foreword

Looking back on the past year, whether it was a year of bumps or bumps, or a year of willfulness, perhaps it was this opportunity that made me have a subtle change in my usual view of things, and seemed to be more courageous to make decisions. Either pause for a moment, or move on.

Stop to recharge, find the direction and start running again. When you can’t go abroad, find a place where there are few people in a daze.

So a quiet frontier town came into view, it is Tengchong, Yunnan, where a life of incognito may be possible.

In the name of Tengchong, I revisited Dali and Kunming by the way. Surprises and minefields were mixed along the way. Fortunately, everything went well. I suddenly feel that what we are chasing during the journey is nothing more than an ordinary and real life. It is a lucky thing to have a little happiness in the busyness, and to see the moving scenery at the moment of looking up.

We don't always get what we want, but that's life.

Journey has never been a part of thousands of lives.

Heshun, an ancient town filled with the smell of books

When it comes to Tengchong, although it has volcanic geothermal heat, the most worth visiting should be the ancient town of Heshun. In Heshun Ancient Town, there is such a sign that reads:

"There is a kind of taste called harmony. It is warm and moist like jade, and goodness is like water. In the ancient buildings surrounded by the volcanic hot sea, the bells of merchants and caravans echoed, the fragrance of farming and reading books wafted, and the thoughts of popular philosophy were spread. A strong and intense tragic song! It may be a pity not to experience the taste of gentleness once in a lifetime."

Heshun Ancient Town is a quiet ancient city that few people will go to. Although "Northern Love" made it famous, it is still a small town because of inconvenient transportation. Only after staying in a courtyard homestay for three days will you discover the beauty of this mountain city.

Most of the time in the ancient town belongs to nature, quiet and ordinary. Residents living in the ancient town gather in the compound to chat, enjoy the scenery, and care about the daily life in their free time.

The current population of Heshun is about 6,000, and there are more than 10,000 Heshun people living overseas, hence the name "Hometown of Overseas Chinese". The Hui-style buildings, archways and ancestral halls, and cultural origins preserved everywhere in the ancient town are the most precious existence here.

A vast rice field next to the ancient town has nourished generations of residents here. Walking to the other side of the rice field, you can see more clearly the entire small town rising from the mountains, scattered and growing upwards.

In the early morning, the tricycles purchasing ingredients rumbled by, the charcoal fire was crackling and the hot bait was cooked at the breakfast shop, the sunshine in the afternoon was suitable for hiding and taking a nap, and the children came out of the school after school...these are all ordinary scenes that are constantly being staged every day .

Nestled against the entire paddy field in Heshun Ancient Town, it is really good to shoot. The endless golden paddy field has grown to a height of one meter during the harvest season, which makes the city people who are full of freshness take pictures here for a long time and do not want to leave. …

More than 400 years ago, the villagers here began to "travel to the barbarians". Since Heshun is only 70 kilometers away from Myanmar, there are the most people who go there to do jade business, and many of them have become rich and wealthy. After returning home, they built houses in Heshun and invested in the construction of ancestral halls. Therefore, there are eight ancestral halls in the township, with different styles. different.

Walking along the small river around the city, you will find several laundry kiosks. Back then, most of the men in the village "traveled to barbarians" to make ends meet, while the women stayed in their hometowns to wash, cook and take care of their families. While doing laundry, they raised funds to build a laundry kiosk without being exposed to the wind and the sun. Over time, there are large and small pavilions along the road.

If you want to fully experience Heshun, it will take at least three days. Instead of rushing to check in every architectural attraction, you will walk through every stone road, the smoke in the morning, the tranquility in the afternoon, and the twilight of the setting sun. , Starry sky late at night... Especially after leaving Heshun Ancient Town, you will miss the little days here even more.

Raiders of Heshun Ancient Town

1. The original ticket price of Heshun Ancient Town is 55 yuan, and now the half price is 27.5 yuan, including the historical architectural attractions in the ancient town, save the ticket stub or bring your ID card for ticket verification, and you can enter and exit the ancient town within three days.

2. There are many choices of B&Bs in the ancient town, and it is up to the person to be rich and thrifty. In fact, if you have enough time, you can live in two to experience different experiences. B&Bs generally include pick-up and drop-off, which can be picked up from the airport or from the city.

3. When it comes to homestay pick-up and drop-off, except for some brand hotels that have their own drivers, local homestays generally cooperate with the fleet, and the drivers are not their own. During the pick-up, the driver will usually ask if you need a chartered car to visit nearby attractions. The market price is 300 a day. If you want to go to 2-3 nearby places without driving, it is more cost-effective to charter a car. It depends on the individual, the driver It won't force you either.

