Impression of Lianghe
I am ashamed to say that as a native of Yunnan, when I heard the name Lianghe for the first time, I was at a loss, and I ignored it when I traveled to various countries. This time I took the opportunity to visit this small border town, leaving endless good memories. There is no The earth-shattering and peerless beauty, and there is no brilliant night scene with bright lights, but the hospitality of the people of Achang, the melodious and reverberating gourd silk rhyme, and the beautiful scenery of the riverside surrounded by mist make people reluctant to leave this peaceful and leisurely land everywhere. , everything is worth pondering carefully.
Lianghe was named Southern Song in ancient times, also known as Nandian, and Mengdi in Dai. As early as more than 2,000 years ago, it was the only place to pass through the world-famous "Southern Land Silk Road". This is the hometown of cucurbit silk. In this beautiful land, there is probably only a melodious musical instrument like cucurbit silk, which can match it.
Guanzhang New Village Natural Picture Scroll
Arriving at Lianghe, the first stop is Xiangnao Mountain, 17 kilometers away from Lianghe County, Dehong Prefecture. Walking into Xinzhang Village, an Achang village, the whole village is surrounded by tea gardens, tobacco fields, forests and other green mountains and green waters. The feeling of escape from the world.
Guanzhang New Village has a famous name in Lianghe County, "the first village of Achang beautiful and livable leisure tourism", in my opinion, it is worthy of the name, as a beautiful village demonstration integrating ecology, national culture, tourism and industrial development In the village, tourists can not only experience Achang brocade weaving, pounding cakes, making Huilong milled pot tea, etc., but also taste Huilong tea, Achang small pot wine, and Achang food. Experience the most dazzling ethnic customs.
A series of smooth roads criss-cross, and characteristic houses with blue tiles and white walls dress up the mountains and fields. Today’s villages have long lost the dilapidated stereotype. Guanzhang New Village is surrounded by tea gardens, tobacco fields, forests and other green mountains and green waters, outlining a beautiful ink painting.
The uncanny workmanship of the ancestors has made the terraces beautiful and beautiful, and they are spread out layer by layer. They are the most amazing earth sculptures. Although they are not made by famous artists, but standing on this terraced fields, what you see is the most beautiful. China. It is a pair of working hands that build it into a sky ladder that circles the mountains, along its beautiful arc, rises up layer by layer, and lives in the clouds on the top of the mountain.
The Achang is one of the seven minority groups unique to Yunnan with a small population. In Guanzhang Village, the industrious Achang are cultivating their own world. The Husa knife forging skill of the Achang nationality and the Achang epic "Zhepama and Zhemima" were included in the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage protection lists. At the same time, it was included in the first batch of intangible cultural heritage protection list in Yunnan Province. There is also a legendary myth about "Dengwoluo".
Legend has it that the goddess Japama who created the world and the male god Jamima weaved the sky and the earth, and jointly created human beings. One day, a storm suddenly swept across the land, flooding all the villages. Zemima hastily used the three ground wires that had been drawn from the earth to sew up the sky on the east, west and north sides. The sky in the south is impenetrable, and the storm is still pouring. After discussing with Zhamima, Japama and Zemima decided to build a Nantian Gate in Ranedan to block the wind and rain in the south and protect the people in the south from floods. This gale and lightning conceived the largest god of fire and drought, La Liam, and descended to the center of the earth. He created a fake sun in the sky that would neither rise nor set, which dried up ponds, flowers, plants and leaves, and people suffered from drought again. In order to save the earth and human beings, Zhepa Ma used magic to defeat La Imam, poisoned him with "Ghost Seeing Sorrow", and shot down the false sun with a huge self-made bow and arrow, so that human beings were reborn again. Afterwards, in order to prevent demons from reappearing in the heaven and earth, after giving blessings to human beings, they flew into the sky on the fourth day of the first month of the lunar calendar. Zemima rides on the sun and patrols the earth during the day; Japama rides on the moon and patrols the space at night.
