holy place in my heart
This haunted holy land is the top of a thousand mountains and the source of thousands of waters. Tibet has already penetrated into my bone marrow and blood. Lhasa is the city where Tibet gave me life and stories. I stayed on the plateau for more than half a month, and this time I didn't go anywhere, only in Lhasa.
People often ask me why I like this land. The "third pole" snow-covered plateau has always been extremely attractive, she is rough but also delicate, she is simple but romantic, and the unique Tibetan culture makes Tibet have a unique temperament, which is unmatched anywhere.
On the snow-covered plateau, I always have a feeling of "back home". People who have never been to Tibet will always fantasize about the beauty and purity of this place, and they will also yearn that maybe one day they will be able to cleanse their souls when they arrive in Tibet.
If you have the opportunity to live in Lhasa, I believe that in the years to come, no matter where you are, Lhasa will follow you. Even if it is a short period of three to five months, it is an unforgettable memory.
When I come to Lhasa again this time, the Jokhang Temple has not yet opened, and some fire maintenance is being done. There are no long-headed believers in front of the door, and the sangsang platform has not yet been opened. Even if there is less sense of ritual, people still turn around on Barkhor Street day after day.
Lhasa is changing and changing with each passing day. The whole city is gradually becoming more beautiful and modern. After absorbing new things, the ancient things are still there. The inheritance of Tibetan compatriots for thousands of years will be unique in today's society. Naturally There is a reason.
The rainy season in Lhasa came earlier this year, and the sky on the plateau is like a child's face, which always changes every minute. It was still sunny in the morning, with the unique blue sky and white clouds in Tibet. When I wanted to bask in the sun, I took off my hat and faced the sun. I felt that life was full of hope. But in the evening or at night, the sky is cloudy and it rains, but the rain in Tibet is always not long, and it ends in a while, and you can often encounter rainbows.
On the streets of Lhasa, I am always reluctant to bring my camera, I just want to go out for a walk comfortably empty-handed, just turn around and drink tea. I never feel regretful, this city has long been deeply engraved in my mind, and I really will never forget it in my life.
Coincidentally, when I came back to Lhasa this time, I played some surrounding areas of Lhasa that I had never played before. Of course, the three holy lakes, Yamdrok and Namtso, are naturally the highlight because they are close to Lhasa.
So, what should Lhasa do?
Day1 Lhasa - Namtso - Nagqu
Day2 Nagqu - Lhasa - Barkhor Street - Potala Palace Square - Punco
Day3 Lhasa - Junba Fishing Village - Yamdrok Yongcuo - Lhasa
Day4 Lhasa - Linzhou Rapeseed Flowers - Xia Temple - Silin Temple - Pangduo Township
Day5 Pangduo Township-Rezhen Temple-Zangxiong Village-Dangxiong
Day6 Dangxiong - Chubu Monastery - Cijiao Forest - Princess Wencheng - Songtsan
Day7 Lhasa - Zaki Temple
After the star chasing trip in Qinghai, I flew to Lhasa and stayed in Lhasa for a week. Every day I either drank tea with this friend or ate with that friend. The days always passed too quickly.
At that time, it felt as if it was time to say goodbye again, but I was a little bit reluctant. Brother Zhu drove me to Namtso in his car. After a day in the snow-white world, I still missed the days in Lhasa, so I gave up and went back to Chengdu, and took a train back to Lhasa. Coincidentally, Liu came to Lhasa by bicycle from Xiamen all the way to Yunnan-Tibet line, so he had a trip to Lhasa for the next few days.
In this way, I made up my half-month Lhasa days.
Having been in Lhasa for so long, apart from knowing Sera Monastery and Drepung Monastery around the urban area, and a little further away is Zayeba Monastery and Ganden Monastery, I did not expect that there are so many lovely temples near Linzhou, which makes people feel Went in a good mood.
Of course, there is no need to introduce how beautiful the two holy lakes are. They are especially recommended here: Xia Temple, Silin Temple and Rezhen Temple.
Although I have entered Tibet for the eleventh time, it is the first time I have walked on the Lhasa North Ring Road. In addition to the three major temples in Lhasa, there are many low-key and beautiful temples on this road, which is very suitable for a good walk.
Day1 White Namtso
I posted a photo of Namtso in Moments and saw a comment.
"You are in the fairyland every day, are you a fairy?"
"Um, yes, I am"
This is my fourth trip to Namtso, but I still haven't gone to Tianmen, the holy elephant. It may be that I know that I will definitely go one day, so I don't feel a pity. Namtso was originally the largest lake in Tibet, but Seling Co accidentally overtook it, and Namtso became the second largest lake in Tibet.
Six years ago, my first sight of Namtso was already extremely beautiful. What attracted me more this time was the scenery on the road, which was really a fairyland. On the plateau in May, you can still encounter a snow-white world. Except for the cars walking on the road, everything is covered in white as far as you can see.
Every section of road in Tibet has its unique style, Nyingchi is delicate, Ngari is watery, and Nagqu is rough. From Lhasa to Dangxiong, this section of road is the famous Qinghai-Tibet Line 109 National Highway. The entire asphalt road is in very good condition.