4. The night in Heshun Ancient Town is very quiet, and there is almost no nightlife. There are several bars in the ancient town, but they may not open every day. The restaurant usually closes at 8-9 o'clock, and there are only one or two barbecue stalls left later. What street lights, it is recommended not to run too far at night.

5. The ancient town is full of cobblestone roads. Sports shoes are recommended. If the luggage is relatively large, it is recommended not to book a homestay that is too deep, otherwise it will be an extraordinary test of foot strength.

6. Regarding hot springs, we went to the Bolian Hot Spring Hotel next to the ancient town. Since the entire Tengchong scenic spot was developed by Bolian Hot Springs, the environment of Bolian Hot Springs is also the best. The hot springs here in Tengchong rarely have private hot springs. It is necessary to wear a swimsuit to soak in different large pools, and the hot spring water has no smell. If you want to soak in hot springs with a sulfur smell, it is recommended to go to the hot sea area.

A little freshness in Beihai Wetland

The Beihai Wetland belongs to the volcanic barrier lake ecosystem. The aquatic plants are densely intertwined in the water, and they die and regenerate in a sufficiently moist soil until they form meadows floating on the water. The volcanic barrier lake wetland of thousands of years has become Tengchong A classic postcard.

Beihai Wetland Scenic Area is an ecological protection area surrounded by mountains. The lake is as calm as a mirror, and aquatic plants grow wantonly. The scenic area is not big, and it can be completed in about two hours. The wetlands are rich in species of flora and fauna. There are wild flowers blooming in spring and summer, and migratory birds come here to spend the winter in autumn and winter. It is a good choice to take a walk along the boardwalk all the way back and forth, or take a cruise to the end and then walk back.

Tickets are purchased together by the chartered car master. 80 yuan includes the experience of cruise and rowing, which is cheaper than buying tickets directly by yourself.

For people who have lived in the city for a long time, such a green landscape is exactly what urbanites look up to infinitely.

The entire wetland scenic spot is long, and there are about 3 kilometers in one trip. The cruise can really save some energy. You will see some unnamed birds along the way. The one below should be an egret, stretching its long A long neck is beautiful by itself.

"Beautiful water and grass" should be the most appropriate adjective for this place. When the boat slowly sails across the calm lake, the water plants floating in the water are clearly visible, and flocks of wild ducks swim past the grass, such a beautiful scene.

These two charmingly blue ones are purple water chickens, which are relatively rare water birds in China.

When the cruise ship sailed to the last pier, the few small thatched cottages under the lush mountains looked like the lakes and mountains of Switzerland. This tranquility is lovely.

In the grass rafting experience area of ​​Beihai Wetland, you can try the wonderful experience of floating on the water. A thick meadow replaces bamboo rafts. Three or four people can stand on the lake with bamboo props to control the direction, and move forward on the lake like a floating blanket.

Raiders of Beihai Wetland Scenic Area

2. Features of the four seasons:

Spring - purple iris;

Summer — Brightness and charm revealed in the light Romance yarn;

Autumn — Linglian is fragrant, fish and shrimp are playing, and light boats and bamboo rafts are in the meantime;

Winter — There are flocks of wild ducks, and migratory birds are flying and playing in the water;

3. Experience items: cruise ships, bamboo rafts, grass rafts, and ancient fish cover

4. Play time: 2-3 hours

5. Ticket price: 55 yuan for tickets; 80 yuan for tickets + cruise; 100 yuan for tickets + bamboo raft; 120 yuan for tickets + straw row

Tengchong hot sea filled with sulfur smell

Get out of the Beihai Wetland, and then go to Atami. The drive takes about half an hour. Generally, the chartered driver will suggest to finish the tour together.

Atami is not the sea, but a geothermal hot spring area. From the moment you get off the bus, you will be greeted with a strong sulfur smell. Pass through a row of small shops at the entrance of the scenic spot, and along the road are chasing aunts who let you buy eggs. The eggs are tied into a string with straw, and a string costs 10 yuan. There is a sense of ritual, so I started the journey of a bunch of eggs through mountains and rivers.

A stream that is warm in all seasons passes through the entire valley, forming large and small springs and pools. Take the shuttle bus from the ticket office and go deep into the valley, only to see white smoke rising from the mountain, which is a bit fairy gas.

Approaching the direction of the smoke, the temperature of the air gradually rises, and beads of sweat begin to appear on the forehead. The sulfur smell is strong and salty. The exposed rocks are covered with white calcification. From time to time, there are small holes in the ground for ventilation. , Columns of smoke floated up from the hole, I was a little timid, and I didn't dare to stay long when I saw the signs in the explosion zone.

It is amazing to say that there are steaming springs in this valley, as well as trickling cold streams and waterfalls. Why the two do not affect each other is also a wonder of nature.

