"Meet the sea pavilion at dusk,

Intoxicated with no way back,

Sit and watch the evening return boat,

strayed into the depths of the seagulls,

fight for hello

fight for hello

Startled a pool of gulls~"

This is the word of Li Qingzhao, who came to Dali in 2016 and changed it after meeting Little Putuo. In a flash, it has been more than three years...

Those days in Dali were like "leisure clouds and wild cranes"...

There are as many "winds, flowers, snow and moons" as there are love affairs in Erhai Lake. So, before I came this time, what I always thought about was "No matter what, I have to go around the Erhai Lake again".

Going to Dali alone, it is actually a little difficult to go around the Erhai Lake. The Erhai Lake is 130 kilometers away, which seems not too far away, but in fact, it takes at least two days to play. The best way to go around the Erhai Lake is to drive by yourself, where you can play and stay wherever you go, it will be easy for two or three days. It is said that the last time the whole family came to drive by themselves, they did not play the whole Erhai Lake in five days in Dali! But this time, it’s easier said than done by driving alone. So what to do? I only have one day, and it's really frustrating to want to go around! So I carefully studied before departure, gave up some places, and kept the most important ones, and chose the carpooling method, with a driver, so that I didn't have to work too hard after playing from morning to night.

The most gratifying thing is: this trip alone, there is no so-called "love affair", but I met two little sisters in 1993, and a photographer "brother" who is a round younger than me. Super good. This time carpooling, I was lucky enough to walk around the Erhai Lake with this little sister from Fujian. I was very happy.

Come on, let me list the main scenic spots that I pass around the Erhai Lake for you, just for reference: Starting from Dali Ancient City—Cai Village—Ma Jiuyi Village—Fenxi Village—Xizhou—Zhoucheng—Butterfly Spring—Taoyuan Wharf—Jiangwei— Hewei Village—Hongshan Benzhu Temple—North of Shuanglang—South of Shuanglang—Quse—Little Putuo—Haiyin Village—Tianjing Pavilion—Jinsuo Island—Erhai Park—Longkan Wharf—Dali Ancient City. It is mainly divided into the east coast of Erhai Lake, the west coast of Erhai Lake, Shangguan, Xiaguan and the ancient city area. Below I will divide it into several parts, and focus on giving you the itinerary of this trip around the Erhai Lake.


[On the west bank of the Erhai Lake, you can feel happy from the heart after walking through the "Qianqian" knot]


The main scenic spots on the west bank of Erhai Lake: Xizhou, Caicun and Longkan Wharf, which I have already visited. Butterfly Spring and Three Pagodas have never been there, so I will not comment.

Watching "Flowers, Snow and Moon" in Dali actually sees more natural scenery and humanistic feelings. I have already talked about what you can feel when you come here in the previous article, and I have summed it up in two words "Red Earth". The west bank of the Erhai Lake mainly sees the pastoral style, the small days of the folks, and the beauty of those who look down. So, no matter what you encounter in the West Bank, it must be related to these.

The Longkan Wharf was the last time I came to Dali to take a boat trip to the Erhai Lake and Jinsuo Island. I still remember that the "Longkan" was not just a pier. In the trail, I feel that my heart is filled with a little inexplicable excitement, as if I am walking on a road to happiness. This feeling is very strange. If you don’t believe me, you can experience it as I said. Reminder: At present, it is no longer possible to go to Jinsuo Island by boat.

It is said that the village that Dali must go to is Cai Village. Because Caicun can experience slow life; Caicun can go boating on the Erhai Lake, sit and watch the clouds rise and disperse, sunrise and sunset; Caicun can also feel the sea of ​​flowers; Caicun can also let you feel the fun of cycling in Dali. I still remember Haizi’s poem saying: "From tomorrow on, be a happy person. Feed horses, chop firewood, travel around the world. From tomorrow on, care about food and vegetables. I have a house facing the sea, and the spring is warm and the flowers are blooming. "This sentence "Facing the sea, the spring is warm and the flowers are blooming." It has been used in countless articles and dreams, think about it, facing the sea, the spring is warm and the flowers are blooming. In Dali, it seems easy to find "Facing the sea, the spring is warm and the flowers are blooming". You can find it in Shuanglang, but if you want to have both the pastoral style in the poem and the spring and flowers facing the sea, then you may have to choose Caicun . However, here is a warm reminder: because of the government's management of Dali, many homestays near Erhai Lake have been demolished, and the construction of homestays requires a distance. In order to protect the environment of Erhai Lake, we can't enjoy it blindly, and the real "facing the sea, the spring is warm and the flowers are blooming" does not mean that we must be completely close to the sea. As long as our hearts are overflowing and we work hard to be happy, we will reap more. many. In addition, if you come to the seaside of Caicun in a certain afternoon and watch the sea light quietly, you can really be in a daze for an afternoon. This may be another kind of life.

The focus of this visit to the West Bank is mainly Xizhou. In fact, I have already talked about Xizhou in the previous article, whether it is the indifferent beauty that comes after being rich, or the idiotic blue tie-dyeing, or the autumn colors of Xizhou, or It's the tempting Xizhou Baba or the delicious tofu wrapped in milk that I don't know how to describe will make you intoxicated here. I have been to Xizhou twice, and I have been moved by those little beauties. I would like to sincerely recommend it to those who plan to come to Dali: remember to come to Dali Xizhou in autumn to have a look, and you will not be disappointed. People here's protection of traditional life is beyond your expectations, and may even make you unable to understand. There are no bars, no nightclubs here, and the few style hotels you can count will make you remember them in your heart. They don't need to be commercialized, because they seem to have seen through the rich and powerful. The traditional crafts are also passed down here by craftsmen. You must come to Xizhou to experience tie-dyeing. Listen to me, Xizhou, I will definitely surprise you. More about Xizhou has been mentioned in the previous article, you can read it back, and I won’t repeat it here.