This year's rainy season came earlier, and it often rained at night in Lhasa in May. The altitude of Namtso is 4,700 meters, which is a full kilometer higher than Lhasa. When it rains in Lhasa, it usually snows in Namtso. When we approach Namtso, the surrounding rolling plateau hills become more and more white.
As the sun rises, the temperature in the air gradually rises, and fog begins to slowly rise in the snow-white world. The time-lapse clouds and mist visible to the naked eye are right in front of you, and there are no adjectives in your mouth except "wow, so beautiful". .
The ticket for Namtso is 120 yuan. If you go to the Holy Elephant Tianmen, you will need to add 80 yuan. We didn't plan to go around a big circle, but just went to the Tashi Peninsula. The sacred Namtso has been on the snow-covered plateau for so many years, and is closely related to Nyainqentanglha Mountain.
It is said that a person will go to two places in his life, one is the sea and the other is Tibet. I always feel that Namtso is a combination of these two kinds of beautiful scenery. It is vast and accompanied by snow-capped mountains. I think there is no scenery comparable to it.
I used a drone to fly over the large and small lakes in Ngari, but unfortunately I still didn’t go to the sacred elephant Tianmen. The vision of releasing a drone in the Tashi Peninsula is only mediocre.
In fact, it is quite recommended to come when Namtso leaves the lake in April and May. When there is no heavy snow to cover the mountains, it will be so beautiful that you doubt life when you come to the half-frozen Namtso.
In Tibetan Buddhism, there is a saying that the year of the horse turns to the lake in the year of the goat. Every year in the year of the sheep, many believers will come to Namtso Lake to worship, because in this specific year, a circle of worship It can be equivalent to twelve times the usual amount.
Namtso has a circle of 280 kilometers. It takes about half a month to measure it with footsteps. Of course, there are also off-road vehicles around the lake. This is quite a test of driving skills. The most shocking place in Namtso is the holy elephant Tianmen.
In Tibet, it is almost impossible to move without a car. The most recommended way to go to Namtso: If you have good driving skills, you can rent a car and drive yourself, or if you have average driving skills, you can charter a car to go there. There is really no choice, and then choose Lhasa newspaper group. Such a beautiful place is limited to only 1 hour to see, and it takes 10 hours to go back and forth from Lhasa, which is too painful.
The accommodation conditions in Namtso are average, because the high altitude is thin and the air is very easy to be high-reverse, but for the beautiful starry sky and sunrise and sunset of Namtso, it is still worth feeling the high-reverse.
Day2 Barkhor Street, Potala Palace, Phuntsok
Waiting in Xining to fly to Lhasa, I really want to go home. It has been more than a month since I went out, and I miss the food of Quanzhou very much. It's probably noodle paste, wontons, and cheap fish, shrimp and crab bought in the vegetable market, and my favorite small miscellaneous fish that have just landed, so I want to fly back directly. But I also feel that Xining is only more than a thousand kilometers away from Lhasa. How can I not go so close to my beloved Lhasa.
This is probably the heart that contributed to my eleventh visit to Lhasa.
At that time, I didn’t know that Yang Shuhan was already in Lhasa. We met in Nyingchi a few years ago. We played together in Lhasa for a while, drinking tea and eating together when we had nothing to do. I didn't even know he was in Lhasa, otherwise I must have been looking forward to this journey the moment I got on the plane. Fortunately, I saw the message as soon as I got off the plane and opened WeChat.
For so many years, I have loved this land so much. Apart from its indescribably beautiful plateau, it is probably more about the people I met and the things I have experienced on this plateau, which makes people want to come back again and again.
Take the airport bus, the terminal is now changed to Norbulingka instead of the Civil Aviation Administration. I made a reservation at the Phuntsok Kangsang View Hotel, took a taxi there, and called Yang Shuhan directly to ask where it was. We made an appointment to have dinner at Namased. I really miss their pouches for a long time.
The daily life in Lhasa is nothing more than walking around Barkhor Street, drinking tea in various sweet teahouses, and occasionally walking around the Potala Palace Square. At that time, the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple were not yet open due to the epidemic. . It is now open for visits in different time slots. In Lhasa, it seems that apart from wearing a mask when going through the security check, the epidemic has not had much impact on it.
Go, go to Barkhor Street
Every security checkpoint on Barkhor Street needs to swipe your ID card and face to enter, and drones are not allowed to fly here except for special permission. Taking advantage of the epidemic this year, because there was a fire in the Jokhang Temple in the past two years, fire rectification was carried out quickly, so the Jokhang Temple Square looks like a construction site this year.
Also affected by the epidemic, I can no longer kowtow and simmer mulberry at will, and I always feel that there are still some shortcomings. But generally speaking, it is already very good. At least in this holy land, there is no trace of the epidemic spreading, which is very fortunate.
There will be different changes in Lhasa every year. The most obvious thing is that this year the entire Barkhor Street has directly become a street for travel photography, which is terrible. During the Mid-Autumn Festival and National Day last year, when I was shooting travel photos at Fengma Video, I was still one of the few people. This year, it was a swarm of bees. It was a bit scary. The Barkhor Street in my heart should not be like this.