On the day when Zhamima and Zhapama went to heaven, people set up the bow and arrow left by Zhapama on the spot, danced and sang songs for three days and three nights, in order to I am grateful for their great kindness in saving mankind. From then on, this day became the "Wolo Festival" (Wolo means joy), and the dance evolved into Dengwoluo.
Accompanied by unique music with strong ethnic characteristics, the Achang people sang songs and danced "Dengwoluo". Become lively and energetic.
The costumes of the Achang nationality are unique, and women's costumes are different according to age and marriage. Unmarried girls usually wear a wide-breasted or double-breasted top, black trousers, an outer waistband, and a black Baotou. Women in the Lianghe area generally wear red or blue double-breasted tops and tube skirts, with leggings wrapped around their calves, and black cloth wrapped around their heads, which are about 0.3 meters high. Four or five small colorful hydrangeas hang from the left side of the top of the headbands, which is quite distinctive.
Every time they go out, the women dress up carefully. They took out all kinds of jewellery, put on big earrings, exquisitely carved bracelets, silver collars, and hung long silver chains on the four silver buttons on the chest and around the waist... Let's go Lu Lai is shining with silver light and has a dazzling demeanor.
The impression of a place largely depends on what I see and feel here. The hospitable Achang people, the simple folk customs, and the beautiful scenery make me feel good about this quiet and small village that is "out of this world". , Tired of looking at the neon lights of the city, it is better to come here to experience the original customs of ethnic minorities. The local customs alone are worth the trip.
Achang Folklore Passionate and Unrestrained
As mentioned earlier, you can experience the most dazzling ethnic customs with Achang friends here, and getting married is undoubtedly the ultimate state to experience the Achang customs. The groom has to go through various interesting challenges before he can meet his bride. The fun can only be understood by experiencing it personally. Of course, there is no such step as entering the bridal chamber.
Sewing a wedding dress is the best blessing for this important event in life. Even in today's highly mechanized world, people here insist on making a dress of their own. The craftsmanship of brocade weaving is very complicated and the process is also very cumbersome. From weaving to weaving and embroidery, every stitch and thread embroiders the expectation of a better life. Perhaps only in such a paradise can we calm down and complete such a time-consuming and labor-intensive project.
The wedding of the Achang nationality also starts with singing and dancing, or it can be said that the whole ceremony is strung together by songs and dances, representing the blessings of the tribe to the new couple. I don’t know if I was infected by this enthusiastic atmosphere, and a group of friends in the same company also danced. If you want to say how powerful this kind of activity is, even a serious person can be involuntarily booed by the enthusiastic Achang people. Get involved.
Getting married is not easy anywhere. Apart from the usual talent show like singing, there are more challenges waiting for the groom. You have to walk through the arch made of firewood, and you have to carry a long bamboo to pick up the contents of the bowl. Without eighteen martial arts, you need eighteen red envelopes to successfully pass the level.
Faint Tea Fragrance Huilong Resort
The famous Huilong tea is a specialty of Lianghe County, Dehong Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province. Almost every household here has experience in growing tea, and the Achang people have an indissoluble bond with tea. Their folk literature, such as myths, legends, and folk songs, are inextricably linked to tea. Lianghe's unique "Tea Picking Tune" is even more well-known, and almost all the tea-picking girls can sing it. Now that we have come to Lianghe, it is unreasonable not to go into the tea garden in person, and experience picking tea leaves by ourselves. A group of people hike the tea garden under the blue sky and breeze, learn to pick tea, fry tea, and finally sit down and taste Huilong’s special handmade tea. .
Lianghe probably has a sense of immortality. The seven-color light among the clouds walking through the ten-thousand-acre tea garden, and the huge cloud cluster that looks like Lu Yu's head are very rare.
According to the "A Brief History of Nandian Tusi", in 25 BC, the Longjiang and Dayingjiang river basins at the west foot of the Gaoligong Mountains were a fertile place, and the De'ang (Pu people), Wa people, Dai (Yue people) ancestral tribe, these people formed the ancient Nandian (Lianghe) indigenous ancestors. The history of tea in Lianghe County is closely related to the migration and reproduction of human beings. The De'ang people are the "oldest tea farmers" who live on tea. It has been thousands of years since the ancestors of Lianghe discovered tea and cultivated it for consumption.
