Mom and Dad have been talking about going to Yunnan for fun. At the end of 2018, I finally had time to do the trip. After I helped them do some strategies, they traveled freely. After returning, Dad wrote this travel note and shared it with everyone.
Yunnan free travel
I have long wanted to go to Yunnan, and the more I know about its geography and history, the more I want to go.
I originally wanted to go in early January, but when I booked the air ticket on December 16, I found that the air ticket in January was slightly more expensive than in December, so I decided to book a flight on Ctrip for December 26 and return on January 7. Starting from Shanghai, plus the money for the round-trip bus is also more cost-effective than buying a ticket to Nantong Airport. Moreover, Shanghai is a direct flight, and Nantong has to stop on the way. I also paid attention to the train tickets. The train from Nantong to Kunming takes 38 hours, and the price of the hard sleeper is equivalent to that of the air ticket. The high-speed train from Shanghai to Kunming takes 12 hours, and the fare is 900 yuan. The price of the air ticket I bought (including airport construction and fuel surcharges) is as follows: for the outbound journey, the total of two tickets is 983 yuan; It is worth mentioning that online air ticket prices may change at any time. When we checked and compared on the computer, we found that some air tickets had increased by more than 200 in just a few minutes. Immediately afterwards, we booked a flight ticket from Kunming to Tengchong. The two tickets totaled 510 yuan, and we also selected the seat number and the hotel in Kunming.
On December 26, take a commercial vehicle (fare 60) from Xinghu 101 to Shanghai Hongqiao Airport. There was light to moderate rain, and one plane took off every 90 seconds or so. The water mist splashed by the plane covered half of the fuselage, and only the nose was exposed, speeding on the runway, and then drilling into the clouds. Five minutes after our plane took off, there was a clear sky outside the porthole, and a static and flat cloud blanket under our feet. This cloud blanket covers all the way to northern Yunnan, that is to say, it is raining in half of China, except Yunnan, which is in the dry season at this time. Walking out of Kunming Airport, looking up, there are brilliant stars, which is rarely seen in Nantong. The altitude here is 1891 meters, and there is no industrial pollution, so the visibility is naturally good.
On December 27th, sunny, I took the subway line 3, arrived at the "Xishan" station, got on the small noodles of the farmer's house, and circled straight to the top of the west mountain. This kind of hard-cut road seems to be challenging the limit of the performance of the vehicle. Challenge the limit of driving skills. Later I learned that this kind of road is common in Yunnan. There are several restaurants on this road. The driver said that their main dishes are wild game. The more dangerous the place, the safer? Entering Xishan Park, the ticket is half price, 20 yuan. In tourist attractions across Yunnan, the ticket price is basically a unified policy, that is, those who have an old age certificate are free of charge if they are over 60 years old. Presumably, people over 60 years old in Yunnan Province have an old age certificate. People over 70 years old without an old age certificate are free with their ID card, and those aged 60-70 are half-price with their ID card.
Xishan Park is located on the east slope of Xishan, facing Dianchi Lake and Kunming City, suitable for sightseeing. People all come in and out by cable car, only we actually come up from the back mountain, just because there is no sign at the exit of the subway station. In the future itinerary, I often feel that Yunnan people are not smart enough, and the traffic organization is unscientific. There are billboards everywhere that welcome you to play, but there are few "maps" and "tables" that tell you how to play.
In our Nantong, the originating routes of the East Bus Station and the West Bus Station overlap and fully cover each other. In Yunnan, each city and county has three or five bus stations, and the lines operated by each station are only responsible for a certain direction, forming a self-contained system, and he does not introduce other stations. If the place you want to go is not within his range, you can only go to other stations one by one to find it.
The business scope of the five main bus stations in Kunming is as follows:
East Passenger Station: Wenshan, Honghe, Yiliang, Luoping, Shilin direction.
West Passenger Station: Dali, Baoshan, Nujiang, Dehong, Lijiang, Shangri-La, Lincang direction.
South Passenger Station: Yuxi, Pu'er, Honghe (Jianshui, Shiping), Xishuangbanna direction.