This is a famous street with a thousand years of history and culture. It is the most vivid soul in Lhasa. How can it be reduced to a street for travel photography! In the past, in Lhasa, no matter it was day or night, as long as you came to the Jokhang Temple Square, you could see pilgrims walking around the Jokhang Temple and prostrating round and round, or facing the Jokhang Temple directly. Thousands of long-headed pilgrims a day That's it.
Kowtow is a way of worshiping Buddha, which is very sincere. Tibetans who are thousands of kilometers away from Lhasa may have a long-distance pilgrimage in their lifetime, that is, to kowtow to the holy city of Lhasa all the way to the gate of Jokhang Temple. This journey lasted for several months, but they were always able to move forward for the belief in their hearts.
I will love Tibet so much, except that the beautiful scenery is incomparable elsewhere, and more importantly, their beliefs. In Quanzhou, we have a lot of beliefs, a small temple in three steps and a large temple in five steps, in the entire old city. But we seem to believe more in this world, and many of our prayers are about getting promoted and getting rich in this life, for this life. As for the Tibetan people's beliefs, their Six Realms of Reincarnation can see life and death more clearly, as if the practice in this life is to live for the next life.
We turned clockwise along the street, sometimes once, sometimes three times, walking by a Tibetan grandmother holding a prayer wheel, and sitting on a chair in the distance was Bo La, who was tired of turning the prayer wheel. Barkhor Street has been a street carrying faith for thousands of years, but it is also a street full of merchants. It is very special, it is old but energetic, I hope there will be fewer travel shots, and it will be more perfect if it does not occupy the entire street.
where to drink tea
The old Lhasa knows that every sunny afternoon, there will always be one or two teahouses to spend the afternoon. The buildings in the entire ancient city of Lhasa will not be higher than the Potala Palace. If you can find a teahouse that can see both the golden dome of the Jokhang Temple and the Potala Palace, it will be perfect.
My favorite is the upstairs of the Nissan Chenbo shopping mall. The entrance is not easy to find. It is very close to the golden dome of the Jokhang Temple, and the magnificent Potala Palace is just in front of you. When I get tired of drinking sweet tea, sometimes I order a pot of clear tea, which is made of brick tea and salt, which is salty.
Magpie Pavilion has always been the object of choice. Going inside the Magpie Pavilion is the Paradise Time Bookstore, and it is also a place to kill time. The third floor of the Magpie Pavilion is covered with colorful prayer flags. When the weather is fine, they flutter with the wind, reflecting the blue sky and white clouds, making people feel refreshed.
Finally, I would like to recommend the roof of the Jasa Hotel. It may be more expensive than the previous two, but the environment is relatively much better, but it feels farther away when you look at the Cloth Palace.
This is a room with the Potala Palace
Almost every time I come to Lhasa, I will come to Puncuokangsang View Hotel to stay for a few nights, always hoping to have the Potala Palace closer for a while.
I probably started living in the old and new stores of Phuntsok Kangsang Youth Hostel. Later, Phuntsok Kangsang was refurbished, and even the old fish restaurant upstairs became my own music and fashion restaurant. When it was dark, singers began to sing in residence. I also went from the service of delivering breakfast to the room to the process of enjoying breakfast in the viewing restaurant.
The location of Pingcuo Kangsang must be unique. You can directly watch the golden mountain of the Potala Palace in the room and watch the day and night of the Potala Palace. Except for Pingcuo, there are not many hotels that can do it. This is of course the biggest selling point.
The room has everything you need, such as an oxygen supply machine, humidifier, and floor heating, which are the most needed things on the plateau. The bedding is impeccable, probably purchased according to the five-star standard, and the bathroom is separated from wet and dry, which is my favorite and most convenient design.
It’s really not just pushing and pushing. In Pingcuo, it takes about 10 minutes to walk to the Jokhang Temple and the Potala Palace. The central location is really good. There is a large shopping mall at the door. It can be said that it is very convenient for food, accommodation and transportation The airport bus terminal, Civil Aviation Administration of China, is only one street away from it.
There should be poetry and distant places in life. If there is a home in that distant place that makes you feel at ease, that is enough. Pingcuo for me, in Lhasa is such an existence.
Potala Palace
During the epidemic, the Potala Palace was broadcast live on Taobao, and it was the first time in thousands of years that it was shown to the world through the Internet. I still remember when I came to Lhasa for the first time, the first time I saw the Potala Palace, the thought of tears in my heart was "I really didn't expect to be able to stand in front of you in this life".
The Potala Palace is the highest in the world and the largest and most complete ancient palace complex in Tibet. The main buildings are the White House and the Red Palace, which symbolize different meanings. I believe that everyone has seen the Potala Palace on 50 yuan, and that is probably a place that every friend who comes to Lhasa, Tibet, will check in-Yaowang Mountain.