The beauty of tea lies in the mountains and rivers. It is beautiful, full of hard work and wisdom in the world. Human water lies in nature, unadorned, simple and natural, and lies in the true expression of self-disposition. The people of the tea country are hospitable and enthusiastic. It is the high mountain in the south. The rain nourishes the people of the tea country, giving birth to their enthusiasm, hospitality, hard work, kindness, and also makes this place rich in water and soil.
Raise the drone to look down at this land from the sky, surrounded by clouds and mist. It is often shrouded in steam and water mist in the morning. The excellent climate and resource conditions are very suitable for the growth and development of tea trees, and the unique climate has created the unique intrinsic quality of Huilong tea. .
"Among the wild springs, fireworks and white clouds, you can sit and drink fragrant tea and love this mountain." The mountains are lush and green, and as far as the eye can see, there are various levels of green, with endless changes in shades and shades, stacking a green and cool world that stretches for hundreds of miles.
After being picked, Huilong tea has to go through processes such as frying, kneading, kneading, and shaking to be considered a finished product. There is no hidden secret, but this common practice makes it simple and pure.
Stir-frying tea seems simple, but it also requires patience and skill. Using hands as shovels and rolling in a scorching iron pan, you need to constantly change the technique to stir-fry a pot of good tea. Once the tea is fried, the aroma will become more intense. The hand-fried tea is kneaded with the sincerity and ingenuity of the master. With just one pot, the impetuousness of this era is evaporated, and the simple heart is precipitated.
I finally understand why there are so many steps in making tea, probably due to the respect for handmade tea, from picking to processing, every step of the heart, let Lianghe "Huilong tea" have a refreshing aroma, rich chestnut aroma, mellow taste, thick Strong but not strong, sweet but not astringent, long aftertaste.
For the people here, tea is a kind of life, as common as firewood, rice, oil and salt. While picking tea leaves and chatting about homework, tea has been integrated into their lives in this way. Without the famous name of Pu'er, without the well-known Dianhong, Huilong tea appears in the lives of local people in the most authentic manner, not unattainable, but in everyone who feels dry mouth In an instant, I think of it, and I can take a sip in every spare time in my busy life.
Dragon Banquet
You may have heard of or eaten the whole sheep banquet and the whole fish banquet, but you must be unfamiliar with the whole tea banquet. This time we tasted the famous local tea in Lianghe, the hometown of Huilong tea. A full tea banquet made of Huilong tea.
The dishes of the Huilong Tea Banquet include:
1. Chashan Chaofeng: "Chashan Chaofeng" is fumigated using Dachang's famous Huilong tea and the ecological native chickens raised in the tea garden. It is delicious, fragrant, tender and healthy.
2. Longyou Tea Sea: "Longyou Tea Sea" is made with Dachang Huilong tea and Lianghegu flower fish as the main ingredients, together with sauerkraut. The perfect combination of fish and tea, the fish is tender and fragrant, the taste is excellent, the soup is clear and moist, and the tea is fragrant. The whole dish is like a dragon swimming in the sea, with a special flavor.
3. Tea-flavored keel: "Tea-flavored keel" is made from Dachang ecological small black pork ribs that have been soaked in Huilong tea in Dachang Township. The pork ribs after soaking have the fragrance of Huilong tea and are ecological The pork of the little black pig is fresh and tender, and after being deep-fried at high temperature, it is overflowing with fragrance, excellent taste and endless aftertaste.
4. Huilong tea balls: "Huilong tea balls" are boiled with quail eggs, Huilong tea and other seasonings. Strong and fragrant.