Continue to trek up through the Xianren Pavilion, pass through the hot spring area, pass through several hot spring pools, and climb dozens of steps before arriving at Atami's iconic attraction "Big Rolling Pot".

There are three water spray holes at the bottom of the big boiling pot, which spray out 96-degree hot water, like boiling water in a big pot. Even the ground here is hot. If you want to sit on the steps and rest for a while, you will be shocked by the temperature on the ground. retreat.

There are signs everywhere in the scenic area saying "It is forbidden to boil eggs in the spring". After the Long March, my bunch of eggs finally found their home in the boiled egg experience area next to the big boiling pot. They said they were boiled, but they should be steamed at high temperature Throw the egg skewers into the cage for about 10 minutes, the eggs are already fully cooked, and the dream of the beautiful hot spring eggs has long been shattered.

I still want to leave a commemoration of the journey of this bunch of eggs.

As one of the three major geothermal areas in China, Rehai Scenic Area is the place with the highest concentration of geothermal heat in Tengchong. This magical landscape is still worth a visit, but whether you want to soak in hot springs here is different from person to person.

Atlantis Scenic Spot Raiders

1. The original price of the ticket is 60 yuan, half price within the year. If you have no physical strength, it is recommended to buy a scenic spot ticket + battery ticket combination. It takes at least 1.5 kilometers to walk from the ticket office to the essence of the scenic spot. The battery car mainly saves this distance.

2. It takes about 1.5 kilometers to climb from the Lion's Head Waterfall to the Hot Sea Big Rolling Pot, and it takes more than half an hour to climb while walking.

3. In Atami, you can swim with the volcano, or arrange it with the Beihai Wetland. One day is enough. In the evening, it is recommended to eat a Chaowei copper ladle beef in the urban area!

4. There is a place to experience foot bathing next to the hot sea hot pot. If you want to soak in hot springs, it is recommended to buy tickets for scenic spots + hot springs + battery cars from the hotel, and also bring a swimsuit (you can also buy hot springs, but the style is emmm )

It's human food

【Cun Da Ma Thin Bean Flour】

The breakfast of the local people usually starts with a bowl of hot dilute soybean powder, "cook it on the same day and eat it on the same day", there is no such thing after the morning, and Aunt Cun is no exception. A serving of large flakes of soy flour is served as a snack. Aunt Cun called us to eat thin bean noodles for breakfast the next day, and we nodded frequently.

The big thin slices are pork slices cut as thin as cicada wings, light and refreshing, seasoned with chili powder, and mixed with jelly-like bean powder in one bite, it is the taste that you want to eat one bite after another.

【Niu Niu's Copper Ladle Beef】

In the ancient town of Heshun, there is a beef hot pot recommended by the lady of the hotel. There is thickly boiled beef bone soup in a large copper pot, which is full of beef offal, beef, and cowhide. I don’t remember how many catties I ordered. I remember that there is always beef in the copper ladle. The beef and beef offal are particularly flavorful. It is not like Chaoshan beef hot pot, which melts in the mouth. Compared with it, it is a bit tougher, but it is full of flavor.

【Lin Li Family Restaurant】

An ordinary family restaurant with an open living room and a small two-story building. The owner sets up a dining table in his own yard, which is the usual place for locals to eat. The home-cooked menu was handwritten on the small blackboard, and there were more than a dozen kinds of unnamed fungi in the refrigerator beside it. The simple proprietress was busy in the kitchen, calling the boss to order for us. Two people ordered four dishes. Very satisfying to eat.

I have forgotten what the season's bacteria are, the entrance is fresh and soft, and the aroma of the mushrooms bursts out of the fire.

Stir-fried Tengchong small melon, small melon is a unique vegetable in Tengchong. It looks like a pepper but not spicy, and it tastes delicious.

In restaurants in Tengchong, you can see this special dish of Dajiujia almost everywhere. Dajiujia is actually fried bait (fried noodle slices). It was a family where the emperor of the Ming Dynasty fled to Tengchong and ate fried bait. After a few blocks, the name Dajiujia was launched due to feelings.

When I come here, I always have to try it. Because of the addition of tomatoes, eggs, pickles, and bacon, the sour, sweet, salty, and spicy flavors are combined, which is quite fresh, but the bait is also very full, almost as a staple food.

【Chaowei Copper Ladle Beef Restaurant】

After eating a meal of Tongpiao beef in the ancient town, I couldn’t forget it, and was recommended by a friend to go to a more authentic local Tongpiao beef restaurant. Sure enough, Chaowei’s beef soup is richer and the beef is bigger. If you can only eat one , then I unconditionally recommend Chaowei!

Each table will come up with a large plate of seasonings.

The perfect combination of spicy oil and beef soup, tumbling on the charcoal stove, the pleasure of eating meat in the cool weather makes people feel happy.