North Passenger Station: Qujing, Zhaotong, Xundian, Songming, Luquan, Dongchuan District.
Northwest Passenger Station: Chuxiong, Wuding, Yuanmou, Yongren, Yimen, Panzhihua (Sichuan) direction.
In Dianchi Lake, feeding the red-billed gull is the most interesting. It is a migratory bird and lives in Dianchi Lake from November to February every year. You will not see them when you come to play at other times. He tore the bread into small pieces and held it in his hand. He raised his hand, and the red-billed gulls chirped happily and lined up to peck at the food.
We chose to take a double-decker bus, sit in the first row on the upper floor, leave Dianchi Lake, and visit the urban area. This method is economical, restful, and efficient. The route passed by the double-decker bus cannot be a remote place. There are many double-decker buses on the bus line in Kunming. If I really want to ride them all, it will take 2 days. We came to the city center and walked around the Golden Horse and Jade Rooster and the Commercial Pedestrian Street. Superficially touched the water and passed by in a hurry. Every time I arrive in a city, if I have enough time, I will take the bus and go back to the hotel to look back on the map. The outline of the city will be clear.
On December 28th, sunny, the plane to Tengchong at 9:20, Didi took a taxi to the airport. One hour later, at Tengchong Airport, the driver of the car took us to a hotel in the city center. The standard room is 80 yuan, with complete facilities, which is more affordable. For lunch, the roast pork is eaten next door to the hotel, and it is sold now. After dinner, take the special bus at the gate to Atami, the ticket is 4 yuan/person.
What a hot sea, a 5A-level scenic spot, the scenery is spectacular, so worth coming. I wanted to soak in the hot springs, but the bathrooms here are all open-air, mixed men and women, and we need to bring swimsuits. We didn't have enough time, so we had to give up. Atami is rich in geothermal resources, the temperature of the geothermal is high, and there are rushing streams and springs everywhere in the mountains. The combination of the two is spectacular. The hot water flowing off each year is equivalent to the combustion value of 270,000 tons of standard coal. The smell of sulfur is relatively strong. Will the staff and hawkers here all the year round not affect their health? No, these mineral waters are drinkable. Many hot springs are like boiling water in a pot, tumbling and steaming. Following the advice given by the online guide, we bought a bunch of eggs (4 pieces) outside the gate of the scenic spot for 5 yuan, and it cost 10 yuan to buy inside. Steamed next to the "big rolling pot" spring, they are standard grass eggs with first-class quality. Later, the eggs we bought in Yunnan were all grass eggs, which were very cheap.
We didn't go to Tengchong Volcanic Park, because we saw pictures of that scenic spot on the Internet, and it didn't feel very good. Although it is also a must-see attraction for tour groups, there are many negative reviews on it on the Internet.
On December 29, cloudy and sunny. The passenger station is opposite, but there is no bus to Mangshi. In the morning, we will go to the East Bus Station and buy a ticket to Mangshi at 2:10 pm. The fare is 53 yuan per person and the distance is 115 kilometers. Immediately took a taxi to Heshun Ancient Town, the ticket was half price, and the total for two people was 55 yuan. I have been to eight or nine ancient towns in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Anhui, but this ancient town is more distinctive and worth a visit. Firstly, the residential areas are very different, and secondly, the humanities are very different. The town is very large and there are many tourists. Many tourists choose to live here. In the inn, some even stayed for 4 days, savoring it carefully. The town has the former headquarters of the Expeditionary Army, and a library built more than 80 years ago. The town is surrounded by mountains and rivers, with beautiful scenery. If you live in an inn in the town, the boss will send a car to pick you up at the airport, free of tickets, but every scenic spot in the town has a ticket checker, so you can't get in.