The Potala Palace will be repainted every year during the fall and winter. If you happen to be in Lhasa at that time, you can try the painted paint, and you won’t die anyway. In addition to white ash, honey, yak milk, and sugar are added to them, which can be described as "a super sweet palace".
In addition to its own architecture, the Potala Palace has several places that are suitable for viewing it.
1. Potala Palace Square
The Potala Palace Square is the highest city square in the world. Recently in Lhasa, due to the epidemic and renovation, I don’t know where to go at 8 o’clock in the evening. Probably only the Potala Palace Square is open. In the past, there will be a musical fountain every year, and the reflection of the Potala Palace can be photographed here.
2. Zongjiao Lukang Park
Zongjiao Lukang Park is located behind the Potala Palace, where there is a pool called Dragon King Pool, where you can take pictures of the reflection of the Potala Palace. In the park, you can also see the magnificent Potala Palace from the side. I still remember working in Tibet Publishing House one year, facing the Potala Palace, and having dinner every afternoon. It was the season of plum blossoms at that time, and I often smelled the fragrance of plum blossoms in the park.
3. Lalu Wetland
The Lalu Wetland is the lung of Lhasa. After being closed for a long time, it finally opened again this year. The Lalu Wetland is my initial impression of Lhasa. The forest road is neither long nor short. On one side is the mortal Lhasa, and on the other side is the paradise Lalu Wetland. It is a must to see the Potala Palace in the Lalu Wetland. The documentary "The Third Pole" has many scenes shot in the Lalu Wetland.
4. Nanshan Park
Well, ashamed, I have been to Lhasa for so long and haven’t been there yet.
Day3 Junba Fishing Village, Yamdrok Yongcuo
Junba Fishing Village
Junba Fishing Village was not our destination because it was too late to start in Lhasa. I originally planned to go back and forth to Rezhen Temple for a day, but later I realized that I was really naive. So I temporarily changed the location, and the deepest impression is the scene of Junba fishing village filmed in "The Third Pole".
We opened the Gaode map and searched for Junba, but we found out that it was wrong when we arrived. You must search for "Junba" on the Gaode map. It’s actually okay to go around dozens of kilometers, but in Tibet, it is true that mistakes are often made due to transliteration problems, and the gasoline still needs to make the car full.
Junba Fishing Village is the only natural village in Tibet that makes a living by fishing. The most famous thing in the village is the cowhide raft dance. Every year in March of the Tibetan calendar, a fishing festival is held. I have always felt that it is fate if I meet it, and it doesn’t matter if I don’t meet it. I come to Tibet so often, I will always see it, and Junba Fishing Village is very close to Lhasa. It can be said that it is a matter of minutes.
Junba Fishing Village is at the end of the Lhasa River, where it meets the Yarlung Zangbo River. It is just an inconspicuous turn that can take you into this magical village. It is surrounded by mountains on three sides, and only one side is surrounded by water. There are many people and few lands, and it must survive. Just like the coastal area, people in Junba village can only rely on the river in front of them for food.
The most popular thing in Junba Village should be the temple on the top of the mountain. While worshiping, you can also see the face of the whole village. It is a pity that you did not meet the cowhide boat dance in Junba Fishing Village, but I have regrets. Next time, you can still go again.
Yamdrok Co
People who have never been to Tibet may think that Tibet is a place that lacks water. For example, they think that Tibetans only take three baths in their lives. In fact, there are countless lakes here. The line is one mistake after another.
One by one lakes are scattered on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, and one by one rivers are the sources of several famous rivers in the world. Yamdrok is one of the three holy lakes in Tibet. It can be said to be a very popular scenic spot, but in the process of going around Yanghu Lake, you can often encounter the appearance of Yanghu Lake that you have never seen before.
I can't count the number of times I've been to Yanghu Lake, probably more than a dozen times. As Yeshi said, every friend who comes to Lhasa will take them to Yanghu Lake once. Every time I travel to Lhasa, sometimes I go to Yanghu Lake more than once.
The entire shape of Yanghu Lake is like a coral branch, or it would be more appropriate to describe it as a scorpion. It is precisely because its shoreline stretches out and twists and turns that it also brings many different pictures to it. , No matter which angle you are at, you can't see the whole picture of Yanghu Lake clearly. Yanghu Lake means "coral lake above" in Tibetan, and its altitude is about 4,500 meters. As long as you don't run or jump, you won't be too high.
After we came out of Junba Fishing Village, it was still early, that is, one or two o'clock in the afternoon, and it was too early to return to Lhasa. It's better to go to Yanghu Lake nearby, which can be regarded as idle. What I saw this time was still the blue ribbon, the angle that would definitely pop up if you searched for Yamdrok Cuo on the Internet.
The most beautiful part of Yanghu Lake is the Rituo Temple. Normally, we can see that blue ribbon can be photographed by crossing the Yuegang Bala mountain pass. Before reaching the pass, we can meet the Tibetan mastiff that stays there all the year round, so we can take a photo together.
