Nanjing-Wutai Mountain-Datong 5-day pilgrimage self-driving travel book

I have wanted to go to Wutai Mountain for a long time. As early as six or seven years ago, I envied someone who went to Wutai Mountain with Master, and the journey lasted more than a month. However, from work to family affairs, such willfulness is not allowed. I finally made an appointment for a 20-year self-driving plan in 2019, but was interrupted by the epidemic again. After talking about it for another two years, seeing the hot weather, I wanted to plan a trip in August, and the work arrangements piled up again. Well, don't wait anymore, when late July comes, I decided to come and leave. The moment I was determined, I firmly felt the call of the Bodhisattva in my heart.

Although the schedule is only five days, the distance is 2,700 kilometers, so let’s go to the places you want to go the most, and leave the rest to think about it, maybe the aftertaste will be endless.

When I was about to leave, I saw this announcement, only to realize that there were no appointments for the car within three days. So in the early morning of the 21st, I observed exactly zero o'clock, and made an appointment for the vehicle entry quota on the 23rd, yay!

I feel that I have always been lucky. I found a lovely young lady on Douyin who opened a homestay in Wutai Mountain, two kilometers away from the central scenic spot. She resolutely booked a room in her house, a two-bedroom suite, which happened to be four people. After we talked happily, I brought the salted duck and roast duck that Nanjing people like to taste as a small gift for the young lady.


Departure on the 23rd

At five o'clock in the morning, the sky was already bright. Starting from Nanjing, the two children hung a neck pillow in the back row, covered with a thin blanket, and continued the appointment with Duke Zhou. Originally, I said I would sleep for three hours. I woke up and had breakfast, but I didn’t know that the sleep was too sweet. I didn’t wake up until almost nine o’clock. After breakfast, I continued to whine. Is it because my car is driving too smoothly? The weather is good, no wind, no rain, but half cloudy, neither hot nor sunny, suitable for traveling, the beautiful scenery along the way is all I have with my eyes open.

After lunch, we set off again. After 1,000 kilometers in three sections and 12 hours, we finally saw Mount Wutai!

At this time, I don't know that there is still an hour's journey from the expressway exit to the mountain.

E-tickets can be purchased directly on the official account, which needs to be consistent with the ID card. The reserved vehicles directly scan the license plate and enter the scenic spot. Stop in the parking lot if you don't have an appointment, don't drive towards the entrance, or you will have to queue for a long time and have to return.

Since I entered the scenic spot after six o'clock, of course I have to watch the sunset first. At this time, the sunset in Wutai Mountain is around 7:40. After confirming the location with the hostess, I drove straight to Nanshan Temple and Youguo Temple.

It's really the right choice. Waiting for the sunset slowly in the simple and solemn temple, listening to the resident monks talk about the life in the temple at minus 30 degrees in winter, and there is a lively big dog who keeps wanting to come over and make out .

At this moment, this is the Mount Wutai I want to come to. It is quiet and stable. This moment is the past, present and future.

The road to Youguo Temple has not been fully repaired. The rough gravel road has a big turn and is very steep. The parking space is relatively narrow, especially after sunset and dark. It is more difficult to drive. It is recommended that novices park their cars at Nanshan Temple and walk up. Already, not far away.

After going down the mountain, I went directly to the restaurant recommended by the young lady. It was delicious, and I drank the special big kiln soda, which tasted like old popsicles.

I finally arrived at the B&B after nine o'clock, and there were no parking spaces, so my car was stuck at the gate. I have to get up early to move the car tomorrow morning, so as not to delay the trip of the guests who want to watch the sunrise.

Here, the inn of Miss Sister’s house, let me recommend it with my real name, sincerely do not deceive me!

Tonight, Ann!