[Barbecue stalls in Heshun Ancient Town]

After dark, the barbecue stalls set up in the ancient town always gather people from all over the world. What they eat is not the amazing delicacy, but the rare feeling of getting together with friends.

The elder sister of the homestay told us that marinated barbecue must be eaten, because that is the characteristic of Yunnan-style barbecue. Marinated chicken wings, chicken feet, grilled fish, and wrapped tofu are must-orders.

The umami of the wrapped tofu is attractive, and the spiciness is particularly challenging for Cantonese people. Even so, I finished it while "sizzling" while drinking beer.

【Sister Hua's private kitchen】

Sister Hua’s private kitchen, which needs to be reserved one day in advance, is an online celebrity restaurant in Tengchong Ancient Town. The fee is only 158 yuan per person. The dishes are provided according to seasonal ingredients. There are about 10 dishes. The dishes are exquisite and delicious, and the environment is also very good. , There are a lot of self-brewed wine in Sister Hua's shop, you can taste it if you are interested, and many people buy it back by pot.

Sister Hua is an authentic and gentle person. The restaurant is in her nearly 300-year-old house. It is a typical courtyard structure. There are wine jars on both sides of the entrance. The stone slabs and wooden furniture in the old house are full of age.

During the meal that Sister Hua eats, a series of private dishes are served on the table one after another, from pre-meal fruits, snacks, to big fish and meat, to after-dinner desserts, when you finish one dish, the next one will be delivered in time Come up, this delicacy and thoughtfulness are also memorable.

Tea gardens and thatched cottages in the distant mountains

In the quiet Tengchong, there is a green tea garden hidden in the deep mountains. Due to the inconvenient transportation, most of them are travelers who come by car. The experience is very comfortable! The owner of the tea garden built a thatched hut and a campsite here. It is the most comfortable place to taste delicious food and a cup of hot tea in the quiet sea of ​​tea.

Walking all the way into the tea garden from the small road in the small village, the undulating mountains are already very eye-catching. When you turn to the end, you can see the wooden house covered with thatch. For a moment, it is like in the Japanese countryside. Going up the thatched house is hidden in the A glass restaurant in the forest.

The restaurant in the tea garden is 200 yuan for two people, and 68 yuan for more than three people. In fact, more people are more cost-effective, and there is no need to order. The dishes are based on seasonal ingredients. There are about eight or nine dishes. The hump beef pot is too much It's delicious, the beef taste is very strong, the dishes are large, and it's satisfying to eat.

The hump beef pot soup is rich, and the beef is stewed soft and delicious.

After a meal, you can drink freshly brewed tea for free in the tea tasting area. If you need to experience the whole process of roasting tea (including lighting a fire, grinding, and making tea), you need to pay extra. This depends on the time and personal choice. If you have enough time, you may wish to experience it Take a look at the ancient way of brewing tea.

The large tea garden outside the thatched house extends far away. When it’s sunny, it’s glowing green, and when it’s rainy, it’s a different mood. Walking into the tea garden path, you can feel it slowly and take pictures.

Tengchong Dadi Chahai Camping Base

Transportation: Self-driving, chartered cars, and taxis are all available

The four seasons are like this, and you can stay in peace

In Tengchong, we stayed in a boutique homestay "Anzhiruosu Mountain" that has been planted for a long time. It is located on an old street extending from the ancient town of Heshun to the foot of the mountain. It looks like a longing for life. !

This is a homestay built by Harvard architects, with a bright white zig-zag entrance cut into the traditional tile roof, and the slope extends up to a green landscape surrounded by forests. The whole is like a white hill growing upwards, with a full sense of design and extremely seductive.

The room is like living in a landscape painting. Each room has a poetic name and a different design, but there are large French windows overlooking the fields and the ancient town of Heshun not far away. The intelligent appliances in the room are very thoughtful in many details .

The B&B also arranges a dedicated butler, who can be picked up and dropped off at check-in and departure. Afternoon tea can be enjoyed in the public area full of space design, or at the landscape location on the roof. In the evening, two bowls of peach gum fungus were delivered, and breakfast can also be delivered to the room.

The hotel lobby is also a coffee shop. You can enjoy afternoon tea even if you don’t stay in the hotel. You can appreciate the master-level design, which is supported by pillars like tree trunks, and the sunlight shines through the gaps. The pure white picture is very gentle.

The lights and shadows in the morning and afternoon are fascinating, and the well-arranged design just gives space for the sunlight to project freely. The lights and shadows are so beautiful! At sunset, it is even more charming to watch the setting sun fall from the sky to the foot of the mountain. It is really a place for resting in a daze and wasting time.

Walking up the white stairs to the third floor of the B&B, sitting on the roof tiles and overlooking the fields and mountains in the distance, this moment is the most comfortable time.

