Beijing weather: sunny

With whom: friends

Accommodation: Weiming Nanluoguxiang Store

This is the third day.

Xisi with archway

Get off at the Xisi Station of the subway. The place Xisi has been famous for a long time, how famous is it? It is as famous as Caishikou. Xisi got its name from the wooden archways in the east, west, north, south, and north of the original crossroads. In 1954, it was demolished due to road construction, and the place name was changed to Xisi. West Fourth Crossroads was the place where prisoners were executed in the Ming Dynasty. How is it different from Caishikou? One was beheaded, and the other was Ling Chi. Liu Jin, Yu Qian, and Yuan Chonghuan all died here. Now a new archway has been built, at the Northeast subway station at the intersection. In the past, to the north of the intersection was a street for electronic components. I bought accessories here when I was in college in 2000, but now it is almost dismantled.
In my memory, the north side of the intersection is Xinhua Bookstore and Shengli Cinema, and the south side is Xisi Snack Alley and Baozi Shop. Now there are few people going to the bookstore, the victory is gone, and the snack alley and bun shop are gone. It is said that a new Xisi Baozi shop opened on Xishiku Street. It was opened by a southern boss who hired a few out-of-towners. Not only is the price expensive but the business hours are short and the purchase is limited. As soon as WeChat forwarded it, there was a queue every day, learning the millet model. Have a business mind.

Xisi Xinhua Bookstore

Exiting the subway intersection, the northwest corner is the Xinhua Bookstore. I remember that I bought the first model car in my life here. Today, when physical bookstores are constantly being eaten away by the Internet, what does this bookstore have to say. Because this bookstore itself is a cultural relic! ! At the northeast and northwest corners of the crossroads, there is a red Qing Dynasty-style ancient two-story corner building, which was built in the 20th year of Guangxu in the Qing Dynasty (1894). The tenth day of the tenth month of the lunar calendar this year is the 60th birthday of the Empress Dowager Cixi, and the celebration will be held in the Summer Palace. On the way from the Forbidden City to the Summer Palace, West Fourth is a must. The corner building is built here, one is to embellish the streetscape, and the other is to rest on the way for Empress Dowager Cixi. I went there once at the beginning of the year, and there are also children's books and comics that I read when I was a child, but they are all new editions and not old ones.

Come to Guangji Temple for Marriage

Continuing to the west is Guangji Temple. Guangji Temple was first built in the late Song Dynasty, named Xiliu Village Temple. It was rebuilt in the early years of Mingshun, and Emperor Xianzong issued an edict to name it "Hongci Guangji Temple" in the second year of Chenghua (1466). The temple was destroyed by fire in 1931 and rebuilt in 1935. The building maintains the pattern of the Ming Dynasty and is divided into three roads. There are many precious cultural relics in the temple, such as the statues of the third Buddha of the Ming Dynasty and the eighteen arhats, the white marble platform built in the Kangxi period, and the bronze tripod in the Qianlong period. It is also the site of the Chinese Buddhist Association.
Male Yong and female Hongluo, pray for marriage in Guangji Temple, this marriage is said to be particularly effective, the majority of single dogs must come here to worship. A female colleague came here to ask for it before, and I don't know if it's done now.

Only know Baita Temple but not Miaoying Temple

Miaoying Temple, commonly known as Baita Temple, is a monastery of the Gelug Sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The temple was first built in the Yuan Dynasty and was originally named "Dashengshou Wan'an Temple". The White Pagoda built in the Yuan Dynasty in the temple is the earliest and largest Lama pagoda in China. In Mr. Jin Yong's novel Yitian Tulong Ji, the six major sects were arrested by Zhao Min and taken to the place where most of them were detained. The Wan'an Temple where the extermination teacher jumped from the tower to commit suicide is the "Great Sage Wan'an Temple".