In fact, there are two other roads to Yanghu Lake. One is the Jiaruola Pass, which can form a loop with the Gangbala Pass. Once you go up and down, you can return to Lhasa in a day. Another super beautiful place is Yanghu Lake in Zhila Mountain Pass. You can directly select "Zhangda Township" in the navigation, but it is specially reminded that you need a border defense certificate when you arrive in Dalong Town and Langkazi County. If you want to go around Yanghu Lake, remember to bring the border defense certificate.
some small tips
The route around Yanghu Lake is very long. It is recommended to spend at least two days, fearing that aesthetic fatigue will begin at the end of the first day, although each frame of the picture is very similar to a painting.
Suggested route:
Day1 Lhasa - Dongla Township - Rituo Temple - Zhangda Township - Gongbu Xuexiang (Heart-shaped Lake) - Dalong Town - Langkazi
Day2 Langkazi - Shencuo - Kongmucuo - Gangbala Pass - Lhasa
There is almost no place to eat lunch on this route, so you can only bring your own dry food. The border defense certificate must be obtained before you can go around Yanghu Lake. If you have time, you can go to Pumoyong wrong before you get to Dalong Town from Gongbu Xuexiang, but if you play late on the first day, it is recommended to live directly in Langkazi County.
Day4 Lin Zhou Rapeseed Flowers and Xia Temple, Silin Temple
Lin Zhou Rapeseed Flowers
In this season, if you want to see rapeseed flowers, you can only come on the plateau. The rapeseed flowers in Qinghai Lake should also bloom, and the rapeseed flowers in Menyuan are also at this point. The plateau in summer is the most comfortable season.
Starting from Lhasa, our destination on the first day was Rezhen Temple. Although we have been to Lhasa countless times, we have never walked through Linzhou County and Nimu County, these two more interesting counties. Because the directions of the two are different, Liu Wei and I chose Linzhou County to play around.
Because the two of us have no return date to be honest, we can go anywhere, so the route is very casual. On the way, I suddenly encountered a field of rapeseed flowers, and stopped for a long time. The rapeseed flowers on the plateau really give this piece of golden yellow the most beautiful background, the rare trees and houses, the mountains stretching in the distance and the blue sky and white clouds. Walking in this field of rapeseed flowers, the first feeling is that you are reluctant to leave.
Sometimes I will go after her flowering period especially for a certain flower. Although most of them will not be disappointed, there are also some that I will not meet, such as Xinghuagou in Xinjiang. This time, I didn't think about it at all. Harvesting a field of rapeseed flowers directly, I was really happy.
Xia Temple (Nun Temple)
Linzhou means "naturally formed place" in Tibetan, and here is the "Lhasa granary", which is very suitable for grain production. Before I came, I didn't know what Lin Zhou had, except Rezhen Temple. We really just wanted to go to Rezhen Temple at first, but we got Xia Temple and Silin Temple by accident, which is really worth a visit.
Xia Temple is 90 kilometers away from Lhasa. It is a nun temple with 108 pagodas and a temple of hundreds of pagodas. Xia Temple is very small, not many people know about it, and not much information can be found. I came to this beautiful place only because the whale mentioned it to me casually.
Shuttle in the Baita Forest of Xia Temple, you will meet many local people who turn around, and some of them are still kowtowing here.
There are many legends about Xia Temple, but this version is my favorite. Three girls came to worship at Xia Temple. On that night of thunder and lightning, they had no place to rest, so they used a spell to turn the temple into a nun's temple. And there are three pagodas to commemorate the three girls, but the current scale is already 108 pagodas.
The weather was not very good at first, it was overcast, but the blue sky in the distance was still there. Just as we were turning around, the sun broke through the clouds bit by bit, and what finally appeared before our eyes was the blue sky, white clouds and snow-capped mountains, the bright and pure white and clean Buddhist pagoda.
Too few people came to Xia Temple, I stayed for a whole afternoon, except for me and Liu Wei, all locals were worshiping and praying, and there was no extra tourist. The afternoon sun shines lazily on my body, I really want to stay here for a long time.
In this impetuous era, a quiet and sunny temple with few people is probably the most pleasant place.
Silin Monastery I met by accident
After visiting the Xia Temple, we used the navigation to search for "Pangduo Township", all of which were bad roads, walking unsteadily on the mountain paths. In fact, we didn't know where the Silin Temple was, and we couldn't navigate it.
There was a Tibetan uncle on the road for a ride, and there were only two of us in the car, so naturally we took a ride when we could. In fact, I have no idea, and I don't even know if there is a place to live on the road ahead. The road is beautiful, but it doesn't look very backward. Sure enough, the place where the uncle wanted to go was after crossing the pass. He couldn't speak Chinese, he only knew how to say stop.
After the uncle got out of the car, it happened to be a teahouse. In fact, I could only understand the Tibetan word for "tea", so I asked casually if there was any food. I really didn't expect that the village, which is only 100km away from Lhasa, has no water and electricity, and the communication with them is only a little Chinese that can be communicated, "There are noodles", "There are Tibetan noodles", that's all.
Finally, I was full in the evening today, and I just ate a road meal at noon. After reluctantly communicating in the teahouse, I knew that there was a hotel in Pangduo Township not far ahead, so I continued to drive forward with confidence.
