preamble

Moonlight, phoenix bamboo below

Soft and beautiful like a green mist

The Good Girl in the Bamboo House

Dazzling like a night pearl, listen!

How many affectionate gourd sheng

I pour out my heart's love to you

The moonlight is bright and the bamboo shadows are charming. The song "Phoenix Bamboo Under the Moonlight" led me into a sweet dream. I have liked ethnic style since I was a child, and I even bought a cucurbit silk. Although I was young and ignorant, I didn’t know what love was, but the music of cucurbit silk touched my ears and made people unable to extricate themselves. But childhood interests always came and went quickly. After playing with cucurbits for a while, they were abandoned in the corner. Until a few days ago when I cleaned up the room, I found the cucurbits that had been forgotten in the corner. The wonderful movement sounded again, and at that moment, an idea popped up, how about going to the hometown of Hulusi?

So, I set foot on the root of cucurbit silk. As usual, let's have some thoughts. I have a dream of traveling around the world, mountains, rivers, and oceans are all in my mind. Although I don't know when it will all be realized, I just know keep going! Where is the next stop? Maybe it's an island, or maybe it's a village, I don't know, the unknown of travel is always fascinating. May you and I walk together one day. Hi～Hello, I am Smile, this time I am greeting you in Lianghe, Yunnan.


our itinerary

D1 Xinguanzhang

D2 Back to Longzhai

D3 Banggai Village

D4 Former Residence of Li Gengen - Nandian Xuanfu Department - Jiubao Ancient Town - Former Residence of Li Gengen - Appreciating Dongjing Music


Day1 Be an Achang person for a day

The first time I saw the Achang people get off the car, I was a little surprised for a moment. On both sides of the street, villagers wearing Achang costumes were singing and dancing. Although I didn’t understand what it was, I thought they must be singing a welcome song. Welcome to A guest in the village. Speaking of the Achang ethnic group, many people may not know that there is such an ethnic minority. She is one of the smallest ethnic groups. So far, there are only about 40,000 people in our country. But in Guanzhang Village where we got off the bus, 100% People over 90 are from the Achang nationality, and there are about 4,000 people.

Before I went to Liangheqian, I had never heard of such a minority. Now I see that they are very hospitable: receiving singing and dancing, and singing and toasting when inviting distinguished guests to dinner. The Achang nationality on the dinner table is also very interesting. Although it is not as good as the "high mountains and flowing water" of the Tu nationality, it is also a way to invite people to drink. The old man will freely play the lyrics according to the guests, so no matter when you come, the songs she sings are different. The same thing is that both parties drink after the song, and only one drink per song. If the singing continues, then of course the wine will not stop.


Dengwoluo

At this time, some friends must have said that it is really lively and interesting, but if you know the Achang people, then you will know that every year the Achang people have such a festival, which is bigger and more lively than the New Year. That is the "Alu Woluo Festival" around 3.19-20 every year. Everyone will gather in the cultural square to dance the Woluo Dance. The dance steps are simple and easy to learn, especially the first section. Most people can follow the lead dancer and learn it in a minute. This festival has to start with the Achang people's own story of shooting the sun. The goddess Zhepama and the male god Zhemima who created the world, created the heaven and earth and human beings, defeated the demons, shot down the false sun, and restored peace to the world. In order to thank them, people raised their bows and arrows on the day they returned to the sky. Gao, singing and dancing for three days and three nights, there is today's "Wolo Dance". Guan Zhang is a major feature.

When I entered the village that day, I asked the locals if they usually wear such clothes, and they all gave me the same answer in unison. Most of the costumes of the Achang people seen today have been improved. At the earliest time, men wore forest blue cardigans and black trousers, while women wore turban caps. Now it is improved and simplified, and girls no longer wear long skirts, but short skirts and tube socks. But no matter how it changed, the colorful ball was still handed down. As long as you see these colorful balls, you must be of the Achang nationality~ You know, if you want to make a seemingly simple skirt, it takes a woman to work day and night for 3 months to make it. You can see how much it is One thing that takes time. Even so, a skirt sold in the neighborhood cost more than 3,000 yuan, which is really not high in terms of working hours. Friends who like Achang costumes may wish to bring a piece of Achang costumes back!


bridal chamber

When you come to Guanzhang Village, you may wish to experience a bridal chamber in the custom management. You have heard of all kinds of bridal chambers before, but it is the first time that the Achang people are as interesting and lively as the Achang people. They will arrange the bridal chamber in advance, and then let the guests play the role of Sina's bride. If Sina wants to embrace the beauty, it will have to undergo the test of the natal family. The first pass is a talent show, and you can enter the first gate only by singing folk songs or facing folk songs. Don’t think that once you enter the door, it’s over. Of course, you have to go through many tests, such as walking through an arch made of firewood. Of course, you can’t step on it, so you can only chop firewood to give red envelopes. I thought it would be fine to pick the things in the bowl with bamboo, but I never thought that there would be a bunch of people behind me making troubles when I picked it up, which added a lot of difficulty. It was so much fun~ Fortunately, after going through various tests, the little brother finally embraced the beauty. However, the local residents told us that there are more procedures than this when actually holding a wedding. This is just for us to experience~ but it is really interesting. They are warm and hospitable Achang people who can sing and dance. I look forward to participating in a real wedding one day. It will be an unforgettable memory.