During the Liao Dynasty, a Buddhist pagoda was built in the area where Miaoying Temple was located to enshrine Buddhist relics, incense pagodas, Buddhist scriptures and other Buddhist relics, but it was later destroyed by war. In the eighth year from Yuan to Yuan (1271), Kublai Khan ordered to rebuild a Lama Pagoda on the basis of the Liao Pagoda site. Therefore, under the auspices of the Nepalese craftsman Anigo, who was an official in the Yuan Dynasty at that time, after eight years of design and construction, the White Pagoda was finally built in the 16th year of the Yuan Dynasty (1279), and the Buddhist relics were then welcomed into the Tibetan Pagoda. .
In 1279, Kublai Khan ordered the construction of a "Dashengshou Wan'an Temple" centered on the pagoda. In the twenty-eighth year of Zhizheng (1368), a huge thunderstorm burned down all the halls of the temple, and only the White Pagoda survived.

The temple was rebuilt in the Ming Dynasty, and it was named "Miaoying Temple" after it was completed. During the Ming, Qing and Republic of China, the temple was repaired many times. Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong both had rebuilt inscriptions written by imperial pens. In 1966, the lamas in the temple were dismissed, the gate and the bell and drum towers were demolished and converted into shopping malls, other places in the temple were also occupied by government agencies, and a large number of cultural relics were lost or damaged. It wasn't until 1997 that the Beijing municipal government put forward the slogan "open the mountain gate and reveal the white pagoda" before demolishing the shopping mall and rebuilding the mountain gate and the buildings in the temple. In 1998, Miaoying Temple finally reopened.

The real "name" of Baita Temple should be called Miaoying Temple, and there is also a legend that "the white pagoda has no shadow". why? Because under the sun or moonlight, the shadow of the tower can only be a part, and the surrounding area is narrow alleys, and the shadows are integrated into the surrounding bungalows, so there is a saying of "shadowless white pagoda, shadowless". The small alley on the right used to be the place with the best overall view of Paibai Pagoda, but now there is a place called Lian Coffee that also looks good.

Geological Museum and Happy Twist Theater Geological Auditorium

After visiting the White Tower, go back to the West Fourth intersection and then go south. There is a Geological Museum and a Geological Auditorium on the west side of the road. Among them, the Geological Auditorium presents happy twist dramas all the year round, and those who are interested can buy a ticket to watch the drama. Go all the way south to Shaguoju

Under the guise of Shaguoju, don't wait after noon

In the old Beijing city, there were quite famous eight residences in the Qing Dynasty, all of which were Fuxingju, Wanxingju, Tongxingju and Dongxingju outside the front door (these four are also called "Dashixing"), Wanfuju, Dashilan Guanghe Residence in the north half of Caishikou Hutong, Tonghe Residence in Xisi, and Shaguo Residence in Xidan. Among them, Shaguo Residence was founded in the sixth year of Qianlong in Qing Dynasty (1741 AD) and has a history of 274 years. Shaguo Residence was not well-known in Kyoto in its early years. Big. It was really famous during the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, when a "banner member Zhongtang" held a birthday banquet at home, and became famous for hosting a "Li Fan" (the eunuch was called "Li Fan" in old Beijing). There are 66 samples of white meat made from piglets in Zhangjiawan County, a small area with many people, and it only sells for half a day. There used to be a saying in old Beijing: Shaguoju, under the guise of not waiting after noon, refers to its prosperity.

large casserole at the door

I like the casserole white meat, grilled steamed buns, and Jiuzhuan large intestines the most. The casserole ingredients are a la carte, and one order is basically enough. I have eaten Huifengtang's Jiuzhuan large intestine, and I think it is also good, but I can't eat too much, it is boring!
After eating and drinking enough, set off for Zhengyang Bookstore.

There is a pagoda in the courtyard——Zhengyang Bookstore

Going north along the street, you will arrive at Zhengyang Bookstore when you see an ancient pagoda in a courtyard on the west side of the road. The tower in the courtyard is called Wansong Old Man Tower, which was built in the Yuan Dynasty to commemorate the old man Wansong. The Zhuanta Hutong where the bookstore is located is named after this tower.
In the courtyard, there are many old objects such as old door panels, old tables and chairs, old window lattices, door piers, city bricks, alley number plates, old maps, etc. The bookshelves in the room are densely packed with books about old Beijing, from Sijiu City to Changping Tongzhou has them. If you are tired, there is a teahouse where you can have a pot of tea and rest your feet.

