At 14:00 on July 12, my wife and I drove from Tianjin on time, arrived at Ying County, Shuozhou City, Shanxi Province at 20:00 that night, and checked into the hotel next to the wooden pagoda. At 8 a.m. on July 13, Yingxian Wooden Pagoda and Yingxian Fogong Temple Scenic Area opened for 2 hours. The wooden pagodas are very distinctive. Leave Ying County at 10 o'clock. Arrive at Chongfu Temple in Shuocheng District, Shuozhou City at 11:00, because it is summer, all scenic spots close at noon, rest time is from 11:00 to 15:00 pm, and open from 15:00 to 17:30. Therefore, before 15 o'clock, you can only visit the ruins of the ancient city of Shuozhou and the Confucian Temple. At 15 o'clock in the afternoon, it is better to listen to the explanations at Chongfu Temple, Yuchi Jingde Temple, and Mayi Museum in Shuocheng District. All scenic spots in Shuocheng District are free, and the parking fee is 1 yuan per hour. In the evening, stay in Shuocheng Development Zone, which is very close to the old city. On July 14th, I left Shuocheng District at 8:20 in the morning, arrived at Yanmen Pass in Dai County, Xinzhou City at 10:00, left at 13:00 noon, and arrived in Tianjin at 20:00 in the evening. Yanmenguan Scenic Area is very good. It is suggested that everyone go to the north gate, and it is easy to go, that is, enter from the Houyaopu post station. The south gate is a little far away, referring to the Qianyaopu station. The main attractions are near the North Gate.
At 8 am on July 13, Yingxian Wooden Pagoda and Yingxian Fogong Temple. At 11 o'clock in the morning, arrive at Shuozhou Ancient City Ruins and Confucian Temple in Shuozhou City, and at 15 o'clock in the afternoon, Shuocheng District Chongfu Temple, Yuchi Jingde Temple, and Mayi Museum.
Arrive at Yanmen Pass, Dai County, Xinzhou City at 10:00 am on July 14, leave at 13:00 noon, and arrive in Tianjin at 20:00 pm.
The following are the strategies I collected before the trip, for reference only.
The full name of the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda is Fogong Temple Sakyamuni Pagoda. It is located in the Fogong Temple in the northwest corner of Yingxian County, Shuozhou City, Shanxi Province. It is the main building of Fogong Temple. It was built in the second year of Qingning in Liao Dynasty (AD 1056), and was completed in the sixth year of Jin Mingchang (AD 1195). It is the oldest and tallest pure wooden structure pavilion building in my country, a treasure of ancient Chinese architecture, and a model of wooden structure architecture in the world. The wooden pagoda is located between the mountain gate and the main hall on the north-south central axis of the temple, and belongs to the layout of "front pagoda and back hall". The tower is built on a four-meter-high platform, with a height of 67.31 meters and a diameter of 30.27 meters at the bottom, in a plane octagonal shape. The facade of the first floor has double eaves, and the upper floors have single eaves. There are five floors and six eaves in total. There are hidden floors between each floor, which is actually nine floors. Because the ground floor has double eaves and a corridor, the appearance of the tower is six-story eaves.
There are two doors in the north and south of the bottom of the tower body, flat railings are set around the second floor and above, and wooden stairs are installed on each floor. Visitors can climb up to the top step by step. There are four doors on each floor from the second to fifth floors, all of which are equipped with wooden partitions, with plenty of light. When you go out, you can lean on the railing and look far away. There are statues of Buddha on each floor of the pagoda. On the first floor is Sakyamuni, 11 meters high, with a dignified face and a pleasant expression. There is a beautiful and gorgeous algae well on the top. , the murals are brightly colored and the characters are lifelike. The second-story altar base is square, with one Buddha, two Bodhisattvas and two attendants on it. The three-story altar base is octagonal, and the square Buddha is molded on it. The four-story plastic Buddha and the statues of Anuo, Kasyapa, Manjusri and Samantabhadra. Five layers of sculpture Vairocana Tathagata and NPC Bodhisattva. The sculptures of Buddha statues are exquisite, each has its own modality, and has high artistic value.