Day2 experience the whole process of tea making

Huilongzhai

When you arrive at Lianghe, you must not miss the 10,000-mu tea garden here. Layers of tea leaves form a terraced landscape. The tea god Lu Yu (statue) stands majestically in the middle of the tea garden, as if guarding this side of the tea leaves, which makes people feel respectful. And our tea-picking journey started from the very beginning, each with a basket, if we can’t pick tea, we can’t make tea. Fortunately, there are quite a lot of tea leaves here, and there is no such thing as no tea leaves to pick. Following the example of the master, I also started picking tea leaves. Today is the day of the little tea-picking fairy! Can't wait to see the results!

The picked tea leaves need to be taken back to Longzhai by yourself. There is a special tea making place there. Don’t worry if you don’t know how to make tea. The master here will know that you have to complete all the steps. To be honest, I am not a person who likes drinking tea very much, but I fell in love with the tea here. At present, there are only two kinds of teas that impress me very much. One is the tea with sandalwood that I once drank in Gaozhuang, and the other is the green tea from Huilongzhai that I drink today. , the taste is fragrant, there is only a very comfortable tea astringency at the entrance and exit, followed by a steady stream of strong aftertaste, people can't help but drink a cup, and have another cup.

After tasting the tea, the tea maker also invited us to make tea together. Without this experience, I am afraid that I don’t know when I will be able to experience the whole tea making process so completely. We poured all the tea in the basket on the dustpan, and the master began to sift the tea we picked for us: "This is too much, this place can't be used..." Fortunately, most of them are still good. step. There are several stages in tea making, from the initial picking to kneading, roasting, and tea making. Each link has a specific process. If there is a problem in one of the links, it may affect the final tea product.

The step we need to carry out now is to knead the tea. When kneading, I always feel that too much force will damage the tea leaves. If the kneading force is too small, the taste will not be produced. Only those who have been making tea for a long time like the master can grasp the force just right. The next step is to fry tea. The firewood under the pot is burning happily, as if provoking us: "Come on, do you dare to fry tea?" Faced with such a high temperature, we can only raise our hands and surrender. The tea leaves are made slowly. Finally, the processed tea leaves are slowly poured into tea bags, and we also have "special" tea!


Dragon Banquet

Huilongyan is actually a farmhouse in Huilongzhai. Its biggest feature is that almost all dishes are made with tea. For example, rice boiled with tea, vegetables fried with tea leaves, and even fried tea leaves. I have drank a lot of tea and eaten a lot of tea meals, but this is the first time I have served tea directly as a dish. The tea leaves are covered with a thin layer of raw powder. They are a bit crunchy when they are just out of the pot, and they have a refreshing feeling when chewed. It sounds like a dark dish, but it tastes good~ Friends who are guests in Huilongzhai can Come to this farmhouse to try it. As part of the road there is currently under construction, it is a bit inconvenient. You can contact the farmhouse for reception before you go~


Ping An Village

There are some differences between Guilong Tea Industry and Huilongzhai's tea-making process and some of the car crafts in Huilongzhai. There are a lot of handmade tea in Huilongzhai. You can see women making tea at the gate of the village. However, Ping’an Village has formed a large-scale tea production line. When it is busy, all the machines will even be turned on. Machine made. It is not a good choice to come to Ping'an Village to watch the tea making process, taste a pot of good tea, and bring a souvenir to your friends.


Day3 Find the source of gourd silk

Gen Dequan's Former Residence

During the journey of searching for cucurbit silk, one person that cannot but be mentioned is Dequan, who is the first person in cucurbit silk in China and is known as the "Prince of Cucurbit Silk" at home and abroad. A very important part of our itinerary is to visit the former residence of the master and observe the production process of cucurbit silk. The former residence of Dequan is located in Banggai Village on the banks of the Mengyang River in Dehong. So there is such a name. Later, with the support of the government, the small village improved day by day, and now it is living a stable and healthy life by itself. The eldest sister who received us, her home-brewed banggai wine is sold all over the country, and she also uses purple rice to make wine. It is said that she is the only one in the village who uses purple rice. She also entertained us with the whole purple rice, which is sweet and delicious. It is estimated that the brewed wine is also sweet and delicious, full of aroma.