From Heshun, take a taxi to Dieshuihe Waterfall Park. In fact, we could have taken the bus. We were afraid of waiting, and we were afraid of running away. The water of Dieshuihe Waterfall comes from the remaining veins of Gaoligong Mountain. There are two groups with different styles. One waterfall is 46 meters high. If you have time, you can take a detour to the upper mouth of the waterfall to have a look; The sound of huge water flow can be heard from a long distance. There are steps in both places, you can easily walk down to the waterfall to take pictures. The trees are verdant and the winding paths are secluded. In summer, this is a good place to escape the heat. Tickets are half price, 5 yuan/person. We entered the park at 11 and came out at 12:30. Take the bus back to the hotel, have a good lunch, and rush to the East Railway Station to take the bus.
Arrive at Mangshi at 5:05 p.m., and buy a ticket to Lincang on January 1 at the station as soon as you get off the train. The fare is 173 yuan per person. Seeing that the side of the station is more lively and the bus is convenient, I found a hotel next to the station to stay. Then take bus No. 6 and run back and forth to see the appearance of the city. At 6:30, the sun fell from the horizon, and at 7:00, it was completely dark.
The next day (December 30th), the morning was cloudy, we took a taxi to the "Golden Summit", and the sun came out after 10 o'clock, and the sky became clear after a while. The entire Jinding Great Buddha Temple is golden and shining, which is really beautiful. The Golden Dome is built on the mountain, half-price tickets: 20 yuan/person. This scenic spot is a must-see for tour groups, and there are also many individual tourists. The sculptures here are dazzling, realistic in shape and bright in color. The pagoda is 76 meters high and 50 meters in diameter. Taking off your shoes and walking around inside, it feels like visiting a craft museum. After getting out of the tower, I heard the tour guide say that you have to go around the tower three times clockwise, you can have a panoramic view of Mangshi city on the landscape corridor, and you can also see the newly built Dayin Pagoda on the mountain in the distance. A large gong is hung, and visitors rubbed their palms against the raised part in the center, making a low-pitched roar that lasted for a long time. It is said that the night view of Jinding is also very beautiful.
Come out of Jinding, take a taxi to visit Menghan Naxi Zhenqiyuan, half price of tickets: 20 yuan/person. This is also a very worthwhile place, a 4A-level scenic spot. The various jade raw materials displayed inside come from all over the world, and the trees and tree fossils displayed are explained and identified by knowledgeable tourists. Only then do we know that they are priceless and amazing, and there are a large number of other precious collections. I asked the staff how the bullet casings were sold, but he gave me two different bullet casings. The park is large, the ancient tropical plants are beautiful, and the peacocks are scattered here.
In the afternoon, come out of the rare garden and take the bus to the Bodhi Temple. This is a temple with a long history and a stilted building. Rare things are more expensive. Walk out of the temple and walk for a few minutes to see the famous "Shubao Pagoda". These two scenic spots are on the side of the road and no tickets are required. However, the surrounding area of the Shubao Pagoda is under construction. It is hard to say whether it will charge tickets in the future. . In the evening, stroll to the food street. When I was in Tengchong, I found that none of their restaurants had doors, and they were wide open. Here, the dining tables and chairs are all arranged in the open air, and the business is booming. The common people also sit outside to eat, and spend the summer. Eat cold drinks, eat hot pot, eat anything; wear sweaters, sweaters, whatever. We ordered a few local snacks to taste the local flavors. At this time (6 o'clock) it is estimated that the temperature is around 23 degrees, while the temperature in Nantong is about 3 degrees at this time.
On December 31, it was cloudy again in the morning and turned sunny after 10 o'clock. We take the special bus to Peacock Valley, the ticket is 5 yuan/person. This is a privately developed scenic spot that has just opened for a year and is built among the mountains. The adult ticket is 98 yuan, and the discount ticket for the 60-69-year-old is 78 yuan. The two girls who went with us on the same bus, they had previously snatched tickets from the Internet for 49 yuan. It happened that two of their partners did not come. Just give it to us, (Note: December 31st is the last day this ticket is valid). Many scenic spots and facilities in the park are still under construction. We played the glass tower on the top of the mountain, the big garden, the ice and snow world, and the more exciting long-distance downhill slide (I was only allowed to slide after signing. At first, I was afraid of losing control of the speed, so I didn’t Dare to enter), the wishing tree (the shape is like a peacock, so it is also called the peacock tree). The various scenic spots are scattered, the roads are steep and dangerous, and tourists are not allowed to leave. They are all picked up by high-powered tourist trains. Tickets include this fare, so it seems expensive. Basically it's worth the trip.