The tower is 67.31 meters high, and the bottom diameter is 30.27 meters. It is composed of a lotus-covered bowl, a phase wheel flame, an upward-looking vase and orbs. There is an iron shaft in the middle, inserted into the beam frame, and eight iron chains around it, which are introduced into the ground along the octagonal corner of the tower, forming a complete set of lightning protection facilities. , Ingenuity. It is no wonder that Gu Yanwu wrote a poem "The palace in Luonan is exhausted, and a tower hangs in the blue sky", and Zang Yin wrote a poem "In the clouds and smoke of the exquisite ancient pagoda, a pillar of the sky is not leaning against", saying that the pagoda is like a cloud hanging from the sky, majestic. (Head of the Ministry of Household Affairs) Tian Hui took the words "Tianzhu Dixie" from "Huainanzi·Tianwen Xun" to make a plaque for the wooden pagoda, and hung it under the eaves of the pagoda, not to mention the great calligrapher of the Jin Dynasty Wang Yu (one said Wang The three-character plaque "Shijia Pagoda" written by Bing) is plump and full, and has a history of more than 800 years. It is the oldest and most precious. The plaque inscribed by the two emperors of the Ming Dynasty is also rare. Throughout China, there are more than thousands of famous temples and pagodas. There is only one temple called "Buddhist Palace", and there is only one temple named "Sakyamuni". Not burnt, strong earthquakes do not fall, and wars do not destroy, it can be called the world's strange pagoda. Two Buddha tooth relics were found in the belly of the Buddha statue on the second floor and the fourth floor of the pagoda, which added to the mystery of the pagoda. , the palace where the Buddha lived, and the pagoda that enshrined the remains of Sakyamuni's real body.
The full name of the Sakyamuni Pagoda is Fogong Temple. The Sakyamuni Pagoda is located in the Fogong Temple in the northwest of Yingxian County, Shuozhou City, Shanxi Province. It is commonly known as Yingxian Wooden Pagoda. It is the tallest and oldest wooden tower building in China, and it is also called "the world's three strange towers" together with the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy and the Eiffel Tower in Paris. In 2016, Shakya Pagoda was recognized by Guinness World Records as the tallest wooden pagoda in the world.
You can't climb the wooden pagoda in Yingxian County, you can only take a look at it on the first floor.
The ticket is 50 yuan, and the ticket also contains a 3D experience to visit the internal structure of the wooden tower in a high-tech virtual environment.
Over the past 900 years, there have been several earthquakes. In the 1920s, a machine gun position was built here for Yan Xishan to resist Feng Yuxiang's attack. The wooden tower was hit by dozens of shells, but it still did not fall.
Chongfu Temple, commonly known as the "big temple", is located on the north side of East Street in Shuocheng District. It is one of the three existing Liao and Jin Buddhist temples in my country. It was first built in the second year of Tang Linde (665), and it was built by Yu Chi Jingde, the Duke of E, under the imperial edict. The temple sits north and faces south, with five entrances and ten halls in the courtyard. The primary and secondary are distinct, the layout is strict, and the total area of the grand building is 23,520 square meters.
The main hall of Chongfu Temple is Amitabha Hall, which was built in the third year of Jin Xizong's reign (1143) and has a history of more than 800 years. Under the front eaves of the hall, there is a vertical plaque of "Amitabha Hall", which is the 20th anniversary of Jin Dading. Four years (1184) of the original. In order to expand the internal space and increase the space for the location of the Buddhist altar and the location of the Buddha, the method of reducing and moving the columns is a bold innovation in the history of Chinese architecture. The Amitabha Hall is the essence of the whole temple, especially known as the "Five Wonders". Its exquisite murals, huge plaques, statue backlights, carved window lattices and glazed ridge decorations are called the "Five Wonders".
