Kalajun grassland and Wusun ancient road are the golden signs for Turks to attract foreign tourists, but the epidemic situation is urgent. These two places We didn't go, but chose to go and see Joan Kush Terrace, which was recommended by many people along the way.

Some people on the Internet said that you can see the panorama of Bagua layout on the Talbahatai Mountain on the outskirts of Turks City. In fact, it was a rumor. We drove all the way to the top of the mountain, and it was too far away from the city to see anything.

By accident, I saw a grassland scenery similar to Kala Jun.

(Similar to the scenery of Kalajun Human Grassland)

This is a grassland near a village named "Kizbeti". "Kizbeti" is a Kazakh language, meaning a girl's grave. There is really a girl's grave on the grassland. According to reports, it is a girl named Shao Qikai. The grave of the Kazakh girl in Keremu. She was born in 1926, lost her father when she was young, and was brought up by her mother. She is talented, can speak and sing, and has created many commendable poems. She fell in love with Haziyi, a young man in the village, but their love was opposed because of Haziyi's poor family. In desperation, the two young men decided to escape, but Shao Qikai's brother led his men to chase them back. Haziyi was thrown into prison, and Shao Qikai was locked at home. Later, Shao Qikai wrote a song in the name of his lover, which has been passed down for a long time. After Shao Qikai was forced to leave her lover, she was accused and tortured by her relatives, and she committed suicide by taking poison in despair. She was only 18 years old at that time.

Her love story touched the local villagers, and people called her tomb the girl's tomb. In 1980, her story was adapted into the movie "Girl's Tomb" and released, which received enthusiastic response. The song "Haziyi" also became a well-known love song.

It was late at night when we returned to Tekes from Kizbeti. Both Xiaojun and I were conscious of saving money. Living in a youth hostel was too noisy, so we decided to stay in a hotel, which is quiet and affordable. She is really a hearty and unconstrained woman. .....

From Inner Mongolia to Xinjiang, I have seen countless grasslands along the way, but I am still full of expectations for the next trip to Qiongkushitai, because many people have praised it since entering Xinjiang.

How beautiful is Joan Kush Terrace? Let's see you next time!