The former residence of Ning Dequan is near the elder sister's house. The hut is very simple. There is a mango tree full of fruits in the courtyard. The surrounding area is a place where Ning Dequan used to live and make gourd silk. The courtyard is not big, and three sides are connected with small attics. The main hall is now an exhibition hall, and the small house on the left seems to be a place where gourd silk is made. There are many gourd silk accessories. Although the cucurbit silk hanging on the door and the roof is not as crisp as the wind chimes, there will be a melodious and ancient sound if you hit the hanging cucurbit silk. The sound carried the thoughts thousands of miles away, and the master seemed to be concentrating on making his cucurbit silk in his house.

Of course, I know this is not true. The person who is making cucurbit silk in front of me is a fellow disciple of Ni Kaihong, a rising star of cucurbit silk. That's right, after visiting the former residence of Dequan, we drove to the Hulusi production base on the mountain. The base is a two-story loft near the bamboo forest on the mountain. Among them, the penultimate small house on the left hand side is where the cucurbit silk is made. In addition to assembling the cucurbit silk accessories of a predetermined shape, it is necessary to pass multiple tests to adjust the pitch of the cucurbit silk. If the pitch is wrong, you still need to adjust the test blowing and then adjust until the pitch is correct. It is not easy to make cucurbit silk!

Originally, we planned to catch fish in the mud pond near Banggai Village, but the weather was not good, and it rained heavily, trapping us in the house. Otherwise, listening to music in the bamboo forest, playing in the river by the river, catching fish in the pond, and soaking in an open-air hot spring without sleeping will be fun~ The hot spring on the other side of the river is a pure natural hot spring, and the temperature of the water is tens of degrees. People who don’t come here I don't know the hot spring resources here, and I'm afraid those who come here will not be willing to leave. A group of our little friends made an appointment, next time when there is no heavy rain, we will make up for the regrets here.


Day4 Ancient Town Tour

Nandian Xuan Fu Department

On the last day of the itinerary, we came to the Nandian Xuanfu Department, which is known as the Little Forbidden City of the Dai people. The name "Nandian" can be traced back to the Southern Song Dynasty. In the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, Lianghe was under the control of Tengyue Prefecture (now Tengchong County). "South" refers to the location in the south of Tengchong, and "Dian" refers to the dam in the suburbs, so it is called "Nandian". Now looking at the Nandian Xuanfu Department still has a heavy sense of history. Pushing open the door, there was a creak, as if pushing away a world of time.

The first door on the right hand side you can see when you enter the park. It used to be a prison, and now the cage is still full of various instruments of torture, such as the splints used to pinch fingers and the handcuffs used to lock prisoners, etc. that Huanzhugeli saw. Thinking about how many prisoners were locked up in the prison, and the light in the prison was not enough, I always felt a little chilly, so I left in a hurry. Immediately next to it is the court, which is solemn and dignified. Behind the court is a map of the chieftain's jurisdiction, from which it can be seen that the chieftain's jurisdiction at that time was very large. How big is it? Tell me something and understand it all. Every year on New Year's Eve, the chieftain's mansion will "open the doors of wealth", and say an auspicious word for each door opened. It is said that it will be opened from the very beginning of the dark, and it will be dawn when all the doors are opened.

And the Nandian Xuanfu Department under our feet covers an area of ​​more than 10,000 square meters. In addition to what we saw just now, if we go further inside, there are theater buildings, young lady buildings, gardens, armories and so on. We almost didn't get lost in the mansion. Fortunately, we have someone familiar with the territory to guide us. But don’t worry about getting lost inside, you can go out of the yard quickly by walking directly to the buildings on the main line.


Jiubao Ancient Town

The ancient towns I have been to may not be counted in two palms, but no matter how many times I have visited, every time I go to a city, if I have enough time, I always want to walk around the ancient towns and old streets here. Unlike other commercialized ancient towns, Jiubao Ancient Town is full of a wide variety of souvenirs and gourmet shops, and it is not like the old streets of ordinary markets like vegetable markets. A few steps down the street, there are some places that sell roll noodles. The people who buy things are basically locals. They take a few rolls of noodles and take them home. It's not lively, but it's not lonely either. Walking on such an old street can only make people feel at ease. As a foodie, of course I eat while holding it, wow~ delicious! Exciting~ I didn't expect the taste to be so good when I found a random one.


Former Residence of Li Gengen

In Jiubao Ancient Town, there is a famous person who has to be mentioned, that is, Mr. Li Genyuan, who has his former residence on the street. Once, the gate of their house was built on the street, but later it was rebuilt and retreated to the side of the street. , but Li Genyuan's former residence is still one of the most well-preserved buildings in Jiubao Ancient Town. In the former residence, you can still see some exquisite Western-style carvings at that time and so on. Mr. Li Gengen lived here for a period of time in his early years, and later went to Tengchong, so there is also Li Gengen's former residence in Tengchong.