On January 1st, cloudy and sunny, at 11:00, the minibus departed for Lincang. There is no direct eastward road in Mangshi. To Lincang, the straight-line distance is less than 180 kilometers, but it has to go north, cross Longling County, and turn southeast when it is close to Baoshan. It turns a 130-degree angle, with a total mileage of 409 kilometers. , the ticket price is 173 yuan/person. There are two drivers in the car, and we sit in the first row on the right side of the driver, chatting with the driver from time to time. This is a provincial road, built around the mountain, the mountain road is rugged, the road is narrow, and the speed limit for cars is 60. We arrived in Lincang at 8:00 p.m. Two days ago, we booked the train ticket from Lincang to Jinghong at 7:40 a.m. on January 2 on the Internet. Fortunately, the station where we got off is diagonally opposite to the station where we will depart tomorrow. Hurry up to pick up the tickets , and stay nearby for one night.
On January 2, at 7:30 in the morning, the sky was still dark before dawn. At 7:40, when the car set off, the east was spit out white, and the time difference was 1.5 hours later than Nantong. There were two drivers again, and we sat in the first row on the right. I asked the driver how many hours it would take to drive, and the driver said 11 hours. Just after passing a traffic light, a young couple shouted to stop. It turned out that they heard the conversation between me and the driver and decided not to go. The ticket is 167 yuan/person, 436 kilometers, called National Highway 214, and the road conditions are exactly the same as yesterday's provincial road. The mountains seem to be higher, and the road seems to be more difficult to walk. There is a small table in front of our seats, on which my map and video camera are placed. Every time I walk a certain distance, I use the Gaode map to send a mobile phone location to my son. He watches our itinerary on the computer. At 10:40, the steering wheel power assist system of the car was broken, and I turned into a roadside car repair shop. The repair owner drove his car three times to the town 3 kilometers away to buy parts for replacement, and finally repaired it after 3 hours of tossing. I arrived in Jinghong at 8:40 in the evening, and I walked more than 400 kilometers for a full 13 hours. The driver said that he has been running this route for 8 years, and he arrived at 11 o'clock at the latest, because the car is easy to break down and the road is easy to be blocked. A traffic accident, or rain washes down some earth and rocks, it will be blocked for a long time.
We stayed at the transportation hotel recommended by the driver, 90 yuan/day.
On January 3, it was cloudy in the morning and turned sunny at 10 o'clock. We took the bus to Damanting Park, and the half-price ticket was 20 yuan/person. This was originally the palace and garden of the Dai King. It is a 4A-level scenic spot with good scenery and many tourists. This park has elephant performances every afternoon. It is said that it is not inferior to the "Wild Elephant Valley". There is a bonfire party at night, and additional tickets are required. Because we plan to go to Gaozhuang in the afternoon, we can't come here in the afternoon. I left the park at noon, and walked to the splashing water square with two Sichuanese, because the local tour group's various one-day tours were designated to gather here to get on the bus.
Go to Gaozhuang in the afternoon, the bus in the city is 1 yuan, and there are many buses. The ticket to Kunming from Jinghong Bus Station where we live is 256 yuan, the ticket from Gaozhuang Bus Station is 236 yuan, the ticket from Ctrip is 198 yuan, and the ticket sold by black cars is 160 yuan. We booked tickets from Ctrip, and the car at 8:30 am on January 6th asked the boss to reserve the first row of seats for us and send a car to the hotel to pick us up. Once this is done, you can play with confidence.
"Gaozhuang Xishuangjing" is near the Lancang River, with picturesque scenery and the impression of the southern country. The night market is large in scale, and many small commodities come from Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia and other places, and there are many tourists. Let's have a good meal first, and then enjoy the scenery. However, the boat trip on the Lancang River received many negative reviews, and we did not participate.