Guanyin Hall, the last Buddhist hall in Chongfu Temple, was built in the late Jin Dynasty. The hall is five rooms wide and three rooms deep. , Guanshiyin Bodhisattva is in the center, Manjusri and Samantabhadra Bodhisattvas are arranged on the left and right. In the design of the beam structure, the "column reduction construction method" is creatively adopted, and all the gold columns in the front slot are subtracted, and double herringbone cross hands are cleverly used. , the force is decomposed, and the connection between the components is properly handled, reaching the point of no trace, the structure is reasonable, and the space of the temple is effectively expanded, becoming a model in the history of ancient Chinese architecture. The murals of the statues in the hall were destroyed in the early wars, and they were repaired in the Ming Dynasty. They were in disrepair for a long time, and the statues were often peeled off and damaged. The statues are brilliant, and they complement the hall, which is the result of the renovation. In the stele corridor in the northeast corner of the temple, 23 stone steles are arranged neatly at right angles, but the handwriting on the stele body is mostly blurred, and the degree of identification is low. The Huadai plaque of the Amitabha Hall has a blue background, yellow characters, white borders, and is decorated with cloud patterns. It has a simple and simple charm and is very precious. Chongfu Temple was founded in the second year of Linde in the Tang Dynasty (665 A.D.), and it was built by order of Yu Chi Jingde, a general of the Tang Dynasty, a native of Shuozhou, and the Duke of E. In the Liao Dynasty, the temple was changed to Lin Taishi's government office, and later changed to a temple, named Lin Ya Temple. During the reign of Emperor Xizong of the Jin Dynasty, the temple was expanded and large-scale construction was carried out. In the second year of Tiande in the Jin Dynasty (1150 A.D.), Wan Yanliang, King Hailing of the Jin Dynasty, inscribed "Chongfu Temple" on the temple until now. In 2009, a new Chongfu Square was built, consisting of Mayi Museum, Yuchi Jingde Temple, a grand stage, historical scrolls, stone carvings, etc., integrating architecture, cultural relics, sculptures, murals, and calligraphy. It has become a scenic spot of Chongfu Temple.
The old Guangwu City in Shanyin County is located at the Baicaokou under the Yanmen Pass, on the south side of the Guangwu Tombs. It is one of the most complete ancient cities in Shanxi Province and the most complete ancient city in Liao Dynasty in my country. According to the "History of Liao Dynasty", the old Guangwu City was first built in Liao and Jin Dynasties, and it was the defensive stronghold in front of Yanmen Pass. Today, there are still ancient city walls built in the Ming and Qing Dynasties in the city. The city wall is 7.35 meters high, 5 meters wide at the bottom, and 3.4 meters wide at the top. The exterior is all brick, with stone strips as the foundation. Crenels, lookout holes and perforations are placed along the parapet at the top. There are gates on the east, south and west sides of the city wall, but no north gate. Climbing the tower, you can see the ancient Great Wall of Guangwu on the far mountain. On some streets in the city, there are still dents left by the passing of horse-drawn carriages. There are two tall and lush ancient cypress trees standing in the city. According to research, the ancient cypress trees have a history of more than 800 years. The two cedars, one female and one male, are 4 meters apart, which is also rare in China. Old Guangwu City, located 40 kilometers south of Shanyin County, is one of the most complete ancient cities in Shanxi Province. It stands on the pass, facing the inner Great Wall in the south, Xinguangwu City in the east, the ancient city of Han Yinwan in the north, and the site of Yanmen Pass in the Liao Dynasty in the west. According to textual research, the construction age of the ancient city wall was first built in the Liao Dynasty. At that time, the city wall was rammed. It was covered with bricks in the seventh year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (1374), and it was repaired and repaired in the Qing Dynasty. In addition to the appearance of the existing city wall with the characteristics of the Ming Dynasty, its main regulation and structure are basically the old things of the Liao Dynasty. The perimeter of the ancient city wall is 1,652 meters, covering a total area of 16,296 square meters, with a rectangular plane. The layout of street buildings in the city basically retains the original system. In June 2006, the State Council announced it as the sixth batch of "National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units". All the villagers live here, there is no commercial development, it is basically original, and of course there is no entrance fee. In the morning, leave Shuozhou City and drive to the old Guangwu City. Go east along the expressway around the city, turn to Erguang Expressway and go south, the whole journey is 50 kilometers, and it takes 45 minutes. If you use Baidu mobile phone navigation, you must enter "Old Guangwu Village" as the address instead of Old Guangwu City, otherwise it will lead to "New Guangwu Village".