Gothic Church of Shishiku

Going northeast from Zhengyang Bookstore, you will arrive at Xishiku Church. The history of the Catholic Church in Beijing can be traced back to the Yuan Dynasty. The Roman Catholic Franciscan Monk Govino from Europe built the first Catholic Church in Beijing in 1294. The Catholicism introduced to China in the Yuan Dynasty is also known as After the fall of the Yuan Dynasty in 1368, the Yeli Kewen Church also disappeared from China. Most of the churches it built were used for other purposes, and very few survived. In the 33rd year of Wanli, Matteo Ricci was allowed to build a Catholic church in Xuanwumen, which is commonly known as the South Church. Xuanwumen Catholic Church is also the first Catholic church to appear in Beijing after 300 years. There is still a tomb of Matteo Ricci in Beijing. It is in the small garden in the center of the Party School of the Beijing Municipal Party Committee. I saw it when I was in class.
The most famous ones in Beijing are the four cathedrals in the southeast, north and west: the south hall Beijing Xuanwumen Church, built in Baroque style in 1601 (the 29th year of Wanli in Ming Dynasty); Twelve years); the Beitang Xishiku Church of the Savior, built in Gothic style in 1693 (the 32nd year of Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty); the west hall of Xizhimen Our Lady of Saint Cloth Church, built in Italian style in 1723 (the first year of Qing Emperor Yongzheng). Opened in 1703, Xishiku Church has long served as the cathedral of the Catholic Beijing Diocese and is one of the largest and oldest churches in Beijing.

The church is not open all day, and there is a break at noon. Don't believe the opening time of public comments and the Internet, it is not allowed. There are nuns distributing brochures in the small square in front of the church. If you don’t like it, you don’t have to pick it up. Some people just throw it in the trash can after receiving it. I think it’s very rude. There are also people explaining the teachings inside, and it is good to sit on the seat and listen to it. There are Bibles under the seats, and the explainers will also distribute Bibles, but there are not many of them.
The picture below is the aunt who is giving a lecture, and most of the listeners are young people.

The multicolored glass is colorful when it shines on the face.

Turn left before going out of the church and you will arrive at Yanji Restaurant

Yanji Restaurant

A few days ago, I read the prose "One Person's Noodle Shop" written by Chen Xiaoqing, the director of "A Bite of China", which is full of memories, saying that he has eaten at Yanji restaurant thousands of times since 1982. Although I haven't been patronizing since 1982, I have been here for a long time. I have been here since I was in elementary school, and I am as old as my son is now. At that time, my father took my mother and I, and often went to the shop near the Xishiku Church, and the car was parked on the road in front of the church. After entering the store, pay for the ticket and get the noodles. The standard dish is a bowl of noodles for one person and a plate of spicy beef. My dad will have a bottle of beer if he is not driving. At that time, the second-floor terrace did not have the current color board room, but an open parasol. At that time, what I was most interested in was the vegetable delivery device between the first and second floors, and I always wanted to get in. Because there are many people and there is often no space in the house, especially in summer, the old men sit on the steps outside to eat, with a bowl of noodles and a plate of meat, and plastic cups covered with beer bottles.

I still remember going to college and skipping class with my classmates, taking 109 from Dongdaqiao to eat cold noodles here, and then going to Xidan to take the subway. My father is no longer here, and now I bring my wife and son to serve a bowl of cold noodles and a plate of spicy beef. The difference is that I don’t drink alcohol. This may be the inheritance of ordinary people’s lives.

There are two Yanji restaurants on Xi'anmen Street, one is near Fuyou Street, and the other is near Xishiku Street. They are very close and you can choose as you like. Their mutton kebabs used to be delicious, but the last time I went there, I felt that the level had dropped and was unstable. Spicy beef is a must, and cold noodles must be served with white vinegar and chili sauce. If you don’t put it, it will be soulless. Their main store is on Xisi North Street, and I often go to these three stores. The Xisi store is relatively large, with two floors, and no matter which restaurant is full in summer. If you are full, walk 800 meters east to Beihai Park. You can also choose to take a car. Many cars arrive at the door.

