From July 10 to 25, 2021, a wish for many years has been fulfilled - driving into Tibet, the southern line of the Sichuan-Tibet line (318 National Highway Chengdu to Lhasa) entering the Qinghai-Tibet line (109 National Highway Lhasa to Golmud) and exiting. The journey is generally smooth, and I have some impressions, which will be recorded for reference by friends.
About high anti. This is probably the primary concern of those who want to go this route. If you follow the principle of going high (altitude) and staying low (altitude), and keep low-intensity activities, you will generally not have a big reaction. There are 4 of us in one car, two of them are in their 60s and two are in their 50s, with an average age of 61, and 2 of them have high blood pressure (which can be controlled by taking medicine). People have mild reactions, mainly due to some not-so-severe headaches or poor sleep (sometimes because of being too tired, such as climbing the five-color sea and milk sea in Aden), it is much better to inhale some oxygen and drink some glucose water. After passing through Kangding, they were also pre-administered some medicine, which I think is effective. I'm not a doctor, so I won't say what kind of medicine it is (not Rhodiola, Suda Yang or something). Passing through Litang, Lhasa, Namtso, Nagqu, Amdo, Tuotuo River, Hoh Xil, and Tanggula Mountains, there is no major discomfort. Of course, everyone's physique is different. If you are really high-reverse, the only best way is to retreat to low-altitude areas, even if you go back.
About road conditions. Both the Sichuan-Tibet line and the Qinghai-Tibet line are national highways, and the basic condition of the roadbed is not bad. The Sichuan-Tibet line is generally better than the Qinghai-Tibet line. From Nyingchi to Lhasa, and from Lhasa to Dangxiong are all high-speed, and there is no money. But the high-speed service facilities from Lhasa to Damxung have not been repaired, and it is not convenient to go to the toilet (you know). The Qinghai-Tibet line is also painted black, mainly because there are too many large trucks that crush the road surface, so the bumps are particularly severe, and they often "fly". 90% of the road surface from Nagqu to Golmud is full of potholes. The road is long, more than 820 kilometers. Due to the average accommodation conditions in the Tuotuo River on the way, most people usually run down for fifteen or sixteen hours at a stretch. After leaving Batang, Sichuan, the road surface deteriorated, and then crossed the Jinsha River and entered Mangkang, Tibet. Although the roadbed is so wide, there is a long section of it that is not asphalt, but the common earth and stone road that has not been painted black during maintenance. Too much dust. There is no particularly bad road, so I think ordinary cars can run this line. The so-called Haitonggou and Tongmai natural danger sections are now tunnels and culverts (with a temporary iron bridge), so the passability is good.
About driving. It's better to be familiar with driving skills. The technology here mainly refers to the judgment and processing ability on the go. Due to the many winding mountain roads and the large number of vehicles, overtaking and the like need to be predicted as accurately as possible and dealt with decisively. Some road sections, such as going straight along the Jinsha River after leaving Batang, although the road is okay, it also makes people feel nervous. There are guardrails in other places on this road, but there are no guardrails at some sharp turns near the river (I don’t know if it is the exit) What to consider), if the fast turn is not handled well, there is a danger of falling into the river. I would like to praise the People's Liberation Army. I have encountered convoys of military vehicles many times on the way. As long as they see in the rearview mirror that you are about to overtake, they will turn on the right turn signal to slow down and give way. But you have to be careful with local trucks and buses, they will not give way to the speed of the car, if you have the ability, you should overtake.
About traffic jams. Although it is July, we haven't encountered mudslides and rolling stones blocking the road due to the rainy season. Good luck. There were two major traffic jams, one was at the Mangkang Public Security Checkpoint in Tibet after crossing the Jinsha River, and the traffic jam lasted for nearly 2 hours. But I think it would be better if inspections improved and some traffic jams improved. When we drove to the checkpoint, we realized that everyone except the driver had to get out of the car and pass through another checkpoint, so the driver had to wait for someone after passing the checkpoint. Wouldn't it be more efficient to notify other people to get off the car one or two hundred meters in advance? Another traffic jam point is that there is a narrow road section between Bomi and Tongmai, where only one car can pass, and there is no one directing it. If the first car does not take the lead with the oncoming car, the one behind will move. It didn't move, and it was stuck here for about 2 hours. I can't solve the problem here for a while. In addition, when leaving Damxung County to go to Nagqu, there was a car accident ahead, which was blocked for several kilometers and half an hour, and there was also hail. The traffic jams in other places are mainly at some observation decks. Everyone is crowded together, but there is no problem of long-term traffic jams.