24th

At six o'clock in the morning, the sky is fine, the children are sleeping soundly, don't think about the sunrise, go out for a walk with my husband to see the surrounding scenery, and come back to chat with the owner's mother while having breakfast, she is also a devout Layman, tell me that the next time you come to Wutai Mountain, prepare at least 3 days. If you go hiking towards the platform, you must bring down jackets and raincoats. The weather on the mountain changes too quickly. I said yes, next time I don’t bring the children here, I promise to walk towards the platform by myself. Today's itinerary is Xiaochaotai, first go to Dailuoding, and then walk along the road Shuxiang Temple - Tayuan Temple - Wuye Temple - Luohou Temple - Xiantong Temple - Pusading.

The breakfast in the store is delicious, such as pimple soup, millet porridge, and scallion pancakes. I gorged myself, but the children in the south were not interested. After a few mouthfuls, I stopped, and I shouted behind me, bring something to eat, and I was hungry when I turned around. No one paid attention to me and ran away. The shopkeeper made up the gun: What do you bring? It doesn’t matter how old the child is. It’s enough to bring a mother when you go out.


Hand drawn a simple map

Don’t underestimate the peak season of Wutai Mountain. There will be a traffic jam 300 meters away, and it will take 45 minutes to travel more than one kilometer from the navigation. Stopped and decided to walk to the scenic spot, which turned out to be definitely a wise decision!

Abandoning the car and walking, let us pass by Bishan Temple, and we were attracted by this quaint temple at a glance. I heard the scriptures in the temple were loud and loud. It turned out that there was a vegetarian master doing water and land pujas. The four pujas are expensive and meritorious. Rejoice and praise!

It took about half an hour to walk to the entrance of Dailuoding. It was definitely faster than driving. Seeing the barely moving traffic, I called myself wise. Starting from the road stele of Dazhi Road, seek the way to open wisdom. There are 1080 stone steps, and countless people knock on three steps. Faith is watered with sweat and perseverance. Whether it is cultivating oneself or praying to the gods, it is accumulating good causes, which is worthy of praise.

Not far away, you will pass Shancai Cave. In your twenties, you naturally have yearning and desire for wealth. Seeing him earnestly worshiping each hall, it happened to teach him how to kowtow to the three treasures in a standardized way, as well as the rules and etiquette for entering the hall. Education needs an opportunity. White clothes are not allowed to teach the law, I can only tell him my superficial understanding of good wealth: do not seek ill-gotten gains, do not seek wealth beyond one's basic needs and ability to control. In essence, the wealth you can get in your life is basically destined to match your ability and blessings. To seek wealth, you must believe in the righteous Dharma, and you cannot seek help from heretics. Giving is a shortcut to seeking wealth. . . . . . Babbling on and on, the baby is not impatient. May he listen to a few words. Parents are nothing more than guides. In the future, he will have to rely on himself to practice.


Dailuoding is building a viewing platform at the entrance, and the entrance to the temple is actually from the construction steps, but it does not affect the tourists. In order to meet the royal needs of five sets in one day, five ways of Manjusri are enshrined here, and now tourists also enjoy royal treatment.

While taking pictures, I was suddenly scolded by a monk. After listening carefully, I realized that he misunderstood that he was taking pictures of him. We explained that he was taking pictures of scenery, but he was still angry: There are always tourists who take pictures of Master and send them to Douyin Kuaishou. Most of these tourists xxxx blah blah blah. Master is merciful, isn't it also spreading the Dharma preaching on the Internet? Why bother with bad words, at least the tourists around will be troubled if they hear it.

It was already noon when Dailuo top came down. I originally planned to go to Puhua Temple to have a vegetarian meal. Firstly, there was no car, and secondly, the road was blocked. I must not be able to make it in time. Dikeshi at the foot of the mountain has vegetarian burgers, but I feel that there is no soul in Shanxi eating burgers. , As a result, there is no such shop after passing this village. There are no restaurants along the way until we reach Shuxiang Temple. Fortunately, there are always some snacks in the bag. There are also some stalls selling boiled corn and instant noodles on the side of the road.