The Guangwu Great Wall starts from the East River of Baicaokou in Dai County, Xinzhou City in the west, and ends at Xinguangwu Village in Shanyin County, Shuozhou City in the east, with a total length of 10 kilometers. This section of the Great Wall was built by Li Jingyuan, the censor of the governor's capital in the 33rd year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty (1605). This line is also a mature donkey line and is well-known among donkey friends. According to historical records, this section of the Great Wall is covered with bricks and stones, with stone tombs on the bottom, bricks on the top, and earth on the inside. It is 6-10 meters high, 4 meters wide at the top, and 5 meters wide at the bottom. One building is built every 120 meters, and beacon fires are set up. Terraces, enemy towers, pass disposal fortresses, hidden doors, extending from east to west and connecting with the outer Great Wall. Today, many of these brick walls have been dismantled by local people to build houses, leaving only some remaining city walls and wall stacks.
Guangwu Tunbing Fort has great historical and military value. Located at the foot of the Yanmen Pass Great Wall in the south of Shanyin County, it is the main throat inside and outside the Yanmen Pass, so it is called "the key of the North Gate". Many famous generals, such as Li Mu of Zhao State, Meng Tian of Qin Dynasty, Wei Qing, Li Guang, Huo Qubing of Han Dynasty, Yang Ye of Song Dynasty, Yu Qian of Ming Dynasty, etc., once stationed troops here and defeated the enemy by surprise. It is the main throat inside and outside Yanmen Pass
Mayi Museum is the Shuozhou Museum, the hometown museum of Zhang Liao and Yu Chigong. The Mayi Museum exhibits a total of 745 precious cultural relics from the ancient Cretaceous period to the 1940s, including 20 national first-class cultural relics such as Cao Tiandu Thousand Buddha Stone Pagoda and Tasha in the Northern Wei Dynasty, and 189 national second- and third-class cultural relics. The nine-story Thousand Buddha Stone Pagoda Temple in the Northern Wei Dynasty and the Yanyu Lantern in the Han Dynasty are national first-class cultural relics.
The Cao Tiandu Thousand Buddha Stone Pagoda in the Northern Wei Dynasty took three years to build. At the beginning of the pagoda's completion, its magnificent temperament surprised the world. The build fits perfectly. This is a precious cultural relic reflecting the achievements of Buddhist art in the Northern Dynasties of our country. According to the inscription at the bottom of the pagoda, in the first year of Tian'an (466) of the Northern Wei Dynasty, Cao Tiandu, a minister of Emperor Xianwen Tuo Bahong, poured his entire family's assets into the sculpture. The pagoda is made of stone and has a square nine-level solid pavilion style. It is the earliest pavilion-style pagoda in China. The stone pagoda is beautiful in shape and finely carved, and its statues and artistic style are very similar to the pillars of the second, sixth and eighth caves of Yungang Grottoes in Datong. The Thousand Buddha Stone Pagoda consists of three parts: the tower base, the tower body and the tower brake, with a total of nine floors. The total height of the tower base and tower body is 153.1 cm, and the total height of the tower brake is 57 cm (of which the tenon is 7.5 cm). The details of the stone pagoda are perfectly done. The Tasha is composed of four parts: the cover bowl, the phase wheel, the mountain base, and the tenon. The middle part of the niche is a covered bowl, and the four corners are carved with banana leaves, and there are statues of boys with hands clasped on each side between the banana leaves. The phase wheel is composed of a phase wheel and a treasure brake. The phase wheel has seven layers and is exquisitely carved. The body of the pagoda is built like a Han Que-style wooden structure. The roof, row tiles, bucket arches, and rafters are all available. There are different numbers of Buddha statues, which are extremely exquisite. The front of the tower base is embossed with a lion, which symbolizes Dharma protection, with curly tail, round eyes and open mouth. It is very powerful. On both sides, there are images of supporters. As a treasure handed down from generation to generation, it is unprecedented to open a niche for statues on the Tasha, which fully demonstrates the wisdom and wisdom of the working people in our country during the Northern Wei Dynasty. Later, during the Liao and Jin Dynasties, it was transported to Shuocheng District and placed in Chongfu Temple. The Thousand-Buddha Stone Pagoda is the earliest and most complete pavilion-style pagoda in my country with the largest number of Buddha statues carved by independent individuals.
