Memoirs - Traveling Westward in the Grand Canyon of the Pamirs

In mid-March 2015, a picture of Turgen apricot blossom in the circle of friends deeply attracted me. Spring is here, let’s go to Xinjiang to see the apricot blossom. At the moment, I checked the Raiders on the Ant Honeycomb Network. The apricot blossoms in Datong Township in the south opened in early April, and the Turgen Apricot Blossom Festival in the north on April 13. It was difficult to choose. Finally, I decided to go to Datong in southern Xinjiang and Turgen in northern Xinjiang. root. After a lot of hard work, Nanjiang successfully formed a team: me, HL, Xiaoyu, and xtra; there were some twists and turns in the chartered car, and Master Ouyang, a Kashi driver with a good reputation on the Internet, had already made an appointment. He recommended his little brother Li to us. Hao, and agreed to form a team to go. According to the flowering period provided by Master Ouyang, it is determined to set off in Kashgar on April 2. Wherever we went on this trip, the economy is still relatively backward, and people's lives are still relatively poor. Master Ouyang suggested that we bring some old clothes and stationery and give them to those in need along the way. Xtar and I each collected some clothes, and immediately packed them and sent them to Kashgar for delivery to Li Hao. Due to the ravines on the plateau, rugged roads, backward traffic, drought and little rain, harsh weather, and relative shortage of living materials, we plan to purchase some materials in case they are not needed. On the afternoon of April 1st, the clothes we sent to Kashgar also arrived. Li Hao led us to the logistics company to pick up the package, and then went to the Kashgar wholesale market to buy some of the supplies needed for the trip, mainly drinking water, naan and tomatoes , Potatoes, onions and other vegetables and some fruits, under Li Hao's suggestion, we bought oily naan (the oily naan will not be affected by the long storage time). It turned out that this move was too wise, but it was hard work for the driver, Li Hao, who also worked as a chef while driving, but his cooking and driving skills were still very good.

The Pamirs were called Buzhou Mountain and Congling in ancient times, and the ancient Silk Road passed through here. Stretching across Tajikistan, China and Afghanistan, it is the confluence of many major mountain ranges in Asia, with an average altitude of 4000-7700 meters. It is known as the roof of the Asian continent. The main residents are Tajiks, and there are some Kirgiz and Turkmen Uyghurs. The purpose of our trip: along the Yarkant River, looking for the forgotten Xinghua Village in the valley of the Pamirs.

On April 2nd, a convoy consisting of two Toyota 4500s, a Harvard H5 and our Gonow GX5, with a total of more than 20 drivers and passengers marched to the hinterland of the Pamir Plateau. According to Master Ouyang, this time It is the biggest convoy he has led over the years, especially in the past two years, because you know why, southern Xinjiang, where few people go, is even more crowded. We walked all the way for a few days and rarely ran into other tourists.

Let’s talk about the seven-day itinerary first.

April 2: Kashgar --- Via Yingjisha --- Cross Teqinqike Daban --- Live in Akeqige Village, Kuslap Township, Akto County

April 3: Akeqige Village --- Bage Village --- Frontier Inspection --- Cross the No. 6 Bridge of Happiness --- Aykerik Village, Datong Township, Zhuta County

April 4th: Turn back to the No. 6 Bridge of Happiness --- Kuslav Township --- cross the No. 5 Bridge of Happiness and live in Baguzi Village, Tal Township, Akto County (Tal Tajik Township for short)

April 5: Baguzi Village --- Kuzizi Village --- Almalek Village --- Kukoxiluke Township, Taxian County -- Congling Tunnel --- Zhuta County (Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County Abbreviation of Kaitu International Hot Spring Hotel

April 6: Ta County---Stone City---Golden Grass Beach---Wakhan Corridor---Ibid.

April 7th: Ta County --- Taheman Prairie --- No. 4 Glacier of Muztag Peak --- Karakuri Lake --- Live in the lakeside inn

April 8: Lake Kalakuli---Kashgar---Leave the team

Xinghua Avenue

Xinghua Village in the Grand Canyon

On April 2, the carpooling teammates arrived in Kashgar one after another. The carpooling teams rushed to the border inspection station non-stop to obtain the border defense certificate. Master Ouyang led the team to the Karakunlun Mountains. Since some teammates arrived that day, in order to reach the village where we stayed tonight before dark, we had lunch in Yingjisha County and hurried on the road. About half an hour out of the county, a large area of water appeared in front of the right, which turned out to be the Yingjisha Reservoir. It seems that the water storage is quite large, which provides a guarantee for downstream agricultural production and domestic water use.

Yingjisha Reservoir

Leaving the Yingjisha Reservoir and entering the Gobi Desert, the road conditions began to deteriorate. The further you go, the more desolate you feel. Everyone was drowsy, and finally someone exclaimed, and there were stretches of apricot groves under the blue sky and white clouds, distributed around the wheat field, which was like an idyllic scenery.

Kyzyltao Township

Continuing on the road, it was the Gobi Desert that could not be seen.

Karakoram

Entering the hinterland of the mountain, we started the Panshan road trip.

Karakoram

Finally climbed over the Teqenqik Daban at an altitude of 3,700 meters. Looking back, the brown mountains are layered with haze, the exposed rocks are severely weathered, the altitude is high, the oxygen content is low, and the living environment is harsh. It is the most unsuitable for human beings in the world. One of the places to live. However, in the depths of each ravine, there may be one or several families living there. They may have lived in the deep ravine all their lives, and their ancestors have been living in the deep ravine for generations.