About refueling. Really encounter a traffic jam, not much oil to worry about. Refueling requires three certificates (ID card, driving license, driver's license) complete, and take a photo for authentication. Gas stations along the way, such as Zuogong and Basu, are a little more expensive. In particular, before leaving Kangding, I must fill up the gas. At that time, I saw that there were many cars at the gas station, and the map showed that there was a gas station in front of me, so I went forward, so..., I can only run more than ten kilometers when I ran to the gas meter to call the police. I finally found a gas station (who said you don’t have to worry about refueling on Highway 318?), to be honest, there are not as many gas stations in Kangding out of the city as there are in some counties behind. Some private gas stations. At the "Everest Gas Station" in Linzhi, the young lady gave me two bottles of pure water after refueling. Seeing that there were two people in the back seat of the car, she turned around and brought two more bottles. Not for the two bottles of water, but for the service attitude.
About attractions. We took the southern line of the Sichuan-Tibet line, and turned back to Daocheng Yading on the way. It should be said that the main scenery is on the road. Tell me about the fees. ▲ Luding Bridge. Basically everyone knows its story. It costs 10 yuan to scan the QR code to buy a ticket and experience it back and forth. Now I am still walking on the wooden board, thinking how difficult it was for the Red Army to climb the iron chain. However, the streets in Luding County are narrow and there are many one-way streets, making it difficult to park. ▲Kangding Mugecuo. The tour guide said that luck was good, the sky was full of dark clouds in the morning, and there was still light rain when we went up the mountain. When we arrived at the scenic spot, the sky was blue and white, and when we left, the blue sky ran or slipped away. It’s all winding mountain roads up there, and I won’t have a chance to soak my feet in Omatuo if I come back a little late (the staff here get off work at 4:30). ▲Muya Holy Land. It is said that the development time is not long, but it is still worth a look. The grassland and the top of Gongga Mountain can be seen in the distance after going up the mountain, and the blue sky and white clouds are beautiful (the driver said that he has not encountered such good weather in more than 20 days, good luck). The "318 must drive in this life" signboard for people to check in is on the side of the road in front of the gate of the scenic spot (there is also Litang gate). Although Xinduqiao is a photography paradise, but the season is not right, drifting by. ▲Aden. One does not regret it, but goes to a place with more regrets. From the gate of the scenic spot to the gate of the real Yading scenic spot, it is more than 30 kilometers of Provincial Highway 216. You have to take a shuttle bus, which takes nearly an hour one way, and you pay 120 yuan for this journey. This is a provincial highway paid for by taxpayers, not a road in the scenic area. No matter the road, self-driving is no problem at all, but you have to be ferried. After arriving at the scenic spot, you need to walk for a while to change to a battery car. Battery tickets are divided into one-way and round-trip tickets. The latter is 20 yuan cheaper than buying a round-trip ticket. I asked the conductor if there are any scenic spots that must be got off during the itinerary of the battery car? If there is no one, I will buy a round trip, and she said it depends on you. To be honest, when you climb to the two "seas" and come back tired like a dead dog, and you don't have enough time to return, taking a battery car is your only choice, and there is no scenery along the way. If you want to sprint to the two "seas" behind, I suggest you ride a horse after going to Luorong Cattle Farm by battery car. It costs 300 yuan per person one way, because the mountain climbing trip behind is a bit painful. If you have seen Jiuzhaigou and Namtso, there is no need to see these two "seas", a place with low cost performance. ▲Laigu Glacier and Ranwu Lake. I didn't spend money here, because after entering, I saw that the road to the ancient glacier was blocked by farmers and herdsmen with a wooden stick, and it cost 30 yuan per person, which reminds me of the "three chaos" of road governance in the past. Along this road, you can see the lower lake of Ranwu Lake, but now the season is not right, the snow on the snow mountain has melted, and all you see is muddy water. The "good news" is that a gate to enter the scenic spot has stood tall and is waiting for renovation, and the fee is just around the corner. The road inside is narrow, and the possibility of battery car ferrying is relatively high. Not far from Ranwu Lake Town is Shanghu Lake, where the scenery in the morning is not bad, free of charge. ▲Yamdrok Yongcuo. Tickets are sold on the platform overlooking Yamdrok Yongcuo on the top of the mountain, 60 yuan per person. It kindly reminds passing vehicles to buy tickets consciously. In fact, no one asks you for tickets when you drive all the way to the lake. On the day I went, the clouds were thick, and the scenery was neither beautiful nor bad. ▲ Namtso. On the road from Dangxiong to Namtso, there was heavy wind and rain, and the top of the mountain (a section of Nyainqentanglha Mountain) was even worse. My family couldn't say it, and I couldn't see anything. I said it's not easy to come here, don't leave any regrets, let it go. After going down the mountain, there was no wind and rain. When we arrived at the entrance of the scenic spot, the sky was still covered by thick clouds, with only a little blue sky faintly visible in the gaps in the clouds. Seeing