There are several photo spots in the homestay, and it’s a big movie if you take it casually

①The "roof" road extending at the door (backlit in the morning, suitable for shooting in the afternoon)

②Outdoor white stairs leading to the third floor (special forest system)

③Public space on the third floor (you can sit on the roof, and the roof tiles have been exposed)

④ In the corridor of the room area in the morning, the mottled light and shadow are also very beautiful

 

[Homestay Name] Anzhiruosu Mountain Panorama Hot Spring Hotel

[B&B Address] No. 41, Shuidushang Second Community, Heshun Town

[Transportation method] It is about half an hour's drive from the airport. The butler can pick you up at the airport or the city. It takes about 20 minutes to walk to the center of the ancient town.

Baoshan, Xinzhai Coffee Farm

On the way from Tengchong to Dali, I stayed in Baoshan for one night, for the naive obsession with going to the coffee manor. The reason for calling it naive is that it was not the coffee production season at that time, and under the guise of "everyone is here", I still wanted to take a look, even though the traffic was not convenient, and I even spent a lot of money to take a taxi back to the city that night.

Baoshan is a small city. The coffee industry is the mainstay of most of the economy here. Lujiangba Xinzhai Village, which is more than an hour away from the city center, is known as "China's No. 1 Coffee Village" because of its vast coffee planting area. Xinzhai Village in Lujiangba has many coffee manors, coffee experience halls, mountains with large coffee trees, and coffee processing stations in the mountains... For coffee lovers, exploring the source is the most exciting something happened.

The most not to be missed is the Xinzhai Coffee Manor, a Beijing-based architect Hua Li built a space integrating mountains, water, art, and humanities with 760,000 bricks. It is not an excuse to call it a coffee museum. However, Xinzhai Coffee Manor was even selected as one of the top ten works of the year in ArchDaily's "China Architecture Awards 2020". Of course, this time it was also aimed at it.

Originally, I wanted to visit the Xinzhai coffee farm and then visit other nearby coffee farms, but I didn’t do enough homework, and I realized it was too late when I arrived.

Here is a reminder that the Xinzhai coffee manor is not in Xinzhai Village, but in Bawan, and most of the other scattered coffee manors are in Xinzhai Village. Bawan and Xinzhai Village are two different hills, about half a distance apart. more than an hour's drive.

In fact, as long as there is enough time and there is a car, it is no problem to run two hills a day. Unfortunately, it was already afternoon when we went, so we had to go down the mountain and go back to the city after visiting the Xinzhai Coffee Farm, leaving a regret.

The old site of Xinzhai Coffee Manor was a yard that had been abandoned for many years, and it was the office of the former township government. Under the architect's bold conception, it has been transformed into a retro and fashionable coffee manor. The manor consists of three parts: a cinema built in the 1980s, a two-story red brick coffee shop, and a three-story main building with storage and processing as its main functions.

In the dappled afternoon, wandering around the coffee manor, the tall arched corridors, the open and overlooked scenery, and the space with a sense of design, you can shoot blockbusters at any time.

There is also a small coffee museum hidden in the manor, which exhibits hundreds of objects related to coffee in Lujiangba, from coffee varieties to processing utensils, from watching and learning to hands-on, to understand how a coffee bean transforms into a cup The whole process of aroma and mellowness traces back to the history of folk coffee in the past decades of coffee planting in Lujiangba.

It seems worthwhile to take a look at the buildings in the manor and drink a cup of coffee, even though the journey is a bit far away.

A 250-year-old banyan tree is also the "treasure of the town yard" here.

Retro long windows adorn the gray brick walls, the facade of an abandoned movie theater.

From afternoon to evening, the light has gradually dissipated, and the nostalgia of the whole building has become stronger.

On the way from the urban area to the manor, there are rolling mountains in the distance.

A little TIPS about visiting Xinzhai Coffee Manor

① Self-driving! You must drive by yourself, because public transportation is too inconvenient (don't ask me how I know)

②Xinzhai Coffee Manor is not a big place. It takes about an hour to finish shopping and filming, and there are no other places to go in the vicinity of old villages. If you want to visit more coffee manors, it is recommended to go there early and see Xinzhai. The coffee manor can drive to Xinzhai Village (about half an hour’s drive). There are many coffee manors in Xinzhai Village, and there are also good landscapes and good coffee to taste. Here are a few coffee manors that I originally wanted to visit: Bryan Coffee Experience Center, Chitten Culture Coffee Experience Hall, Beeton Coffee Manor.

③The road up the mountain by car is more difficult, with many curves, it is recommended to have an experienced driver to drive.

④If you have more time, you can go to Xinzhai Village in the morning, go to Xinzhai Coffee Manor in the afternoon, and stay at the B&B in the manor for one night, the experience will be better.