Starting from Shuxiang Temple, I won’t go into details from the perspective of tourists. At this time, I feel that I have come to Mount Wutai, and suddenly there are mixed flavors. During the tourist season, Dailuoding is crowded, idlers in Shuxiang Temple stop, Wuye Temple is full of people, the Tayuan Temple is under repair, and the tower and the tower at a glance. tower crane. . . . . Let a cool and cool pilgrimage heart suddenly become irritable and sweaty.

After thinking about it, I felt that since I came to make a pilgrimage and find my original intention, I should take it a little slower. So what catches the eye is the huge bird's nest on the top of the dead tree in front of the White Pagoda, the quiet scripture building hidden behind the Great Manjusri Hall, the occasional wind chimes of Guangren Temple and the golden cobwebs between the corners of the pavilion and the eaves, the mind is calm and cool... We sit In the Shifang Hall of Guangren Temple, although he could not understand the lama's chanting, but there was a gust of wind, the son had a whim, took a water bottle, and drew water from a large fireproof tank. The water was very clear, and then Watering towards the ancient trees in the courtyard one by one.

I believe

mortal me

There is a high probability that you will not know Manjushri Bodhisattva

I also firmly believe

Bodhisattva's compassionate eyes have seen me

After walking through Rahu Temple and Dayuantong Temple, we will reach the last stop, Bodhisattva Top. The child is struggling with sitting on the stairs, and really doesn’t want to walk. Although there are only 108 steps left, it is steep enough by visual inspection. So, he said to him: baby, what are you doing in Mount Wutai? Answer: Seek wisdom. Continued: Well, wisdom is very precious and hard to come by. It must be at the highest point. Even if you climb to a high place, you may not necessarily get great wisdom. Yes, although Bodhisattvas are everywhere in Wutai Mountain, if you stay in a low place, you can only use a little cleverness. The baby looked at me helplessly: "Okay, I'll crawl!"

I don't know if I fooled the baby, or he is cooperating with my mother in good faith! After that, the two children ran up in one go, leaving the old man panting behind.

The first day of the itinerary came to a successful conclusion, and when I returned, it was like stepping on flowers and returning with horseshoes light. At sunset, just find a shop with a lot of people on the side of the road, eat local vegetables, basically don’t step on the pit, and sing local operas on the street, and the shops in the tourist area are full of vinegar from Shanxi, mushroom sauce from Mount Wutai and Liudao The Buddha Beads of the Dragon Subduing Shenmu.

The beauty of Mount Wutai lies in the fact that Buddhism belongs to Buddhism, and business belongs to business, each of which is flourishing.


25th

I wanted to use one day to go to Taiwan. The owner suggested: you have to go to Datong at night. Time is tight. You can choose to go to Dongtai and Beitai. I’m not nervous, but it’s good as it is now, the time is loose, and I’m having fun.) There are also two girls from Nanjing here, so you can fight for the tourist bus in the scenic spot. On Wutai Mountain, the road is really rugged and difficult to drive. For safety, private cars are not allowed to go up the mountain. You can only take a tourist bus in the scenic spot. There are 11 people in a car, but generally about 8 people can start the car, that is to say, we add up. With six people, it's easy to carpool. So, my son dubbed me social cow X syndrome, and I contacted two lovely girls. These two girls rented a car after flying to Taiyuan, and only one of them can drive. I admire this courage. Later, after we broke up in Ying County, they also went to Inner Mongolia, which is a later story.

In the morning, after checking out, I drove to the tourist station to change to a scenic spot car. Before leaving, the lady owner must give me a barrel of authentic Shanxi old mature vinegar and Taiwan mushroom sauce, saying that it is a courtesy. Thank you so much! I said that when I go back to Nanjing, I want to dip the duck in old vinegar and mushroom sauce to taste the taste, the taste of friendship from afar!

In the ancient hall behind Wanghai Temple in Dongtai, worship Wisdom Manjusri, and the sons each offer a butter lamp, let them silently make a wish, and the master's chime is clear and clear.