that the car in front was still running wildly all the way, so I followed it and ran towards Bangor until I ran wild on the lakeside and beach at the northeast end of Namtso. The scenery was not beautiful, and there were a lot of mosquitoes. At this time, the clouds cleared and the fog cleared. Entering the scenic area, I took a ferry to the Namtso Lake, the blue sky, white clouds and seagulls, and the Nyainqentanglha Mountain in the distance, which is very beautiful. It's just, can't we fix the parking lot inside? Do you have to take a ferry (the ferry fare is 110 yuan per person)? But what makes you even more unexpected is that the newly built Namtso ticket office is getting closer and closer to Damxung County. Maybe it will take two ferry trips to get to the core scenic spot in the future. ▲Chaka Salt Lake. I went there once the year before last, but I can't figure it out if I go again this year. The last time I went, I saw the mirror of the sky. After driving to the parking lot, I bought a ticket and took a small train to the center of the scenic spot. Now go, the gate of the scenic spot is set up far outside, and all you see and hear are telling you where to eat, and finally find a sign saying that the ticket sales are on the second floor. When you get to the second floor, you get dizzy again. Sky Mirror and Sky One sell tickets at different counters. The shuttle bus buys tickets at another counter (30 yuan per person), and there is also a counter selling package tickets. I asked the staff what was the difference between the two attractions, and she said she didn't know either. Well, bought a Sky One. Turning around, the biggest impression is that the small train here is no longer the original jingling taste, but a battery car strung together. There are more small attractions to play, and the food and accommodation are complete. It is no problem to stay in it for a day if you have time. However, the mirror of the sky, which was not originally ferried, will now be ferried. Other ticket-selling attractions along the way are not in-depth. In short, the great rivers and mountains of the motherland are worth seeing. It’s just that almost any scenic spot has to be ferried now (it’s estimated that it’s really inconvenient to develop the ferry site, so this kind of heart will be extinguished). Nowadays, if you don’t take the ferry, you are ashamed to call yourself a tourist attraction. Even if the elderly are exempted from tickets, you can't avoid or discount the tickets for the shuttle bus (what about the soldiers? I didn't ask). I think it is impossible to see the clouds in the morning and the stars and the moon in the lake in the evening when I was in a certain lake. Has the quality of tourism improved?
about life. Some people worry that if they run this route, they will not get used to Tibetan food. Don’t worry, there are Sichuan and Chongqing restaurants everywhere, unless you avoid them. Living in Ranwu Lake basically does not sell breakfast. In terms of exit, there are only dry toilets along the way, and the dry toilets on Tanggula Mountain have become "water toilets", remember.
About accommodation. In terms of income, you can only choose economical or comfortable, so don't talk about others. I used Ctrip to book the rooms along the way. If you read the reviews carefully before booking, you are generally satisfied, and the price/performance ratio is not bad (the prices of the stores you checked before going out have all increased after you go out). Recommend a few based on personal experience, no advertising, just for friends to choose. The Daocheng Genie Window Theme Hotel in Shangri-La Town has a restaurant. Its self-operated yak casserole is good. The police station and court are next door. Don’t fight there; Linzhi Shell Hotel, the family’s smile can melt you, away from the famous The main store of Yanbang Junwang Mansion is not far away; Naqu Sanyi Hotel (there is only Sanyi Business Hotel in a certain degree, which is not the same thing), the facilities are very good, it is comfortable, and the price is reasonable (better than hotels in Lhasa with the same price) There are too many), the key is that the whole hotel provides oxygen supply, and those with high reaction rate can be the first choice. The parking lot is large. I didn’t eat the free breakfast provided by the other house because I was on my way early in the morning. I can’t comment, but the one on the second floor of his house The halal restaurant is really great, the beef and mutton are delicious and the portions are generous. If you have ever returned to Baoji (I bypassed the big cities like Xining and Xi’an on my return trip, it took too much time to go in and out of the city), I recommend Baoji Intercity Hotel, which is comparable to Sanyi Hotel in Naqu, and the breakfast is better than many four- and five-star hotels. The hotel is strong, and there is a free supper at 9 pm.
About some rumors. Some people say that children in Tibetan areas will ask you for things. I have no personal experience. Although they are at home during the summer vacation, they can’t see anyone when passing through most Tibetan villages. Some people say that some road sections need to take speed limit strips. This is an old-fashioned thing. Now it is all speed measurement in intervals, and the solution is simple. Drive normally.
The most physical test along the way is from Naqu to Golmud, so, while your physical strength is still good, let’s end the wish of running the Sichuan-in-qing-out line. If you don’t really want to see Hoh Xil and the majestic Kunlun, don’t run the Qinghai-Tibet line. You can check the car back in Lhasa after seeing Namtso, and return by yourself by plane or train, or you can take the northern line of the 317 National Highway Sichuan-Tibet Line. .