Yanmen Pass is an important part of the Great Wall, a world cultural heritage, and a national key cultural relic protection unit. It is the ancient pass with the longest history, the most frequent wars, the highest popularity and the widest influence. In 2001, Yanmen Pass was announced by the State Council of the People's Republic of China as one of the fifth batch of national key cultural relics protection units. Yanmenguan Scenic Area is a tourism area of frontier culture, Great Wall culture and pass culture, with the historical relics and ruins of Yanmenguan military defense system as the main landscape resources. The planned area of the scenic spot is 30 square kilometers. The remains of historical buildings of different grades, functions, and shapes, such as Guancheng, the Great Wall, Aicheng, Bingbao, and Beacon Towers, have formed a desolate, dignified, majestic, and atmospheric border tourist style in the scenic area, showing that this historically famous The historical role and the rise and fall of Guanguan are used to describe the vicissitudes and vicissitudes it has witnessed for more than 3,000 years. With the large-scale restoration and development in recent years, Yanmenguan Scenic Spot has become a leading and well-known frontier cultural tourism destination integrating "eat, live, travel, travel, shopping, entertainment" and other functions. Zhenbian Temple, located on the east side of Tianxian Gate in Guancheng, covers an area of 3,190 square meters and a building area of 1,510 square meters. It is one of the largest building complexes in Yanmen Pass. It was first built in the sixth year of Ming Zhengde (AD 1506) to commemorate Li Mu, the general of Zhao State during the Warring States Period. It was called Wu'an Jun Temple, commonly known as Li Mu Temple. In 1856 (the sixth year of Xianfeng), the monk Shanquan built a Buddhist temple on the former site of Li Mu Temple and renamed it Huguo Zhenbian Temple. Although it is a Buddhist temple, there is still a statue of General Li Mu in the hall, so the Zhenbian Temple has become a complex building that is mainly a Buddhist temple and also worships Li Mu. After the Japanese army occupied Yanmen Pass in 1937, the Zhenbian Temple was destroyed and only the foundation remained. Since 2009, it has been rebuilt as it was and renamed Zhenbian Temple, and it has become an exhibition hall displaying Ji Xing, Li Mu, Xue Rengui, Yang Jiajiang and other famous guards from the Western Zhou Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty for more than 2,600 years. The reconstructed Zhenbian Temple not only reproduces the scale and shape of the heyday in history, but also endows it with new display content and cultural connotations, becoming a window for a comprehensive understanding of Yanmenguan military culture.
Qianyaopu Post Station is located in the middle of the Guannan Ancient Road at the Yanguan Gate. Historically, there are many posthouses, guest houses, and shops, hence the name. It corresponds to the "back waist shop" between Yanmen Pass and Xinguangwu. It has now been turned into a modern service area integrating catering, accommodation, leisure, consultation, etc. in the scenic spot.
Fuge Village is also called Fujiaping. Historically, it was the logistics support base for the Yanmen Pass garrison during the war period, and it was a well-known venue for Hu-Han trade in peacetime. In the gentle land of Fujiaping, the northern nomads traded dairy products and furs such as cattle, horses, and sheep from the grasslands, and silk, cotton, linen, Chinese medicinal materials, tea, and handicrafts from the Han people in the Central Plains. There are commercial firms, inns, restaurants, wine shops, banks, and pawnshops here, and it has become a themed village and film and television shooting base that focuses on displaying military supplies, trade, and folk customs at the border.