Dali, some thoughts on revisiting

When I came to Dali for the first time, I was still a student. Compared with the bustling ancient city of Lijiang, the ancient city of Dali is like a clear stream, with wide stone streets, lazy afternoons, and a slow-paced lifestyle...I have always maintained my love for Dali. That longing.

Coming back after seven or eight years, it seems that I have become a little unfamiliar. Restaurants and shops have become denser, vehicles and scooters are flooding the roads, and markets and art spaces are dazzling. Perhaps because of the holidays, the ancient city is crowded with people, especially after nightfall, the noise and brightly lit shop signs make people feel a little bit enthusiastic.

The ancient city of Dali finally complied with the trend of commercialization. Life in the ancient city is no different from that in the city. There are milk tea bars lined up on the street, and the business of small shops is booming. Merchants make money here, and tourists here After having a good time, those leisurely and priceless time in the past gradually became less and less.

It’s not that commercialization is not good. After all, we are just passing through for a short time, not the hosts who have lived in Dali for a long time. For the local people, the living standard has improved and the accelerated economic development is indeed beneficial. The collision of old and new cultures may have new sparks Appear, but for passers-by, we may need more time to adapt.

If you are looking forward to the carefree and slow life of Dali, yearning for this ideal country, it is recommended to avoid holidays, come in the off-season, take a walk on the Erhai Lake, walk through the mottled years of the ancient city, and look at the deep starry sky of Dali. This trip was in vain.

Dali is still the same Dali , but in a different way.

The lifestyle of the new Dali people is best reflected in various bazaars. Countless bazaars such as the Bed Sheet Factory Art District, Foreigner Street Market, Four Seasons Market, etc. take turns every week, and the most lively ones should be the foreigners. Street market, because there are many mobile stalls, both sides of Foreigner Street are full of small commodities. If you want to pursue a market with a sense of art, Four Seasons Market or Bed Sheet Factory will be more suitable.

When driving around the ancient city on a small motorcycle, I passed this strange building and took a closer look. It turned out to be the Yang Liping Grand Theatre.

We didn’t take the classic line around the Erhai Lake, but just drove a small motorcycle to the Erhai Lake to have a look. Before we left, we wanted to live in the seaside B&B in Shuanglang, but we were persuaded by the doubled holiday price. The holiday travel experience is always discounted. , in Dali, Yunnan, it can be regarded as a severe experience.

Putting aside the cloak of holidays, Dali on weekdays should still be that dream country, and I really hope so. After all, we also encountered a double rainbow!

In the ancient city of Dali, I recommend a delicious special Dai hand-picked rice [Gu-style stewed private kitchen]

The food is not afraid of deep alleys. The store is not big but often crowded. Gu’s pilaf rice is full of color, fragrance, and taste. The chicken hamstrings are so delicious and chewy, full marks!

Address: No. 383 Qingshiqiao, the lower section of Yu'er Road, Dali (the door is relatively small, not easy to find)

In Dali, we also went to a thousand-year-old village.

Fengyangyi Village has the only remaining section of the Yunnan-Tibet Tea-Horse Road in Dali. From the beginning of the village to the end of the village, nearly a kilometer of smooth stone road polished by horseshoes and human feet is preserved. Occasionally, some villagers pull a few horses along the There is a horse riding trip at the head of the village, but walking is a better way.

On both sides of the stone road are dilapidated old houses, the walls have faded and fallen off, and the red bricks are exposed. Although it is very clean, it is full of loneliness and vicissitudes, as if it has been completely forgotten.

I met a group of old ladies with different expressions, weaving straw hats under the dilapidated eaves, chatting left and right, or burying their heads in work, or closing their eyes to rest. This is the most beautiful scene in my opinion.

The main road of Fengyangyi Village is actually not long. Those dilapidated stone-built houses may be repaired or rebuilt someday. I hope the stories and wind and rain of the past can be left behind for a long time.

Have a warm bowl of vegetarian rice

I can't help but talk about the thunder I stepped on in Dali.

Anyone who reads Dali TO DO LIST will almost always see one item: Go to Jizhao Temple for a vegetarian meal.

So with the good idea of ​​being able to feel the tranquil temple, we went to this niche attraction "Jizhao Temple", thinking that we would arrive at noon just to have a fast meal, and we didn't rush too early. It took about half an hour to climb the steep mountain road all the way, and I was panting. It was 12:30 when I arrived at the gate of Jizhao Nunnery, but I was dumbfounded by the flow of people in Jizhao Nunnery. This so-called niche attraction has become a check-in-style flowing water attraction.