On January 4, it was cloudy in the morning and cloudless after 11 o'clock. At the bus station where we lived, we bought a ticket to the "Tropical Rainforest Botanical Garden of the Chinese Academy of Sciences" at a price of 21 yuan per person. This botanical garden is a must-see for tour groups, 5A-level scenic spots, half-price tickets, 40 yuan/person, and 50 yuan/person for scenic tour buses (this is too expensive). The ticket price includes the east and west districts, while the tour bus price is 50 yuan each for the east and west districts. Most people choose to only play the West End. Although there are many botanical gardens in Xishuangbanna, the Botanical Garden of the Chinese Academy of Sciences is the most representative. You can play in it for a day. We followed the tour guide of other people's tour group. This is a Dai woman who is knowledgeable in botany and understands everything. If you don't listen to her explanation and demonstration, you will definitely be with some dynamic people. Plants pass by.
After returning to Jinghong Station, I found out that to go to the Dai Nationality Garden, you have to take a bus at Banna Station. So I took the bus to Bangna Station to buy tickets for the next day, but was told that they only sell tickets for the day. At this station, there are so many routes to various tourist attractions, ranging from a dozen kilometers to two hundred kilometers, so why join a tour group?
On January 5, the weather was the same as yesterday. We took a bus to the Dai Nationality Park at Banna Station, and the ticket was 10 yuan per person. Half-price tickets: 30 yuan/person, 4A-level scenic spots. This time we didn't buy tickets for the scenic spot, so we decided to go for a walk. There are 5 villages in it, and the total area is quite large. Walking is to wear from the inside, and driving is to go around from the outside, and the effect is very different. In an authentic Dai village, farmers sell their own fruits at their doorsteps, which are very cheap. A lot of bananas cost 5 yuan. We bought plantains, dried mangoes, dried papayas, etc. Maybe the innermost stockade is cheaper, but I didn't go there because I couldn't walk. Watch the water-splashing performance in the square, and then go to the theater to watch the song and dance performance. These performances are free of charge, the dance quality is high, and the audience is about 400 people.
On the streets of Jinghong and at the entrance of the park, there are salesmen everywhere. When they saw us, they asked, "Uncle and aunt, are you here to buy a house?". The house price has risen from an average price of three or four thousand four years ago to 10,000 now. On the road, in the car, and in the store, I met permanent residents from other places. The largest number are from Sichuan, followed by people from the Northeast. There are people from all over the country. They either bought a house here or rented a house here. . Retired people from all over the world come here to enjoy the climate, scenery and prices here. The young people in the mountains of Yunnan went to various parts of the motherland to seek a living.
In the early morning of January 6, I returned to Kunming from Jinghong, a one-day drive. On the afternoon of January 7, I went to the airport and returned to Shanghai.
Summarize
During this trip, we visited the southwestern part of Yunnan. It was sunny and there was no wind. We traveled to avoid the cold, so we went where it was warmer. The common climate characteristics of Tengchong, Mangshi, Lincang, and Jinghong are that it is cold in the morning and hot in the afternoon. I wear a lot when I go out in the morning, and then take it off while playing, so I must bring a bag. Second, the scenery is on the road, take more cars, and appreciate the customs and customs that are completely different from those in East China. In the East China Plain, roads are gridded. So I once wanted to take rural buses from Tengchong to Jinghong along the border, and then I realized that this idea was too idealistic and impossible to realize in this life.
Yunnan is the province with the largest number of ethnic minorities. Why? Because more than 94% of Yunnan is mountainous, the ancestors who were blocked by mountains and had no traffic, formed a family of their own. In modern times, there were some roads, but due to terrain constraints, most of these roads were north-south. The basic feature is a tree-like structure, with branches and twigs branching out from the main trunk. There are mountains between the treetops and the treetops. If you want to go there, you have to go back to the trunk first. In the provinces of East China, it is unheard of to take a civil aviation plane from a city or county to the provincial capital, but in Yunnan, this has become the norm. There are many airports in Yunnan, not only in prefecture-level cities, but also in county-level cities, with frequent flights. For example, Tengchong is a county, and there are at least 14 flights to Kunming every day, and there are also eight provincial capital cities in other places. The problem is that these routes are also distributed in a tree shape. From one city and county to another, you have to fly back to Kunming first, and then change another route. Therefore, if you travel with a group in Yunnan, you also run a line from Kunming, return to Kunming after running, and then run another line from Kunming, and you cannot run a circular line.