5. Tea Pearl Yuanbao (tea meat balls): Legend has it that Dachang Huilongzhai is guarded by two dragons. During the harvest season, the two dragons will spit out the dragon balls in their mouths to bless Huilongzhai with good weather and Huilong tea. Mao, in order to be grateful for the protection of the two dragons, people made meatballs with minced meat supplemented with fresh tea leaves from Huilong, and named them Chazhu Yuanbao.
6. Huilong Tea Crisp: "Huilong Tea Crisp" is made from a selection of local Huilong tea buds and leaves, native eggs and pea flour (or refined flour) fried at high temperature. fish.
7. Spring in the snow: "Spring in the snow" is made by hand-grinding tender tofu with peeled black beans from Dachang, adding minced meat, sauce, Lianghe black fungus, and freshly soaked Huilong tea leaves and simmered slowly over low heat. become. The tea in the slow stew is slowly immersed in the tofu. The tenderness of the tofu blends with the bitterness of the tea. After the pot is cooked, it is decorated with green tea, so it is called Snowy Spring.
8. Huilong BRIC: "Huilong BRIC" selects the unique ecological small black pig in Dachang Township. The meat is delicate and moist. Wash it with warm water and put it in a boiling water pot. After boiling the bleeding water, wash it and cut it into cubes. Fresh leaves of high-quality ecological Huilong tea, served with sugar, soy sauce and other auxiliary materials, are fumigated continuously on low heat, and the delicious food with thin skin, tender meat, bright red color and strong tea flavor is born.
The whole tea banquet sounds like a dark meal. While waiting for the dishes to be served, I was curious and apprehensive. However, when the dishes were served, I realized that the use of tea leaves in the dishes can be so diverse and harmonious, subverting my imagination. imagine. "Everything can be fried" is true. The fragrant tea leaves are coated with egg liquid and starch, and fried in a pan, the children next door are crying.
I really admire the imagination of the people here. In addition to being the protagonist in the dish, the tea leaves also perform extremely well as a supporting role. The main reason is that the aroma of tea can relieve greasy and freshen. I have to say that this meal was thought to be a gimmick The whole tea banquet did not disappoint.
root-seeking gourd shreds
Lianghe has a long history. As a major transportation route from the mainland to Southeast Asia and South Asia and an ancient military strategic hub, Lianghe has a profound heritage and diverse cultures. Moreover, this is the birthplace of cucurbit silk culture, known as the "hometown of cucurbit silk". Teacher Ni Kaihong's solo has a beautiful and gentle tone, with intimate and delicate emotions, as soft and elegant as quivering silk, giving people a subtle and hazy aesthetic feeling.
To make a piece of cucurbit silk, there are mainly processes such as material selection, drilling, tube making, spring loading, installation, and sound calibration. The picked gourds are selected, the plump and thick ones are peeled and soaked, and dried in the sun for several days, and then a hole is drilled in the middle of the bottom of the gourd, and the inner flesh and seeds are removed to form a hollow shape. Roasting and preventing insects is an important part of the production. Baking the gourd and the purple bamboo used as the main and auxiliary pipes on a small fire can prevent insects and increase the toughness of the material. The thickness of the main pipe and the auxiliary pipe should match the size of the gourd. Generally, there is one main pipe and two auxiliary pipes. The main pipe is long and the auxiliary pipe is short. The top of the supervisor needs to dig grooves and install reeds. This is the key. In the old days, the technology was not developed, and the bamboo pieces were installed, and the sound of the cucurbit silk was not bright enough. Later, the ingenious Dai compatriots used thin copper as the reeds. Let the timbre produce a qualitative leap. Drill three holes at the bottom of the gourd according to the thickness of the main pipe and the auxiliary pipe, insert the bamboo pipe, install the mouthpiece and soft plug, check the sound, seal and polish, and a piece of gourd silk is made.