Appreciation of Dongjing music

I have listened to Mozart's symphony and the folk music of the Twelve Women's Orchestra, but I have never heard the music of Dongjing. If it weren't for this trip to Lianghe, I don't know how long it would take to learn about such an ancient folk music. The music is sometimes passionate, sometimes low and melodious, interweaving into a solemn and majestic symphony.

You may not have imagined that the people who played this kind of music were a group of retired old comrades, the youngest one was in his fifties, and the oldest was in his eighties. They are all members of the Dongjing Association. This is not an organization that can be joined casually. Membership also needs to consider a person's talent and character. If one of them fails to meet the standard, or most people in the organization do not If you agree to pass, you will not be able to join the club. There is no detailed regulation on the number of performers. Depending on the situation, sometimes all the members will attend the evening party invited by the city.

Usually, this is the place where they meet. Everyone "pays the dues" to eat together, and tourists can also come to visit or come to play. On the 10th, 20th or 30th of every month, we will gather here for rehearsal, and we can hear a relatively complete performance. Except for these times, if you want to see the complete performance, you may have to wait for major festivals to hear it. For example, you can definitely see them on the square of the Dengwoluo Festival in March every year. If you are lucky enough to see such a performance, you must remember to stop and savor it carefully.


About the hotel

Since Lianghe's tourism industry is not as mature as Tengchong's, there are actually not many options for accommodation at present. We stayed at Jinta Hot Spring Hotel most of the time, which is one of the best hotels in Lianghe. There are hot spring baths in the hotel, and there are many choices of bathing pools. There are not only massage pools, but also special foot bathing pools. These supporting accommodations can be enjoyed for free. The business hours are from the hotel every morning to 11pm point. It doesn't matter if you don't have time to soak in the pool outside every day, the water in the shower pool in the room is also hot spring water.

If you don't like staying in a hotel, you can also choose a homestay in the village, so that you can further experience rural life. One of us stayed at the homestay in Xinguanzhang-. The location of the B&B is very close to the entrance of the village, only a few hundred meters away. The villagers transformed the newly built house of the tobacco company into a B&B, so that guests who come from afar can have a place to stay instead of coming in a hurry. Go in a hurry. Although the design of the B&B is not as exquisite as that of brand chain B&Bs, it feels like home. The pillowcases and bedding are clean and you can sleep comfortably.


about food

Dehong's food is really much more delicious than the surrounding food. In Lianghe, the most not to be missed is the toast feast~ We went to a relatively famous and distinctive restaurant in Mangshi. Walking into the restaurant has the feeling of stepping into a paradise. The boxes are set in small buildings with Dai characteristics, and the lobby collects a lot of old objects. As I also like old objects, I feel very cordial when I see those things.

Of course, the dishes are also very exquisite. The toast banquet is divided into Dai King’s Royal Banquet and Toast’s Family Banquet. It is the staple food. Of course they don’t eat this way now, but what remains the same is that cold dishes are served first, and the most important thing is that the cooking techniques and concepts remain the same as before. Look at the ribs, dried bamboo shoots, chicken soup, etc. on the table. The ingredients are very fresh and the taste is very delicious. When you come to Lianghe, remember to try this grand toast feast.

In addition to the toast banquet, don’t forget to eat mushrooms when you come to Yunnan. Now July and August are the best time to eat mushrooms. Find an old shop to taste the mushrooms. When you go home, you can give your family and friends a dry meal and tea. Lianghe Even if the trip is over.


about traffic

Lianghe is not too far from Tengchong and Mangshi, but there are not many direct flights. In Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai, there are usually direct flights from Hangzhou and Nanjing, but in most cases it is necessary to transfer from Kunming. In terms of distance, it is closer to Tengchong Airport. However, since Tengchong Airport is built on a mountain, the flight environment is not very good, and the delay and invalidation of aircraft are relatively normal. Half an hour before my departure, the direct flight from Hangzhou to Tengchong was cancelled. From Nanjing to Kunming, the flight was delayed for 6 hours, but this is not the worst. The worst thing is that our little partner on another flight flew to After Tengchong, he was unable to land and was repatriated. To explain this story is to suggest that if you come to Lianghewan, it is recommended to land at Dehong Mangshi Airport. Although the distance is farther than Tengchong, the flight is more secure than Tengchong in most cases.

As for the transportation in Lianghe City, since many scenic spots are in villages, there is basically no convenient public transportation that can be reached directly. It is recommended that you can drive here by yourself, and the time is better controlled.


conclusion

Yunnan is very big and beautiful! Don't be limited to Kunming, Dali and Lijiang anymore, come to Lianghe to have a look. The folk customs here are more simple, the cottages are more distinctive, and the ethnic culture is stronger.