It was just a turn, and the field of vision in front of me instantly widened, and I saw the cliff temple on the mountain in the distance - Silin Temple. God, this is too beautiful! After seeing the Zayeba Monastery around Lhasa, I already felt that the Tibetan people are too wise. When I saw the Silin Monastery, I was speechless.
The first time I saw the photo of Silin Temple was on the China National Geographic magazine. I took it at that time and planted grass in my heart. It was very shocking to see the Silin Monastery on the cliff with my own eyes. This is the sacred practice site of the Dalong Kagyu Sect. When I posted it on Moments, Yeshi said it looked like the Tiger Cave Monastery.
Liu Wei continued to climb up the mountain, and I saw that it was going to be dark, so I flew the drone to record the beautiful scenery at the moment. When he climbed up the temple and listened to the chanting on the mountain, I drank wine at the Tibetan family's house at the foot of the mountain.
I like to come to Tibetan areas, the most people can let go of their guard, and it feels like making a friend every minute. They built temples at the foot of the mountain, and now some temples on the top of the mountain are being rebuilt. They brought out Lhasa beer and raw yak jerky for me to eat, or beef jerky cut with Tibetan knives, super cool. After Liu Wei finished the class, we said goodbye and came to the guest house in Pangduo Township. The conditions are of course very ordinary, and there are public toilets, but it is very good to have a toilet.
It's snowing on the mountain
When staying in the country, it rained outside, which meant that there was snow on the mountain.
When you wake up in the morning,
Liu Wei: "Do you want to climb a temple?"
Xiaojun: "Let's talk when you're full, not now, I'm hungry."
A fickle woman, after eating noodles, the sky is full of clouds and mist, why don't you take a look? Wow! Wonderland, hurry up and drive to Silin Temple. Even though it was a little late, about ninety o'clock in the morning, when the sun rose, the thin snow began to melt slowly, but fortunately I didn't miss it.
The Hutou Mountain Reservoir at the bottom of the mountain and the Silin Temple on the mountain form a beautiful scene. It is said that the mountain behind the Silin Temple is majestic, like a mighty lion, and the surrounding bushes are as dense as the sea. It is a good place for meditation. In the local area, Silin Temple will also be written as "Shilin Temple", which means Lion Forest.
As I climbed up, I kept meeting local people who moved bricks up the mountain one by one. I think the earliest Silin Temple was built in the same way. Climbing up step by step, I still feel breathless when I come up empty-handed, but they are still carrying weights, concrete and bricks, which are actually carried on their backs.
The mountains in the distance turned white overnight. Climbing to the top of the temple, I met Tibetan friends who had been drinking and eating meat together last night, and a lama who spoke Chinese well. He told me that the state allocated some money for them to rebuild the temple, and the winding dirt road from Lhasa is also under construction. When the road is ready, we can also develop tourism.
In fact, I am still very selfish. I hope that the road has been being repaired, and no one knows where it is, so it will be so quiet and no one will disturb it.
Day5 Rezhen Temple
In the afternoon in Lhasa, we drank tea and basked in the sun in Cijiaolin. Ah Guang can be regarded as a person who has traveled all over Tibet. I didn’t plan to go to many places when I came to Tibet this time. I casually asked what fun things are around Lhasa. He directly replied, "Go to Rezhen Temple. The most special thing about it is not the temple, but the tens of thousands of older cypress trees around the temple."
You know, it is difficult to see a single tree in Tibet, let alone tens of thousands of cypress trees. Of course, this sentence does not apply to Linzhi, the south of the Yangtze River in Tibet. Thinking about it this way, I became very interested in Rezhen Temple. On the third day when Liu Wei and I set out, after walking through Junba Fishing Village, Xia Temple and Silin Temple, we crossed the extremely bad road condition of Chala Mountain, walked along the reservoir for a long time on the county road, and then walked on the limitless road. On the fast asphalt road, when an astonishing ancient Berlin appeared in front of our eyes, I knew that we had finally arrived at our destination - Rezhen Temple.
Friends who play Wenwan will know passion seeds. This is the only bracelet produced locally in Tibet. The so-called "cypresses in the world are hot", the place where the passion seeds are produced is the ancient cypress forest around Rezhen Temple .
In fact, this thousand-year-old cypress forest has a cool name: Rezhen National Forest Park, 160 kilometers away from Lhasa, at an altitude of 4,200 meters. It is amazing that there are so many towering trees at such a high altitude.
They are scattered around the temple, in different shapes, most of them are very tall, the highest is about thirty meters. I was really attracted by them, not at all like in Tibet, but there are still such white snow mountains in the distance.
Rezhen Temple, a thousand-year-old temple
Our car stopped at the white pagoda of the temple and saw a temple shop. I always like to drink some sweet drinks on the road. In the past, I bought a bottle of Nescafe coffee in a small shop, and I happened to chat with them. At this moment, the administrator came and asked me to register information with Wei Liu. During the epidemic, I understand.