We went from Tengchong to Mangshi, then to Lincang, and then to Jinghong. There was no bus on the way, only minibuses, rural buses, agricultural vehicles, and cattle. There is not a battery car or bicycle to be seen along the way, but there are many motorcycles. It should be noted that the former is a provincial road and the latter is a national road! According to the driver, this is considered a very good highway in Yunnan. He said that there are many people traveling like you on this road. I am very puzzled. There is only one bus from Mangshi to Lincang every day, and from Lincang to Jinghong every day. There is only one bus, which is fully loaded with 34 people, so there are so many exploratory travelers. From Mangshi to Jinghong, we wasted 2 days on the road. Although the mountain scenery is beautiful, it will make us tired after seeing too much. There is a flight from Lincang to Jinghong every day, which is not very meaningful, and it is also a short distance. Why? Because of the mountains.
Tengchong is a place where tourists flock to. There are also many people who go to Ruili, but according to the analysis of online guides, the price/performance ratio of several major attractions in Ruili is too low. Mangshi was chosen because its scenic spots are concentrated in the urban area and its surrounding areas, which is convenient for individual tourists to visit. There are also several scenic spots in Lincang, but they are all scattered in various counties. For example, the only primitive tribe in China that has been preserved to this day, a Wa village, is 170 kilometers away from Lincang. sky.
The Wild Elephant Valley in Jinghong can be used as an option if you have time. It is said that it is free for those over 60 years old. Most of the tourist maps are for going, but I don't think its performance will surpass the performance of the Shanghai Wild Animal Park. As for the Jinuo Shanzhai, it is a poverty alleviation project. Tickets are 160 yuan, and there is no discount for those over 1 meter with any certificate. Is it fun? Read the guide yourself. There is also a "Great Buddha Temple". I have read the promotional materials, but it is not as powerful as Wuxi Lingshan. We took the No. 2 bus in the city and went to its gate to have a look. It was relatively deserted and we didn't go in.
People from all over the country recommend chartered car tours to us. If I have four or five people coming to play, I may charter a car. The price of a car or a seven-passenger commercial vehicle is 200 yuan per day. The driver will take you to the scenic spot, and then wait for you to come out before going to the next one. Station, the daily driving does not exceed 150 kilometers, and the service time does not exceed 9 hours. If we don't delay on the road for 2 days, the original plan is to play Stone Forest on January 6. To get to Stone Forest, we need to take a bus from Kunming East Bus Station, about 85 kilometers, and the ticket is 34 yuan per person.
In the next year, we plan to go to Yunnan again and play Dali, Lijiang, and Shangri-La on the northern line.
In the cities and counties in the south of Yunnan, there are many old people who have lived long-term from outside, and there are many from Nantong. The oxygen content in the air here reaches the extreme value. There are no factories and no pollution. Playing and shopping, this is called experiencing slow life. On January 5, 2019, the trains to Lijiang and Yuxi were opened to traffic at the same time, and the railways from Kunming to Laos and Kunming to Myanmar are under construction. However, I chatted with the developer of the expressway on the long-distance bus and learned that there is no plan to build the east-west expressway in southern Yunnan.
If Xu Xiake only travels but does not write, there will be no Xu Xiake. When we travel, we take a lot of videos and photos with video cameras and mobile phones, and when we get home, we quickly import them into the computer to make a feature film. Then take out all the reserved train tickets, air tickets, entrance tickets, and accommodation invoices, and write them into the travel notes. I like manual-type travel notes, that is, the information is detailed, and the scenery does not need too much ink to render the scenery. People can refer to how to go, how to Play.
2019-1-21