Beihai Park, the oldest royal garden

Beihai Park was built in the Liao Dynasty and has gone through Jin, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. It is one of the oldest, most complete, most comprehensive and representative royal gardens in China. It was opened as a park in 1925. It is the oldest and most complete royal garden preserved in China. The development of Beihai gardens began in the Liao Dynasty, and the Jin Dynasty built the magnificent Taining Palace in the 19th year of Dading (1179) based on the foundation of the Liao Dynasty. The Taining Palace followed the regulation of "one pool and three mountains" in the royal garden of our country, and moved the "Taihu Stone" from the Genyue Royal Garden in Bianjing, Northern Song Dynasty to Qionghua Island. In the fourth year of Zhiyuan (1267), Kublai Khan, the ancestor of the Yuan Dynasty, built Dadu with Qionghua Island in Taining Palace as the center. Qionghua Island and the lake where it is located were included in the imperial city and named Longevity Mountain and Taiye Pool. In the eighteenth year of Yongle (1420), the Ming Dynasty officially moved the capital to Beijing, and Longevity Hill and Taiye Pool became the royal garden to the west of the Forbidden City, called Xiyuan. In the Ming Dynasty, the water surface was opened up to the south, forming a pattern of three seas. The Qing Dynasty inherited the Xiyuan of the Ming Dynasty, and the Beihai was rebuilt on a large scale during the Qianlong period, which established the scale and pattern of the future.
In the Ming Dynasty, there was an Emperor Jiajing, the one who fought with Hai Rui. He didn’t go to court all year round, but just lived in Xiyuan, made alchemy and meditated, devoted himself to cultivating mystery, and sought longevity every day. There was a TV series called "Daming Dynasty 1566". Jiajing and Hai Rui, both of them are very good actors, you can take a look.
There are quite a lot to see in Beihai: Another White Pagoda in Beijing is in Qiongdao, Yongan Bridge and the lotus on the side, Tuancheng, the only double-sided Nine Dragon Wall, Xiaoxitian, Xitian Brahma, Wulong Pavilion, Meditation Fast and so on. The main scenic spots are distributed in Qiongdao and the North Shore. You can enter from the south gate for a simple way of playing, go to Qiongdao by boat to the North Shore, and go out of the North Gate to take the subway to go home. There is another kind that comes at dusk, Beihai closes at 9 pm, and passes through Beihai Park along the east coast, giving you another feeling.

Fangshan restaurant with a chef from the imperial dining room

Fangshan Restaurant is located in Beihai Park. It was founded in 1925. It is a famous palace restaurant in the capital. Fangshan Restaurant was formerly known as "Fangshan Tea House", mainly engaged in court cakes and snacks, and is most famous for minced meat pancakes, small steamed buns, and pea yellow. In 1956, it was changed into a restaurant, serving palace dishes, and it is famous both at home and abroad for the "Full Feast of Man and Han".
It turned out that I took a boat on the north side of Qionghua Island and entered from the east gate of Beihai. If you have a reservation to eat, you don’t need to buy tickets for Beihai. There are snack gift boxes at the entrance of the restaurant. Now I have moved to the north shore of Beihai. It opened in Beihai Park in 1925. It is a century-old shop. It was first opened by a group of chefs from the imperial kitchen, so it is called Fangshan. If you are interested, you can try it.

Richang Restaurant, a Cantonese-style restaurant lined up all year round

Beihai There is a Richang tea restaurant in the north gate. The claypot rice tastes good. You can try it if you are hungry, but it is always ranked.

Day 3 soul map

Summary on the third day: buy books at Xisi Xinhua Bookstore, seek marriage in Guangji Temple, live in Zhengyang Bookstore in casserole at Baita Temple, eat cold noodles at church, and eat in Beihai for digestion.