In the past, Rezhen Temple should have required tickets. I found that the epidemic is still going on, and many places almost do not charge tickets. We went in directly with the locals, and we also gave explanations. The Rezhen Temple has a history of nearly a thousand years. It is the first temple of the Kadam Sect, and it is now classified as the Gelug Sect.
As a thousand-year-old temple, it is said that after the Guanyin Bodhisattva completed his practice on Puyang Gangqin Mountain, the shaved hair turned into tens of thousands of ancient cypress trees around the temple. "Rezhen" in Tibetan means "to eradicate all afflictions, and last until transcending the three realms of reincarnation." During the time I stayed here, I really eradicated all afflictions anyway.
I really like the golden roof of the temple, the sacred and solemn golden deer, the Falun, the blue sky and white clouds in the distance, and the Victory Building. It always feels very good. If you want to take a bus to Rezhen Temple, you can take a bus at Lhasa Eastern Suburb Station at 7:30 every morning.
Always the most beautiful on the road
I saw Zangxiong Village in the guide, and thought it shouldn't be too bad, so I decided to go to the next destination with Liu Wei. As a result, the beautiful scenery along the way is better than the surprise at the end, and indeed the most beautiful scenery is on the road.
It was still very early, we took a look, it is better to go back to Dangxiong to live. My God, this is a newly repaired section of road, almost no cars pass by, because Liu Wei is a drummer, so we thought about playing a section of drums under the blue sky, white clouds and snowy mountains.
We were on the top of a few houses, overlooking the snow-capped mountains from a distance, accompanied by cattle and sheep. I learned the African drum on the spot, and it still looks good. I still have to praise the teacher for being amazing.
Just at the corner of a fork in the road, we came to the famous National Highway 109. On the Qinghai-Tibet Line, the Nyainqentang Tanggula Mountain in the distance is always so magnificent, and the traffic flow obviously increased. With the sunset, we had a wonderful day.
Day6 Sub-horn Forest Paradise Grassland
Songtsan Jilin Ka
From a very objective point of view, Songtsam is really good. Whether it is known as "101 best hotels in the world" or "9 hotels with the best scenery in China", Songtsam's mountain residence series is really amazing.
I finally had the opportunity to come to this hotel facing the Potala Palace. Songtsam Lhasa is on the other side of the Lhasa River, in the Cijiao forest, on the paradise grassland, in a very quiet valley.
Songtsam, composed of ten seemingly "modern old buildings", looks more like a small village. Walking through these Tibetan-style buildings, it is like walking on the streets of Barkhor, brick by brick. The clothes are very Tibetan.
I took a taxi and came to Songtsam. When I got off the bus, the waiter helped me with my luggage. When I checked in with my ID card, I even provided buttered tea and barley biscuits. It was a very warm service. The distance between the buildings is not far, but they will still be picked up by battery cars. After all, it is a bit difficult to carry luggage and walk on the uneven stone road.
The most worth mentioning is my room, which has a balcony. When you open the window, you can see the blue sky, white clouds, snow-capped mountains and the Potala Palace in front of you. The room is very large, estimated to be 80 square meters, with an independent and comfortable bedroom with all-weather oxygen supply, a living room with super bright lighting, and a writing desk that allows me to write quietly.
The sofa in the room is more like a bed, and there is no problem if you want to sit cross-legged or lie flat. Coffee machine, tea bags, soda, everything you should have in the minibar. Except that it feels a bit lonely living alone in such a nice room, the rest is all enjoyment.
My favorite is a cup of warm white fungus and wolfberry soup when I return to my room after a tiring day. The two days I lived in Songtsam were probably my most memorable time in Lhasa recently. What a luxury it is to lie in bed and watch the Potala Palace, and it also comes with a perspective overlooking the city of Lhasa.
Waterfalls in the sub-horn forest
Brother Zhou asked me if we should ride a motorcycle and go to the mountain to have a look. If you go to the mountains, you will find dirt roads, and now there is a sanitation fee, five yuan per person. The water of the summer waterfall is rushing, just watching quietly like this.
There are many people passing Linka along the way, and Paradise Grassland is very suitable for spending a day in Linka around Lhasa, which is an outing. There are some ancient peach trees that will bloom as scheduled in March and April, and they are green and shaded in summer. I heard that in winter, the waterfall will freeze, which is very amazing.
It seems that every time I come to Jiaolin, the weather is particularly good, which makes people feel happy. I saw two friends with big bags walking towards us in the distance, so I realized that they were planning to camp here tonight. I think it is more than ten kilometers away from Lhasa. The light pollution will be much less, so we should be able to see it. Starry sky.
Regarding Cijiaolin, once I took a taxi back to Songtsam, the driver was telling me the story of Cijiaolin. Ci Zongzan, a Dharma protector of the Jokhang Temple, fell in love with the beautiful goddess Bailam, one of the highest Dharma protectors of Tibetan Buddhism and the daughter of the mother of all Buddhas, Bandan Lhamo. Ram found out that in a fit of anger, he drove Ci Zongzan to Cijiao Lin, and only allowed him and his daughter to see each other across the river once a year, and each time there was only half a stick of incense.