I pray, may I keep my mind clear, don't be drowsy, and don't suffer from dementia! Master laughed and said: Good!


Dongtai Wanghai Temple:

Monks and tourists resting on the benches in front of Wugou Manjusri Hall in Beitai:

Climbing up to the highest North Terrace is like falling into the sky city suddenly. Suffocating, fascinating! This is the bathing bubble bar used by Wugou Manjusri to cleanse the worldly hearts. A gentle flower cow followed me. I broke off the corn kernels in my hand and gave it to eat. It turned its head and insisted on licking my palm. It was a little itchy. I touched the bridge of its nose. It blinked and turned away slowly.

Along the way, I taught my son to recite over and over again:

嗡 ōng 阿 a ruo ro ba za zha na na's di

嗡 ōng 阿 a ruo ro ba za zha na na's di

嗡 ōng 阿 a ruo ro ba za zha na na's di


When I came down the mountain, it was about 1:00 in the afternoon. I had a simple lunch and was about to leave for the Xuankong Temple, only to find out that there was not enough time. The Xuankong Temple scenic spot closed at 5:30, which was obviously too late. Decisively go to Ying County instead, to pay homage to the greatest wooden pagoda in the world. The combination of gravel line + 205 provincial road, the vehicle drove smoothly and tortuously in the mountains, the speed was not fast, and the mood was pleasant.

You can enter here by purchasing tickets online plus the calculation certificate within 5 days. The closing time is 18:30, and we arrived at 17:00.

Yingxian Wooden Pagoda (also known as Fogong Temple. Sakyamuni Pagoda), built in 1056 AD (the second year of Qingning in Liao Dynasty, that is, the third year of Zhihe in Northern Song Dynasty), is the largest and oldest pure wooden structure pavilion in the world. architecture. There is no iron nail used on the whole tower, and it is all made of wooden components mortise and tenon. There are 59 different forms and hundreds of brackets on the whole tower (the brackets can not only share the weight of the columns, but also play a role in buffering and dispersing external forces), adorning each part of the tower like blossoming lotus flowers. place. The two Buddha tooth relics in Yingxian wooden pagoda, which have been in the world successively, are verified to be the real relics of Sakyamuni Buddha. The above is the official propaganda text, beautiful, you have to experience it yourself.

Entering the pagoda, I feel that the Buddha's cassock is very soft and beautiful, especially the lotus-pink vine pattern around Futian behind him, and the realistic folds feel within reach. The dome in the pagoda is made of thousands of pieces of wood, which is gorgeous and delicate , I guess it all comes from the devout heart of the devotees who have no time to clean up. Watching and worshiping here, the feeling of admiration and intimacy arises spontaneously. Who said that at this moment, it is not the same heart as the worshiper thousands of years ago, and the Taoist fellowship.


Fogong Temple is an independent courtyard. It is behind the wooden pagoda and is connected to the wooden pagoda by a bridge. However, it is relatively dry now and there is no water under the bridge. It is said that the existing Fogong Temple is less than ten times smaller than that in its heyday. One-tenth. Since we entered the scenic spot late, the staff of Fogong Temple were about to close the gate of the temple. When they saw us, they hesitated for a moment, and then stopped to invite us to worship in the temple. I looked at her clothes and thought she was a volunteer, so I thanked her. She said, I am a staff member. I work half a day every day and only receive half of my salary, which is less than 2,000 yuan. He also said that if it was not because of faith, he would not have done this job. In the courtyard, a bouquet of flowers bloomed in full swing. She seemed to be talking to herself, and she seemed to explain to us that this year's torch tree blooms really well!


After walking out of the Fogong Temple, we were still reluctant to leave. The four of us sat on the steps west of the wooden pagoda, watching the tired birds return to their nests, watching the clouds rolling and relaxing, and looking at the gorgeous plaques. Outside the pagoda, each plaque is It is a paradise for calligraphy lovers. See how the skewed second-story tower body and the still upright upper part magically coexist.