In the villages and villages of Lianghe, you can hear the melodious and melodious music of cucurbit silk, but the sound of cucurbit silk in Banggai Village seems to have more of a simple and ancient cultural heritage. The history of cucurbit silk is very long. It can be traced back to the pre-Qin period. There are many moving legends among the people. It is said that on the banks of the Mengyang River in Lianghe County, a mountain torrent broke out. His sweetheart, the Buddha was moved by his unswerving love, he inserted a bamboo tube into the golden gourd and gave it to the brave little Bumao, who held the golden gourd in his hands and blew a wonderful music. Immediately, the wind was calm, the flowers were in full bloom, and the peacocks opened their tails, wishing the couple good luck and happiness. Since then, the cucurbit silk has been passed down by the Mengyang Dai people in Lianghe County.
When it comes to cucurbit silk, one has to mention Dequan. Dequan grew up in the fertile soil of cucurbit silk culture, and was influenced by gourd art since he was a child. The song "Phoenix Bamboo in the Moonlight" blew out all people's imaginations about Yunnan, the lush phoenix bamboo forest, and the unique Dai houses. Scattered in the bamboo forest, like stars in the sky, surrounded by mountains and rivers, under the melting moonlight, the gourd silk faintly floats out of the bamboo forest, quiet and melodious, light and elegant.
When I came to the former residence of Gen Dequan, the house in front of me was built by the grandfather of Gen Dequan. It is a traditional hatchback room, about 120 square meters. In 2013, Lianghe County remodeled the old house. Here are the growth history, masterpieces and life achievements of Gen Dequan. It is said that Banggai Village, where Dequan lives, is adjacent to the Mengyang River. In the early morning sleepiness, he looked at the bank of the river, misty and shadowy, and a small divination whistle was walking along the forest path. At this time, the master suddenly thought of his own life. The first love, also in such a hazy weather, walked in the forest with an oil-paper umbrella. So there was the moving song "By the Mengyang River".
The gourds in the courtyard are connected in series and hung on the door frame. When a gust of wind blows, the gourds collide with each other, making a crisp sound. The objects placed in the hut seem to be used to make gourd silk. Together with the gourd hanging at the door, it has become people's remembrance of Mr. Dequan.
Mengyangjiang, a place full of poetry. On both sides of the river bank, large tracts of reeds are blowing in the wind, and under the sun, the white reed flowers bloom brilliantly. Among the reeds, groups of egrets and waterfowls forage and play together, and on the river, villagers slowly advance on bamboo rafts. It's a pity that the weather is not beautiful and there is a sudden heavy rain, otherwise we must go on a bamboo raft to feel the poetic and picturesque flavor of Mengyang River.
Mengyangjiang, a place full of poetry. On both sides of the river bank, large tracts of reeds are blowing in the wind, and under the sun, the white reed flowers bloom brilliantly. Among the reeds, groups of egrets and waterfowls forage and play together, and on the river, villagers slowly advance on bamboo rafts. It's a pity that the weather is not beautiful and there is a sudden heavy rain, otherwise we must go on a bamboo raft to feel the poetic and picturesque flavor of Mengyang River.
Department of Propaganda of Historical Relics
Nandian Xuanfu Office, located at No. 103, Nandian Road, Chengzhedao Town, Lianghe County, was built in the first year of Xianfeng in the Qing Dynasty (1851). It is the best-preserved Tusi Yamen in Yunnan and the only unique one in Dehong Prefecture. National cultural relics protection unit. Walking into this deep house compound in the drizzle, you can feel a different historical atmosphere. The building complex is arranged in the form of Han-style government offices. It consists of four main courtyards, ten side courtyards, forty-seven buildings, and one hundred and forty-nine houses.
First of all, I have to explain to you what Xuanfusi is? This is an official post sent by the imperial court to appease the local area. It is specially used to govern the local administrative institutions of ethnic minorities. Its functions are above the local officials. It can be seen that this official still has certain requirements for the quality of life.
There are 8 buildings next to the house where the chieftain lives in Xuanfusi, commonly known as "Miss Building", the "Miss" inside is the wife of the chieftain, and the last generation of chieftains has a total of 7 wives, envy.
The housing plan is neat, with clear primary and secondary, wooden structure, thick beams and large columns, green dragon roof, carved beams and painted buildings. The small flowers protruding slightly in the courtyard dotted the bluestone road, and the green grass made the majestic building full of vitality.