The villagers in Cijiaolin sympathized with what happened to the two of them, and designated the day when they met each other as "Valentine's Day of the Dharma Protector". Gradually, Cijiaolin Village has gradually become the hometown of Tibetan lovers in people's hearts.
The legend is like this, but it also sounds very romantic.
"Princess Wencheng" large-scale live-action drama
The vast majority of people who come to Jiaolin must come to watch the large-scale live-action drama "Princess Wencheng". I still overestimated the weather on the plateau at night, and almost froze myself to death while watching the show.
This is an outdoor performance scene with mountains and rivers as the scenery, and the starry sky can be seen when you look up. It tells the story of the marriage between Princess Wencheng and Songtsan Gampo. I will watch Princess Wencheng, more not because of its storyline, I love Tibetan people's dance drama. In live-action dramas, you can see waist drumming, Aga playing, cowhide boat dance and Tibetan opera.
My favorite is Tibetan opera. The big mask can roughly tell whether he is a good guy or a bad guy from the shape and color. Although I can’t understand it, listening to the voice and dancing the dance steps can make people’s hearts boil.
If you have nothing to do in Lhasa, it is still very good to spend a day visiting Jiaolin Guolinka, watching "Princess Wencheng", and drinking coffee.
Day7 Zaki Temple asking for money
When I wake up every Wednesday and scroll through Moments, I will always be swiped by a goddess who loves to drink. That is the only God of Wealth temple in Tibet-Zaki Temple. Every time we go to worship, we have to bring Hada and Baijiu. Well, maybe Hada can be saved, but Baijiu must not.
It was a coincidence that I met Zaki Ram when I came to Lhasa for the first time. I just made an appointment with a friend I met in the hotel to go to Zaki Temple without doing a strategy. I just heard that the God of Wealth in Lhasa is from the Han region. After entering Tibet with Princess Wencheng, he was enshrined in Zaki Temple.
People who seek wealth will come to Zaki Ram of Zaki Temple to worship, so it has gradually risen to become the only temple of wealth in the whole of Tibet. Wednesday morning is said to be the most effective time to worship. We often make an appointment with our friends to worship at Zaki Temple tomorrow on Tuesday night.
The morning in Lhasa is two hours later than that in the mainland. It is normal to start at ten o’clock. Sometimes you can’t get up. When you arrive at the gate of the temple at twelve o’clock, there are still many people holding wine bottles and khatas. The white smoke floats in the air, it is the simmering mulberry I am familiar with.
I bought some wormwood and pine leaves at the entrance of the temple, threw them into the simmering mulberry table, and watched the raging fire ignite them, as if taking my heart and going freely with the wind. I'm more used to queuing all the way, and I don't buy liquor and Hada directly until the entrance of the main hall, and more people will bring butter and spoons, not only for wine but also for lamps.
You can often see photos of Zakiram in everyone's home, car, or even on the screen saver of your mobile phone. The goddess looks very obvious, with a black face, angry eyes, and a tongue sticking out. It is an image of a god that is easy to remember . Every time I get close to her, I will salute to show my respect. After staying in Tibet for a long time, I don’t ask for anything, but if the goddess can make me rich, that would be very good.
Of course, Zaki Temple is not just for worshiping the God of Wealth. It is said that you pray for health on Monday, wealth on Wednesday, and peace on Friday. I am thinking that Zaki Ram may be drunk and hangover at other times. Just kidding, but it is not just a god of wealth, I heard that Zaki Temple is very effective in many aspects.
Approaching Zakiram in the shrine, with palms folded, everyone is praying for what they want in their hearts. But because there are too many people, your intimate contact with Zakiram will not exceed five seconds, so you must cherish this time.
After going around the entire hall clockwise, you can go upstairs along the stairs. The second floor is a blank corridor, and the third floor is a spacious terrace. Overlooking the city of Lhasa across the golden roof of the temple, it was possible to climb up to the fourth floor in the earliest days, with a wider view.
But the policy keeps changing, and it is normal to encounter places that are blocked and cannot go. There are many women in the yard who have been cleaning the butter lamps with water added with saffron. It looks golden and golden, but there is momentum.
If you come to Zaki Temple to worship on Wednesday, it will take about one to two hours for the whole process. You only need to follow the flow of people in line to understand how to worship. Don't miss the roof of the Zaki Temple. Staying on the roof of the temple for a while after worship is also a meditation.
written in the back
Now I’m in Lhasa again. On my twelfth trip to Tibet, I took a direct flight from Quanzhou and stopped in Kunming. It took me six hours to travel from the southeast to the southwest of the motherland. Lhasa, which used to be out of reach, is within reach because of the convenience of transportation. .
Lhasa in the rainy season is a bit annoying, and it is hard to look forward to a ray of sunshine, most of which are still cold. I stayed in Lulang for a week, living a fairy-like life every day, eating matsutake with magic tricks. Go up the mountain to dig matsutake, and look at the prayer flags when the weather is good. The blue sky and white clouds are not absent. Of course, Linzhi is also the rainy season, and it often rains all day.
Tibet is really a place that makes people never get tired of coming here.