Seeing a gray-haired old man carrying a heavy camera and taking pictures obsessively, I also think that maybe I will be her in the future. Old age without children can also be free and easy, and love myself.

At dusk, when we left, it was already past the business hours of the scenic spot. The gatekeeper waited for us so quietly, without a word of urging or complaining, and gently closed the gate behind him. His compassion may lie in feeling that although we are not far away, we may only have the opportunity to get close to the wooden pagoda at this moment in this life, and there will be no delivery date after that.

Walking out of the wooden pagoda, you will find a bustling pedestrian street full of shops. Behind the door is the tranquility of practitioners, and outside the door is the exaggeration of mortal dust.

I saw this plaque on the street. Hahaha. Maybe only a small number of people will pay attention to it. Everyone can't get rid of their own inherent perspective and professional brand.

The sun is setting and the sky is still clear. Tonight is actually a good weather to watch the sunset. Let's dedicate it to the way home.

We were discussing along the way, Ying County, the former Yingzhou, one of the famous Youyun sixteen prefectures, many state capitals in those days have fallen silent, no one cares about them, but here, because of this wooden tower, the royal family The temple has been used by descendants for thousands of years. So far, it is still because it attracts many tourists and raises the people economically.

Question: After all, are the ancestors who decided to build the pagoda and temple in Fuze descendants, or are the compassionate Buddhas and Bodhisattvas residing in the world to save living beings? Answer: Why can't ancestors be Buddhas and Bodhisattvas? People are future Buddhas, and Buddhas are people from the past.

When it was dark, I arrived in Datong and lived in the bustling Qingyuan Street. I intended to walk 300 meters away for the convenience of going to Huayan Temple. The Bajuelou Inn randomly selected is highly recommended, with a comfortable environment and convenient transportation. Sitting under the Drum Tower, a bowl of jelly, a serving of rabbit's head, sheep's trotters, big kiln soda and cold beer, the noise of the market and the satisfaction of the appetite, release the exhaustion of a day's travel. Good night!


26th

Get up early and go to Yungang Grottoes. Today’s itinerary is not a strategy, because Yungang Grottoes is the last stop of my tour of the four major grottoes. According to past experience, the time-consuming is all random. Today I decided to do it casually. No matter where you go.

Maybe it’s because I’m going to Yungang Grottoes. I got up early and it rained a little. The Bodhisattva blesses me, but only a few drops fell. I sincerely say that this is the most friendly of the four major grottoes. Watch, if you haven't watched the grottoes, this is really the best choice for viewing.

It is recommended to follow a tour guide or buy an electronic tour guide to observe the statues, and slowly look at the past cave by cave. The difference in time, the change of age, and the traces of the integration of Eastern and Western cultures are all displayed one by one. You know, now we can see everything at a glance, but it took many years to build it back then.

The most famous Tanyao Five Grottoes are located near the end of the group of grottoes. A few long prayer mats were placed in front of the big Buddha. The child kowtowed his head and worshiped the Buddha knowingly. Seeing him well-organized, I am glad that he has been close to Buddhism since he was a child, which can be regarded as planting good roots. So he followed him, kowtowed and worshiped the Buddha in a regular manner, wishing that from now to the future kalpa, the Buddha will never give up, and finally reach the other shore.

Many grottoes are not allowed to take pictures, and tourists are not allowed to touch them, but pigeons can. Seeing the pigeons resting freely in front of the Buddha window in the future, I also envy their blessings.

In front of the Buddha is the tourist service area, there is a shadow puppet show, the two children are curious to go to see it, it is the interpretation of the story of the eminent monk Tan Yao building the grotto, this time the impression is even deeper.


The only thing I want to complain about is that Yungang's cultural creation is really not interesting. Compared with the Forbidden City and Dunhuang, there is really no desire to consume. In addition, the siu mai here is actually Xiao Long Bao, which disappointed the rice-loving kids.