Yanmenguan Ancient Road has a total length of 20 kilometers and was called "Guangou forty miles" in ancient times. The Guan Road leads to the plateau outside the Great Wall in the north and the hinterland of the Central Plains in the south. In thousands of years of history, it has always been the throat of the Han people in the Central Plains going north and the grassland nomads going south. It must pass through, the thoroughfare for pedestrians. It is this winding ancient pass road that has carried the vicissitudes of history for more than 3,000 years, which has created the historical mission of Yanmen Pass, and also achieved the eternal glory of Yanmen Pass.
Guanyin Hall is located on the west side of Guannan Ancient Pan Road, south of Guanling. The Avalokitesvara Temple built in the Ming Dynasty and built in the Qing Dynasty was burned down by the Japanese invaders in 1937. In August 2009, it was rebuilt into a pure stone building. The statues of Avalokitesvara in the hall are "Four-faced Avalokitesvara" carved in white marble, namely Holy Avalokitesvara, Ruyi Avalokitesvara, Horse Head Avalokitesvara, Ruyi Avalokitesvara and Eleven-faced Avalokitesvara, implying to protect tourists and believers from all directions. Yanmenguan Post Station is located in the cave dwelling on the south side of the Yanmenguan Town Bianci Temple. There are 6 holes in the north, 3 holes in the east, and 2 holes in the upward step in the northeast corner, a total of 11 cave dwellings. There have been 22 emperors, 23 generals, 3 princesses, and countless celebrities and sages here. In 1948, on his way from Yan'an to Xibaipo, Hebei, Chairman Mao Zedong also took a short rest here when he boarded Yanmen Pass.
Tianxian Gate is the gate on the south side of Guancheng, the first city gate in Guannan, with stone-based brick coupons and a height of 12.5 meters. The word "natural danger" is engraved in seal script on the plaque above the door opening. The bluestone slab inside the gate is the original Ming Dynasty, and the clear ruts still tell people the colorful and glorious past for more than 600 years.
There is a related building built on the Tianxian Gate, also known as the Wild Goose Tower. The original building was destroyed in 1937, and the existing main body was rebuilt in 1989 and repaired in 2010. The Goose Tower is 5 rooms wide and 4 rooms deep, with double eaves and a mountain-top style, surrounded by corridors. The building is empty, and its main function in history was for soldiers to inspect and look out. It is now the Yanmenguan Ancient Museum.
There is a dedicated parking lot, which is suitable for self-driving tours. It is very exciting to go down the mountain from Shibadao Bay after the game. Yanmen Shibapan is also a little famous. The road is short and not long, but every corner has its own danger, and, on the road The marked number of turns also gave us a strong psychological hint, making us feel like we are facing a formidable enemy. Yanmen Pass, located in Yanmen Mountain about 20 kilometers north of Daixian County, Xinzhou City, Shanxi Province, China, is an important pass on the Great Wall. It is famous for its "dangerous" and is known as "the first pass in China". Yanmen is the head". Together with Ningwuguan and Pianguan, it is called the "Three Outer Passes".
There are 7 important early Great Walls identified by the State Administration of Cultural Heritage in the territory, with a total length of 48,013 meters. There are Zhao Great Walls in the Warring States Period, Han Great Walls, Northern Qi Great Walls, Northern Zhou Great Walls, and Ming Great Walls. The Great Walls of various dynasties are hundreds of kilometers long. The representative one is Yanmenguan Great Wall.
The north gate is easy to walk, but the south gate is a bit far away. You have to climb a two-kilometer mountain road, so you have to ask which door you want. After entering the door, you have to take the battery car of the scenic spot, and the total round trip is 10 yuan. Yanmen Pass is a very important pass in the history of our country. Guanliguanwai mainly refers to the inside and outside of Yanmenguan Great Wall.