These windows of stained glass are said to be all British products imported from Burma in the 24th year of the Republic of China. Now the nails and battens are all original.
Quaint Nine Guarantees
Located in Lianghe County, Dehong Prefecture, Jiubao Village, also known as Jiubao Ancient Town, was built in the Eastern Han Dynasty. It borders Baoshan Tengchong in the east, Yingjiang in the west, and Myanmar. The former residence of Li Gengen, a famous general of the 1911 Revolution, is here. Plaques, ancient city walls, stone streets, temples and ancestral halls and other places of interest in the Ming and Qing Dynasties are all over the ancient town. Walking on the streets, you can feel the strong ancient atmosphere. is not to be missed.
The local roll noodles are still made by traditional manual methods. The process is like carving exquisite artworks. The seasonings are carefully prepared, and the taste of hometown can't be forgotten.
The simplicity of Jiubao Ancient Town does not look like a scenic spot. The people here show the most ordinary daily life in Lianghe before our eyes. The old barber shop has no fancy equipment, only the simple craftsmanship of craftsmen, familiar old customers, Stepping in the door after saying hello, a piece of Luo is the taste of human kindness. Unlike the well-known ancient towns, full of tourists, shops everywhere, and hawkers along the street, in Jiubao, life is the most beautiful scenery.
In the past, Jiubao Ancient Town was built in imitation of a water town in the south of the Yangtze River, with vertical and horizontal water systems, a bit like the small bridges and flowing water in the ancient city of Lijiang today. It has both beautification and fire protection functions. Jiubaozheng Street is about 500 meters long. There are two gates in the north and south. The north gate has Li Yuanhong's handwriting, and the south gate has Zhaobi and Moon Arch. People have to pass through the Moon Arch before entering the city gate. Xia Xinding said that Jiubao Ancient Town still had city walls, moats and six city gates during the Republic of China, but they gradually disappeared since the 1950s.
Quietly standing in the northeast corner of the county, Jiubao Ancient Town leans against Ao Mountain in the east and Daying River in the west. The ancient city gates, city walls, stone streets, temples, ancestral halls, simple residents and other cultural resources all tell her ancient charm and leisurely posture, comfortable The climate has nurtured this paradise with the fragrance of rice flowers, lush sugarcane fields and shady bamboo forests.
In the past hundreds of years, Jiubao has been the political, economic and cultural center of Lianghe. It is an important node of the ancient Silk Road in the south, and it is also the hometown of patriotic Li Gengen. The modern history and cultural essence of Jiubao almost revolve around Li Gengen. If you want to understand Jiubao, you must start with Mr. Li Gengen. We walked into the former residence of Mr. Li Genyuan, a veteran of the Kuomintang and a famous patriot, in Jiubao. This courtyard was built in 1946 and completed in 1947. It is a courtyard-style building with civil structure.
A typical courtyard house with two screened walls in western Yunnan, tells the story of the outstanding people here. The mottled walls and deep courtyard record the past of Mr. Li. The drizzling rain gave this quaint building a more vicissitudes of life. The mottled marks on the wooden door recorded history and changes, but what remains unchanged is always the heroic spirit.
The collision and integration of Central Plains culture and frontier minority culture has contributed to the unique folk literature and drama club here, and the ancient Dongjing music has a long history in this place. If I hadn't come here, I would never have heard such beautiful, simple, and elegant music. Traveling is not only about seeing beautiful scenery, seeing great rivers and mountains, but also being able to get in touch with minority and unique local humanities and arts.
Just four days did not allow me to appreciate all the beauty of Lianghe.
There are still many places worth exploring in this beautiful small city. Walking along the Misty River and taking a nap in the streets of the ancient town, time will suddenly slow down here, allowing people to have more time to relax and find themselves, instead of going to those hustle and bustle. Tourist cities feel noisy in the world, it is better to come to Lianghe to experience the real tranquility and nature.