Mysterious Tour of Guizhou 1. Reverie on the Viability of Thousands of Miao Villages in Xijiang

Mysterious Tour of Guizhou 1. Reverie on the Viability of Thousands of Miao Villages in Xijiang

On February 12, 2013, on the third day of the Lunar New Year, I flew to Guiyang in the mist of the sky, took a bus to Kaili City in the cold spring wind, and then took a taxi to Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village.

The taxi walked through a section of the avenue in Kaili City, and soon entered the narrow mountain road marked "15 kilometers from Qianhu Miao Village" marked by a sign. A canyon meanders, with mountains and walls on both sides, and a small stream that flows from time to time lies quietly in the deep ditch. The taxi is driving at the foot of the mountain on the right, zigzags forward, and the climbing slope is not big. It is walking around the foot of Leishan Mountain and heading for the deep valley deep in the mountain. The modern scene of the modern city outside the car is gradually lost in the data Thousands of years behind.

The 15-kilometer drive of a modern car brings the thoughts of tourists and explorers back to the world of ancient human society. If you are skeptical about the new technology that goes back in time, you might as well go through the deep and long canyon of Qianhu Miao Village. Here will tell you everything.

It's here. Now it has become the gate of the scenic spot. The newly built gate is an imitation of the ancient Miao village gate. The open earth dam is full of modern gasoline-burning cars. The ancient historical scene and modern humanistic scene are like a hard connection between Yin and Yang. Buy a ticket (100 yuan/person) to get started, and then buy a ticket to take a scenic car (5 yuan/person, now it is 20 yuan/person) and walk a few kilometers before arriving at the small gate of Qianhu Miao Village.

This thousand-household Miao Village! At the foot of the left mountain, above the valley, there is a street that stretches for several miles. There are old and new houses on both sides of the street. The new ones imitate the old ones in every possible way. The third floor, with the appearance of Miao Village, attracts modern people from outside. Walking on Miao Street, you can see the houses of the Miao people overlapping on the steep hillsides on both sides.

From the narrow stone-paved alleyway on the left side of the street house, we walked towards the Miao village on the hillside. The steep mountain village road had to be full of energy. On the layered slope section, there are small paths leading to the Miaojia buildings on both sides. Such a steep hill! The houses of the Miao family were built from house to house. Standing in the gap between the Miao Village in the middle of the mountain and looking towards the opposite mountain, on the opposite hillside (to the right of Miao Street) there are still many piles of Miao houses standing and covering, row upon row, magnificent momentum, this mountain is facing the mountain, where is it? Can it still be the face of the mountain? It is clearly a huge mountain city formed by occupying two mountains with a stream (named Xijiang) sandwiched between them!

The Miao buildings in Miao Village are mainly wooden stilted buildings, with a bucket-shaped roof structure. There are two types of stilted buildings on flat ground and sloping stilted buildings, which are generally three-story four-story three-room or five-story four-room structures. The bottom layer is used to store production tools, keep poultry and livestock, store fertilizer or use it as a toilet. The second floor is used as the living room, main room, bedroom and kitchen. On the outside of the main room, there is a unique "beauty leaning", which is called "step breath" in Miao language. It is mainly used for enjoying the shade, embroidery and rest, which is a major feature of Miao architecture. The third layer is mainly used to store production and living materials such as grain and feed.

I like the harvested rice field under the Diaojiaolou

The scenes of thousands of Miao villages flashed in the Guizhou advertisements before the daily CCTV news broadcast, can be truly seen at this moment. "Drunken Beauty Guizhou" promotes thousands of Miao villages in order to attract tourists and develop the tourism industry. At this time, what the author thought of was not her "drunk beauty", but a revisit of her thoughts for thousands of years.

In the museum of Qianhu Miao Village, at the end of Miao Street, from the legend of Chi You to the textual introduction engraved on the rock wall, we know that there are more than 1,200 houses and more than 5,000 people in Qianhu Miao Village. Just think about it, in the thousands of years of historical changes, why can the Miao compatriots reproduce so endlessly in this deep mountain valley with very little arable land? There is no advanced farming civilization, let alone the shocking horn of modernization, but a densely populated ethnic group similar to urbanization can be derived among wild mountains. What kind of force is driving it?

Miao costumes in the Miao Museum

From the huge Miao village of thousands of households standing on the mountain, one can't help but think of the greatest human beings. Human beings are the species with the strongest survivability among all things in the world. No animal or plant can match the survivability of human beings. Work at sunrise, rest at sunset, and live endlessly. When tasting the locally produced sausages, bacon, Miaojia sour soup fish, and snow gastrodia, it has to be said that all animals and plants are funeral objects serving people.

On the steep bank of the creek, several square meters of tender green cabbage were found. Although this place has become a tourist attraction, the Miao people still do not forget to cherish the vitality brought by every inch of land. The neat rice piles in the rice fields and the floating red duckweed show that the seedlings still retain the roots of the farming society! Food stalls all over the street sell stinky tofu and glutinous rice cakes. It can be seen that the Miao people can't forget to grow soybeans and rice on the increasingly scarce land...

The strongest hurricane that modernization has brought upon thousands of Miao villages is the Miao compatriots' pursuit of commercial profits.

Miao folks, especially those near the street, every family has an inn, and the room I lived in that night (February 12) was the narrowest standard room I have lived in since I traveled all over the country for more than ten years, and it even had the most bathrooms. The room is 10 square meters. There is nothing in the room except two beds. The distance between the beds is only 10 centimeters. When you sleep, your head is facing the bathroom. The smell is very uncomfortable... But after thinking about it, on this steep hillside, How much the lovely Miao family cherish every inch of land to accommodate so many people!

Miao people, every family is dealing in local specialties and related products, and the young ones drive cars and vans to see and receive guests. Even children can do business. The author was looking for the residence of the Miao headman in the middle of the mountain. I asked two five or six-year-old boys who were playing. The little boy said, "You go to my house, and I will take you there."

There is also the barbecue city in the Miao Village, filled with pungent smoke, overflowing sewage, loud music and hawking, and you will always feel that the commercial hustle and bustle of the early days of Shenzhen, the frontier of reform and opening up, is repeating here.

However, this tornado does not seem to wash away the pure love that has been born for thousands of years. In the first and second shops on Miao Street, the price of bacon and sausages sold is lower than that of the shops going deeper. It is said that it is easier to win leading business opportunities because they are in a conspicuous place, but they would rather make less profit. After buying their things, they thanked them repeatedly. Some of the sellers here are elderly people who do not receive formal training in commercial sales, but their manners and expressions are so modern and contain ancient innocence.

Miaojia sour soup fish, said it is only sour and not spicy, but the more you eat, the more spicy it becomes, tears and nose flow together...

In the early morning of the next day, walking in the rainy Miao village, the cold wind was biting, and I was quietly dreaming... The historical process of human beings is always adding oil and vinegar to survival. In today's era, we are always singing the battle song of urbanization, transformation and upgrading. Looking at the past and today of Qianhu Miao Village, we may get the following enlightenment: urbanization is not just "urbanization" today, the ancestors have long been It began to "melt" among the mountains. Thousands of Miao villages have been upgraded to tourist attractions. Does it mean that all the deep mountains must become scenic spots to have a future? !

A lot of urbanization is occupying fertile land and building houses and buildings blindly, as if to keep great human beings as animals. Why not learn from Qianhu Miao Village and start from their own reality?

There are many vast mountainous areas in China, and it is impossible for all of them to become outstanding scenic spots. Shouldn't we learn from the experience of Qianhu Miao Village in the past?

(2262)