From the entrance to the inner courtyard, every corner is full of people, and there is a subtle feeling of a large dining hall. When we asked the people in the temple where we could get food, we were told that there was no lunch and we had to wait until dinner time. Sometimes, the mood is like a thunderbolt. The staff also told us that many people came up to line up early in the morning, and some came up to buy for a group of people first, so they would be sold out very early. We only had helplessness written on our faces when we heard that we were still hungry here. I didn't even bother to take a good look at the garden.

The state of eating vegetarian meals I want is not like this, and the Jizhao Temple in my imagination is not such a deliberate visit for a vegetarian meal, and I leave the temple immediately.

Fortunately, when the very hungry rice cooker went down the mountain with an irritable mood, he saw the Gantong Temple halfway up the mountain with a sign for vegetarian food. It was past 1 o'clock at noon. , the back door of the sparsely populated Gantong Temple is a simple fasting room, with scattered guests sitting at a few tables, I think, these may be the guests who came down from Jizhao Temple.

Although there are not many dishes left, there are also my favorite fried tofu, fried cabbage, and potato chips. When I saw the words pasted in the vegetarian room, I thought "goodness, Amitabha Buddha". Fortunately, I met Gantong Temple. This trip for vegetarian meals perfectly made up for the bad mood in Jizhao Temple.

Appreciate slowly in Gantong Temple, in fact, it has a different sense of beauty. It is not a beauty that has been carefully arranged, but a beauty that is a bit vicissitudes, a bit shabby, but full of a sense of life. Pear trees and persimmon trees are full of fruit, dusty spider webs hang from the tiles, and succulents are piled on the ground.

Here are some suggestions for friends who want to go to Jizhao Temple:

1. Avoid the peak tourist season during holidays, and avoid the first and fifteenth day of each month (the first and fifteenth day are free, and there will be more people)

2. Go up the mountain a little earlier. It takes half an hour to walk from the Gantong cableway to Jizhao Temple. It is best to arrive before 11 o'clock to ensure a bowl of hot rice.

3. If you really haven’t eaten in Jizhao Temple, go to Gantong Temple. The vegetarian food in Gantong Temple can also warm your stomach.

Three days in Xizhou, about rice fields and coffee

In fact, Xizhou Town is no longer considered a niche place, and there are not a few tourists who come here during holidays.

In my opinion, Xizhou is more emotional than Dali. Maybe it’s the houses of the Bai people hidden deep in the ancient city, maybe the old walls and alleys that can’t find the end, maybe it’s a happy rice field. When entering the ancient town of Xizhou, there is a richer cultural atmosphere.

As an important town and transit station on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, Xizhou has become the center of caravan business travel trade, rest, rest and supply in the past. With a history of more than 1,000 years, there are flying eaves and walls, ancient houses, and small bluestone bridges, full of aura. Xizhou Ancient Town still uses its streets and alleys to tell these vivid stories.

Xizhou’s landmark, the Round Corner Building, is also the most popular spot for taking pictures of Internet celebrities. During holidays, this intersection is bustling with people. Only when the peak hours are staggered will there be fewer people.

Sifang Street is Xizhou's "Little Hong Kong". On the tall "Timing Square", the "Four Masters", "Eight Middle Schools" and "Twelve Small Houses" of the Xizhou Merchant Gang silently recounted the past glory. The entrance of the Yan Family Courtyard is also on the square, and now it has become a food center, surrounded by fragrant Xizhou Baba, milky roasted milk fans, steaming casserole rice noodles... there are many special delicacies hidden.

A paddy field next to the ancient town is the most attractive scene in Xizhou today. A Bai nationality dwelling museum "Xilin Garden" is next to the paddy field. The orange wall matches the paddy field. It has become a check-in point for many people. It is also recommended It's better to come at the wrong peak.

There is a whole row of coffee shops beside the rice fields. It is indeed a leisurely enjoyment to drink a cup of coffee facing the fields on a sunny morning or afternoon.

The rice fields are golden in September-October.

The ancient town of Xizhou gradually gained the label of "Internet celebrity", perhaps because of the rice fields, perhaps because of more and more coffee shops, gourmet shops, and handmade shops. Looking back now, when walking in the ancient town, I also Once lost in the busyness of looking for photo spots, I ignored the soul of Dali represented by Xizhou, its thousands of years of history, its prosperous old dreams, its cultural and architectural heritage... I only looked up these one by one after I came back The inner soul, lamented by the years, is really ashamed.

During the few days in Dali, I lived in a homestay in Shacun, next to the ancient town of Xizhou. It was a little far away from the ancient town, but it was peaceful.

The room has a large terrace facing the landscape paintings in the distance. When I woke up in the morning, I was amazed by the poetry.

The B&B is called Qingsha Minju. Many details in the room were designed by the landlord. Those who like quietness and quality are highly recommended to live here.