[On the east coast of the Erhai Lake, I strayed into the "mortal world" for a dream, I really want to live in seclusion here and never leave]


The main scenic spots on the east coast of Erhai Lake: Shuanglang, Little Putuo, and Jinsuo Island, which I have already visited. I have not been to Duse and Jizu Mountain yet, so I will skip it.

In fact, this time I did not focus on the East Bank, because the last time I came to Dali was mainly to play on the East Bank, so this time I will not come here to review the past. However, the scenery on the east coast is infinite, which makes people want to stop.

Let’s start with Shuanglang. The reason why “Shuanglang” is called Shuanglang is due to the “double curve and double island”. The song here is the dill song in the north and the lotus song in the south, and the island here is It refers to Jinsuo Island in the front and Yuji Island in the back. Shuangdao embraces a double curve in the middle, so it is named Shuanglang. Most of the things that are "in pairs" I am very happy, not because they are so beautiful that they have to be related to love, but more because a "pair" experiences strength and happiness. There is another island in Shuanglang, which is the Nanzhao style island. The last time I took my children to this island, I also went to Jinsuo Island, but there is only one Yuji Island left, and this one is also an artist. The residence of Yang Liping's "Sun Palace". This time, due to time constraints, I didn't stop at the Shuanglang, just walked by, read and read, that's all. However, in my heart, there is always a "double corridor". Because there are dreamy flowers in this double corridor, there is a quiet afternoon tea, there is a table for each person with a book, there is a dazed self, and there is a moment of wonder at the moment when the sea and sky are the same color and the sun is setting. Everyone's definition of pursuing beauty is different. If you are willing to spend more time, even a day or two, a week, or even a month, or you can live forever, if you don't want to leave, you can stay. You must know that the only people who stay here are those who really want to "hidden from the world".

After talking about Shuangdao and Shuangqu, let's talk about Jinsuo Island. Jinsuo Island is the largest island above Erhai Lake. It faces Cangshan Mountain in the west, while the east bank is the residence of the island people. There is a ferry on Jinsuo Island, and you need a ferry to go to the island. As I said just now, there is no boat from Longkan Wharf to get to Jinsuo Island, so if you want to go to the island now, you have to go to the Tacun Ferry on the east bank and board the island by ferry. Like Nanzhao Customs Island, you need to walk after landing on the island. There are routes around the island, and some routes require mountaineering. The days of living in the island can be very slow, or it seems that time is quiet, but in an instant, it seems that time is surging like a sudden storm. Therefore, the island life in Jinsuo Island, you can look forward to it, it should be a real life day after day.

The last paragraph of text should be reserved for Little Putuo! It's also where I wrote the first verse. I still remember the last time I came here because it happened to be in winter, and there were groups of seagulls. But this time when I passed by here in autumn, I couldn't see the seagulls, because I have a lot of memories in my heart, and there are always good things. Strange to say, this little Putuo looks like an island, but it is actually more like a palm-sized temple floating on the water. If I was a Buddhist believer and I would take a ferry to worship Buddha every time I came here, then it would be fine if I missed him very much. But I am just a person who only believes in faith and yearns for freedom. What is the magic of this temple that makes me like it so much? Puzzled, puzzled, so far have not found the answer. Forget it, it’s good to have doubts in your heart once in a while, life is not always solved.

Heart-warming reminder: The best way to go around the Erhai Lake is by self-driving, so that you can drive wherever you want, park wherever you want, play wherever you want, and stay wherever you want. Self-driving is best for two or more people, so that it will not be too tiring. Of course, there are two recommended ways to check in at the Erhai Lake, which have become very popular in recent years, one is cycling and the other is motorcycles. The former is more artistic, while the latter is cooler and more fashionable. This time I also tried to drive an electric motorcycle. As long as I am not given a motorcycle, I think it should be good to drive a small electric motorcycle around the Erhai Lake with my driving experience of more than ten years. For carpooling, there are actually two types. You can choose travel photography, the driver also takes pictures, and the round trip around the Erhai Lake is only one or two hundred yuan. There is also a purely chartered car, which needs to be negotiated before starting.

Finally, I would like to recommend another homestay close to the ancient city of Dali—Dali MYST~Mi Hotel. The theme of this homestay is retro. If you like this style, you might as well give it a try. It is also very like a bar on the first floor. The cup of sweetness inside is really still reminiscing about its taste. It is my favorite intertwining of sour and sweet. The hotel is very close to the South Gate of Dali Ancient City, only a five-minute walk. In addition, when I go out alone, I rely on a tripod to take pictures. Whether it is in a hotel or a scenic spot, after adjusting the equipment, there will be dozens of pictures, haha. Finally, I would like to thank the little sister who was with me, who also helped me take some photos, and the little brother who used the electric motorcycle to drive me, haha, if there is a chance, we can cooperate together.

Next time you come to Dali, you have to bring Tianhao to clock in at 3966 to hang a blessing card. Xizhou and Shuanglang will still choose to go and stay. If possible, I hope that in the most beautiful March and April, when the flowers in Shangguan meet the wind in Shangguan, we will see you with Cang Er.