As far as the scale of Yungang Grottoes is concerned, three hours of sightseeing is enough. After lunch, I decided to go to Xuankong Temple.

Sometimes, traveling takes a little luck and courage. In the afternoon, on the way to Xuankong Temple, a distance of more than 100 kilometers, the rain began to fall, intermittently. While we were apprehensive, we decided to go to the temple. As a result, when we boarded the Hanging Temple, it rained heavily. We leaned on the cliff and listened to the thunder, but there was no wind, and the rain did not fall into the eaves, so we felt much more secure and could calm down and listen to the rain. It's also because of the rain, the tourists are not too crowded, and they can stop for a while in every place and feel satisfied.


When the rain stops, look at the time, think about it or go to the earth forest, just fight for character, bet that the rain will pass and the sky will be sunny, and the sky will be full of clouds. This is also the advantage of traveling alone. Even if the itinerary is not right, there will be no dissatisfaction and complaints.

It was 6 pm when we arrived at Tulin. The ticket office said that it closes at 8 pm in summer when the sun sets late. This is an excellent place to watch the sunset. To be honest, the tourism promotion here is average, the location is remote, and there are not many tourists. I met less than 30 tourists during the whole time. Perhaps it is because of the low number of people that the landscape here can be maintained. I really hope that it can continue to be hidden in the boudoir. But I can't help but promote its beauty, fearing that no one will see her once she passes away, which will cause more regrets.

Anyone who has seen Yadan Devil City knows that it is a majestic and shocking legacy of the rock's splendor. Here the same solitude and independence, uncanny workmanship. It's just that here is the upright loess, exposed after the rain, snow, wind and frost.

Wait until the rain is over and the sky will clear up, the sky will be full of clouds, and your face will be full of ravines, but you will see a thousand years at a glance. How many faces that have disappeared with the wind and rain will never be seen again.

The beauty is not much to say, the picture is on

Thanks to Bodhisattva for blessing all the way, today's itinerary is complete, and I will return to Datong at night to appease the stomach. calm down!


27th

Today is the last day of the holiday, and work will start tomorrow, but I have no choice but to go to Huayan Temple, so I discussed with my son last night, if you two don’t get enough sleep tomorrow morning, you can continue to sleep, we will go to Huayan Temple first, and come back at about ten o’clock , ask you to get up and have breakfast, then return. But the child said, I am going, mother, you wake up early and call me.

In fact, it’s useless to get up early. Huayan Temple doesn’t open until 8:30 to welcome visitors. We didn’t get up until 8:00 to clean up. We walked for ten minutes to the gate of the temple. You can enter here with a conversion card registration. Children are half-ticket, which is quite close to the people. .

When visitors come here, they must admire the grandeur and dignity of the royal temple, the exquisite luxury of the wooden pagoda, and the mysterious beauty of the oriental Venus Bodhisattva statue. But today, in the quiet morning, wandering around the monastery covering an area of ​​100 mu, I am even more amazed at its neatness and meticulousness. There are rows of fruit trees, but there are no dead branches and leaves; birds are flocking, but there is no droppings on the ground. Looking around, there is no garbage, no weeds, or even piles of debris. In a corner of a hall, I saw a volunteer holding a long-handled fine brush, dipped in the water in the bucket, and slowly scrubbing the ground. In this way, take it easy and clean it inch by inch.

The Buddha statue in the hall has been standing for thousands of years, and the dust on the shoulders and heads looks gray due to the accumulation of dust.

Isn't it to travel thousands of miles and see millennium objects to encounter the beauty of this world?

The journey must return at the end. The whole journey is more than 2,700 kilometers, and the return journey is 1,206 kilometers. It lasted nearly 13 hours and arrived in Nanjing at one o'clock in the morning on the 28th. The 5-day Mount Wutai-Datong pilgrimage ended successfully.

Nanjing, good morning!