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Recommend two coffee shops in Xizhou

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1. Pessoa Pastoral Café

Facing a Xizhou rice field, the door is decorated with flowers and plants. The Pessoa Cafe is just beside the ancient town of Xizhou. It is also a well-known cafe in Dali. It has good products and a good environment, especially the one sitting in front of the door. The chair looks at the field scenery in front of you, which is suitable for emptying your mind.

"Pessoa" is a Portuguese writer, perhaps yearning for the combination of sunshine and life, so the manager gave such a name. The coffee is roasted by the owner himself, and the coffee aroma brought by the fresh medium-light roasted beans can make people feel extremely happy.

The freshly roasted milk tea has no additives, and it has a unique aroma after being stirred with cinnamon, which is my favorite taste.

The enamel cup for hand-brewed coffee is a customized illustration made in cooperation with the designer. It is the entrance of this cafe. It is so beautiful that I bought one to take home.

2. Tian Coffee

The simplicity of Tian Coffee makes people pass by without recognizing that it is a coffee shop.

The bar is built with blue tiles, the old-fashioned wooden boards have been polished smooth, simple coffee utensils, Kinu hand grinder, Kalita copper pot and filter cup. The Japanese-style handmade pottery cups on the wall are displayed in one word, which shows the owner's unique hobby for utensils.

The boss is roasting beans upstairs, and he has time to make coffee after a while. He uses a more Japanese-style brewing method, focusing as if there is only coffee and himself at that moment, a clean and thorough pot of iron pickup, just like its name " "Clear Envelope" is the feeling of Yunnan.

Yes, this is a shop specializing in homemade baked hand pours, and it is worth wasting some time to drink a pot of hand poured.

Those magical markets in Kunming

On the last day of the return trip from Kunming, I didn’t visit too many attractions. The two markets I visited during the day and at night were the most impressive. They are blessed places that people who like food must not miss. Now that I think about it, I just wish I didn’t stay longer to feel it.

[Nanqiang Streets and Alleys] - "The night on Nanqiang Street is a bowl of human fireworks that you can follow one's inclinations."

Nanqiang Street and Alley is the most popular street in Kunming, which is a must-see for night tours. I only have the most straightforward description of it, "a market with a lot of people but not at all annoying".

Special snacks from Kunming, Yunnan, the whole country and even the world are gathered here. The bustling food street is mixed with the sound of ordering and selling, the sound of food, and the sound of clinking glasses... moving slowly among the crowd, looking into the brain, watching With a variety of gourmet menus, the fireworks here are too capricious, and everyone who comes here will unconsciously blend into the bustle.

Focusing on eating and packing food, I put away my camera. I feel guilty for not taking too many photos of food. I hope you can feel my sincerity for food with your heart~~

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[Daguan Zhuanxin Farmer's Market] - "The soul of old Kunming that is simple but radiant, simple but comforting"

At the Zhuanxin Farmer’s Market in Kunming, local friends will go by themselves or bring friends from other places; 50 yuan is not enough, and 100 yuan may not be enough, because there are so many delicious foods! It’s not just as simple as the vegetable and fish market, it’s all-encompassing, all kinds of things you’ve seen for the first time in your life, and all kinds of delicacies that refresh your taste buds. All in all, Zhuanxin Market has a mysterious beauty.

Even Chen Xiaoqing, the director of "A Bite of China", was full of praise for it, and directly expressed Amway in the program. Zhuanxin Market is a good place to catch all the delicacies of Yunnan in a short time. No matter how tight the time is, you have to go to Zhuanxin Market first when you come to Kunming, so that you can call it an authentic foodie.

Fruits, vegetables, cooked food, meat, seafood, fungi, flowers, spices... are neatly arranged and pleasing to the eye.

I am really envious of Kunming people for being able to eat a full round while shopping for vegetables. If this is the case, I am willing to come to buy vegetables every day!

There are so many types of vegetables, many of which can't be named, but they look surprisingly healing.

The spicy bean curd rice noodles are simply delicious in the world. The delicate bean curd that slides through the mouth and the spicy rice noodles are really delicious! The front of the store is crowded, full of diners who come to order or take away.

Zhuanxin Farmer’s Market has endless cries and endless food, allowing you to feel the most down-to-earth temperature in a city. Even if it is crowded and difficult to move, you can immerse yourself in it without feeling bored at all.

A vegetable street (gai) is full of the gentle smell of fireworks in the old Kunming. The seasons change and the seasons change. The stories here never stop. This real and ordinary appearance is the most original taste of life.

Goodbye

Let's travel again until the next good season.

I have seen mountains, rivers, lakes and seas, and walked through spring, summer, autumn and winter,

I found that every day, every moment, there are life in different poses and with different expressions,

Thousands of people are moving forward on different trajectories of life,

What reason do we have not to work harder for ourselves?

——To the ordinary and real us