Teginetchik Daban

The transmission tower of China Mobile, let the deep mountain ditch carry the symbol of civilization.

Karakoram

At the foot of the mountain, the tenacious vitality of the millennium Populus euphratica is extremely shocking.

Karakoram

Because we lost touch with the command vehicle at the fork in the road, we went in the opposite direction and came to the Charlong Township Government. The enthusiastic Kirgiz old man set up a Bose for us to take pictures. The Polaroid I bought specially for this trip gave the old man his first photo. After the police from the township police station knew that we were lost, they escorted us in a special car until we crossed the fork. Thank you, the people's police!

Charlong Township

It was getting dark, and we groped our way forward. On the road close to Bage Village, misfortunes never come singly. Li Hao’s new car got a puncture. Everyone worked together to empty the trunk full of luggage and take out the spare tire. The villagers passing by also enthusiastically helped, and finally got it done. As a result, there was one more tire repair experience in the following trip, which is a later story.

Bagh Village

Akeqige Village, Kuslap Township, Akto County is the first stop of our trip. The villagers in this village belong to the Turkmanwei ethnic group, and we will live here tonight. We entered the village in the dark and met Master Ouyang's car. The women of the landlord's family are preparing dinner for us, traditional food --- pasta stew.
Due to the remoteness here, few strangers come to the village, especially to stay overnight. What's more, you know the reason, and there are few people who come to chat. Last year, Master Ouyang led the team and lived in his home. The landlord is an old village head. His house has many rooms. We have nine girls and eleven boys. We live in two rooms for men and women. The landlord charges 30 yuan per person including breakfast and dinner.
All the locals live in Tukang. Each room has a kang, a sub-shaped, a seven-shaped, and a U-shaped. The rooms are poorly furnished, with almost no common furniture, but the walls are decorated with brightly colored tapestries.

Akchig Village

The almighty Polaroid came in handy again.

The host's lovely children.

Akchig Village

In the early morning, by the stream in the village, people gathered together to discuss: A group of people came to the village?

Akchig Village

The uncle who released the water is probably preparing water for irrigation of the farmland.

Akchig Village

Young man, how many lambs have you added?

Akchig Village

The cleanliness of the environment depends on people!

Akchig Village

The cute little Balang, holding the naan we gave him, is so shy, and the old man loves it very much.

Akchig Village
Even though I live in a remote mountain village, I can't stop my love for beauty.

Akchig Village

Hope the villagers have a good harvest this year.

Akchig Village

On April 3, we had breakfast and reluctantly left Akeqige Village. Every day after that, I bid farewell in reluctance.
When we went to Akeqige Village yesterday, we passed through Bage Village, and we will turn back to Bage Village today.

Bagh Village

The villagers in Bagh Village belong to the Kyrgyz nationality, and the hats worn by men are different from those of the Uighurs. A family living at the head of the village warmly invited us to visit his home.

In recent years, income has increased, life has improved, and a new house has been built. Tapestries with different patterns are hung around the room, neatly folded quilts and mattresses are stacked against the wall, and the stove in front of the kang burns for warmth and makes milk tea.

Bagh Village

The old man told us that he has six children, three Barang and three girls.

Bagh Village

The almond trees are in full bloom.

Bagh Village

The aunt found her old hen.

Bagh Village

The hospitable villagers brought out their own dried fruits for us to eat, and gestured for us to take some into our pockets, thank you, thank you!

Bagh Village

The villagers brought the donkey for us to ride, and the old man held the reins tightly in his hand to prevent the girl from falling, kind-hearted mountain people.

Bagh Village

Xiaoyu, how does it feel to ride a donkey?

Bagh Village

When you come to the fork in the road, turn left first and go to Kuslav Township to refuel. Our car has to repair the tire.

Kuslav Township

Obviously our arrival has attracted everyone's attention. The children looked at their own images around HL happily and curiously.

Kuslav Township

The children in the repair department, three, eight, cousins.

Kuslav Township

The humble auto repair department, in this place with no village and no shop behind, highlights his importance. This is lunch for a large family---hand pilaf.

Kuslav Township

Coming out of Kuslav, walking not far in the direction of Taxkorgan, the lake-blue river jumped into our eyes: I finally saw you, the beautiful Yarkant River!
The Yarkant River is the source of the Tarim River. It originates from the Karakorum Pass in the Karakorum Mountains in northern Kashmir. The upper reaches are deep canyons, passing through the mountains of the Kunlun Mountains and becoming a small border between Kashmir and Xinjiang. With a total length of 996 kilometers, it flows from the southwest to the northeast, and flows through the Kashi area, Kezhou area, Hotan area and Aksu area. It is the largest river in the Kashi area. The first source of water is the melted ice and snow from Mount Chogori; the spring water gushing from the rock formations on the west bank of the twenty riverbed; the third is rainwater (Du Niang).

yrkand river

It was past noon, and my stomach was rumbling in protest. Master Ouyang decided to take a rest here to replenish food and grass. Haha, each car took out its own reserves. We sat on the bank, looked at the clear river, ate naan, and ate fruits such as cucumbers and pears. Who would have thought that this was also a feature of this itinerary? The transportation is inconvenient, the supplies are scarce, and there are few dining spots. Thanks to our mental preparation, we can also suffer from this crime.